Bulbs 101. Table of Contents

Transcription

1 Bulbs 101 Table of Contents 1. Bulbs Calculating the number of bulbs to buy 5. Avoiding and solving common bulb problems 9. Planting bulbs 11. Planting tulips 14. Naturalizing with spring bulbs 16. Combining tulips with annuals and perennials 18. Dividing Perennials 20. Sources

2 Bulbs 101 by National Gardening editors In addition to their charm and beauty, the large and diverse group of plants known as bulbs have a lot going for them: They come in neat little packages, are just about 100 percent guaranteed to bloom the first year they are planted, and are surprisingly pest- and disease-free. The biggest challenge for home gardeners seems to be in remembering to plant them in fall so they'll bloom the following spring--or in the case of summer-flowering bulbs, remembering to plant them in early spring. Some of the best known and loved spring-flowering bulbs include anemone, crocus, freesia, frittilaria, grape hyacinth, hyacinth, iris, lily, lily of the valley, narcissus (which include daffodils), ornamental onion (Allium) ranunculus, and tulips. Spring-flowering Ready-plant tulips. Bulbs Planting and enjoying the beauty of bulbs is one of the most straightforward propositions in all of gardendom. Following the tips below should practically guarantee success, even if you're a first-time bulb planter. Grape hyacinth Sometime in autumn, spring-flowering bulbs will arrive at your local nurseries and garden centers by the bushel-load. About the same time, you'll probably also begin receiving beautiful catalogs offering you springflowering bulbs through the mail. Whether you buy them from a local source or order them from a catalog, buy them early for the best selection and always order or buy from a reputable source that offers top-quality bulbs. Once you have your bulbs in hand, it's a good idea to plant them as soon as possible. If you have to delay planting, store the bulbs in paper bags (not plastic) in a well-ventilated, cool spot. In the main, all bulbs prefer a sunny location in the garden as well as well-drained soil. If your soil is heavy (or exceptionally sandy), add two or three inches of organic soil amendment (such as compost, ground bark, or peat moss) and cultivate the soil to a depth of six inches or more, incorporating the organic amendment as you turn the soil. When it comes to accenting gardens with bulbs, more is always more. Don't skimp! And for some unknown reason, many gardeners become regimented when they plant bulbs, arranging them in precise lines and grids. If you don't want your garden to look like a display in a municipal garden, gently throw the bulbs on the ground and plant them where they lie. Random clumps and drifts suit bulbs well, resulting in a natural-looking garden.

3 As far as planting depth is concerned, here are the general rules: Plant large bulbs at a depth about twice the height of the bulb; plant small bulbs slightly deeper than twice their height. In regions with extremely cold winters, err on the side of planting deeper than normal. After planting, lightly apply a complete, dry fertilizer over the bed. Use a fertilizer low in nitrogen, such as a formulation. No further fertilizer will be necessary until the shoots appear from the soil in spring, when one additional application of the same complete fertilizer will see the bulbs through the growing season. Once the bulbs are planted and fertilized, water the bed thoroughly to settle the soil. If desired, cover the bed with a 1-inch layer of organic mulch to deter future weeds and improve the soil. If gophers, mice, squirrels, or chipmunks are prevalent in your area, you might want to protect your bulb investment by planting them in a "cage" fashioned with chicken wire. In spring, after the bulbs have finished blooming, remove only the spent flowers. Allow the foliage to grow for as long as it cares to. Once it has turned completely yellow or brown, simply yank it from the below-ground bulb. Removing the foliage while it is still green will seriously diminish the bulb's vigor the following year. If necessary, disguise the withering bulb foliage with an overplanting of spring annuals, such as violas, calendulas, or pansies. Summer Bulbs In any gardener's inventory of beauty, the group of plants known collectively as "summer-flowering bulbs" may be the least known and under-utilized of them all. Every gardener has at least a passing awareness of spring-flowering bulbs, but ask even an accomplished gardener to list more than three summer-flowering bulbs, and you'll probably hear a lot of stammering and stuttering. Too bad. Gladiolus Comprised mainly of exotic species from foreign lands, summer-flowering bulbs can lend impressive amounts of color and beauty to the summer and late-summer landscape, for very little effort or expense. And, if you choose them right, many have the added benefit of becoming permanent residents in your garden--not only returning every summer, but actually multiplying in the process (in regions with cold winters, most gardeners dig the bulbs in fall and store them over the winter in a cool, well-ventilated location). Summer-flowering bulbs require the same basic planting and care as given for spring-flowering bulbs, only they are planted in spring instead of fall. Summerflowering bulb favorites include achimenes, begonia, caladium, calla lily, canna, dahlia, gladiolus, lily, and lily-of-the-nile (Agapanthus). Photography by NationalGardening.com

