Introduction Arne Jensen Landscaping Inc. was started in 1976 by Arne Jensen III with a mission of service. For thirty five years our love for people and the art and science of horticulture have been the foundations of our company. Arne Jensen Landscaping is divided into three different entities; design, construction and maintenance. We serve the residential, as well as the commercial industries of our area. We consider it a great honor that people, and businesses, trust us with their dreams and goals for their property. The responsibility is one of not just quality but creativity. As each of us are entirely different persons, so are our tastes and passions outdoors. Because of this, it is our goal to get to know you, our customers, so that your property is a reflection of your heart and vision. We appreciate the relationships we get to build in this business, and we protect them carefully. Our goal is to utilize sound horticultural principles and hard work to produce the best product for each of our customers. Horticulture is a science that is constantly changing as research reveals new methods for each aspect of our business. To offer maintenance, or new construction that is second to none, you have to invest in education. Arne Jensen, the founder of the company, and Aren Jensen, his son, both have degrees from Oregon State University in Horticulture. We appreciate the time we get to know you or your business and look forward to serving you for years to come.
Guarantee Arne Jensen Landscaping Inc. guarantees your plants, irrigation system, and hard goods to be rid of defects ad a result of parts or poor workmanship for one year after completion. Parts or materials that fail within the first year after completion will be repaired or replaced at no cost to the customer. Arne Jensen Landscaping Inc. is not responsible for defects that occur as a result of neglect, vandalism, extreme weather conditions, or improper maintenance of the irrigation system, plants or hard goods.
Yearly Landscape Maintenance Calendar Winter Maintenance- winter provides us a time to prepare for the rest of the year. As our landscapes slow down, we can focus on elements that are hard to attack through the growing season. From simple irrigation repairs, to structural changes within the landscape, the winter is an important time. Monthly Priorities: January- 1. Complete all leaf cleanup 2. Winter pruninga. limbing up of deciduous trees b. limbing up of conifers in lawn areas c. thinning and structure pruning of pine trees d. pruning of summer blooming deciduous shrubs e. pruning of non blooming evergreen shrubs f. pruning ground cover (ivy, cotoneaster, vinca) 3. Mow 1 time only if necessary- remove clippings February- 1. Completion of all bed cleanup 2. Pruninga. winter pruning completion b. pruning of Red-Twig Dogwood toward the end of the month c. rejuvenation of overgrown shrubs d. pruning of St. Johns Wort. 3. Fertilization of all groundcovers and shrubs- balanced 4. Fertilize turf lightly- high nitrate fertilizer 5. Cleanup of annual beds 6. Mow 1-2 times during month- remove clippings Chemical Control e. Pre-emergent application for early weed control f. Watch for early detection on crane fly in turf Additional Costs- bark application to the shrub beds every year or every other year.
May- 1. Deadhead Rhododendrons and rake beds for spent blossoms of all flowering shrubs. 2. Prune Rhododendrons and Azaleas lightly (post-bloom) 3. Fertilize shrub and groundcover areas again- high nitrate 4. Cut back daffodils approx. 6 weeks after bloom 5. Start up irrigation system at the beginning of the month. 6. Mow 4+ times during the month- remove clippings Additional Costs- thatching and aerating are important practices in the spring and fall. Thatching is not always necessary but aeration is. Depending upon the age of your turf and its current condition these practices may or may not be necessary annually. With the activation of your irrigation system, there is also a chance for extra costs due to repairs necessary as a result of vandalism, or other unmanageable factors (storms etc.) Summer Maintenance- this time of year provides an abundance of growth, as temperatures fluctuate immensely. Careful monitoring is essential to maintaining a healthy, balanced landscape. Irrigation is our biggest concern as temperatures rise, and the amount of stress on plants and turf increases. Trees and shrubs, once they have matured, have a deep root system, which allows them to deal with extended periods of drought. Turf is not as fortunate as its root system is 3-6 deep, which makes it quite susceptible to drying out. With well-planned irrigation, we can avoid loss and drying out. June- 1. Start summer pruning of (ivy, vinca, photinia, arbutus) 2. Use liquid fertilizer to annuals, except petunias and lobelia 3. Monitor irrigation for dry spots and washed out areas 4. Mow 4+ times during the month- recycle clippings Chemical Controla. Shrub bed spraying weekly
