Appendix O Selecting & Planting Trees & Shrubs Selecting the Right Plant for Each Location About Selecting & Planting Trees What does he plant who plants a tree? He plants cool shade and tender rain, And seed and bud of days to be, And years that fade and flush again; He plants the forest's heritage; The harvest of a coming age; The joy that unborn eyes shall see - These things he plants who plants a tree. From "The Heart of the Tree" by Henry Cuyler Bunner (1855-1896) THE RIGHT PLANT A key to sustainable planting is matching the plant and the conditions of the planting site. The best planting procedures will not save a plant that is poorly suited for the site. Plants vary naturally in their ability to tolerate site conditions such as extreme heat or cold, wet or dry soils, sun or shade. The plant also should not outgrow its allotted space. Plants should be healthy and vigorous when planted. http://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/sustman.pdf
Selecting the Right Plant for Each Location Site Assessment Plant selection actually begins with an assessment of the planting site. The designer needs to examine all the characteristics of the site so that the correct plant can be selected. Soil What kind of soil is present on the site? Porous, clay, wet, dry, or welldrained? Once determined this will lead the designer to select certain plants that will do well in this type of soil. Space The amount of space available determines what trees at their mature size can be accommodated and how many trees will be spaced throughout the site. Overhead obstacles Such overhead obstacles as building overhangs and taller tree canopies will determine the mature height of the tree that can be planted. Light The exposure to sunlight (length of time, morning light, afternoon light, full sun, and full shade) will determine what species will do well in this site. Wind exposure The frequency and strength of wind will determine what species can thrive in this location. A windy site will require trees that can resist ice storm damage. Slope Presence of slope will influence the amount of drainage the soil has and, subsequently, will determine which species can best be planted on the site. Rainfall The normal amount of rainfall received, the presence or absence of overhanging buildings, the presence of buildings that block the prevailing winds, and the presence of taller trees that block the rainfall or consume large amounts of ground water will influence the choice of species for the location. Underground issues The presence of underground utilities may preclude the choice of certain species. Additionally, if there is a hardpan layer of soil immediately below the tentative planting hole, it will impede proper drainage. Near by existing plants These plants can be good indicators of what kinds of plants do or do not do well in this site. From a design or aesthetic perspective, any new plants need to complement existing plants. Plant Selection The results of the site assessment should guide the designer s selection of plants that will thrive under the site conditions. Lists presented in Appendix F will be useful in making those selections.
The contractor or homeowner should select plants that are healthy. No girdling roots Root are white, not dark (assess by taking out of container or removing part of the covering of a balled-and-burlapped shrub or tree; bare root will be easily seen) The tree s root flare is showing above the soil line There is no damage to the tree trunk or the shrub branches Leaves are healthy, with no sign of insect damage or disease The soil in which it is planted is moist There are no branches rubbing against other branches The tree or shrub is nicely shaped The shrub is full and, depending upon the season, shows new growth If in a container, it is not root bound Transporting the Plant Transporting the plant must observe practices that prevent desiccation of or damage to the plant: Bind and wrap or cover trees and shrubs so that wind and sunlight do not cause loss of water from the leaves or damage to the branches. Containers are wet so that any water loss that occurs can be replaced Bare-rooted plants should be immersed in an anti-desiccant gel to prevent root dehydration Planting information is provided in the Selection and Planting Trees attachment.
