Trees for North Texas

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Transcription:

Trees for North Texas

The Many Benefits of Trees ature native and adapted trees are one of the most valuable components of a landscape, whether for M their aesthetic beauty or the numerous economic and environmental benefits they provide. Trees Increase property values Serve as visual, noise, and wind screens Clean air Provide oxygen Cool surrounding areas (including your home) Reduce utility bills! Can help you save water Help prevent water pollution Help prevent soil erosion and control flooding Provide wildlife food and habitat Tree Selection What to Look for Selecting Native or Adapted Trees Native and adapted plants are the ideal choice for a beautiful water efficient landscape. Trees of varied structure, texture, and color can suit well-manicured and naturalistic landscape designs alike. A growing number of Texans are looking to incorporate more native and better-adapted trees into their home or business landscape for a variety of reasons: Drought tolerance Heat tolerance Lower water use Lower fertilizer use Fewer pesticides needed When selecting the right tree for your property, you might also want to consider: Growth potential Shape Function Water requirements (some use even less than others) Pest resistance Longevity (How long do they typically live?) Growth rate Is it deciduous (loses its leaves) or evergreen? Do you want an ornamental tree or a shade tree? Single trunk or leader Roots should fill the pot but not be circling. Check by inspecting root ball out of the pot. What to Avoid Undersized yellow leaves Trunk free of wounds Trunk flare should be obvious Plant Spacing and Placement Right Plant, Right place A healthy native or adapted tree is a valuable asset, but to ensure the best success, it should be planted properly and in the right place depending on the specific requirements for each plant. Read the plant tag! Pay close attention to hardiness, light requirement, sizing, and spacing. Proper spacing is even more important when considering planting medium to large tree species and their growth potential. Be mindful so the tree you select will not encroach on power lines or other problem areas as it matures. Trees with trunk wounds Weeds growing out of pot Roots growing out of pot (tree has been in pot too long) Multiple trunks or V shaped trees Roots circling the pot. Check by inspecting root ball out of pot. 1

NORTH NORTH Proper Tree Placement Shorter ornamental trees are good choices for avoiding electrical hazards and preserving tree health under powerlines. Large deciduous trees on the southern and western faces of the home will block the summer heat while allowing warmth to enter the home in winter. An evergreen tree wall on the northernmost area of the property will shield against harsh winter winds. Improper Tree Placement Planting large trees under power lines creates electrical hazards and is detrimental to tree health due to heavy mutilation requirements. Meanwhile, large evergreen trees placed on the southern face of the home can block warming sunlight in the winter months, contributing to inefficient energy use. Watering Trees Water is the most limiting factor for tree growth and overall health. The amount of water used in irrigation depends on soil texture, structure, temperatures, and the amount and timing of recent rain events. Trees planted in heavier clay soils with greater waterholding capacity will require less water. Over-watering these sites often leads to anaerobic soil conditions, leading to root diseases or even death. Supplemental watering should be part of your tree maintenance plan during periods without rainfall. Drought conditions can contribute to decline, making trees more susceptible to other pest problems. Irrigation systems designed to water turf MAY NOT sufficiently water your trees, and trees MAY require additional watering methods. Lawns can be replaced in a matter of days, but a 20-year old tree may never be truly replaced! Supplemental irrigation should only begin when soil moisture is low. If rain events are frequent and heavy during the growing season, little supplemental irrigation will be necessary. The most efficient method to water trees is with a soaker hose or drip irrigation Continued on Page 3 2

