Plant Propagation Anna Warner
Area: Agricultural Literacy / Horticulture Unit: Plant Propagation Situation Statement: Eighth grade students have been exposed to minimal agricultural lessons. Most students have not agricultural background. Unit Objective: Upon completion of this unit, students will be able to consciously use different techniques to propagate plants. Unit Analysis: 1. How do I propagate plants from seeds? (Discussion/illustrated lecture) 2. How can I propagate plants without seeds? (Problem Solving) 3. How do I perform asexual reproduction? 4. Plant Propagation Evaluation (Crossword Puzzel) 2
Lesson 1 Anna Warner Plant Propagation Title: How do I propagate plants from seeds? Audience: Eighth grade students Teacher Objectives: Upon completion for this lesson, the student will be able to: 1. Define Plant Propagation 2. List factors needed to propagate seeds 3. Propagate seeds Materials Needed: Motivation: 1. Chalk board or white board 2. Overhead projector 3. Seeds 4. Containers 5. Soil It is beginning to be the time when we start thinking about spring. What do you think about when you think about the spring? Everything begins to grow. Some things we have to plant and some plants come up on their own. Why is this? If you had a house with no plants, what would you do so that you had flowers for the spring and summer season? How would you get these flowers into the ground? Subject Matter Procedure Motivation What is Plant Propagation? Reproducing plants The most common method of reproducing plants is with seeds. 3
Lesson 1 Anna Warner Information on a seed packet Name Picture Description Best Uses Germination time Planting and Care Directions Distribute seed packets to each student. Have them identify the different information on the packet. Factors needed for seed germination water: soil should not be too wet or dry; adequate and continuous supply of water air: loose soil, not completely absorbed in water light: Important to know whether particular seed requires light or is inhibited by light temperature: warmth promotes germination and growth, know temp. range Planting and caring for seeds (see handout) Summary/Review: What is plant propagation? (reproduction of plants) What information is found on seed packets? (name, picture, description, germination time, best uses, planting Distribute handout, discuss the process, have students plant and label their own seeds. Ask the students questions to check for understanding. 4
Lesson 1 Anna Warner and care directions ) What are four factors required for seed germination? (water, air, light, temperature) 5
Planting and Caring for Seeds Preparing for planting: 1. Decide what seeds you want to plant and determine when they should be planted. 2. Read all of the information on the seed packet. 3. Fill container with sterilized planting soil and level ½ to ¾ inch below the top. Sowing the seeds: 4. Create properly spaced rows 5. Shake seeds to the bottom of packet 6. Tear open the top of the packet 7. Slightly tilt the packet and tap it gently to sow OR 8. Sow seeds by hand 9. Cover seeds with additional soil Note: cover so seeds are at depth specified on packet or twice the thickness of the seed, if seeds require light for germination do not cover 10. Label in pencil with seed name, variety, and date. Write your name on the back. 11. Place container in tub of water and allow soil to absorb the water from beneath. Caring for seeds: 13. Keep plants in warm area around 65-70º F 14. Make sure that plants are exposed to sunlight (a window sill is a good place to keep the plants) 15. Keep soil moist Transplanting: 16. After plants germinate they will develop a set of leaves from the seed, then they will develop their first set of true leaves. After the true leaves develop it is time to transplant. 17. Gently lift plants out of the soil and separate by pulling them apart at the roots. 18. Handle the plants by their true leaves 19. Plant in new container or in outside garden (plants should be planted deeper than when they are dug up from the original planting. 20. Gently press soil around the roots and water from the soil surface. Today I planted Special Directions:
Lesson 5 Anna Warner Plant Propagation Title: How do I propagate plants without seeds? Audience: Eighth grade students Teacher Objectives: Upon completion of this lesson, the student will be able to: 1. List the different methods propagation without seeds (asexual) 2. Plant cuttings Materials Needed: 1. Chalk board or white board 2. Containers 3. Soil 4. Cuttings 5. Handout: How to propagate plants without seeds 6. Mirror and inanimate object (preferably an object that would not be in the room) (for motivation) Motivation: Today we are going to perform a magic show. Hold the inanimate object in the front of the room for all of the students to see. Tell them that you can make the object multiply. Challenge students to multiply the object. Then show them how you can multiply the object by holding it in front of a mirror. Sometimes we need more of an object that seems to be impossible to multiply. Take a seedless watermelon for example. Today you will all be performing magic. You will be multiplying plants without sexual propagation. Subject Matter Procedure Motivation Most plants have the ability to reproduce themselves from a vegetative or living portion of the plant. 7
