Maintaining Bermudagrass L a w ns

E-242 8/06 Maintaining Bermudagrass L a w ns David R. Chalmers, Associate Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist James A. McAfee, Associate Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist Roger Havlak, Extension Program Specialist Turfgrass and Water Management The Texas A&M University System

Your Bermudagrass lawn can be healthy and attractive if you give it proper care. Bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon [L.]) is a popular turfgrass for lawns, golf courses, athletic fields and general utility areas. Found in Australia, Africa, India, South America and the southern United States, it grows well in nearly all soil types and resists drought. Bermudagrass ranges from very fine to coarse leaf texture, and it has a low, dense growth habit. It spreads both above ground (stolons) and below ground (rhizomes), which makes it very aggressive and able to wear well and compete successfully with most weed species. The biggest negatives to bermudagrass are that it tends to creep into flower beds, and it does not tolerate shade well. Do not select bermudagrass for lawns that are shady. Coarse-textured varieties such as Common bermudagrass can be established from seed, sprigs, plugs or sod. They require less management than some other bermudagrass varieties, but normally produce a lower quality lawn. Hybrid varieties such as Tifway 419 have a finer texture and produce very high quality lawns. However, they require more maintenance than coarse-textured varieties. The hybrid varieties do not produce viable seed and must be grown from sprigs, plugs or sod. Dwarf varieties such as Champion or Tifdwarf are finely textured grasses for use on golf course greens that require intensive management. They are not recommended for home lawns. Follow these guidelines for mowing, watering and fertilizing your bermudagrass lawn, as well as for controlling weeds, insects and thatch, and eliminating compacted soil. Because many factors can affect turf growth, these are general recommendations. MARCH through May Mowing Begin routine mowing as soon as the grass begins to turn green in the spring. Set the mowing height at 1 to 2 inches for Common bermudagrass and 1 /2 to 1 1 /2 inches for hybrid varieties. Remove no more than one-third of the leaf area with any one mowing. The lower the mowing height, the more frequently you will need to mow. The grass will be much better quality if you mow frequently at a lower height. It is best not to bag grass clippings. They decompose quickly and return many nutrients to the soil. If you do bag the clippings, consider composting them to use in the landscape. Fertilizing Begin fertilizing after the grass turns green and there is little chance of a late frost. Have the soil tested to determine what nutrients your lawn needs. For information on soil testing procedures, contact your county Extension agent. If you do not have the soil tested, use a complete fertilizer with a 3-1-2 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (Examples: 15-5-10, 21-7-14, etc. Every bag of fertilizer has the nutritional analysis printed on the bag). Apply 1 pound of soluble nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn every 4 to 6 weeks, or 1 1 /2 pounds of slow-release nitrogen fertilizer every 8 to 10 weeks. To determine the amount of fertilizer to apply to equal 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, divide 100 by the first number in the fertilizer analysis. (To determine the amount needed to apply 1.5 pounds per 1,000 square feet, substitute 150 for 100.) For example, if you are using a 15-5-10 fertilizer, then 6.6 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet will be needed. 100 15 = 6.6 Then determine the size of the area to be fertilized. If your lawn is 5,000 square feet, it will need 33 pounds of 15-5-10 fertilizer. (5,000 1,000) x 6.6 = 33 pounds of fertilizer Watering To keep your lawn healthy, water it only when the grass needs it. When you do water, wet the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Don t water again until the grass shows symptoms of drought stress a dull bluish color, rolled or folded leaves, and persistent footprints. This usually occurs in 5 to 10 days, depending on the weather. Follow these steps to determine how long to water in order to apply the right amount. 1. Set out five or six open-top cans randomly around the lawn (tuna or cat food cans work best). 2. Turn on the sprinklers or irrigation system for 30 minutes. 3. Using a ruler, measure the depth of water in each individual can, and record the depths. 4. Calculate the average depth of water from all of the cans. Example: You have placed five cans in your yard. The depths of water in the cans were 0.5 inch, 0.4 inch, 0.6 inch, 0.4 inch and 0.6 inch. Add the depths together and divide by the number of cans you used. 0.5 + 0.4 + 0.6 + 0.4 + 0.6 = 2.5 inches 2.5 inches 5 cans = 0.5 inch of water in 30 minutes 5. Use a garden spade or a soil probe to find out how deeply the soil was wet during the 30-minute period. The probe will push through wet soil easily, but it will be more difficult to push through dry soil. Bermudagrass grows well in nearly all soil types.

