The. Answer. Book. Laundering Refrigeration. Cooking $3.00. Dishwashing

Transcription

1 The Answer Book Laundering Refrigeration Dishwashing Cooking $3.00

2 Table of Contents Laundering Pages 3-12 Dishwashing Pages Cooking Pages Refrigeration Pages Welcome to The Answer Book! A large number of consumers questions and problems regarding major appliances deal with the use of the appliance and related items, rather than a mechanical malfunction. This reference book is designed to help you solve these non-mechanical problems. Although we have tried to include the most commonly encountered situations, there will always be unusual or extraordinary situations. However, in most cases we believe you will find The Answer Book to be just that. The Consumer Information Team Maytag Appliances 403 West 4th Street North P.O. Box 39 Newton, Iowa Note: The photos used in the Laundering and Dishwashing sections are provided compliments of Procter and Gamble.

3 Laundering 3 Laundering Contents Washer Fabric Damage and Clothes Tearing Lint Poor Cleaning Residue/Poor Rinsing Spots and Stains Fabric Softener Stains Greasy/Oily Stains Brown or Reddish Stains Dye Transfer Unknown Stains Tangling Mineral Deposits in Washer (Lime, Rust) Wrinkling Washer Stops Dryer Clothes Take Too Long To Dry Staining on Dryer Tumbler Resources Resources available for consumers regarding washer and dryer usage, questions and problems include: Questions & Answers Tangling 700CG Effects of Water Temperature On Laundry Results 701CG Dryer Exhausting 702CG Linting 703CG Poor Cleaning 704CG Residue/Poor Rinsing 705CG Wrinkling 706CG Pilling 707CG Unknown Staining 708CG Long Drying 709CG Fabric Damage 710CG Energy Conservation Washers 711CG Energy Conservation Dryers 712CG Maytag Washers 600CM Maytag Water-Saver Washers 601CM Maytag Dryers 602CM Maytag Neptune Washer 604CM Unique Sounds of a Maytag Neptune Washer 605CM Other Resources Clothes Washer Buying Guide 803CG Clothes Dryer Buying Guide 212YG Water Temperature Chart 396YG Soil Removal Chart 397YG

4 4 Laundering Fabric Damage & Clothes Tearing 1. Age and normal wear. Inspect all clothing before placing in washer. Use a delicate or hand washable cycle with the item(s). Hand wash the item in a sink or wash tub. 2. Chemical damage. Contact with chlorine bleach, battery acid, acne medication, solutions used by hairdressers or household cleaners containing bleach, etc. can cause tears, holes or yellow discoloration. Edges around the holes will be very weak and tear easily. Use an ultraviolet light to aid in identifying damage. Damaged areas will appear blackened or dark under the light. Hold light about 24 inches from item. (Terry cloth is not suitable for testing.) Use the proper amount of chlorine bleach stated on the back of the bottle. Use a bleach dispenser if available or dilute one cup bleach in four cups water and add to the tub when agitation starts. Avoid wiping up bleach spills with laundry. Avoid contact of laundry items with skin medication containing benzoyl peroxide. After using the product, wash hands with soap and water and dry hands with paper towels. 4. Fraying. Occurs from abrasion during normal wear around the edges of towels, pillow cases and on collar tips and cuffs, etc. For example, the collar tip rubbing against the shirt while it is being worn. Do not overload. Clothes must circulate freely in the tub. Permanent press loads should be smaller than regular loads. Sort carefully. Do not wash and dry heavy, abrasive articles, such as towels, jeans, or sweatshirts with permanent press or delicate items. Avoid overdrying. This may cause abrasion of shirt collars and cuffs. Remove shirts from dryer as soon as they are dry. 5. Insects, mice or pets. Crickets, silverfish and moths may eat fabric, causing holes of varying size. Pets may use their claws to cause the damage. Look for insects on the clothing. Customers may need to use moth balls or an alternative storage area to protect clothing. 6. Poor construction. Look for seams which are not completely finished off or for any loose threads. Some garments are made of lower quality fabrics. Check second or outlet store purchases carefully for defects. 3. Failure to mend rips and tears before laundering. Any rips or tears need to be mended before washing or the laundering process may make them larger. 7. Snagging/tiny holes. Cotton/Polyester knits snag very easily because they are a series of loops. Sharp or rough objects can catch one or more loops causing a snag. This may occur in the wash tub if an item is washed with other items having zippers or hooks. Some snags may be manufacturing defects unnoticed at the time of purchase. However most snagging occurs during normal wear and use. Terry cloth has small loops of thread on the surface, so it snags easily during normal use by rough towel bars, laundry hampers, jewelry, hair brushes, etc. Avoid washing any rough objects with items which may snag. Close all zippers and fasten hooks and eyes. Do not overload. Match the water level to the size of the load. Check washer tub, agitator or door for rough spots, etc., with a nylon hose. Any rough spots will snag the nylons and identify a potential snag.

5 Laundering 35 Lint Lint is small fibers of fabric that have broken off during wear or laundering. It is easily brushed away from the fabric. Some lint will always be created by any washer and flushed down the drain. Excessive linting is usually due to reasons other than the washer design or mechanical malfunction. 1. Improper sorting. Washing lint-givers (terry cloth, towels) with lint-catchers (corduroy, velveteen, most manufactured fibers). Separate lint-givers from lint-catchers. 2. Incorrect amount of detergent. A full capful or scoopful of detergent in the washer provides the most benefit in holding lint and soil in suspension. The amount of detergent used is determined by: a. The size of the load; b. Degree of soil; c. Water hardness. Water Hardness Chart Rating Grains/Gallon Parts/Million Soft 0-3 grains 0-59 Average 4-9 grains Hard grains Very Hard 14G grains 180G To determine water hardness, use a Water Hardness Test Kit or contact the local water utility or county extension office. Detergent manufacturer s recommendations are for washing a normal load. More detergent should be used if: a. The size of the load is extra large; or b. The degree of soil is heavier than average ; or c. The water is harder than 10 grains per gallon. Similarly, less than the recommended amount of detergent may be used (1/2 capful or scoop) if: a. A small load is being washed; or b. The load is very lightly soiled; or c. A partial fill is selected; or d. The water is soft (0-5 grains). If a packaged water conditioner is needed, use the following recommendation. Top loading use 1/3 to 1/2 cup with detergent. Front loading use 2 tablespoons to 1/8 cup with detergent. 3. Overloading. Top-loading washers: Place dry, unfolded clothes loosely in the tub to the top row of holes for a maximum load. Front-loading washers: The tub can be loaded completely full, but not packed tightly. 4. Using a water-saver washer. Colored permanent press and knits may attract lint from water used in previous loads. Start with a fresh fill for these loads and use a REGU- LAR cycle if saving the wash water. Mistaken for Lint Residue: A white substance left on the clothes at the end of the wash cycle. It is NOT EASILY BRUSHED OFF and over time, colors may dull. See page 7 for more details. Pilling: Manufactured fibers such as polyester, acrylic, or blends of these fibers have a natural tendency to pill due to abrasion from normal wear. When a fiber breaks, it simply balls up on the fabric surface. This is characteristic of these fibers, and is not the fault of the washer or dryer. Lint can become enmeshed in the little balls of fiber making the pills appear more obvious. * Brand names are trademarks of respective manufacturers.

6 6 Laundering Poor Cleaning Poor cleaning is usually the cumulative effect of any or all of the situations listed below occurring over an extended period of time. Clothes often turn gray and dingy looking. 1. Not using hot enough water. The water heater should be set to deliver a minimum 120 F (49 C) hot water at the tap. (Water temperatures up to 140 F (60 C) provide better results.) Take into consideration how far the water has to travel from the water heater. If the capacity of the hot water heater is not large enough to provide adequate hot water, do not run the washer when there are other household demands for hot water. 2. Incorrect amount of detergent. See Lint page Using an inexpensive detergent in hard water. These products contain only sodium carbonate and will affect laundering results no matter what brand or model washer is used. Clothes may not get as clean and colored fabrics may lose or change color. A lint-like residue may be deposited on clothes from a reaction with hardness minerals. Use a detergent containing both aluminosilicates and sodium carbonate. This combination does a better job of softening the water. The ingredients are listed on the label. Install a water softener to eliminate hardness minerals from the water supply. Use the hottest water possible for the fabric. 3. Cold water washing. Oily soils are harder to remove in cold water. All detergents are ineffective in water 65 F or lower. A cold water wash (65-85 F) is recommended only for very lightly soiled or brightly colored garments. Use a liquid or pre-dissolved granular detergent. 4. Overloading. Clothes need to circulate freely. Top-loading washer: Load with dry, unfolded items up to the top row of holes. Front-loading washer: The tub can be loaded completely full, but not packed tightly. Load the washer with articles of different sizes to allow free circulation in the water. 6. No soaking or pre-treating. If an item is heavily soiled or stained, soak for 30 minutes or less. Pre-treating soiled areas prior to washing with hand soap, pretreat products such as Shout* or liquid detergent improves results. Enzyme based pre-treats are best for removing protein stains such as blood or grass. * Brand names are trademarks of respective manufacturers.