Selecting and Planting Trees Bulletin 845 http://ohioline.osu.edu/b845/index.html Authors T. Davis Sydnor Professor of Horticulture Ohio State University Trees are among the most valuable natural assets in the modern city. They bring nature into the urban or suburban site, enhance the environment and, if properly planted, can increase property values. However, urban and suburban locations are unnatural environments for trees where they are exposed to many detrimental factors. These include damaging extremes of water, light and wind. Soil and air temperatures are higher in urban areas. Deicing salts, used on roads to maintain the safety of urban residents, are damaging to many trees, as are aerial and soilborne pollutants. Physical damage is also caused by many human activities. Roots may be cut to make room for utilities such as sewers, gas and water lines. The branches of those same trees may be pruned to avoid interference with overhead utilities such as cable TV, telephone and electrical lines. Trees must also be pruned to make room for car and foot traffic. Security lighting, a necessity in some urban areas, can be rendered ineffective by improper plant placement. Poorly placed and maintained trees may cause interruptions in utility service. As the emphasis on and need for urban plantings increases, so does the need for a better understanding of the stresses trees encounter. All tree species, whether native or exotic, are being reevaluated for their ability to thrive in urban and suburban environments as street or park trees. The continued expansion of suburbs in Ohio means increased demand for trees adapted to these special environments. Contents Trees Have Many Uses Improper Selection and Planting Causes Problems Selecting and Planting Trees Caring for Established Trees Recommended Trees for Ohio
Desirable Small-Sized Trees Desirable Small-Sized Trees (Continued) Desirable Medium-Sized Trees Desirable Medium-Sized Trees (Continued) Desirable Large-Size Trees Desirable Large-Size Trees (Continued) This publication is an update of a bulletin prepared by Dr. Phillip C. Kozel and Elaine K. Toth in 1974. It was printed as Environmental Series No. 6 by the Cooperative Extension Service and College of Agriculture and Home Economics of the Ohio State University and the Ohio Agricultural Research and Development Center. It was prepared to present the results of a 10-year comprehensive evaluation in urban and suburban areas of new introductions of shade and ornamental trees for use in the North Central United States. The original research was supported by: OARDC Cincinnati Gas & Electric Co. Ohio Chapter ISTC-(now ISA) Dayton Power & Light Co. Ohio Nurserymen's Association Monongahela Power Co. Ohio Edison Co. Ohio Power Co. Cleveland Electric Illuminating Co. Columbus & Southern Ohio Electric Co. This revision was supported by The Ohio State University, Department of Horticulture; Ohio's Investor Owned Utilities; and the Ohio Department of Natural Resources, State Urban Forestry Division. Copyright The Ohio State University 1994 Selecting and Planting Trees Bulletin 845 Selecting and Planting Trees Selection of trees depends on the desired effect and the purpose trees will satisfy in the landscape. Will they attract birds to the area? Shade a patio? Screen an unsightly view? Enhance the view of the home? Identify 2
an entrance or exit? Trees should provide contrast and relief from surrounding buildings and create seasonal interest in areas near the home. When selecting a specific tree consider hardiness (ability of the plant to survive extremes of winter cold and summer heat); mature height and spread; growth rate; cleanliness; type of root system; moisture and fertilizer requirements; space available; maintenance requirements; availability; ornamental effects, such as branching habit, texture, and color of bark, flower, fruit and foliage; and whether the tree is evergreen or deciduous. Susceptibility or resistance to environmental conditions, disease and insect problems may limit your selections. A close analysis of the specific site might also help identify problems. Consider the prior use of the planting site and soil conditions, such as poor drainage, and high or low ph. The presence or absence of channelized winds and the location of utilities both above and below ground are site conditions that dictate plant choice and location. The relationship of the plant to roads, walkways and security lighting should also be considered. The space available at the specific site and mature tree size are important considerations and addressing these limits will go a long way towards reducing maintenance costs. The planting diagram shown below represents this graphically. In no instance should trees exceeding 25 feet be planted under overhead power lines. Do not forget the underground utilities. Out-of-sight does not mean that they would not have to be serviced at some point. Permanent plantings such as trees should be spaced to allow utility service. Ground-level utility structures such as transformers and individual service connections require space to be serviced. A minimum of 10 feet is needed. Available Tree Types Trees can be purchased in three common forms: 1) bare-root, (BR) 2) balled and burlapped (B & B) and 3) container-grown. Bare-Root Bare-root plants are normally transplanted in October or early November and again in March to mid-may. These plants may be sold with the roots tightly packed in a moisture-retaining medium that is wrapped with paper or plastic or with roots loosely covered by a moist packing medium. If bare-root trees cannot be planted soon after purchase they should be temporarily planted (heeled in) by removing the packing materials and covering the roots with soil 3
