HOW TO USE THIS TOOLKIT

Transcription

1 DROUGHT HOW TO USE THIS TOOLKIT The Center for Landscape Conservation and Ecology compiled UF/IFAS, water management district, and DEP public information to create these Florida-friendly drought materials for you. They re written for use on the web, but can be adapted to any media. These materials have been reviewed and approved by UF/IFAS Extension state specialists. You can run them as-is or revise them to suit your needs. If you revise them, you might want to check with your water management district to confirm accuracy for your area. Use them in your newsletter, on your website, in your newspaper column, or as a handout at your county Extension office. Just be sure to credit University of Florida/IFAS Center for Landscape Conservation and Ecology for the information. Because not all areas of the state are considered to be in a state of drought, some of these materials are for homeowners who face severe water shortages, some for those who want to save money, and some for everyone in between. And remember, conservation is just as important in areas where there isn t a drought! WHAT S IN THE TOOLKIT: 16 Articles available in 2 formats Web articles located on Gardening Solutions PDFs formatted within UF/IFAS graphic guidelines IDEAS FOR USING MATERIALS You may have contacts with local media, or you may be wondering who to call. You can always call IFAS Communications for ideas about contacting the media. Or you can try some of the following tactics: 9 radio PSA scripts Feature these articles on social media Available in :30 and :60 formats or call your local gardening editor ARTICLES 1. What is Drought? 2. Setting Your Irrigation Controller 3. Ten Ways to Save Water 4. Saving Water Using Your Irrigation System 5. Dealing with Water Restrictions 6. Capturing Water with Rain Barrels 7. Improving Your Lawn s Drought Tolerance 8. Irrigation System Maintenance 9. Lawn Management During a Drought 10. All About Water Restrictions 11. A Better Lawn on Less Water 12. Providing Water to Wildlife 13. Planning Your Landscape to Conserve Water 14. Firewise Landscaping 15. Wildfire Risks 16. Tree Care During a Drought Call your local talk radio or NPR station Contact your utility company s marketing department to see if you can have material placed in their newsletters/mailing inserts Check with your weekly and monthly newspapers. They re usually willing to place content. Check organizations for useful local newsletters and Web sites Community clubs garden clubs, women s clubs, service clubs, etc. City or county parks and recreation divisions Chambers of commerce Homeowners associations WE RE HAPPY TO HELP If you have questions, please contact us concerning these materials.

2

3 DROUGHT SETTING YOUR IRRIGATION CONTROLLER When water restrictions are in place, it s best to shut off your automatic landscape irrigation controller and run the system manually. Only turn on the system when the grass shows at least one of the three wilt signs. But if you choose to use the automatic setting, follow the simple tips below to conserve water. DAYS OF THE WEEK TO RUN You can set your controller to irrigate every day, every other day, every three days, and so on. Most controllers offer a custom option that allows you to select certain days of the week to water, which is the option that should be used during watering restrictions. Make sure to check with your water management district or municipalities for local watering restrictions. PROGRAMMING YOUR CONTROLLER You can set your controller to water each irrigation zone for a specific amount of time, depending on your system application rate. This information can be found in Operation of Residential Irrigation Controllers. Controllers typically have the capacity to run multiple programs. This means that your irrigation controller can be set to water different parts (zones) of your home landscape at different rates. For example, program A might have the controller set to water six rotor zones for sixty minutes twice each week. If new plants are planted in a landscape bed, they may need more frequent watering until they are established. In such a case, a second program, B, can be used to water that zone every day of the week (water restrictions permitting). For your normal, weekly 2-day maintenance watering, only one program is necessary. In that case, it s a good idea to verify that other programs are not running. AMOUNT OF WATER MICROIRRIGATION ZONES Many factors determine how much water you should apply. You should adjust your controller at least seasonally. For example, irrigation can be cut back during the rainy summer and colder winter months, particularly in North and Central Florida, where lawns and landscape plants go dormant. You should never water to the point of runoff (excess water that your grass s roots can t absorb), as this wastes water, may cause disease, and can contribute to pollution. However, no less than a 1/2 inch of water should be applied at any one time. Deeper, less-frequent watering promotes deep root growth, which contributes to a healthy lawn and landscape capable of surviving dry spells. For specific information on run times for your irrigation system, see this urban irrigation tool. Microirrigation systems (sometimes called drip or low-volume irrigation systems) are becoming popular for landscape plants because they are easy to use and can conserve a lot of water. There are several types of microirrigation systems; all deliver water directly to a plant s roots, so that less water is lost to evaporation. Microirrigation systems can be easy to install and can save a homeowner money while keeping landscape plants healthy. RUN TIME

