Ordering Seeds. Volume 5, Issue 2

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1 Boyle County Extension Office 99 Corporate Drive Danville, KY (859) Winter 2017 Volume 5, Issue 2 Inside this issue: Ordering Seeds 1 Paperwhites 2 KY Proud Recipes 3 PBPT 4 Upcoming Classes and News Xeriscaping 6 Xeriscaping cont. 7 Kid s Corner 8 Trowel and Error 9 Plant Spotlight 9 5 Ordering Seeds Now is a good time to start ordering seed catalogs. This way you can enjoy flipping through seed catalogs, admiring all the new flowers and vegetables available during the winter month. If you have access to the internet, it is very easy to do a search for seed catalogs. Many vegetable and flower seed catalogs can be found on the internet where many of the websites have a place you can request a free catalog simply by submitting y our name and mailing address. You may also choose to save paper and browse seed catalogs on the internet instead of having catalogs mailed to you. Although most seed companies will have sufficient quantities of seed to fill orders it is still a good idea to get your orders in early so you get the seeds you want. Some companies offer early bird specials or discounts or a freebie to entice gardeners to fill their order early and not wait until the last minute. Another advantage to ordering seeds early is to allow time for gardeners who like to get a head start growing their plants early in the house or a greenhouse instead of waiting to sow seeds directly outside later in the spring. When deciding what seeds you are going to order it is a good idea to ask yourself a few questions to avoid purchases not needed, or ones that will not be successful. Although this sounds simple, the first question to ask yourself is what exactly is the plant you are thinking about buying. There are times when a plant may have a catchy name or descriptions that make them sound outstanding or be a must-have. This may lead to a situation of not getting the plant you thought you ordered. Common names can vary, but look for a Latin or scientific name, or look as to what type of plant it actually is. Another question to ask is do you really need the plant. It is easy to get caught up in all the great pictures and descriptions in those seed catalogs. The plant may sound outstanding, and it probably would perform great somewhere but remember to check on the plants growing requirements. Consider the location you plan on putting it and then see if the plant in question fits that location. Determine growing requirements like sun/shade, soil type, hardiness zone, space, and moisture needs. One other important question to ask when ordering seeds is how pest prone the plant is, and does the type you are considering have any disease or pest resistance. It is especially important to look for disease resistant varieties of vegetables when there has been a history of diseases in the location. The best example of this is ordering tomato seeds. Look for the tomato varieties with all those letters at the end of the tomato name. For example letters at the end of a tomato variety name maybe VFNT. These letters refer to resistance of certain diseases like Verticullium wilt, Fusarium wilts (race 1 or race 2 or both), nematodes, tobacco mosaic virus, etc. The more letters at the end of a tomato s name, the better off you ll be. Source: Jessica Strickland, North Carolina Cooperative Extension

2 P a ge 2 T h e Boyle Co. T h ymes V olume 5, I s s u e 2 Paperwhites Paperwhite Narcissus is one of the easiest flower bulbs for home-owners to force. Commercially, several types are available. Some cultivars have pure white flowers while others have white perianths with light yellow cups. Paperwhites originate in the Mediterranean and are tender bulbs. Thus, they can be grown outside only in Climatic Zones 8 to 11. Unless one lives in one of these zones, forced bulbs should be discarded. Planting and Watering: containers without drainage holes Planting Paperwhites can be forced using 3-4 deep decorative containers that do not have drainage holes. To force the bulbs using this system: 1. Place 1-2 of washed gravel or stones in the bottom of the container. 2. Carefully place bulbs on gravel or stones 3. Subsequently, place enough gravel or stones over or around the bulbs to hold them in place. Watering Add just enough water to bring it to base of the bulbs and subsequently, maintain it at this level. Do not immerse the bulbs in water, only the basal (root) plate should be in water. Planting and Watering: containers with drainage holes Planting Use a well drained, ph 6-7, sterilized planting medium. Any width pot can be used, it depends on the number of bulbs to be forced. However, use a pot that is 3-4 deep, and plant the bulbs with the noses even or slightly below the rim of the pot. Watering After planting, water the medium thoroughly, and keep moist! General Care Temperature Initially, use a 60F to 65F area in the home. When in flower, use the coolest area of the home. Light Paperwhiles will flower under any light conditions. However, for best results, initially place them in a window area with southern exposure. When the plants begin to flower, remove them from direct sunlight and place plants in coolest area of the home. This helps to prolong the flowering of the plants. Tips Fertilization None is required for forcing. Many varieties can get tall and frequently flop. So, to combat this issue, you may want to give your bulbs a shot of alcohol. A study conducted by the Flower Bulb Research Program at Cornell University, fount that watering a plant with a 4%-6% alcohol solution will actually stunt its growth by one-half to one-third without affecting the suze or number of flowers. Once the plants are rooted and 1-2 tall, replace the water with the diluted alcohol. Use any alcohol, from rubbing alcohol, to gin, or rum. Don t use beer or wine because of their high sugar content. Stay well under 10% alcohol; a 25% dilution will almost certainly be toxic. For a 5% solution: divide alcohol content of the spirit by 5 and the resulting number will give you the dilution. As an example, if the alcohol content is 40, dividing by 5 give you 8. therefore, you need an eight-part solution: one part alcohol and seven parts water.