b. Spot spray for broadleaf weeds in turf. July- 1. Groom bark beds 2. Summer pruning of hedges, groundcovers and early summer bloomers. 3. Fertilize turf as necessary- high nitrate 4. Monitor Irrigation, run times will be at the highest level. 5. Cut all petunias back 6. Mow 4 times during month- recycle clippings Chemical Controla. Spot spray all beds and turf for broadleaf August- 1. Complete all summer pruning 2. Reduce irrigation slightly at the end of the month 3. Mow 4 times during month- recycle clippings Fall Maintenance- as September hits and things start to slow down, there are a lot of adjustments that need to be made in the landscape. Through summer our focus is on careful monitoring. As fall sets in our attention is more focused on cleanup, but monitoring increases as well. This is the most challenging time of year in the maintenance business. Keeping up with the fall leaf removal almost doubles the amount of time spent on a job, so careful management of other landscape elements such as increased disease potential in the turf, is essential. September- 1. Begin fall leaf control; focus on the most visible areas around entries (we will use the blower to move leaves into areas where they can be picked up at a later point, without being an eyesore. Leaves will be blown onto the lawns where possible to be picked up by the mowers.) 2. Fertilize all shrubs, trees and groundcovers to initiate and encourage root growthbalanced fertilizer
3. Fertilize all turf areas- balanced fertilizer 4. Start planting pansies 5. Check annual beds, add new potting soil if needed 6. Mow 4 times during month- remove clippings 7. Monitor turf for Red Thread, Rust and other diseases Chemical Controla. Apply pre-dormant spray for horsetail, poison oak and blackberries (Round- Up Crossbow) b. Apply pre-emergent herbicide to beds as needed to control weeds October- 1. Continue leaf removal. 2. Reduce irrigation to one application per week, shut off irrigation beds. Depending upon season shut off entire system and drain toward the end of the month. 3. Mow 3 times during the month, lower the mowing height- remove clippings 4. Monitor turf for Red Thread, Rust and other diseases Chemical Controla. spot spray for weeds if necessary November- 1. Focus on leaf removal through month 2. Make sure all irrigation systems are shot off and drained 3. Mow 1-2 times, or as necessary- remove clippings 4. Start winter bed work Additional Costs- Thatching and aerating lawn areas to open up the surface and overcome compaction that can occur through the heat of summer.
Note: Maintenance Guide I. Irrigation System Operation: Water is a resource that is not to be wasted or abused. The responsibility that comes with owning an automatic irrigation system is one of conservation. We have a wonderful freedom in this country and particularly in this state as to our access to water. To manage this resource carefully we, the contractor, have to work with you to find a balance between what is safe and what is wasteful. As we discussed earlier our goal is 1 of water applied per week. You can figure that your small spray heads can apply that amount in one-half hour, whereas rotor heads take up to an hour and a half to achieve that goal. So in calculating your watering schedule, set each valve so that the total minutes of any given week equal one and a half hours for rotor heads, or one half hour for spray heads. An easy way to monitor this is by watching for puddling. If puddling occurs, you most likely are over watering. As seasons change, it is important to monitor and change your clock or schedule. Our climate lends to a great deal of fluctuation, so be ready to shut your clock off for the day, even in the summer. 1. Our Responsibility: At the completion of your irrigation system, our responsibility is to: a. Adjust all heads for ideal coverage. b. Set your clock and watering schedule. c. Teach you how to run and reprogram your clock so monitoring and adjustments can be made. 1. Customer Responsibility: a. To schedule meeting times during the installation process to discuss specific concerns of the customer. b. Reprogramming the clock when needed to adjust for over or under watering c. Hand watering new plants in their establishment period to keep root zone moist. (This is especially important on hot windy days.) Your sprinklers will require periodic adjustments throughout the year. Our team will teach you how to adjust each of your heads at the end of the installation process. This will allow you to make minor adjustments as needed.