4

5 DROUGHT TEN WAYS TO SAVE WATER Water is the lifeblood of all plants, including turfgrass. But many Florida homeowners aren t aware that watering their lawns too much can be as damaging as not watering enough. These ten Florida-Friendly tips will help you save water in your landscape. 1. Choose the right plant for the right place All plants must get the right amount of sun, water, and nutrients to thrive even natives. Select plants suited for your area Place plants in the landscape where site conditions match their needs Group plants with similar water needs together 2. Water thoughtfully A drop here and a drop there can add up to a lot of water. Always follow water restrictions Water early in the morning Irrigate plants and grass only when they start to wilt 3. Handwater when possible Handwatering is usually allowed during water restrictions, because it uses less water than an automatic irrigation system. Use a watering can, pail, or hose with an automatic shutoff nozzle Handwater potted plants, shrubs, trees, vegetables, flower beds, and new lawns See if your water management district (WMD) limits Handwatering 4. Perform regular irrigation maintenance An irrigation system is only as efficient as it s maintained to be. Check for and repair leaks Unclog and replace broken heads Point heads at plants, not driveways and sidewalks 5. Calibrate irrigation system Even an efficient irrigation system can waste water if it s left on for too long. The ideal amount of water to apply is 1/2 to 3/4 inches. Figure out how long to run your system by doing a test: Place multiple coffee/tuna/other straight-sided cans throughout each irrigation zone Run your system for thirty minutes Average the depth of the water in all the containers Multiply running time as needed for 1/2 to 3/4 inches of water 6. Make a rain barrel Rain barrels capture rainwater that flows off your roof for use in the landscape. They re easy and inexpensive to make and can have a big impact on your water bill instead of watering your plants with water you re paying for, you re using free water! 7. Use microirrigation Drip or microspray irrigation systems apply water directly to the roots of plants, where it s needed, and lose minimal water to evaporation or wind drift. 8. Mulch plants Mulch helps keep moisture in the soil around your plants. Choose from many different kinds of mulch and apply 2 to 3 inches around trees, shrubs, flowers, and vegetables. 9. Mow correctly How you mow your lawn can have a big impact on how much water it needs. Mow high; Mowing your grass to the highest recommended length encourages a deep healthy root system Keep your mower blades sharp; dull cuts make grass more disease-prone Cut no more than one third of the leaf blade each time you mow 10. Be a weather watcher Rain is irrigation, too. Use it to your advantage it s free! Don t water your landscape if it s rained in the past twenty-four hours If rain is forecast in the next forty-eight hours, hold off on irrigating Purchase a rain gauge to track how much rain your plants are getting Install a rain shut-off device to override your irrigation system when it s raining

6

7 DROUGHT SAVING WATER USING YOUR IRRIGATION SYSTEM Water is becoming an increasingly scarce natural resource, and it should be used as efficiently as possible. Knowing the amount of water your sprinkler system applies to your lawn is an important step in efficient water use. WHAT ARE IRRIGATION ZONES? amount of rain has fallen, and they make sure your automatic irrigation system doesn t run when it s not needed. An automatic, underground irrigation system breaks down the job of watering your lawn into smaller areas called zones. Each of these zones covers a specific area of your yard. Usually there are four or more zones per lawn. All irrigation systems are required by law to include a rain or soil moisture sensor. Your sensors should always be functioning correctly, so check them regularly. Irrigation systems should be zoned separately for turf and ornamental plants, since water requirements differ for the two. This should be fairly straightforward if you have planting beds. Ornamental plants should be grouped according to their water requirements: water-loving plants should be grouped separately from drought-tolerant plants. This allows for the proper amount of water to be distributed to the plants as they need it. WHAT DO I NEED FOR AN AUTOMATIC SPRINKLER SYSTEM? An automatic sprinkler system consists of two basic components: a controller and an irrigation shut-off device (a rain sensor or a soil-moisture sensor, more likely the former). A controller is a timing device that controls the frequency and length of time that the system runs. A rain sensor prevents unnecessary irrigation during and soon after a rainfall. Soil-moisture sensors prevent unnecessary irrigation if there is sufficient moisture in the soil. Rain sensors, which are required by law on all irrigation systems, are available in several models and are usually connected to the automatic irrigation system remotely or by wiring. The device interrupts a scheduled or occurring irrigation after a certain amount of rainfall has occurred. A soil-moisture sensor overrides a scheduled irrigation event if adequate moisture is in the soil. WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF IRRIGATION SHUT-OFF DEVICES? Irrigation shut-off devices like rain sensors are a low-cost way to save water in your landscape. These devices detect when a certain Rain sensors conserve water, save you money, and reduce wear on your irrigation system. They can also help prevent turf disease and other problems caused by excess moisture. While rain sensors react only to rainfall, soil moisture sensors can still be useful in times of drought by detecting excess irrigation and limiting irrigation cycles accordingly. Read Residential Irrigation System Rainfall Shut-off Devices for further information. WHAT DOES CALIBRATING MY SPRINKLER SYSTEM MEAN? Calibrating your sprinkler system means figuring out how long you need to run the system to apply the correct amount of water. For most Florida soils, the correct amount is 1/2 to 3/4 inches of water. This rate varies depending on your location in the state. Heavier clay soils, such as in North Florida and the panhandle, may only need the 1/2-inch amount. In sandy soil, which doesn t hold water as long, you may need to apply the 3/4-inch amount. HOW DO I CALIBRATE MY SYSTEM? Read Calibrating Your Irrigation System for instructions on calibrating your system. HOW DO I PROGRAM MY IRRIGATION CONTROLLER? For instructions on how to program your system, see Setting Your Irrigation Controller.

8 UF/IFAS CLEC SAVING WATER USING YOUR IRRIGATION SYSTEM WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO IRRIGATE? Early morning is the best time to irrigate (4 a.m. to 8 a.m.). It is cool enough for water to soak into the soil and be absorbed by roots, but it will soon be warm enough for excess moisture to evaporate off the leaf blades. Water that remains on the blades for long periods of time can actually cause turf diseases, so irrigating at night is not a good idea. However, if you cannot irrigate at the ideal time, it s better to irrigate at night than between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Irrigating during this time will waste water because most of it will evaporate without reaching the roots.

