Growing Guide. A product of Mountain Valley Seed Co. THE 100% NON-HYBRID, NON GMO LONG TERM STORAGE SEEDS

Growing Guide A product of Mountain Valley Seed Co. www.mvseeds.com THE 100% NON-HYBRID, NON GMO LONG TERM STORAGE SEEDS

Premium Quality Non Hybrid Seeds; These varieties have been selected for their adaptability for most regions of the U.S., and for their yield and nutritional value. These easy to grow, non-hybrid varieties have been especially selected for this application. Your unopened seeds should store for four years or more depending on storage temperature. These seeds have been carefully dried to their optimum moisture content to increase their storage life. The cooler the storage temperature, the longer the storage life of your seeds. Ideal for Emergency and Preparedness Storage. The best place to store your seed would be in a cool, dry, dark location such as a basement. For best results, store unopened can in a refrigerator or freezer. HARDY GROUP Plant as soon as the soil is dry enough to work, or when apple buds start to swell, or about March 15 to May 15 Broccoli, Cabbage, Kohlrabi, Peas, Radish, Onions, Spinach, Turnip SEMI-HARDY GROUP Plant a week or two after hardy group or when apple buds are in a tight cluster or about March 20 to July 1 Beet, Carrot, Lettuce, Parsley, Parsnip, Kale, Swiss Chard, Strawberry, Chives, Dill, Dandelion, Hyssop TENDER GROUP Plant on the average date of last spring frost, or when apple blossoms are open, or about May 5 to July 1 Bean (pole, bush, shelling), Sweet Corn, Cucumber, Summer Squash, Basil, Cilantro, Oregano, Sage, Thyme, Borage, Calendula, Echinacea, Fenugreek, Lemon Balm, Lovage, Yarrow VERY TENDER GROUP Plant about two weeks after Tender or when there are little green apples on the tree or about May 20 to June 10 Eggplant, Melons (Cantaloupe, Canary, Casaba, Crenshaw, Honeydew), Okra, Pumpkin, Peppers (Hot and Sweet), Winter Squash, Tomato (Cherry, Pear, Slicing), Tomatillo, Watermelon FALL PLANTINGS Many crop can be planted again for a fall crop plant June 1 to August 1 Beets, Cabbage, Lettuce, Onions, Peas, Spinach, Turnip

This Guide contains general planting information. Variety specific information and further instructions can be found at www.mvseeds.com.

BASIL Planting: For early season crops plant indoor about 6 weeks before the last frost date, or direct seed after the last frost date when soil has slightly warmed. Care: Pinch off the center shoot after plant is established to create bushier plants. Trim off all flowering stalks unless you have decided to harvest seed. Keep soil moist and harvest before temperatures get too cold. Harvesting: It is usually best to harvest the top leaves first and, when you have multiple plants, to pick some from each. The leaves can be used fresh, dried by hanging upside down or dried using a dehydrator. Seed Collection: Let the plant go to seed, cut the seed stock and hang in a brown paper bag upside down until fully dry. Gently roll the dry seed stocks in your hands to release the seeds. BEAN (POLE, BUSH, SHELLING) Planting: Plant when all danger of frost is gone in a sunny location. The soil should be enriched with organic material, as well as cultivated and loosened for best results. Press soil firmly over seeds and keep moist. Care: Water lightly to keep soil moist but do not over water. Control weeds with cultivation or mulch. Ensure pole beans have a pole or structure upon which they can climb. Harvesting: When picking the bean pods be careful not to damage the new blossoms that will form your future bean crop. Pick young for best texture and flavor, and to prevent over mature stringy bean pods. Do not pick when plants are wet. Collecting Seed: Select dry long healthy bean pods that rattle. Remove seeds when pods have dried completely. Store cool, dry area. BEET Planting: Plant very early in the spring in a sunny, well drained location as soon as the ground may be cultivated and enriched with