IRRIGATION SHUT-DOWN By late fall it will be time to shut your system down. At this time you will need to locate one of three devices that serve to regulate your flow, facilitate draining, and protect your water form contamination. Your irrigation system taps directly into your main water source. To insure that no harmful chemicals, pollutants, or other undesired contaminants make their way into your house water, we install a device that allows water into the irrigation system but never out. These devices are listed below. 1. Double Check Valve- this device is what most of you will find as it is the newest and safest method. Your DVC (Double Check Valve) can usually be found close to your water meter and contained within a rectangular 12 green valve box. You may also find a 6 round valve box near your rectangular 12 box that contains a valve as well. Both of these valves control the water flow to your irrigation system. You will find 2 large main valves on your DVC at each end of the device. Find the valve that is closest to your water source. In most cases the valve closest to the water-meter and the street will be your best bet. Turn this valve to the perpendicular off position. Leave the other valve in the on position at all times. Following this, locate three bleeder valves (small) that are located 90 degrees turned to the side and in between the two large valves. Once you identify them, use a flat head screw driver and slowly open each of the valves with a 90 degree turn to the on position so that water is coming out. Do not unscrew them all the way. Once water has stopped flowing, continue turning the bleeder valves to the on position until they are loose, do not unscrew them all the way. Leave them loose to allow them to continue to drain over the winter. Leave the gate valve in the off position for the winter as well. Once you have completed this process it is a good idea to manually run your clock through its cycle. Although the system is shut down, this will open the valves and help remove any remaining water. This is not totally necessary, but it can be helpful. Check low points in your yard to see if the water is draining. 2. Simple Valve- this valve is contained within your 6 round valve box, it should be turned on in the spring and summer and off in the late fall and winter. This valve is most often used as a pre-shut off to your DVC. By placing this valve before the DVC we can shut off the irrigation system and
maintain water to your house while removing the DVC if it needs to be worked on. However it is possible that your system has just one simple valve for shut-off. This is not a safe way to go but it is done. In this case contact our company and we will help upgrade your system. 3. Pressure Vacuum Breaker- this is an older device that sticks up above ground. You will recognize it by its shape, which resembles a bell on top. You will find a valve directly below the brass top (bell). This valve serves as a shut off to the system. In the winter turn this valve to the horizontal position. Once the valve is turned off locate the 2 small drain valves underneath the bell cap and above the shut off valve. You should be able to open these by hand but it is possible a small wrench may be necessary. Open each of the 2 valves and allow them to drain. Following that, you will need to look for a faucet or valve which can be opened to drain the system more completely. Your progression will be watermeter, pressure-vacuum-beaker, and drain, so look on the opposite side of the PVB from where the meter is located. Some contractor s option and some do not. If you do locate a drain, open it entirely and allow it to drain to the point that the water has stopped. At this point shut the valve and wrap your PVB with insulation of some sort to protect it from freezing. Note: There are other aboveground back flow devices which are rarely used these days but do work and are legal. If you seem to have any of these, please call us for servicing the first time. We will help you to understand its use and proper care.
Spring Start Up: In late March to Early April it may be time to start your system up again. To protect your system and get it started again properly, you will need to follow a step by step process. 1. Locate your double check valve or pressure vacuum breaker. 2. Make sure the valve closest to the water meter is turned off. (the second main valve should already be open but if it is not, open it. The three small bleeder valves should be open as well, but now they must be closed for the summer season.) 3. If the second valve is open, slowly open the valve closest to your meter being careful not to let all the water through at once (1/3 of the way, wait, the next 1/3 and so on). 4. Once completely open, take a walk around your yard and look for any wet spots where a pipe might have cracked. 5. If no leaks are found, start running each of your valves manually, or through your clock. 6. As each valve is run, check each sprinkler head to make sure it is adjusted correctly and is not broken. (Take a note pad with you to write down the zone and head that is malfunctioning.) 7. Once you have checked each valve and each sprinkler head, it is time to set your clock. 8. In the spring you will not want to water more than 2 times a week, depending on the weather. Make sure your clock settings are appropriate for the amount of rainfall occurring. 9. Lastly, go back and take a walk around your yard once more after several days to make sure no problem spots are showing up. Sprinkler System Guarantee: * One year parts and labor on the entire system. (We guarantee the system to be free form defects for one year after project completion.) * Freeze damage that occurs is covered only with a separate winterization contract. * Repairs needed as a result of vandalism, neglect or other means outside of our control are not covered under our guarantee. Note: Warranty is effective upon completion of your system.