7 Laundering 37 Poor Rinsing/Residue The rinse cycle is designed to flush water through fabric removing soil, suds and detergent residue. The best indication of proper rinsing is the final result after washing and drying. If residue is noticed on clothes, it will appear as streaks and is more noticeable on dark colored loads. Residue is NOT EASILY BRUSHED OFF and is many times mistaken for linting or poor rinsing. Dryer drying usually removes residue from clothes. 1. Using an inexpensive detergent in hard water. These products contain only sodium carbonates and will affect laundering results no matter what brand or model of washer is used. A lint-like, white residue may be deposited on clothes from a reaction with hardness minerals, especially if the water is harder than 14 grains per gallon. Purchase a detergent with a combination of sodium carbonate and aluminosilicates to act as water softeners. The ingredients are listed on the label. 2. Incorrect amount of detergent. See Lint page Cold water washing. Water may be too cold to activate detergent ingredients. A minimum of 65 F is required for activating both liquid and granular detergent. Granular detergent may not dissolve completely in cold water. A liquid detergent is recommended for better dissolving in cold water. Pre-dissolve granular detergent in hot water before adding it to the wash tub. If cold water setting is below 65 F, allow about a 1/4 of the wash tub to fill with hot water and then switch back to cold water. 4. Overloading. Top loading washers Place dry, unfolded clothes loosely in the wash tub up to the top row of holes. Front load washers The tub can be loaded completely full of items, but not packed tightly. 5. Use of rinse-added fabric softener. A chemical reaction between rinse-added fabric softeners and detergent may create white deposits on clothes. Dilute rinse-added fabric softener with warm water in the fabric softener dispenser. Clean any spilled detergent from the dispenser before adding fabric softener. Change brands of fabric softener. Do not use fabric softener in every load. 6. Washer not draining fast enough. Check the pump-out time on a vertical washer: a. Select maximum water level and allow washer to fill. b. Manually advance the dial to the final spin on REGU- LAR or press Spin on touch models. c. Time how long it takes from the start of spin until you hear all of the water is out of the tub. The water should all drain out within 90 seconds. d. If there is water remaining in the tub, there may be a drain restriction such as a kinked drain hose.

8 8 Laundering Spots and Stains Fabric Softener Stains (Blue, Pink, Green, Yellow or Gray Stains) 1. Improper use of liquid fabric softener. These stains will vary in color depending on the color of the fabric softener. They may appear gray if they have attracted soil from the load. Concentrated liquid fabric softener must be diluted with water when used in the fabric softener dispenser. Do not pour undiluted fabric softener directly onto fabric. Lifting the lid of top loading washers and interrupting the first spin after the wash cycle will cause fabric softener to be dispensed improperly, which may cause staining. To Remove Fabric Softener Stain Dampen the stained area and rub with a bar of soap (Ivory or Dove). Then, relaunder the article in the hottest water possible. Greasy/Oily Stains Cause: 1. Dryer-added fabric softeners sheets. A greasy or oily looking stain on fabric may be the result of: Overloading the dryer. A washer load is a dryer load. Adding dryer-added sheets after the dryer has been running for a period of time with heat temperature selected. Lightweight synthetic garments such as nylon or polyester seem to have an affinity for stains from dryer-added softeners. If stains occur on these items frequently, use a rinse-added softener. These stains can attract soil and rust in subsequent washings and appear gray/black. To Remove Dampen the stained area and rub with a bar soap (Ivory or Dove). Then relaunder the item in the hottest water possible.

9 Laundering 39 Brown or Reddish Stains Cause: 1. Iron or manganese in the water supply. Avoid using chlorine bleach on rust stains. It will make them darker and more obvious. When iron is dissolved in the water, use granular detergent plus a non-precipitating water conditioner, such as Calgon or Spring Rain*. Better results may be obtained by dissolving detergent and water conditioner in the wash before adding the clothes. Be certain that all clothes are down into the water before starting washer. If the iron is suspended in the water (it will settle out), attach a rust filter to the faucet and inlet hoses or to the water line. If iron or manganese stains are a recurring problem, the customer may need a special filter or chemical feeder installed in the home to remove these minerals from the water supply. To remove: Launder with RoVer* Rust Remover Part No using the directions below: Top loading washers: a. Fill the washer with water (no detergent), selecting a temperature suitable for the fabric (hot or warm). b. Add 1/3 cup RoVer and let it dissolve by agitation. c. Add clothes and allow washer to complete the cycle. d. Follow up with an additional wash with detergent. Front loading washers: a. Place 2 tablespoons of RoVer in the detergent dispenser area. b. Place the items in the tub and close the door. c. Select a temperature suitable for the fabric (hot or warm). d. Start the washer. e. Follow up with an additional wash with detergent. Colored fabrics: a. Dissolve one teaspoon of RoVer in a cup of water. b. Place one drop of this solution on a hidden area of the item, making sure it penetrates the fabric. c. Let dry. d. If there is no change in color, RoVer should not damage the item. Follow the directions for the specific washer. Stubborn stains: These may be removed by soaking articles in a solution of 1/3 cup RoVer and five gallons of water. Do not use a galvanized tub for soaking as RoVer will damage galvanized iron. Dye Transfer Cause: 1. Color from one garment bleeds onto others in the load. Dye transfer may be impossible to remove. Use caution when placing wet or damp clothes in a clothes hamper or pile. Always sort brightly colored garments and wash separately. If the clothes are still wet, immediately spray with Spray & Wash* and relaunder. Use chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric. If not safe, use a commercial color remover according to package directions. * Brand names are trademarks of respective manufacturers.

10 10 Laundering Unknown Stains Many times it is difficult to exactly identify a stain. The stain may have occurred while the item was being worn or used. Or, the stain may have been transferred from other items in the wash load. The following patterns can offer some clues. 1. Location of the stains. Stains appearing predominantly on the front, neckline, seat, knees, cuffs, socks, etc. usually mean they occurred while the garment was being worn or used. For example, stains around the neckline and shoulders are often due to hair care products. The pattern indicates the staining occurred prior to laundering. 4. Pinched stains in the washer. These are often gray or black in color and appear as though the garment was caught or pinched. The garments may be getting caught between the tub and tub cover or under the base of the agitator. While it is unusual for this to happen, it is more likely to occur in older models and if the washer is being overloaded. 2. Number of garments stained. If only one or two items in a load were stained, this generally means the garment was stained before laundering. In the rare event a washer or dryer was to stain garments, the stain would appear throughout the load. A washer or dryer cannot select one item to stain while leaving other items unaffected. 3. Bunched stains. These are scattered throughout a small area as if the item was wadded or bunched up when it came in contact with a staining substance. They often have a tie-died appearance to them. Bunched stains occur when the item is lying in a pile on the floor, in a hamper, laundry basket or in the wash tub before laundering. Avoid placing wet or stained garments in a pile or in the laundry hamper. The dye can transfer to other pieces of garment. 5. Pinched stains in the dryer. If these stains appear after coming out of the dryer, they may be caused by a misaligned dryer tumbler. A garment may get caught between the dryer tumbler and the front or rear bulkhead. Pinch stains can be very difficult to remove. To remove pinch stains from the washer or dryer: a. Soak stain in cold water for 20 minutes. b. Pre-treat with pre-dissolved granular detergent, liquid detergent or a special pre-treat product. Let the item stand for 30 minutes. c. Launder in the hottest water possible for the fabric. Use chlorine bleach, if safe for the fabric. d. Do not dryer dry until the stain has been removed. e. If the stain persists, repeat the procedure. In some cases, the stain may only be lightened or may be impossible to remove. Tangling Since part of the mechanical action of a washer is to circulate clothes for good cleaning, some tangling can be expected. However, excessive tangling isn t normal. 1. Wrapping shirts and sheets around the agitator. Place the entire item in one portion of the wash tub. 2. Washing only one type of clothing (all shirts, sheets or all delicates). Load the washer with articles of different sizes to allow for free circulation in the washer. For example, wash no more than one or two sheets or similar large articles unless smaller articles are added to complete the load. 3. Not using a proper water fill. Match the amount of water to the volume of clothes. Not enough water or overloading can cause severe tangling. If excessive amounts of water are used for a load, there is a chance tangling may occur. 4. Not fastening belts, hooks and buttons. Fastening hooks and eyes and closing all belts and buttons will reduce the likelihood of tangling to occur. 5. Choosing the right cycle. In a front load washer, the permanent press cycle should be less prone to tangling.

11 Laundering 311 Hard Water Mineral Deposits 1. Lime or chalk like substance. This is caused by calcium build-up on the lint filter or tub. Cleaning a top load washer with RoVer* Rust Remover: a. Fill washer with hot water and 1/3 cup RoVer, Part No b. Agitate 1 minute, soak 15 minutes, followed with a regular wash. c. If the manual clean lint filter has deposits, soak in RoVer or a solution of vinegar & water. Cleaning a front load washer with RoVer Rust Remover: a. Place 2 tablespoons RoVer in the detergent dispenser and use a hot water wash. b. Set for Cotton/Sturdy fabrics and a Regular/Normal setting. Press Start. c. Follow with a regular wash. 2. Rust. Iron in the water causes a reddish or brown stain. Refer to the cleaning steps for lime. Washer Stops 1. Unbalanced loads. This will occur most likely in the spin cycle due to overloading or heavy garments ending up on one side of the wash tub. It is possible for too much water in the tub to trip the unbalanced switch when it goes into a spin because of the small volume of clothing. Check that the washer is level from front to back and side to side. When washing heavy items, distribute the load evenly after the tub has come to a complete stop. 2. Using the all-fabric delicate cycle. A delicate wash action is created by alternating between periods of agitation and soak. A washer pause may be the result of this special delicate cycle. 3. Normal washer pauses. These naturally occur between segments of the wash cycle (fill, agitate and spin). The washer is preparing to tumble in the opposite direction. 4. Lid not closed. Close the lid to start the washer. For safety reasons, no washer will spin unless the lid is closed. Select models will not agitate with the lid open. Wrinkling Dryer drying is essential to remove wrinkles from most permanent press and other no-iron garments. However, some garments may require ironing. 1. The washer. Avoid overloading. Permanent press loads should be smaller than regular loads. Use the EASY CARE/PERMANENT PRESS cycle, especially if washing clothes in hot water. This cycle automatically provides a cool-down rinse to minimize wrinkles. Avoid using the Max Extract spin option. By not selecting the Max Extract spin option, items are less likely to come out wrinkled. Avoid laundering heavy permanent press articles such as work clothes and heavy pants or jackets with lighter permanent press articles such as shirts and blouses. Proper use of fabric softener will help minimize wrinkles. 2. The dryer. Use the EASY CARE/PERMANENT PRESS setting to get the maximum cool down. Use the correct temperature and dryness setting. Avoid overdrying. Remove clothes from the dryer immediately when the tumble action stops. Do not dry more than a single wash load; do not combine loads for drying. If only one or two articles are being dried, add a few similar articles, even though they are dry, to insure proper tumbling. 3. Heat-set wrinkles. The item should be ironed to restore the smooth surface. Proper laundering will help maintain a wrinkle-free appearance. 4. Wrinkles in no-iron fibers like polyester, acrylic or nylon. These fibers still require some touch-up ironing for a smooth appearance. This is especially true if the fabric is woven rather than knit. 5 None of the above solutions resolve wrinkling. When wrinkling still occurs, the permanent press finish on the garments is not of good quality or wearing off and ironing is necessary.