4 Calculating the Number of Bulbs To Buy by National Gardening editors Bulbs can be planted in containers, be mixed with other plantings, or just grow in a bed by themselves. If you want to create the stunning look of a massed planting of one kind of tulip or daffodil, you first need to figure how many bulbs should you buy. Tools and Materials Shovel Rake Soil amendments such as compost Sulfur or lime Trowel Hose Counting your bulbs. To simplify your bulb-buying calculations, wecreated this table of the most popular bulbs and their planting density in various-sized beds. Just measure the size of your bed and decide which type of bulb you want to plant, and the chart will determine how many bulbs you should buy. Of course, depending on both the effect you're trying to create and your budget, you can adjust the actual number of bulbs you plant. For example, for the most dramatic and showy effect, buy more bulbs than indicated and plant them closer. If you're mixing other bulbs in the bed to provide contrast to the main flower variety, buy fewer bulbs and plant them farther apart. Bed Size in Square Feet Bulb Anemone, Muscari, or Scilla Crocus Daffodil (large) Daffodils (small) Tulips (large) Tulips (species) ,000 1, ,000 2,000 1,100 1, ,110 Selecting bulbs. When selecting bulbs, remember that the larger the bulb, the more flowers it will produce the first year after planting. For the most dramatic effect, plant only one variety. If you want to stagger and elongate the flowering period, plant early, midseason, and late-season varieties of the same type of bulb, and group them by bloom season. Planting bulbs. To create a bulb bed, till the bed and remove rocks, roots, and weeds (and sod if area is still lawn), then amend

5 the soil with a 3- to 4-inch layer of compost. Based on a soil test, adjust the ph to between 6 and 7. Spread a granular bulb fertilizer (9-9-6) on the planting area. Space the bulbs evenly apart in the bed, but avoid arranging them like soldiers in a straight line; staggered spacing will give the bulbs a more natural look when they bloom. Follow the planting depths suggested for the various bulbs. A good rule of thumb: plant in a hole three times as deep as the bulb's greatest diameter. Water the bed well. After the show is over. After flowering is finished, let the foliage yellow naturally before cutting it back, and plant annual flowers such as zinnias or marigolds in the bed to provide summer color. Be careful digging in the bed so not to disturb the bulbs. (Note: Many gardeners plant tulips for one springtime show only because bloom in succeeding years is rarely as dramatic. Therefore, especially in the case tulips that you don't expect to rebloom, pull faded leaves immediately after flowers fade.) Tips For a longer show, you can plant two types of bulbs on top of each other in the same bed. Plant smaller bulbs such as crocus on top of larger bulbs such as tulips. Dig the bed to the depth of the larger bulbs. Plant and cover these with a thin layer of soil. Place the smaller bulbs on top and cover these bulbs to the soil line. If rodents such as voles or mice are widespread in your area and have been known to eat bulbs during winter, consider lining the bottom and sides of the bed with wire mesh before planting. Lay wire over the bed once planted, too. Remove the top wire mesh in spring. Photography by NationalGardening.com

