CITY OF POWELL PARKWAY / STREET TREE PLANTING AND ESTABLISHMENT GUIDELNES

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1 CITY OF POWELL PARKWAY / STREET TREE PLANTING AND ESTABLISHMENT GUIDELNES Permit Process How to Select a Healthy Tree Street Tree Planting Location Proper Tree Care and Maintenance

2 Introduction The City of Powell and its residents have long enjoyed the benefits that trees provide. They clean the air, provide shade, add value to property, control storm water runoff, and stabilize the soil, to name a few. They are aesthetically pleasing, give us a sense of well-being and help make our streets, neighborhoods and business areas more vibrant and attractive. This booklet is designed to provide basic information to help you choose the right tree for the right place, to provide guidance on selecting a healthy tree, and how to properly plant and care for your tree. The Powell Arboretum provides a place to go and view trees as they grow and develop over time. The variety of species there will allow you to see how they look and thrive in growing conditions that are particular to Powell. While the species may change over time. The way they are planted, staked, mulched, and cared for will basically remain the same. The various sections of this handbook give you specific information on caring for your tree throughout the course of its life. From obtaining a planting permit to selecting a tree, care and maintenance of it to maturity and beyond, you will find this as a guide to making your property, your neighborhood, and your City a more beautiful, healthier, and greener place to live. Del Barton City Arborist / Parks Superintendent

3 TABLE OF CONTENTS Section Page A. Street Tree Planting Permits and Information B. Memorial and Dedication Tree Planting C. Powell Arboretum D. Tree Selection Guidelines E. Tree Species Recommendation F. Right Tree in the Right Place G. New Tree Planting, Staking and Mulching Guidelines H. Tree Watering I. Tree and Shrub Soil Challenges J. Significant Tree Diseases and Insects of the Powell Area K. Understanding and Identifying Tree Defects L. Managing Your Trees and Shrubs: A Decision Guide M. City of Powell Street Tree Maintenance Cost Share Program N. City of Powell Tree Ordinances

4 SECTION A STREET TREE PLANTING PERMITS THE TREE PLANTING PERMIT WILL INSURE THAT YOU PLANT THE RIGHT TREE IN THE RIGHT PLACE A permit is required to plant any tree in any City park, or on any other City property (Includes streets, alleys, boulevards or other public ways). Permit applications may be obtained from the City Clerk and must be approved by the City Arborist. There is no fee for this permit The City arborist will assist Property Owners within the City with the proper tree location and help select the appropriate tree varieties. This will ensure that the tree provides maximum benefits and requires minimal maintenance in the future. Contact the City Arborist before you purchase your tree. Contact Number: City Arborist City of Powell Tree Planting Permit This permit is completed, signed and returned to the City Arborist before the purchase and installation of a deciduous or evergreen tree or shrub is installed on City easement or Right-of- Way. Once this permit has been completed and an underground utility clearance check will be made, the resident may proceed with tree and/or shrub planting. There is no fee for this permit. To provide for the best opportunity of tree or shrub survival refer to the appropriate mulching, watering, and fertilization guidelines provided in the City of Powell Street Tree Planting and Establishment Guidelines. Address of tree planting location Location of the tree(s) on the property (E, W, N, S) Property owner name Tree species to be planted

5 Signature of property owner agreeing to terms of tree care Date Signature of City Arborist Date Further information on this permit, tree planting requirements or the City of Powell Parkway/Street Tree Planting and Establishment Guidelines can be obtained by contacting; City Clerk City Arborist City Ordinance Permits Required 3/14

6 SECTION B Memorial and Dedication Tree Planting CITY OF POWELL PARKS DEPARTMENT MEMORIAL AND DEDICATION TREE Trees provide many benefits to people, wildlife and the community. From the cooling summer shade to the fruit they bear that feed birds and animals, or the wonderful fall colors of the leaves, there is always a reason to have a tree growing nearby. We celebrate many special events in our lives. The birth of a child, a commitment to marriage, a high school or college graduate, or the passing of a loved one. Trees have always been used to mark a special occasion. If you are interested in having a tree planted to honor a special occasion or memoriam in one of the City parks please complete the form below. Name of requesting person Address of requesting person Phone number of requesting person Name of dedicated gift recipient (as it will appear on a 4 x 6 brass plaque) Address of dedication gift recipient (a letter, map, photo will be sent) Information on 4 x 6 brass dedication plaque (10 word limit) Type of tree to be planted (circle): Shade tree $250 Flowering tree $ Evergreen $250 Requested park location Thank you for your request to have a tree planted for someone. It is the gift that keeps on giving. Please make a check or money order to City of Powell, Attention: Parks Department, 270 N. Clark Street, Powell, WY Any questions can be directed to the City Arborist at (307) , Monday through Friday, 8 am 3 pm.

7 City of Powell Tree Donation Form The City of Powell Parks Department has 10 parks covering over 100 acres of land. You can help support our parks by purchasing a tree, with a commemorative or recognition plaque. Your donation can make a difference and provide a lasting benefit for future generations. The donation may be a tax deductible contribution (consult a tax advisor for information). Individuals may recommend a specific location for placement of the tree, however the final placement will be determined by the parks staff. All trees are guaranteed for one year from the day of planting. If the tree fails to thrive, it will be replaced free of charge. Tree Donation You can choose the type of tree you wish to dedicate from the list provided. Shade trees ($250) include locust, elm, linden and oak. Flowering ornamental trees ($200 - $300) are smaller trees that usually have delightful flowers or fruit and include crabapple and cherry. Evergreen trees are shorter, usually 3-5 and include spruce and pine ($250). You can donate a tree at any time of the year, trees are actually planted in the spring (April 1-May 30) and in the fall (October 1 November 20). Plaque Guidelines Plaque messages are limited to 24 characters. Sample messages are In loving memory of John Smith, In honor of John and Jane on their 50th anniversary. All messages are subject to Powell Parks Department approval. The plaques will accompany the donated tree and depending on the location of the tree will be placed with the tree or on the Donor Tree Sign located on Bent Street. The price of the donations includes costs associated with installation of the tree and the plaque. Powell City Parks Tree Donor Application Donors Name: Address: City: Zip: Telephone: Please check your donation: Tree: Shade $ Flowering Ornamental $200 - $ Evergreen $250 Plaque Message:

8 (Please print exactly as you want it to appear, 24 letters maximum) Recommended location for placement of tree: Name of the City Park or Arboretum Please make checks payable to the City of Powell. If you have any questions or for more information please contact the Powell Parks Department at: Phone: (307) or

