HORTICULTURE NEWSLETTER

Transcription

1 HORTICULTURE NEWSLETTER February 2016 IN THIS ISSUE : 2-IPM 3- Diatomaceous Earth 4 - Homestead Chickens 5-Composting Poultry Litter 6 - Homestead Income Options 7 - Perennial Garden Prep 10 Orchard Upcoming Classes February 12th 6pm Garden Prep March 11th 6pm Landscape Design, this is a 4 part class and participation is required in all classes. All classes offered by the Horticulture Program require preregistration. If you fail to preregister classes may be full, rescheduled or cancelled. Please call , to RSVP, if you plan on attending a class. Cooperative Extension Service Bullitt County 384 Halls Ln. Shepherdsville, Ky (502) Fax: (502) Master Gardener Association Meeting Horticulture Council Meeting follows Meetings are the first Tuesday of each month Call for time of meeting. Congratulations to the Newest Master Gardener Members Jean, Dave, Janet, Becca, and Jerry with Horticulture Agent Lorilee George April 6 6pm Dish Gardens April pm Grafting Fruit Trees Please RSVP if you plan to attend any of our classes In case of inclement weather, if Bullitt County Schools are closed, then classes at the Extension Office are cancelled. Lorilee George Lorilee George Bullitt County Extension Agent for Horticulture

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3 Diatomaceous Earth Diatomaceous earth (DE) is an inert dust harvested from sediments at the bottom of oceans, lakes, and rivers. It comes from a type of singlecelled algea with shells made of silicon dioxide. Once harvested it is dried into a fine white dust, which is an extremely effective reduced risk pesticide. It causes insects to dry out and die by absorbing the oils and fats from the cuticle of the insect s exoskeleton. It remains effective as long as it is kept dry and undisturbed. Products containing diatomaceous earth are most commonly dusts. Other formulations include wettable powders and pressurized liquids. Some products can also be used directly on dogs and cats. Read labels for product recommendations and registered use against bed bugs, cockroaches, crickets, fleas, ticks, spiders which may have additional pesticides added. Diatomaceous earth is used to control slugs, millipedes, sow bugs, cockroaches, ants and softbodied insects like aphids. It has low mammalian toxicity. Natural grade should be used, not the type used as a filtering agent in swimming pools. There are thousands of non-pesticide products that contain diatomaceous earth. These include skin care products, toothpaste, foods, beverages, medicines, and water filters. Silicon is a major component of diatomaceous earth. It is the second most abundant element in soils. It is abundant in plants and plays a role in their growth and development. Due to its chemical makeup, DE is not degraded by microbes or by sunlight. It does not emit vapors or dissolve well in water. The ocean contains vast 3 amounts of diatomaceous earth. Many marine organisms use it to build their skeletons. DE is practically non-toxic to fish and aquatic invertebrates. It is commonly encountered by birds and other wildlife, and it s not know to be harmful. When applying diatomaceous earth (or any fine dust) in large amounts, you should wear gloves, a face mask, and protective goggles. If breathed in, in dust form, it can irritate the nose and nasal passages. Application of DE in dry form can be made with a flour sifter, turkey baster or sprinkled around baseboards, in window sills, and beneath refrigerators or stoves. It can be mixed with water into a spray receptacle and apply a thick coat on the tops and undersides of plants. As with any pesticide application, effective pest control also involves addressing the root of the problem. Why the pests are present in the first place. Compliment DE applications with good IPM techniques. Food grade DE is non-toxic and is even allowable on organic labeled foods by the USDA. The names and labels for food grade DE and general pest control DE are often very similar, so labels should be read carefully. Sources of information for this article: Clemson Cooperative Extension Home & Garden Information (HGIC2770) Arizona Cooperative Extension Pest Press Issue 6 NPIC diatomaceous earth general fact sheet Diatomaceousearth.com-how to apply diatomaceous earth