organic material. Press soil firmly over seeds. Sow seeds sparingly and repeat every three weeks as long as the weather is cool. A second crop can be planted late July for fall harvest. Care: Keep free of weeds and water regularly to keep soil moist. Fertilize with vegetable food every four weeks. Harvesting: When beets are about 2 in size pull the entire plant. Smaller plants can be harvested as part of the thinning process. Collecting Seed: Biennial plant that produces a seed stalk the second year. Selected roots need to be kept cool and moist. Protect first year root from winter freezing by burying in sand or leaving it in ground covered with heavy mulch. Seed heads form after summer growth. When seeds have matured and partially dried on the seed stalk, gather the seed before it falls to the ground. Complete the drying process at room temperature. Store in a cool, dry area. BROCCOLI Planting: Seeds can also be direct sown outdoors after the danger of a hard freeze has passed. Temperatures at night should be no cooler than 50 degrees and day time temperatures no higher than 85 degrees for successful outdoor seed germination and plant growth Care: When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin to stand 1 to 2 feet apart. Provide at least 1 inch of water per week; more in hot, arid regions. When plants are young, cultivate lightly to eliminate weeds. Mulch heavily (4 to 8 inches) to keep weeds down and conserve moisture. Side-dress plants with rich compost. Side-dress three times: after thinning, and when the first buds begin to develop. Harvesting: Start picking broccoli as soon as the main heads are big enough to use. Smaller side heads will develop after the main head has been harvested. Be sure to harvest the flower stalks before you see any sign of yellow: it means the tiny buds are beginning to open. Broccoli perishes quickly after it has been harvested, so it is best to eat it quickly or preserve it for future use by freezing or other methods. Two crops of broccoli can be grown in most areas, one in the spring and one in the fall giving growers plenty of broccoli to eat year round. Seed Collection: The green broccoli that we eat is a bunch of flower buds. Don't cut it off the plant when it looks like the broccoli one

would eat. Instead leave it for a while longer and the green round buds will open into yellow flowers. If these are pollinated, seeds will form. It is best to have several plants as the seed set will be much better when pollen from another plant reaches the flowers. Several seeds will be inside a pod over an inch long and a bit larger around than the seed. Harvest them when they are dried and tan colored. Break the pods open to get the seeds. BUNCHING ONIONS Planting: Plant early in the spring in a sunny location. Bunching onions are a good mild green onion that forms a small white bulb. Unlike a full bulb onion, bunching onion can be grown from seed in a single season. The bunching onion stalks have good flavor and can be eaten at any time. Care: Space more closely together than bulbing onions. Bunching onions do well with regular watering as they have a rather shallow root structure. Onions do well with extra nitrogen so fertilize during growing season. Harvesting: The main benefit of a bunching onion is that you don t have to wait for full development. You can harvest your bunching onions at any phase. Seed Collection: Onions produce seed on their second year of growth. Depending on your climate you will need to carefully harvest plants at the end of the season and keep the bulbs in a cool moist environment taking care to ensure the bulbs don t lose too much moisture but at the same time do not rot. If your winters are not too cold you can heavily mulch your onions in place to protect them over the winter months. Seed heads will form after the heat of summer. After stalks have flowered and formed seed heads, allow to slightly dried then cut the stalk, place in a brown paper bag and hang upside down until fully dried. CABBAGE Planting: Five or six weeks before last frost start seeds indoors using potting soil mixture. Harden plants for seven days before planting by setting them outdoors during the day. Cabbage plants like sunny locations. Do not plant in same place as previous year to minimize diseases. Firm soil over the seeds and keep moist.

Care: Keep free of weeds and water regularly. Protect from insects. Harvesting: Cut just above the lowest leaves and harvest when the head is firm. Continue to water and a second head(s) will form. The secondary heads are very sweet and delicious. Cut and harvest when this new head(s) is about 2-3 inches in size. Collecting Seed: Biennial plant that produces a seed stalk the second year. Selected roots need to be kept cool and moist. Protect first year roots from winter freezing by burying in sand or leaving it in ground covered with heavy mulch. Seed heads form after summer growth. When seeds have matured and partially dried on the seed stalk, gather the seed before it falls to the ground. Complete the drying process at room temperature. Store in a cool, dry area. CARROT Planting: Plant in early spring in a sunny location with light or loose soil that is enriched with organic material. Sow seeds sparingly and press soil firmly over seeds. In areas with mild winters, fall planting is recommended. Care: Keep free of weeds and regularly water lightly. Harvesting: When finger size (½ ) start pulling plants. Smaller plants can be harvested as part of the thinning process Collecting Seed: Biennial plant that produces a seed stalk the second year. Selected roots need to be kept cool and moist. Protect first year root from winter freezing by burying in sand or leaving it in ground covered with heavy mulch. Seed heads form after summer growth. When seeds have matured and partially dried on the seed stalk, gather the seed before it falls to the ground. CHIVES (GARLIC AND ONION) Planting: Chives can be planted from seed or started and then transplanted. When direct sowing plant in early spring. Chives can also be grown indoors or in pots. Do best in full sun with soil which drains well. Care: Water regularly for best results and apply fertilizer in May and July for maximum yield.