9 SECTION C Powell Arboretum

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13 SECTION D Tree Selection Guidelines When selecting a healthy tree, verify the following standards and characteristics prior to purchasing any tree stock. Your City Arborist will provide a list of approved trees for you to choose from. If you want a tree that is no on this list, ask the Arborist if the desired tree is appropriate for the location. The following guidelines are used when selecting an appropriate tree. Standards Power Lines The mature height of the tree must stay at least 5' below power lines. Do not confuse communication lines for power lines. The presence of powerlines will be marked on the permit. Building Setback - The crown of a tree at maturity should not be in serious conflict with neighboring structures. Clearance over streets and sidewalks - As trees grow, they will need pruning to provide clearance of at least 8' over sidewalks, 15' over residential streets, and 18' over main arterial streets to meet City Ordinance. Size of tree when planted- standard tree size is 2" caliper or larger for single-family residential and 1.5" caliper or larger for non-residential sites and sites prone to vandalism. Typical Desired Characteristics - Strong, well-developed leader with good trunk taper - Bright healthy bark - Healthy buds - Trunk & limbs free of insect or mechanical injury - Branches well distributed around trunk and of considerably smaller caliper than the trunk. - Ideal spacing between branches of at least 8-12 inches for most species - Wide-angle crotches for strength - Low branches are good for aiding trunk taper development and promoting trunk caliper growth. Low branches should be removed from street trees in order to meet clearance requirement, (within the first 2 years) - If bare root, abundant root growth, with numerous fibrous roots. - If balled & burlaps: Firm soil with trunk securely tied. Do not accept a tree with a broken root ball.

14 SECTION E Recommended Tree Species Selection Shade Tree Options American Elm (Ulmus americana var. Patriot, Prairie Expedition) Box elder (Acer negundo) Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis) Northern Catalpa (Catalpa speciosa) Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos var. Skyline, Shademaster, Thornless) Kentucky Coffeetree (Gymnocladus diocius) Littleleaf Linden (Tilia cordata var. Greenspire) American Linden (Tilia americana) Burr Oak (Quercus macrocarpa) Burenglish Oak (Quercus macropcarp x robur) Ornamental Tree Options Cheyenne Amur Maple (Acer ginnala) Japanese Ivory Silk Lilac Tree (Syringa reticulata) American Hop-Hornbeam (Ostraya virginiana) Japanese White Birch (Betuala platyphylla) Tatarian Maple (Acer tatericum) Flowering Ornamental Tree Options Showy Mountain Ash (Sorbus decora) European Mountain Ash (Sorbus aucuparia) Starlite Flowering Crabapple (Malus Jeflite ) Rudolph Crabapple (Malus Rudolph ) Gladiator Crabapple (Malus x adstringens Durleo PP20167) 14

15 American Elm (Ulmus americana), varieties Patriot, Prairie Expedition, plant hardiness zone 2-5, height at maturity feet, width feet, Dutch Elm disease resistant, cold tolerant, vigorous growth with a vaseshaped crown, dark green foliage, orange to yellow fall leaf color. Boxelder (Acer nedundo), plant hardiness zone 3-5, height at maturity feet, width feet, full sun in moist, welldrained, wet soils. Tolerant of poor drainage and low rainfall, acidic and alkaline soils. Fast growth rate. Light green colored summer foliage, none in fall. Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis), plant hardiness zone 3-9, height at maturity feet, width feet, full to partial sunlight, tolerant of poor to well-drained soils, likes slightly alkaline soil but will tolerate some acidity. Tolerant of wind, ice, heat, drought, and salt spray. 15

16 Northern Catalpa (Catalpa speciose), plant hardiness zone 4-5, height at maturity feet, width feet, full sun, alkaline, moist, well-drained soils. Tolerant of poor drainage and drought conditions. Large, oval shaped leaves, white flowers, and long sausage-like seed pod. Light green summer leaves, yellow and brown fall color. Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos), variety Shademaster, Skyline, Thornless; plant hardiness zone 4-5, height at maturity feet, width feet, full sun on moist, well-drained soils. Tolerant of alkaline and acidic soils, drought and poor drainage. Select the thornless and seedless varieties. Smaller leaves are medium green in the summer and reddish brown in the fall. 16

17 Littleleaf Linden (Tilia cordata), plant hardiness zone 3-8, full to partial sun, height at maturity feet, width feet, widely adaptable to all soil types including heavy clay. Dark green, smaller, heart-shaped leaves in the summer, orange to yellow in the fall. Pyramidal shaped canopy, single seed with leaf stalk that persists into winter. American Linden (Basswood) (Tilia Americana), plant hardiness zone 3-5, full sun to partial shade and shady areas, height at maturity feet, width feet, tolerant of alkaline and acidic soils, prefers moist, well-drained soils. Summer leaves are dark green above and light green below with fall leaves yellow to orange. Single seed with long bract. Bur Oak (Quercus macrocarpa), plant hardiness zone 3-8, height at maturity feet, width feet. Slow growing, likes full sun. Tolerant of drought, clay and dry soils. Yellowish-green leaves in the summer, brown leaves in the fall. Acorns after 20 years can be large and numerous. 17

18 Burenglish Oak (Quercus macrocarpa x robur), plant hardiness zone 4-8, height at maturity 70 feet, width feet, drought tolerant with normal watering requirements, avoid overwatering. Faster growing oak with up to 1-2 feet per year. Thick leathery leaves that are dark green in summer, red, yellow to brown in fall. Acorns can develop after 5-10 years. Cheyenne Amur Maple (Acer ginnala var. Cheyenne ), plant hardiness zone 3, height at maturity 25 feet, width feet. A superior selection by Clayton Berg from a Cheyenne, Wyoming seed source. Selected for brilliant orange to red fall leaf color, robust vigorous, growth, tolerant of salt, cold and drought. 18

19 Japanese Ivory Silk Lilac (Syringa reticulate), plant hardiness zone 3-7, height at maturity feet, width feet. Prefers full sun to partial shade, with moist, slightly acidic soils with good drainage. Known for its showy, fragrant, creamy-white flowers that appear in late spring into early summer. American Hop-hornbeam (Ostrya virginiana), plant hardiness zone 3-9, height at maturity feet, width feet. Full sun to partial shade, low maintenance that tolerates well-drained, dry soils. Very hard, dense wood with medium rate of growth. Unusual cluster bearing sac-like seed pods. Light green leaves in summer turning reddish-brown in fall. Japanese White Birch (Betula platyphylla), plant hardiness zone 4-7, height at maturity feet, width feet. Likes full sun to partial shade, needs consistently moist soils and requires maintenance. Known for its white colored smooth bark and orange to yellow fall coloring. 19

20 Tatarian Hot Wings Maple (Acer tatericum), plant hardiness zone 3-7, height at maturity feet, width feet. Likes full sun to partial shade and is tolerant of drought and alkaline soils. Summer foliage is dark green and red to fiery-red in fall. Seeds take on a fiery-red color. European Mountain Ash (Sorbus aucuparia), plant hardiness zone 3-6, height at maturity feet, width feet. Best grown in full sun with moist, acidic, well-drained soils. Narrow, upright oval crown with small white 5-petaled flowers in the spring. Known for its cluster of bright orange-red fruit. 20

