Installation, Operation & Maintenance Instructions

Installation, Operation & Maintenance Instructions for RainSava Eco Pro domestic rainwater harvesting systems January 2016 Rainharvesting Systems Ltd. Calf Way, Bisley, Gloucestershire GL6 7BX 01452 772000 ON COMPLETION OF INSTALLATION PLEASE ENSURE THIS MANUAL IS PASSED ON TO THE OWNER / OCCUPIER www.rainharvesting.co.uk

CONTENTS Section 1 Section 2 Section 3 Section 4 Section 5 Section 6 Section 7 Section 8 Section 9 Section 10 Section 11 Receipt of Goods Health & Safety Preparatory Notes System Components Work Schedule Installation - External Works Installation Submersible Pump Installation Internal Works Commissioning the System Maintenance Trouble-shooting www.rainharvesting.co.uk

Section 1 Receipt of goods and off-loading procedure Receipt of Goods Deliveries to site will be arranged where possible to fit in with customer requirements, but we cannot always delivery precisely when required. We will always however arrange deliveries with the site supervisor. The site supervisor is advised to ensure that all goods are thoroughly checked against delivery documents. Any missing or damaged items must be reported within 3 working days of delivery. In particular it should be noted that the condition of the tank becomes the responsibility of the site supervisor once unloading has commenced. Off-loading of tanks Please read and understand the following instructions fully before commencing offloading. These instructions are provided as a general guide and do not allow for nonstandard site-specific issues which may arise. Failure to adhere to these instructions may compromise the structural or operational integrity of the product, which will be deemed outside the responsibility of Rainharvesting Systems Ltd. or the tank manufacturer. Disclaimer: These notes are for guidance only. Rainharvesting Systems Ltd are not contracted for the offloading and installation activities of the product. It is the responsibility of the customer and their designated contractor to ensure safe and proper offloading and installation. We can not accept liability for this activity. THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE OFFERED FOR GUIDANCE ONLY. OFF-LOAD THE UNIT USING SUITABLE MECHANICAL EQUIPMENT OPERATED BY TRAINED PERSONNEL. THE EYELETS ON TOP OF THE TANK ARE FOR GUIDE ROPES ONLY. DO NOT LIFT THE TANK BY THE EYELETS LIFTING STRAPS THE TANK SHOULD BE HOISTED USING CERTIFIED WEBBING STRAPS WHICH MUST BE SUFFICIENTLY RATED FOR THE WEIGHT OF THE UNIT BEING LIFTED. DO NOT EXCEED THE LIMIT STATED FOR THE WEBBING STRAPS USED. LIFTING STRAPS SHOULD BE OF EQUAL LENGTH. ONLY LIFTING STRAPS ARE PERMITTED TO BE IN DIRECT CONTACT WITH THE UNIT (NO CHAINS). CHAINS CAN ONLY BE USED BETWEEN THE STRAPS AND CRANE IF CERTIFIED. LIFTING STRAPS ARE NOT PERMITTED TO BE PULLING IN ON THE BODY OF THE UNIT. PLEASE ENSURE THAT THE SLINGING ANGLE DOES NOT EXCEED 60O AT THE HOOK IN ORDER TO ELIMINATE EXCESSIVE COMPRESSIVE LOADS ON THE SIDE OF THE UNIT. DO NOT LIFT THE TANK IF IT CONTAINS ANY WATER USE GUIDE ROPES TO MAINTAIN LATERAL CONTROL OF TANK WHEN LIFTING UNIT

DO NOT SUBJECT THE TANK TO SHARP IMPACTS THE GRAVITATIONAL BALANCE OF THE UNIT SHOULD BE TESTED BY THE CRANE MAN AND BANKS MAN BY TRIAL LIFTING THE UNIT NO MORE THAN 6 INCHES BEFORE COMMENCING ANY POSITIONAL ACTIVITY. THE WEIGHT OF THE TANK DEPENDS ON THE MODEL AND THE INCLUSION OF OPTIONAL EXTRAS. PLEASE CONTACT US IF YOU NEED TO DETERMINE THE WEIGHT OF YOUR UNIT. STORAGE DURING STORAGE ON SITE THE TANK SHOULD BE PLACED ON LEVEL GROUND AVOIDING ALL POSSIBILITY OF ACCIDENTAL DAMAGE. ALL OPENINGS TO THE TANK MUST REMAIN COVERED TO PREVENT INGRESS OF UNWATED MATERIAL THE TANK SHOULD BE TIED DOWN DURING PERIODS OF HIGH WINDS. IF THE TANK DOES NOT CONTAIN STABILISING FEET THEN IT SHOULD BE CHOCKED WITH SUITABLE MATERIALS TO PREVENT IT ROLLING. DO CHECK THAT ALL ITEMS DELIVERED CORRESPOND WITH THE PACKING NOTE - IF IN DOUBT WITH REGARD TO ANY ASPECT OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE CALL FOR ASSISTANCE.

Section 2 Health and Safety PLEASE READ CAREFULLY THIS ENTIRE SECTION OF THE DOCUMENT COMMENCING WORK. BEFORE We advise that all relevant Health & Safety precautions applying to such works are implemented and that risk assessments and method statements are prepared as required. Rainharvesting Systems Ltd. can provide generic risk assessments and method statements on request. IMPORTANT: It is the installers' responsibility to ensure that the installation is carried out in accordance with: WRAS Guidelines Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 Health & Safety at Work Act BS 8515 Rainwater Harvesting Systems - Code of Practice EN 1717 Protection against pollution of potable water (Category 5 air gap) All electrical work must be carried out by a qualified electrician.