Harvesting: Chives are good fresh or dried and stored. They can be eaten at any phase of growth but are usually harvested around 60 days after planting. If plants are carefully cut leaving 1 to 2 inches of plant material above the ground then the plant will continue to grow, allowing several harvests from the same seed. Seed Collection: Allow chives to flower and go to seed. Chive seed pods will sometimes open and drop their seed before you have collected them. If you see this happening place a bag on top of seed pods and secure with a tie or rubber band. Allow stocks to dry slightly on plant and then cut stock and allow to fully dry before collecting seed. CILANTRO (ALSO CALLED CORIANDER) Planting: Direct sow after danger of frost has past. Even slow bolting varieties will have a tendency to bolt so plant in early spring or early fall for the best results. Cilantro prefers a sun and does well in a welldrained location as it does not do well in damp or humid conditions. Do not add too much fertilizer with Cilantro, nitrogen makes the plants less flavorful. Care: Once the plant is established water just as needed being careful to not overwater. Keep fertilization to a minimum and watch for signs of bolting. Harvesting: Cilantro can be harvested at any stage of growth. It is most typically harvested when the plant is 6 to 8 inches tall. The tasty leaves can be eaten fresh, placed in plastic bags and frozen or hung upside down to dry. Seed Collection: To collect seeds allow the plant to bolt which usually occurs in late summer or early fall. As the plant turns brown cut the seed stock, place a paper bag over the seed head and hang upside down until the plant fully dries. Most of the seeds will simply fall to the bottom of the bag. CORN Planting: Plant when all danger of frost is gone in a sunny location. For best results, loosen and enrich the soil with organic matter. Press soil firmly over seeds and keep moist. Plant in blocks of at least four rows side by side to insure best results from pollination avoid one long row style planting. Plant every three weeks for extended harvest

Care: Control weeds weekly by cultivating to form hills around corn. Enjoys occasional deep watering in hot temperature areas. Harvesting: Pick ears when firm and silk turns sandy brown. The kernels should be milky and tender when tested with thumbnail. Collecting Seed: Leave a few long healthy cobs on the stalk until the kernels show denting. Pick the cobs and dry the kernels completely before removing them from the cob. Store in a cool, dry area. CUCUMBER Planting: Plant in late spring in a sunny, well drained location when the ground is warm and all danger of frost is past. The soil should be cultivated and enriched with organic material. Seeds can be started indoors 4-6 weeks before setting outside for early crop. Care: Water lightly to keep soil moist but do not over water. Control weeds with cultivation or mulch. Use loose soil to cover vines periodically so new roots will form and improve overall plant growth. Harvesting: Pick fruit before color turns to yellow usually when size is 6-8 inches long. Regular picking promotes more fruiting Collecting Seed: Separate seeds from flesh when cucumbers are very yellow and very ripe. Dry at room temperature. Store cool, dry. DILL Planting: Dill grows best from seed by direct sowing and likes a sunny location with well-drained soil. Care: Once established dill can handle less water than many plants and if overwatered dill can develop powdery mildew. Dill is reasonably hardy and will tolerate many colder climates. Harvesting: Dill develops its best flavor when the plant starts to flower but can be harvested at any phase of growth. All parts of the plant, stem, leaves, flowers and even the seeds are edible. Flavor gets better as it gets warmer but temperatures in excess of 95 can reduce seed production. Seed Collection: Allow dill to flower and go to seed. The seeds will emerge from the bright yellow flowers after the flower has turned brown. As the flower begins to lose color place a bag on top of seed