9 DROUGHT RESTRICTIONS During a drought or water shortage, or when conditions indicate a drought may be imminent, Florida s water management districts have the authority to restrict water use in home landscapes. Find out what water restrictions are in place in your community. For more information, see All about Water Restrictions. Always follow water restrictions! They describe how many days a week you can water your landscape, and often which days and times of day, as well. These restrictions ensure that all of us have enough water. There can be exceptions in the water restrictions for edible plants and newly installed landscapes. Read and understand the restrictions clearly and, when in doubt, contact your local water authority or water management district. Florida s sandy soils mean that plants may experience drought stress after only a few days without rain or irrigation. So how do you keep your plants alive while following your water management district s watering schedule? Follow these guidelines. Establish priorities. If you have high-maintenance and droughtsensitive plants, water them first. Grass should be a lower priority it can be trained to be fairly drought-tolerant (especially bahiagrass and centipedegrass), and is cheaper to replace than trees and shrubs. Consider replacing drought-sensitive plants with more droughttolerant species. Choosing drought-tolerant plants when replacing For Watering Turf Information Lawn Management during Drought plants or adding new plants to the landscape can help you save money and conserve water. Mulch planting beds and areas around trees and shrubs. Mulching helps the soil retain moisture, moderate soil temperature, and keep weeds down. The mulch should be about 3 inches deep. Turn off automatic irrigation systems during cool winter weather and rainy summer weather. Run your irrigation system only when your landscape really needs the water. Handwater when possible, or consider using drip irrigation. (The water management districts do not restrict the use of drip irrigation and other types of microirrigation, at least in non-lawn landscapes.) Irrigate plants only when they need it (drooping leaves or a change in leaf color are good indicators). Many trees and shrubs can survive drought without irrigation, provided they are well-established and were healthy prior to the drought. Water in the morning so less moisture is lost to evaporation. Examine your irrigation system and repair leaks promptly. Don t fertilize or, if you do, use low nitrogen and low phosphorus fertilizers. Fertilization stimulates growth and increases water needs. Avoid unnecessary applications of pesticides that require watering in you can almost certainly find pesticides that work without added water. Shade. Move container plants to shaded areas to reduce their water needs.

10

11 DROUGHT CAPTURING WATER WITH RAIN BARRELS A great Florida-friendly way to save water and money on your water bill is to build or purchase a rain barrel. A rain barrel captures rainwater, which can then be used to water ornamental plants. BENEFITS OF RAIN BARRELS HOW DOES IT WORK? Much of the rain we get in Florida comes in the summer. But wouldn t it be great if you could save some of that rain for other times of the year? Rain that lands on your roof and flows off through storm gutters and drains is funneled into the rain barrel through a hole in its lid, where the water sits until you need to use it. You fill a watering can or connect a hose through a valve/boiler drain/spigot near the bottom of the barrel. The great thing about rain barrels is that you can save some water for dry times. And because you re not getting the water from the public water system, you can use your rain barrel to water whenever you want including when your area is under water restrictions. Installing a spigot on a rain barrel makes it easy to fill a watering can for handwatering plants. Your rain barrel can also be hooked up to seep irrigation systems. They can (and should) be made mosquitoproof with a tight-fitting lid and/or mesh screen, and can be painted or hidden by foliage or a trellis to make them more attractive. Rain barrels can capture a significant amount of water, and can have a very tangible effect on your water bill. Best of all, they re fairly easy to find in stores and to make! RAIN BARREL CONSTRUCTION Rain barrels are generally 50- to 80-gallon containers fitted with a fine mesh screen to keep out leaves, insects, and other potential contaminants and a tap/boiler drain/spigot or small pump for distributing the water. They re generally attached to a downspout to capture rainwater that lands on the roof, and can range from fairly simple and cheap to pretty complex and expensive. Rain barrels can also be placed beneath two sections of your roof that form a V, so gutters are not required. There s a lot of information online about building a rain barrel system for your home. You can purchase a rain barrel from many garden centers and large home improvement centers. If you can find the container, you can modify it yourself. Use only a food-grade drum used to carry juice, olives, pickles, etc. be sure that it has never been used to store chemicals. Or you can contact your county Extension office. Many county Extension offices offer free workshops about using rain barrels, offering the containers to participants for free or a small fee. For every inch of rain that falls on 1,000 square feet of roof area, about 600 gallons of rainwater can be collected. Your roof area is equal to the total square feet of your house plus the extension of your eaves. Of course, you won t be able to capture every single drop that falls onto your house. Anywhere from 10 to 30 percent of the rainwater that hits your roof may be lost to evaporation, the wind, and gutter spillage. And your rain barrel could simply fill up before it stops raining! (You may want to install more than one around your house.) HOW TO USE YOUR RAIN BARREL Always keep your rain barrel covered, to keep out mosquitoes, leaves, and other intruders. Before you install it, think about how you ll use the water in it. Will you handwater? If so, you ll just need a tap near the bottom to fill up your watering can and you may want to elevate the barrel to more easily access the spigot. If you plan to water planting beds, you may want to set up some kind of seep irrigation system that draws water from the barrel. Monitor your rain barrel regularly for overflow. If you re away from home for an extended period of time, a heavy rain could cause overflow, which could possibly lead to damage to the foundation of your home or other problems. To avoid this, you can disconnect the downspout from the rain barrel and cover the screen on top of the barrel, but a better practice would be to install an overflow valve/connection at the top of rain barrel to eliminate the issue and decrease erosion. Do not use rain water captured from a roof structure on edible plants because of the chemicals in roofing materials. If you live in a deed-restricted community, review the restrictions before making changes in your yard.