6. When you know how much water was applied in 30 minutes and how deeply that volume of water wet the soil, determine how long you must water to wet the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Example: If the sprinklers sprayed 0.5 inch of water in 30 minutes and wet the soil to a depth of 3 inches, you would need to apply 1 inch of water to wet the soil to a depth of 6 inches. To do so you must water for 1 hour. Run-off from watering a lawn can waste a significant amount of water, which is costly and a poor use of a limited natural resource. The factors determining how quickly run-off occurs are the type of soil and the application rate of the sprinkler system. Do not apply water faster than the soil can absorb it. To prevent run-off: 1. Check the lawn while watering. If water begins running into the streets or gutters, note how long it took before run-off occurred. This is the maximum amount of time you should water at one time. 2. Stop watering and allow the soil surface to dry (30 minutes to 1 hour). 3. Begin watering again and continue for the amount of time you ve determined. With an automatic irrigation system, change the timer to the new, shorter time. 4. Continue this cycle until the appropriate amount of water has been applied to wet the soil to a depth of 6 inches. New-style irrigation controllers allow you to water several times a day, so that you can program them to prevent run-off. Controlling weeds The best form of weed control is a healthy, dense, actively growing lawn. To control crabgrass and other grassy weeds, apply preemergent herbicides (which control weeds before they sprout from the ground) in the spring when the soil temperature reaches 65 ºF (your county Extension agent can give you an estimate of this date in your area), or when the redbud and dogwood trees begin to bloom. Apply postemergent herbicides (which control weeds that have already sprouted) when weeds are present and the grass is healthy and actively growing. Control broadleaf weeds with herbicides that contain 2,4-D, MCPP or dicamba. Grassy weeds can be controlled by applying MSMA at 7- to 10-day intervals. Weed control is most effective if you apply the herbicide when the weeds are still very small. Read the label carefully before applying any herbicide to ensure that it is the right product for the weeds you have and that it does not damage the turf. Follow all the instructions on the label. It explains how and when to use the product and how much to apply. Controlling insects Armyworms, bermudagrass mites and white grubs can seriously injure bermudagrass lawns (see L-1131, White Grubs in Texas Turfgrass, available from the Texas Agricultural Extension Service). Check for these pests routinely and treat as necessary. If you suspect that nematodes are in your lawn, send a soil sample to the Plant Disease Diagnostic Laboratory for testing. Contact your county Extension agent for more information. Begin mowing as soon as the bermudagrass begins to turn green in the spring. Controlling thatch If the thatch layer (layer of undecomposed plant matter) is more than 1 /2 inch thick, mow the lawn with a vertical mower in May when the grass is healthy and actively growing. Be sure to remove the organic matter that the vertical mower brings up from the lawn surface. To prevent thatch, avoid excessive fertilizing and watering. For more information on thatch, see the Extension publication L-5226, Thatch Management for Home Lawns. Eliminating compacted soil In areas of heavy traffic, aerate the soil several times a year to help loosen compacted earth. Use a core-aerating machine when the grass is actively growing. If you have an underground irrigation system, flag the sprinkler heads first to avoid damaging them.