Section 3 General Principles and Preparatory Notes Operating Principles It is essential to have general understanding of the operating principles of a rainwater harvesting system in order to ensure a simple and successful installation. The diagram below gives a schematic example of the system. Water is collected from the buildings roof drainage system via a filter unit, into a tank. The filter removes all particles greater than 0.28mm and adds oxygen to improve the water quality. The filtered water then enters the tank through a special calmed inlet to reduce turbulence. If there is too much water, the tank overflows through a special overflow trap that incorporates a non-return device. This prevents water from the storm drain flowing back in to the tank. Water collected from roof surfaces only Top-up water via AA air gap gravity feeds back to the tank during dry spells Services supplied directly under pressure from the pump Intelligent pump controller keeps standby power to a minimum (0.2W) and gives control and diagnostics to the pump No open gulleys High performance Vortex filter removes all debris before it can reach the tank Mains top-up water connects between filter unit and tank Calmed inlet diffuser High quality submersible pump with suction filter Overflow trap

The collected water is then pumped on demand to specific points (usually WCs, washing machine and garden tap). If insufficient water is available in the tank, the system provides a low level top-up to the tank. This raises the water level by 9cm, leaving the remainder of the tank empty to catch the next rainfall. Note: The pump is of the submersible type, located within the tank Mains water must not connect directly to rainwater (or any other non-potable source) The mains top-up incorporates a Type AA air gap in compliance with Water Regulations. This means that the water from this point must reach the tank by gravity. The pipe leading from the air gap to take water to the tank must have a fall of at least 1:100 and must be a minimum of 50mm diameter The top-up water should connect to the pipe that links the filter unit to the tank, and not to the tank itself It is very important that any water entering the tank should be as clean as possible and this is ensured by use of high quality rainwater filters. It must therefore be observed that the filter elements are only removed for cleaning purposes and that this is done when no water is flowing through the unit (i.e. in dry weather) It is essential that these filters are kept clean and we therefore recommend that the stainless steel filter element of all pre-tank filters is removed for cleaning approximately every two months (or more often if it proves necessary). A visual check is not sufficient. Often the filter element is dirty even when it appears clean to the naked eye; a biofilm can develop within the fine mesh, effectively blocking the holes. Cleaning is achieved by either brushing with a fine nylon brush with running water or in a dishwasher. Blowing through with a high pressure air-line has also proved very effective. Important Please read and understand these notes fully and plan where each of the components will be fitted before commencing work. Plan pipe runs and levels carefully before commencing work. Note that both the filter unit and the tank have overflow connections, which must connect to soakaway or storm drain. Rainwater downpipes should connect directly to the underground drainage pipes. Do not have open gullies connected to the system. This avoids the risk of undesirable materials entering the tank (e.g. painters slops). Once the tank is on site ensure all openings are kept covered until the installation is completed. DO NOT allow soil or other material to enter the tank, and keep the inside of the tank as clean as possible. If the tank is to be installed within an area subject to vehicular traffic, a reinforced slab must be cast over the top of the tank such that it spans the excavation. Consult a structural engineer if necessary. The MDPE pipe carrying rainwater to the house must be black with green stripes to distinguish it from the mains water supply. Standard blue pipe must only be used for mains water. Interior pipework should also be clearly identified as non-potable. We stock self-adhesive marker tape for this purpose, as well as valve tags and appliance labels. WC cisterns should be fitted with compact float valves; e.g. Fluidmaster rather than conventional ballcocks. Do not remove the 2-pin plug from the end of the pump cable, as this has to connect into a corresponding socket on the pump controller.

Section 4 System Components RainSava GRP rainwater storage tank THE MAIN COMPONENTS OF YOUR SYSTEM. NOTE IMAGES ARE NOT TO SCALE. WFF100 Vortex filter unit. To be located in the ground prior to the tank Flow calming inlet diffuser. Pre-fitted into the tank during manufacture. Provides gentle, no turbulence flow and oxygenation. Multisiphon overflow trap. Pre-fitted into the tank during manufacture. Provides effective seal against drain odours and incorporates a backflow prevention device. Zeta 02 automatic pump controller. Switches the pump on and off in response to water demand. Ultra-low standby energy consumption (0.2W) Rainwater delivery pipe. 32mm OD x 25m coil of MDPE pipe for pumped supply between tank and house Submersible pressure pump. Shown here with fitted float switch and floating suction filter. Takes its power from the Zeta 02 controller. N.B. on smaller tanks a fixed filter is supplied to be attached directly to the pump RainSava mains water top-up unit. Solenoid valve opens when level control float switch drops. The tundish provides the statutory air gap to comply with Water Regs. Level control float switch. Attaches to the pump and controls the mains water top-up unit. The fixed position permits precise switching points Intermediate piggy-back switching plug enables simple connection of the float switch to the top-up unit.

Section 5 Suggested work schedule Phase 1 - Civils These works constitute part of the buildings drainage system and are normally carried out at groundworks stage. Ascertain depth of excavation for storage tank. This is dependent upon the invert level of the drain, the type of filter used, and the size of tank. particular attention should be paid to this in order that the tank is installed at the correct depth. Excavate hole and install tank (refer to manufacturers installation guide) Connect tank overflow to soakaway or storm drain Install service duct from tank to building (e.g. utility room or plant room). N.B. ensure that suitable draw cords are laid into the duct in order to pull the pipe and cables through at a later stage. KEEP THE DUCT AS STRAIGHT AS POSSIBLE AND USE ONLY LONG- RADIUS BENDS Insert the pump delivery pipe (either flexible hose or MDPE pipe) through the duct. This is best achieved by inserting the pipe into the duct at the tank end. The pipe can then be pulled through from the top end using one of the draw cords, Use care to ensure that no debris enters the pipe (Or is left in it) during this operation. Excavate hole and install rainwater filter and connecting pipes (refer to manufacturers installation guide) Connect 110mm pipe from filter to tank inlet. Install mains water top-up pipe from building to join this pipe. (i.e. it should connect into the pipe between the tank and the filter) Connect filter waste outlet to soakaway or storm drain Phase 2 Mechanical and Electrical The following works constitute part of the mechanical and electrical installation and are normally carried out at the final stage of building. Install the pump and suction filter/float switch assembly into the tank. Connect the outlet hose of the pump to the MDPE pipe using the brass elbow connector provided. Pull the pump cable and float switch cable through the duct, using the second draw cord. Fit the pump controller and mains water top-up unit in the building (e.g. utility or plant room) Make mechanical and electrical connections to pump controller, top-up unit and level gauge. Commission the system.

