Fruit Training and Pruning

Transcription

1 Slide 1 Fruit Training and Pruning Amanda Mosiman Extension Educator: Ag and Natural Resources Oct 2016 Master Gardeners

2 Slide 2 Reasons for Pruning Plant Health! Removal of diseased plant parts Avoiding limb-limb abrasion by eliminating crossing branches Reducing leaf/branch density for air circulation Fruit Production! regulate growth / control tree size improve fruit size and quality reduce production costs In essence, proper pruning removes unproductive wood, maintains optimum vigor in productive wood, and encourages the continuous development of new bearing wood to replace that removed by pruning. Plant health: Removal of diseased plant parts Avoiding limb-limb abrasion by eliminating crossing branches Reducing leaf/branch density for air circulation Reducing leaf/branch density for light penetration

3 Slide 3 When to Prune? Most pruning during the dormant season preferably just before active growth begins in the spring. wounds heal faster, flower buds can be easily recognized, and injury from extreme low winter temps avoided Summer pruning young trees desired shape, remove water sprouts maintain smaller tree size. Dormant Feb to march here - main Emphasis its different every year secondary

4 Slide 4 Objectives of Training and Pruning some pruning will always be necessary, but the emphasis should be on training rather than pruning. growth of the young tree should be directed into branches that will be a permanent part of the mature tree removing superfluous growth encourage early production development of a strong structural framework capable of supporting heavy crops optimum tree shape training should produce trees that will be easy to manage in later years much of the pruning of mature trees is merely the correction of earlier errors and omissions. some pruning will always be necessary, but the emphasis should be on training rather than pruning. growth of the young tree should be directed into branches that will be a permanent part of the mature tree removing superfluous growth encourage early production development of a strong structural framework capable of supporting heavy crops optimum tree shape training should produce trees that will be easy to manage in later years much of the pruning of mature trees is merely the correction of earlier errors and omissions.

5 Slide 5 Pruning Central Leader Modified Central Leader Open Center 5 Pruning Why prune? Improve shape and balance. Optimize sunlight (fruit trees need good exposure to the sun for the fruit to ripen properly). Remove dead, damaged, or undesirable wood. NOTE: Apple bears on old wood, while peach bears on new or last year s wood. For example, pruning peaches after bloom or fruit set promotes new growth for next year s crop. Three different styles of pruning system: Central leader Modified central leader Open center or vase

6 Slide 6 Training 6 Training Why train? Crotch angles are important for limbs to support a fruit load. 45 degrees maximum. Begin training soon after planting. Strive for good spacing of limbs. Widgets for training: spreaders, ground anchors, twine, weights, cloths pins, stakes, etc.

7 Slide 7 Basic Concepts: Apical Dominance Growth at the shoot tip dominates and suppresses growth of lateral shoots. Referred to as apical dominance Suppressed axillary buds Active apical bud Apical dominance: Inhibition of growth of lateral buds (shoots) by terminal bud (shoot)

8 Slide 8 Basic Concepts: Lack of apical dominance Pruning removes the apical meristem, the source of plant hormone. Apical bud is removed by pruning Axillary buds develop With no hormone coming from the apex, axillary buds develop, giving rise to a bushier plant Pruning removes the apical meristem, the source of plant hormone. With no hormone coming from the apex, axillary buds develop, giving rise to a bushier plant

9 Slide 9 Pruning cuts 2 types Heading Back A pruning cut, made between the shoot tip and the point of origin of that shoot Should be made just above a lateral branch or bud Bud direction aims shoot growth Generally remove up to 1/3 of the height Thinning Remove growth General types of pruning cuts: Heading back to above a promising bud or side branch. Thinning to a main branch or the ground.

10 Slide 10 Heading vs. thinning 10 Heading vs. thinning. Heading cuts stimulate growth of buds closest to the wound. The direction in which the top remaining bud is pointing will determine the direction of new growth. Thinning cuts remove branches at their points of origin or attachment. Used in moderation, thinning cuts reduce shrub density without stimulating regrowth.

11 Slide 11 Thinning cuts Thinning: Complete removal of a shoot at its point of origin (the base of the shoot)

12 Slide 12 Heading back to a lateral branch or bud Heading back to a lateral branch or bud.

13 Slide 13 Pruning cuts: technique YES NO NO NO Heading back: right and wrong. Look at proper angles need shape bldes

14 Slide 14 Don t leave a stub 14 Don t leave a stub. Prune to outside of branch collar.

15 Slide 15 Unpruned tree light penetration Its all about light! Prune to bring in light.

16 Slide 16 What to Prune A: Suckers vegetative shoots drain resources base dog rafted trees B. Stubs or broken braches - headed back to healthy side branches or removed. C: Downward-growing branches develop few fruit buds and eventually shade or rub more productive scaffold branches. D. Rubbing branches create bark injury which also invite insects or disease. Head back or remove the less productive of the two. E. Shaded interior branches develop less quality fruit and limit access for harvest. F. Competing leaders - Head these back or an unbalanced, structurally unsound tree will develop. G. Narrow crotches occur when a branch develops more parallel than perpendicular to the trunk or limb from which it originates H. Whorls occurs when several branches originate at the same point on the trunk or limb. Joints are weaker there, so select the best-located and remove the others. I. Heading back are used to limit or redirect the growth of the central leader or branches. For limiting, cut back to a weak bud or lateral twig; for diversion cut back to a bud, twig, or branch oriented in the preferred direction.