12 12 Laundering Clothes Take Too Long To Dry How long a load takes to dry depends on many variables, such as size of load, garment thickness, fiber content, etc. In general, we estimate 6 bath towels (weighing approximately 5 pounds) will dry in a dryer in about minutes, including a brief cool-down. A 12 piece permanent press load with slacks, shirts, shorts, dress, etc., (weighing approximately 5 pounds) will dry in minutes including a cool-down. When the load comes out of a Neptune washer using a max extract spin option, dry times may be 5 to 10 minutes shorter than the above stated times. Keep in mind as the load size increases, so will the drying time. 1. Obstruction in exhaust ducting, hinged hood cover, extra long exhaust vent or use of flexible ducting. Check for extra lint or debris blocking the duct. The hinged hood cover should open freely with the amount of air being exhausted from the dryer. Plastic flexible duct should be replaced with rigid metal duct or flexible metal duct. 2. Overloading. A washer load is a dryer load 3. Failure to clean the lint filter. The lint filter should be cleaned after each use to promote shorter drying times and energy efficiency. 4. Mixing loads. Avoid drying heavy and lightweight clothes in the same load. When washing one item like a rug, place a few small items to balance the load. This will help spin more water out of the load. 5. Washer not spinning properly. This results in excess water remaining in the clothes. Check the pump-out time on a vertical washer: a. Select maximum water level and allow washer to fill. b. Manually advance the dial to the final spin on REGU- LAR or press Spin on touch models. c. Time how long it takes from the start of the spin until you hear all of the water is out of the tub. The water should all drain out within 90 seconds. d. If there is water remaining in the tub, there may be a drain restriction such as a kinked drain hose. 6. Wrong temperature or degree of dryness. Check the temperature selected for drying and how much moisture is left in the items. 7. Dryer may be in regular or extended cool-down period. Check the control dial for where the setting presently states. Staining in The Dryer Tumbler Cause: 1. A crayon, ink pen, felt tip marker or even excessive dye from new towels or blue jeans can cause staining of the dryer tumbler. It is important to remove excessive staining from the tumbler using one of the following cleaning agents so the dye is not transferred to other items. a. A spray cleaner such as Fantastik or Formula 409*. b. A laundry pre-treat product such as Spray n Wash or Shout*. The aerosol types often work better for this purpose. c. A mildly abrasive cleanser such as Soft Scrub or Bon Ami*. Be sure to rub lightly. Wipe with a damp cloth. Tumble a load of old rags or towels on the REGULAR cycle using either the REGULAR or DELICATE temperature for minutes. This will make sure any excess stain is removed. After completing these steps, it may be possible to still see the stain on the tumbler. However, as long as the above steps are followed, there should not be any transfer of the stain. * Brand names are trademarks of respective manufacturers.

13 Dishwashing 313 Dishwashing Contents Unremoved Food Soils Sand-Like Deposit in the Bottoms of Cups and Glasses or on Dishes Cloudy Glassware Hard Water Filming and Water Spotting Etching Poor Drying Discoloration of Dishes or the Dishwasher Interior Dishwasher Odor Suds or Foam in the Dishwasher Detergent Remains in the Dispenser Cup Unfamiliar Sounds/Noisy Operation Chipping of Dinnerware and Glassware Metal Marks on Dishes or Glassware Discoloration of Silverplate Stainless Steel Discoloration or Rusting Pitting of Metals Tarnishing (Sterling or Silverplate) Items Not to be Washed in the Dishwasher Resources Resources available for consumers regarding dishwasher usage, questions and problems include: Questions & Answers Etching 726CG Hard Water Filming 727CG Rust Staining 788CG Dishwasher Poor Cleaning 728CG Dishwasher Poor Drying 729CG Factors Affecting DW Results 730CG Maytag Dishwashers 626CM Energy Conservation DW 731CG Maytag Intellisense Dishwashers 627CM Other Resources Dishwasher Buying Guide 825CG

14 14 Dishwashing Unremoved Food Soils 1. Water temperature is too low. Water heating dishwashers require a minimum of 120 F inlet water and regular use of the heating options. Nonwater heating dishwashers need 140 F inlet water for optimum cleaning results. Run water from the hot water tap before starting the dishwasher. This clears the line of cold water and is especially helpful when using a short wash cycle. Avoid other activities needing hot water (such as laundry and showers) while running the dishwasher. For normal or longer cycles, place the prescribed amount of detergent in each of the cups. When choosing a light wash or shorter cycle, place the prescribed amount of detergent in the main wash cup only. 3. Improper loading. All items should be loaded so they are separated and facing the center. Large bowls or pans should not be placed over the center of the lower rack where they could block the wash action of the center spray tower. Larger items should not be placed so that they shield smaller items from the wash action. Bowls should not be nested together as water is then unable to reach all of the surfaces. Spoons and other silverware should be loaded with some handles up and some down to prevent nesting. Avoid loading items in a manner that would restrict the rotation of the spray arms. Avoid loading large objects in a position that would block the detergent dispenser from opening. 2. Inappropriate amount of dishwasher detergent for the degree of water hardness or the amount of food soil. The general recommendation is one teaspoon of detergent for each grain of water hardness (gpg), with a minimum of three teaspoons when water is soft. Refer to the following chart: Water Hardness Detergent Use Soft (0-3 grains) 3 tsp. Medium (4-9 grains) 4-9 tsp. Hard (10-13 grains) tsp. Very Hard (14G grains) (see page 16) To determine water hardness: a. Use a Water Hardness Test Kit (Maytag Part No ). b. Contact the local water utility or state university extension service. 4. Improper water fill. After filling, the water level should be about even with the heating element in the bottom of the dishwasher. If the water level is low: Check to be sure that there are not other hot water activities (such as laundering or showers) occurring at the same time the dishwasher is running. Check that the dishwasher is level from front to back and side to side. Check for an immobilized float. Check for low water pressure. 5. Use of old or caked dishwasher detergent. Detergent should be fresh and stored in a cool, dry place. Detergents should NOT be stored under the kitchen sink. Detergents should not be stored for extended periods of time prior to use.

15 Dishwashing 315 Sand-Like Deposit in the Bottoms of Cups and Glasses or on Dishes 1. Improper loading. Glasses should NOT be placed over the tines. The tines interfere with the water flow and can inhibit proper washing and rinsing. Large pots, pans, dishes and bowls should be carefully loaded so as not to cover the center spray tower. Flatware or other items should not dangle down through the rack where interference with the spray arm rotation could occur. 4. Use of granular dishwasher detergent which has been stored inappropriately or for too long. Detergent should be fresh. Detergent should be stored in a cool, dry place. It should not be stored under the kitchen sink. (Storage in a damp environment can deactivate the cleaning ingredients in the detergent.) Name brand dishwasher detergent should be used. Poor quality detergents may not dissolve adequately. 2. The shape of some items. Narrow openings such as those found on baby bottles and vases inhibit adequate wash and rinse action. If changing the position of the item does not solve the problem, the item should be washed by hand. 3. Water temperature is too low. For optimum results, water heating dishwashers require a minimum of 120 F inlet water and regular use of the heating options. Non-water heating dishwashers need 140 F inlet water for optimum results. Run the hot water before starting the dishwasher in order to clear the line of cold water. 5. Inappropriate amount of dishwasher detergent for the degree of water hardness. Refer to the chart on page Low water level in the dishwasher. Avoid other hot water usage activities while using the dishwasher. Check for an immobilized float. Check for low water pressure. Be sure the dishwasher is level. 7. Mechanical. Filter is cracked or dislodged. Lower spray arm is split or rotating too rapidly or too slowly.

16 16 Dishwashing Cloudy Glassware To identify the cause of the cloudiness: Soak the glassware in undiluted white vinegar for approximately 5 minutes, rinse and dry. If the film is removed, it is due to hard water filming. If it is not removed, the glassware is etched. Hard Water Filming and Water Spotting 1. Not using enough dishwasher detergent for the degree of water hardness. Hard water minerals coat the surface of the glassware, creating a film. The amount of detergent should be increased according to the degree of water hardness (one teaspoon per grain). Refer to the chart on page 14. For water hardness over 12 grains, add additional detergent (1 teaspoon for each grain over 12) at the beginning of the main wash portion of the cycle. (Open the door, add detergent to bottom of the tub, close the door). The dishwasher will continue through the cycle. When water has over 15 gpg of hardness, it is very difficult to achieve acceptable dishwashing results. Extremely hard water can make it virtually impossible to achieve acceptable results and a mechanical water softener is recommended. Packaged water softeners such as Calgon* or Spring Rain* are not recommended for use in an automatic dishwasher as they create excessive suds. 2. Water temperature is too low. The water heater should be set at a higher setting or the water heating options on the dishwasher should be routinely used. Run the hot water before starting the dishwasher in order to clear the line of cold water, especially when using a shorter wash cycle. 3. Not using a rinse aid such as Jet Dry* or Cascade Rinse Aid*. A rinse aid improves the sheeting action of the water, allowing it to slide off of the dishes more easily. The result is less water spotting. 4. Water spotting not due to hard water. When water temperature is too high, flash drying may result. This is a situation where drying takes place before the water droplets can sheet off. Lower the water temperature setting slightly. To remove hard water filming, try one of the following: a. Wash glassware in the dishwasher using Glass Magic* according to package directions. If filming is severe, repeated washing may be required. b. Soak items in undiluted vinegar. * Brand names are trademarks of respective manufacturers.

