Tucked Roman Shade. Roman Shade $ Tucked Roman Shade Copyright of 7 Vol. 7 No. 8

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1 Tucked Roman Shade Copyright of 7 Vol. 7 No. 8

2 Tucked Roman Shade U For an outside mount add 2" to window width. Fabricate as a flush mount when possible or mount shade to back of board & use valance; top tuck will need to be adjusted to accommodate valance. U For a more contemporary look, fabricate in a sheer translucent fabric. Sheer translucent fabrics can be lined with a voile or batiste sheer fabric. (see step 12.2) U Small grommets are used in place of rings. Grommets are placed on tucks on back of shade. U Shade should have interlining or blackout lining unless using a sheer fabric. Sunlight can give fabric a washed out look. Tip: Prints can show outside at night. U Use 8" vertical spacing on shades with a FL of 48" - 65"; use 9" or 10" spacing for shades longer than 65". U Extra pleats are not needed at bottom of shade due to design of tucks. U When using a projecting board, a RollEase system may be used. (contact RollEase for directions) With this system, cord cleats are not necessary. RollEase is a clutch system for soft shades. 1. Up to 48 FW Yardage: Size Solid Fabric Yds 27" Repeat Yds Tim Yds Up to 48" FL " to 56" FL " to 72" FL " to 84" FL " to 96" FL " to 108" FL to 102 FW Yardage: Size Solid Fabric Yds 27" Repeat Yds Tim Yds Up to 48" FL " to 56" FL " to 72" FL " to 84" FL " to 96" FL " to 108" FL to 154 FW Yardage: Size Solid Fabric Yds 27" Repeat Yds Tim Yds Up to 48" FL " to 56" FL " to 72" FL " to 84" FL " to 96" FL " to 108" FL Face fabric cuts: Before cutting, steam press entire piece. This helps stop shrinkage, especially necessary for an inside mount. Width: FW + 6" + ¼" to ½" = Formula: FW plus 6" (3" for each side hem), plus ¼" to ½" (shrinkage from stitching tucks; amount of shrinkage depends on type of fabric). Length: FL + 1½" + 3" +4" + ¼" = Formula: FL, plus 1½" (per tuck), plus 3"(bottom hem), plus 4" (mounting & straightening allowance), plus ¼" (shrinkage from sun) Example: 72" FL shade would have 9 spaces, 8 tucks. Copyright of 7 Vol. 7 No. 8

3 3. Lining Interlining cuts: 1. Before cutting, steam press entire piece. 2. It is best to cut interlining & let it rest 24 hours before fabricating. (see Quick Tips Interlining) Width: To be cut down during tabling. Length: Face fabric cut length - 3" = Formula: Same as face fabric, minus 3" (bottom hem). 4. Option 1 Tabling with side hems: 1. Lay face fabric face side down > place interlining on top of face fabric > place lining right side up on top of interlining. a. Note: Interlining & lining should be placed 3" up from bottom of face fabric. 2. Square off bottom of shade with square or edge of table. 3. Fold & press doubled 1½" side hems. 4. Fold & press a doubled 1½" bottom hem. 5. Trim both sides of interlining & lining to FW of shade; trim at press line. (For a thicker looking side hem, fold interlining into side hem by only trimming off 1½" on each side of interlining instead of the 3".) 6. Pin side & bottom hems. 7. Blindstitch all side & bottom hems; some fabrics may need to be stitched by hand. (Blindstitch side hems first.) 5. Option 2 Tabling without side hems: 1. Lay face fabric face side down > place interlining on top of face fabric > trim interlining to FW of shade. (For a thicker looking side hem, fold interlining into side hem by only trimming off 1½" on each side of interlining instead of 3".) 2. Fold in 3" on each side of face fabric, do not double fold. 3. Cut lining FW of shade & fold in 1¼" on each side of lining & press. Do not fold bottom. Bottom hem will have a regular hem. 4. Square off bottom of shade with square or edge of table. 5. Lay lining with right side up on top of roman shade. Lining will be set in 1¼" on each side of shade. 6. Trim interlining 3" up from bottom. a. Lining should be placed 3" up from bottom of face fabric. 7. Lining will be secured to face fabric when tucks are sewn. Iron-on Bonding tape or Rowley Fringe Adhesive can be used to secure sides until tucks are sewn. (see Sources/Sewing Supplies) 8. Fold, press & pin a doubled 1½" bottom hem. 9. This method of finishing off the sides gives a very smooth look with no visible stitches showing from front side of shade. a. Lining will be secured to face fabric when seams are sewn to create tucks. 6. Mark lines for tucks: 1. Place shade face down. 2. Calculation formula for a 72" FL shade: a. 72" - 4¼" (bottom space) = 67½" 9 (desired spacing) = 7½ (number of spaces) 7 or 8 spaces can be used. Divide 67½ by number of spaces (8) = 8.43 (actual spacing) or round to 8½" & adjust top space. b. When mounting to back of board remember to allow for top treatment as you calculate spaces & tucks. 3. First tuck line from bottom is half the distance of tuck rows. a. Example: When vertical spacing is 8½" first tuck would be 4¼" up from bottom of shade. b. Each tuck is 1½" wide & spaced horizontally between 8" - 10" apart. (see dia. 1) 4. Mark one side of shade > fold shade in half (lengthwise) > mark opposite side of shade. 5. Open shade > use long steel rule to connect marks on sides of shades. (see dia. 1) Copyright of 7 Vol. 7 No. 8

