ANEW LANDSCAPE really

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1 Installing Woody Landscape Plants, Groundcovers, Perennials, and Annuals ANEW LANDSCAPE really approaches a finished project once plant materials have been installed. Since plants are the most admired part of a landscape and they can be a major expense, it is important that care be taken while they are being installed. Techniques for installing plants are discussed in this unit. Objective: Demonstrate how to install various types of plant materials in the landscape. Key Terms: antitranspirant balled-and-burlapped bare-root containerized guying landscape fabric mulch root circling staking Page 1

2 Installing Landscape Plants Installing plants is one of the last steps in landscaping a house. Before plants are brought in, the land needs to be graded, hardscape materials put in, and soil prepared. In the progression of things, trees and shrubs are placed before groundcovers, perennials, and annuals. PACKAGING Plants can be grown and packaged for the commercial nursery trade in several ways. Nurseries produce plants for sale as bare-root, balled-and-burlapped, or containerized stock. The form of plant to be used may be noted on the planting plan. The type of nursery stock might also be indicated in a list of landscape specifications. Bare Root Bare-root (BR) plants are grown in the field and are usually harvested when dormant. The soil is removed from the roots, and the plants are stored in a cool place. The roots of bare-root plants need to be protected from drying out before planting. This method is suitable for many perennials, roses, all bulbs, shrubs, and some smaller trees. Fruit trees are frequently sold BR. Bare-root plants are lighter in weight, so shipping costs are much less than those associated with balled-and-burlapped or containerized stock. Balled-and-Burlapped Balled-and-burlapped (B&B) plants are grown in the field. Each plant is dug by hand or mechanically, leaving a ball of soil around the roots. The soil ball is wrapped in burlap and tied with twine. This method is used with shrubs, evergreens, and trees and Bare Root Balled-and-Burlapped Containerized FIGURE 1. Landscape plants can be sold bare root, balled-and-burlapped, or containerized. FIGURE 2. Balled-and-burlapped trees ready for planting. Page 2

3 works well for moving very large specimens. The balled-and-burlapped practice has been successfully used for centuries. Hydraulic spades reduce the hand labor involved. Some mechanical diggers are used in the field to dig plants, which are then balled-and-burlapped. Metal cages are sometimes used with large soil balls to provide added strength. Shrink-wrap plastic might be wrapped around the burlap to reduce water loss. A truck-mounted tree spade can be used to lift a tree from the nursery and transplant it directly to the construction site. Containerized Containerized plants are grown and sold in containers, typically plastic plant pots. Plants are easy to handle and move in containers. A container also provides good protection for a plant s root system. This method is especially suitable for evergreen shrubs, broadleaf evergreens, some herbaceous shrubs, groundcovers, perennials, and annuals. PLANTING BARE-ROOT TREES AND SHRUBS FIGURE 3. Containerized nursery stock ready for planting. Plants are a significant investment of time and money for the landscaper and property owner. Therefore, it is important that each plant receive the best possible installation to improve its chances of survival. Remove the plastic or other wrapping material from around the plant s roots, discarding any sawdust, shredded newspaper, or plastic. If sphagnum is used, it may be retained. Dig the hole as deep as the longest root and at least 12 inches larger in diameter. The bark or stem of a bare-root plant will usually have a stain marking the original field height. The tree or shrub should be planted at the same depth as it was growing in the nursery. Once the hole has been dug, replace some of the tilled soil at the bottom center to form a cone. Rest the plant crown and stem on this cone. Carefully spread the secondary roots out over the rest of the hole in their natural shape. Backfill the hole a few inches; then tamp the soil carefully to remove air pockets. Repeat this process until the hole is filled. Water thoroughly. PLANTING BALLED-AND-BURLAPPED TREES AND SHRUBS The following are common techniques in planting balled-and-burlapped stock. Page 3

4 Handling the Plant When planting a B&B tree or shrub, it is important to protect the soil ball. The soil ball must not be dropped or handled in a way that will cause it to break apart, as this will damage the root system. Also, do not lift a tree or shrub by its trunk or branches. Do not remove the burlap or twine until the final placement of the tree or shrub. Preparing the Hole Always dig the planting hole at least 12 inches wider than the soil ball to allow space for future root growth. Loosening the soil improves water movement and air exchange. A bigger hole lessens the time it takes for the plant to become established in its new location. Planting hole a minimum of 12" Balled-and-Burlapped wider than soil ball. Cut twine and tree push burlap back. Form a saucer at the base of the tree and fill with 3" of mulch. Tree supported by guying FIGURE 4. Planting a balled-and-burlapped tree. Placing the Plant Usually the top of the soil ball should be level with the surface of the surrounding soil. The bottom of the hole should be flat, allowing the tree or shrub to be planted at the same depth at which it was originally growing. A plant should never be planted deeper than it was originally, as this leads to root rot and death. In a poorly drained soil, the soil ball may be planted a bit higher than the original growing depth. Carefully place the plant in the hole with the burlap and twine intact. Handle the plant by the root ball. Once the plant is located, all twine should be removed from around the stem. Page 4

