AATCC TM Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering. AATCC TM Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering

Transcription

1 AATCC TM Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC TM Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering AATCC TM Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene: Machine Method

2 Dimensional Change a generic term for changes in the length or width of a fabric or garment specimen subjected to specified conditions. The change is usually expressed as a percentage of the initial dimension of the specimen.

3 Laundering A process intended to remove soils and/or stains by treatment (washing) with aqueous detergent solution and normally including rinsing, extraction and drying.

4 Drycleaning The cleaning of fabrics with organic solvents such as petroleum solvent, perchloroethylene or fluorocarbon.

5 Why Dimensional Change Matters Care labels 16 CFR 423

6 Why Dimensional Change Matters Customer satisfaction Impacts other fabric/garment properties

7 Can be Combined with Other Methods Appearance AATCC TM88B AATCC TM88C AATCC TM124 AATCC TM143 Skew/Twist AATCC TM179 AATCC TM207 Stain Release AATCC TM130

8 Scope TM135 Flat fabrics Individual panels of sewn items TM150 Garments Circular knits used in tubular form TM158 Fabrics & garments Excludes very sensitive materials requiring special care

9 Materials Indelible marking pen Ruler or shrinkage scale Conditioning facilities Flat surface for marking and measuring

10 Shrinkage Scale Use with 10-in or 18-in benchmarks Measures % change directly Be sure to use the correct side of the Shrinkage (-) scale! Growth (+) PERCENT SHRINKAGE AATCC PO BOX RESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, NC Shrinkage (-) Growth (+)

11 Selvage Test Specimens: TM135 3 specimens Option 1: mm (15 15 in) Option 2: mm (24 24 in) Narrow fabrics: 380 mm (15 in) long Different warp & fill yarns Pink edges as needed May also be used for TM124, TM179, TM130

12 Selvage Garment Test Specimens: TM150 3 specimens (garments) when possible May also be used for TM143, TM179, TM207, TM130

13 Test Specimens: TM158 Fabric specimens mm Slit circular knits Stitched edges with polyester thread or Garment WWWWWWW WWWWWWW WWWWWWW WWWWWWW

14 Conditioning ASTM D1776 Flat, single layer, no tension or On hanger Air circulation through and around 21 C ±2 C (70 F ±4 F) 65% ±5% relative humidity (RH)

15 Benchmarks: TM135 Mark 250- or 460-mm: W1 L1 W2 L2 W3 L3 For ruler: Measure to nearest mm, ⅛ in., or ⅟10 in. Calculate average L Calculate average W Measurement A (original)

16 Benchmarks: TM135 (narrow) < 25 mm 380 mm mm Use full width Mark 250-mm: L1 L2 (if mm wide) Mark W1 (optional) Measure Calculate average L Calculate average W Measurement A (original)

17 Benchmarks: TM mm (1 in) from edges and seams Mark 250- or 460-mm: W1 L1 W2 L2 W3 L3 Measure Measurement A (original)

18 Benchmarks: TM150 Benchmarks across panels may be used Mark & report measurement points Mark and measure: Front length Front width

19 Benchmarks: TM158 3 pairs each direction 250 mm apart Mark garment areas separately Garment panels Outer fabric/lining

20 Laundering Materials Automatic washer Tumble dryer or drying facilities Detergent Ballast

21

22 Standard Washing Conditions Alternate conditions listed in LP1 (note as a modification of the test method)

23 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent Powder detergent For traditional top-loading washers 66 g per load

24 Standard Reference Detergent No phosphates No bleach, enzymes, colors, fragrances Consistency for valid comparison of test results With or without optical brightener

25 Laundering Ballast cm (36 36 in) hemmed white sheets Type 1: 100% cotton Type 3: 50% polyester/ 50% cotton

26 Washing Procedure Select machine cycle Select wash temperature Add water Add detergent Add specimens and enough ballast to make 1.8-kg (4-lb) load Start wash cycle

27 Standard Drying Conditions (A) Tumble i. Cotton Sturdy ii. Delicate iii. Permanent Press (B) Line (C) Drip (D) Screen

28 Tumble Dry (A) Remove from wash immediately after final spin Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion Place full load (specimens and ballast) in dryer Set exhaust temperature Normal or Perm Press: 68 C (155 F) max. Delicate: 60 C (140 F) max. Dry completely Remove immediately

29 Line Dry (B) Remove from wash immediately after final spin Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion TM135: Hang specimens by two corners, fabric length in vertical direction TM150: Hang specimens on hangers Dry in still air at room temperature 26 C (78 F) Do not blow air directly on specimens