pods and secure with a tie or rubber band. Allow stocks to dry slightly on plant and then cut stock and allow to fully dry before collecting seed. EGGPLANT Planting: Start seeds indoors 7-8 weeks before last spring frost in a sunny, warm location. Transplant to a sunny, well drained location in the late spring when the ground is warm and all danger of frost is past. Soil should be cultivated and enriched with organic material. Care: Water lightly to keep soil moist. Control weeds with cultivation or mulch. Harvesting: Eggplant is ready to harvest when fruits are half-grown and skin is still shiny. Mature fruits have dull skin and can get bitter Collecting Seed: Allow some fruits to fully mature and remove seeds. Allow seeds to thoroughly dry on a paper towel or cloth. GREENS (COLLARDS, KALE, MUSTARD GREENS, SWISS CHARD) Planting: Plant in full sun. Kale can be grown as a spring and fall crop. During the hottest part of summer plants can tolerate some shade. Care: Keep soil moist to sustain hardy growth and to keep leaves from getting too tough. Harvesting: If you prefer a milder taste you will want to harvest the younger leaves. Harvest leaves from the outside first. Should you decide to harvest the entire plant, cut a few inches above the soil and you will see a re-growth in a few weeks. Collecting Seed: Kale, Swiss Chard and Collards are biennial plants which means that they produce a seed stalk in the second year of growth. Mustard will flower the first year. Allow your plants to flower and set seed pods, harvest when pods they have matured and dried on the seed stalk, separate chaff with your fingers, then collect and dry seed.

KOHLRABI Planting: Plant seeds in early spring and again in late summer for fall crop. Keep soil moist and fertile to maintain the rapid growth the plants need to form tender bulbs free of strings and pith. Care: Keep free of weeds and regularly water lightly. Protect from insects. Plant in mid-late summer for a second crop. Harvesting: When bulb get about tennis ball or larger, pull up entire plant. Trim off the leaves and tap root. Collecting Seed: Biennial plant that produces a seed stalk the second year. Leave several plants to overwinter. Seed heads form after summer growth. LETTUCE (HEAD, LEAF, ROMAINE) Planting: Plant very early in the spring in a sunny location as soon as the ground may be cultivated and enriched with organic material. Press soil firmly over seeds. Sow seeds sparingly and repeat every two weeks as long as the weather is cool (Spring/Fall) Care: Keep free of weeds and regularly water lightly. Protect from insects. Start seeds indoors for earlier crop. Harvesting: Cut off 1-2 inches above the ground or pull the entire plant for leaf varieties or wait until head has formed for heading varieties. Collecting Seed: Allow several plants to produce flower seed stalks. A dandelion type flower head is formed after the plant blooms. The seed will separate from the chaff by rubbing flower head with your fingers. Store in a cool, dry area. MELONS (CANARY, CANTALOUPE, CASABA, CREN- SHAW, HONEYDEW) Planting: In warm climates you can direct sow melons, however seeds germinate more slowly in cooler soil. Remember that you will need to be very careful as to avoid transplant shock. Avoid disturbing the roots. Plant in rich well composted soil.

Care: Water regularly. Keep weeds down as melons are heavy feeders. For vines running on the ground, keep fruit from direct contact with soil to prevent rot and protect fruit from pests and rodents. Harvesting: Melons are ripe when the fruit is firm but with gentle thumb pressure you can easily separate the stem from the vine. Seed Collection: Pick fruit at the peak of ripeness to insure maximum likeliness of seed fertility. Cut the melon with a sharp knife and carefully scoop out the inner seed lining. Place the seedy pulp in a bowl and remove as much of the pulp as possible by hand. Discard the pulp and add warm water to the bowl. Remove floating seeds as floating indicates infertile seed. Rinse the remaining seeds of any sugar or pulp and place on a screen or towel to dry. Let seeds dry for about 3 days. When completely dry, place in an airtight bag and store in a cool, dark area. OKRA Planting: In warm climates you can direct sow the okra seeds. Okra is quick growing in hot weather. It loves the heat more than perhaps most other veg etables. Provide full sun and rich, well drained soil. Keep them watered, but make sure to provide good drainage, as they do not like to keep their feet wet for extended periods. Apply both fertilizer and mulch. Care: Squash, cucumbers, melons, eggplant, okra, tomatoes and other vegetable plants that are in your garden depend on bees to set fruit, so plant yourself some insurance with flowers that will attract them. Bee balm is one of their favorites. Harvesting: Watch for the flowers to fall off the okra plant. Okra generally matures 50 to 60 days after planting. The pods can be picked daily, starting a few days after the flowers fall off the okra plant. Determine the perfect size pod to pick. The pods should be 2 to 3 inches long. The pod will be soft, and the seeds will be half grown. Wear gloves when harvesting okra. The pods and leaves have prickly hairs that can cause an itchy reaction. Cut the okra pods off the stem with a sharp knife. Cut right above the cap. There should be very little stem attached to the pod. Continue to pick okra daily. If pods are not picked every day, the plants will stop producing pods. When harvested frequently, the plants will continue producing pods until the first frost. The normal harvest season lasts from May to mid-august.