5 Twine left in place may girdle the stem. Green burlap has been treated with a preservative and must be removed. Brown burlap should also be removed if possible. If it cannot be removed, it should be pulled back from the top of the root ball and tucked down underneath the soil ball. Backfilling the Hole Position the plant with the best side facing the main viewing point. Set the tree or shrub in a vertical position. Fill the hole halfway with back fill. Use the same soil that came from the hole. Do not amend the backfill, as it creates a different type of soil than the surrounding soil. Plant roots have difficulty growing from one type of soil to another. Step the soil down to eliminate air pockets. Frequently check the position of the plant and make adjustments as necessary. Fill the remainder of the hole with water. Let the water soak into the soil before completing the backfill process. Do not tamp the soil at this point. Tamping wet soil damages the soil structure. Watering Create a water saucer by building a small mound that rings the hole. This mound will hold water so that it soaks in around the newly planted tree or shrub. Water the plant again by filling the soil saucer. Thorough soakings may be necessary every 10 days during periods of drought. Protecting the Trunk Protect the trunk of a newly planted tree from sunscald and frost cracks by using tree wrap. This is particularly important with thin-barked trees in northern climates. Pruning Newly planted trees should not be pruned other than to remove dead or diseased limbs or severe structural problems. An example of a structural problem is multiple leaders. Mulching Spread a layer of mulch over the soil ball and soil saucer to a depth of about 3 inches. Bracing Trees Trees may or may not require bracing. The main reason for bracing is to keep a tree from shifting until new roots have developed to anchor the tree. In most situations small trees should not be staked. Studies have shown that trees without stakes produce stronger roots and stems than those with stakes. A plant grows roots for stability in response to wind, so staking actually weakens the support system of a tree. Medium trees more than 6 feet in height but less than 12 feet may need to be staked to protect new roots that have begun to form. When staking a tree, two or three long wooden Page 5

6 stakes should be driven into the ground at the outside edge of the plant hole. Wires are attached to the trunk and the stakes. The wire should be wrapped to protect the tree s bark from damage. Short pieces of garden hose are often used for this purpose. Larger trees 12 feet or more in height may need guying. Guying is attaching cables from the trunk of a tree to three equally spaced ground stakes that serve as anchors. PLANTING CONTAINERIZED TREES AND SHRUBS Begin planting a containerized plant by removing the container. This can be done by inverting the plant, tapping the sides of the container on a solid surface to release the plant, and then sliding the soil ball out. Try not to disturb the soil ball. FIGURE 5. Bracing a tree by guying. Check the plant for root circling. Root circling is a condition in which the roots have become too large for the container, causing them to grow around the edge of the pot. If the plant has significant root circling, cut the roots at the edge with a knife and spread them out before planting. Generally, four or five vertical cuts from the top to the bottom of the soil ball are sufficient. Place the soil ball in a hole and check for the proper size and depth. Follow the same backfill procedures as for balled-and-burlapped stock. FIGURE 6. If the container plant s roots are circled at the edge, cut them with a knife and spread them at the bottom. Page 6

7 PLANTING ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS Annuals and perennials provide a colorful, exciting enhancement to a landscape project. They are easy to plant if the soil bed has been well prepared. The bed should be free of all grass and weeds. Organic matter, such as peat moss, compost, or manure, should be tilled into the top 6 inches of soil before planting. Be sure to take into consideration the sunshine, water, and soil ph the plants will need for optimal growth. Perennial beds need to be carefully prepared because once the plants are established, making soil improvements will be more difficult. For annuals, the goal is to create a mass of plant material. To accomplish this, the individual plants are spaced in a planting bed so that within a few weeks they will grow together and cover the soil. Depending on their type, annuals may be spaced 4, 6, 8, or 12 inches apart. Often the person planting the flowers uses a planting trowel to quickly measure the distance between plants. Annuals should be planted so the tops of the soil balls are at the surface of the soil. Once in place, the plants should be well watered. Container-grown perennials should be planted in holes the size and depth of their growing containers. Once placed, they should be well watered. Unless the flower bed is very small, plants should be clumped in same-species groupings of three or more for maximum visual impact. Generally, taller plants should be placed to the back or center of the bed, although this rule may be bent somewhat with plants that have a fine or airy texture. PLANTING GROUNDCOVERS Groundcovers are planted in much the same way as annuals and perennials. The planting bed should be well prepared through proper tillage and the addition of soil amendments. Groundcover plants should be spaced so that the area is completely covered by the end of the third growing season. Refer to reference materials to determine the recommended spacing for the groundcover to be used. Watering, especially during dry periods, is important to speed the establishment of the plants. Mulching and fertilizer applications during the growing season are also beneficial practices. POST-PLANTING CARE Once planted, trees, shrubs, and flowers need follow-up care to become established. Healthy plants translate to satisfied customers and lower costs for the business, as there is no need to replace dead plants. A few extra minutes of plant care can save time and money in having to replace a dead specimen. Watering and weeding can literally mean life or death to a newly planted specimen. Landscape fabric, mulch, and antitranspirants are valuable aids to a landscaper s arsenal in helping plants survive the stress of transplanting. Page 7