4 Mark lines for tucks (continued): 6. Marking Tucks: a. Option 1: i. Mark only one line with a disappearing pen to represent center of tuck. ii. Fold along line & stitch over ¾" from fold line. iii. In this example (8½" spacing), the first line would be 5" up & all other lines would be 10" apart. iv. Caution: Be very accurate when marking tuck lines. b. Option 2: i. Mark two lines for each tuck with a mechanical pencil. ii. Mark a third line to represent center fold line. iii. To make stitching easier, fold each tuck in half > match lines > press. iv. Pin along pencil lines. v. Tip: Use a 1½" wide steel rule to mark lines for tucks. vi. Caution: Be very accurate when marking & pressing tuck lines. 7. Straight stitch. (see dia. 2) a. Tip: Stitch exact allowance or FL of shade will be too short. 8. Option: For softer look do not press tucks on front of shade. 9. Measure from bottom of shade to seam line of top tuck to make sure shade length is the same on both sides. Repeat this process to confirm tuck lines are same distance from bottom of shade on left & right side. 10. Mark a FL line across backside of shade with a pencil. 11. Tip: When fabricating multiple shades of the same length, tuck lines should match exactly. 7. Grommets: 1. Mark grommet placement with tiny pencil dots. (see dia. 3) a. Disappearing pens could disappear before grommets are set. 2. Horizontal spacing is 8" - 12". (see dia. 3) 3. Use #00 size grommets. a. Grommets can be purchased in brass or nickel plate finish. b. A Grommet Tool with die sets is less time consuming than hand setting grommets with a hammer. (see dia. 4) (#00 size grommets & Grommet Tool Set & die sets available from Rowley Company see Sources/Sewing supplies) Copyright of 7 Vol. 7 No. 8

5 Grommets (continued): 8. Mounting board & weight: 1. Use a 1 x 2 board. 2. Board should be cut ¼" smaller than FW of shade. 3. For projecting mount, cover board flap style. (see How To s Board Covers) 4. For flush mount, wrap board like present. (see How To s Board Covers) 5. Cut a metal rod 1½" smaller than FW of shade. a. Option 1: A ⅜" steel weight rod (BR6) can be purchased from Rowley Company. b. Option 2: Purchase ¼" or ⅜" threaded rod from a home improvement store. c. Option 3: A plain ¼" or ⅜" aluminum rod can be purchased from a metal supplier. 6. Insert rod into bottom hem & hand stitch openings closed. (see dia. 5) 7. Tip: When fabricating an extra large or heavy shade, use a 1 x 4 board with RollEase Standard clutch system with a beaded chain. a. 1 x 4 can be cut down to 2½" for a smaller projection. 8. Tip for outside mounts: Cover returns with a flap or top treatment. a. Flap should cover cord lock or RollEase clutch. b. Light gaps will be visible unless shade is mounted to back of board. 9. Mounting styles: 1. Projecting board: a. Placement of screw eyes/pulleys & cord lock or RollEase system will be on large side of board close to front of board. (see dia. 6) 2. Flush board: a. This type mount projects only ¾". b. Placement of screw eyes will be on ¾" side of board. (see dia. 7) Copyright of 7 Vol. 7 No. 8