12

13 DROUGHT IMPROVING YOUR LAWN S DROUGHT TOLERANCE Drought tolerance is a measure of how well your grass will survive dry spells. There are some simple management practices that can help improve the drought tolerance of whatever turfgrass species you have on your home lawn. WHY IMPROVE DROUGHT TOLERANCE? The primary objective of improving drought tolerance is to grow a quality lawn that will survive drought periods with little or no supplemental irrigation (watering by hose or sprinkler system). A lawn properly prepared to survive a drought will have a deep and extensive root system. These management practices will help train your grass s roots to grow deep. IRRIGATION Less frequent, longer irrigations will help establish a deeper root system. Many homeowners rely on automatic sprinkler systems to apply small amounts of water several times weekly, regardless of rainfall. This is actually detrimental because frequent irrigation encourages roots to stay only in the top few inches of the soil, resulting in roots unable to find water deeper in the soil during dry spells. To develop a deep root system, water your lawn only when 30 to 50 percent of it shows at least one of the three wilt signs. The three signs of wilt are folding leaf blades, blue-gray color, and footprints remaining in grass. When you do water, apply 1/2 to 3/4 inches. For sandier soils, which do not hold water well, the 3/4-inch rate may be necessary. For heavier clay soils in North Florida and the panhandle, the 1/2-inch rate may be sufficient. The idea is to get water to your grass s roots without drowning your grass or creating runoff (excess water that your grass cannot absorb). Once you have watered your lawn, hold off watering again until a portion of it shows one or more of the wilt signs. Do not irrigate to the point of runoff, where the soil is no longer able to absorb water and it flows on top of the ground or pavement. This only wastes water and does nothing for your landscape. MOWING Always mow at the highest recommended height for your turf species. This increases leaf area, allowing for more photosynthesis, the process by which plants make carbohydrates that they store to help them survive stresses like drought. The higher the mowing height, the deeper and more extensive the root system will be. Never cut more than one-third of the leaf blade at any time. You may be able to reduce your mowing frequency since the grass will grow more slowly during drought. Be sure to keep your mower blades sharp. A sharp blade makes a cleaner cut that heals faster and stresses the grass less than one made with a dull blade. FERTILIZATION Fertilization during drought should be reduced or postponed. Nitrogen fertilization encourages grass to put its energy into growing shoots rather than roots. This both prevents the grass from developing the deep root system it needs to survive and creates new grass blades that will suffer the effects of drought. PEST CONTROL A healthy, vigorously growing turfgrass is the best defense against weeds and pests, so try to keep your lawn healthy by following homeowner best management practices. Pesticide applications should always follow the label in order to avoid harming the plants, animals, or the environment. Especially in times of drought, it is best to spot-treat only those small areas that might be affected by a pest. The irrigation, mowing, and fertilization practices outlined above will reduce the need for pest control measures. If a pest problem is diagnosed, it should be promptly treated by following recommendations from your county Extension office. Spot-treating (treating individual areas by hand) is usually effective and is safer for drought-stressed grass than treating the entire lawn.

14 UF/IFAS CLEC IMPROVING YOUR LAWN S DROUGHT TOLERANCE ALTERNATIVES TO TURFGRASS Sometimes turf is planted where it cannot survive long term narrow strips along hardscapes, shaded sites, or areas with very poor soil conditions. Alternatives to turf should be considered in such cases. Mulched beds or groundcovers, such as trailing evergreen plants like ivy or Asiatic jasmine, may be more suitable. In any case, choose plants that are hardy and do not require supplemental irrigation. Consult your county Extension office for suggestions on groundcovers that grow best in your area.

