IN THE GARDEN NOW HELPING GARDENERS PUT KNOWLEDGE TO WORK MAY / JUNE 2012 Here Come the Kudzu Bugs: IN THE PLANT CLINIC Kudzu bugs are showing up all over Onslow County. Kudzu bugs are new to our area, having only been reported in North Carolina for the first time in 2010. Kudzu bugs are small bugs about 1/6 to ¼ inch in length, Kudzu bugs are fairly square in shape and olive green with brown speckles. Lisa Rayburn Extension Agent, Horticulture Contact Us: NCCE-Onslow County 4024 Richlands Hwy. Jacksonville, NC 28540 (910) 455-5873 (910) 455-0977 Fax http://onslow.ces.ncsu. edu North Carolina State University and North Carolina A&T State University commit themselves to positive action to secure equal opportunity regardless of race, color, creed, national origin, religion, sex, age, veteran status or disability. In addition, the two Universities welcome all persons without regard to sexual orientation. North Carolina State University, North Carolina A&T State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and local governments cooperating. As the name implies, kudzu bugs feed on kudzu as well as a variety of legumes including soybeans and other bean species, wisteria, some vetches and leguminous trees. Kudzu bug feeding on legumes in fields can result in significant crop yields. Kudzu bugs can also be found congregating on nonlegume plants particularly fig trees. It is important to note that kudzu bugs are not known to damage non-legume plants so despite their presence, control is not necessary. Homeowners can spray them off with a forceful jet of water but it will not prevent the bugs from returning. While bifenthrin is used to control kudzu bugs in soybean fields, there are currently no recommendations available for chemical control in home gardens. Kudzu bugs may feed on peas and beans in the garden but are unlikely to cause significant reductions in yield to home gardens. Kudzu bugs may try to overwinter in structures like homes at the end of the season. Most common household insecticides will kill the bugs on direct contact but control of the bugs by treating the outside of the home is unlikely to be successful. Instead, focus on sealing gaps and openings to prevent bugs from entering the home. Bugs can be vacuumed up. Place the vacuum bag (or contents) into a trash bag and freeze the bag for several days to kill the bugs; kudzu bugs can also be killed by dropping them in soapy water. If you dump the live insects outdoors, they will likely end up back inside or surviving elsewhere on your property. Try not to crush the kudzu bugs or they will emit a stinkbug-type odor.
Solitary Bees: I ve had several calls about solitary bees this month. There are many common species of solitary bees that nest in the ground. Solitary bees vary in size, shape and color but all are good pollinators. Female bees excavate nesting burrows that reach six or more inches in depth. Small mounds of excavated soil may appear around the each nest opening. Solitary bees may nest in close proximity creating a small city of nests. However, since individual females each build their own nest, solitary bees do not defend the nesting area like honey bees or yellow jackets. A person might be stung if they tried to catch a bee or if one became trapped in clothing but this is generally not an issue. Mowing and other outdoor activities can continue in the area with little problem. Ground-nesting bees generally prefer nesting areas with morning sun exposure and welldrained soils with little organic matter. Bees avoid damp soil and thick turf so heavy watering or irrigation and establishment of dense turf should help discourage nesting. Alternatively, ground cover or heavy mulching can be used to cover bare patched where grass will not grow. Fire ants: Late May to early June is a good time to control fire ants for the summer. Baits are designed to fool ants into thinking they are food. Applied correctly, baits are the most effective, long lasting, and environmentally friendly method of fire ant control. Baits can be applied around individual ant mounds or broadcast over a large area. Broadcasting is recommended when there are more than five mounds visible per quarter acre or over 20 mounds per acre. Baits should be applied when fire ants are actively foraging for food. For best results apply baits in the morning after the dew has dried when rain is not expected for a few days since ants are not attracted to soggy food. Always use fresh baits because the soybean oil used in baits can go rancid over time. Read the label directions of any product you are thinking about using to find out what rate it should be applied at and how it should be spread. Baits take days or weeks to control ant populations but control can persist for 4-9 months depending on the specific active ingredients used. If more rapid control is required, a contact insecticide can be used in the form of a drench or granules. Drenches are mixed with water and poured onto a mound. They provide quick knock down of the mound but rarely kill all of the ants and new mounds usually pop up in the treated area within a few days. Drenches are best used only if a mound needs to be