A GARDENER S GUIDE TO A HEALTHIER ENVIRONMENT WHAT YOU CAN DO TO PREVENT POLLUTION

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1 A GARDENER S GUIDE TO A HEALTHIER ENVIRONMENT WHAT YOU CAN DO TO PREVENT POLLUTION

2 DO YOU THINK THAT YOU RE A FRIEND TO THE ENVIRONMENT? PLEASE READ ON...YOU MAY BE SURPRISED. First some facts. Did you know? We waste millions of gallons of water each year through inefficient watering practices (e.g., running a hose for an hour uses up 375 gallons of water). Runoff from our gardens carries fertilizers, pesticides, soil and other pollutants into our streams, lakes and bays degrading water quality and harming aquatic life. Our use of landscape equipment with two-cycle gasolinepowered engines is a significant contributor to air pollution. For example, gas-powered garden tools emit 5% of the nation s air pollution and a gas-powered mower emits 11 times the air pollution of a new car for each hour of operation. These hydrocarbon emissions create ozone which in turn is very harmful to trees and other vegetation. The average gardener uses pesticides at rate 20 times that of farmers. Pesticides are often applied at inappropriate times, such as when insects are not vulnerable. While in the right situations pesticides are invaluable, overuse and inappropriate use often kill beneficial insects and other wildlife. Less than 10% of all insects are harmful to plants. Pesticides have the potential to cause serious human health problems when not handled properly nor applied with extreme caution per directions. Our insatiable craving for new homes, larger lots and vast lawns has been responsible for much of the loss of wildlife habitat and prime farmland in the last 50 years. Plant and animal species are becoming extinct at a greater rate than at any time in history. -l-

3 Organic yard waste is a major contributor to the landfill crisis in America. It accounts for 20% of municipal solid waste generated each year. Grass clippings account for most of this waste. Noise pollution from landscape equipment has seriously compromised the serenity of our neighborhoods. Plants that we innocently introduce to our gardens can seriously impact nearby natural habitats. Plants like kudzu, water hyacinth, loosestrife and crown vetch either grow or self-propagate at such a rate that they outcompete native vegetation, with the result being reduced habitat values and loss of biodiversity. These and other disturbing environmental problems are caused by well-meaning backyard gardeners like you and me. However, through education and attitudinal or procedural changes, we can eliminate these harmful practices. The following pages contain some environmentally-friendly practices that should be considered and adopted wherever feasible. PLANNING YOUR GARDEN (OR THE PURCHASE OF PLANT MATERIAL) Most of you are already aware that planning is the most important phase of gardening. This goes for pollution prevention as well. Here are a some tips to keep in mind. Plant appropriate species to meet your needs and your specific site conditions which can vary dramatically, even in the -2-

4 same backyard. Consider the ultimate size and shape desired before looking at plants. Next assess your site conditions for soil characteristics (ph level, moisture retentiveness, etc), sunlight and rainfall. Once your requirements are established, research available plants through reputable nurseries, garden clubs, agricultural extension services, botanic gardens and libraries. Keep in mind that many nurseries, particularly the large national and regional chains, sell a wide variety of plant material, some of which may not be hardy for your area. By selecting the proper plants, you are not only on your way to having a healthier garden, but you will be preventing pollution by conserving water and not having to prune, fertilize nor apply pesticides as much. Native species should be considered first as they have proven to be hardy to the area. Exotic plants, unless carefully selected, can be nigh in maintenance or biological nightmares that take over the landscape. Some overlooked native plants to consider in the Middle Atlantic area include the sugar maple, white oak, swamp oak, persimmon, sassafras, witchhazel, mapleleaf viburnum, shagbark hickory and native azaleas and rhododendrons. Additional plants to avoid include: Norway maple, ailanthus (tree of heaven), mulberry, Japanese honeysuckle, and oriental bittersweet. Plant trees and evergreens to shade buildings and paved areas. They can keep buildings cooler in summer and warmer in winter by providing shade and windbreaks. Deciduous trees should be planted on the south and west sides of buildings and coniferous trees are ideal on the side of the prevailing winter winds (usually north or northwest). Effective plantings in this manner can reduce energy needs for heating and cooling by as much as 30%. By shading paved surfaces such as driveways and parking areas with trees, you can reduce summer heat buildup which can be stressful to nearby plantings. -3-

5 Keep lawn areas to a minimum as they are maintenance intensive, requiring frequent mowing, watering, and application of fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides. Instead, consider native groundcovers or a mixture of trees and shrubs in a natural arrangement (see below). Plant a variety of species rather than a monoculture. Monocultures, in addition to being a fairly sterile environment, are very susceptible to infestations of harmful insects and rapid spread of disease. Weather stress can also be catastrophic to this type of garden. Consider creating a natural garden to provide additional habitat value and decrease maintenance. In a balanced landscape, everything is in check, including diseases and pests. All green plants emit oxygen which humans and animals need to breathe. The more biomass (volume of green vegetation) the more oxygen produced. Thus, a richly luxuriant garden, especially a woodland, has much better air quality than a lawn. When we take into account the harmful impacts from mowers and blowers and runoff of fertilizers and pesticides, lawns can even be harmful to the environment. Include water in the landscape for i n c r e a s e d biodiversity and landscape balance. In addition to being a landscape focal point, ponds provide valuable habitat and can serve as stormwater retention basins (however, don t locate them in wetlands which are federally protected). For child safety and maximum wetland wildlife value, the pond periphery should be gently sloping shallow water (ideal for many wetland plants); the center should be 3-4 feet deep to provide refuge for fish. from cats, raccoons and winter freezing. Fish, frogs and snails will help keep insect populations under control and reduce algae buildup. -4-