8 Landscape Fabric Landscape fabric is lightweight, woven material that allows water and air to pass to a plant s roots but restricts weed growth. Since it is unattractive by itself, it should be covered with mulch once it is installed. Landscape fabric also degrades when exposed to sunlight. The fabric is installed by rolling it out over bare soil that has been carefully weeded. If there are existing plants, Xs can be cut in the fabric and the plants threaded through them. If the fabric is placed in a new bed, Xs can be cut to allow planting. The fabric is always carefully rolled back to the base of any plant to reduce the chances of weeds getting established. Fold excess fabric under and cover all fabric with at least 4 inches of mulch. Mulch FIGURE 7. Landscape fabric is used to prevent Mulch has many benefits to a newly planted tree or shrub. Mulch is the material used around plants to weed growth in the landscape bed. reduce water loss, prevent weed growth, keep soil temperatures more uniform, protect roots, and prevent erosion. Mulch may be an organic or inorganic material. Some types of organic mulches are wood chips, pine needles, tree bark chips, shredded corncobs, cocoa bean hulls, peat moss, and salt hay. Organic mulches tend to take advantage of local products, so there is often a regional bias to the materials used. All organic mulches have a negative side effect in that they draw nutrients from the soil in their decomposition process. However, they also add organic matter back to the soil and can be very pleasing in appearance. Organic mulches usually need a yearly top-dressing to replenish them. Large-particle mulches tend to last longer. An organic mulch FIGURE 8. Wood mulch spread at the base of a tree. Page 8 u

9 should be spread 2 to 4 inches deep in the soil saucer around a tree or shrub, leaving a 2- to 3-inch clear area at the base of the plant to reduce the risk of rot or insect damage. Inorganic mulches come from nonliving substances and include such things as gravel, crushed stone, sand, brick chips, and shredded rubber. They should be used mainly for high-traffic or well-shaded areas, since they can heat up, causing undue stress on young plants. An advantage to inorganic mulches is that they are very durable and rarely if ever need top-dressing. Antitranspirants An antitranspirant is a spray or aerosol product applied to the leaves of a plant to reduce transpiration. The plant is sprayed with the antitranspirant before transport or just after being transplanted. An antitranspirant can effectively improve a plant s chances of getting a good start in its new location by counteracting the effects of root loss. Summary: Nurseries produce plants for sale as bare-root, balled-and-burlapped, or containerized stock. Bare-root plants are grown in the field and are usually harvested when dormant. The soil is removed from the roots, and the plants are stored in a cool place. Balled-and-burlapped plants are grown in the field. Each plant is dug by hand or mechanically, leaving a ball of soil around the roots. Containerized plants are grown and sold in containers, typically plastic plant pots. Specific techniques apply to the planting of each type of stock. Annuals, perennials, and groundcovers are easy to plant if the soil bed has been well prepared. Landscape fabric, mulch, and antitranspirants are valuable aids to a landscaper s arsenal in helping plants survive the stress of transplanting. Checking Your Knowledge: 1. How are nursery plants grown and packaged? 2. What steps are taken in planting balled-and-burlapped trees and shrubs? 3. How are bare-root and containerized plants planted differently from balled-and-burlapped plants? 4. How are annuals and perennials planted? 5. How do landscape fabric, mulch, and antitranspirants aid newly planted plants? Page 9

10 Expanding Your Knowledge: Practice techniques discussed in this unit to plant trees, shrubs, annuals, and perennials at home, school, or other landscape sites. Web Links: Preparation and Planting of Landscape Plants Planting Techniques for Trees and Shrubs Spacing Plant Material: Ground Covers Gardening with Annuals Transplanting Trees /publications/spfiles/sp572.pdf+transplanting+trees&hl=en&gl=us&ct =clnk&cd=8 Page 10