Winterization Program: 1. Shut down and draining of the system in Fall. 2. Repair of any freeze damage caused by water being trapped in the pipe in spring. 3. Start-up of the system in the spring including adjustment of all heads. Note: This program can be applied to any irrigation system, existing or new. Repairs to freeze damage, however, are only covered on systems installed by Arne Jensen Landscaping. The cost of this service is determined by the size and complexity of your system.
Irrigation Schedules: Remember your landscape is constantly changing and so are your watering needs. Take time to walk around once a month to monitor your system during the growing season. Careful maintenance on your part can eliminate problems before they present themselves. Each part of your yard is different. Slope, texture, mulch etc. are factors that can effect your landscape. If you follow the basic monitoring guidelines that we have given you, your home or business will remain beautiful year-round.
Seed Lawns 1. Initial Maintenance: A. Newly seeded lawns are extremely sensitive. Once we start watering them it is imperative that we continue watering them consistently. B. Until germination occurs our goal is to maintain a moist warm seed bed. To do this we need to water at short and frequent intervals. Please note, however, that we want to avoid over-watering at all costs. Anytime you detect puddling or runoff you know that the duration you are watering is to long and needs to be cut back. Note: Over-watering can essentially cause the seed to drown as it can not get enough oxygen. Over-watering can also encourage certain turf diseases. Over-drying of the seed bed can also cause death of the seed through lack of moisture. So water lightly and frequently and keep a close eye on your new lawn. 2. Following Germination: A. Once germination occurs, the watering needs for your lawn have changed. At this point you can cut back the frequency of your watering slightly. No longer is the seed relying on you to provide everything it needs. B. The seed now is starting to root and can more easily attain water for itself. This does not mean, however, that you can cut way back, but less frequently and for a longer duration. Note: Don t be alarmed of all the seed does not germinate at the same time. As sawdust or other mulches are applied, slightly different seeding depths are created which staggers germination. It will all germinate in time. 3. Mowing Your New Lawn: A. You will want to mow your new lawn as soon as there is something to mow. This often is three to four weeks after you plant. People often wait too long, such as when their grass is six inches long. In this case when you mow you are removing all of your nitrogen. This depletes the storage of the plant as it has worked hard to grow so long. This creates a weaker stand of grass that often stays thin, and become rough. To avoid this, mow as soon as you have grass to mow. This will stimulate growth and cause the least amount of stress to your new lawn.