6 Avoiding and Solving Common Bulb Problems by National Gardening editors No wonder bulbs are so popular in the garden -- they return year after year and are among the most carefree garden plants. To ensure repeat appearances, choose healthy bulbs and plant them correctly. Ice cream makes a perfect dessert following a main course of tulip blossoms. The table below lists seven of the most common problems associated with crocus, daffodil, hyacinth, and tulip bulbs, along with recommended solutions. If your bulbs have a problem that isn't mentioned here, search the National Gardening Question & Answer Library, or visit the Message Boards. Problem Bulbs affected Possible cause Solution Buds, leaves, blossoms eaten Bulbs are being dug up Crocus, tulip Crocus, daffodil, hyacinth, tulip Deer, squirrels, rabbits, chipmunks Squirrels, chipmunks, skunks Click here Click here Bulbs seem to disappear from the ground Crocus, tulip Mice, voles, gophers, chipmunks Click here Growth starts even though cold winter weather is still expected Crocus, daffodil, hyacinth, tulip Unseasonably warm weather Click here Leaves appear, but plants don't bloom Crocus, daffodil, hyacinth, tulip Not enough chilling; leaves removed too soon the previous year; poor soil fertility; Click here

7 not enough sun; some tulips are short-lived Blossom stalks are short Daffodil, hyacinth, tulip Not enough chilling; unseasonably warm winter and spring temperatures Click here Over the years, fewer plants and blossoms appear Crocus, daffodil, hyacinth, tulip Decline due to overcrowding, poor soil fertility, increasing shade Click here A. Bulbs, leaves, blossoms eaten Plant daffodils instead; they are unpalatable to animals. To deter smaller animals, use commercial or homemade repellents or scare tactics (dog or cat hair spread around bulb bed; hot pepper spray, flash tape or aluminum pie tins on twine, plastic scare owls or hawks). If deer are the problem, try a commercial deer repellent, or grow bulbs under protective netting supported by metal hoops or a wooden frame. B. Bulbs are being dug up Squirrels and chipmunks love to feast on crocus and tulip bulbs. Skunks dig in search of insects and worms but may also be attracted to organic fertilizers such as bone-, fish, or peanut meal. After planting, place hardware cloth, chicken wire, or other protective barrier over soil, and secure it in place. If skunks, cats, and dogs are troublesome, use well-decomposed organic amendments when planting. C. Bulbs seem to disappear from the ground If animals are the culprit, plant daffodils, which animals find inedible. To prevent pest animals from damaging bulbs, plant in an underground chicken wire cage. You can fashion your own, or purchase them ready made. Dry soil hinders root growth, causing bulbs to die and decompose instead of growing. Water well after planting, and roots should begin growing. D. Growth starts even though cold winter weather is still expected If bulbs haven't blossomed, they should weather the winter fine. Any blossoms and buds that emerge may suffer cold damage.

8 Next fall, mulch the bulb bed just after the ground freezes in cool climates, and as temperatures reach wintertime levels in warm climates. E. Leaves appear, but plants don't bloom In warm climates, choose varieties with low chilling requirements, and chill bulbs before planting. Allow leaves to remain in place until they fade completely. To hide fading foliage, plant companion annuals. If you aren't sure of a variety's longevity, ask the supplier before buying. To improve soil fertility, fertilize at planting time. Each year in spring when plants are growing, spread an inch of compost, or feed with a low-nitrogen bulb fertilizer according to package directions. Bulbs need at least half a day of sun while the leaves are green (however, in warmest climates, afternoon shade is recommended). F. Blossom stalks are short Plant bulbs in the coolest area of your garden. In cool climates, mulch after ground freezes. In warm climates, plant low-chill varieties and mulch when winter temperatures are reached. G. Over the years, fewer plants and blossoms appear If bulbs have become crowded and are competing, dig and divide them. Reduce competition from surrounding plants by weeding and mowing regularly. To increase soil fertility, in spring when plants are growing, spread an inch of compost or feed with a low-nitrogen bulb fertilizer according to package directions. If shade has increased, thin tree branches or surrounding plants to allow at least half a day of sun in spring while the bulb leaves are green (in warmest climates, afternoon shade is recommended). Suceeding with Bulbs? Check bulbs before buying or planting: Make sure they're firm and free of corky lesions, mold, and soft spots.? Plant in well-drained soil.? Plant in soil where disease hasn't been a problem.? Provide at least half a day of sun. Full sun is best in cool climates, but midday and afternoon shade are needed in hot climates.? Protect from pest animals.? Plant at correct depth.? Plant at correct time.? Mulch at proper time.? Buy the right varieties for your area's USDA Climate Zone.