Section 6 Installation External Works Rainwater storage tank and vortex filter Please read this entire section before commencing work. PLEASE PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE FOLLOWING NOTES: It is very important that the tank is installed at the correct depth to allow the installation of the pre-tank filter unit(s). There is always a difference between the inverts of the filter inlet and outlet connections. The tank will normally have three connections; the inlet, the overflow and a third connection on the access shaft, which is to act as a service duct for the pump delivery pipe(s) and/or cables. The service duct connection accepts standard 100mm underground drainage pipe. It is important that when the pipe that is to act as duct is installed, it should be as straight as possible and that any bends are 'slow' or long-radius bends. One or more draw-cords must be fed through the duct as it is being laid. It is important that no site material or dirty water is allowed to enter the tank. As soon as the tank is installed, all connecting pipes must be sealed wherever there is an open end to prevent this from happening. The tank must have its' access cover fitted and must not be left open. The same applies to the pre-tank filter unit(s). The filter element must be in place to prevent leaves etc. or any other debris entering the tank. The pipes that connect into the system upstream of the filter and tank must ONLY carry rainwater collected from roof surfaces. No grey water or water from paved or trafficked areas should be allowed to enter the system. If the system requires mains top-up water to the underground tank, the pipe carrying mains water must not enter the system before the filter unit. We recommend that it connects to the pipe which links the filter to the tank, as shown below. N.B. this is not required if your system uses a break tank (header tank). F draw-cord through duct floor slab where pipes are open, they must be sealed until installation is complete filter element must be in place D A to drain C filter unit(s) B tank E to drain A. Incoming rainwater B. Filtered rainwater C. Excess and debris D. Service duct E. Overflow from tank F. Mains water top-up pipe

1. Plan the pipe runs to and from the filter and tank, and the pipe to carry mains water top-up plus the pipe to act as a cable duct. A fall of at least 1:100 must be provided for the water inlet pipes. All pipework in the ground should be bedded on and surrounded with 150mm pea gravel. 2. Decide upon the location of the storage tank and filter unit, bearing in mind pipe runs and invert levels. 3. Install the WFF 100 Vortex filter according to the instructions supplied with it. Ensure that the two outlet connections of the filter are connected to the appropriate pipes. The lower of the two must connect to the storm drain, the upper one to the tank. Please retain the filters instructions as this contains important information regarding maintenance of the filter. inlet 4. Install the tank in the ground allowing for a sufficient fall from the Vortex filter outlet. Rainsava tanks supplied by ourselves are supplied with full installation instructions; it is very important that these instructions are followed strictly. To drain To tank 5. Lay the 110mm pipework to and from the Vortex filter and from the tank to the soakaway. Rainwater down-pipes should join directly to drainage pipes via drain connectors and not via gully traps. This avoids the risk of someone inadvertently pouring undesirable liquids into the system, resulting in contaminated water. (e.g. painters slops, garden chemicals etc.) The pipe leading into the filter must only be connected to rainwater downpipes and must not receive surface water run off. The Vortex filter accepts standard 110mm pipe. 6. In high ground water conditions, where there is a risk of water backing up from the soakaway into the filter unit, we recommend the use of an inline flap valve on the waste outlet pipe from the filter unit. The tank is already protected by the inclusion of the special anti-backflow overflow trap. 7. Lay the pipe for the mains top-up water. This must come from the location in the house for the top-up unit and must have a fall towards the tank. This should then join the pipe that connects the filter to the tank (see sketch below). Note this is best done using standard 110mm drainage pipe for the underground pipe run.

N.B. this pipe is a GRAVITY feed so must fall toward the tank 8. Lay the 110mm pipe to act as a service duct from the house to the connection on the access shaft of the tank. This pipe must be as straight as possible and where any bends are required they should be of the long-radius or slow type. As the pipe is laid, ensure that 2 suitable draw-cords are laid through the pipe. These will be used to pull through electrical cables from the pump and float switch, and the 32mm MDPE rainwater pipe from the pump. 9. Ensure both ends of the black & green MDPE pipe are capped off or sealed with tape or similar, to prevent dirt and debris from getting in to the pipe. Now feed the MDPE pipe through the duct from one end, using one of the draw cords to pull it from the opposite end. There should be about 15cm of pipe protruding in to the shaft of the tank. At the other end within the house, the pipe needs to reach the location of the controls. It will connect to the Zeta pump controller. 10. N.B. The other draw cord needs to remain in place for when electrical cables are pulled through.

32mm delivery pipe Draw cord Long-radius bend 110mm duct pump Important notes Plan pipe runs and levels carefully before commencing work. Note that both the filter unit and the tank have overflow connections, which must connect to soakaway or storm drain. Rainwater downpipes should connect directly to the underground drainage pipes. Do not have open gullies connected to the system. This avoids the risk of undesirable materials entering the tank (e.g. painters slops). Rainwater should only be collected from roof surfaces. Do not collect water from ground level paving etc. We do not recommend collecting water from planted green roofs. Pipe carrying mains top-up water should join the pipe that connects the filter to the tank as per the sketch on the preceding page. Once the tank is on site ensure all openings are kept covered until the installation is completed. Do not allow soil or other material to enter the tank, and keep the inside of the tank as clean as possible. If the tank is to be installed within an area subject to vehicular traffic, a reinforced slab must be cast over the top of the tank such that it spans the excavation. Consult a structural engineer if necessary.