4 Chickens Before you buy chickens, there are many preparations to make. Adequate housing of 3-4 square foot of floor space, per chicken, is a good rule of thumb. Safe housing to keep out predators is a must. A good fence will protect your birds as well as keep them confined to the area you want them to roam. There are many varieties of chicken breeds, developed for egg, meat and even good looks. Certain breeds are better than others for backyard conditions. Medium to large breeds are good for colder climates. Rhode Island reds lay brown eggs, have dark red feathers and are a dual purpose breed most often used for laying. Wyandotte lay brown eggs, are great for small flocks and rugged conditions, and come in many color varieties. Ameraucana lays green eggs, are tolerant to all climates, have many color varieties, and is very mild tempered. Orpington lay brown eggs, has many color varieties, and are ideal for cold weather because of their larger size. All four of these breeds are good layers and also good for meat production. Chickens eat grains, fruits, and vegetables as well as insects. They should typically be fed a prepared feed that is balanced for vitamins, minerals, and protein. A laying hen diet should contain crushed oystershell for egg production, and grit for digestion. A six pound hen will eat roughly 3 pounds of feed a week. They love fruit and vegetable scraps from the kitchen and garden. They will also keep bugs, in your yard and garden, from becoming such a problem. 4 Laying hens need nest boxes for laying those wonderful eggs, unless you want to have to search the chicken yard for them. A roosting spot at a high elevation is also a must. Chicken coops must provide protection from the weather as well as predators. Winter months will require an area with a light bulb or heat lamp as well as ventilation for fresh air. The main predators of chickens are raccoons, rats, owls, hawks, and cats. Even small holes must be sealed to prevent snakes from stealing eggs and small chicks. Chickens need to be fed and given fresh water daily. They need to be let out of the coop each morning and put back in at dusk. Eggs should be gathered twice a day. The coop and pen will need to be cleaned weekly to maintain odor and be sanitary. Chickens raised in backyard settings generally stay healthy. Healthy birds will be active and alert. They will move around, pecking, scratching, and rolling in the dust. Chickens that are healthy and active will also talk and sing quietly. Chickens can also be pastured in moveable shelters. This reduces cleaning time and free fertilizer for your yard and fields. The birds will also be contained to only the areas you want them to graze. Simply move the location of the house as often as you wish to what ever location you want. Hens begin laying at around six months of age and can continue to lay for 5-10 years. They will lay roughly 6 eggs each week. They need hours of light each day to continue egg production. A regular lightbulb will supply extra light on shorter days. Hens molt (replace their feathers), in the early fall, and egg production will decrease then. Be sure to check city and county regulations regarding poultry ownership. Source/University of Minnesota Extension-Small Farms/Backyard Chickens