17 Dishwashing 317 Etching This is a permanent pitting or eroding of the glassware surface. Initially, etching appears as shades of blue, purple, brown or pink when the glassware is held at an angle towards the light. In more advanced stages, the glassware appears cloudy, and in severe cases it appears frosted. There is no way to restore the glassware once it has become etched. There is also no way to predict what glassware may be affected as it is not related to the cost or quality of the glassware but rather how the glass was manufactured. 1. Manually prerinsing dishes before loading. Removing all food soils prior to loading increases the alkaline concentration of the dishwasher detergent and increases the possibility of etching. 2. Not adjusting the amount of detergent according to the level of water hardness. Refer to the chart on page 14. If the water is mechanically softened, the hardness level should be set at 3-4 grains per gallon rather than totally softened at 0-1 grains per gallon. 3. Water temperature is too high. Water entering the dishwasher should be between 120 F F. Do not use the water heating options. Do not use the heated dry option. Poor Drying 1. Not using a rinse aid such as Jet Dry* or Cascade Rinse Aid*, or failing to refill the rinse aid dispenser. Rinse aid greatly improves drying by making the water sheet off of the dishes more readily. For models without a dispenser, hang a rinse aid basket or disc in the back right corner of the lower rack. If the dishwasher has an automatic rinse aid dispenser (located in the door), use liquid rinse aid. If the dispenser is adjustable, turn to the MORE setting. Refill the rinse aid dispenser monthly. 2. Low water temperature. Adequate temperatures are required to heat the tub and dishes. This heat is needed for proper drying. 3. Not using the heated dry cycle. 4. Improper loading. Dishes and flatware should be loaded so they drain freely. Face soiled surfaces to the center. Keep large items from shielding small items. Load only one item between each set of tines. Avoid placing glasses over tines. This interferes with cleaning and drying results. Place silverware in the basket with some handles up and some down. 5. Not using the proper amount of dishwashing detergent. Dishwasher detergents contain ingredients that improve sheeting action of the water and aid in drying performance. Refer to the chart on page Using the Pots & Pans or Normal cycles when only the Light/China cycle is needed. Exposing the dishes to longer cycles or more detergent than necessary increases the possibility of etching. 6. Unrealistic expectations. Cups and glasses with concave bottoms will hold water. Plastic and Teflon have porous surfaces that hold water. Towel drying of these items may be necessary. Drying results in either of these situations can improve with the use of a rinse aid and the heated dry cycle, however some residual water or water droplets will remain.

18 18 Dishwashing Discoloration of Dishes or the Dishwasher Interior 1. Iron or manganese in the water supply can cause brown, red or black stains on dishes or the dishwasher interior. To remove this type of discoloration on dishware and the dishwasher tub, use a rust remover such as RoVer* Rust Remover (Part No ). Do Not use RoVer with metal items. To Use: a. Fill both detergent cups with RoVer. b. Set the controls and run a normal wash cycle. c. Follow with an additional rinse cycle. d. DO NOT use RoVer with dishwashing detergent. 2. Some foods (such as spaghetti sauce) can discolor the tub interior. Assure that the inlet water is a minimum of 120 F and that water heating options are being used. If the dishwasher is a non-water heating model, the inlet water should be 140 F for optimum results. Increase the amount of detergent being used. More detergent will help to keep food soils suspended. Less contact with the dishwasher tub will help prevent transfer of color from the food soils onto the tub. To remove the discoloration, follow these steps: a. Fill both detergent cups with a citric acid product such as Tang*, Fruit Fresh*, or Glisten*. b. Run a Normal cycle. c. Follow with another Normal cycle and dishwasher detergent. 3. A lime film or deposit may eventually build up on the dishwasher interior if there is a high calcium level in the water supply. Try ONE of the following procedures to remove this type of deposit: a. Use a damp cloth and a mild scouring powder. b. Initiate the Rinse & Hold portion of a cycle (with an empty dishwasher). During the fill, open the door and add 1/2 cup white vinegar to the water. Allow the cycle to complete (without detergent). Follow with a Normal cycle with detergent. c. Fill both detergent cups with RoVer* Rust Remover (Part No ). Set the controls to complete the Normal wash and rinse cycles. Follow with a shorter wash cycle with detergent. Do not use RoVer in the cycle with dishwasher detergent. Dishwasher Odor 1. Dishes washed too infrequently. Run a Rinse & Hold cycle, if dishes are being held until there is a full load, to prevent food soils from causing an odor. 2. Vinyl odor in a new dishwasher. The odor will go away with use. To resolve the odor, follow one of these recommendations: a. Use a lemon scented detergent and/or rinse aid. b. Fill both detergent cups with baking soda. Select a short wash cycle. After the water has circulated for about 5 minutes, unlatch the door to stop the dishwasher. Let it stand overnight. In the morning, latch the door to restart the dishwasher and allow the cycle to complete. c. Select a short wash cycle and allow the dishwasher to fill. When it is filled, open the door and add 1/4 cup of liquid chlorine bleach to the water. Close the door and allow the cycle to complete. * Brand names are trademarks of respective manufacturers.

19 Dishwashing 319 Suds or Foam in the Dishwasher 1. Use of a soap or detergent not designed for automatic dishwashers. ONLY use automatic dishwasher detergents in a dishwasher. If sudsing occurs from improper use of detergent, open the door slowly and sprinkle salt or vegetable oil on the suds. Follow up with several cycles WITHOUT detergent to thoroughly rinse the tub. 2. Use of too much dishwasher detergent (especially liquids and gels) for individual water conditions. For instructions regarding proper detergent amounts to use, see page Use of too little dishwasher detergent to suppress the suds and foaming that naturally occurs with some foods such as egg whites, mayonnaise and milk. See page 14 for recommended amounts. Detergent Remains in the Dispenser Cup 1. Adding the detergent to a wet cup. Always add fresh detergent to a dry cup. 2. Overfilling the detergent cup. 3. Leaving the detergent in the cup for prolonged periods of time. Add the detergent to the detergent cups immediately before starting the dishwasher. 4. The detergent cup is malfunctioning or is being blocked from opening. Be sure the dishwasher is not being loaded in a fashion that is preventing the detergent cups from opening. 4. Using detergent in both cups for shorter cycles. When the cycle selection is shorter than a normal cycle, use the main wash detergent cup only. 5. Using generic or store brand dishwasher detergent. Value brand detergents may not contain adequate amounts of suds suppressors. Switch to a major brand of dishwasher detergent. 6. Prerinsing dishes. Detergents will suds more if there are not enough food soils to act upon. Unfamiliar Sounds/Noisy Operation A new dishwasher may sound differently than the model it replaced. 1. Normal sounds include a hissing of the water valve during the fill, water circulation, or a humming during the drain. 2. Improper loading can result in dishes hitting each other during water circulation or wash arms hitting dishes as they rotate. 3. Installation (location, flooring, cabinetry, etc.) can affect noise production.

20 20 Dishwashing Chipping of Dinnerware and Glassware 1. Frequent breaking or chipping of dishware in an older dishwasher may signal a cracked or split spray arm. Cracks and splits can cause erratic turning of the spray arm and erratic water spraying. 2. Chipping occurred during normal use and was not noticed until the dishes were removed from the dishwasher. When dishes are loaded properly (according to manufacturer s directions) there is nothing in the dishwasher that will cause chipping. The dishes will only come into contact with the cushioned racks. Follow manufacturer s instructions for loading. Do not place more than one item between each set of tines. Plates and saucers should lean back against the tines rather than tilt forward. When placing crystal in the dishwasher, leave space between each item to prevent contact. Metal Marks on Dishes or Glassware Cause: 1. The dish or glassware has been in contact with a metal item (such as aluminum), leaving small black or gray marks or streaks. Be sure the dishwasher is loaded carefully to prevent metal items from touching other dishes. This is particularly important with disposable, foil-type pans. To remove: Use Zud* according to package directions. Washing extremely fragile and lightweight crystal and china in the dishwasher is not recommended. * Brand names are trademarks of respective manufacturers.

21 Dishwashing 321 Discoloration of Silverplate Cause: 1. The silverplate has worn thin and the base metal is showing through. The combination of dishwasher detergent and lack of hand toweling may result in a copper or bronze discoloration of the base metal. To remove the discoloration, polish with a silver polish or soak in vinegar for 10 minutes. This is a temporary treatment. The only permanent solution is replating the item with silver by a jeweler. Pitting of Metals Cause: 1. When two different metals (such as silver and stainless steel) touch in the hot environment of the dishwasher, electrolysis can take place which can cause pitting. Load silver and stainless steel so they do not touch in the silverware basket (preferably at opposite ends of the basket). Stainless Steel Discoloration or Rusting 1. Some stainless steel will take on a bluish cast when washed in the dishwasher. This happens due to the heat and the alkalinity of automatic dishwasher detergent. To remove the discoloration, use a paste of baking soda and water or a stainless steel cleaner. 2. Certain foods (such as table salt, vinegar, salad dressings, milk and milk products, fruits and juices, tomatoes, tomato products, and butter) can remove the oxide film on stainless steel. When stainless steel is made, a passivation process forms a protective oxide film on the surface of the steel. It is this film of oxide which makes stainless steel stainless. If it is removed, corrosion (rusting) will occur. If the stainless steel is washed, rinsed and dried thoroughly, the oxygen in the air will heal the breaks in the oxide film and return the stainless property to the steel. If food is not washed off promptly, the air cannot heal the break and corrosion will take place. To minimize rusting, rinse or wash as soon as possible. Polishing with a silver or stainless steel cleaner may temporarily remove the corrosion. Tarnishing (Sterling or Silverplate) 1. Sulfur in the water supply. Tarnishing due to sulfur becomes accelerated with automatic dishwashing because of the higher water temperatures and because towel drying has been eliminated. Since sulfur cannot be readily removed from the water supply, frequent polishing is the only answer. 2. Contact with sulfide-containing foods such as eggs, mayonnaise, salty or acidic foods. Silver coming into contact with these foods should be rinsed thoroughly as soon as possible after use, either by hand or by using the Rinse & Hold cycle (if the dishwasher is not going to be run immediately after the meal). Note: Silver (either sterling or plate) needs the buffing effect of towel drying to retain its luster (even when washed in an automatic dishwasher).