Section 7 Installation Submersible pump Rainwater pump with suction filter and float switch The submersible pump will be supplied with a float switch and either a fixed or floating suction filter, depending on tank size. The suction filter protects the pumps in case any debris gets in to the tank, and avoids water being drawn from the very base of the tank. The float switch attaches to the pump, but is otherwise not connected to it; its purpose is to activate the mains water top-up unit, not to control the pump. 1. The pump is supplied complete with four rubber anti-vibration mounts and a lifting rope. Begin by fitting the mounts to the base of the pump with the nuts and washers supplied. Clip the lifting rope on to the small hook at the top of the pump. 2. Fit the suction filter to the pump inlet port (bottom of pump): i) If you have the fixed suction filter, this simple needs to be screwed directly into the pump inlet ii) If you have the floating type, first assembly it by pushing the flexible hose on to the filter nozzle, then connect the other end to the pump inlet 3. Fit the float switch. This fits around the body of the pump using the worm-drive clamp and should be fitted about 30cm from the bottom of the pump. Ensure it is firmly fastened and that it is free to move without being obstructed by the suction filter. As it is mounted on the swivel pin, it provides very accurate switching. It is useful to attach the cable to the pump body using cable ties, but make certain there is sufficient cable slack to allow free movement. The assembled pump should now look like this: Approx. 30cm

4. Fit the stainless steel non-return valve nozzle into the outlet (top) port of the pump. Now fit the 1 rubber hose to the nozzle and secure with one of the jubilee clips. Ensure all joints are tight. N.B. this hose will have to be trimmed to length later (see below) 5. At this point it is wise to clip the pump and float switch cables together with the hose at about 20cm intervals, making sure not to pinch the hose. This keeps things neat and prevents cables becoming tangled. 6. Now carefully lower the entire assembly down into the tank, taking care to ensure that the weight of the pump is taken by the lifting rope. DO NOT USE THE CABLES TO LOWER THE PUMP Rope slightly taut but not tight Cable tied neatly to pressure hose Non-return valve Sufficient slack in cable to allow free movement of float switch

7. The rope should now be tied off near the top of the tank so that it can be easily reached again in future. A stainless steel hook is supplied with the pump for this purpose. Fasten the rope so that the slack is taken up, but it is not taut. 8. The rubber hose must now be trimmed to length so that it can be joined to the MDPE pipe that was installed earlier and should now be protruding from the service duct; with the pump in place, mark the hose approximately 4cm lower than the bottom of the MDPE pipe: 4cm Pump platform 9. DO NOT leave the hose too long, as this will cause lateral pressure at the top of the pump. This can result in the pump leaning sideways, causing stress on the hose and connections. In extreme cases it can cause the pump to topple over, trapping the float switch or damaging the suction filter. 10. Lift the pump back up to ground level, and cut the hose where you marked it. This end of the hose can now be fitted with the brass connectors as shown. Ensure joints are tight and threads are sealed. Useful tip: a smear of vaseline or similar in the end of the hose makes it easy to push it on to the brass hose barb. 11. Carefully lower the pump back in to the tank again so that it sits upright on the pump platform.

12. Rotate the pump so that the suction filter is facing along the length of the tank, and let the pump gently rest on the platform in the base of the tank. This prevents the risk of the suction filter getting caught on the side of the tank: x 13. With the pump in its final position, connect the vertical hose to the MDPE pipe: Ensure joints are sealed. 14. Ensure that the free end of the lifting rope is secured for future use (we provide a stainless steel hook for this purpose). Secure it so that the rope is slightly taut (but not tight) 15. The cables from the pump and float switch can now be pulled through the service duct using the second of the draw cords. N.B. DO NOT REMOVE THE PLUG FROM THE PUMP CABLE The cables are the same length so can easily be taped together. Fix the cables to the draw cord SECURELY (e.g. Gaffa tape or similar) and pull carefully through the duct. this is best done with two people; one pulling gently at the top end; the other at the tank end ensuring the cables are not getting tangled or caught on anything. 16. Lay the pipe for the mains top-up water. This must come from the location in the house for the top-up unit and must have a fall towards the tank. This should then join the pipe that connects the filter to the tank. Note this is best done using standard 110mm drainage pipe for the underground pipe run. 17. Note: the pipework inside the house from the tundish to floor level can be 50mm, but no smaller. Ideally this should have a trap arrangement at the bottom of the vertical pipe in order to prevent cold air from the tank entering the building. (see drawing in the following section)

Important notes Plan pipe runs and levels carefully before commencing work. Note that both the filter unit and the tank have overflow connections, which must connect to soakaway or storm drain. Rainwater downpipes should connect directly to the underground drainage pipes. Do not have open gullies connected to the system. This avoids the risk of undesirable materials entering the tank (e.g. painters slops). Pipe carrying mains top-up water should join the pipe that connects the filter to the tank as per the sketch below. Once the tank is on site ensure all openings are kept covered until the installation is completed. Do not allow soil or other material to enter the tank, and keep the inside of the tank as clean as possible. If the tank is to be installed within an area subject to vehicular traffic, a reinforced slab must be cast over the top of the tank such that it spans the excavation. Consult a structural engineer if necessary. Brass elbow connector 1 BSP nippel 1 hose barb 1 ID rubber pressure hose Hose clamp 32mm MDPE pipe non-return valve