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4 P a ge 4 T h e Boyle Co. T h ymes V olume 5, I s s u e 2 Produce Best Practices Training (PBPT) Replaces Current GAP Training The previous GAP curriculum has been updated and now includes some of the basic principles of the Food Safety Modernization Act as well as other updates. Eventually everyone who trained in GAP previously will need to retrain in PBPT. The timeline for retraining requirements go like this: Now-01/2019 Many agents will begin offering PBPT to their cleints. Old GAP diplomas are still valid for Sampling Certificates. January 2019 All new trainings will be PBPT. Old GAP diplomas are still valid for Sampling Certificates. January 2020 All growers needing food safety training should have gone through the updated PBPT training. Note this includes those who previously completed GAP training. Old GAP diplomas are no longer valid for Sampling Certificates. Growers must complete PBPT to get sampling certificates. What is Produce Best Practices Training? PBPT directly replaces the GAP Training/Education program introduced in 2008 that more than 5,000 KY producers have completed. Renamed to help alleviate confusion between GAP Certificates and Third Party GAP Audits and Tobacco GAP. Revised to educate about FSMA requirements and the latest on produce safety. Is the new basic training requirement for All Samples certificate from KDA Still delivered by your extension agent Who Needs to Complete PBPT? Anyone wishing to acquire a Farmers Market All- Samples certificate Anyone seeking a general overview of major produce food safety concerns When Do I Need to Complete PBPT? All current GAP diplomas are valid until January 1, 2019 PBPT will be available to producers state-wide starting January 1, 2018 (some counties may not offer this program before this date). Sampling certificate protocols should remain the same--all that's changing is the training. For more information visit Or contact your local extension office.

5 T h e Boyle Co. T h ymes V olume 5, I s s u e 2 P a ge 5 Upcoming Classes and News Classes are subject to cancel if not enough people call to register. Please call ahead even if class is free! Regrow Your Kitchen Scraps: Monday 11/6/17 6pm Boyle Co. Library Winter Bulbs (paperwhites): Thursday 11/16/17 2:30pm BCEO Thanksgiving Holiday: 11/23 11/24 OFFICE IS CLOSED Boyle Co. Extension Council Meeting: Tuesday 12/5/15 6:30pm BCEO Christmas Holiday: 12/25/17 1/1/18 OFFICE IS CLOSED Produce Best Practices Training: Monday1/22/18 5:30pm BCEO You MUST call to register! Produce Best Practices Training: Tuesday 1/23/18 1:00pm BCEO You MUST call to register! Kentucky Volunteer Forum: 2/8 2/10 Scroll down to see list of horticulture classes!