JUNE through August Mowing Follow the same recommendations as for March through May. Fertilizing Continue the fertilizer program begun in the spring, applying 1 to 1 1 /2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet every 4 to 10 weeks. Without soil test information, it is recommended that you use a fertilizer that either contains nitrogen only (21-0-0, ammonium sulfate) or is low in phosphorus (Examples: 21-3-6 or 15-0-15) to reduce the chance of excessive phosphorus build-up in the soil. Such build-ups can lead to deficiencies in iron and zinc. Watering Follow the same recommendations listed for March through May. Controlling weeds Continue applying postemergent herbicides as needed. At temperatures higher than 95 ºF, products such as MSMA and 2,4-D can injure bermudagrass. Apply them in the early morning or late evening. Fertilizing Do not fertilize bermudagrass unless the lawn has been overseeded. Overseeded lawns should be fertilized once in December and again in February with 1 /2 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, using a nitrogen-only fertilizer such as 21-0-0. To calculate the amount of product needed per 1,000 square feet, substitute 50 for 100 in the spring formula. Watering You may need to water dormant bermudagrass periodically if the weather is warm, dry and windy. Continue the spring and summer watering schedule if the lawn has been overseeded. Controlling weeds Apply postemergent herbicides as needed to control winter annual broadleaf weeds. Controlling insects Bermudagrass lawns should experience no detrimental insect activity in the winter. Controlling insects Follow the same recommendations as for March through May. The most effective time to treat for white grubs is in August when they are immature and close to the soil surface. Eliminating compacted soils Follow the same recommendations as for March through May. SEPTEMBER through February Mowing Continue the recommended mowing practices until the grass goes dormant and does not require mowing. If the lawn is overseeded (planted with cool-season grass to maintain its green color in the winter), it will need mowing throughout the winter. The best form of weed control is a healthy, dense, actively growing lawn. For more information, see the Web site at http://aggieturf.tamu.edu.

B-6125 6/06 Lawn WATER MANAGEMENT

lawn water management Homeowners know how important water is to a healthy lawn. Water is a limited resource in Texas, and it will become more limited as the population grows. Water rationing programs and rising water prices are already occurring in some areas of the state. Homeowners can conserve a significant amount of water with no loss in grass quality by learning to water their lawns properly. Most homeowners drastically over-water their lawns. Over-watering can harm lawn quality more than under-watering. To * Associate Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist, The Texas A&M University System James McAfee* establish an irrigation plan for your lawn, consider soil type, grass variety, management practices, and environmental conditions. Soil Type Soil type affects the amount of water a lawn needs. Of the three soil types (clay, loam, and sand), clay soil retains the most water and thus needs watering less often. However, because water seeps into clay soil more slowly, it must be applied at lower rates over a longer period of time. Sandy soil retains less water than clay soil, but less water is needed to properly wet sandy soil. Therefore, watering sandy soil takes less time than watering clay soil but must be done more fre-

quently. Loam soil lies between clay and sandy soil in its ability to hold water. Loam retains a moderate amount of water following irrigation and requires a moderate amount of water. Water moves very slowly into some soil, especially fine-textured clay and loam. If a sprinkler head applies water faster than water can seep into the soil, significant water can be lost as run-off. To avoid this problem, use sprinklers with low application rates and/or irrigate to a point just before run-off. Then stop watering. Let the surface dry and then begin watering again. Repeat this process until the soil is wet to the desired depth. Water can be lost when it leaches or filters through the soil, especially in coarse-textured sand and loam soils. Both water and nutrients may seep below the root zone where they are unavailable to plants. Consequently, watering deeper than the root zone should be avoided. Grass Varieties Using the appropriate grass can make water management easier and less expensive. Grass species vary significantly in their water needs and drought resistance (Table 1). Before establishing a Table 1. Drought tolerance of the common southern turfgrass species. Excellent Good Fair Poor Buffalograss Bermudagrass St. Augustinegrass Zoysia matrella* Zoysia japonica* Centipedegrass Kentucky bluegrass Seashore paspalum Ryegrass Tall fescue *Can vary depending on the variety.

new lawn, determine which grass species work best for your location. See Figure 1 for information about your specific location or contact your county Extension agent for more information. Management Practices The way you care for your lawn affects the amount of water it will need. You can conserve water by properly fertilizing, mowing, controlling thatch, reducing soil compaction, and considering the salt content of water in the region. Fertilization A good fertilization program provides essential nutrients in the amounts needed by the grass. Proper fertilization promotes healthy plant shoot and root development. The deeper a plant s root system, the better able it is to use water held deep within the soil, reducing the need for supplemental watering. Too much fertilizer, especially nitrogen, may encourage shoot growth but hinder the development of hardy roots. Nutrient deficiencies are just as bad because they stunt roots and shoots and make the turf more vulnerable to disease, insects, weeds and drought. Mowing To determine how often to mow, use the onethird rule no more than one-third of the leaf area should be cut at any one time. Frequent mowing produces thicker, denser turf. The denser the grass, the less water will evaporate from the soil. Also, dense turf is more able to resist weeds. Controlling Thatch Thatch, the layer of non-decomposed organic matter found between the soil surface and the base of the leaves, can slow water movement into the soil and cause run-off. Thatch accumulates because of heavy fertilization, improper mowing, and overwatering. Topdressing, verticle mowing (dethatching) and aerification can help control thatch development.