15 DROUGHT IRRIGATION SYSTEM MAINTENANCE Even the best irrigation system can waste water if it is run too long or operated incorrectly. You might be able to save water by regularly maintaining your irrigation system. TEST & REPAIR CALIBRATE Test your irrigation system periodically to make sure it s operating correctly. It doesn t matter when you do it, but you may want to schedule a time of year, like when the time changes in the spring and fall, to make sure it doesn t slip your mind. You may also want to calibrate your sprinkler system to determine how much water your system is applying in a given amount of time. Many times, we re over- or under-watering our lawns without knowing it. Calibration is an easy process that can be done by anyone. Make sure that all the sprinkler heads are working, and unclog or replace heads that are malfunctioning, broken, or missing. Clogged nozzles can cause dry spots in the landscape, but can often be cleaned in no time at all. Leaking lines should be repaired and old nozzles with warped spray patterns should be replaced. ADJUST HEADS Heads can be moved by collisions with feet and lawnmowers, so check them all frequently for alignment. Adjust heads so they re watering only your landscape not sidewalks, streets, or driveways. Sprinkler heads aimed at these surfaces waste money and water. It s easy to twist a spray head stem, aligning the nozzle pattern with the plants it s meant to irrigate. Adjust sprinkler heads to be at right angles to the soil surface. Tilted heads throw more water to one side, causing dry spots. Make sure heads pop up above the turfgrass canopy. It is not uncommon to have to raise heads a couple of times a year. SET CONTROLLER Set your controller (also called a clock or timer) to water only as much as plants need. Different plants have different water needs, so make sure you know how much water they should be getting before setting the controller. Change your controller settings with the seasons so you re watering with the correct frequency. Plants tend to need less water during cooler weather, when their growth has slowed and water evaporates more slowly. Consider turning the controller off during the summer rainy season. For more information, read Operation of Residential Irrigation Controllers. 1. Gather five to ten coffee cans, tuna cans, jars, or other straightsided containers; these will catch irrigation water. Containers that are 3 to 6 inches in diameter work best. a. If you have an in-ground system, place the containers in one zone at a time, scattering the cans randomly throughout the zone. (You ll need to repeat this procedure in each zone.) b. If you use a hose-end sprinkler to water your turf, place the containers in a straight line from the sprinkler to the edge of the watering pattern. Space the containers evenly. 2. Turn the water on long enough to get at least 1/4 in most of the containers (at least 15 minutes for spray heads and at least 30 minutes for rotors). 3. Use a ruler to measure the depth of water in each container. The more precise the measurement, the better your calibration will be. Measurements to the nearest 1/8 of an inch should be adequate. 4. Find the average depth of water collected in the containers by adding up the depths and dividing by the number of containers. 5. To determine the irrigation rate in inches per hour, divide minutes of run time by 60 to convert minutes to hours and then divide average inches by hours. Now that you know your sprinkler system irrigation rate, you can apply water to your turf more efficiently. For example, if your sprinkler system applies water at the rate of 2 inches per hour (or a 1/2 inch per fifteen minutes) and your grass needs up to 3/4 inches of water, then you would need to run your sprinklers about twentythree minutes (0.75 inch/2 inch per hour = hr * 60 = 22.5 min). REPEAT Regular irrigation system maintenance will save you money in water bills and in large repairs that result from neglecting the system. Use these tips as a guide to worry-free irrigation!

16

17 DROUGHT LAWN MANAGEMENT DURING DROUGHT Florida homeowners can maintain healthy lawns during times of drought or water shortage, even when water management districts (WMDs) impose mandatory water restrictions. Most turf damage is actually caused by over-watering, and, in general, watering restrictions provide for sufficient irrigation of most lawngrasses. Here are some simple maintenance practices you can use to help your lawn best survive periods of drought. MOW HIGH WATER UNIFORMLY Grass grows more slowly when there s less water available. So you ll typically mow less during a drought or water shortage. Some irrigation systems are improperly designed and don t distribute irrigation water evenly. The dry areas they can create (parts of the lawn not receiving enough water) are especially obvious during a drought, when rainfall isn t masking the problem. Place shallow cans in the bad and good areas of your lawn to determine how evenly your system is distributing water. See Calibrating Your Irrigation System for more information. When you do mow, always mow at the highest recommended height for your grass species. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade at any one mowing, as this will stress the drought-stressed grass further. Higher mowing encourages deeper rooting, one of the key mechanisms of drought tolerance. SHARPEN MOWER BLADES Sharp mower blades make a clean cut on the grass. These cuts heal faster and stress the grass less than a cut made with a dull blade. Mow your lawn when the grass is dry, so that cut grass does not stick to the mower blade and prevent it from making the cleanest possible cut. WATER THE RIGHT AMOUNT In many cases, lawns can survive when prolonged droughts occur on irrigation of only one to two days per week if 1/2 to 3/4 inches of water is applied each time. But water only when you see the signs of turf wilt - leaf blades are folded in half lengthwise, grass takes on a blue-gray tint, and footprints or tire tracks remain visible on the grass long after they are made. Never irrigate to the point of runoff. Runoff is water that the roots cannot absorb, which runs into storm drains and eventually into streams, lakes, and other bodies of water, or into groundwater, where our drinking water comes from. Runoff can carry lawn and roadway chemicals and pollutants, and wastes water. Irrigation run times should rarely exceed sixty minutes for rotary and impact sprinklers, or twenty minutes for spray heads. If irrigation run times exceed these guidelines, be sure your system is not applying more than 3/4 inches of water during a single watering. For more information on applying the right amount of water, see Saving Water Using Your Irrigation System. If your system is not applying water uniformly, contact a qualified irrigation contractor to make any necessary repairs, or try turning or unclogging the sprinkler heads. WATER EARLY IN THE MORNING Irrigate early in the morning, preferably between 4 a.m. and 8 a.m., so that grass blades will dry off quickly at sunrise. Extended wet periods can cause turf disease, so watering late in the day or at night is not a good idea. Irrigating between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. is also not recommended. This will waste water, because the water will evaporate before it can soak into the soil and be absorbed by the roots. POSTPONE OR REDUCE FERTILIZER APPLICATIONS Grass is more stressed during droughts and water shortages. The last thing you want your grass to do under water management restrictions is to grow more. Hold off on fertilizing until the drought or water shortage has passed. Take note that many fertilizers have a high salt content that can actually burn grass. Some homeowners choose to apply a soluble iron formula to green up their lawn, but the resulting color will not last long. Lawn care professionals have a wider selection of fertilizer materials and application methods available to them than the average homeowner, and they may continue to apply fertilizers at low rates through a dry period.