6 P a ge 6 T h e Boyle Co. T h ymes V olume 5, I s s u e 2 Let s put the notion to rest once and for all: The term Xeriscape is not pronounced zeroscape. Granted, some detractors use the mispronunciation as a joke, but far too many sincerely believe it. Xeriscape stems from the root word xeric in essence, dry. To get wordsmithy about it, the definition of xeric is: characterized by, relating to, or requiring only a small amount of moisture. So much for the word itself; it seems pretty clear. A common misconception remains, however, and it s easily debunked. The practice does not limit an installation to cactus and concrete, and until they re established, plants do need a bit of supplemental water. Rather than paving over the back yard with concrete, says Dan DeGrush, homeowners can have a xeric landscape with several different species of plants. You can have purples, reds, yellows, whites; there really are a lot of color options and plants that flower at all times of the year. DeGrush is a designer with Lifescape Associates, a design/build firm in Denver, where the concept of Xeriscape originated. Still, he says, I ve seen people put concrete in their front yards just to avoid watering. Seven principles of Xeriscape 1. Planning and design 2. Soil improvement 3. Appropriate plant selection 4. Practical turf areas 5. Efficient irrigation 6. Use of mulch 7. Appropriate maintenance The Basics of Xeriscape Landscaping Sally Benson, American Nurseryman The need is now At its very core, Xeriscape is a way of landscaping that promotes water conservation, and no matter where the landscape is located, that s a noble goal. But it s ever more critical given that a significant part of the country is continuing to experience drought. The past couple of years have seen record heat and aridity, and the U.S. Drought Monitor, the arid-conditions watchdog for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, predicts that drought will persist or worsen in the next several months across well more than half of the nation. What seems like a reasonable idea conserving water use in managed landscapes soon may be a requirement. A Xeriscape installation doesn t mean no water is needed; without sensible application of supplemental irrigation, no garden can establish. As DeGrush explains, a successful low-water landscape actually requires attention to three things: Plant selection, soil preparation and your irrigation system. In the Denver area, where DeGrush works, and all along the Front Range, irrigation systems are paramount, he says. There s just not enough water to keep newly planted plants alive. Planning for long-term success What s needed even before the first sketch is drawn, DeGrush explains, is to help your clients and customers set the right expectations. Show them the variety of colorful plants that can fill a beautiful, low-water garden, and then help them understand that lush isn t instantaneous. The majority of plants take about three years to establish themselves, he says, and unless your client accepts that, she s bound to be disappointed. The first year, he says, all you really care about is the root system. You don t really care if there are that many flowers on the plant, because it s putting energy into root growth. Continue on Page 7

7 T h e Boyle Co. T h ymes V olume 5, I s s u e 2 P a ge 7 The second year, he continues, you get a mix of everything: You re focusing on root growth; you re watching the plant get a little larger; you re getting some flowering, but the plant is not at its peak. The third year that s when the plant is happy underground, and because it s spending less energy on its root system, it can spend it on flowers and vegetation. The plants are starting to live on their own; they need less help from the irrigation system that they absolutely needed in their first two years. A bit of water goes a long way The benefit of drip irrigation in a Xeriscape garden, he says, is that the system targets only the part of the plant that needs water the roots. And if you install a zoned, ET-based smart system, you can manage water use for each specific microclimate on the property. If you ve got a part of the garden that s on the south, that s all sun and slope, DeGrush explains, you can program the system differently than for the north side, in the back, where water is needed less. Further, he continues, you can turn it down in the third year, and you re not only saving water, you re saving more money. Clients may balk at the cost of a high-end irrigation program, but as DeGrush points out, the local municipality just might offer some assistance. In Castle Rock and Aurora, Colo., for example, homeowners can receive rebates for installing water-saving irrigation systems. If you can save a few bucks that way, DeGrush says, you can put the money into more plants. A couple hundred dollars on a rebate; that s a good situation for [the homeowner]. Is it just for deserts? Although Xeriscape as a design concept began in a dry, High Plains town, the approach is appropriate in any location where water must be conserved. As DeGrush says, Even in deserts, there can be extremely diverse areas, with diverse plant species. Transitional spaces are especially good candidates for xeric gardens, where plants can help to blend the installed landscape with the natural. And these tend to be spaces where supplemental water may be difficult to come by. It took off in Colorado where, DeGrush says, There are great transitional spaces because the grasslands have been here forever, and if you re going to connect the [built] landscape to that space, bringing in lots of color is what we re after. Sourcing your plants locally is a good idea, but be sure to talk with your grower and understand which plants do best to provide abundant color and interesting form while requiring very little input. Xericape planting is very microclimate-driven, DeGrush says. Areas on the same property can differ in terms of sun, slope, deer pressure, water, soil different plants will tolerate different conditions. But with a good irrigation system, selecting the right plants and prepping the soil properly, you can get all these sites to look good. If your suburban clients have a borrowed vista, you can make the most of it with a transitional dry garden. If they live in town, you ll save them from battling the water district and you ll save them money by applying a few Xeriscape principles. Just assure them that they can have easy care, lower utility bills and lots of vibrant color. Source:

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9 T h e Boyle Co. T h ymes V olume 5, I s s u e 2 P a ge 9 Trowel & Error : Landscape Sanitation Good sanitation practices can help reduce disease-causing pathogens. These organisms can survive for months or years on dead plant material or in soil, causing infections in subsequent years. Elimination of disease-causing organisms reduces the need for chemical controls and can improve the effectiveness of disease management practices. Following these sanitation practices both in autumn and throughout the growing season can reduce disease pressure in home and commercial landscapes. Remove diseased plant tissues from infected plants. Prune cankers and galls from branches by making cuts well below visible symptoms. Clean tools between each cut with a sanitizer, such as rubbing alcohol or household bleach. Rake and remove fallen buds, flowers, twigs, leaves, and needles. Discard all above- and below-ground portions of heavily infected perennial and annual plants. Severely infected trees and shrubs should be cut down and stumps removed/destroyed. All discarded plant material should be burned, buried, or removed with yard waste. Do not compost diseased plant material. Exercise caution when storing limbs and trunks as fire wood or using for mulch. Soil from containers should be discarded and not reused. Remove weeds, including roots, which may serve as alternate hosts for pathogens. Plant Spotlight! Eastern Wahoo Euonymus atropurpureus Not all Euonymus is bad! Unlike the invasive Burning Bush Euonymus alatus, Eastern Wahoo is a deciduous, Kentucky native shrub or small tree which is most often grown for its attractive red berries and fall color. Occurs in the wild in open woods and thickets, near streams and on wooded slopes throughout the State. Typically appears as an upright, spreading, deciduous shrub with an irregular crown growing to 10-15' (less frequently to 25') tall. Dark green elliptic to ovate leaves (to 5" long) turn dull red to greenish red in fall. Small, purple flowers appear in the leaf axils in late spring but are not particularly showy. Scarlet red fruits (1/2" capsules) appear in autumn. Fruit is attractive to wildlife and is often considered to be the best ornamental feature of the shrub. Although the bark, leaves and fruits of eastern wahoo were formerly used for a variety of medicinal purposes, all parts of the plant are poisonous if ingested. It is easily grown in average, medium, well-drained soil in full sun to part shade. Adaptable shrub which tolerates wide range of soils and full shade. Will not tolerate wet, poorly-drained soil, however.

10 Boyle County Extension Office 99 Corporate Drive Danville, KY Normally as the cold sets in, I feel a little sadness as the season comes to an end. This year s growing season was so abnormally long however, I m honestly not that sad to see it go. My soul is ready for a good rest, and I m ready to drop my leaves and go dormant for the winter ha ha I hope those of you who are currently receiving my weekly horticulture blog are enjoying it! If you have not yet signed up, type in the link in red at the bottom of this page into your internet browser and get on the list! If you have any topics you would like to know more about, please let me know! You must fail at gardening to master it. Have a wonderful holiday season, and I look forward to catching up again soon! As always, keep calm, and trust your horticulturist. To sign up for the Horticulture Blog, put in your address and name here: Alexis Amorese Sheffield Boyle Co. Horticulture Agent Like our Facebook for weekly updates on what your cooperative extension is up to!