B. As a general rule never remove more than one third of the grass length in one mowing. In situations where this is unavoidable, mow the lawn twice, with the first setting being higher than you want it and the second at the desired height. The best strategy is to slowly bring the length of the lawn down over two to three weeks. This allows the lawn to recover slowly and eliminates all the stress occurring at once. C. It is also important to reduce the amount of water you apply before you mow. You want a firm surface to mow on so that rutting doesn t occur. 4. Fertilizing A. Approximately 4-6 weeks after planting it is time for your first application of fertilizer. Choose a ratio high in nitrogen with moderate levels of phosphorus and potassium. B. You can repeat fertilization to encourage filling in, but make sure you water the fertilizer in if it is not time-released. Some fertilizers have a coating that allows them to release over a 30, 60 or 90 day period. In this case, it is not as important to water it in because the product is sealed. However, of you start to water a slow release fertilizer in at a hot time of the year and don t continue, it is still possible to burn your new lawn. As a good rule, water consistently when using fertilizers with time release or without. J. Fertilization Calendar 1. There are five key times to fertilize during the year. Early Spring (March-April) Late Spring (May-June) Mid Summer (June) Late Summer (August-September) Fall (October-early November)
New Sod Lawns: 1.Watering: A. When your new sod comes to you it is important to remember that it has just lost a substantial portion of its roots. Because of this, we want to keep it moist at all times for the first two weeks after installation. Unlike a seed lawn, sod is not struggling to germinate, but rather to root in. For this reason we can water a little longer and less frequently than with seed. The idea is to encourage the sod to go in search of water with its roots. By waiting longer between water applications and watering longer when we do, we force the roots to deepen. A deep root system is then capable of obtaining its own water and sustaining a period of drought without causing die back. Note: Check water application section to figure standard watering guidelines for new and established sod. 2.First Mowing: A. Depending upon the conditions when your sod lawn was planted, you may be mowing anywhere from a week to two weeks after installation. In the peak of the season with adequate watering you will most likely be mowing within a week to ten days. If you try and install in the late fall it may be two to three weeks before you can mow. As a rule, when your sod reaches a height of three to three and a half inches, it is ready for mowing. We suggest not waiting past three inches. Remember to back off on your watering prior to mowing to avoid rutting the lawn. 3.Fertilization Timing: A. Your sod will come to you with a month s supply of fertilizer conditioned into it. During this period you want to concentrate on mowing regularly and watering. 4-5 weeks after installation you will be ready to fertilize. At this point choose a high quality slow release fertilizer (30-60 days). This will allow your sod lawn to be spoon fed over a period of time. B. Often people apply fertilizers in heavy doses and soak them in so heavily that they leach 90% of the nutrients straight through the soil. To avoid this, don t over-water immediately after fertilization, but rather start lightly and frequently and slowly get longer and less frequently.
4.Weed Control: C. There are five times a year that fertilization is most effective and produces the best results. Early Spring (March-April) Late Spring (May-June) Mid Summer (June) Late Summer (August-September) Fall (October-early November) D. Spring and Summer applications should contain high levels of nitrogen and low amounts of phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen encourages growth, which is what we are striving for at this time. Late fall application is different because we don t want to encourage growth as much as we do rooting. Phosphorus (the P or middle number in your ratio) encourages deep rooting, so we want to use fertilizer high in phosphorus and lower in nitrogen and potassium. Your local garden store can direct you to the appropriate combination. Note: The three numbers shown on fertilization bags stand for the amount of N-P-K (Example: 21-7-5/ Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium) present in their product. For most of the year you will want something very high in N and low in P and K. Fall is the exception, when we look for a fertilizer higher in Phosphorus. A. Once you have mowed your lawn 5-6 times and things look fairly well established (seams not showing noticeably) your sod is capable of handling a broadleaf herbicide. Be careful to follow the application rates shown on the bottle. In most cases no application will be necessary for the first season. B. To control weeds you have to control the source. Keep weeds around your property sprayed out to avoid constantly redistributing their seeds. It is also helpful, if you have a field, to mow the weeds before they go to seed. Weeds are also transferred by mower. If you have a company maintaining your property, remember they are
mowing 20 other yards that day that are full of weeds and other undesired grasses. It is virtually impossible to clean equipment thoroughly enough to prevent the spread of weeds this way. The best protection you have is what we call good turf culture. If you mow, water, and fertilize on a regular basis, your lawn will be able to prevent weeds on its own by out-competing them.