Lesson 5 Cuttings removing a piece from the parent plant and that piece then regrows the lost parts or tissues new plants can be grown from parts of plants because each living plant cell contains the ability to duplicate all plant parts and functions. STOCK PLANTS are the parent plants used in asexual propagation. Stock plants must be in excellent health and should possess characteristics desirable for production of new plants. duplicate the conditions needed for a plant to root from a cutting.: high humidity, indirect light, and soil temperatures of 70 to 80 degrees F ROOTING HORMONE helps to stimulate rooting, but is optional Stem Leaf Root Anna Warner Write notes on board. Have an example of a plant for most asexual propagation. Ex. Wondering Jew Layering roots develop on shoots that are still attached to the 8
Lesson 5 Anna Warner parent plant stem is not cut from the main plant until it has rooted Division plant cut apart into whole plant part sections (shoot and root) segments are replanted and grow into new plants identical to the parent Separation Removing small offset from parent bulbs and corms along natural line between segments Tubers tuberous plants can be dug up and the TUBERS separated each must have a segment of the crown that contains at least one eye or bud Rhizomes rhizomes grow and develop buds along their length can be dug and cut into sections that each contain at least one eye or bud Grafting Ex. Dumb Cane Ex. Hostas Ex. Tulip bulb, daffodil bulb Ex. Potato Ex. Strawberries Ex. Fruit trees 9
Lesson 5 Anna Warner joining different segments of two different plants of the same species A branch or bud (Scion) is joined to an UNDERSTOCK Tissue Culture individual or small groups of plant cells are manipulated so they each produce a new plant a tiny piece of bud, leaf or stem can produce incredible numbers of new plants in a small space in a short time conditions are very exacting Summary / Review Ask students questions to check for understanding. 10
How To Propagate Plants Without Seeds Rooting Hormone: (helps to stimulate rooting, but is optional) 1. Pour a small amount of the rooting hormone into a clean container to prevent contamination of all of your rooting hormone. 2. Dip the base of the stem, including the node area, into the rooting powder. The stem should be dry when dipped. NOTE: Commercial rooting products often include a fungicide. This is a good idea given the damp conditions required for rooting success. Tap off excess powder, since too much hormone can inhibit rooting. Stem Cuttings: 1. Select vigorous, new growth with no flower buds. 2. Stem sections should be free of diseases and insects. 3. Each cutting should be 2 to 4 inches long and have 2 or 3 leaves attached. 4. Make a cut 1/4 inch below a leaf node and pull off the leaves that are at the nodes that will be below the surface of the rooting medium. 5. Rooting hormone (optional) 6. Poke a hole in the medium before inserting the cutting to avoid loss of the rooting hormone. 7. Insert treated cutting in a moist rooting medium. A suitable rooting medium is half perlite and half sphagnum peat moss. Any disinfested container with drainage is acceptable for use. 8. Cover container and cutting with a plastic bag tent to maintain high humidity. Place unit in a warm area with indirect light. 9. Check the rooting medium every few days to make sure it remains moist. Rooting can take from a few days up to several months. 10. After a few weeks, test for rooting by gently tugging at the cutting. If there is resistance, rooting has started and the plastic cover may be removed. Source: Master Gardener: Ohio State University Extension: 11 http://www.hcs.ohio-state.edu/mg/manual/prop.htm
Leaf Cutting: 1. Choose a healthy leaf from a vigorously growing plant. 2. Cut it close to the stem with a sharp, disinfested razor or knife. 3. Trim off 1/4 of the leaf and dip into rooting hormone, if desired. 4. Insert the leaf into rooting medium so that 1/3 of the leaf is below the surface. Root Cutting: 1. Take cuttings from newer root growth. 2. Make cuttings 1 to 4 inches long from roots that are 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter. Be sure that the roots collected are from the chosen plant and not neighboring plants. NOTE: Cuttings should be taken during the dormant season when roots have large carbohydrate supplies. However, they also may be taken throughout the growing season. 3. Cut straight through the end of the root closest to the stem. 4. Cut the other end on a slant. This allows you to remember which end is the top (the straight cut) and which is the bottom (the diagonal cut). 5. Store cuttings from dormant roots for 3 weeks in moist rooting medium at 40 degrees F. 6. Remove from storage and plant upright in the growing medium. 7. Keep moist and warm, in a bright location until growth and weather permit acclimatizing to the outdoors. 8. If root cuttings are taken during active growth, skip the storage period and place cuttings directly in the rooting medium. NOTE: For smaller plants, take 1- to 2-inch sections. Place cuttings horizontally a half inch below the surface of the rooting medium. These cuttings should be handled indoors or in a hotbed. The fine roots of many perennials are used for propagation. NOTE: Root cuttings of some variegated plants will lose their variegation. Source: Master Gardener: Ohio State University Extension: 12 http://www.hcs.ohio-state.edu/mg/manual/prop.htm