quickly neutralized. Most drench products contain synthetic insecticides like bifenthrin or permethrin. The Safer brand of products offers an organic drench with the active ingredient D-limonene, but this may be difficult to find locally. Granules are sprinkled around a mound or broadcast over the yard. Ants are killed when they come in contact with the pesticide. Granules usually do a better job of killing more of the ants than drenches but rarely get them all. Most granular products contain either bifenthrin, permethrin, or a similar synthetic insecticide. Ortho offers a granular form of spinosad, an organic insecticide, under their EcoSense line of products, if you can find it. TIPS AND TASKS Most warm season lawns can be fertilized mid-may until mid-july. Make sure you are applying the appropriate fertilizer at the right rate for your turf type. Warm season weeds will be ramping up their growth as temperatures increase. Bring a sample to the office for appropriate identification and control options. Keep lawns mown to the correct height for your turf type to encourage a dense stand and prevent weeds. Leave grass clippings on your lawn to return nutrients and moisture to the soil. Make multiple small plantings of vegetables and herbs two weeks apart to extend the harvest season. Stake tomato plants to prevent rot. Scout your vegetable garden regularly to catch pest and disease
problems early. Pick fruits and vegetables as they ripen to keep up production levels. Water according to plant needs. Vegetables and newly planted areas may need frequent watering while lawns and established plants may need little to none. Remember to water deeply rather than frequently to promote deeper, more droughtresistant rooting. Remove the spent flower heads on annual and perennial flowers to neaten up the plants and extend the bloom period. Pull weeds before they flower and set seed. Centipede Lawn Problems Charlotte Glen, Pender County Hop Clover, a common cool season weed An abundance of cool season lawn weeds this spring is most likely the result of last summer's drought, which weakened lawns and created bare areas where weeds could invade. In dense, healthy lawns weeds struggle to get established. If your lawn is weedy year after year, you should investigate why your lawn is not thick and healthy. In some yards centipede grass thrives on neglect, producing a dense, healthy, carpet of grass with little care. In others centipede lawns are plagued with problems. Some of these are caused by insects or diseases, while others are due to incorrect care. Figuring out which problem is the cause of your centipede lawn s decline relies on careful consideration of the symptoms and how the lawn has been treated. What Centipede Likes Centipede grass prefers to grow in well drained, acidic soil in full sun. The target ph for centipede grass is 5.5. When grown on soil with a ph over 6.5, centipede may appear yellow due to iron deficiency, especially in spring as the lawn greens up. Many soils in our area near the coast have ph levels much higher than 5.5. If you are trying to grow centipede and it is struggling, you should have your soil tested to determine the ph level. Soil testing is free. Bring samples to your local Extension office to be sent off for analysis. Mowing at the correct height is an important part of centipede care. To keep centipede lawns healthy, mow low, around 1 and no higher than 1.5. Centipede lawns that are mown high are more prone to cold damage than those that are mown lower. Centipede lawns require little fertilization, especially in heavy or clay soils. Even in sandy soils only one application of fertilizer is usually needed. To fertilize centipede lawns, apply 5-0-15 fertilizer at a rate of 10 pounds per 1000 square feet. The best time to fertilize centipede is late April or early May. Applying too much nitrogen can increase disease problems in centipede and cause thatch build up. Fertilizing too early increases the risk of cold damage caused by late season frosts. Centipede is sensitive to some herbicides, especially those that contain 2,4-D. Over applying 2,4-D will cause centipede lawns to weaken and decline. In addition, many herbicides sold as crabgrass preventers reduce centipede grass s ability to recover from injury. If your lawn has dead or declining areas, do not applying crabgrass preventers. Weed and feed products should also be avoided because they often contain herbicides that are damaging to centipede grass and the time to apply most herbicides is not the correct time to fertilize. Insects and Diseases Centipede has a couple of serious pest problems that are common in our area. Large patch is a fungal disease that causes circular patches of grass to turn brown and die. These patches may start out 2-3 across in spring but can rapidly expand to cover 10 or more within a few weeks. This disease subsides in summer and new grass often grows back into affected areas. Large patch is encouraged by over fertilization, fertilizing too early, over watering, poor drainage, and excessive thatch levels. Correcting these problems will reduce disease pressure, though fungicide applications are usually needed to control this disease. Lawn fungicides containing triadimefon or azoxystrobin work best for controlling large patch. These products can be applied in spring, though best results occur from fall applications, even if symptoms are not present. If