Section 8 Installation Internal Works RainSava mains water top-up unit and Zeta 02 automatic pump controller 1. Decide on the location within the house for the pump controller and the mains water top-up unit. Note that the Zeta pump controller requires sufficient space on either side of it for pipe and electrical connections. Also note the top-up unit has a flexible connection hose but that the tundish MUST be vertical. 2. NOTE: The pump controller and the mains water top-up unit are entirely separate and require separate power supplies. Both supplies are 240v; pump controller 10A, top-up unit 1A 3. There should be two cables from the service duct as installed earlier (see previous section notes). One of these will have a pre-fitted 2-pin plug attached; this is the cable from the pump. DO NOT REMOVE THE PLUG The other cable will be a bare end and is the cable from the float switch. 4. The pressure gauge can be fitted to either side of the pump controller; decide which way round suits best bearing in mind that the side with the small control panel and power socket needs to be accessible. Fit the gauge to the desired side using the two small screws provided; note that the third screw MUST be fitted into the central hole on the opposite side to prevent water escaping. 5. Fit the steel mounting bracket to the wall and then mount the controller on to it, securing with the brass nut. To WCs etc. Isolating valve Outlet ZETA PUMP CONTROLLER Inlet Power socket Control panel 6. Fit the brass MDPE connector to the inlet of the controller below the bracket. Use PTFE or similar to seal the threads. MDPE connector 7. The MDPE pipe from the service duct can now be connected to this fitting. Ensure a tight connection. 8. Fit the brass isolating valve with the red handle on to the outlet of the pump controller. The supply pipework to WCs and other outlets can be connected to this valve. The valve allows the system to be isolated if required and incorporates a drain cock that enables the system to be drained down if necessary. Leave the valve in the closed position. 9. Connect the pump controller to a power supply. This can either be a conventional switched socket or it can be hard wired in to a switched fused outlet rated at 10A. DO NOT SWITCH ON YET

10. Connect the cable with the 2-pin plug from the submersible pump into the corresponding socket on the controller (beneath the square flap): MAINS WATER TOP-UP UNIT Solenoid valve Dirt strainer Isolating valve 11. Fit a 50mm pipe vertically to the wall and connect it to the underground pipe that is to carry the top-up water (see Section 6 External Works). Ideally this should have a trap arrangement at the bottom of the vertical pipe in order to prevent cold air from the tank entering the building. (see drawing on following page) Laminar flow device Note the purpose of the tundish is to tundish provide prevention against backflow of rainwater to the mains water supply, and is MAINS WATER TOP-UP ASSEMBLY required by law under the Water Regulations Act. The idea is that if there were a blockage in the pipe leading to the rainwater tank / filter, water would spill over the edge of the tundish rather than reach the mains water outlet nozzle. This is extremely unlikely in most installations, as the water would first back up into the underground filter and through the vent holes in its lid, and therefore spilling harmlessly on to the ground. (we have never known it to happen in 20 years of experience) However, if this is of particular concern, then an emergency overflow arrangement can be fitted such as shown in the diagram on the following page. 12. Fit the top-up assembly to the 50mm pipe. The tundish simply sits into the open end of the pipe and must be vertical. The isolating valve at the end of the flexible hose must now be connected to a 15mm mains water supply. Ensure that the pipe is supported to prevent any lateral strain on the tundish. 13. Connect the bare cable from the float switch in to the special piggy-back intermediate plug PLEASE NOTE THE WIRING CONNECTIONS AS SHOWN: Float switch cable wired into piggy-back plug, viewed from inside br bl

SUGGESTED ARRANGEMENT FOR MAINS WATER TOP-UP TO UNDERGROUND TANK MAINS WATER TOP-UP ASSEMBLY mains water in solenoid valve Type AA air gap Tundish fits into pipe 50mm pipe Note that when the water passes through the air gap into the pipe, it is no longer under pressure, but flowing by gravity. The pipe therefore must fall towards the tank, and must be at least 50mm diameter. Minimum 500mm Optional emergency overflow Overflow if used must discharge outside of building and be visible and screened S-bend arrangement provides water trap Pipe can pass through wall or floor to suit requirements N.B. this should link to the pipe that runs from the filter to the tank inlet. Fall to tank

Isolating valve Solenoid valve tundish piggy back plug Float switch 14. The top-up unit is supplied with a short cable for the solenoid valve. One end of this cable has a small square plug, the other has a round 2-pin plug. DO NOT REMOVE EITHER OF THESE PLUGS 15. Connect the cable with the square plug to the solenoid valve above the tundish, not forgetting the square gasket, and fix with the securing screw. 16. Connect the 2-pin plug at the other end of this cable into the socket of the piggy-back plug: 17. The piggy-back plug can itself now be plugged in to the UK/Euro adapter plug. This is turn can now be fitted into a standard switched socket. DO NOT SWITCH ON YET. Note the adapter plug is protected with a 3A fuse. PIGGY-BACK INTERMEDIATE PLUG Cable from solenoid Cable from float switch

Pipe & valve identification Apply adhesive identification tape to all pipes that are used to convey rainwater to WCs and other outlets. All outlets should be labelled appropriately. The adhesive tape and labels are supplied with each system: 25mm x 33m roll of self adhesive pipe marking tape. Complies with WRAS Guidelines and BS 8515 Set of 4 38 x 50mm adhesive labels. Use for applying to inlet of washing machine and inside lid of WC cisterns 100 x 75mm stop tap adhesive label. For use at mains water stop tap to indicate which services within the property are served by rainwater 75 x 100mm rigid sign for use at outside tap. Additional items are available on request. Important notes The Zeta 02 pump controller and the mains water top-up unit must be installed in a dry frost-free location and both must be accessible for maintenance. Both the pump controller and the tundish of the top-up unit must be vertical. The pump controller should ideally be mounted such that the small control panel is visible and easily accessible. The top-up unit must be at least 500mm higher that the tank that it is supplying. The socket beneath the flap on the side of the pump controller must ONLY accept the cable from the pump. The cable from the solenoid valve must plug in to the socket of the special piggy-back plug, after having first wired in the cable from the float switch. The power for the pump controller and the power for the piggy-back plug are entirely separate circuits and DO NOT CONNECT WITH EACH OTHER (though both can connect into the same 2-gang socket) If the cables from pump and float switch are of insufficient length for you requirements, they will obviously need to be extended. If so this should be done either after the cables exit the service duct, or within the access shaft of the tank, well above the maximum water level. Any junction boxes used must be rated IP67 or higher.