21 Starlite Flowering Crabapple (Malus Jeflite ), plant hardiness zone 2-3, height at maturity feet, width feet. A cultivar grown for its stately, upright growth habit and showy white flowers. Likes full sunlight and prefers moist, well-drained soils. Also tolerates variable soil ph. Rudolph Crabapple (Malus Rudolph ), plant hardiness zone 3-4, height at maturity feet, width feet. Grow in full sunlight with moist, well-drained soils. This is a high maintenance tree that requires occasional pruning to accent its upright growth habit. Summer leaves are dark green turning red in fall. Known for its pinkishred colored flowers in spring. Gladiator Crabapple (Malus x adstringens Durleo PP20167), plant hardiness zone 2-7, height at maturity feet, width 5-15 feet. High disease resistance and can grow well in tight spaces. Needs full sun, adaptable to a wide variety of soil types. The glossy bronzepurple leaves stay lush all growing season. Bright pink flowers in spring with red fruit. 21

22 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map 22

23 SECTION F The Right Tree in the Right Place One of the most exciting things about the arrival of spring is the planting of flowers, vegetables, shrubs and trees. We love our trees! Did you know that the average lifespan of a tree in the landscape is only about eight years? This is generally due to poor design, layout and planting methods. Quite often landscape designers and homeowners place trees in situations that does not give them much of chance to establish successfully and thrive. Careful consideration should be given to proper tree and shrub selection. First and foremost, is the plant within the recommended hardiness zone? Much of the Big Horn Basin lies within hardiness zone 4b as designated by the USDA. That means that plants should be able to tolerate temperatures -20 to -25 degrees Fahrenheit below zero in order to survive. Placement of the tree or shrub in the design of the landscape is important. Are you planting a single specimen tree, a group planting, or a mass planting? A specimen tree is one where the tree is a landscape feature. It is set off by unique form, leaf color, bark texture, or other significance. Group plantings are 2 or more trees that are a unit (multiple component) landscape feature. These plantings may include shrubs and other plants to help emphasize the unique plants. In mass plantings the individual trees or shrubs lose their identity but the beauty is within the appearance of the entire planting as a whole. A group planting may grow into a mass planting as trees and shrubs mature. Trees can be planted to frame a view such as a house, a yard, or other landscaped areas. They can also be planted to help maximize winter solar heating and summer cooling. In the winter homes with south-facing windows have a great potential to capture winter solar heat. Broadleaf tree branches can intercept 20-55% of the sun s radiation thus keeping that heat from reaching your house. On the other hand, in the summer the leaves of trees block 70-90% of the sun s radiation on a clear day and can reduce home cooling costs by 10-30%. Group plantings for shade can reduce summertime temperatures by as much as 20 degrees. No matter where you choose to plant a tree careful consideration must be given to the proximity to overhead utility lines such as electrical, cable TV, and telephone. Underground utility lines such as water, sewer, electrical and irrigation must also be considered. Quite often blame is given to tree roots for a disruption of water and sewer service. When in fact the roots of trees and shrubs are moisture-seeking, particularly in dry soils and drought conditions. Any water leaking or seeping from broken or damaged sewer or water lines, poorly jointed utility connections, or irrigations systems that leak underground, will attract tree roots. And they may cause a disruption to your service. The planting location is important. If you are planting a single tree or shrub a good general rule of thumb is to allow at least 20 feet of space from the nearest sidewalk, curb, structure, or fences. Over time the tree grows and spreads its branches and roots. In general, the roots of a tree can grow more than 30% beyond the drip line (furthest branch growth with leaves). So consideration should be given to the rate of tree growth and the maximum height and width that a mature tree may reach. If you are purchasing and planting a tree on your own there are several important things to remember. Containerized trees can be limited by the spread of roots while kept in the container. 23

24 If your tree is ball and burlap or bare root keep the soil around the roots moist to the touch. Store in a shady spot. Bare root trees can be packed with wet newspaper, sawdust or mulch around the roots and then wrapped in a plastic bag. Plant the trees as soon as possible, within 2 days. Ball and burlap or containerized trees should be planted within 24 hours. Before you leave the nursery or garden center write down the following information; where the tree was purchased, date of purchase, warranty period, type of tree (species) and the mature height and width. Soil amendments should be considered where you have alkaline or heavy clay components. These are added along with the tree at the time it is planted. Trees and shrubs provide a myriad of benefits when planted correctly in the landscape. Noise abatement, energy saving from heating and cooling, carbon dioxide reduction, UV reduction, air pollution abatement, storm water runoff mitigation, property value increase, windbreak, and wildlife habitat to name just a few. The USDA, Forest Service has valuated the benefits of community trees. For each dollar that a city invests in a community tree program, large trees return $1.92 in environmental benefits. Medium-sized trees return $1.36, while small trees return $1.00. And then there are the intangible returns that trees provide. A place of rest and relaxation. Leaves rustling in the wind. The green color of summer and the red, orange, yellow and brown colors of fall foliage. Some things you can t put a price on. There is a lot of information out there on plant health care, planting, and maintenance. The ones that I would lean on most for current information are listed here; The Arbor Day Foundation The International Society of Arboriculture The Wyoming Division of Forestry Dr. Ed Gilman s tree planting information and Colorado State University Extension, Garden Notes from the Colorado Master Gardener Program and Park County Master Gardener As your City of Powell, arborist I would be happy to answer any questions you might have. I can be reached during regular business hours at (307) Happy planting! 24

25 SECTION G New Tree Planting Think of the tree you just purchased as a lifetime investment. How well your tree, and investment, grows depends on the type of tree and location you select for planting, the care you provide when the tree is planted, and follow-up care the tree receives after planting. Planting the Tree The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is during the dormant season in the fall after leaf drop or early spring before bud break. Weather conditions are cool and allow plants to establish roots in the new location before spring rains and summer heat stimulate new top growth. However, trees properly cared for in the nursery or garden center, and given the appropriate care during transport to prevent damage, can be planted throughout the growing season. In either situation, proper handling during planting is essential to ensure a healthy future for new trees and shrubs. Before you begin planting your tree, be sure you have had all underground utilities located prior to digging. Whether the tree you are planting is balled and bur lapped or is bare root, it is important to understand that its root system has been reduced by 90 to 95 percent of its original size during transplanting. As a result of the trauma caused by the digging process, trees commonly exhibit what is known as transplant shock. Transplant shock is indicated by slow growth and reduced vigor following transplanting. Proper site preparation before and during planting coupled with good follow-up care reduces the amount of time the plant experiences transplant shock and allows the tree to quickly establish in its new location. Carefully follow eight simple steps, and you can significantly reduce the stress placed on the plant at the time of planting. 1. Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Make the hole wide, as much as three times the diameter of the root ball but only as deep as the root ball. It is important to make the hole wide because the roots on the newly establishing tree must push through surrounding soil in order to establish. On most planting sites in new developments, the existing soils have been compacted and are unsuitable for healthy root growth. Breaking up the soil in a large area around the tree provides the newly emerging roots room to expand into loose soil to hasten establishment. 2. Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted (see diagram). If the trunk flare is not partially visible, you may have to remove some soil from the top of the root ball. Find it so you can determine how deep the hole needs to be for proper planting. 3. Place the tree at the proper height. Before placing the tree in the hole, check to see that the hole has been dug to the proper depth and no more. The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. If the tree is planted too deeply, new roots will have difficulty developing because of a lack of oxygen. It is better to plant the tree a little high, 2 to 3 inches above the base of the trunk flare, than to plant it at or below the original growing level. This planting level will allow for some settling (see diagram). To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole, always lift the tree by the root ball and never by the trunk. 25