your lawn has large patch this spring, map out the affected areas and spot treat them this fall. Ground pearl is a type of insect that lives in the soil and severely damages most grasses. Areas infected with ground pearl turn yellow, then brown, and die. No grass will grow back into affected areas. The small round, tan colored ground pearls can be found in the soil at the edge of dying areas. Areas infected by ground pearl get larger slowly, growing about 1 in diameter each year. While ground pearl will feed on all types of warm season turf grasses, centipede is damaged most severely because of its low vigor. There is no way to treat ground pearl, though zoysia grass, tolerates its feeding better. In most cases where ground pearl are a problem it is not possible to grow centipede grass. Trees, shrubs and perennials are not bothered by ground pearl and can be planted in infested areas. For more lawn care advice, visit Cooperative Extension's TurfFiles website: http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/, where you can download the free lawn care app and receive the regular updates on your smart phone about what, how, and when to care for your yard. Find out what you need to do to keep your centipede lawn healthy year round - download the Centipede Lawn Maintenance Calendar: http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/maintenance_calenda rs.aspx#000019 Fertilizers, Compost and Plant Nutrition Gardeners frequently wonder what type of fertilizer is best for a particular plant. This is a complex question and determining the best fertilizer option takes several steps. First, it is important to know the current nutrient status and ph of the soil. With this information, gardeners can then choose the fertilizer that will provide the necessary plant nutrients and meet the gardener s needs. There are many varieties of synthetic fertilizers, natural fertilizers and composts from which to choose. The best way to determine the nutrient content of the soil is to submit a soil sample to the North Carolina Department of Agriculture (NCDA) for testing. Contact your local Cooperative Extension office for detailed soil sampling information. This free service will provide more accurate information than do-it-yourself soil sampling kits. The sample results will be emailed to you, and your local Extension agent can help you interpret the results. The soil sample results will also tell you the ph of your soil. ph is important because it determines the availability of plant nutrients in the soil. Plants require many nutrients for growth, but the three fertilizer nutrients that are used in the largest quantities are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). The three numbers on the front of a bag of fertilizer refer to the relative amounts of N, P and K respectively in the bag of fertilizer. For example, a bag of 10-5-15 would contain 10% nitrogen, 5% phosphorous, and 15% potassium by weight. A bag of 10-10-10 would contain 10% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus and 10% potassium. Each nutrient plays a different role in plant growth and behaves differently in the soil. Nitrogen promotes green, leafy growth and should be applied when plants are actively growing. Nitrogen moves relatively quickly out of the soil, so many plants benefit from several light applications of nitrogen throughout the season. Phosphorus is important for root and bud growth. Phosphorus does not move out of the soil readily, so high levels of phosphorus can build up in fertilized soils over time. Potassium promotes disease and drought tolerance and increases winter hardiness. Potassium is often applied to lawns in late summer to increase winter hardiness. Potassium will leach out of the soil slowly. Synthetic fertilizers come in a variety of ratios and formulations. Many people are familiar with 10-10- 10 and 8-8-8. These fertilizers are referred to as balanced not because they provide balanced nutrition to the plant, but simply because there are equal amounts of N, P and K available in these formulations. It is important to choose a fertilizer ratio that is similar to the one recommended on your soil test report. Synthetic fertilizers have several distinct advantages. They are relatively inexpensive compared to organic fertilizers and composts (if you are purchasing commercial composts). Synthetic fertilizers are concentrated so very little needs to be