Aerifying the Soil Soil compaction keeps water and air from moving into the soil and reduces plant shoot and root development. Aerification of compacted soils once or twice a year helps break up packed layers to allow air and water to reach plant root systems. Considering the Role of Salt in Soil and Water In areas of the state where water is high in salts, plant a salt-tolerant grass species, such as Seashore Paspalum, bermudagrass, or Zoysia. Water deeply but only occasionally so salt does not accumulate in the soil. High levels of sodium damage soil quality and affect the ability of water to filter through the soil. Also, salt can exacerbate the effect of drought on turfgrass. Contact your county Extension agent for more information. Environmental Conditions Environmental conditions affect the water requirements of a lawn. With low humidity, high temperatures, and/or high winds, water is quickly lost from the soil by transpiration and evaporation (evapotranspiration) and grass will need watering more often. When weather is cool, humid, and/or less windy, grass will need less water. Table 2. Yearly nitrogen fertilizer requirements for common Texas turfgrasses. Maintenance needs (Pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet Grass species per year) Buffalograss 0-1 Carpetgrass 1-2 Centipedegrass 1-2 St. Augustinegrass 2-3 Tall fescue 2-3 Bluegrass 2-4 Zoysia 2-3 Common bermudagrass 3-5 Hybrid bermudagrass 4-6

The time of year also influences irrigation needs. During the summer, when temperatures are high and days are long, lawns generally need supplemental watering. The need for additional watering drops from late fall through early spring when temperatures become cooler, the days are shorter, and rain is more frequent. Table 3. Recommended mowing heights for common Texas turfgrass species. Grass species Mowing height (inches) Buffalograss 2-3 Carpetgrass 1-2 Centipedegrass 1-2 St. Augustinegrass 2-3 Tall fescue 2-3 Bluegrass 1-3 Zoysia.05-2 Common bermudagrass 1-2 Hybrid bermudagrass 0.5-1.5 When to Water Rather than watering on the same schedule each week, adjust your watering schedule according to the weather. Irrigate deeply. Then wait until the grass begins to show signs of drought stress before watering again. Symptoms of drought stress include grass leaves turning a dull, bluish color, leaf blades rolling or folding, and footprints that remain in the grass after walking across the lawn. To time watering properly, look for the area of the lawn that shows water stress first. Water the entire lawn when that area begins to show symptoms. A lawn that is watered deeply should generally be able to go 5 to 8 days between waterings. Established lawns with deep, extensive root systems sometimes can be watered less often. However, if soil is less than 5 inches deep, irrigation may need to be more frequent. Early morning is the best time to water. Wind and temperatures are usually the lowest of the day, and water pressure is generally good. That allows

water to be applied evenly and with little loss from evaporation. Watering late in the evening or at night causes leaves to remain wet for an extended period of time, which increases the chance for disease. Mid-afternoon watering may cause uneven distribution from high winds. How Much to Water Thoroughly wet the soil to a depth of 6 inches with each watering. Shallow watering produces weak, shallow-rooted grass that is more susceptible to drought stress. Soil type, sprinkler style and water pressure determine how much water is needed to wet the soil to a depth of 6 inches and how long a sprinkler must run. Use the following steps to determine how long to run your sprinkler or irrigation system. Set five to six open-top cans randomly on the lawn (cans with short sides such as tuna or cat food cans work best). Turn the sprinkler head or system on for 30 minutes. Measure and record the depth of water caught in each individual can. Calculate the average depth of water from all of the cans. For example, you have used five cans in your yard. The amount of water found in the cans was as follows: 0.5 inch, 0.4 inch, 0.6 inch, 0.4 inch, and 0.6 inch. Add the depths together and then divide by the number of cans you used (five in this case). 0.5 inch + 0.4 inch + 0.6 inch + 0.4 inch + 0.6 inch = 2.5 inches, 5 cans = 0.5 inch of water in 30 minutes Use a garden spade or a soil probe to determine how deeply the soil was wet during the 30-minute time period. The probe will easily push through wet soil but less easily into dry areas.