Maintenance Calendar for Established Lawns: A. Most lawn maintenance issues are decided by necessity. We respond to each emergency as it presents itself. While emergencies are always going to occur, it is best to learn how to avoid them. We do this by following a scheduled maintenance calendar. As a result we avoid many of the ups and downs in our landscape, and in turn create a well balanced enviroment. B. The time periods given to you here don t necessarily mean that these practices should not be done at other times in the year, but rather suggest the most optimal time. Poorly timed maintenance, however, can be disastrous. 1. Irrigation in inches per month: To achieve dense green turf April 2.3 May 3.6 June 4.1 July 5.2 August 4.7 September 3.1 October 1.6 (Months of November-March generally do not require irrigation) 2. Number of mowings required per month January 0-1 February 1-2 March 3-4 April 4-6 May 4-6 June 4-6 July 4 August 4 September 4 October 3-4 November 1-2 December 0-1
Note: Regular mowing will do wonders for your turf. Make sure you change directions regularly when you mow to eliminate unnecessary rutting.
3.Fertilization Time: March-April May-June July September-October December Fertilizer high in: Nitrogen Nitrogen Nitrogen Equal N-P-K Phosphorus Note: For best results, choose a high quality slow release fertilizer. You can choose from a 30, 60 or 90 day release depending upon how much and how often you are applying it. Of your tendency is to fertilize less frequent use the 60 or 90 day time release. If you are needing to green up your lawn fast, avoid time release fertilizers. If you do choose a quick-hitting fertilizer, remember you have to water it in when it is applied or your lawn can experience burning from the fertilizer. Regardless of the fertilizer, it is important to water consistently after application. 5.Thatching A. The best time to de-thatch your lawn is in early Spring between the months of March, April and May or in Fall during the months of September and October. What thatch does to your lawn is make it more susceptible to drying out and is less aesthetic. As thatch thickens, over time the roots to your lawn will actually be growing in the thatch. Because thatch is essentially dead and decaying grass it does not serve as a good reservoir for water. So as temperature rises your lawn relies in its roots to take in and absorb water, the roots are not able to because they are growing in an area that does not hold water. This causes your lawn to dry out very quickly. The lawn then has zero drought tolerance and consequently you are forced to water every day to prevent your lawn from drying out. To prevent this, remove your thatch in the Spring and Fall when the stress on your lawn is reduced. Spring is the optimal time of year because re-growth will occur quickly.
1. Aerating: C. There are several reasons that compaction (lack of aeration) occurs. The most obvious is traffic. When soil is trampled by either people, animals or equipment what occurs is a sealing surface. All of the fine particles of soil get packed together, not allowing air or water to move into soil. Without air a lawn or plant essentially chokes as we would. Without water a tree, shrub, or lawn dies as well. There has to be a balance of air and water moving into and out of the system or soil. When air is trapped out, a lawn is forced to thin itself out to survive. D. Compaction is also caused by over watering or massive amounts of rain followed by traffic. As soil reaches its saturation point (point at which it cannot absorb more water) and water is still being added, the soil particles begin to form a mud or slick. The mud essentially creates a seal over the soil as it dries. E. Solution- To overcome this problem that we frequently face in Oregon, we aerate in the spring and fall, if necessary to keep the soil surface opened up to allow for air and water movement. Note: This is not necessarily a practice that you will utilize every year. Keep a close eye on your landscape and especially your lawn. Compaction tends to affect lawns that thin out and especially shade areas. Your shrub areas should be okay as long as you keep a mulch applied at 2 in. in depth. Aerators are big awkward machines, so unless you are experienced at running one, I suggest you hire our company or someone with experience to run it for you.