Seed Collection: Allow okra pods to grow to an over-sized length and snap or pick them off the stalk, or simply allow the pods to wither and dry before har vesting. Slice the pods lengthwise from top to bottom and pry pods apart at the slit with thumb and forefinger. Remove okra seeds with the thumbnail. The seeds come out readily and are quite large. Collect seeds on a plate and place on a brown paper bag to dry out. Place seeds in a ziplock bag when completely dried and store in a cool, dry place. ONION Planting: Plant very early in the spring in a sunny location as soon as the ground may be cultivated and enriched with organic material. Press soil firmly over seeds. Care: Keep free of weeds and water regularly for moist soil. Harvesting: Allow plant tops to fall and die before harvesting. Smaller bulb sets can be stored to replant next year Collecting Seed: Biennial plant that produces a seed stalk the second year. Selected bulbs need to be kept cool and moist. Protect first year bulbs from winter freezing by burying in sand or leaving it in ground covered with heavy mulch. Seed heads form after summer growth. When seeds have matured and partially dried on the seed stalk, gather the seed before it falls to the ground. Complete the drying process at room temperature. Store in a cool, dry area. OREGANO Planting: Oregano can be direct sowed under a very thin layer of soil, no more than ¼ inch deep. Once established oregano cuttings can be taken and transplanted to produce additional plants. Care: Oregano prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Regular pruning will develop a fuller plant. Limit additional fertilizer which can reduce flavor. Harvesting: Oregano can be harvested at any phase of development. As the plant matures the stem can become increasingly woody, as this happens use only the leaves. Can be used fresh or dried but will frequently develop deeper flavor when dried.

Seed Collection: Allow to flower and go to seed. The seeds will emerge from the flowers after the flower dried. As the flower begins to lose color place a bag on top of seed pods and secure with a tie or rubber band. Allow stocks to dry slightly on plant and then cut stock and allow to fully dry before collecting seed. PARSLEY Planting: Plant in sunny location though some shade can be tolerated. Parsley likes well drained soil. Growing from seed requires a little patience as Parsley seed is slow to germinate. Some growers prefer to soak seeds in warm water for 24 hours prior to planting to help accelerate germination. Plant after danger of frost has passed. Can also be grown in containers. Care: Watering is important during the EXTENDED germination period because if seeds completely dry out then germination will be stopped. Fertilize once or twice during the season. Harvesting: For best production harvest by clipping off the stalks at the outside of the plant first by clipping near the soil. Unlike other herbs Parsley s flavor is best when fresh but it can be dried or frozen. Parsley overwintered will be a little more bitter in the second year but is still edible and tasty. Seed Collection: Parsley is a biennial which means that it will not produce a seed stalk in the first year. Mulch or cover your parsley to help protect it over the winter. In the second year allow to flower and go to seed. The seeds will emerge from the flowers after the flower dried. As the flower begins to lose color place a bag on top of seed pods and secure with a tie or rubber band. Allow stocks to dry slightly on plant and then cut stock and allow to fully dry before collecting seed. PARSNIP Planting: Plant parsnips as you would carrots but leave them just a bit more room in row between seeds. Parsnips are rather hardy and can be planted again the late summer for a fall harvest. In more mild climates they can even be lightly mulched and hold through most of the winter. As a matter of fact cool weather makes the Parsnip much sweeter and is the preferred time to harvest. Care: Keep weed free and soil moist. Do not use a high in nitrogen