22 22 Dishwashing Items not to be Washed in a Dishwasher Most tableware, cookware, and silverware can be safely washed in the automatic dishwasher. If there are any doubts about a particular piece, the manufacturer of the item should be contacted. If the manufacturer cannot be reached, test wash a small item for several weeks before attempting to wash an entire set. The following chart provides general guidelines regarding what dishes to not wash in an automatic dishwasher. Aluminum Cast Iron Material Dishwasher Safe Special Information China/Stoneware Crystal Glass Gold-plated flatware Hollow handle knives Pewter Disposable Plastic Plastics Stainless Steel Sterling Silver or Silver Plate Tin Wooden Items Yes, except anodized aluminum and some cookware. No Yes, except antique or hand painted china. Yes, except antique or lightweight delicate crystal. Yes, except milkglass. No No No No Yes, if labeled dishwasher safe. Yes Check with manufacturer. Styles with commercial darkening are NOT dishwasher safe. No No High water temperature and detergents may affect finish. Check cleaning instructions. Seasoning will be removed and iron will rust. ALWAYS check manufacturer s recommendations before washing. Antique, hand-painted or over-the-glaze patterns may fade. Gold leaf may discolor. If in doubt, test wash a small item for several weeks before washing an entire set. ALWAYS check manufacturer s recommendation before washing. Some types of leaded crystal may etch with repeated washings. If in doubt, test wash a small item for several weeks before washing an entire set. Milkglass may yellow with repeated dishwasher washing. Will discolor. Handles may be attached to the blade with adhesives which may loosen if dishwasher washed. High water temperatures and detergent may discolor or pit finish. Cannot withstand high water temperatures and detergents. ALWAYS check manufacturer s recommendation before washing. Plastics vary in their capacity to withstand high water temperatures and detergents. ALWAYS check manufacturer s recommendation before washing. Run a Rinse & Hold cycle (select models) if not washing immediately. Prolonged contact with food containing salt, vinegar, milk products or fruit juice could damage finish. ALWAYS check manufacturer s recommendation before washing. Since prolonged contact with food containing salt, acid or sulfide (eggs, mayonnaise and seafood) could damage finish, running a Rinse & Hold cycle is recommended if not washing immediately. Commercial darkening may be removed by detergent. May rust. Always check manufacturer s recommendation before washing. Wood may warp, crack or discolor.

23 Cooking 323 Cooking Contents Poor Baking/Over or Under Browning Common Baking Problems and Causes Chart What is Convection Cooking? Poor Results When Convection Cooking Surface Cooking Is Slower than Expected Cannot Maintain Boil on Glass-Ceramic Surfaces When Canning Discoloration and Crazing to Porcelain Cooktop and Drip Bowls Problems Cleaning Glass-Ceramic Cooking Surfaces Damage to Glass-Ceramic Surfaces Chrome Drip Bowl Discoloration Porcelain Drip Bowl Stains Problems Cleaning Sealed Gas Burners & Grates Discoloration of Porcelain in Oven After Self-Clean Cycle Difficulty Cleaning Standard Clean Oven Continuous Clean Oven Does Not Clean Problems Cleaning Specialty Finishes Poor Performance Because of Cookware Resources Resources available for consumers regarding cooking appliance usage, questions and problems include: Questions & Answers Cleaning Ceramic-Glass Cooktops 751CG Broiling 752CG Cleaning Gas Cooking Surfaces 753CG Induction Cooking 754CG Drip Bowl Cleaning 755CG Poor Baking 756CG How A Microwave Oven Works 757CG Convection Cooking 758CG Ceramic-Glass Cooktops 759CG Electric Cooktop Choices 760CG Indoor Grilling with Downdraft Vent System 761CG Cookware 762CG Kitchen Venting 763CG Other Resources Cooking Appliance Buying Guide 876CG Cooking Made Simple 875CG

24 24 Cooking Poor Baking/Over or Under Browning Causes for both conventional and convection cooking: 1. Temperature shift in oven. As a cooking appliance gets older, often the oven temperature gets hotter. Baking times may vary from an old oven. THIS IS NORMAL. An easy way to confirm if the oven is calibrated correctly is to bake a white box cake mix or a tube of refrigerated biscuits. Following the box or package directions should result in a product that is done and evenly browned. (Preheat oven and place rack in the center of the oven.) Temperature settings on many cooking appliances with electronic controls may be easily adjusted by the customer to fit their expectations. (See User s Guide.) 2. Pan finish. Dark, dull pans absorb heat which results in darker browning. Shiny pans reflect heat which results in lighter browning. (Insulated cookie sheets, shiny or dull, follow these guidelines as well.) 4. Incorrect pan placement on the rack. Allow 1-2 inches of space around each pan and between pans and the oven walls. If baking on more than one rack, place the pans so that one is not directly over another except when baking cookies using convection bake (see page 26). 5. Oven not preheated. Preheating is necessary for good results when baking breads, cookies, cakes, etc. (Preheating is not necessary for casseroles and roasting.) To preheat, set the oven to the recommended temperature in the recipe or on the prepared mix directions. Wait minutes before placing the food in the oven. Many ovens have an audible signal or light indicating the oven is preheated. 6. Poor air circulation in oven. Do not put too may pans on a rack. Do not cover an entire oven rack or oven bottom with aluminum foil. This affects air circulation and baking results. A small piece of foil may be used to catch spillovers. Place it on a lower rack several inches below the baking pan. (See illustration below.) Shiny pans are recommended for cakes and cookies. Dark pans are recommended for pies and breads. If used for cakes and cookies, the oven temperature should be decreased by 25 F. Glass pans require a 25 F. decrease. 3. Incorrect rack position in oven. For single rack baking, center the rack so the food is in the middle of the oven. For multiple rack baking, check the User s Guide for recommendations. If food is placed on a rack toward the top of the oven, top browning may be too dark. If food is placed on a rack located near the bottom of the oven, the food may be too dark on the bottom. NOTE: If the previous baking tips have been carefully followed and the results are not as expected, refer to Baking Problems chart on page 25.

25 Cooking 325 Common Baking Problems and Causes If you have carefully followed the basic instructions and still experience poor results, these suggestions may be helpful. Problem Cakes are uneven.* Cakes high in middle or cracked.* Cakes fall. Cakes not done in center. Cakes, cookies, biscuits too brown on bottom or top.* Excessive shrinkage.* Pies don t brown. Cause Pans touching each other or oven walls. Batter uneven in pans. Uneven heat distribution in oven. Oven not level. Temperature too high. Overmixing. Too much flour. Pans touching each other or oven walls. Dark pans used. Pan too small. Too much shortening or sugar. Too much or too little liquid. Temperature too low. Old or too little baking powder. Pan too small. Oven door opened frequently. Insufficient baking. Temperature too high. Pan too small. Baking time too short. Pan not centered in oven. Oven not preheated. Pans touching each other or oven walls. Using glass, darkened, warped or dull finish metal pans. Rack position too high or low. Incorrect use of aluminum foil. Oven temperature too high. Too little leavening. Overmixing. Pan too large. Oven temperature too high. Baking time too long. Incorrect rack position. Using shiny metal pans. Temperature set too low. *If similar problems occur when convection baking is done, make sure the oven temperature has been decreased by 25 F. What Is Convection Cooking? The definition of convection is circulating air. In a convection oven, a fan circulates hot air over, under and around the food. The moving air disturbs the layer of cold air around the food, allowing the heat to surround the food. As a result, foods are evenly cooked and browned often in shorter cooking times, at lower temperatures and with the flexibility of using more racks. Poor Results When Convection Cooking 1. Improper baking temperature. Not reducing the temperature will result in overbrowning and uneven results when baking cookies, cakes, etc. When using recipes or prepared mixes developed for a conventional bake oven, set the oven temperature 25 F. lower than the recipe or package directions recommend. (Baking times will be the same or a few minutes less than the recommended times.) CONVECTION BAKING TIPS CRoasting 25% less time ONVECTION ROASTING TIPS 2. Improper roasting time. Not reducing roasting time will result in overdone meats. When convection roasting, roasting times should be decreased by percent (roasting temperatures will remain the same). 3. Using covers, lids and high-sided pans when roasting. The benefits of convection roasting are not achieved when the food is covered or placed in a high-sided roaster. 4. Dark pans. Will result in darker browning. Shiny, bright pans are recommended for convection baking of cookies and cakes. Continued on next page.