6 MAINTENANCE I. Mulching and Composting Rather than discarding plant material, create or enlarge your compost pile. For lawns, use a composting mower to eliminate the need to dispose of excess grass clippings and provide a natural source of nutrients to reduce fertilizer needs. Excess clippings, leaves and pruned branches make excellent compost ingredients that can later be applied as a soil additive or mulch for vegetable and flower gardens and ornamentals. Mulches also reduce the need to weed and water, cut down soil erosion, and moderate soil temperature. In a true natural garden, it s beneficial to allow most branches and leaves to remain; they ll decay and provide habitat and nutrients. Chipped bark and branches can make an excellent natural path through your garden. II. Tools/Equipment Use hand tools wherever practicable. Power tools are noisy and their energy demands and emissions are polluting. Electric tools are quieter, but electricity generation (particularly the mining and burning of coal) causes significant air and water pollution. Push mowers, brooms and hand rakes are not only non-polluting, but they provide healthy exercise to the user and are less dangerous. When power equipment is necessary, take extra precautions to avoid fuel spills (use leakless nozzles), maintain equipment properly, use protective clothing, and show -5-

7 consideration regarding the noise generated. Buy equipment that is the quietest, cleanest burning and most fuel efficient. III. Watering Conserving water in the garden starts with selecting appropriate plants for your climatic, soil, and light conditions. Next, cluster plants with similar moisture requirements and apply mulch or, in the natural garden, allow leaves and other organics to naturally decompose. Watering should then only be necessary after planting and during severe droughts. Drip irrigation is one of the most efficient forms of irrigation. It is especially valuable on slopes where runoff would be high. When watering, apply the necessary amount of water at the appropriate time. Ram gauges and soil moisture probes can help you judge the need. Early morning applications of no more than an inch of water per week is preferable to numerous light waterings which only wet the surface and encourage shallow, vulnerable root growth. Timers, underground sprinklers and other devices that control application rates and amounts are also recommended. Finally, rainwater can be collected from roofs and other surfaces and gray water from showers and sinks for watering lawns and gardens. IV. Pesticides Research your problems by means of reference books, nurseries, garden club, agricultural extension services and/or botanic gardens before buying pesticides. Identify causes so that most appropriate action can be taken at most effective time. Examine the life cycles of harmful insects so that you can take action when they re most vulnerable. -6-

8 Limit your use of chemical pesticides. First, consider integrated pest management (IPM) practices. In a balanced, natural garden most diseases and harmful insects are kept in check and rarely pose a serious problem. Encourage natural pest predators to inhabit your garden; these include birds, ladybugs, lacewings, toads, preying mantis and, yes, snakes. A variety of flowering plants is essential to attracting many beneficial insects such as butterflies and bees. Remove pest eggs, larvae and cocoons by hand. Good sanitation in the fall means fewer pests in the spring. Where use of pesticides is necessary, look for less toxic products such as biological agents (e.g., Bacillus thuringiensis or B.t.), horticultural superior oil sprays, insecticidal soaps and soap solutions (mix 2.5 T liquid soap with 2/5 T cooking oil and 1 gallon water), boric acid, dehydrating dusts (diatomaceous earth and silica gel) and insect growth regulators which interrupt the pests reproductive cycles. For more severe infestations, use pyrethrin-based insecticides. Follow directionscarefully, use adequate protective gear and apply only away from water bodies, when winds are calm and rain not forecasted. Buy pesticides only in smallest quantity necessary and store carefully in labeled, air-tight containers. Use proper gear and extreme caution when mixing and applying. Don t wash down spills, but rather, blot with absorbent material and dispose of in a strong plastic bag. Spilled or excess pesticides should be disposed of only at hazardous waste drop-off locations, never in household trash or down drains, sewers. When buying fertilizer, consider slow. release products (e.g., fish emulsion) as they minimize excess nitrogen runoff. -7-

9 Finally, remember that even when used sparingly and cautiously, pesticides can and do get into nature s food chain and while they may not be harmful to your plants, they may harm wildlife and impair our health. Learn to accept minor damage from disease and insects as being part of the natural cycle. THE CUMULATIVE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF EACH OF OUR GARDENING PRACTICES IS QUITE SIGNIFICANT. PLEASE DO YOUR PART TO BE MORE ENVIRONMENTALLY-FRIENDLY, THEN GO A STEP FURTHERAND ENCOURAGE YOUR FRIENDS AND NEIGHBORS TO DO THE SAME. IT WILL TAKE ALL OF US WORKING TOGETHER TO MAKE THIS A CLEANER, HEALTHIER ENVIRONMENT. Please practice pollution prevention by sharing this brochure with others when you are finished with it. Thank you

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