9 ? Water after planting to jump-start root growth.? Fertilize at planting and during spring growth period.

10 Planting Bulbs by National Gardening editors The best time to plant spring-flowering bulbs depends on where you live. Ideally, wait until the soil temperature is below 60 o F. As a general guide, plant in September through early October if you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 or 5; October to early November in zones 6 or 7; and November to early December in zones 8 and 9. Plant bulbs that have been refrigerated for 8 to 10 weeks in late December to early January in zone 10. Bulbs grow best in a location with full sun. Choose planting beds where bulb foliage will receive at least 6 hours of sun during spring through summer. Most bulb species also prefer well-drained, not soggy, soil. Here's how to plant bulbs. Tools and Materials High-quality bulbs Trowel or bulb-planting tool Shovel Bulb fertilizer Mulch Water and nozzle Dig Holes. Dig individual bulb holes or one wide hole to plant groups of bulbs. Digging up the whole bed makes bulb spacing, layering, and soil amending easier. The depth of the hole should equal three to four times the bulb height. For example, dig a 6- to 8-inchdeep hole for a 2-inch-high bulb. Arrange Bulbs. Set the bulbs in a planting bed or in separate planting holes with their roots or basal plate downward. Space bulbs according to supplier's recommendations. In general, smaller bulbs are planted closer together than larger bulbs. Fill the planting hole with soil and firm it gently.

11 Water and Mulch. Water the bulbs right after planting to help initiate growth. In mildwinter areas, mulch right after planting to help keep soil cool and moist. Apply mulch after soil freezes in cold-winter areas to prevent the ground from heaving during winter thaws and pushing the bulbs too close to the surface. Fertilize Each autumn, maintain existing tulip and hyacinth plantings by sprinkling 1/2 cup of the fertilizer per 10 square feet. Daffodils and snowdrops thrive on a mixture. Threefourths cup of mix, per 10 square feet works on any type of bulb. First year bulbs don?t need fertilizer. Tips * Plant "mild-winter" tulip species that thrive in zones 8 through 10, such as the lady tulip (T. clusiana), the Candia tulip (T. saxatilis), and the Florentine tulip (T. sylvestris). These tulips do not need chilling before planting. * To discourage voles or gophers, add a handful of sharp gravel to the planting hole or plant bulbs in wire or fabric baskets. Don't mulch where rodents are a problem. * Layer two different species, such as tulips and grape hyacinths, in the same bed for exciting color combinations. Plant tulips first, then add enough soil to achieve the proper depth for the grape hyacinths. Plant the grape hyacinths between the tulips.

12 Planting Tulips by National Gardening editors All flowers are beautiful in their own way. But no other flowers herald spring like tulips, which captured the imagination of the Dutch some 400 years ago and can still steal the show today. Tools and materials High-quality tulip bulbs (in mild-winter areas, chill for six to eight weeks) Trowel or bulb-planting tool Shovel Bulb fertilizer Mulch Start with quality bulbs, most often from a mail-order supplier but also from a wellstocked garden center. The Netherlands tightly regulates its tulip growers, and as a consequence, all Dutch tulips are of good quality. If you're shopping at a garden center, shop early in the season and choose only bulbs that are firm and free of defects such as cuts, bruises, or mold. Later in the season, be wary of store-bought bulbs or ones offered at significant discount. We also recommend you buy tulips by variety or species name, not color. "Red tulips" for instance, can mean different kinds of varying performance. Or you may get a mixture of colors. Mild-winter tulips. If you live where winters rarely or never reach freezing temperatures, tulips likely won't grow all that well. However, you can still grow tulips if you chill them for six to eight weeks before planting (see below). The best choices are Darwin Hybrids or Single Late varieties. The long, strong stems of these tulips are more tolerant of wind and rain, and their midseason blooms appear before hot weather or spring weather.