26 26 Cooking Poor Results When Convection Cooking continued 5. Using cookie sheets with sides. Results in uneven browning because the sides interfere with the flow of air. 6. Pans not placed in oven correctly. Center pans (stack) in front of the fan when baking cookies on two or three racks (see illustration). This will improve air circulation and browning. If baking items in pans with sides using two racks (i.e. cakes and pies), stagger pans so one is not directly over another. 7. Oven rack crowded. Allow at least 1-2 inches of space between the pans, oven walls and oven door. Pan placement for convection baked cookies. Surface Cooking Is Slower than Expected 1. Cookware that is oversized. Pans should not extend more than 1-inch beyond the cooking area on a glass-ceramic cooking surface. (On glass-ceramic surfaces a built-in temperature limiter will sense uneven heating when an oversized pan is used and lower the heat resulting in slow cooking.) Pans should not extend more than 2-inches on a coil or gas cooking surface. 2. Cookware that is not flat. To check for pan bottom flatness: Ruler Test: Place a ruler across the bottom of the pan. Hold it up to the light. Little or no light should be visible under the ruler. Bubble Test: Put an inch of water into the pan, place on cooktop and turn control to HI. Watch the bubble formation as the water heats uniform bubble formation equals good performance; uneven bubbles indicates uneven, slow cooking and hot spots. Cannot Maintain Boil on Glass-Ceramic Surfaces When Canning Cause: 1. Oversized canners or canners with ridges or grooved bottoms. When using a glass-ceramic cooking surface, a small canner (8-10 inches in diameter) will need to be used or use a canner designed for glass-ceramic cooking surfaces. These canners are made with a flat base on the bottom to fit the cooking area. Canners must be flat.

27 Cooking 327 Discoloration and Crazing to Porcelain Cooktop and Drip Bowls 1. Use of oversized canners and cookware. To help prevent damage when using a large canner or pan on a coil surface, a special element accessory is available. It elevates the canner or pan which reduces trapped heat. This prevents damage to the porcelain cooktop and drip bowls (see page 28). (Order the element accessory from your parts distributor model #CE1 for Maytag, Magic Chef and Jenn-Air free-standing models, and model #A145A for other Jenn-Air products.) 2. Excessive use of the HI heat setting. Use the HI heat setting just until water comes to a boil or food begins to cook, then reduce to the lowest heat setting that maintains the boil or cooking action. Food will not cook any faster at a fast boil than at a slow boil Problems Cleaning Glass-Ceramic Cooking Surfaces 1. Not cleaning surface before first use. Clean with Cooktop Cleaning Creme* (Part No ) This will make future cleaning easier. 2. Pan bottoms not clean and dry before use. 3. Cleaning not done routinely. If spills are not removed and burn on, they are more difficult to remove. Follow these guidelines: General cleaning and light soil: Use a clean dishcloth with soap and water or with a nonabrasive cleaning powder such as Bon Ami*. Rinse and dry. OR, apply a small amount of Cooktop Cleaning Creme (Part No ) with a nonabrasive cloth. Buff with a dry cloth. Moderate soil, metal marks from cookware or hard water marks: Gently scrub with a nonabrasive cleaning powder such as Bon Ami or Cooktop Cleaning Creme (Part No ). If the stain is not removed, reapply Cooktop Cleaning Creme. Cover with damp paper towels and let stand 30 minutes. Scrub again. Rinse and dry. Crusty, burned on soils: Use a single edge razor blade, place at a 30 angle and scrape off spot. Clean remaining soil with Cooktop Cleaning Creme. (Part No ). 4. Using incorrect cleaning products. Do not use abrasive cleaners such as cleansing powders, scouring pads, etc. They can scratch the surface. Do not use chemical based cleaning products containing chlorine bleach, ammonia or caustic agents. They can discolor the surface. * Brand names are trademarks of respective manufacturers.

28 28 Cooking Damage to Glass-Ceramic Surfaces 1. Using glass cookware, sliding pans with rough bottoms across the surface, using the surface as a cutting board or cooking directly on surface without a pan will cause scratches. 2. Sliding metal cookware, especially uncoated aluminum, across the surface or the use of trivets or metal stands (i.e. wok rings, etc.) will cause metal marks. Clean the surface as soon as it has cooled with Cooktop Cleaning Creme* (Part No ) to remove the metal marks or they will become permanent. 3. If plastic or substances with high sugar content melt on the cooktop and are not removed immediately, they will bond to the surface. Carefully, use a single edge razor blade held with a potholder to scrape the melted material or sugary boilover to a cooler area of the cooktop. Use several layers of paper towels to wipe up the spillover being careful not to burn yourself. 4. Allowing pans to boil dry, especially porcelain enamel pans. The finish on pans may bond to the glass-ceramic surface. 5. Not cleaning salt, sugar or other coarse particles off of the surface before cooking will cause scratches. Chrome Drip Bowl Discoloration 1. Food spills cause brown stains, if not removed promptly. Remove by washing the drip bowls frequently in warm sudsy water. (It is not recommended to wash chrome bowls in a dishwasher.) A mild abrasive cleaner such as Soft Cleanser* or Soft Scrub* and a plastic scrubber can be used to remove stubborn stains. If heavily soiled, place an ammonia soaked paper towel on the stains, allow to soak for a short time, then gently scrub with a plastic scrubber. 2. Overheating causes blue/gold stains. These stains generally cannot be removed unless a metal polish is used such as Flitz* (available in automotive supply stores). To minimize discoloration: a. use pans that are not more than two inches larger than the element. If an oversized pan is used, heat may be trapped under the pan causing discoloration. (An element accessory may also help. See page 27.) b. use flat bottom pans. c. avoid excessive use of the high heat setting. Porcelain Drip Bowl Stains Cause: 1. Food spills cause brown stains and burned on stains if not removed promptly. Remove by frequent washing in the dishwasher or in soapy water. For difficult soils use a plastic pad and a nonabrasive cleaner such as Bon Ami* or Cooktop Cleaning Creme (Part No ). If soil is not removed, reapply Cooktop Cleaning Creme. Cover with damp paper towels and let stand 30 minutes. Scrub again. Rinse and dry. To clean burned on soil: a. remove bowls from the cooking surface and place on newspapers. b. spray with commercial oven cleaner. (Be careful not to spray any other areas.) c. place the bowls in a large plastic bag overnight or for several hours. d. wearing rubber gloves, remove the bowls, wipe clean, rinse and dry.

29 Cooking 329 Problems Cleaning Sealed Gas Burners and Grates 1. Burned on food soils or spatters on burner head. Wipe the soiled area after it has cooled with a damp, not wet, cloth. Use care around the ignitor. THE BURNER WILL NOT LIGHT IF THE IGNITOR IS WET, SOILED OR DAMAGED. PORTS BURNER HEAD/ REMOVABLE CAP (select models) IGNITOR Discoloration of Porcelain in Oven After Self-Clean Cycle 1. Acid (tomato and milk based foods) and sugary spills (sweet potatoes, etc.) not wiped up prior to a self-clean cycle. Porcelain enamel is acid resistant, not acid proof and the combination of high heat and the acid/sugar causes discoloration and etching. It is best to wipe up as much of an acid spill as possible before a self-clean process. 2. Use of commercial oven cleaner on a self-clean oven. If oven cleaner is not thoroughly removed after use and a subsequent self-clean cycle is used, the area where the cleaner was used may discolor. Never use commercial oven cleaner in a self-clean oven. PORT BELOW IGNITOR To remove stubborn stains, use a plastic scouring pad and a nonabrasive cleaner such as Bon Ami* or Cooktop Cleaning Creme* (Part No ). If gas ports become blocked, use a straight pin rather than a toothpick to clean. Do not enlarge or distort the ports. Be especially aware of the gas port beneath the ignitor. If burner head has a removable burner cap, see following cleaning recommendations for burner grates. 2. Burned on food soils on burner grates. Clean grates frequently in hot, soapy water using a plastic pad. For stubborn soils, use a plastic pad and a nonabrasive cleaner such as Bon Ami or Cooktop Cleaning Creme (Part No ). If soil is not removed, reapply Cooktop Cleaning Creme. Cover with damp paper towels and let stand 30 minutes. Scrub again. Rinse and dry. To clean burned on soil: a. remove grates from the cooking surface and place on newspapers. b. spray with commercial oven cleaner. (Be careful not to spray any other areas.) c. place grates in a large plastic bag overnight or for several hours. d. wearing rubber gloves, remove the grates, wash in hot soapy water, rinse and dry. Difficulty Cleaning Standard Clean Oven 1. Spillovers and food soil not cleaned promptly. Wipe out the oven routinely to minimize the need for a large scale cleaning. 2. Ineffective cleaning agent used. For stubborn soils a commercial oven cleaner is needed. Follow the manufacturer s directions. Continuous Clean Oven Does Not Clean 1. Not enough use of the oven. The continuous clean finish works best with longer baking times. 2. Improper cleaners used. Powdered cleaners and commercial oven cleaners should not be used on the continuous clean finish. The chemicals in the cleaners will clog the porous finish eliminating the cleaning action. Cleaners such as Fantastik* or 409* may be used if area is rinsed with water. * Brand names are trademarks of respective manufacturers.