18 UF/IFAS CLEC POSTPONE HERBICIDE APPLICATIONS Herbicides weed killers can stress a healthy lawn even at the best of times. During a drought or water shortage, that stress can limit turf health and reduce the turf s ability to compete with weeds. So put off your herbicide applications until the drought or water shortage is over. SPOT-TREAT LAWN PESTS, ONLY IF NEEDED Pesticides chemicals that fight insects and other pests should be applied only as needed. Spot-treat affected areas, not the entire lawn. These chemicals can damage drought-stressed grass. Always make sure you know what pest you have before embarking on a treatment plan, and always follow label directions. The label is the law. LAWN MANAGEMENT DURING DROUGHT CONSIDER USING A MORE DROUGHT-TOLERANT TURF SPECIES Bahiagrass and centipedegrass have better drought tolerance than other turfgrasses. Although these grasses may turn brown during a drought, they are more likely to resume growth and turn green again when rain or irrigation resume.

19 DROUGHT ALL ABOUT WATER RESTRICTIONS About half of the water Floridians use at home goes to our landscapes. When water shortages in Florida become serious, the state s five water management districts often limit the number of days homeowners can water their landscapes. WHAT ARE WATER MANAGEMENT DISTRICTS? HOW DO I KNOW IF I HAVE WATER RESTRICTIONS? Florida s five water management districts (WMDs) are state agencies that manage and protect our water resources on a regional basis. In dry times, the water restrictions your WMD issues should be followed exactly, as they ensure that there s enough water for everyone. To figure out what WMD you live in, visit the Florida Department of Environmental Protection Water Management Districts web page. WHAT ARE WATER RESTRICTIONS? A WMD issues water restrictions when the water supply for that region may be endangered. To prevent severe shortages, lawn and landscape water restrictions are issued. Some WMDs have yearround water restrictions, whatever the weather conditions. Water restrictions apply to everyone in a WMD, regardless of income, location, lot size, or water source. Restrictions usually limit watering with a sprinkler or irrigation system to certain times on certain days of the week. These times and days may be different depending on your house number, neighborhood, or side of the street. Water restrictions in your area may also be called irrigation schedules. If you live in Florida, chances are your area will experience water restrictions during dry months and perhaps year-round. Recent years have been extremely dry, and with the constant influx of new people to the state, the aquifer system that supplies most of our water is increasingly taxed, with less rainwater returning to refill it. Northwest Florida WMD Suwannee River WMD St. Johns River WMD Southwest Florida WMD South Florida WMD Source: Florida Department of Environmental Protection. The best way to find out if your area currently has water restrictions is to visit your water management district s web site: St. Johns River Water Management District Southwest Florida Water Management District South Florida Water Management District Suwannee River Water Management District Northwest Florida Water Management District

20

21 DROUGHT A BETTER LAWN ON LESS WATER Proper irrigation is often key to a healthy, attractive lawn. Generally irrigation is provided through an in-ground, automated sprinkler system. However, the improper operation of automatic irrigation systems can waste water, reduce fertilizer longevity, and promote disease incidence when too much water is applied. Your automatic system, typically composed of a controller and an irrigation shutoff device (a rain sensor or a soil-moisture sensor), should not be operated on a fixed schedule. Rather, you should turn the irrigation controller to the off setting and water only as needed. Watering as needed means waiting to water until 30 to 50 percent of your lawn shows at least one of the three wilt symptoms. These are: folding leaf blades, blue-gray color, and footprints remaining visible in grass. The key to watering as needed is your irrigation controller. Your controller is the brain of your irrigation system, but it only does what you tell it. Rather than running your system on a set schedule, regardless of rainfall, take control of your system and irrigate only as needed to conserve water and keep your lawn healthy. HOW YOUR CONTROLLER WORKS Your controller the brain of your irrigation system hangs on the garage or utility room wall and tells your system when to come on and how long to run. Newer controllers are usually easy to set. They typically come with simple instructions on an attached label. Look for details on your model and read all the instructions carefully. After setting the current day and time, there are really only three things the controller needs to be told: What day(s) to water What time to begin How long each irrigation zone should be watered (You can get further details by reading the EDIS publication, Operation of Residential Irrigation Controllers. ) WHAT IS AN IRRIGATION ZONE? An automatic, underground irrigation system typically waters the landscape in small, separate areas called zones. The water to each irrigation zone goes through its own electrically operated valve. A buried signal wire runs from the irrigation controller to each valve. WHAT DAY(S) TO WATER Your water management district (WMD) and local ordinances dictate which day(s) of the week you are allowed to water. Usually the schedule is determined by your street address. Water restriction information may be found in your local newspaper, or you can contact your WMD or local water utility department for specifics. For optimum water use efficiency, set the irrigation controller to off. Set it only for automatic when you have determined, by looking at your lawn, that irrigation is needed and no rain is expected. You can also set the controller on automatic when you ll be away from home for extended periods of time. The setting for what days to water should correspond with your allowed watering days. This way, when you do switch the controller to automatic, your irrigation will occur on an allowed day. WHAT TIME TO BEGIN The best time to irrigate is in the early morning hours, from 4 a.m. until 8 a.m. Sunlight and wind evaporate less water during these hours, so you increase the efficiency of your watering. If you are unable to irrigate during these times, try to irrigate during the night. Designated times for watering may vary slightly, so check with your WMD for advice on what times of day are allowed or recommended. HOW LONG EACH ZONE SHOULD RUN Each irrigation zone s run time should be determined individually. You want the controller to run the system long enough to put 1/2 to 3/4 inches of water in each zone. Generally, every zone will require a different amount of time. Spray-type heads require about onefourth the amount of time compared to rotor-type heads. For sandier soils, the 3/4-inch rate may be required. For heavier clay soils, as in North Florida and the panhandle, you may only need to use the 1/2-inch rate. Controller settings are in minutes, not inches of water. So how do you figure out how long to run the system to get each zone