26 4. Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm that the tree is straight. Once you begin backfilling, it is difficult to reposition the tree. 5. Fill the hole gently but firmly. Fill the hole about one-third full and gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of the root ball. Then, if the tree is balled and bur lapped, cut and remove the string and wire from around the trunk and top third of the root ball (see diagram). Be careful not to damage the trunk or roots in the process. Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause roots to dry out. To avoid this problem, add the soil a few inches at a time and settle with water. Continue this process until the hole is filled and the tree is firmly planted. It is not recommended to apply fertilizer at the time of planting. 6. Stake the tree, if necessary. If the tree is grown and dug properly at the nursery, staking for support will not be necessary in most home landscape situations. Studies have shown that trees establish more quickly and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting. However, protective staking may be required on sites where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy conditions are concerns. If staking is necessary for support, there are three methods to choose among: staking, guying, and ball stabilizing. One of the most common methods is staking. With this method, two stakes used in conjunction with a wide, flexible tie material will hold the tree upright, provide flexibility, and minimize injury to the trunk (see diagram). Remove support staking and ties after the first year of growth. 7. Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch is simply organic matter applied to the area at the base of the tree. It acts as a blanket to hold moisture, it moderates soil temperature extremes (both hot and cold), and it reduces competition from grass and weeds. Some good choices are leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or wood chips. A 2- to 4-inch layer is ideal. More than 4 inches may cause a problem with oxygen and moisture levels. When placing mulch, be sure that the actual trunk of the tree is not covered. Doing so may cause decay of the living bark at the base of the tree. A mulch-free area, 1 to 2 inches wide at the base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and prevent decay. 8. Provide follow-up care. Keep the soil moist but not soaked; over watering causes leaves to turn yellow or fall off. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot weather. When the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. Continue until mid-fall, tapering off for lower temperatures that require less-frequent watering. Other follow-up care may include minor pruning of branches damaged during the planting process. Prune sparingly immediately after planting and wait to begin necessary corrective pruning until after a full season of growth in the new location. After you ve completed these eight simple steps, further routine care and favorable weather conditions will ensure that your new tree or shrub will grow and thrive. A valuable asset to any landscape, trees provide a long-lasting source of beauty and enjoyment for people of all ages. When questions arise about the care of your tree, be sure to consult your local ISA Certified Arborist or a tree care or garden center professional for assistance. 26

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28 SECTION H Tree Watering Tree watering is a key part of tree care and it is difficult to recommend an exact amount due to a variety of circumstances including climate, soil, drainage, tree species and others. But a few guidelines will help you to water your trees properly. Watering newly planted trees Watering a newly planted tree depends on things like the amount of rainfall you get in your area, wind conditions, temperatures and what season it is, how well the soil holds water and drainage. Further, how developed the roots are to the tree (how long ago you actually planted it) will also let you know how much and often to water the tree. In general, water a tree once a day for the first two weeks and after that, once a week for a year as long as the tree is not dormant (without leaves). When trees are newly planted, their watering requirements are high. Transplanted tree watering requirements might include heavy moisture during the first full growing season so that the root ball can get established. Remember that the root growth is slow in too wet or too dry soil, so you don t want to over water, but if you underwater you are also doing the tree an injustice. Therefore, during the first year you have the tree in your yard, you should make sure you water it often enough to keep the soil moist yet not soaked. Pay close attention during the dry season so that you can ensure that the tree receives enough water. Transplanted tree watering requirements are high so long as the root ball is still a ball. Once the roots start to extend beyond the root ball, you know they are establishing themselves and the tree will no longer require much of your care as the environment can take care of the tree instead. Watering trees during the first 2 years A lot of energy is being expended trying to get its roots established in the soil, especially during the first few summer months of the new trees life. You can help a tree maintain moisture by adding a 3 inch layer of bark mulch around the base of the tree. Deep watering can help speed the root establishment. Deep watering consists of keeping the soil moist to a depth that includes all the roots. 28

29 How much water and when Not enough water is harmful for the tree but too much water is a bad idea as well. Over-watering is a common tree care mistake. Note that moist is different than soggy, and you can judge by feel of the ground around the tree. A damp soil that dries for a short period of time will allow adequate oxygen to permeate the soil. As a general rule of thumb, your soil should be moist. Usually 30 seconds with a steady stream of water from a garden hose with a diffuser nozzle per newly planted tree is sufficient. Mulching is key to retaining moisture in the soil. Pay close attention during the dry season so that you can ensure that the tree receives enough water. You should not only think about how to water newly planted trees, but when to water them. Try watering them later in the evening, after the heat of the day has subsided. This way, the water will not evaporate immediately and the roots get a good chance at absorbing some of that moisture. If you can t be available to water the tree in the evening there are a couple options. The use of a tree water bag can provide adequate water for newly planted and the two years following. In most cases, they are a zippered bag with a water refill opening in the top. Another idea is to simply take a plastic 5-gallon bucket and drill 2 or 3 small holes in the bottom (the size of a finishing nail), evenly spaced in a triangle shape. Fill the bucket with water and place it at the base of the tree. Be sure that each time you refill the bucket you move it to another location around the base of the tree. Watering trees after the first 2 years After your tree has been established in your yard for two years the roots will be established. This will allow your tree to withstand a wider range of water conditions including the ability to stand on its own because it has a proper root structure. As a general rule continue watering your tree 5 gallons once per week plus 5 gallons for every additional inch caliper of the trunk at 4 feet off the ground. If you have a 4 inch caliper tree, add 5 gallons plus an additional 15 gallons. Keep in mind though, you don t want to over water. Some tree species require more water than others, depending on several factors including; the origin of tree and nursery, the hardiness zone, the type of soil (alkaline versus acidic), and its 29