Watering Trees Continued from Page 2 allowing the water to slowly infiltrate the root zone. We recommend an application of 2-4 of organic mulch around the tree to conserve moisture and increase infiltration during watering. When watering, do not concentrate the water at the base of the tree. Most of the fine roots, which take up moisture, are located several feet from the trunk. Excessive watering at the base can even contribute to pest and disease issues. Planting a Tree Avoid planting your tree in the hottest summer months. For best results, plant when the tree is dormant. Be sure to remove any twine, tape or tags from your tree. When watering mature trees, focus on the area away from the base, underneath the crown of the tree to a few feet beyond the drip line. Watering infrequently, but deeply, encourages healthy root growth. The cycle and soak method prevents runoff and is typically the most water efficient method for the heavy clay soils common in North Texas. Watering New Trees Young or recently planted trees may require more frequent watering. When watering, be sure to thoroughly irrigate both the newly planted root ball AND the surrounding area. To estimate soil moisture around newly planted trees and avoid watering too much or too little, utilize a soil moisture meter. The top of the tree s root mass should be at or slightly above the existing grade (dotted line.) Mulch between 2 and 4 deep but be sure to leave a 1 to 2 clearance between the tree trunk and your mulch. Backfill with native soil from the new hole. Your hole should be 2-3 times the width of your root ball. Only stake your tree for stabilization in windy or high traffic areas. Secure with wide, flexible material. The root flare at the base of your tree should be visible once planted. Three in one moisture, light and ph balance meter Carefully remove containers, wrappings, wires and ties from root mass before planting. Unwrap any circling roots. Make sure your root mass is sitting on firm, undisturbed soil at the bottom of your hole. Should I Stake my New Tree Staking is a technique used to protect, anchor, and support recently transplanted trees until the roots grow enough to anchor the tree. Research shows: Most young trees do not require staking. Most young trees grow stronger trunk and roots without staking. Trunk movement encourages better trunk taper and stronger root system. When to Stake Trees: High wind conditions Very large tree size Fall-planted evergreens Very weak trunk High population pressure Don t stake unless you have to. Remove stakes and ties within 1 year. Use flexible ties with a broad smooth surface (canvas.) 3

Understanding Plant Lighting under Trees The amount and quality of light on your property can change over time, especially in landscapes with maturing trees and large shrubs, new buildings, or even new fences. While established turfgrass and other sun-loving plants might grow successfully in these areas for a while, many times we start to see them decline, becoming thinner and less dense as the shade begins to encroach. Overwatering and/or over-fertilizing are often the response in these lower light situations. These poor management practices can be even more detrimental to your landscape and the environment in the long run. Summer Spring & Fall Winter The sun s position in the sky at noon during in each season Advantages to Gardening under Shade Trees There are actually quite a few ways gardening under mature tress can enhance your landscape! Save Water! We see less water loss in shadier areas, both in the plants themselves with slower transpiration rates and in the soil moisture around them showing less evaporation. Added Interest The tree, shrub building, or fence should be considered an asset, serving as backdrops or structural focal points that can complement or even enhance your plantings. Moderate Temperatures Shade gardens are the perfect place to sit and relax or entertain guests, especially during the summer months in North Texas! Increase your plant pallet There is a whole new world of plant material that not only tolerates, but thrives, in the shade. These shade-loving plants vary tremendously in their forms, grow habits, foliage, and in the shape color of their blooms! Trees for North Texas Shade Trees Big Tooth Maple Caddo Maple Shantung Maple Pecan Arizona Cypress Easter Red Cedar Goldenrain Tree Southern Magnolia Eldarica Pine Chinese Pistache White Oak Red Oak Lacey Oak Bur Oak Chinquapin Oak Post Oak Live Oak Soapberry American Elm Cedar Elm Lacebark Elm Ornamental Trees Japanese Maple Tree Red Buckeye Redbud-Many Varieties Desert Willow Smoketree Hawthorne Texas Persimmon Loquat Possumhaw Holly Yaupon Holly Blue Point Juniper Hollywood Juniper Wichita Blue Juniper Crape Myrtle Goldenball Leadtree Deciduous Magnolia Wax Myrtle Japanese Black Pine Honey Mesquite Cherry Laurel Pomegranate Prairie Flameleaf Sumac Eve s Necklace Texas Mountain Laurel Buckeye Vitex Chitalpa 4

17360 Coit Rd., Dallas, TX 75252 wateruniversity.tamu.edu Developed in cooperation with the Water Efficiency Network of North Texas This publication cannot be reproduced wthout written consent from Texas A&M AgriLife Water University