17 Slide Select for wide crotches, not narrow. Better able to withstand storms.

18 Slide 18 Remove co-dominant or double stems while young. Remove one of the leaders. Use double-cut method.

19 Slide 19 Predicting Growth A - Upright growth Most growth develops from the terminal bud itself few lateral buds may form shoots most of the buds become spurs or remain dormant inhibit flower formation. B - upright branch is bent to a near horizontal position the pattern of growth-regulator movement is altered Total vegetative growth is reduced more lateral branch development occurs flower formation is stimulated C - branch is bent below the horizontal terminal growth nearly ceases replaced by vigorous, upright watersprouts Most of the extension growth develops from the terminal bud itself. A few lateral buds may form shoots, but most of the buds become spurs or remain dormant. Production and downward movement of growth-regulating substances from the terminal growing shoot limit the development of shoots from lateral buds. These natural growth-regulating materials also tend to inhibit flower formation. The greater the vigor of vegetative growth, the greater the amounts of these flower formation inhibiting substances produced. When vegetative vigor becomes excessive, a large amount of shoot growth takes place, and few flower buds are formed. If an upright branch is bent to a near horizontal position, the pattern of growth-regulator movement is altered. Total vegetative growth is reduced, more lateral branch development occurs, and flower formation is stimulated (fig. 3b). If the branch is bent below the horizontal, terminal growth nearly ceases and is replaced by vigorous, upright watersprouts near the base of the branch (fig. 3c).

20 Slide 20 Fighting Growth Habit Taking this To this Have to fight upward growth esp apples Winesap is one variety that is naturally more wide Huber planting these

21 Slide 21 Prune - Upright growth

22 Slide 22 Prune overlapping braches

23 Slide 23 Summer Pruning example

24 Slide 24 New Trees - Balance roots and shoots Used to recommend balancing root loss by removing ½ of branches (less transpiration). Not recommended! Leaves are needed to make carbohydrates for new root growth.

25 Slide 25 Pruning Neglected trees Oregon State University great pub with diagrams 4-5 year process Reduce trees height Increase vigor of fruiting wood Open up canopy to light

26 Slide 26 Small Fruit Crops Brambles (raspberry & blackberry) Grapes

27 Slide 27 It s all about canes! Brambles are biennial plants Primocanes - 1 year old wood producing fruit fall crop Floricanes 2 year old wood producing fruit - summer (and fall) fruiting Typically die back Raspberries Red (summer floricane and fall primocane fruiting types) Gold (red mutants) Purple (summer) Black (summer) Blackberries Thorny or thornless Erect or semi-erect Primocane fruiting types (New!)

28 Slide 28 Primacane Fruiting Raspberry and Blackberries Prune primocanefruiting raspberries and blackberries in the winter by removing all canes at the soil surface.

29 Slide 29 Summer-fruiting red raspberries Prune summer-fruiting red raspberries in the winter ( dormant) by removing the old floricanes and thinning the remaining canes.

30 Slide 30 Summer Pruning Blackberries and Black Raspberries - head back the inches Encourages branching and fruit set Can be done several times during summer Remove floricanes during winter! And thin remaining canes

31 Slide 31 Summer fruiting black raspberries and erect blackberries some dormant pruning and thinning Remove floricanes during winter! And thin remaining canes

32 Slide 32 Blackberries Erect types Semi-erect types

33 Slide 33 Semi erect blackberries Pruned like erect except usually need trellis to support canes head back at 5 feet to encourage branching

34 Slide 34 Grapes Chambourcin 1 Source: Grape Varieties for Indiana, Bruce Bordelon, 2009, Purdue Extension publication HO-221-W 1 Vignoles produces excellent wines. Noiret is a mid to late-season red wine grape. Chambourcin is one of the most planted hybrids in France. Photo Credits: Bruce Bordelon and Steve Somermeyer 34 Small Fruit Choices Grapes (species and hybrids in the genus Vitis) Basics: Grape plants are long-lived, perennial woody vines. Select varieties carefully to ensure hardiness, especially in northern Indiana. American and French-American hybrids can be grown in Indiana. European grape varieties are not hardy in Indiana. Plant in spring. You must train vines to a trellis system. Grapes are selffertile. Critical Activities: Plants require initial training on support system. Prune each year in late winter. Major Pests: Black rot, downy mildew, powdery mildew, adult Japanese beetles, grape flea beetles. Sensitive to the herbicide 2,4-D and can be damaged by pesticide drift.

35 Slide 35 Typical Yard Vine

36 Slide 36 Training Systems High Cordon Umbrella Knife / Fan High Cordon allows excellent light and spray penetration, easy to prune and pick, minial tying Umbrella Knife / Fan- useful for training grapes to walls and fences or to a special trellis. Several upright canes and shorter trunk ideal for weaker vines,

37 Slide 37 Pruning: For every bud we leave, we get a shoot

38 Slide 38 Proper pruning is the key to success.

39 Slide 39 Remove about 90-95% of the previous season s growth. Leave 20 buds for each pound of prunings. Distribute spurs evenly along vine. Save 3-4 node spurs for fruiting, 1 node spurs for renewal.

40 Slide 40 Questions and Answers s Amanda Mosiman Questions and Answers This concludes our presentation. Do you have any questions?