6 Mounting styles (continued): 3. Mounting roman shade to back of projecting board: a. This mounting method is used on a door or an outside mount when light gaps are a concern. (see dia. 8) b. Insert grommets 5" down from serged top edge of shade. (see dia. 8) i. 5" includes a 2" mounting allowance. ii. Grommets should be in line with ring rows. c. Top treatment must be used to cover cord lock or RollEase System and should be at least 6" long. 10. Mounting shade on board: 1. Lay shade on table, lining side up. 2. Lay mounting board so top edge of board is at pencil line. 3. Use push pins to secure shade to board. 4. Check shade length by mounting on wall ceiling mounting stands. 5. Staple shade to mounting board. 6. Cord pulleys & cord locks can be used in place of eye screws. a. Note: Use RollEase for extra large shades available from Rowley Company. 7. Projection style: a. Pull flap over & staple. b. Mark screw eyes with an awl on large side of board toward front of board. (see step 9.1, dia. 6) (Screw Eye Driver available from Rowley Company see Sources/Workroom tools) 8. Flush mount style: a. Screw eyes will be on ¾" edge. b. Use screw eye driver tool to screw in eye screws. c. A cord cleat must be used to secure cords with this method. d. Place a screw eye or pulley at each row of grommets. (see step 9.2, dia. 7) (Screw Eye Driver available from Rowley Company see Sources/Workroom tools) 11. Stringing: 1. Determine if shade draws to right or left. 2. String shade with roman shade cord. (1.4 mm cord available from Rowley Company see Sources/Sewing supplies) 3. When using RollEase, follow their directions for stringing. 4. Start at bottom & run cord up through each row of grommets > up through screw eyes/pulleys > across board > through cord lock > down approx. ⅔ of shade. 5. Tie a roman shade ring, metal washer or use a Bottom Ring Set to secure cords at bottom grommet. (Bottom Set Rings available from RollEase see Sources/Miscellaneous) 6. Repeat steps 4 & 5 for remaining vertical rows. 7. Test shade by mounting on wall ceiling o mounting stands. 8. Raise several times to determine that shade lifts evenly. 9. When shade is lowered completely, smooth out cords > use Cord Condensers & cord pulls to finish off cords. (condensers CT 20 or CT 21 & cord pulls available from Rowley Company see Sources/Sewing supplies) 10. In accordance with child safety standards, use Cord Condensers & cord pulls to finish off cords. (Condensers CT 20 or CT 21 & cord pulls are available from Rowley Company see Sources/Sewing supplies.) Copyright of 7 Vol. 7 No. 8

7 12. Installation tips: 1. When mounting shade & top treatment on same board: a. Option 1: Cut board 2" wider than desired FW of shade; fabric for shade would be set in 1" from each side to allow for angle irons. A top treatment must be used with this option. (see dia. 9) b. Option 2: Slits can be made in back of shade to accommodate angle irons. 2. Sheer fabric tip: To conceal all lifting components mounted under board, cover a 3" wide piece of ¼" plywood with sheer fabric & staple covered plywood to front edge of mount board. 3. DO NOT INSTALL THIS SHADE IN A CHILD S ROOM. Back cords are considered hazardous to small children. Inform client of lift cords behind shade. 4. Visit for the latest safety information on fabric shades. 5. Visit Rowley Company for the latest safety products before fabricating fabric shades. Copyright of 7 Vol. 7 No. 8