22 UF/IFAS CLEC the appropriate amount of water? The answer is to calibrate your irrigation system, zone by zone. For specific details on irrigation system calibration, see Saving Water With Your Irrigation System. IRRIGATION SHUT-OFF DEVICES Irrigation shut-off devices (either rain sensors or soil-moisture sensors) have been required by Florida law on all irrigation systems installed since Some counties require them on all automatic irrigation systems, regardless of when they were installed. They are inexpensive and can save a lot of water. Be sure you purchase one and install it as part of your irrigation system if it s not already included. Usually it is sold separately from the controller. If you are using a rain sensor, which are more common than soilmoisture sensors for home lawn irrigation systems, it should be positioned on the roof or rain gutter with open sky above it. It is wired into the controller and will interrupt scheduled irrigation if sufficient rain falls. Many soil-moisture sensors are now wireless. It will also keep the system turned off for a preset dry down time in which no irrigation is applied. A BETTER LAWN ON LESS WATER ADJUST AND MAINTAIN YOUR RAIN SENSOR Set the sensor to stop operation after 1/2 3/4 inches of rain has fallen. Fully open the dry down vent to prevent the system coming on again quickly. The dry down time is how long the system stays off once the rain sensor has interrupted irrigation. Your sensor s instruction sheet will give details on how to make these settings. Make sure your sensor is operating properly by checking it every month during the rainy summer season and quarterly the rest of the year. A simple method for checking is to pour or spray a small amount of water over the rain sensor while the irrigation system is operating. Irrigation in all zones should stop soon thereafter and remain off for at least a couple of days. The controller panel may appear to still be on and operating, in spite of the overriding action of the rain sensor switch. Some controllers have a corresponding on-off rain switch control on the panel. On these models, the control should be set to activate the rain sensor. For more information, see Residential Irrigation System Rainfall Shutoff Devices.

23 DROUGHT PROVIDING WATER TO WILDLIFE Surface water sources such as puddles, raindrops on leaves, and dew on grass provide much of the water used by wildlife. Animals also get water from the foods they eat. But clean, fresh water that s accessible to wildlife can often be hard to find, especially during a drought. Birdbaths and small ponds are excellent ways to provide water for animals. And they can beautify your Florida-friendly landscape, as well. BIRDBATHS Birdbaths are the most popular way to provide water for wildlife. They can be homemade or commercial models. Birdbaths should be placed so that predators can t sneak up on unsuspecting users. Keeping brush cover nearby offers protection and perches where birds can preen. Just be sure not to have low shrubbery too close cats will use it for ambushes. In general, the lower the birdbath, the more open space there should be around it. Birds prefer baths with textured bottoms for firm footing. You can cover smooth bottoms with pebbles or sand. Water in a birdbath should be no deeper than two to three inches in the middle, and the sides of the bath should slope gently so birds can easily climb in and out. Birdbaths are available in materials as varied as concrete, terracotta, and plastic. Concrete models are expensive and cumbersome, but provide excellent footing for birds and will not budge in severe weather. A plastic birdbath may need to be secured against strong winds. Keep the water in birdbaths clean and consistently available. Don t use bleach or other chemicals to clean your birdbath. Scrub it with a textured sponge every few days to remove algae. BUTTERFLY WATERING STATIONS Butterflies have special requirements for drinking. They take in liquids through their proboscis, a long, hollow tube that is sort of a modified tongue. These insects are often seen puddling, or gathering at damp, sunny spots, where they draw moisture from mud or sand. Butterflies are incapable of drinking freestanding water, such as in a birdbath. Use a coffee can or similar container to make a butterfly watering station. Put several inches of clean sand or earth in the bottom, sink it into the ground, and fill it with water. Place rocks in the middle and at the sides for use as landing pads. Change the water regularly to keep mosquitoes from breeding there. PONDS AND POOLS A garden pond can attract a variety of wildlife. One with aquatic plants as well as vegetation around its edges is ideal. Animals that might be attracted to your garden pond include turtles, frogs, birds, snakes, lizards, and raccoons. You can create a pond with a rubber liner, pre-formed pond, or a large tub materials readily found at most garden centers. There are many easy-to-grow water plants; make sure you choose ones that will thrive in the light conditions and size of your pond. Consider incorporating koi or goldfish into your pond but if you expect wildlife, make sure you create hiding places for the fish and don t get too attached to them! Make a small watering hole in your yard for animals. You ll be rewarded with fascinating sights and beautiful sounds, and you ll help them survive dry times!