5 Composting and using Poultry Waste in the Home Garden Having chickens means managing the waste products of the birds. The manure and bedding litter can create odors and attract flies. Composted poultry waste, on the other hand, can be an excellent resource for amending and fertilizing garden soils. Properly composted poultry waste provides a good source of nutrients for the garden, improves soil texture, and creates the opportunity for sustainable home food production. Also consider using composted litter to raise worms. The worms can then be used to feed the chickens or as a source of income. Before starting a compost pile, check with your local city or county government to find out if there are any regulations or ordinances governing poultry waste disposal in your area. Also, always remember to be a good neighbor and keep the location of the compost pile where it will not cause a problem for others. All waste should be treated and handled as though it might contain harmful bacteria. Be sure to take precautions to minimize potential health risks. Wash hands and clothing thoroughly after handling the birds or their waste. If using litter as a source of organic matter and fertility in the garden, employ a minimum 120-day waiting period between application and harvest. This period is needed to allow time for natural death of harmful bacteria, and can occur while the litter is in the compost pile or it can occur after it is applied in the garden. Poultry manure composted for a minimum of 120 days can be applied to the garden in either fall or spring with fewer health safety concerns. Raw manure should not be applied to seedlings or growing plants. If applying composted poultry litter to the garden, do so prior to planting time. To best control the quality of the final compost product, the method to use is active pile composting. This is done by making a large pile of litter, adding and maintaining sufficient water to make the pile moist throughout, and turning the pile regularly to add oxygen until it has completely decomposed. The length of time to complete composting depends on pile temperature and the attention given to the composting process (frequency of turning, moisture levels in the pile, and the initial makeup of the pile s components). Active pile composting takes effort but results in a high-quality product that can be added to the garden with confidence. If a strong ammonia odor develops, then you need to adjust the mixture so it contains more carbon. This can be done by adding more brown waste such as straw, dried leaves, dried grass clippings or shredded paper. Sheet composting can be done directly in the garden by applying a layer of raw poultry litter to the soil and leaving it on the surface or tilling it in to decompose. Control over product quality is low with this method. Weed seeds may also be introduced because the garden soil does not heat up the way a compost pile does. Proper waste management begins in the coop. Poultry houses should have adequate ventilation to allow moisture in manure to evaporate. Routine cleaning has a direct effect on the nutrient content of composted litter. Frequency of cleaning depends on the number of birds in the coop. Cleaning is best scheduled based on the amount of litter with a ratio of 20-40% manure to 60-80% bedding. The amount of manure relative to the amount of bedding in the litter influences the biological processes that take place during composting, the nutrient content in the final compost and the quantity of potentially damaging salts that compost could contain. 5 Source:University of Idaho Extension CIS 1194

6 Choices for Earning Money Homesteading Before considering selling any livestock, food, or any product, always check local laws and regulations as well as those of the state you live in. Some money making ventures may have fewer hoops to jump through. For instance it may be easier to sell live chickens than processed meat or eggs. The following list is just a small number of ideas. The possibilities are endless. Try to stay with what you are really interested in and this will make your efforts more fun and less work. Poultry: eggs, live chickens, turkeys, chicks, meat, ducks, heritage breeds Goats and Sheep: milk, cheese, live goats and kids, soap, wool, hand made products from the wool, meat Herbs: fresh, live plants, soap and beauty products, baked goods, dried packets Kitchen products: baked goods using farm fresh products, jams and jellies, teach classes Bees: live bees, rental hives, fresh honey, food and beauty products, beeswax Worms: use composted manure from your homestead to further this venture: local bait shops, mail order, sell composting worms at farmers markets, teach children in schools Wood: tree farm, woodworking such as chairs or benches, shavings for animal bedding, firewood U Pick Farm: raise vegetables, berries, fruit, pumpkins, have field trips for local schools, include petting zoo Photography and weddings: set up your property in beautiful venues for weddings and photo opportunities Pick what you are most interested in and research what you can do. Check with the Extension Office for more information. Fruit and vegetables: sell at local farmers markets, jams and jellies, local stores and restaurants, co-ops, large canneries 6

7 Perennial Bed Preparation Successful perennial gardens start with thorough and thoughtful bed preparation. Some of the key points include: eliminating weeds before turning the soil: insuring a well drained soil that will retain enough moisture for good plant growth; providing for sufficient organic matter in the soil; and adding fertilizer as needed. The first step in soil preparation is to get rid of perennial weeds before you turn the first spade of soil. When establishing new beds in grassed areas or in areas with perennial weeds, apply a nonselective, systemic herbicide to the area. Apply this material to weeds that are actively growing, generally when temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees. Spring applications are good, being sure to follow label directions for mixing and applying. After vegetation is brown, you can till the area. A second application may be needed for stubborn aggressive weeds. Well-drained soil is essential in order to grow perennials successfully but is most critical when it comes to overwintering perennials. During bed preparation, add organic matter to a depth of 3-4 inches on top of the bed and work it into about inches of soil. Fertilizer requirements can be determined by doing a soil test. Any recommended addition of fertilizer should be tilled in at the time of bed preparation. The bottom line is, don t short cut bed preparation. Organic matter improves the structure and aeration of clay soil and improves moisture and nutrient retention in sandy soil. Organic materials to consider would include compost, peat moss, composted barks, leaf compost, mushroom compost, and composted manure. Source: University of Illinois Extension/ Gardening with Perennials Bed Prep 7