Layering: 1. Bend a branch to the ground. 2. Wound or gridline section to be buried. 3. Bury a portion of it. The tip remains uncovered. NOTE: A light soil increases rooting success. Treatment with rooting hormone is helpful. 4. Hold the branch in place with a rock or peg. NOTE: Layering is done in early spring while plants are still dormant or in late summer on wood that has not become woody. Plants with flexible branches are particularly suited to this method. Division: 1. Carefully dig the plant, loosening the roots and lifting the plant from the soil. 2. Split apart the main clump with two spades or forks or chop with a shovel or hatchet if the clump is firmly massed. In some cases outside segments of the plant can be removed and replanted without disturbing the rest of the plant. NOTE: A good rule of thumb is to divide fall-flowering perennials in spring and spring- and summer-flowering perennials in fall. NOTE: Some shrubs that form clumps or crowns are suitable for division. Divide in early spring while dormant. Shrubs used for division should have several clumps that are two years old or older. Separation: 1. Remove bulbs or corms from ground. 2. Gently separate small offsets from bulb or corm. 3. Place offsets in rich, light soil. NOTE: These small bulbs take 2 or 3 years to mature into plants that flower. NOTE: Many lilies can be multiplied by removing scales from the mature bulb. Dust the scale with a fungicide and place, base end down, in a moist growing medium in a warm, protected area. Bulblets will form at the base of the scale. In 1 to 4 years these bulblets will grow and be ready to flower. Source: Master Gardener: Ohio State University Extension: 13 http://www.hcs.ohio-state.edu/mg/manual/prop.htm
Tubers: 1. Dig up tuber. 2. Cut tubers into pieces, each must have a segment of the crown that contains at least one eye or bud. 3. Plant tuber pieces. Rhizomes: 1. Dig rhizome. 2. Cut into sections that contain at least one bud. 3. Plant each section. Grafting: NOTE: Grafting is usually done in the spring. 1. Collect scion wood. These branches are 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter. Gather them several weeks before grafting is to occur. Collect wood that grew the preceding year. Select only wood with leaf buds, not flower buds. Scion wood should be gathered in winter when wood is dormant, but not frozen. 2. Use sharp clippers so that wood is not crushed. New growth over 1 foot in length is usually best. 3. Discard the wood at both ends of the branch and use the middle section. End growth is too succulent for grafting and wood closer to the base will graft more slowly. 4. Label the scion wood, wrap it in moist paper towels or sphagnum peat, enclose it in an airtight, plastic container and place it in the refrigerator. NOTE: Scion wood must be joined to the understock in spring when buds swell. It is critical that the two pieces are nearly the same size and that sap has begun to flow. 5. The day before actually grafting, remove scions from the refrigerator and snip off the bottom ends. Place the clipped scions in a pail of water overnight. NOTE: It is critical that the cambium layer on the scion precisely matches that of the understock. 6. Lance the scion and understock. Source: Master Gardener: Ohio State University Extension: 14 http://www.hcs.ohio-state.edu/mg/manual/prop.htm
7. Match the cambium layers and tape together. 8. Coat the tape with wax. 9. Protect grafted area of plant 10. Side sprouts should be removed the first summer. Sucker shoots that sprout from below the graft also should be removed. Source: Master Gardener: Ohio State University Extension: 15 http://www.hcs.ohio-state.edu/mg/manual/prop.htm
Plant Propagation 5. the reproduction of plants Across 4. Water, air, light, soil, and are factors needed for plant growth. 6. most common form of propagation 8. What runner plant did we plant? 10. What propagation technique is commonly used on fruit trees? 11. Seeds should be planted as deep as their diameter. 12. What common vegetable is an example of a tuber? 14. A can be taken from the stem, leaf, or root 15. When choosing a plant to propagate it is important for that plant to be. Down 1. Rooting helps stimulates rooting but is optional. 2. A plastic bag was used to increase for our cuttings. 3. are planted to grow Tulips and Daffodils. 7. What type of propagation divides the root and shoot of a plant. 9. contains the following information: name, picture, description, best uses, germination time, and directions. 13. What plant did we plant a cutting from?