24

25 DROUGHT PLANNING YOUR LANDSCAPE TO CONSERVE WATER Water conservation is especially on people s minds during dry periods, but it s important all the time. One way you can save water is by selecting Florida-Friendly plants that suit your site. This principle is called right plant, right place. By selecting plants whose needs match the conditions of your Florida-Friendly landscape, you ll save yourself money and effort. MATCHMAKING OVERPLANTING Putting the right plant in the right place involves more than placing a sun-loving plant in a sunny spot or a shade-lover in a shady spot. You also need to consider other site conditions such as soil ph and plant needs like water. A newly planted landscape often looks somewhat sparser than anticipated. Be patient plants are usually planted when they re young and smaller than their ultimate full-grown size. It s a common but costly mistake to overplant the landscape to make it seem fuller right away. The problem is that when plants mature, they ll be too close together, and will end up competing for water and sunlight. The landscape will look overcrowded, and frequent pruning will be required. Make sure you know the mature size of the plants you purchase, and give them the space they need. DROUGHT-TOLERANT PLANTS These plants are adapted to regions with frequent drought, or to soils with low water-holding capacity. Once established, they can be water-wise additions to a landscape but not if they re planted in low-lying areas where water tends to pool. In these conditions, they can quickly succumb to root diseases and other pest problems. Drought-tolerant plants tend to thrive in elevated, dry or windy spots, exposed areas, along unshaded southern and western walls of buildings, and other hot, dry places. Save the low spots, wateradjacent areas, and places with poor drainage for plants that love moist conditions. GROUPING PLANTS It s common to see landscapes with woody plants (trees, shrubs, and certain groundcovers) planted randomly across an expanse of lawn. While this may be normal, it s not ideal. Turfgrass and woody ornamentals have different water (and other) needs, so it s easy to waste water in a landscape like this. You can conserve water and save money by grouping plants according to their water needs. If you have a zoned irrigation system, you ll be able to water different areas with different amounts. Limit the number of plants with high water needs, placing them for maximum visual impact. TURFGRASS For sunny, recreational areas, turfgrass is an excellent choice. But most grass types don t grow well in dense shade or on steep slopes. Instead of planting grass in these spots, try groundcovers. There are a wide variety of options, many of which can also offer a green carpet look. Fast-growing plants may sound appealing, but these kinds of plants require frequent pruning and usually more water than slowergrowing plants. Slow-growing plants may take longer to fill in your landscape, but they can ultimately be less work. USE MICROIRRIGATION WHERE APPROPRIATE Microirrigation, commonly referred to as drip or low-volume irrigation, offers a way to improve landscape quality while saving water. When designed and used correctly, this approach can improve the efficiency of landscape irrigation through the precise application of water. Microirrigation emitters have a maximum flow rate of 30 gallons per hour (gph), or 0.5 gallons per minute (gpm). In contrast, traditional spray and rotor sprinklers can apply water at a rate of over 3 gpm. REDUCE THE AREAS REQUIRING IRRIGATION Mulched landscape beds with drought-tolerant plants can conserve a significant amount of irrigation water per year. Use turf where functional and appropriate.

26 UF/IFAS CLEC PLANNING YOUR LANDSCAPE TO CONSERVE WATER WEEDS AND FERTILIZER Both weeds and fertilizer add to water needs in your landscape weeds because they drink up water your plants would otherwise get, and fertilizer because it causes your plants to grow more quickly, which can lead to a greater need for water. Fertilize only when necessary. In very dry times hold off on fertilizing your lawn and landscape plants. Keep your beds weed-free by handpulling them and adding 2 to 3 inches of mulch, which also helps soil retain moisture.

27 DROUGHT FIREWISE LANDSCAPING Wildfire is a risk in Florida anytime, but dry periods make fires even more likely, especially in wooded or rural areas. It s not hard to make your landscape less vulnerable to fire. Firewise landscaping incorporates fire safety into landscape design to reduce the risk of a wildfire damaging your home. DEFENSIBLE SPACE Creating an area of defensible space is one of the most important actions you can take to lessen the risk of wildfire to your home. Defensible space is a special area between natural areas (like woodlands) and your home. This space breaks up the continuity of plants, giving the house a better chance of surviving if fire comes near. Your defensible space should extend from your house outward at least 30 feet, and it should contain plants that are low in flammability (firewise plants). These plants can help reduce the likelihood that a fire will jump from wooded areas to your house. FIREWISE PLANTS Leaves and small branches, also called lightweight fuels, generally ignite easily and burn rapidly. Plants with thick, succulent leaves such as cacti, aloe, and century plants usually maintain high leaf moisture content and take longer to ignite. Small, needle-like leaves, like those on pines and cedars, are usually more flammable than wide, flat leaves, such as those on maples, oaks, and hickories. (The broad fronds of palms are exceptions to this rule, as they tend to have a relatively high flammability.) prevent this from happening should a wildfire approach your house, prune the lower branches of trees up to 10 feet off the ground. Keep tall trees away from the home and use short shrubs in foundation plantings. Groups of plantings should be separated by nonflammable areas, such as gravel, stepping stone pathways, or a well-maintained and healthy lawn. If you use mulch, try to limit it to an area of landscape more than 5 feet away from structures including decks. While mulch shouldn t be used directly surrounding your structures, when used more than 5 feet away from buildings it can help plants conserve moisture which is ideal in your defensible space. If you are using pine straw, that should be kept more than 10 feet away from any structures because of its high flammability. To keep your landscape firewise, keep up with routine maintenance; don t delay necessary pruning and irrigation, and remove dead leaves, branches, and plants from your property. Make sure that your roof and gutters are kept free of plant material. For a firewise landscape, remember: vegetation that s overgrown, continuous, and close to a home may improve habitat for some wildlife or conserve energy by providing shade to your home, but it also increases the home s vulnerability to wildfire. During a drought many counties implement a burn ban; be sure to stay up to date on your county s fire warnings. PLANT PLACEMENT AND MAINTENANCE Most wildfires spread horizontally through materials that lie on or grow a few feet from the ground. But shrubs, vines, and small trees can act as ladders that carry flames from the ground to treetops. To For Additional Information