8 Saturday April 30th, am-2pm Rain or Shine 384 Halls Ln/BC Extension Office Vegetables, Herbs, Flowers, Tropicals, Bird Houses, Koi, Native Plants, Blueberries, Ironwork and more For vendor information or questions Call Vendor Booths $20 Save The Date Master Gardener President, Dave Puckett, has been working hard to get vendors for this years sale! It is shaping up to be even larger and better than last year. The next newsletter will have more information on what vendors will be there and what they will be selling. 8

9 2016 Bluegrass Beekeeping School will be March 12 The 2016 Bluegrass Beekeeping School will be held at Kentucky State University in Frankfort, KY on March 12. Registration will begin at 8:00 a.m. ET with the opening session starting at 9:00 a.m. The school will end at 3:30 p.m. Pre-registration is requested but not required. The pre-registration form can be printed and mailed with the registration fee. Early registration fees are $25 / adult or $10 / high school or younger child if paid by Feb. 27. Lunch is included with all preregistrations. Registration at the door is $35 / adult or $15 / child. The form for registration at the door can be printed and brought with you to the event. Special family rates are available for those who pre-register and for those who register at the door. Vendors will be available for all your beekeeping supply needs. If you would like to be a vendor, please complete and send back the vendor registration form. For more information contact Michael Walsh at

10 Planting an Orchard this Spring? Rasberries and Blackberries Rasberries: Late Winter/Early Spring The proper site for a new fruit orchard is an important decision for successful fruit production. Here are a few guidelines to follow. Soil Fruit trees prefer a well-drained soil. Avoid areas with a high water table. Loam, clay loam, or sandy loam soils are better-suited for fruit trees than very sandy or heavy clay soils. A ph range of 5.5 to 7.0 is recommended for most trees. Physiographic Factors Fruit trees require good air flow. Low spots where cold air settles and sites surrounded by buildings or shade trees result in winter cold and spring frost injury. Most fruit trees are best suited for north or east facing slopes that delay bud break in the spring, reducing the chances of spring frost injury. In Kentucky, regular irrigation is necessary during hot summers, promoting proper growth and cropping. Particularly if soil is shallow. Climate Factors Fruit trees need about 8 hours of sun each day. Choose a planting site that receives full sun as early in the day as possible. Morning sun dries dew off the foliage quickly which minimizes disease. Plant fruit trees away from taller shade trees in order to provide adequate light and to minimize root competition. Prune all canes that bore fruit last year: they won t fruit again. Look for grayish canes with peeling bark. Remove any canes that have grown outside of designated row footprint. Remove any spindly and short canes. Thin canes so that there about 4-5 of the healthiest, tallest and fattest canes are left. Tie remaining canes to fencing. Force everbearing raspberries to produce only one crop in the fall by pruning back the entire raspberry bush in early spring. As the canes grow back in the summer, remove outside suckers and thin the canes to about 6 inches apart. Keep the sturdiest canes. Blackberries: Early Spring Thin canes to about 5-7 per plant. Prune side branches on remaining canes to about 12 inches or 12 buds. Tie the pruned canes to fencing. Newly planted blackberry plants should have the growing tips pruned or pinched off, to encourage side shoots. This is where next seasons blackberries will grow. Source: UK HortFact-3005 by Joe Masabni and John Strang 10

11 Congratulations Ray Armstrong for winning the Dr. John Strang Award In Recognition of Outstanding Service to the Fruit Growers of Kentucky and the Horticulture Industry. This award was given to Ray at the 2016 Kentucky Fruit and Vegetable Conference 11

12 Cooperative Extension Service University of Kentucky Bullitt County 384 Halls Ln. Shepherdsville Ky, 40165