or organic matter, such as wood chips and watered regularly to prevent drying of the root system. Bare-root trees are normally less than 21/2 inches in diameter. Balled and Burlapped Many trees are moved with a ball of soil protecting their root system. Soil balls are heavy (approximately 100 lb./per cu.ft.). Because of the weight involved, professional landscapers or arborists who have proper equipment should be hired to plant large trees. Smaller soil balls should be carried with a hand under the ball. Carrying a balled tree by the stem or branches can result in a seriously damaged root system. Mulch and water B & B trees thoroughly if they cannot be planted soon after purchase. B & B trees are usually larger than bare-root trees and have a more extensive root system, often allowing for a shorter establishment time. Trees up to 8" in diameter are considered to be commercially transplantable using this method. Container-Grown Many tree types are grown in containers. Advantages of this type are that the root system is undisturbed at the time of planting, and trees can be planted throughout spring, summer and fall. Roots must be pruned immediately before planting container-grown trees. Root pruning normally leaves about 50 percent of the roots in containerized plants, which is sufficient to permit plant establishment. This compares with about 5 percent or less of the root system being transplanted with either B & B or BR plants. Always remove the container prior to planting. If container grown plants cannot be planted at the time they are purchased, place them in a sheltered location and water to keep the soil moist. Container-grown plants can be transplanted anytime when the soil temperature is 50 degrees or higher. This allows time for the plant to be established prior to the onset of winter and to avoid damage from the freezing and thawing of the soil during winter following planting. Planting Trees Planting is one of the most important cultural practices that determines success or failure of tree establishment. Transplanting is not successful until the tree returns to a normal growth rate. This transplant recovery period normally takes three years, but may range from 2-8 years. To get the most satisfactory performance from trees, attention must be given to planting details. Using quality plants and following good cultural practices such as watering, pruning and fertilizing will not compensate for poor planting techniques or poor plant selection. The usual planting seasons are spring and fall. However, container-grown trees and some B & B trees can be transplanted anytime during the growing season if proper watering practices are followed. 4
Where to Plant Community ordinances may restrict planting of trees near power lines, parking strips, street lights, sewers, traffic control signs and signals, sidewalks and property lines. Municipalities may require planting permits for trees planted on city property. City codes often require that trees on city property be maintained by the city, so citizens planting an improper selection can cause problems for themselves and the municipality. How to Plant General planting steps are as follows: 1. Measure the height and diameter of the rootball or root spread. 2. Dig the hole 2-3" shallower than rootball or root depth. The hole diameter should be 11/2 to 2 times the diameter of the rootball or root spread. 3. Set the tree on undisturbed solid ground in the center of the area. The tree should be planted 2-3" higher than it was in the nursery due to Ohio's heavy clay soils. 4. Backfill with a mixture of two parts soils from the planting hole and one part organic matter. 5. Use water to pack or settle the soil around the rootball to secure the plant. 6. A saucer of soil should be in place so that water is directed down through the roots or rootball rather than around the rootball. 7. Mulch with 2 to 4 inches of mulch such as woodchips or compost. 8. Trees should be pruned to remove broken, damaged or dead branches. Be careful not to remove any more than one third of the leaf-bearing surface at a single time. The natural shape of the plant should be retained. When planting bare-root, containerized and balled and burlapped trees there are several specific considerations: Bare-root: Trees, and especially exposed roots, must be kept moist prior to planting. Containerized: The root mass will need to be pruned to prevent circling or girdling roots. Balled and Burlapped: Set the rootball in the hole and remove all twine and nails. Remove or loosen the burlap from the upper third of the rootball. Wire baskets should be cut and folded down so that the top of the wire is one foot below the soil surface. Tree Wrap Wrapping the trunks of newly planted trees can help reduce insect damage. Before applying tree wrap the trunk should be carefully inspected to ensure that there is no mechanical damage and that serious insect and disease problems are not present. Wrapping an injured tree could worsen the condition if disease or insects are present. Tree wrap should be applied from the bottom up and secured to the tree with 5
biodegradable twine. The tree wrap should be removed within one year, normally during winter due to lower light levels at that time of year. Guying and Staking Guys or stakes should only be used when necessary, such as when roots are not solid in the planting hole or where the tree could be dislodged by high winds. In most instances the weight of the rootball is normally sufficient to hold the tree in place, assuming it was properly planted. Guys or stakes should be secured to the tree using a wire through a hose and attaching the guy or stake wires at that point. Normal attachment is at two-thirds the height of the tree. To avoid girdling the tree stem, guys and stakes should be removed after one year or earlier if the wire causes problems. Post-Planting Care For at least one to two years after planting, trees should receive about 1 inch of water per week during the growing season. During hot and dry weather, supplemental irrigation is essential for tree establishment. Remember that excessive water can be as much of a problem and probably kills more plants than does a water deficiency. To help determine when watering is needed plant a drought-indicator plant in the rootball of the tree. Plants such as impatiens, coleus and ajuga wilt dramatically. If these plants are planted into the rootball of the tree, the tree can be watered whenever the indictor plant has been in shade for at least one hour and is still wilted. Mulch should be maintained for at least a year at a depth of 2 to 4 inches. In addition to helping to maintain moisture and reducing competition from weeds and grass, mulches may reduce the possibility of lawn mower damage. All educational programs conducted by Ohio State University Extension are available to clientele on a nondiscriminatory basis without regard to race, color, creed, religion, sexual orientation, national origin, gender, age, disability or Vietnam-era veteran status. Keith L. Smith, Associate Vice President for Ag. Adm. and Director, OSU Extension. TDD No. 800-589-8292 (Ohio only) or 614-292-1868 Ohioline Search Fact Sheets Bulletins 6