fertilizer for root crops. Harvesting: Parsnips can be harvested at just about any size but will typically grow larger than a carrot. As mentioned above, cool weather improves flavor so it is best to plant and plan harvest for fall. Parsnips are amazing in winter soups! Seed Collection: Parsnips are a biennial crop so the seed stalk will not form until the second year. If needed protect over winter and allow the plant to go to seed in the second year. When seeds have dried on the stalk gather them before they fall to the ground. If necessary, place a bag around seed heads before they fully dry. PEA (SHELLING AND EDIBLE PODDED) Planting: This hardy crop tolerates cold and light frost well. Plant very early in the spring in a sunny location as soon as the ground may be cultivated and enriched with organic material. Press soil firmly over the seeds; best when planted in blocks or rows grouped together. For an extended harvest period, plant at two week intervals until mid-spring and again in late summer for a fall crop. Care: Water by soaking will reduce danger of disease. Support for Vines will increase your harvest yield. Harvesting: Pick when still bright green and seeds have enlarged in the pod. Hold vines to avoid tearing while picking. Collecting Seed: Select long dry healthy pods and remove seeds when pods have dried completely. Store in a cool, dry area. PEPPERS (HOT AND SWEET) Planting: Start seeds indoors 7-8 weeks before last spring frost in a sunny, warm location. Cultivated and enriched with organic material. Transplant to a sunny, well drained location in the late spring when the ground is warm and all danger of frost is past. Care: Water lightly to keep soil moist. Control weeds with cultivation or mulch. Harvesting: Most peppers will start green and turn red over time. Red peppers are usually sweeter than green.

Collecting Seed: Select a red, very mature pepper and remove seeds. Allow seeds to thoroughly dry on a paper towel or cloth. Store in a cool dry place. PUMPKIN Planting: Pumpkins require a long growing season -- from 75 to 100 frost-free days. Plan to sow seeds directly in the garden after all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed. Plant six seeds 1 inch deep in a circle about 2 feet across. Space these circles 2 to 3 feet apart in rows 6 to 8 feet apart. Cover the seeds with soil. In the far north start seeds indoors 3 to 4 weeks before the last frost. Set out two to three transplants per circle after all danger of frost has passed and the plants have about six leaves. Care: When several true leaves have appeared, thin each direct-seeded circle to the healthiest two or three plants. Mulch to keep weeds down; do not over cultivate or the shallow roots may be damaged. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Pinch off the fuzzy ends of each vine after a few pumpkins have formed. Contact your local County Extension office for controls of common pumpkin pests such as cucumber beetles and squash bugs. Harvesting: The first sign of a ripening pumpkin is a deep skin color. To make sure it s truly ready to pick, thump the pumpkin with your fingers -- a ripe pumpkin will sound hollow. A final test is to press your fingernail into the skin. If it resists puncture, it is ripe. Use a sharp knife or pruners to cut the fruit from the vine. Leave a long stem on the pumpkin to serve as a handle Seed Collection: Cut off the top of the pumpkin. Using a spoon or your hands, remove the seeds and membranes attached. Separate the seeds from the membranes and wash the seeds thoroughly. Lay out the seeds on a towel or newspaper and allow to them to dry completely. (Storing seeds while they still contain moisture will result in mold forming, killing the seeds.) Drying should take a day or two. Then place seeds in an airtight container and store in a cool, dry area. RADISH Planting: Planting may begin very early in the spring in a sunny location as soon as the ground may be cultivated and enriched with

organic material. For an extended harvest period, plant at two week intervals avoiding hot summer temperatures. Press soil firmly over seeds. Care: Keep free of weeds and water regularly for moist soil. Harvesting: Test pick radishes for size to insure harvest when young and tender. Collecting Seed: Older plants should blossom and grow into stalks to produced seed. Radish plants produce high yields of seed. The seed stalk produces brown pods which contain the dark brown seeds. When seeds have matured and dried, separate chaff with your fingers, then collect and dry seed. Store in a cool, dry area. SAGE Planting: Sow seeds directly and keep soil moist until the plant becomes established then only water only as needed. Sage does best in a sunny location and makes a good container plant. Care: Sage can survive winters in many climates, if you are is a colder region you may need to protect plant through winter. Once plants are established make sure there is enough space for air to circulate around the plant. Sage leaves can develop mildew so well drained soil is important and some growers prefer to use pebbles instead of mulch to keep leaves dry. Harvesting: Sage will get woodier each season and it usually suggested replacing after the 3rd year. Harvest and prune sage frequently to prevent flowering. Sage is typically used dried. Cut and hang sage upside down to dry and then store in an airtight container. Seed Collection: Allow sage to go to flower and develop seed. After seed has developed and begins to dry, cut stalk and hang upside down in a paper sack until fully dry. SPINACH Planting: Plant very early in the spring in a sunny location as soon as the ground may be cultivated and enriched with organic material. Press soil firmly over seeds. Sow seeds sparingly and repeat every two weeks as long as the weather is cool (Spring/Fall)