13 Or consider some of the species tulips that are better suited to milder climates. These include lady or candy tulip (Tulipa clusiana), with rosy red petals that are white inside; Candia tulip (T. saxatilis), with vivid rose-lilac petals and a yellow base; and yellow Florentine (T. sylvestris). These are smaller and less dramatic than hybrid tulips but are still full of tulip character. When and where to plant. Plant tulips any time the soil 6 inches deep is 60 o F or colder. As a general guide, plant in September or early October in USDA Climate Hardiness Zones 4 and 5; October to early November in zones 6 and 7; November to early December in zones 8 and 9; and late December to early January in zone 10. In zones 8 through 10, refrigerate tulip bulbs for six to eight weeks before planting. Place them in a paper bag away from ripening fruits (the fruits produce ethylene gas, which destroys the flower bud within the bulb). Tulips grow best in full sun in well-prepared soil with fast drainage. Avoid planting where water collects, or in locations that are prone to late frosts. How to plant. The rule is to plant tulips pointed end up and 6 inches deep, meaning 4 inches of soil above the top of the bulb. Plant a little deeper, to 8 inches, if soil is light or sandy, or if pests such as voles are a problem. Those 2 extra inches put them just out of reach of voles. Deep planting also keeps the bulbs cooler, an advantage in mild-winter areas. For an attractive flower display, plant five tulips per square foot, or 250 bulbs per 50 square feet. Space individual bulbs about 5 inches apart. Use a low-nitrogen granular fertilizer specially formulated for bulbs, and follow label directions about the amount to apply When planting a grouping, take the extra care to plant at exactly the same depth; this ensures that they all will bloom at the same time. With a shovel, excavate soil to create a level planting base. Set bulbs into the bed, fertilize, and then cover with excavated soil. After planting, firm soil and water thoroughly. Don't water again until leaves appear. In cold-winter areas (zones 3 through 6), apply straw mulch about a month after planting. This gives the bulbs time to begin growth before the soil freezes solidly. The mulch also protects the bulbs if snow cover is light or nonexistent. In mild-winter areas (zones X through X), mulch after planting to help keep soil as cool as possible for as long as possible. Tips Showy annuals to plant with tulips include 'Carmine King' (pink) forget-me-not with 'Angelique' (pink) tulip; any blue pansy with 'White Triumphator'; or 'Mrs. John T. Scheepers' (yellow) with Chinese forget-me-not (Cynoglossum amabile). Combine tulips with perennials to maximize the impact of both. For instance, combine 'Beauty of Apeldoorn' tulip with basket-of-gold (Aurinia saxatilis). Or combine any tulip with white candytuft (Iberis sempervirens).

14 Combinations of tulips to try include 'Golden Apeldoorn' (yellow) with 'Apeldoorn' (red); 'Boccherini' (maroon) with 'Hibernia' (white); or 'Esther' (pink) with 'Shirley' (white with purple). Photography by Suzanne DeJohn/NationalGardening.com

15 Naturalizing with Spring Bulbs by National Gardening editors The effect of a brilliant mass of blossoms is impressive, especially in spring: imagine a sun- flooded hillside splashed with bright yellow daffodils, a lawn covered with the blue haze of tiny squill (Scilla) blossoms, or a streamside dancing with multicolored anemones. Naturalized plantings are easy to create and easy to maintain. Though it takes a few years for the bulbs to multiply and make their full impact, in the meantime you can enjoy the sight of these harbingers of spring. Naturalizing bulbs is a great communal activity: share planting tasks with your gardening neighbors. Tools and Materials Bulbs Spade Dibble Garden hose or length of rope Stakes Compost or manure Choose bulbs for your site and zone. In an open space, you need at least a hundred bulbs to make an impact. To fill smaller nooks or to accent a rock garden requires many fewer. Make sure to choose bulbs that are suited to your growing conditions: if you live in a northern zone, the varieties must be cold-hardy; in warmer areas, heat tolerance is more crucial if bulbs are to thrive and multiply. To simplify the process, look for naturalizing mixes or collections. These include varieties well suited to naturalizing. Generally, full sun in spring and well-drained soil are required. You can plant sun lovers under deciduous trees that will not fully leaf out until after the bulb foliage has faded. Spring bulbs well suited to naturalizing. All are vigorous growers, and most are resistant to animal and insect pests. Anemone Crocus Grape hyacinth (Muscari) Daffodils (Narcissus Squill (Scilla) Species tulips