30 30 Cooking Problems Cleaning Specialty Finishes 1. Stainless Steel DO NOT use any cleaning product containing chlorine bleach. Always wipe with the grain when cleaning. To remove fingerprints and restore luster after cleaning, use Stainless Steel Magic Spray* (Part No ). Daily Cleaning/Light Soil using a soft cloth, wipe with one of the following: soapy water, white vinegar/water solution or a multi-surface cleaner. Rinse and dry. Moderate/Heavy Soil using a soft cloth, wipe with one of the following: Bon Ami*, Soft Scrub* (without bleach) or a similar nonabrasive cleaner. Rinse and dry. Stubborn soils may be removed with a damp Scotch- Brite* pad rubbed evenly with the grain. Discoloration using a damp sponge or soft cloth, wipe with Cameo Stainless Steel Cleaner*. Rinse immediately and dry. 2. Colored Stainless Steel (Blue Creek) Follow the first three bullet points under stainless steel cleaning. General Cleaning using a very soft cloth wipe with soapy water or a window cleaner. (Do not use paper towels, or other spray cleaners or abrasive cleaners, as they may scratch or mar the finish.) 3. Molded Colored Materials (Blue Creek) General Cleaning soap and water. For difficult stains gently scour using a mild-abrasive cleaner such as Soft Scrub and a green Scotch-Brite* pad. Rinse and dry. Follow with HOPE S Countertop Polish.* * Brand names are trademarks of respective manufacturers. Poor Performance Because of Cookware Stainless steel, if used alone, is a slow heat conductor. Copper or aluminum is often used as a bottom coating or as an inner core between two layers of stainless to improve heat conductivity. Copper and aluminum are excellent heat conductors. They are often used as a bottom coating or core to improve the heating of other pan materials. Porcelain-enamel is a glass-like substance fused to metal. Heating characteristics depend on the base metal. Cast iron is a good heat conductor, but slow to heat. It cooks evenly once temperature is reached. Glass is a slow conductor of heat and not recommended. 1. Poor conductivity of pan material. The pan material directly affects how evenly and quickly heat is transferred from the heat source to the pan. 2. Uneven, warped or grooved pan bottoms. Pans must be flat to work effectively, especially on glass-ceramic cooking surfaces. 3. Oversized pans. Pans should not extend more than 1-inch beyond the cooking area on glass-ceramic surfaces. On coil element and gas surfaces pans should not extend more than two-inches beyond the element or grate. 4. Balance and gauge. A light weight pan with a heavy handle could tip and fail to make good contact with the cooktop. Very thin gauge metal will produce hot spots.

31 Refrigeration 31 Refrigeration Contents Refrigerator Outside of the Refrigerator Feels Warm to the Touch Fresh Food Compartment is Too Warm or Too Cold Meat/Cheese Drawer is Too Warm or Too Cold Freezer Compartment is Too Warm Noisy Operation/Unfamiliar Sounds Refrigerator Runs Too Long or Too Infrequently Food is Dried Out or Dehydrated Fresh Produce is Dried Out, Wilted, Soft or Moldy Odor in Refrigerator or Food has an Off-Taste or Odor Meat in the Fresh Food Compartment has Dark Spots or has Turned Brown Beads of Moisture Appear on the Cabinet Exterior Freezer Burn Frost or Ice Crystals Forming in or on Frozen Food Packages Ice Cubes or Water From the Dispenser have an Odor or Off-Taste Icemaker Icemaker Does Not Make Enough Ice Ice Cubes are Too Small Icemaker Does Not Make Ice Food Storage Chart Resources Resources available for consumers regarding refrigerator usage, questions, and problems include: Questions & Answers Refrigerators 651CM Food Storage 741CG Energy Conservation 742CG Other Resources Refrigerator Buying Guide 851CG The Freshness Files 850CG

32 32 Refrigeration Outside of the Refrigerator Feels Warm to the Touch 1. Normal operation. Heat helps prevent moisture from condensing on the cabinet exterior 2. Improper clearance around the refrigerator. A space of at least 1/2 inch should be left between the refrigerator and adjacent walls or cabinets. Fresh Food Compartment is Too Warm or Too Cold 1. Fresh food (or refrigerator) control set incorrectly. Adjust control to the next setting (the next higher number will make the refrigerator colder; the next lower number will make it warmer). Do not change the control more than one setting at a time. Allow 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize before making further changes. 2. Freezer control set at coldest position. In refrigerator models with a manual damper temperature control system, an unnecessarily cold freezer setting can result in a warmer temperature in the fresh food compartment. In these models, the coldest freezer setting is recommended for short term use only. 3. Prolonged or frequent door openings. Food items should be removed from the unit as quickly as possible. Retrieve several items at one time, rather than opening the door several times. To check the temperature of the fresh food compartment: Place an appliance thermometer in a glass of water in the center of the refrigerator. Read after 24 hours. If needed, adjust the control one setting and check the temperature after another 24 hours. Meat/Cheese Drawer is Too Warm or Too Cold 1. The control slide on the drawer is incorrectly positioned. The slide regulates the amount of cold air that is channeled into the drawer. When the slide is positioned to the meat or cold position, the temperature inside the drawer will be at it s coldest (approximately 32 F - 34 F). Moving the slide towards the cheese or the cool position produces a more moderate (warmer) temperature within the drawer (approximately F). 2. The drawer does not have an adjustable temperature option. Without this capability, the drawer will not provide a temperature that is colder than the surrounding fresh food compartment. The temperature will be the same as the main refrigerator cabinet, however the food will be protected from any drying effect from the circulating air. CHEESE MEAT

33 Refrigeration 33 Freezer Compartment is Too Warm 1. The freezer control is set too warm. Adjust the freezer control to the next colder setting. Do not change the control more than one setting at a time. Allow 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize before making further adjustments. 2. Prolonged door openings or the door has not been closed securely. 3. Condenser needs cleaning. The No Clean commercial-duty condenser design does not need cleaning for efficient operation in normal home usage situations. It may, however, need to be cleaned if the operating environment is dirty, greasy or there is significant pet traffic in the area. In these kind of situations, the No Clean Condenser can be cleaned using a cleaning brush (part no ). 4. Adding too much warm or room temperature food at one time. This can slow the rate of freezing and can raise the temperature of frozen foods already in the freezer, lowering the quality of the food being stored. As a general rule, no more than three pounds of food per cubic foot of freezer space should be added to the freezer within a 24 hour period. To check the temperature of the freezer compartment: Place an appliance thermometer between packages and read after 24 hours. If needed, adjust the control one setting and check the temperature after another 24 hours. Noisy Operation/Unfamiliar Sounds 1. Today s refrigerators are built with smaller, more efficient compressors. These are not louder but do produce a higher pitch which can be mistaken as louder in some operating environments. 2. Fan operation required for normal air flow in and around the fresh and frozen food compartments. 3. Cabinet vibration can occur if the refrigerator is not level or if the refrigerator is installed on a weak floor. 4. A sizzling sound can occur in the freezer compartment by defrost water dripping on the defrost mechanism. 5. Popping or cracking sounds may be heard as metal parts expand and contract. 6. Bubbling or gurgling sounds (like water boiling) result when the refrigerant boils off as it circulates. 7. A dripping sound can occur as water drips into the defrost pan beneath the refrigerator during the defrost cycle. This sound only occurs during the defrost cycle. 8. A clicking noise can sometimes be heard as the defrost timer begins and ends the defrost cycle. 9. The automatic icemaker may produce several sounds. Buzzing of the water valve, Water running as the ice tray fills, Rattling of the ice cubes as they fall into the ice bin.

34 34 Refrigeration Refrigerator Runs Too Long or Too Infrequently 1. Normal operation when comparing the run time of a new refrigerator to that of an older model. Today s refrigerators use smaller compressors that run more frequently, but use less energy. This provides more stable temperatures within the refrigerator. 2. Temperature control set too cold. Check the temperature of the fresh and frozen food compartments (see pages 32 and 33). The fresh food compartment of the refrigerator should be kept between 34 and 40 F, with an optimum temperature of 37 F. If the fresh food compartment is too cold, adjust the control to the next lower number. Allow 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize before making further adjustments. The freezer compartment of a refrigerator should be kept at 0 F or slightly lower. 3. Prolonged or frequent door openings. Food items should be removed from the unit as quickly as possible. Remove all foods needed at one time, rather than opening the door several times. 4. If the room temperature is excessively high, it is normal for a refrigerator to run longer or more often. Lower the room temperature, if possible. 5. Fresh food or freezer compartment is overloaded or underloaded. Shelves should not be overloaded. Overloading prevents proper air flow and interferes with the refrigerator s ability to cool or freeze evenly. The freezer compartment should be at least 2/3 full. The frozen bulk provided by the foods within the freezer compartment helps to keep more of the cold air within the unit when a door is opened. If this compartment is less than 2/3 full (as in the above example), it is helpful to fill milk cartons half full of water and store them in the freezer to provide more frozen bulk. 6. It is normal for the unit to run more if a quantity of warm food has been recently added. 7. Condenser needs cleaning or there is poor air circulation around the condenser. The No Clean commercial-duty condenser design generally does not need cleaning for efficient operation in normal home usage situations. It may, however, need to be cleaned if the operating environment is dirty, greasy or if there is significant pet traffic in the area. In these kind of situations, the No Clean Condenser can be cleaned using a cleaning brush (part no ). Food is Dried Out or Dehydrated 1. Food was stored uncovered or poorly covered. 2. Crisper or Meat/Cheese Drawer not tightly closed. 3. Food stored too long. Refer to the food storage chart (page 39) for suggested storage times.

35 Refrigeration 3 35 Fresh Produce is Dried Out, Wilted, Soft or Moldy 1. Fresh produce not stored in the crispers. Fruit and vegetables will dry out and deteriorate prematurely if stored on an open refrigerator shelf (see example on page 34). 2. Fruit or vegetables not stored at the proper humidity level. Generally, vegetables require higher humidity conditions while fruits need lower humidity. The control should be set at high or vegetables for storing vegetables and low or fruit for storing fruits (in refrigerators with humidity controlled crispers). FRUIT VEGETABLES 6. Fruits and vegetables not stored in separate crispers. Fruits and vegetables have different humidity requirements and should be stored separately. Certain fruits emit ethylene gas which hastens spoiling of some vegetables. 7. Temperature too low. This can cause fresh produce to freeze, destroying the cell structure and resulting in chill injury (browning, pitting, watery breakdown, decay). Food quality is unacceptable when this happens. The fresh food compartment of a refrigerator should be kept between 34 F - 40 F, with an optimum temperature of 37 F. Refrigerator temperatures can be checked by using an appliance thermometer (see page 32). 3. Certain vegetables not wrapped. Leafy vegetables, such as lettuce and spinach should be stored in the crispers in plastic bags or air-tight containers to further reduce moisture loss. 4. Too much moisture can shorten the storage time of vegetables, especially leafy vegetables. Drain these vegetables well before storing. Store vegetables unwashed. Washing strips away the natural protection, so wait until just prior to use to wash. 5. Crisper drawer not closed tightly. 8. The quality of the produce when it was purchased. Quality can vary from item to item, variety to variety, and season to season. Sort fresh produce before storing and use bruised or soft pieces first. Discard any pieces showing signs of decay. 9. Fresh produce is stored too long. Refer to the food storage chart on page 39 for suggested storage times.