Care: Keep free of weeds and regularly water lightly. Protect from insects. Plant in mid-late summer and fall for a second crop. Harvesting: Cut leaves (plant top) off about 1-2 above the base when plant has grown. Plant will regrow leaves for repeat harvests Collecting Seed: Allow several plants to produce flower seed stalks. Cut the mature spinach plants and dry them so that the seed will come off by rubbing them in the palm of your hand. Separate seed from chaff and store in a cool, dry area. SUMMER SQUASH Planting: Plant in late spring in a sunny, well drained location when the ground is warm and all danger of frost is past. Soil should be cultivated and enriched with organic material. Press soil firmly over seeds. Start seeds indoors 3-4 weeks before setting outside for early crop. Care: Water lightly to keep soil moist but do not over water. Control weeds with cultivation or mulch. Do not be concerned if occasionally the first blossoms do not set fruit, most squash are very prolific plants. Harvesting: Continual picking will insure best flavor and extended growing season. Collecting Seed: Separate seeds from flesh when fruit is very ripe & mature. Dry at room temperature. Store cool and dry. WINTER SQUASH Planting: Plant in late spring in a sunny, well drained location when the ground is warm and all danger of frost is past. Soil should be cultivated and enriched with organic material. Press soil firmly over seeds. Start seeds indoors 3-4 weeks before setting outside for early crop. Care: Water lightly to keep soil moist but do not over water. Control weeds with cultivation or mulch. Do not be concerned if occasionally the first blossoms do not set fruit.

Harvesting: Pick in the fall before the first frost and store in a cool, frost free area. Collecting Seed: Save seeds from the winter squash and dry at room temperature. Store in a cool, dry area. STRAWBERRY Planting: Plant strawberries is a sunny location (8 hrs.+ of sun a day) with light well drained soil in spring after danger of frost has passed. Do not plant in an area that has grown okra, tomatoes, eggplant, potatoes or peppers as these may have introduced pathogens harmful to strawberries. Strawberries can also be planted in containers. Care: Strawberries patches should be moved and replanted every 4 to 5 years. In cold climates do what you can to help protect plants over the winter, watch blossoms in the early spring, if they develop before danger of frost has passed protect plants with blankets to prevent damage. Strawberries do well with some fertilization but may only need two applications one in spring and one in late summer. Due to the shallow root structure strawberries require regular watering. Harvesting: Harvest your strawberries frequently, over-ripe fruit can lead to disease and attract unwanted pests. It is best to harvest berries in the early morning. Seed Collection: Strawberry seeds, as you have probably already noticed, cover the outside surface of the fruit. To collect the seeds allow the fruit to FULLY ripen and gently scrape the seeds from the surface using a butter knife. Place the seeds on a paper towel to dry. THYME Planting: Thyme is best started indoors and then transplanted in the spring. Plant in a sunny well drained area. Too much water can lead to root rot with thyme. Thyme makes a great as a border and is even used in walkways. Thyme also grows well in containers. Care: Thyme is an evergreen in milder climates and will overwinter well if protected. Thyme does best in a sunny location with welldrained soil. Thyme does not require much supplemental fertilizer.

After the first or second year cut back your Thyme plant to half its prior year size each spring. After 4 years the plant may become woody and may need to be replaced. Harvesting: Trim off thyme but be sure to leave some leafs on each stem. Seed Collection: Thyme is best propagated by taking cuttings but seeds can be collected by allowing the plant to go to flower. The seeds are very small and easy to lose so once flowers emerge it is best to place a small bag over the flower and allow the flower to dry covered. Cut the flower with the bag still attached and gently shake to release the seeds. TOMATO AND TOMATILLO Planting: Start seeds indoors 5-8 weeks before last spring frost in a sunny, warm location in pots or flats. Cultivate and enrich the soil with organic material. Transplant to a sunny, well drained location in the late spring when the ground is warm and all danger of frost is past. The transplanted plants should be about 5-12 inches tall. Tomatoes can be sown directly into the garden when the soil and weather is warm. Double hill planting (6 inches apart) and staking tomatoes upright or use a wire cage to increase production. Care: Water lightly to keep soil moist. Control weeds with cultivation or mulch. Harvesting: Pick when fruit turn red. In late fall before any frost, green tomatoes can be picked and ripened in a warm area. Collecting Seed: Select a red, very mature tomato and remove seeds. Allow seeds to thoroughly dry on a paper towel or cloth. WATERMELON Planting: DIRECT SOW OUTDOORS: When soil temperature reaches at least 70º F (21º C), and after any danger of frost is past. Sow 2-3 Melon seeds every 16, in a row, and cover ½ to ¾ deep in late spring, after any danger of frost. Soil temperature should be 80-90º F (27-32º C). Care: Cooler temperatures can cause the melon seeds to rot. To get fruits of the proper size, water evenly but not too much, as too much