16 Lay out the planting area. For naturalistic plantings, lay bulbs out in informal masses with curved borders and asymmetrical shapes. Lay a hose or piece of rope on the ground to mark the boundary of your planting area, and plant within it. Plant the bulbs. Within the marked area, spread out odd numbers of bulbs (three, five, or seven bulbs in a group); even numbers are more formal-looking. Make spacing between groups random, too. Use stakes to mark the areas so you can keep track of where you've planted and where you have yet to plant. For larger bulbs, use a spade. Plant large bulbs 8 to 12 inches apart within a group, medium bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart. For small bulbs, make holes with a dibble and plant bulbs 3 to 5 inches apart. Cover them with twice their height of soil (so a 2- inch bulb would have 4 inches of soil over its top). Plant deeper in sandy soil, shallower in clay soils. Dig the spade several inches into the soil, lever the soil clump up, place a bulb in the hole, lower the soil over the bulb, and step on the soil gently to firm it into place. Make another cut with the spade at an odd angle to the first cut, repeating as necessary to complete planting. If you've planted a large area, pull up the marking stake and lay it flat over the planted area so you don't dig there again. When you're done, place a few stakes around the area, and water so moisture penetrates a couple of inches. Maintain bulbs. Allow bulb foliage to remain in place until it fades completely, ensuring that the bulbs will have energy to multiply and add more volume to the display every year. Each spring, sprinkle an inch of compost or aged manure over the area. Over the summer and fall, mow the naturalized bulb bed a few times to remove plants that will compete with bulbs for water and nutrients. Tips Deciduous trees with deep taproots are better companions for naturalized plantings than trees with shallow, spreading roots. To naturalize bulbs in your lawn, choose bulbs that blossom and fade before grass grows vigorously and requires mowing: crocus, winter aconite, snowdrops, and scilla. Photography by Suzanne DeJohn/NationalGardening.com

17 Combining Tulips with Annuals and Perennials by National Gardening editors Although tulips look great massed in planting beds, they look even better when combined with other bulbs, annual and perennial flowers, or shrubs. To get the best results, you'll need to consider each plant's color, bloom season, and height. Here's some combinations to get you started. Tools and Materials Bulbs Annual and perennial plants Shovel Trowel Soil amendments such as compost Fertilizer Hose Tulips with other bulbs. Although a bed of red and yellow tulips is stunning, its stardom is fleeting. Why not extend the bloom season by including bulbs that will bloom before, during, and after the tulips are finished? Just remember the heights of the bulbs, and plant lower-growing ones in front of taller varieties. Some suggested combinations: 'Red Dynasty' tulip with 'Yellow Crown' fritillaria Red 'Showwinner' tulips with 'Giant White' crocus Pink 'Angelique' tulip with pink 'Rosy Clouds' daffodil Tulips with annual flowers. In warm-winter areas, plant these annuals with the tulip bulbs in fall. In cold-winter areas, plant the annuals in spring as soon as you see the first tulip shoots emerge from the soil. Remember to keep low-growing annuals in front of taller tulip varieties. Purple-white 'Shirley' tulip with white-purple-yellow 'Johnny Jump Up' violas Red, white, yellow or purple Rembrandt tulip with white sweet alyssum 'Apricot Beauty' tulip with blue forget-me-not (Myosotis) Tulips with perennial flowers. These combinations are low-maintenance and can be repeated every year. Perennials may need to be divided or thinned after a few years to leave room for planting tulips around them. Black 'Queen of the Night' tulip with basket-of-gold (Aurinia saxitilis) Pink 'Angelique' tulip with pink-white bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) 'Purple Majesty' tulip with white candytuft (Iberis sempervirens) Red-white 'Mata Hari' tulip with red-white 'Nora Barlow' columbine (Aquilegia) 'Blue Parrot' tulip with Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica) Pink 'Don Quichotte' tulip with pink creeping phlox (P. subulata) Tulips with spring-blooming shrubs. Tulips can be stunning when planted in front of or around these shrubs. These combinations bloom around the same time in spring or have complementary foliage color. 'White Emperor' tulip with dwarf red Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii) Red-yellow 'King Edward' tulip with yellow forsythia