30 Line Dry (B)

31 Line Dry (B)

32 Drip Dry (C) Remove from wash immediately after final rinse (soaking wet, before final spin) Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion Hang as for line dry

33 Screen Dry (D) Remove from wash immediately after final spin Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion Spread on horizontal surface allowing air movement on all sides Smooth without distorting or stretching Dry in still air at room temperature 26 C (78 F) Do not blow air directly on specimens

34 Screen Dry (D)

35 Number of Laundering Cycles Pass after 1 cycle: continue to 3 cycles Fail after 1 cycle: stop test or As agreed between buyer and seller

36 Ironing If specimens would always be ironed by a consumer, iron before measuring Minimal pressure to remove wrinkles

37 Drycleaning Materials Perchloroethylene Sorbitan mono-oleate (Span 80) Drycleaning machine Ballast

38 Drycleaning Reagents Perchloroethylene See Safety Precautions! Group 2A carcinogen Respiratory or dermal entry Use ventilated hood, chemical goggles, impervious gloves and apron Sorbitan monooleate Skin, eye, respiratory irritant

39 Drycleaning Machine Rotating cage mm diameter 300 mm depth 3-4 lifters g-force cleaning g-force extraction

40 Drycleaning Ballast Clean fabrics or garments White or light color 80% wool/20% cotton or rayon Total load: 50 kg/m 3 of cage volume (33 kg/m 3 for sensitive materials) 10% specimen mass (90% ballast) Condition for 24 hours

41 Drycleaning Procedure Add conditioned load to machine Add 6.5 L perc solution per kg of load 1 g/l sorbitan monooleate Maintain 30 ± 3 C solvent temperature

42 Drycleaning Procedure Prepare emulsion & stir 1 part (by volume) sorbitan monooleate 3 parts perc 2 parts water (add last) Start machine (filter circuit off) Add emulsion 2% water on mass of load Add slowly (2-12 min) Between inner and outer cage Below solvent level

43 Drycleaning Procedure Run machine 15 min Drain solvent Extract 2 min ( 1 min at full speed) Add fresh perc solution (6.5 L/kg) Rinse 5 min Extract 3 min ( 2 min at full speed)

44 Drycleaning Procedure: Sensitive Materials 10 L perc solution per kg of load Solvent RH 63% (no emulsion addition) Run 10 min Extract 1 min at full speed

45 Drying Procedure Use combined or separate machine Tumble in circulating warm air Outlet 60 C or inlet 80 C Appropriate time (auto solvent-dryness control preferred) Blow air at ambient temperature Continue rotating load 3-5 min

46 Finishing Procedure Remove specimens after drying Place garments on hangers Lay fabric on flat surface Wait 30 min before finishing Steam or press as appropriate Press kpa 2 Steam former 5-20 s 5-20 s warm air

47 Number of Drycleaning Cycles 1 cycle or As agreed between buyer and seller Most change released after 3-5 cycles

48 Conditioning Repeat conditioning procedure after final dry, iron, press, or steam

49 Final Measurement: Shrinkage Scale Read % change directly from scale Calculate average change in length Calculate average change in width

50 Final Measurement: Ruler Measure between marked points Same surface Same measurement device For TM135: Calculate average length measurement Calculate average width measurement Measurement B (after laundering)

51 Calculation: Benchmarks Calculate length and width change separately nearest 0.1% for laundering nearest 0.2% for drycleaning Average Dimensional Change = B-A 100% A A = initial measurement (avg for TM135) B = final measurement (avg for TM135)

52 Calculation: Garments Calculate change for each garment location nearest 0.1% for laundering nearest 0.2% for drycleaning Average length measurements, if applicable Average width measurements, if applicable

53 Interpretation Negative dimensional change: shrinkage Positive dimensional change: growth -10% L -10% W -10% L +10% W +10% L +10% W

54 Report: TM135 & TM150 Sample description Test method (including year) Ballast (Type 1 or 3) Detergent (with out without brightener) Number of laundering cycles (usually 3) Laundering conditions Distortion/wrinkling before laundering Iron setting, if used Modification(s) of test method

55 Report: TM135 & TM150 For each direction or garment location: Direction/location Average dimensional change to nearest 0.1% Number of measurements in average Usually 9: 3 sets of benchmarks 3 specimens Original benchmark distance

56 Report: TM158 Test method Normal or Sensitive procedure % Dimensional change Each direction Each garment location Specimen % of load Ballast material Maximum inlet or outlet drying air temp Finishing treatment Number of cycles

57 Questions? Diana Wyman Technical Director, AATCC Adi Chehna Chair RA42, Dimensional Changes Test Methods