Section 9 Commissioning Before starting, check that all preceding stages of installation are complete; that all plumbing connections are sound and that all electrical connections are correct. Before commissioning can be carried out, there needs to be sufficient water in the storage tank for the pump to operate. If the tank has not yet partially filled with rainwater, it can be given a low level top-up from the mains water supply. 1. Open the manual isolating valve on the mains water top-up unit. Now switch on the power supply to this unit in order to energise the solenoid valve. The solenoid should open and water will begin to flow through the tundish into the 50mm pipe. 2. Check that there are no leaks and that the water passes through the tundish in a straight column without splashing. N.B. IF THE WATER PRESSURE IS PARTICULARLY HIGH AND SPLASHING IS OBSERVED FROM THE TUNDISH, IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO FIT A PRESSURE REDUCING VALVE. Solenoid valve tundish Laminar flow device Dirt strainer MAINS WATER TOP-UP ASSEMBLY Isolating valve 3. The mains water should continue to flow until the float switch in the rainwater tank is in the raised position. IF THE WATER CONTINUES TO FLOW AFTER THE FLOAT SWITCH IS FULLY RAISED THERE IS A FAULT. Solenoid closed Solenoid open

Check the solenoid operation by switching off the power to the top-up unit; the solenoid should now close fully. If it closes properly, then check that the float switch is raised and not obstructed and that the cable of the float switch has been correctly wired in to the piggy-back plug. If the wiring is correct, the float switch may be faulty. Call for advice. 4. When there is sufficient water in the tank (i.e. float switch fully raised) the pump can now be turned on. Firstly open the manual isolating valve on the outlet side of the pump controller. Open any taps that are connected to the system. 5. Switch on the power supply to the pump controller; the POWER lamp will illuminate and the pump should now operate, indicated by movement of the pressure gauge and illumination of the ON lamp. If the pump carries on running, it will purge any air in the system and any WC cisterns will fill until their valves close. Close any taps once all the air has been purged. 6. With all outlets closed, the pump should cease pumping and the gauge should settle at around 3 4 bar (this will vary from one installation to another) 7. If the pump cuts out after the initial start, and the red FAILURE lamp illuminates, then pump has not fully primed. Press the RESTART button to start the pump again; sometimes this process must be repeated several times before all the air is purged from the system and the pump is fully primed. 8. The system is fully primed and ready when the ON and FAILURE lamps are off and the pressure gauge holds steady. N.B. if it is observed that the pressure on the gauge gradually falls, this indicates a leak in the system. Refer to the troubleshooting section. 9. Ensure that any pipes within the building have rainwater identification tape applied, and that any outlets are labelled appropriately. Adhesive marking tape and labels are supplied with each system, and additional items are available on request. For technical support call 01452 772000

Section 10 Maintenance One of the great benefits of choosing the RainSava Eco Pro system is that only minimal maintenance is required. Generally this is easily carried out by the householder with no need for specialist knowledge or tools. If however, you prefer this to be undertaken by someone else, then please enquire after our annual maintenance service. The required maintenance is described below; particular attention should be paid to the 3-monthly cleaning of the vortex filter. The vortex filter unit was supplied with a special handle to allow easy removal of the filter insert. This should be kept somewhere safe. If lost, replacements are available; call 01452 772000 Ensure you know the location of your rainwater storage tank and the vortex filter. The black plastic lid of the vortex filter is easily identifiable; it is approximately 30cm diameter and is embossed with the word WISY. The lid is removed by turning a few degrees counter-clockwise and lifting. The cover of the storage tank will vary depending on what was installed by the contractor, but should be at least twice the size and located fairly nearby. VORTEX FILTER LID

EVERY 3 MONTHS Vortex filter The element of the filter unit must be kept clean failure to do so will cause a serious lack in efficiency, and eventually the filter will cease to divert water to the storage tank. INLET Remove the lid of the filter unit by twisting it a few degrees anti-clockwise and lifting. The filter element can now be removed using the lifting handle supplied. (see diagram overleaf) TO TANK CUTAWAY VIEW OF THE VORTEX FILTER UNIT The element must be cleaned thoroughly, paying particular attention to the internal upper part of the cylinder, close to the rim. Note that the fine mesh can often appear clean even though it may be blocked; a fine biofilm can develop which is hard to see. The best check is to hold it up to the light and look through the inside of the cylinder. Cleaning can be done either manually using a scrubbing brush, or using pressure washer, or by cleaning in a dishwasher. DO NOT USE abrasive cleaners or wire brush. TO DRAIN REMOVING THE ELEMENT FROM THE VORTEX FILTER FOR CLEANING Insert the handle onto the upper rim of filter element Twist clockwise to locate under the pins Lift the element clear of the filter body

EVERY YEAR Zeta 02 Pump controller Check that the pump controller does turn the pump off at the end of each demand cycle, i.e the pressure will drop slightly and the 'On' lamp will go out to indicate that the pump has switched off. If the system is serving WCs check that the pump does not cycle off and on again at the end of each fill, this could be caused by a dripping ballcock in one of the cisterns. Turn off at main switch (or unplug unit) and close the valve on outlet of the Zeta pump controller, then after approx 5 seconds turn on again; the result should be: - (a) Amber 'Power' light comes on, (b) Pump runs (with green 'On' light showing) for approximately. 5 seconds, (c) pressure gauge should settle at approximately 3.5 bar. Note the maximum pressure on the gauge. Flush a WC. And slowly open valve on the controller so that the pressure falls. Note the pressure at which the pump starts; - it should be around 1.5 bar, and observe that the pump switches off as it should once the WC cistern has filled. Check that the pressure gauge remains steady after the demand for water has ceased and the pump has switched off When there is no demand for water (i.e. all outlets are closed) the pressure gauge should remain steady. Check also that there is no sign of water emitting from the small breather hole in the very top of the controller. If water is present this could indicate that the units' diaphragm is deteriorating and needs replacing (see next page) Power lamp indicates there is power to the controller On lamp indicates the pump is running Failure lamp indicates the controller has cut power to the pump Breather hole