From the amount of water that was applied in the 30-minute cycle and the depth that it wet the soil, you can then determine how long the sprinkler must run to wet the soil to a depth of 6 inches. In this example, the system put out.5 inch of water in 30 minutes, wetting the soil 3 inches deep. Therefore, 1 inch of water will need to be applied to wet the soil to a depth of 6 inches, giving a total watering time of one hour. In some soils, especially heavy clay, it is difficult to irrigate 6 inches deep. Never apply water to the point of run-off. Water lost as run-off finds its way to sidewalks or cement gutters. If a sprinkler applies water faster than the soil can absorb it, stop irrigating until the surface dries and then resume watering. Checking Your Irrigation System There are many different irrigation systems available. Whether you choose an aboveground or underground system, it is important that it is working properly. A routine check should be made to ensure that water is being applied where it is needed, in the amount that it is needed, and in a uniform manner. Use the can method to check the distribution and amount of water being applied, and then make any needed adjustments. Make sure sprinkler heads have the right water pressure to apply water as drops and not as mist. Excess water pressure can cause significant water loss. Sprinklers should never water sidewalks, driveways or streets.

B-6126 6/06 KEEP YOUR LAWN alive DURING DROUGHT

keep your lawn alive during drought Homeowners know how important water is to maintaining healthy lawns. During times of drought, however, the water supply can become so depleted that some cities begin rationing programs to conserve water. You can still keep your lawn in good condition even when water is rationed. Although rationing programs throughout the state are very similar, each water district adopts a rationing policy based on its individual situation. Following is a list of water rationing stages practiced in the different programs in Texas. Find the * Associate Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist, The Texas A&M University System James McAfee* stage that is most like your situation and then see the suggestions for an appropriate lawn irrigation plan. Stages of Water Rationing Stage I Using water for outdoor purposes, such as watering lawns and gardens or washing cars, will be restricted to one of the following: Alternate Day Use. Customers with evennumbered addresses may water outdoors on even-numbered days, and customers with oddnumbered addresses may water outdoors on odd-numbered days. When there are no addresses, north and west sides of streets may

water on even-numbered days; south and east sides of streets water on odd-numbered days. Restricted Hours of Use. You may water outside only during periods specified by your water district. Every Five Day Use. Customers whose addresses end in 0 and 1 may use water outdoors on the first day of the month; 2 and 3, on the second day; 4 and 5, the third day; 6 and 7, the fourth day; 8 and 9, the fifth; 0 and 1, the sixth, etc. The water utility company generally provides a calendar noting the respective watering days for each month. Irrigation and Management Tips Under Stage I It is better for the overall health of a lawn to water infrequently (when drought symptoms appear) but deeply enough to wet the soil to the recommended depth. This reduces disease, helps air to move to the plant roots, and conserves water. During designated watering times, apply enough water to wet the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Use the following steps to determine how long to water. Set five or six open-top cans randomly on the lawn (cans with short sides, such as tuna or cat food cans, work best). Turn the sprinkler or system on for 30 minutes. Measure and record the depth of water caught in each individual can. Calculate the average depth of water from all of the cans. For example, you have used five cans in your yard. The depths of water collected in the cans were as follows: 0.5 inch, 0.4 inch, 0.6 inch, 0.4 inch, and 0.6 inch. Add the depths together and then divide by the number of cans you used (five in this case). 0.5 inch + 0.4 inch + 0.6 inch + 0.4 inch + 0.6 inch = 2.5 inches 5 cans = 0.5 inch of water in 30 minutes Use a garden spade or a soil probe to determine how deeply the soil was wet during the 30-minute period. Push the probe into the soil. It will push through wet soil easily but less easily when it reaches dry soil. Measure the depth of the wet soil.

