HORTICULTURE NEWSLETTER

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1 HORTICULTURE NEWSLETTER June 2016 IN THIS ISSUE Container Gardens for Outdoor Spaces Healthy Streams Plant Diseases Herbs Snake ID Rain Gardens Ticks Upcoming Classes June 23 6pm Producing Produce (learn how your food is produced) All classes offered by the Horticulture Program require preregistration. If you fail to preregister classes may be full, rescheduled or cancelled. Please call , to RSVP, if you plan on attending a class. Bullitt County 384 Halls Ln. Shepherdsville, Ky (502) Fax: (502) Book Drive for Bullitt County Detention Center Paperbacks Only (scifi, westerns, crime and drama needed in particular) Drop off at Extension Office June 13th 24th 9am 4 pm 2016 Master Gardener Plant & Garden Art Sale It was wet, but it was wonderful!!!!!! July 7 6pm Cool Weather Crops July 15 6pm Rain Barrels (there are still some spots left to make a rain barrel, you can also come learn how to make one at home) Must RSVP July 21 6pm The Dirty Dozen (12 fruits and vegetables with high pesticide residues and what to do about it) Please RSVP if you plan to attend any of our classes Lorilee George Lorilee George Bullitt County Extension Agent for Horticulture

2 Container Gardens for Outdoor Spaces Container gardening elevates plants, bringing them closer to eye level and making them more prominent than a similar grouping of plants at ground level. The container itself can provide architectural interest and color. Containers can make gardening easier for gardeners with limited mobility. They can be more water efficient in times of drought. Vegetables, herbs, flowering plants, and even shrubs and trees can be grown in containers. A wide variety of container types, sizes, shapes and materials are available. Some decorative containers have a removable inner pot which allow for easier planting and changing out of plant material without moving the large outer pot. Containers can be moved to different areas of the deck or yard, allowing for a new perspective without major effort. The most important aspect of a container is drainage. Make sure the container has drain holes or otherwise provides for soil drainage. Other considerations pertain to size, weight, and shape. Any object that holds potting soil is a possible container. The smaller the container, the more often it will need to be watered, and shallow containers limit plant rooting depth. Potting soil combines materials that absorb and retain moistures with materials that allow water to drain. Lightweight potting soils reduce the overall weight of the container. Avoid finetextured or heavy potting soils since these usually hold too much water, reducing root aeration and stressing plants. Reduce the amount of potting soil needed in large containers by placing light-weight filler, such as packing peanuts, lava rock, or empty plastic bottles in the bottom. These materials will not affect root growth of most plants but will make the container lighter in weight and easier to move. Use the rule of right plant, right place when selecting plants for containers. If more than one plant is used, make sure all of them require similar conditions. Primary considerations are the amount of light, water, and fertilizer. Also consider growth rate and mature plant size, so that the container stays attractive and all plants add to the visual aspect. Plants that grow large will need larger containers to accommodate their root systems and top growth. Larger plants also are more susceptible to being turned over by the wind, so make sure the container is heavy enough to prevent this from happening. Publications with complete information are available at the Bullitt County Extension Office. Source: Container Gardens for Outdoor Spaces-IFAS Extension

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4 Understanding Plant Disease Plant disease is usually defined as abnormal growth and/or dysfunction of a plant. Diseases are the result of some disturbance in the normal life process of the plant. Diseases may be the result of living and /or non-living causes. Biotic diseases are caused by living organisms (e.g., fungi, bacteria, and viruses). Abiotic diseases are caused by nonliving environmental conditions, (e.g., soil compaction, wind, frost, soil salt damage, and girdling roots). Specific conditions must be present for biotic disease to develop. There must be a susceptible host plant, the pathogen and environmental conditions conducive to disease development; these must come together in a given point in time. Biotic disease cannot occur if one of these pieces is missing. Environmental conditions Weather plays a large role in fungal disease development. Most fungi require free water or specific levels of humidity or moisture for prolonged periods of time to develop. Gardens may have conditions ideal for disease development due to poor air circulation, shade, high humidity, and high moisture. Symptoms of disease are the plant s reaction to the causal agent. Plant symptoms include: Blight a rapid discoloration and death of twigs, foliage, or flowers. Canker dead area on bark or stem, often sunken or raised. Chlorosis yellowing chlorosis is so generic that without additional details diagnosis is impossible. Decline progressive decrease in plant vigor. Dieback progressive death of shoot, branch, or root starting at the tip. Distortion malformed plant tissue Gall or gall-like abnormal localized swelling or enlargement of plant part. It could be caused by insects, mites, diseases, or abiotic disorders. Gummosis exudation of gum or sap. Leaf distortion the leaf could be twisted, cupped, rolled, or otherwise deformed. Leaf scorch burning along the leaf margin and into the leaf from the margin. Leaf spot a spot or lesion on the leaf. Mosaic dead tissue necrotic areas are also generic that without additional details diagnosis is impossible. Stunting lack of growth. Wilt general wilting of the plant or plant part. Witches broom abnormal broom-like growth of many weak shoots. Insect feeding injury is also a symptom used in diagnosis, but not a symptom of disease. Even though a plant has symptoms on a specific part, it does not necessarily mean that damaged tissue contains the organism causing the symptoms. For example, a root rot can cause chlorosis and wilting of stems and leaves, but the disease causal organism is in the roots. It is imperative to examine as much of the plant as possible to determine exactly where the problem is originating. Continued on next page..