applied to meet the nutrient needs of the plant. Synthetic fertilizers can be formulated for liquid application, as granules or as a slow release product. Liquid application makes nutrients available to the plant very quickly, this can be an advantage for an actively growing plant. However liquid formulations can also leach quickly out of sandy soils. Granular fertilizers are convenient for application over large areas such as a large garden or lawn. Slow release formulations are covered in a special coating, so they release their nutrients slowly over time usually three to four months. Slow release formulations are a good option for containerized plants. Natural fertilizers come from a variety of natural products; including animal manures, animal byproducts, natural deposits or plant products. Natural fertilizers include such products as bonemeal, blood meal, fish emulsion, greensand, phosphorus rock, seaweed extract, alfalfa meal, and wood ash. Natural fertilizers should not be confused with composts, which are used mainly to add organic matter to the soil. Natural fertilizers have several advantages over synthetic fertilizers. Natural fertilizers release nutrients slowly so they supply nutrients over a longer period of time and are less likely to burn plants than synthetic fertilizers. Natural fertilizers also contain micronutrients which may be missing in synthetic fertilizers. Despite their advantages, these fertilizers tend to be much less concentrated than synthetic fertilizers, so a much larger quantity is needed to provide a similar level of nutrition. Natural fertilizers also tend to be more expensive than synthetic fertilizers. Finally, natural fertilizers may be available in limited N-P-K ratios you may need to mix multiple natural fertilizers to meet the nutrient needs of your site. Compost is one of the best things you can add to build your soil. Compost provides organic matter, which improves the structure, and the water and nutrient holding capacity of your soil. Compost may be derived from a variety of materials, including plant material and aged animal manures. As important as organic matter is to building healthy soil, most compost provides very low amounts of plant nutrients, and the amount of nutrients in compost will vary from source to source. Most people should consider compost an important soil amendment, but not a fertilizer. However, applying significant amounts of compost (as in the building of a raised bed) can reduce the fertilizer levels needed. Do you actually know how much lime, fertilizer or pesticide you are putting out with your spreader? Many people don t. Find out just how much material you are putting out by calibrating your spreader. How to Calibrate a Rotary Spreader Jacob Searcy A rotary spreader is a piece of equipment used to apply lime, fertilizer, grass seeds, and pesticides. Because each of these materials should be applied at a specific rate, spreaders must be calibrated regularly. There are two common methods gardeners may use to calibrate their spreaders. For the Sweep and Weigh method, the operator pushes the spreader over a 10-ft-by-10-ft tarp, then collects and weighs the material from the tarp. The weight of collected material is multiplied by 10 to find the rate to apply over 1,000 square feet Weigh Before and After is another method. The operator measures the labeled rate per 1,000 square feet, then spreads the material over a 1,000-squarefoot course. Example: A spreader that has an effective swath of 8 feet will need to travel a distance of 125 feet to cover 1,000 square feet(1,000 / 8 = 125). After the course has been traveled, the remaining material is measured and subtracted from the beginning weight to get the rate applied. Note: Do not use this method repeatedly over the same area. Herbicide Injury to Vegetables Mary Helen Ferguson Some gardeners have recently experienced damage to their vegetable plants from residual herbicides in manure, straw, or hay. The herbicides of concern contain picloram, aminopyralid, or clopyralid as an active ingredient. These herbicides are used on pastures, hay, some other crops, and lawns to kill broadleaf weeds. They re useful for their intended
purpose but are unusually persistent in hay and manure. These herbicides can enter gardens when a gardener amends the soil with fresh or composted manure from an animal that has eaten grass or hay treated with one of these herbicides. Alternatively, someone may use treated hay or straw as mulch or may try to grow vegetables on land where one of the herbicides has been applied. Treated grass clippings from non-residential properties could cause problems as well. Symptoms of injury to vegetables and other broadleaf plants include curling of plant leaves and stems and death in highly sensitive crops such as beans and tomatoes. If you re using fresh or composted manure as a soil amendment, ask what was applied to the hay or pasture grass that the animals have eaten. Likewise, if you re a gardener using hay or straw as mulch, ask the supplier what herbicides were used on the crop. Do not use hay or manure from animals that have eaten hay that was treated with herbicides containing picloram, aminopyralid, and clopyralid. Trade names for these products include Confront, Curtail, ForeFront, Grazon, GrazonNext, Lontrel, Milestone, Millennium Ultra 2, Redeem, Surmount, and Stinger. More information can be found in the publication Herbicide Carryover in Hay, Manure, Compost, and Grass Clippings. This publication is available online at http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/fletcher/programs/ncorgan ic/special-pubs/herbicide_carryover.pdf or stop by the extension