36 36 Refrigeration Odor in Refrigerator or Food has an Off-Taste or Odor 1. Foods not wrapped and tightly sealed in foil, selfsealing bags or plastic wrap. Odorous vegetables such as onions and cabbage should be wrapped before they are placed in the crisper. 2. Interior of the refrigerator may need cleaning. Follow the cleaning steps listed below. 3. Defrost pan needs cleaning. Check the User s Guide for instructions on removal and replacement of the defrost pan. Note: In some units, the defrost pan is not readily accessible to the consumer and instructions for the removal of the defrost pan are not included in the User s Guide. Meat in the Fresh Food Compartment has Dark Spots or has Turned Brown; Cheese has White or Green Spots 1. Oxidation. It is natural for meat to darken with time. If fresh meat is not going to be used within 1-2 days, it should be stored in the freezer. 2. Fresh or cured meat has been stored too long. Brown, green or yellow discoloration can be due to bacterial growth and should be disposed of. 3. Cheese has become moldy. It is normal for mold to occasionally develop on the surface of hard cheese (Swiss, Cheddar, Parmesan). Cut off at least an inch around and below the moldy area, keeping the knife out of the mold itself. The remaining cheese is safe to eat. DO NOT try to save individual cheese slices, cottage cheese or other soft cheese that has molded. 4. A food may be spoiled from being stored too long or forgotten. Throw out any food that is suspected unsafe for consumption. Refer to the Food Storage Chart on page 39 for approximate recommended storage times. To remove an odor, follow these steps: Unplug the refrigerator and thoroughly wash the inside of the unit, including all shelves, drawers, accessories and gaskets with a mixture of 2 tablespoons of baking soda dissolved in 1 quart of warm water. Pay special attention to any corners, crevices or grooves into which odor-causing liquid may have settled. Dry thoroughly. Place open boxes of baking soda on the refrigerator and freezer shelves. If odor persists, spread activated charcoal on a pan and place on a refrigerator shelf or Lightly crumple sheets of newspaper and loosely pack a refrigerator shelf which has been emptied of food. Sprinkle the newspaper with water and close the doors. Replace the newspaper every 1-2 days. In 5-6 days the odor should be gone.

37 Refrigeration 37 Beads of Moisture Appear on the Cabinet Exterior Freezer Burn Freezer burn is a gray/white area on food which is dry, tough and may be off-flavored. 1. Hot, humid weather. 2. Installing a refrigerator in a hot, humid location such as near a heater, clothes dryer, range or sunny window. 3. Older model refrigerator. Top-mount refrigerators have historically had an Energy Saver Switch. In models with this switch, adjust the control to the Reduces Moisture setting to turn on a heater. This heater helps prevent moisture from forming on the cabinet exterior. New design top-mount refrigerators are engineered to automatically prevent moisture formation on the cabinet exterior and do not require the Energy Saver Switch. 1. Failure to use air-, moisture- or vapor-proof packaging (ie: heavy duty aluminum foil, freezer bags, or polyethylene-coated freezer wrap) to properly wrap frozen foods for longer term storage. Protruding bones and other sharp edges should be padded with extra wrap to avoid puncturing the wrap, which would introduce unwanted air into the package. Frost or Ice Crystals Forming in or on Frozen Food Packages 1. Air space in the package. Moisture evaporates from the food and it then condenses as ice crystals. To prevent this, remove as much air as possible from packages before sealing and freezing. 2. Prolonged door openings or a door that is not closed securely. Remove freezer items quickly. Remove several items at one time rather than opening the door several times. Be sure there are no items blocking the door open. 2. The freezer control may not be set cold enough. Adjust the control to the next higher number. Allow the temperature to stabilize for 24 hours before making further adjustments. 3. Refreezing of partially thawed food. Avoid adding too much warm food to the freezer at once. Do not place warm packages directly against the surface of already frozen food. 4. Food has been frozen too long. Refer to the Food Storage Chart on page 39 for approximate recommended storage times.

38 38 Refrigeration Ice Cubes or Water From the Dispenser Have an Odor or Off-Taste 1. Ice has absorbed odors from other foods. If ice is not used up rapidly, store it in a covered container to help prevent odor absorption. Foods within the refrigerator or freezer should be covered to prevent odor transfer. Icemaker Problems Icemaker Does Not Make Enough Ice Cause: 1. The freezer temperature is not cold enough. Set the freezer control to a colder setting. Change only by 1 setting at a time. Allow 24 hours for the temperature to restabilize before making further adjustments. 2. The ice bin or freezer needs cleaning. Follow the cleaning guidelines in the User s Guide. 3. There may be strong tasting or strong smelling minerals in the water source. Use a filter (Part No ) to remove minerals such as sulfur from the water supply. 4. The ice is old. Dispose of the ice and make a fresh supply. 5. The refrigerator is connected to an infrequently used water pipe, causing a metallic taste in the water and or ice. Try a filter (Part No ) designed to remove tastes and odors. 6. The icemaker is new. It is normal for the first few loads of ice to have an offtaste. Dispose of this ice. 7. The water has become stale. Draw several glasses of water and discard the stale water. This freshens the water supply within the reservoir. Ice Cubes are Too Small Cause: 1. Inadequate water supply to the icemaker. Low water pressure. Clogged water line. Icemaker Does Not Make Any Ice 1. New freezer is still warm. It may take up to 24 hours for the freezer to reach a temperature to freeze ice cubes. 2. The control lever is positioned in the OFF position. 3. The control lever is blocked into the OFF position by lodged ice cubes. Remove the lodged cubes and reposition the wire lever to the ON or the down position. 8. The filter in the water line is old. Replace the filter (Part No or for tastes and odors, or for tastes, odors, and scaling). Replenish the water dispenser with fresh water.

39 Foods Refrigerator Freezer Storage Tips DAIRY PRODUCTS Butter Milk & cream Cream cheese, cheese spread & cheese food Cottage cheese Sour cream Hard cheese (Swiss, Cheddar & Parmesan) Eggs in the shell, Leftover yolks or whites Apples Bananas Pears, plums, avocados Berries, cherries, apricots Grapes Citrus fruits Pineapples, cut Asparagus Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower, green peas, lima beans, green onions, peppers Cabbage, celery Carrots, parsnips, beets, & turnips Lettuce Chicken and Turkey, whole Chicken and Turkey, pieces Fish Bacon Beef or lamb, ground Beef or lamb, roast & steak Ham, fully cooked, whole half slices Luncheon meat Pork, roast Pork, chops Sausage, ground Sausage, smoked Veal Frankfurters 1 month 1 week 1-2 weeks 3-5 days 10 days 1-2 months 3 weeks 2-4 days 1 month 2-4 days 3-4 days 2-3 days 3-5 days 1-2 weeks 2-3 days 1-2 days 3-5 days 1-2 weeks 7-10 days 7-10 days 1-2 days 1-2 days 1-2 days 7 days 1-2 days 3-5 days 7 days 5 days 3 days 3-5 days 3-5 days 3-5 days 1-2 days 7 days 3-5 days 7 days 6-9 months Not recommended Not recommended Not recommended 4-6 months May become crumbly Not recommended 9-12 months 8 months (cooked) 6 months (whole/peeled) Not recommended 6 months 1 month (whole) Not recommended 6-12 months 8-10 months 8-10 months months 8-10 months Not recommended 12 months 9 months 2-6 months 1 month 3-4 months 6-9 months 1-2 months 1-2 months 1-2 months 1-2 months 4-6 months 4 months 1-2 months 1-2 months 4-6 months 1 month Refrigeration 3 Food Storage Chart (Storage times are approximate and may vary depending on type of packaging, storage temperature and quality of food when purchased.) EGGS FRUITS VEGETABLES POULTRY & FISH MEATS Wrap tightly or cover. Check carton date. Close tightly. Don t return unused portions to original container. Don t freeze cream unless whipped. Wrap tightly. Store in original carton. Check carton date. Wrap tightly. Cut off any mold. Refrigerate small ends down. For each cup of yolks to be frozen, add 1 tsp. sugar for use in sweet, or 1 tsp. salt for non-sweet dishes. May also store unripe or hard apples at F. Ripen at room temperature before refrigerating. Bananas & avocados darken when refrigerated. May also store at F. If refrigerated, store uncovered. Will not ripen after purchase. Use quickly. Don t wash before refrigerating. Store in crisper. Wrap odorous foods. Leave peas in pods. Wrap odorous foods & refrigerate in crisper. Remove tops. Wrap odorous foods & refrigerate in the crisper. Keep in original packaging for refrigeration. Place in the Meat and Cheese Drawer. When freezing longer than 2 weeks, overwrap with freezer wrap. Fresh meats can be kept in original packaging for refrigeration. Place in the Meat and Cheese Drawer. When freezing longer than 2 weeks, overwrap with freezer wrap. Unopened, vacuum-packed luncheon meat may be kept up to 2 weeks in the Meat and Cheese Drawer. Processed meats should be tightly wrapped and stored in the Meat and Cheese Drawer. Sources: United States Department of Agriculture; Food Marketing Institute; Cooperative Extension Service, Iowa State University 39