5 .. Continued from previous page Signs are the actual organisms causing the disease. Signs include: Conks woody reproductive structures of fungi. Fruiting bodies reproductive structures of fungi; could be in the form of mushrooms, puffballs, pycnidia, rusts, or conks. Mildew whitish growth produced by fungi composed of mycelium. Mushrooms fleshy reproductive structures of fungi. Mycelium thread-like vegetative growth of fungi. Rhizomorphs shoestring-like fungal threads found under the bark of stressed and dying trees caused by the Armillarial fungi. They may glow! Slime flux or ooze a bacterial discharge that oozes out of the plant tissues, may be gooey or a dried mass. Spore masses masses of spores, the seeds of a fungus. Insects and/or their frass (excrement) are also signs, although not signs of disease. Biotic causes of disease include fungi, bacteria, viruses, phytoplasmas, nematodes, and parasitic plants. Viral Disease Mosaic Virus Phytoplasma Infection on a potato plant Nematodes Parasitic Plants Mistletoe Fungal Leaf Spot Cedar Apple Rust Bacterial Disease Fire Blight Information Source: Plant Pathology/CMG Garden Notes #331 Colorado State University Extension For a complete copy of this publication, contact the Bullitt County Extension Office.

6 Lessons from a Beginning Herb Gardener By Dave Puckett/Bullitt County Master Gardener Herbs have always fascinated me. From the sage my mother grew beside the smokehouse to the mint my daughter brought home from school (which took over the front lawn!), their taste and fragrance were magical. So, at the age of 68, I finally tried my hand at herb gardening last year. Raising herbs proved to me that I am never too old to learn! Let me share with you a few lessons which came from my herb garden. First, what are herbs, really? Generally speaking, an herb is any plant used whole or in part as an ingredient for health, flavor, or fragrance. In addition to plants used in traditional folk medicines, about one-forth of our modern drugs contain plant extracts as active ingredients. Some herbs are used for brewing teas: enhancing the flavor of cooked foods, such as meats, vegetables, sauces and soups: or to flavor oils, vinegars or butters. Finally, many are cultivated simply for their fragrance and are used in potpourris, and sachets, or to scent candles, oils, soaps and perfumes. Start from the Beginning! If you are a beginner at raising herbs or have limited indoor space for starting seeds, it might be best to start from seedlings, rather than by planting your own seeds. Because many things can go wrong in the seed-to-seedling transition (including not thinning out plants properly), it s probably best to begin by skipping that problematic step. You can find nice seedlings at your local garden center or at your Bullitt County Extension Master Gardeners Spring Plant Sale. Here are a few tips for selecting healthy herb plants: Choose a good, sturdy plant that is well developed for the size of container in which it is growing. Gently lift the plant out of its container and observe the roots. The roots should be white and should fill the container but not be a solid mass, or root bound. Root bound plants have a challenging task in recovering from the stunted period. Check the leaves for any evidence of insects or disease. Remember the best plant is not always the largest one. Choose a Few Favorites Herbs, in general, are relatively easy to grow. Your garden should feature the herbs you like best and use most often. For example, if you like Italian dishes, grow basil, oregano, and fennel. If you like potpourri, raise some lavender and lemon verbena. If you have been wanting to try making your own teas, try peppermint, blue balsam mint, or chamomile. Pruning and Harvesting To prune herbs for optimum production, cut just above a set of growing leaves. Making your first pruning cut approximately 3-4 inches above the soil. This will produce a strong sturdy plant. As the plant grows, continue to prune every 3-4 inches for a nice, solid plant. Warning, (he said from experience), be careful when pruning woody perennials like rosemary. Never prune to bare wood. Woody herbs like rosemary and bay are either very slow to regrow or may die from harsh pruning. The best time to harvest herbs is when you are ready to use them. Using clipped springs, from plants throughout the growing season is the easiest way to maintain herbs, so harvest only as much as you need each time. Harvest herbs in the morning hours after the dew has dried but before the heat of the sun wilts the plant. Volatile oils are at their peak in the cooler morning hours. A Word to the Wise Watch out for oregano and mint; neither know when to stop growing. If you are planting outside in a garden, you may want to pot the herbs and bury the pots in the ground. This will help control the root systems. If you have questions about your other herbs, contact your Extension Service Horticulture Agent, Lorilee George at She will be happy to point out which herbs might be in danger of overwhelming your garden. Sources:

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8 Rain Gardens A rain garden is a landscaped, shallow depression that allows rain and snowmelt to be collected and seep naturally into the ground. This helps to restore our groundwater supply and helps to control polluted runoff of storm water. It can help prevent erosion in lawns and landscaping and provide a habitat for birds, butterflies, and beneficial insects like dragonflies, which eat mosquitoes. A typical rain garden is between four and eight inches deep. It should be in a sunny location, away from septic systems and not under large trees. Place the rain garden in a location where downspouts and roof and lawn drainage will flow into it. However do not place it in an area that already remains wet for long periods of time, as this is an indication of poor ground infiltration and will cause standing water. When choosing size and location of your rain garden take into consideration: How much time and effort you are willing to put into construction and upkeep. Views of the garden from inside the house as well as outside. Determine the amount of runoff to know what size the raingarden needs to be. Locate underground water, gas and electrical services BEFORE you dig. This can be done for you by calling 811. Experiment with shapes by using rope or water hose to lay out boundary of garden. A berm will be needed to keep the water in the garden until it soaks into the ground. The location for water entrance should be wide enough to incorporate water coming from several areas. Digging out a shallow area and heaping the soil around the lower edge will be the easiest way to create a berm. Choose native plants for your garden. Use plants of different height, shape and color. Plants that bloom at different times of the year will give long seasonal interest. Choose plants that attract butterflies and hummingbirds, to provide entertainment and an educational experience for youth. Enhance interest by placing stones, ornamental fences, trellis, benches, birdbaths and feeders. Randomly clump individual species in groups of 3 to 7 plants to provide a bolder statement of color. Once the rain garden has matured and plants such as sedges, rushes and grasses have established a deep, thick root system, there will be less weeds and less work for you. A thick root matrix keeps the entire plant community in balance. Mulch will not be required after the second growing season. After each growing season, the stems and seedheads can be left for winter interest, wildlife cover and bird food. This article is just very basic information. Contact the Bullitt County Extension Office to ask for in depth publications on how to build a rain garden. Sources: Rain Gardens University of Wisconsin-Extension Rain Gardens-Rutgers Extension

9 Ticks Ticks prefer to live in woods, tall grass, weeds and brush. They climb onto low vegetation and attach to suitable hosts which pass by, including pets and people. Ticks are seldom a problem in well-maintained lawns although edges of property supporting tall weeds and brush can be a source of infestation. The best way to avoid acquiring ticks is through prevention. Avoid walking through uncut fields and other areas likely to harbor ticks. Wear long pants tucked into socks and consider using tick repellents. Walk in the center of mowed trails to avoid brushing up against vegetation. Inspect family and pets after being in tickinfested areas, and promptly remove any ticks which are found. To remove an attached tick, use a fine-point tweezer and grasp the tick just behind the point of attachment. Pull slowly and steadily until the tick is dislodged. Wash the bite area and apply antiseptic. Do not grasp or squeeze the rear portion of the tick s body, either with your fingers or with tweezers. This can expel the gut contents of the tick into your tissues and increase the likelihood of disease transmission. Most disease transmission occurs after ticks have been attached for longer that 24 to 36 hours. Antibiotic treatment must be started within 72 hours of the bite, if the bite is suspected to be from a disease carrying tick. Bull s Eye Rash from tick bite The best available tick repellents are aerosols containing a 0.5 percent permethrin insecticide that can be applied to your clothing. Once applied to dry clothing, these products repel ticks and remain effective through several launderings. Products containing DEET can be applied to the skin and will also repel mosquitoes and other insects, but is less effective against ticks. Always read and follow the label before applying to clothing or skin. Chemical control in yards and recreational areas is usually not recommended. These areas are usually too large to make the treatment practical and is only marginally effective. Do not allow children or pets access to any area that has been sprayed until the spray has dried. Controlling ticks on animals is also important. Pet owners may choose to simply remove ticks regularly by hand. Chemical products to treat pets for ticks include dust and shampoo, and will require repeated applications. Tick collars contain pesticides that kill ticks around the head and neck only. Manual inspection and removal will still be required. Tickborne diseases include babesiosis, ehrlichiosis, anaplasmosis, lyme disease, relapsing fever, rocky mountain spotted fever, and tularemia. One of the newest tickborne diseases to be identified is called Southern tickassociated rash illness (STARI). This disease has a bull s-eye rash similar to Lyme disease, but is transmitted by the lone star tick instead of the deer tick. Sources: ENTFACT-618 /University of Kentucky G7382/ University of Missouri Extension Tickborne Diseases/ NIH

10 2016 Master Gardener Plant & Garden Art Sale

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12 Cooperative Extension Service University of Kentucky Bullitt County 384 Halls Ln. Shepherdsville Ky, 40165