office to pick up a hardcopy. UPCOMING CLASSES Beekeeping Class The Onslow County Beekeepers Association will be offering an Introduction to Beekeeping Class in Swansboro in May. The two day class will run May 19 th and 26 th. The course is designed to give attendees the basic skills necessary to get started in beekeeping and to prepare them to take the NC State Beekeeper Association s written and practical exam to become a certified beekeeper (if desired, taking the exam is not required). Topics to be covered include: Basics of Management, Bee Biology, Bee Races, Seasonal Management, Bee Pests and Diseases. Cost for the class is $25 and includes a copy of the booklet, First Lessons in Beekeeping. For more information or to register for this class, contact the Onslow County Beekeepers Association at 910.330.5732. Library Classes Propagating Cuttings for Fun This class will cover the basics of rooting cuttings to create more plants. We will discuss successful methods for rooting popular plants for personal use. Jacksonville Public Library, May 19, 10 am Richlands Public Library, May 19, 1 pm Main Base Library, Camp Lejeune, June 20, 1 pm (call 910.451.3026 to register) Lawn Care and Maintenance This class will discuss basic lawn care and maintenance to keep your lawn healthy and vigorous. Main Base Library, Camp Lejeune, June 2, 1 pm (call 910.451.3026 to register) Master Gardener Plant Clinic The Master Gardener Plant Clinic is open from 9-12 and 1-4 five days a week. Stop by and ask your home lawn, garden or plant questions, or call 910.455.5873. Master Gardeners are also available at the Onslow County Farmer s Market each Saturday from 8:30 am until 1:30 pm to answer questions. UPCOMING EVENTS Onslow County Farmer s Market Events Onslow County Farmer s Market is open for the season. The Saturday market at 4024 Richlands Highway has the largest selection of vendors and special events. Don t forget to join us for these upcoming celebrations: Strawberry Day, May 12 The market will be featuring fresh, local strawberries, cooking demonstrations and recipes. Summer Festival, June 9 Come celebrate the bounty of summer and enjoy a selection of family activities including antique
tractors, hay rides, petting zoo, snake exhibit and much more! Sweet Corn Day, July 7 The market will feature fresh, local sweet corn, cooking demonstrations and recipes. Visit the Farmer s Market website at onslowncfarmersmarket.com for a full listing of special event days, market times and locations. RECIPE CORNER Potatoes are grown commercially in 48 states and mature potatoes are available year round but new potatoes are a seasonal treat. New potatoes are available in the spring and early summer and can be young potatoes of any variety but round reds are most common. New potatoes are small with thin skin, low starch content and a crisp, waxy texture. New potatoes are excellent in potato salad, for roasting or grilling. Try the recipe below with new red or Yukon Gold potatoes. Zesty New Potato Salad 2 lb. new potatoes, quartered 1/2 cup mayonnaise 2 green onions, sliced 4 tsp honey mustard 2 tsp honey 1/8 tsp black pepper Place potatoes in large saucepan. Add enough water to completely cover potatoes. Bring to boil on medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium. Cook 20 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Drain, rinse with cold water until cooled, drain. Mix remaining ingredients in large bowl, add potatoes, and mix lightly. Cover and refrigerate several hours or until chilled. Also, try tossing new potatoes with olive oil, garlic and coarse salt and roasting them in a 450 o oven until tender (35 to 40 minutes depending on size). Larger potatoes can be halved or quartered before roasting but smaller potatoes can be roasted whole. CONTACT US If you have questions about lawn, landscape or garden problems, contact your local Cooperative Extension office. In Onslow County call 455.5873, Mon Fri, 8 am and 5 pm, or visit us online anytime at http://onslow.ces.ncsu.edu. While you are there, you can post your questions to be answered by email using the Ask an Expert widget (in the upper left hand corner). SPOTLIGHT 4-H Summer Avenues of Interest 2012 The 4-H motto is: To Make the Best Better, so make the best better by enrolling now to learn something new and meet new people. The 4-H office along with those giving leadership to the activities hope you have an enjoyable summer and invite youth age 5 19 to take advantage of the many opportunities offered in the Avenues of Interest Summer Program. We invite you to join us for an exciting summer!!! Any youth in Onslow County may enroll in one or more workshops, you do not have to be a 4-H er to register, just come by the 4-H office at 4024 Richlands Highway, Jacksonville. Call us at 455-5873 or you can also check our web site to see what classes we offer and if they are full. (http://onslow.ces.ncsu.edu) All programs have a registration fee, which must be paid when you register. Registration will not be held at the workshop or activity. All monies collected are used for supplies and or instructor fees. Again, do not miss out on an exciting summer of 4-H activities.