water when fruits are enlarging can diminish flavor. If possible, avoid overhead watering. Harvesting: Harvest when the tendril nearest to the fruit will turn from green to brown. The underside of the melon, where it sits on the ground is yellow. When you rap it lightly you will hear a low pitched thunk or thump instead of a high pitched ping. Seed Collection: Take the fruit when it is just past the point of where you d want to eat it and clean the seeds out of the fruit. Wash them in plain clean water. Drain the seeds thoroughly in a sieve or colander. Dry the seeds in a single layer on newspaper, paper towel, or other drying media (an herb dehydrator works well too). Make sure the temperature does not exceed 110 degrees F. After drying is done, store in an airtight, cool, dark container for up to 12 months.

TIPS FOR MORE PRODUCTIVE GARDENING: FERTILIZER is important for plants to increase yield. Use a fertilizer mixture of 16-16-8 or 16-20-0. With a hoe, make a 3 deep trench 4 inches away from the planted seed and apply 1 cup of fertilizer per 10 foot row. After 4 to 5 weeks, apply 1/3 cup of 34-0-0 per 10 foot row. Tomatoes may not need the second application of nitrogen if your soil is rich. Excessive nitrogen will cause plants to produce too many leaves and not enough ripe fruit. USE SPACE WISELY as you layout your garden design. Precision planting to give each plant its space to develop will permit wide row or bed planting. A single row is not the way to get high yields. Arrange the plants in 3-5 feet wide areas; where there is no traffic to pack the soil and inhibit root growth. Train sprawling plants up fences. Use netting for cucumbers, beans, and tall peas to climb. Stake tomatoes upright or use a wire cage. Grow radishes or lettuce while widely spaced plants such as squash or tomatoes are developing. interplant pole beans with corn when corn is about 12-15 inches high and they will have ready-made supports. GARDEN LOCATION is important. A sunny well-drained location is essential. Rich light loam with good texture is the best. Plant your tall and trellised plants on the north side so they will not shade the shorter plants. Food crops may be planted in parking strips, corners of lots, along fences, and surrounding patios. As little as 100 square feet (10 x 10 or 20 x 5 ) can be used to grow a lot of good eating. SOIL MODIFICATION should be made by mixing 2 to 3 inches of organic matter to a depth of 6 inches to benefit most soils. This will help loosen heavy clay soils, add nutrients, and improve the water holding capacity of sandy soils. Use abundant, composted, inexpensive materials such as leaves, sawdust, wood shavings, or old hay. Some materials might contain weed

seed. To avoid nitrogen deficiency and pale plants, add 1 pound (1 pint) of ammonium sulfate for each 1 inch of material per 100 square feet. If enough composted material or manure is available, reduce the ammonium sulfate rate by half. Peat Moss, perlite, or vermiculite can provide the loosening effects but are more expensive and have no nutritional content. To maintain this improved tilth and structure, add organic material each year. Beds of closely spaced plants quickly shade the soil reduce weed germination. Organic mulches such as leaves drastically reduce the need for weeding. They also cool soil, so wait until later to mulch warm season crops. Shallow, regular cultivation destroys small weeds before they compete with your vegetables for moisture, nutrients, and light. One of the secrets to gardening is to take care of the weed problem before it becomes a large problem. Plant only a few feet of a row at one time if planting lettuce, peas, radishes, and other crops which rapidly become over - mature at harvest time. Successive planting will also extend the harvest time. Plant sweet corn in a block of three to four rows wide instead on long single rows. You will get better filled ears of corn because of better pollination. The Native Americans planted corn in hills of 3-5 seeds for this very reason and fertilized adequately to assist such close planting. For better tomato yields use double hill planting (about 12 between plants). Control insects when they first appear. Clear plastic around a frame, hot caps, or Wall O Water may protect newly set plants from late spring frosts.