30 natural range of growth. For example, a southern magnolia may not survive very well in the desert southwest. Soil moisture measuring and monitoring Whatever the annual precipitation may be, trees and shrubs will always benefit from proper mulching and watering. There are a couple ways to make sure the soil in the roots and surrounding area are obtaining the right amount of moisture. The use of a soil moisture sensor is an ideal way to get an accurate reading. Most moisture sensors will give you a percent soil moisture or the more expensive meters will give you a digital number. Another, less expensive way to detect moisture is through the use of a dowel rod. This method will also be useful if the soil moisture meter should fail. Simply cut ¼ to ½ dowel rod into 12 to 14 lengths. Sharpen one end of the rod and push one or more of them into the root ball leaving about 2 to 4 exposed. After a day or two pull the rod out. If the stick is still moist then there is adequate moisture. If the stick is dry, then the root ball is not getting enough water. Remember, the idea is to keep the roots moist without overwatering. Drought tolerant tree species If your area constantly deals with drought you will want to consider trees listed as drought tolerant. The label on the tree at the nursery should tell you if it is drought tolerant. These trees are adapted to sites in their native habitat that regularly experience prolonged dry spells. Although they are native to drought and more tolerant than others the first few years of life is critical to the survival of any tree and following the steps above will help your trees to grow successfully. Some drought tolerant tree species Honeylocust - shademaster, skyline, and imperial (zones 3 to 9) Kentucky Coffeetree (zones 3 to 8) Chinese Elm (zones 5 to 9) Prairie Expedition Elm (zones 4 to 7) Colorado Blue Spruce (zones 3 to 7) Rocky Mountain Juniper (zones 4 to 9) 30

31 Canada Red Chokecherry (zones 2 to 6) Common Hackberry (zones 3 to 9) Bur Oak (zones 4 to 8) Spring Snow Flowering Crabapple (zones 4 to 8) For more information on other tree health care and maintenance issues please visit the City website under the Parks Department tab and look for the specific article of interest. 31

32 SECTION I TREE AND SHRUB SOIL CHALLENGES Quite often tree and shrub disorders can be caused by the soil environment. About 80% of shade tree problems can be attributed to soil issues. Unfortunately, most arborists and groundskeepers don t have direct access to the soil and root zones below ground and this can make diagnosis difficult at best. The surrounding environment such as sidewalks or landscaped beds, poor drainage or limited soil volume can complicate the diagnosis process. Insect infestations on plants can also manifest as a soil problem. Above ground symptoms can provide a basis for diagnosing underlying soil issues. There are eight type of problems that are outlined here, and include; 1. Planting too deeply 2. Soil compaction 3. Excessive or not enough mulch 4. Poor drainage 5. Low moisture 6. Soil mix interface 7. Limited soil space 8. Raise in soil grade The symptoms suggested here can be determined as simple field tests by anyone with limited soil understanding. Planting too deeply When looking at the trunk of a tree, the visible absence of a root flair and the presence of girdling roots and suckers can be an indication that the tree has been planted too deeply. Plant roots require oxygen. Oxygen levels are at the greatest near the soil surface and decrease the lower you go. The lack of oxygen disrupts normal root formation and can cause the development of girdling roots. To determine if a tree is planted too deeply one must locate the lateral main roots. To do this use a probe, pushing down into the soil within 2 to 3 inches of the trunk. A long screwdriver can serve as a probe. Take note of the length of the probe that goes below the soil surface, with repeated tests. Two to four lateral roots should be found right near the surface. The average length of the depth to the lateral roots gives you an idea of how deep they are growing. If these roots are exposed at the surface, the root system is at the correct depth and probing the soil is not necessary. Removing the excess soil above the root flare or replanting the tree are the best methods to get the tree to the correct planting depth. 32

33 Never plant a tree too deep Soil compaction Compaction of the soil can cause loss of vigor. A tree with poor vigor will have smaller, yellow leaves, less new twig growth, and any wounds will be slow to close. The vigorous growth of a tree is poor because compaction reduces the rate that water is taken up by the tree. Operation of heavy equipment or repeated vehicle driving too close to a tree or shrub drip-line can cause soil compaction. The water-holding capacity of the soil is decreased and the soil has limited aeration. Plant roots have a much more difficult time penetrating soil that is compacted. Compaction can be detected by using a probe and pushing it into the soil. The soil should be moist when using the probe. Again, a screwdriver can serve as a probe. Test several areas where you suspect the soil could be compacted and particularly note the resistance encountered when pushing into the ground. The more compacted the soil, the more difficult it will be to push the probe in. Then do a comparison test with non-compacted soil. The best way to deal with compacted soil is to trench the soil outward from the base of the tree or shrub using a shovel. Once a number of trenches have been made you can add a mixture of topsoil and organic matter into the trenched material. Cover the trenches but do not pack the soil down. Excessive mulch If too much mulch is added around trees the roots of trees will begin to grow above the soil surface or sprout from the base. During periods of drought mulches can act like a sponge drying out the soil by absorbing surface moisture and causing roots to die. Mulch layers should not exceed 4 inches in depth and should not be placed in a volcano against the base of the tree. Poor drainage Poorly drained or overwatered sites make trees and shrubs more susceptible to phytophthora root rot disease. The symptoms of the disease include yellowed, wilted leaves or dull colored foliage. Plants growing in these soils suffer from a lack of oxygen. The oxygen is deficient 33

34 because the pore spaces of the soil are filled with water. Soils with a high clay content is susceptible to poor drainage. The color and odor of a soil can be an indicator of a drainage problem. The lack of oxygen frequently causes a distinctive and offensive foul smell. And a pale yellow or gray color to the soil can indicate poor drainage. Some options to deal with poor drainage include selecting plants that are tolerant of poor drainage and planting in a raised bed. For trees that are already in place and experiencing drainage problems the soil can be treated with vertical mulching, creating holes vertically into the soil and adding organic amendments into the holes. The soil conditions will improve over time. Lack of moisture A lack of water to trees and shrubs causes leaf scorch. The symptoms appear as leaf edges that turn brown. Extended high temperatures and drought cause low soil moisture. Newly planted trees, which have a limited root capacity, and dormant evergreens, are sensitive to water stress. Determining the level of moisture content in soils is the best way to have adequate moisture. Using the feel method and the appearance of the soil are used to judge moisture adequacy. Soil that is light in color, has a powdery texture, and easily crumbles when handled is moisture deficient. Low soil moisture can be prevented with careful water management and can include the use of mulch and soil amendments. Mixing soil types A condition where two distinctly different soils, with different properties in the plants root zones, is called soil interface. Poor soil interface can cause chronic leaf wilt and leaf scorch. For example, planting tree that has been container grown in a high sand content, then into a highly organic soil may result in poor interface. Or, planting nursery grown ball and bur-lapped trees and shrubs into a soil that is high in clay or is very rocky, can result in poor soil interface. Vertical mulching or the addition of organic matter when the tree or shrub is first planting can help the transition of roots into the adjoining soils. Limited soil space Trees and shrubs that are planted in pits or are bounded by hard surfaces such as concrete or plastic boxes are frequently stressed due to the limited space in which they are growing. The limited availability of nutrients and water to the roots within the planting frequently show symptoms of drought. The best way to avoid this problem is to estimate the soil space that is needed for the tree to survive over time. Trees that are 4 to 24 inches diameter at maturity may require 200 to 1600 cubic feet of soil volume for adequate growth and development. Raise in grade A symptom that can take a number of years to show up is caused by an increase in grade. Trees and shrubs will exhibit a gradual dieback over time. The placement of soil over the existing ground surface can restrict the movement of air and water into and out of the root zone. The placement of as little as 1 or 2 inches of soil containing a high amount of clay, or adding crushed gravel or rocks, can cause severe injury to landscape trees. The trees will exhibit dieback from the top of the tree down. The best solution is to remove the added soil and vertically mulch the tree. Trimming dead and dying limbs and branches afterward, can correct the problem. 34