Trees and Shrubs 1. Watering: A. As your new trees and shrubs are becoming adapted to their new environment, it is extremely important that the root zones remain moist for the first 3 months after they are planted. Depending on the type of soil you have, your watering times will differ. Heavier clay soils require longer, less frequent watering due to the fact that they hold water better. Lighter sandy-loam soils, on the other hand, move water through faster but do not have the same ability to hold water as do clays, so watering times are shorter and more frequent. B. As a general principal we want to apply 1-1.5 of water per week to our shrubs and trees during the growing season. It is important to note that this figure includes rainfall. So depending upon your soil type, you will want to calculate the amount of rain received in a week and subtract that from your total of 1-1-5. If you have an automatic irrigation system, your clock is pre-set with a schedule that will achieve this goal. It will need adjustment. To avid over-watering, remember to turn your clock off, or simply adjust your minutes depending upon how much rain you receive in a given week. Over-watering can cause your plants to drown, especially if the area they are in does not drain naturally. So keep a close eye on pockets of water that are consistently forming around plants; this a sign that the area is getting too much water. Plants need a balance of air and water; if they get an over-abundance of one or not enough of the other, they can suffocate. Note: Your new trees and shrubs may need some additional help from you when they are first getting started. Supplemental hand watering for the first two weeks may be necessary, especially if you are planting in the heat of summer-in which case it is mandatory. 2. Pruning: A. Trees and shrubs are extremely unique and, unfortunately, so are their pruning needs. With this being sail, there are some common principles that we can follow. In most cases, we want
to prune right after a tree or shrub has finished blooming. This is most commonly the safest and easiest time to prune. It is important to remember that this is not true for all trees and shrubs, but a majority. On newly planted trees and shrubs, pruning will often not be necessary for a year or possibly two, as plants are working hard to establish themselves and consequently are not experiencing a lot of growth. B. Perennials in general need to be cut back to the ground in the late fall. Remember as soon as you see your perennials start to thin it is a good sign that they need to be divided. To do this, divide the plants up into 2-3 or 4 sections and replant them. This is not true for all perennials, but many. 3. Fertilizing: A. Trees and shrubs need to be fertilized 2-3 times a year, optimally. Early spring (March) and mid summer (July) are the most essential times for trees and shrubs to be fertilized. Select a fertilizer high in nitrogen as to encourage growth and flowering at that time of the year. Early fall (October) is also a good time to encourage your trees and shrubs to root, as they are dormant over the winter. At this time of the year, we don t use nitrogen-based fertilizer but rather a fertilizer high in phosphorus. Phosphorus helps plants initiate rooting, which is what we want in the winter. Increased rooting creates more vigorous trees and shrubs the next year. B. A simple principle to follow when applying fertilizer to shrubs is the two fist-fulls of fertilizer at the base of each plant, one on each side, with care to not get any on the foliage. For small perennials one handful is plenty, and for large established shrubs three handfuls may be necessary. (This is a simple principle, obviously, and will need to be adapted if you have big or small hands.) C. To establish the amount of fertilizer to be applied to a tree, we first determine the size of the tree. The term caliper is one we use to describe the width of the trunk on a tree. Depending upon this measurement, you will make 10 six in. deep by ½ in. wide holes for every inch of caliper (width) a tree has. To apply the fertilizer, use a stick or rod to poke holes in the
ground around the tree. Place the holes in a circular fashion around the tree, evenly spaced, and moving out and awy from the trunk as more are added. Start 2-3 ft. away and evenly space to the edge of the canopy drip line. As trees get older (4-5 yrs.) and more established, it may not be necessary to fertilize, as they will be able to draw their own nutrients from the soil. For the first couple of years this may be important, however. 4. Insect and Disease Problems: A. Insect and disease problems are generally somewhat simple to solve but do take patience. The first step is finding out what is causing the problem. If you find an insect problem, do your best to trap as many of the insects as possible, as well as a sample of the damaged part. B. If you are dealing with a disease problem, which may be difficult to decipher, collect a sample of the damaged part of the plant. At this point you will want to get a hold of someone on our staff to help you diagnose the problem further, and develop a control strategy. I highly recommend Sunset s Western garden Book to all of our customers as a wonderful source for diagnosis. It is a great book to have on your shelf.