18 Pink 'Angelique' tulip with pink flowering almond (Prunus triloba) 'Red Emperor' tulip with white serviceberry (Amelanchier) Caring for plantings. When planting tulips with perennial flowers or shrubs, take into account the mature sizes of the perennials and shrubs. After a few years, you may neend to divide or move them. Except for species tulips, which naturalize easily, most varieties don't rebloom well, so you must replant each year. When you plant bulbs around existing plants, be careful not to damage the root systems of the shrubs or flowers. Also, because the bulbs will be competing with the flower or shrub for water and nutrients, keep the area well fertilized and watered, especially in spring and fall. Add compost to the soil at planting time, and fertilize the bulbs with a high phosphorus and moderate to low nitrogen fertilizer. Tips When combining tulips with perennials, consider some perennials that, although they may not flower at the same time as the tulips, will hide the dying and yellowing foliage of the tulips when they are finished blooming. Daylilies are a good example. Plant annuals around tulips that are just poking out of the ground. Tulips grow quickly to their flowering stage in spring, especially if temperatures are warm. If the annual flowers are already blooming, they'll be ready for the opening tulip flowers. Photography by Suzanne DeJohn/NationalGardening.com

19 Dividing Perennials by National Gardening editors When an established perennial produces fewer flowers, or the center of the plant looks sickly while the margins thrive, it could be time to divide the plant. Or even if the plant is healthy, perhaps you'd like to share it with a friend by splitting off a piece. For one reason or another, most gardeners will need to divide their perennials at some point. The best time to divide plants depends on your region. In cold regions, early spring is usually the best time. The new divisions will have a long period to become established before the challenges of the long, cold winter. On the other hand, in climates with mild winters and hot summers, hot summer temperatures pose a harsh threat, so fall may be a better time to divide, giving plants the mild winter to get established. Here are some guidelines for dividing perennials. Tools and Materials Shovel Garden forks Pruners Trimmers Sharp knife Tarp Prepare the Plant. Choose a cool, cloudy day to divide and replant. If the ground is dry, begin by thoroughly soaking the soil around the plant. Let it drain while you gather your tools: shovel, garden fork, pruners, and sharp knife. Then trim back the leaves or stems to 6 to 8 inches to make handling easier. Dig In. You have two options when dividing perennials. You can dig up the whole clump, then separate it into several smaller clumps, or you can simply use a shovel to slice down and remove sections of the plant, leaving part of it intact. Generally, it's better to dig up the whole clump and carefully split it into sections.

20 Divide the Plant. Place the entire clump on a tarp in a shady spot, and check to see if any sections naturally split off. Some perennials have roots that are easy to separate; others are such a tangled mass that you'll need to tease or pry them part using two garden forks back to back. Still others have fleshy roots that you'll need to slice into sections. Prune away dead and damaged tissue, and make sure each section has a portion of roots and leaves. Replant the Divisions. If you are giving the divisions away, place them in containers and pack moist soil around the roots. Water them and keep them in a cool, shady spot. Plant divisions as soon as possible. When replanting in the holes you've prepared, set the plants at the same depth they were in the original bed. Water the new divisions well, and keep them well watered throughout their first year. Tips * Some plants don't need dividing and resent having their roots disturbed. These include monkshood (Aconitum), false indigo (Baptisia), bleeding heart (Dicentra), lupine (Lupinus), peony (Paeonia), and poppy (Papaver). * If possible, divide perennials just before a rainy spell is predicted. Cool temperatures and gentle moisture will help the plants recover from the stress of dividing and replanting.

21 Sources Catalogs: White Flower Farm Brecks Lee Valley Tools Gardeners Supply Company Websites Martha Stewart great plant encyclopedia National Gardening Association Magazines Martha Stewart Fine Gardening