ZETA 02 PUMP CONTROLLER - CHANGING THE DIAPHRAGM The Zeta controller is an automatic switch unit for operating a pump. It switches the pump on in response to a drop in pressure, and then switches it off again when the flow of water ceases. Within the unit is a rubber diaphragm, which acts like a small expansion vessel. To allow the diaphragm to flex, there is a small hole in the top of the unit. If water is seen to be leaking from this hole, it indicates that the diaphragm has ruptured, and therefore needs replacing. breather hole cap retaining screws Before attempting to open the Zeta housing, it must be isolated from the mains power supply, and the internal pressure must be released. Switch off the power supply and pull the 13A plug out of the socket. Close the isolating valve (red handle) on the outlet side of the unit. Hold a container below the valve to catch any water and open the bleed screw on the valve to release the pressure. The unit can now be opened; undo the six cap retaining screws; note there is a large spring inside the cap: Isolating valve Bleed screw / drain down diaphragm retaining cap Housing cap removed showing internal spring and diaphragm

With the cap removed, the diaphragm can now be pulled out; note this is a tight fit so you may need to pull with some force on the central retaining cap. Once removed, undo the screw in the centre of the retaining cap. The diaphragm assembly can now be taken apart: retaining cap diaphragm spindle diaphragm assembly removed diaphragm removed from spindle and retaining cap Change the diaphragm for the new one and re-assemble the three parts; ensure the retaining screw is fully tightened. Please note the old Diaphragm may be deformed as a result of years of use so may not appear the same shape as the new one. For example, see the photos below. Replace the diaphragm assembly into the unit and then fit the spring and housing cap onto the main body. Tighten the 6 screws evenly, a few turns at a time on each, and ensure the cap fits snugly into the body. Ensure all are fully tightened. Now close the bleed screw on the isolating valve. Open the isolating valve. Open an outlet on the circuit (e.g. flush a WC cistern) Re-connect the Zeta unit to the power supply and switch on. The pump should begin operating ('On' lamp illuminates and gauge should show pressure rise). If the pump only operates briefly and the 'Failure' lamp illuminates, press the 'Reset' button above the indicator lamps. Repeat if necessary. The controller should now operate normally. In the event of any problems please call 01452 772000 for technical assistance.

Mains water top-up assembly Pump Check that there is no dripping from the tundish nozzle, and that lowering the float switch in the tank causes the solenoid to valve open. (this can be achieved by carefully lifting the pump by its lifting rope until the float switch is clear of the water) Check and clean the laminar flow nozzle to remove limescale and any other debris. Check and clean the dirt strainer filter within the isolating valve assembly. (close isolating valve first). Check general condition of pipes, cables and insulation The pump is located within the underground rainwater tank, so the tank must be opened in order to access it. Depending on the tank size, there could be up to 2m of water inside. TAKE GREAT CARE WHEN OPENING THE COVER AND DO NOT LEAVE AN OPEN TANK UNATTENDED. ENSURE PETS AND CHILDREN ARE KEPT WELL AWAY FROM THE AREA Remove the pump by carefully hauling it up to ground level using the lifting rope. N.B. it will weigh about 20kg. Take care not to damage the float switch or suction filter that are attached to the pump. solenoid valve Check and clean the suction filter and check it s connection to the pump. Check that the float switch is free to move and is not restricted by any cables etc. Replace the pump carefully ensuring that it is upright and is sitting on the platform at the base of the tank, and that the lifting rope is secured with the slack taken up, but not taut so that the pump cannot fall over. Check condition of the vertical flexible hose whilst the pump is running, and check that there are no signs of abrasion of the hose. Check the connection for leaks where this hose joins the horizontal MDPE pipe and tighten if necessary. Check also the condition of cables and any waterproof connectors used in the tank and that any surplus cable is coiled so that it does not interfere with float switch or floating filter. Ensure the lid of the tank is securely fixed and sealed when checks are complete. isolating valve dirt strainer laminar flow nozzle System pipework etc. Any WC valves that contain filters should be checked (and cleaned if required) annually. It is a recommended precaution to shut off the supply to any outside taps and empty the tap during winter periods when frost is likely.

EVERY 10 YEARS Storage tank As the filter unit is so effective, the tank only ever holds relatively clean water. However there will be a gradual accumulation of fine sediments. Under normal conditions the tank should not require any maintenance. However in some situations such as where the property is surrounded by many trees, or is near the coast so the roof is subject to a lot of bird droppings, occasional cleaning of the tank may be required, though this is unlikely to be necessary any more frequently than10-year intervals. If cleaning of the tank does become necessary, it can either be carried out by specialist contractors or be done by a competent householder, but unqualified personnel SHOULD NOT ENTER THE TANK. The tank must only be entered by qualified persons with relevant Confined Spaces Training. However, the tank can be cleaned fairly successfully without going inside it. This is done by first emptying the tank (ideally this should be done after a long dry spell when there is little water in the tank anyway). You will need to obtain a sump pump (available from hire centres) Commence by turning off the electrical supply to the mains water top-up unit. If a garden tap is supplied by the rainwater system, the pump can be used to empty the tank as much as possible. Lower a sump pump into the tank taking care not to interfere with the rainwater pump, suction filter etc. Get the pump to sit on the bottom of the tank alongside the pump platform. DO NOT ENTER THE TANK Switch on the power to the sump pump and empty the tank of water. When water level is almost at the bottom of the tank, use a pressure washer with a long lance to wash down the inside of the tank in order to dislodge any sediment. Pay particular attention to the bottom of the tank, and also wash the rainwater pump and other fittings if required. Repeat this process until the water in the tank appears to be clear. Remove the sump pump and check that the rainwater pump is correctly in place and that the suction filter and float switch are free to move. Turn power supply on again to the top-up unit. The tank should now begin to fill with mains water and should continue to do so until the float switch rises (about 30cm depth) The system is now ready for use again. For technical support call 01452 772000