Water Feature Maintenance Anytime we find water in nature or in our backyard we are faced with a delicate ecosystem that needs unique care. To provide the care needed for our individual features we have to monitor carefully. Regardless of the type of filter system you have, your system is fragile and should be treated as such. 1. Draining your Waterfall: You are going to want to completely change your water at least once a year and preferably twice. The best times for this are in the Spring and late Fall. In the Spring it is important to drain your water feature and clean it from all debris that has fallen or been blown in over the Winter. If you have an algae problem, it may be necessary to let your pond remain empty for a couple days to let algae die off. This will greatly help your feature get off to a great start in the Spring. Late Fall is another key time to drain and clean your water feature. Wait until all of the leaves have fallen from the trees and then carefully remove all debris. With Winter on the way, draining will help your feature to remain clean and healthy through harsh winter months. 2. How to Drain: A. While the pump is running, open your drain valve. B. Once your drain valve is open slowly shut down the valve running to your water fall. ( As your water level drops keep a close eye on your pond as you do not want to allow your pump to run dry) C. As your is being removed from your pond, you want to take a hose with a spray nozzle and wash down any debris or algae that may exist along the sides. Once all of the water is removed it may be necessary to remove left over debris by hand. (Be careful as you climb down inside your pond. Use large rocks and don t stand on pointed stones as your liner can get hurt.)
D. Once you have your water feature cleaned, refill it and enjoy! Optional: Barrel based UV filter systems need to be drained as well at this time. There are drain valves at the base of your barrel filters that, when opened, will completely drain the barrels. If you keep your system running, do not drain these filters but rather keep them running normally as the circulation will prevent freezing of pipes. UV Filter- If you choose to drain your pond and Barrel filters for the winter, make sure you remove your UV filter and store it in a safe warm place. I do not suggest this for large features. Be very careful removing it. Note: UV filters that are drained and not removed during the winter will void their warranty. Optional: If you have an overflow valve, it may be necessary to shut down that valve in order to drain. Optional: Features having an automatic refill will need to shut down the water source controlling the refill. (If this is not done the pool will continue to refill itself as you are draining.) Note: If your pond does not have a drain it may be necessary to use a separate pump to remove the water. 3. Winterization: A. For ponds 3 ft. And deeper, I suggest keeping your waterfalls running during freezing weather. This will take the stress off of your pipes as everything will keep moving. Your pump is at the bottom of your pond, so in cases it will remain safe. If you have fish, they will not be affected by ice that forms over the surface of the water. (Remember to wrap all exposed pipes that are not insulated to protect them during the winter months.) B. Ponds shallower then 3 ft. are more susceptible to freeze damage, as ice formed from cold temperatures can damage your pump and exposed pipes. You have two options. One option requires completely draining your water feature. This reduces the effect of cold water which can expand and crack. Your second option is to keep your water fall running through the cold. For very shallow ponds I do not suggest this second option. Ponds 1 ½ - 2 ½ ft. will generally not be affected by cold temperatures. C. Wrap any exposed pipes during this times as well. 4.Changing your UV Bulb: Read entirely before Installing
(See booklet that came with your UV filter system for any additional information) A. To change your bulb, you will need to shut down the water supply supporting the filter system and disconnect the power supply. B. Allow a few minutes for water that is still remaining in the UV to drain out. C. Remove the end cap on the UV which is connected to your power supply. Be careful as your bulb is connected to the end cap. Note: For older models, your power supply is the end cap. In this case, screw the power supply off carefully and go slow, as the bulb is connected to it. D. Once you have it unscrewed, carefully disconnect the bulb from the power supply. E. At this point, slowly remove the bulb from the filter sleeve. F. Once your cap or power supply is re-installed, start your filter systm without plugging in the UV filter. This called a wet test, which is done to insure that no leaks exist. If you do not find any leaks, plug in your power supply and check the end of your UV filter to make sure its bulb is on and working. You should see glowing light. G. Once the old bulb is removed carefully slide your new bulb in. Note: Don t slide it all the way in as you will need to reconnect up your power source to the bulb. H. Once you have the bulb hooked up, slowly slide the bulb the rest of the way in and screw back on the cap or power supply.
First Year Expectations For Your Landscape: 1. Remember your shrubs and trees are adapting for the first year, so little growth will likely occur. 2. Your sprinkler heads will move and readjust themselves over the course of the first year. With new lawns, etc., it is important to monitor your irrigation system. 3. New yards that have just had bark applied for the first time, often need re-barking after the first year. This results from bark settling quickly into the soil, due to the over-watering. Expect this expense for the following year.!!!!!