35 Troubleshooting chart 35

36 SECTION J Some Significant Tree Diseases of the Powell Area Sudden Needle Drop A number of conifer trees have been exhibiting some signs that concerned people have contacted the City Arborist about. Evergreen trees and shrubs are among the most useful and valuable assets on any property. A large number of trees with needles have been planted in the Powell area. Colorado blue spruce is the major species. Problems that may occur are seen in the spring of the second year on new growth. Some of the needles may appear to be a faded or darker green color than the other needles on the tree and gradually begin to turn brown or purplish brown. Eventually the needles begin to fall off. A few at first and then entire branches. And this can be seen in sporadic patches throughout the tree beginning with the lower branches. There can be several causes of this die back. If winters are severe, the needles will suffer what is known as winter burn. This occurs when the sun heats up the needles causing water loss, but the ground is frozen so the plant cannot replenish its supply. Desiccation (drying out) occurs and the needles turn brown and fall off. Winter burn is seen mainly in the spring and on the sunny side of the tree. If you see evidence of this the best solution is the application of an anti-desiccant in the fall. This is essentially a protective layer covering the tree that reduces the water loss through the winter. Sprinklers can be both a cause and a solution to many evergreen problems. Trees and shrubs need water so of course, sprinklers can do well. However, if sprinklers are frequently wetting the needles it can lead to foliage being excessively wet in turn creating damaging fungal problems. Fungus One of the most serious fungal problems is Rhizosphaera needle cast. Unfortunately Colorado blue spruce happens to be most susceptible to this disease. The infection typically begins in the lower branches of the tree because this is the portion of the tree is most likely to have longer periods of wet conditions on it. The spores of the fungus grow out in the spring in May and June but it takes until late the following or even the next spring for there to be noticeable symptoms. Infected needles appear purple or purple brown at first, eventually turning brown. Then they fall from the tree. An inspection with a magnifying glass will usually reveal black spots in a row along the length of the needle. These are the fruiting bodies from which spores become windblown and splashed by rain or sprinklers. Eventually entire sections of the tree will die off from the bottom up. The best way to treat these serious problems is to have a professional inspect the trees for signs and symptoms. The dead or dying branches must be removed from the tree and as much of the fallen needles raked up and removed as possible. While you can t reverse the damage done to the tree you can keep it from spreading. If needle cast is a serious problem then consideration should be given to have the tree sprayed with a fungicide. The active ingredient in the fungicide should be chlorothalonil and it is applied in the spring before the fruiting bodies mature. There are many benefits that evergreen trees provide in the landscape. Keeping them healthy will allow you to enjoy those benefits for many years. 36

37 Oystershell Scale One of the most common and most damaging insects in the Powell area is oystershell scale. It develops on the bark and trunks of a wide variety of deciduous tree species growing in this area. Aspen, ash, cottonwood, poplars, willows and lilacs are trees and shrubs it likes to attack. Over winter the egg stage is spent under cover of the mother scale. The white eggs hatch on warm, calm days in late May or early June. The newborns, known as crawlers, are pale yellow in color and move along the bark looking for feeding sites. They feed by sucking the fluids of cells underlying the bark, often killing the cells. In large populations the scales may cause tree limbs to dieback and eventually can weaken the plant to where it becomes more susceptible to plant pathogens and other insects. As they feed their size increases and by midsummer they are fully grown. The cycle is repeated when eggs are laid in late summer and early fall. The mother dies at the end of the season. One generation of the insect is produced annually. Eggs produced in late summer remain under a protective waxy cover throughout the winter. Timing is critical to the control of this insect. Once it has begun to feed it molts and develops a waxy protective cover. The small crawlers can be detected by careful examination or by shaking off an infested limb onto a sheet of paper. Start to look for the crawlers around mid- May. On smaller trees and shrubs scale coverings and eggs can be destroyed by scrubbing the bark or trunk with a soft plastic pad. Heavy infestations on branches may need to be pruned off. The use of horticultural oils, available at many home and garden centers, can be sprayed onto the overwintering eggs. Although caution should be used since it may not kill all of them if it doesn t penetrate the adult waxy covering. Repeated seasonal observation for the eggs, crawlers, and adults is necessary. There are several insecticides that can be sprayed to control the insect. The most effectively used contain the active ingredient bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, cyhalothrin, or permethrin. Some other effective insecticide controls contain acetamiprid, carbaryl, and malathion. Always follow the label on the product. If you are unsure if the insect is present, check with a professional. A master gardener or certified arborist can help you. Once you have begun to control the insect take note that the old scales can remain in place for several years after they have died. Once you have determined that the scales are dying or you use a plastic pad or high pressure water, remove as much of the fallen scales as you can so any reinfestation can be detected. If you don t have oystershell scale on any of your trees and shrubs consider yourself fortunate. If your neighbor has trees or shrubs nearby you may want to watch for signs of the insect on those plants. 37

38 SECTION K Understanding and Identifying Tree Defects Tree decay symptoms. Photo: John Fech There are no perfect trees. Trees develop defects such as decay, cracks and root plate injuries that can become troublesome in urban environments. There are seven areas of defects that are of greatest concern. Thorough inspection is required to locate and evaluate each one. Photos and descriptions are a good place to start. Following up with a certified arborist that will take the time to train your eyes to find the defects is even better. Decay There are over 50 species of fungi that cause heartwood decay. Just like the adaptability of various tree species, each one has a region of the country in which it is able to grow and become infectious. Decay almost always occurs in a step-by-step fashion. First, a tree is wounded by hail, a chain saw, a juvenile delinquent, a string trimmer, etc., then decay fungi take advantage of the opening and enter the tree, passing through the bark, cork cambium, cambium, sapwood and into the heartwood. Next, the internal conditions facilitate the growth and development of the disease. Once infected with wood decay fungi, they degrade the sturdiness of the heartwood, lessening its ability to provide structural support. Often associated with decay, conks are growths that can occur on the bark. They are attached to decay organisms inside the trunk. Conks are important to note because they are outward indicators of hidden internal conditions. Actually, many are quite attractive, and if in a forest or nonthreatening location, can be an educational tool for biology/ecology/science projects at various grade levels. 38