Section 11 Trouble-shooting Nature of fault Cause Remedy No water available from the system Pump controller constantly switching pump on and off. Pump runs continuously Pump does not deliver sufficient pressure Power supply has tripped a. Tank is empty and mains water supply is isolated. Pump controller dry-run protection has activated b. Pump controller is faulty c. Pump is blocked d. Power supply is interrupted e. Plumbing failure between pump and controller (major leak) Leak in the system, or an outlet is not fully closed. (e.g. WC valve is not closing properly) a. Water loss (leak) of more than 0.7l/s b. Debris is preventing the non return valve inside the controller from closing c. PCB* of pump controller defective a. Floating suction filter is blocked b. Air is entering the pump via the suction filter c. Pump is defective d. Leak in the pipe between pump and controller a. Water or moisture on electrical contacts b. Pump controller not working c. Pump or cable is defective. a. Open isolating valve on mains top-up unit and allow to run until it switches itself off. Then re-start the pump by pressing the RESET button b. Press the RESET button - if no response, call customer service c. As above d. Check electrical connections, including any fuses or circuit breakers e. Check pipes and joints between pump and controller and rectify Check all consumer valves in rainwater supply pipework for leaks NB If closing the isolating valve on the outlet of the pump controller solves the problem, this indicates that the fault lies after the controller (e.g. WC leaking); if no change when valve is closed, this indicates pressure loss between pump and controller a. Check consumer valves and rainwater pipework for leaks b. Check and clear the non-return valve in the controller c. Replace PCB* a. Clean the outside of filter surface with a fine brush b. Check the suction filter is secured; adjust if necessary c. Call customer service d. Check and repair leaks a. Check electric plugs and cables on pump controller, solenoid valve and pump b. Check power supply and PCB* c. Check that pump is functioning properly; if pump has failed, see below

Nature of fault Cause Remedy Pump has failed Mains top-up water running constantly Solenoid valve appears to work but only a small flow of water passes through the tundish. Solenoid valve does not open, but is cold to touch. Tank has run dry and the system has stopped working. a. No water in tank b. Pump has no power c. Check noise from pump when switched on: 1-No noise = pump is dead 2- Humming = capacitor failed 3- Loud buzzing or mechanical clunk = impellers jammed 4-Whirring = pump is turning but has lost its prime a. Float switch on pump is faulty or trapped (cannot move) b. Solenoid valve is stuck open a. Poor mains water supply. b. Solenoid valve is only partially open. a. No power to solenoid valve. b. Solenoid valve has failed. c. Float switch is stuck in the raised position. a. Partially refill tank then Restart the pump controller b. Check pump by plugging directly in to a 13A supply (use an adapter plug). If pump works, then the controller is at fault. If it doesn t then: c. Call technical support if required: 1- replace pump 2- replace capacitor 3- pump must be repaired / replaced 4- pump needs re-priming Close isolating valve on mains top-up unit and: a. Check float switch and remove blockage if necessary b. Check valve for operation and blockage. Replace if necessary a. Check and remedy the cause of the weak mains water supply. If this cannot be remedied, then consider raising the level of the float switch in the tank. (call for advice) b. Solenoid valve is jammed. Dismantle and clean. a. Check the power supply is OK and check fuse. Remedy as required. b. Check solenoid operation by connecting directly to power supply#. Replace if faulty. c. Check float switch. If in the raised position but above the water line, float switch has got stuck or become caught on something. Solenoid valve does not open but feels warm. Tank has run dry and the system has stopped working. a. Solenoid valve has jammed close. b. Mains water supply is off. a. Test by connecting the solenoid directly to a power supply#. If it stays closed, switch off power until problem is solved. Dismantle and clean solenoid and try again. b. Check that manual valve is open, and that mains water supply is present.

Nature of fault Cause Remedy Mains top-up is not functioning c. Isolating valve is closed d. Solenoid valve is stuck closed e. Float switch is faulty or has jammed. c. Open valve. d. Check solenoid for operation and blockage. Replace if necessary e. Check float switch and replace if necessary PCB = printed circuit board # The solenoid valve is only powered when it receives a signal from the float switch; this will normally only happen with the float switch in the down position. The operation of the solenoid can be checked by connecting it directly to a power supply: If the solenoid is connected via an intermediate piggy-back plug, it can be checked as follows; unplug the solenoid cable from the piggy-back plug, then remove the piggy back from the white 2-pin adapter. Check the 3A fuse in the adaptor. Now plug the solenoid cable directly in to the adapter. If the solenoid opens, it is OK, if not, it is faulty. UK /Euro adapter Solenoid plug Piggy-back plug CHECKING THE SOLENOID VALVE: Plug from solenoid plugged in to piggy-back plug and euro adapter Plug from solenoid plugged directly in to euro adapter N.B. If the solenoid is connected via a fused outlet (hard wired), then the same result is achieved by linking the blue and brown conductors of the float switch cable. N.B. This must ONLY be carried out by a qualified electrician. CUSTOMER SERVICE: 01452 772000 Monday - Friday 9.00-17.00 VALVE ON PUMP CONTROLLER VALVE ON MAINS WATER TOP-UP ASSEMBLY