39 Cracks Cracks are perhaps the most critical tree defect, as they are a physical separation of the bark and sapwood. This causes a concern by itself, as the potential for splitting and failure of the trunk becomes an obvious threat, but also as a vehicle for entrance of decay organisms that will degrade the quality and integrity of heartwood over time. Another serious outcome is the interruption of water and nutrient conductivity via the cambium and sapwood, causing stress and insufficient materials for the crown. Again, cracks are more worrisome if they develop on a tree with important objects nearby. Cracks are one of the most potentially damaging defects. Photo: John Fech 39

40 Girdling roots Instead of expanding laterally, some roots wrap around the main trunk, compressing the bark. This restricts the transport of water and nutrients, and creates a failure point in the lower trunk. When feasible, arrange for visual inspection of the roots, including a proper spread prior to planting. For containerized or balled-and-burlapped trees, check for and prune roots where possible that are in the early stages of growing adjacent to the trunk or are in circular patterns. Unfortunately, pruning tangled roots creates a wound that disease organisms can enter, but in severe cases it may be the better alternative to leaving them to cause constriction with the trunk. Each situation is a judgement call for the tree planter. Girdling roots compress root tissues against trunk tissue. Photo: John Fech Codominant leaders Strong branch attachments tend to be ones that develop in a 45-degree angle to the trunk. In certain cases, narrow angles develop either as side or scaffold branches or in the crown in the form of codominant leaders. Where this occurs, weak branch attachments to the trunk are created, increasing the likelihood of limb failure. Prevent this defect by pruning early in the tree s development to eliminate the weaker of two leaders and enhance healthy adjustment to a single-leader tree. Preventative pruning is best done when problematic branches are an inch or less in diameter. Codominant leaders are much more consequential on large trees than smaller ones, such as Japanese tree lilac, crabapple or Shantung maple. Tall, heavy limbs that develop on silver maples and sycamores have the potential to break from the rest of the tree and cause major injury. If this occurs on a 15-foot crabapple, the result is less consequential. 40

41 Codominant leaders create weak points in a tree. Photo: John Fech Leaning Leaning is not necessarily a defect. However, when a tree s angle of lean increases over time, the chance for failure is significant. In some situations, leaning is the result of being struck with a piece of equipment or poor placement in the planting area, and the tree has adjusted over time by growing supporting roots to compensate. Leaning becomes a defect when roots on one side of a tree deteriorate due to compaction or root rot and loosen from the soil, allowing the tree to fall to one side or another. In any case, the best diagnostic procedure for leaning is to monitor and document the degree of lean over time. At first, this should be done on a monthly basis. If no increase in lean is observed, the time between inspections can be increased. Leaning should be monitored over time. Photo: John Fech 41

42 Basal injury/root plate defects Buttress roots, basal bark and sapwood tissues are critical to the overall stability of a tree. When these are damaged, the potential for trunk failure is increased due to a degradation of the root flare. Use care around the base of trees to avoid injury from lawn mowers and string trimmers. Two to 3 inches of loose, coarse wood chip mulch placed 6 inches away from the trunk and extending 5 to 7 feet into the lawn/landscape will greatly decrease the chances of basal bark or root plate injury. Growing conditions Basal injury creates structural weakness. Photo: John Fech Good growing conditions aren t a true tree defect, however, they have a significant influence on whether a tree with defects can overcome them or struggle in their presence. Compacted soils, disturbed soils, construction activity, low organic matter soils, nutrient depletion, over or under watering and heavy nitrogen applications can cause significant dieback, which will compound the effects of the defects mentioned earlier in this article. Identify and mitigate these conditions whenever possible. Importance of target/location Targets are objects of importance on a property that trees or tree parts could fall on. The most common targets are people, houses, sheds, power lines, cars and fences. If a target is not close to the tree with defects, its level of hazard is much less significant. For example, a tree growing in a pasture is likely to be problematic to a grazing cow, but unless you re an obsessive carnivore, it s a much less worrisome target than a location with frequent human activity nearby. When inspecting trees, the target should always be considered in any recommendations. So, now what? 42

43 This article contains information about and photos of the common tree defects. The next step in understanding them and providing good tree care is to see them up close, to touch and encounter them in a real-life setting. As your knowledge and experience increases, strive to incorporate regular evaluation into every tree service call. Eventually, strive to evaluate each tree on a property and charge a reasonable fee for doing so. The goal is to get paid for providing quality care, both preventative and corrective, not for the amount of an insecticide or fungicide that can be sprayed on a given tree. In the process of evaluation, consider how many defects are present and how extensive they are. There are many ways to conduct an evaluation, most of which involve some form of rating them on a scale from It may go like this: Sure, there is decay in this tree, but it s only in one area, it s not very extensive, and it s an oak/walnut/osage orange. So, not too bad in terms of number of incidences, extent of the injury and the species of tree, which will allow it to spread slowly. The extent of the decay and the tree species will determine the monitoring frequency. If extensive decay is present in a tree species such as cottonwood or silver maple trees that are known to decay more rapidly than many others a good approach is to obtain a contract for regular monitoring. Monitoring is an ongoing process in that once the tree has been inspected and the defects have been documented in terms of specifics and extent, relaying the information to the customer becomes the logical next step. Information transfer to the client is a crucial requirement and needs to be tailored to their preferences. Some would feel most comfortable with a walk and talk through the landscape, while others would rather that detailed notes and photos be provided so they could follow up on their own. Either way, the goal is to gather information, make determinations, document the findings, and inform the customer of the status of the trees on their property. Once this has been done, the pathway for sitting down with them to plan out a remediation or treatment strategy has been set in place, and progress towards dealing positively with tree defects has been accomplished. 43

44 SECTION L Managing Your Trees and Shrubs: A Decision Guide There is lots of information out there on the care and maintenance of your trees and shrubs. But how do you know what is the best course of action to take? You can hire a tree care professional or a certified arborist. They should provide you with sound options and alternatives to help you decide what to do. Or perhaps you can do-it-yourself? Ultimately though, you as the homeowner or property caretaker may have to choose what is best. Here are some steps to help guide the decision. The first step in this process is to identify what you have. Conduct an inventory of your trees and shrubs. How many and where are they located? Whether you have a tenth of an acre or 100 acres you can t manage what you don t know you have. Species, size (both height and diameter), condition (healthy, dying, dead), and location (especially in proximity to other trees or objects such as outbuildings and overhead utility lines), are essential. If your trees and shrubs are in need of care such as pruning, trimming, treatment for insects or disease, or nutrient deficiency, you have to decide if they are worth saving. At this point a professional arborist or plant care specialist may be contacted to help you determine the extent of care necessary and how long the tree will need treatment. Is the tree valuable to the landscape or owner? Is it healthy or are there signs of decay, dead wood, or insect damage? Is the tree located in the right site? Will it cost more to maintain the tree or is it best to cut it down and start over? Weigh your options and discuss them with your arborist. Remember, it will cost more to remove a standing dead tree than it will to remove a tree before it completely dies. The ideal time to prune or trim trees is during the dormant season. Arborists and plant care specialists are trained to look for signs indicating a tree is having health issues. Even their opinions can vary at times. Get at least two estimates for work to be done. Hire a certified professional. Ask for references and liability insurance. Look at other trees and shrubs in your neighborhood. For example, if there are signs that there is an insect infestation team up with your neighbors and seek discounts for managing all your trees at once. Always contact your City Arborist about local ordinances before performing any tree work. As a general rule of thumb, if there is an option to treat a tree with an insecticide on any tree greater that 20 inches in diameter, a professional arborist should do the job. If it is less, the homeowner may consider doing the treatment if they have the necessary tools and equipment OR hire a professional. Insect galleries under the bark can be difficult to detect 44

45 Why hire a professional? If it is a tree care company they will have the necessary equipment for proper trimming or tree removal. If it is a plant care specialist or certified arborist they will be able to use equipment that is used to inject pesticides to treat insects. If you choose to remove the tree they can also suggest a suitable replacement for the specific planting location. Remember, choose a diverse species of trees. Why is DIY tree care dangerous? Though it may seem simple, tree work is actually extremely complicated, technical and dangerous. Homeowners have been injured and even killed by falling limbs, faulty equipment, or general carelessness while attempting do-it-yourself tree work. Common accident factors include: Proper safety equipment is essential for tree trimming or removal Use of extension ladders. If you need to use a ladder for your tree care work, think twice. If your ladder does not extend at least 3 feet past the branch, cutting off the end of a branch will cause the branch to rise up beyond the ladder. Many ladder related fatalities occur this way. Do not make the mistake of setting the ladder on something unsteady to get the reach you need. Improper tools. Faulty tree care equipment, such as a dull chain saw, can cause terrible accidents. It is very easy to lose control or misuse the tools, which often results in a trip to the hospital. Lack of knowledge about tree physics and biology. Aimlessly hacking away at the tree with your axe or chain saw is dangerous! For example, homeowners are often tempted to cut corners by removing limbs in massive, unwieldy sections. The weight makes the limb section difficult to control, and this may damage the tree or you. If you are at all uncertain about what could happen by attempting your own tree work, contact a qualified tree care professional. Safety is the cornerstone of the tree care profession, and professional arborists have the experience and training necessary to navigate hazards. In particular, arborists are trained to: 45

46 Identify trees or branches with decay, cracks or unbalanced weight Avoid nearby overhead electrical wires and other conductors Prevent falls from trees they are working on Remove portions of or entire trees without causing bodily harm or property damage Less than half of this ash tree has viable leaves Which trees can be saved? Even before contacting a professional you can make a fair judgement as to whether or not a tree can be saved. Trees CAN be saved if they are: - Healthy and vigorously growing, with more than half their leaves intact - Enhancing the landscape - Valuable to the owner - Showing only a few outward signs of insect invasion or disease Trees should NOT be saved if they are: - Unhealthy, with more than half of their leaves missing. - Planted in poor sites or are not important to the landscape - Showing outward signs of stress, insect damage, or disease such as woodpecker damage, bark splits, water sprouts at the base, fungus on the tree or at the base of the trunk. Invasive insects such as the Emerald Ash Borer can be difficult to control 46

47 Street and boulevard trees are not growing in their natural environment so they are already under stress when we put them there. Stress such as drought, overwatering, insects, soil compaction, competition from other plants, diseases, herbicide application and trunk damage from mowers and string trimmers can cause the health of a tree to decline. If the cause can be determined and corrected early enough, quite often the resiliency of trees will keep them alive. The benefits of trees are endless, and the bigger the tree the greater the benefits. Let s do what we can to provide proper care and maintenance of our trees and shrubs. For further information or if there are any questions you may contact the City of Powell Arborist at (307)

48 SECTION M City of Powell Street Tree Maintenance Cost Share Program Powell Parks Department, City Arborist parks@cityofpowell.com 270 N. Clark St., Powell, WY TO BE ELIGIBLE FOR REIMBURSEMENT, THE ASSISTANCE PROGRAM APPLICATION MUST BE APPROVED BEFORE WORK BEGINS Street trees provide many environmental, economic and social benefits to our community. Accomplishing tree maintenance tasks is necessary to having healthy, structurally sound, and well-maintained trees. The City Arborist is a certified individual who will determine which trees to prune or remove. The City has set up this assistance program to help with and encourage the removal or trimming of trees that are causing damage or have a high potential to cause damage to publicly owned infrastructure. A permit is required to plant trees and an ISA certified arborist is required to contract for commercial tree trimming or removal on public or private property. REQUIRMENTS: In order to be eligible for reimbursement, all of the following conditions must be met: The property must be single-family residential and within the city limits of Powell. The application must come from the property owner, not the leasee or renter. A current city-licensed and permitted tree service must do all of the work. The City will reimburse the property owner OR the tree service after FINAL inspection and acceptance by the City Arborist. Trees can only be removed with prior City approval, and any replacement tree(s) must be provided by the property owner. Not all removal requests or tree replacements are approved. Only trees located near public rights-of-ways that are causing damage, or have a high potential to cause damage to publicly owned infrastructure may be eligible for reimbursement (right-of-way widths may vary). Reimbursement is made on a first-come, first-serve basis from limited available funds, and is made directly to the tree service provider. If funds are not available, a waiting list will be established until additional funds become available. The City will reimburse 50%, up to $500, per tree for removal or pruning. A maximum reimbursement of $500 is available per parcel of land within a 36-month time period. All tree work performed will be done on behalf of the property owner and there is no liability on the City. The City of Powell, its officers, employees, appointees and representatives, do hereby reserve the City of Powell s governmental or sovereign immunity from tort liability of any kind or nature, and nothing herein shall be considered a waiver of immunity as provided by law. The City of Powell specifically retains all immunities and defenses available to it as a sovereign or governmental entity pursuant to state law, including Wyoming Statute , etseq. Property Owner Information (please print): Applicant Name: Address of Property: Property Owner s Mailing Address: 48