Knowing how much water was applied in the 30-minute cycle and how deep that volume of water wet the soil, you can then determine how long the sprinkler must run to wet the soil to a depth of 6 inches. In this example, the system put out.5 inch of water in 30 minutes, wetting the soil to a depth of 3 inches. Therefore, 1 inch of water will need to be applied to wet the soil to a depth of 6 inches, giving a total watering time of 1 hour. 3 inches wet soil = 0.5 inch of water in 30 minutes 6 inches wet soil = 1 inch of water in 1 hour After you have adequately wet the soil, do not water again until the grass shows signs of drought stress. Symptoms of drought stress include grass leaves turning a dull, bluish color; leaf blades rolling or folding; and footprints that remain in the grass after you walk across the lawn. Although drought symptoms generally will develop in 5 to 7 days, symptoms may occur in as little as 3 days or not for 15 days. Therefore, under Stage I rationing, your grass quality should not suffer. In some areas of Texas, the depth of topsoil in the lawn may be less than 6 inches. If soil is less than the desired 6-inch depth, then apply only enough supplemental water to wet the existing soil profile. Run-off can be a serious problem that wastes large amounts of water. Soil type and the application rate of the sprinkler system determine how quickly run-off will occur. If water is applied faster than it can seep into the soil, it can run off the lawn and be lost. To Prevent Run-off Monitor the lawn for several irrigation cycles to spot water running onto sidewalks, streets or gutters. Note how long the sprinkler ran before water began to run off. Stop watering at that point to prevent water losses from run-off. Allow the soil surface to dry (30 minutes to 1 hour).

Change your irrigation timer to the shorter time limit noted above and begin watering again. Continue this cycle until enough water has been applied to wet the soil 6 inches deep. Other Considerations Mow your grass often enough to remove no more than one-third of the leaf blade at any one time. Reduce the amount of fertilizer applied to keep nitrogen levels low. If soil is compacted, aerification of the lawn will significantly improve efficiency of water moving into the soil surface. Stage II The use of water for outdoor purposes, such as watering lawns and gardens or washing cars, is limited to once a week and is usually based on home addresses. You may water with a hand-held hose with a manual valve only between 8:00 p.m. and 10:00 a.m. Irrigation and Management Tips Under Stage II Use the same approach in Stage II as was used in Stage I. If the soil is thoroughly wet to a depth of 6 inches with each watering cycle, the lawn should be able to go a week between irrigation cycles. If necessary, use a hand-held hose to water areas that show drought stress symptoms before watering the whole lawn again. Make sure you thoroughly wet the soil to the appropriate depth. Other Considerations Continue mowing as needed. Cut the amount of fertilizer applied to keep nitrogen levels low. Use a shower or fan type nozzle on your hose to evenly disperse the water. Stage III All outdoor water usage is prohibited except by hand-held hoses with manual valves for 2 to 4 hours per week.

Irrigation and Management Tips Under Stage III Irrigation during Stage III becomes more difficult. You still need to water deeply to maintain a healthy root system. However, it is time consuming to hand-water the lawn to the depth needed. Some approaches one might adopt during Stage III of water rationing include: Water with a hose only those areas that are showing severe drought stress. Make sure that enough water is applied to effectively wet the soil. When puddling or run-off begins to occur, stop watering that particular area, let the surface dry and then resume watering. Continue this cycle until the soil is wet to the appropriate depth. Use a sharp probe or spade to help determine the depth of water penetration. Do not water those areas again until drought stress symptoms reappear. This requires considerable time and daily attention. If you do not have the time to hand-water or the yard is too large, you may want to stop watering the lawn altogether. Most warm-season turfgrass species can survive short periods of drought stress. When the grass is under severe drought stress, it may go dormant. Dormant grass will turn brown and may appear dead. Once watering or rain begins again, however, the grass will recover if the drought has not been too severe. Recovery may take up to 3 months during the growing season. Grasses that can go dormant are buffalograss, Zoysia japonica, and bermudagrass. Other grass varieties are not as drought-tolerant, and they may die if they are deprived of water for an extended time. It is helpful to understand the strengths and weaknesses of your particular grass. (See Table) If the grass in your lawn goes dormant during drought, you could stop watering altogether. However, if your grass does not go dormant and must go without water for a long time, much of your lawn may die and need to be replaced. Use a combination of the previous two techniques. Water only high priority areas and allow other areas to go dormant or die. If you use the back yard more than the front, it would

be the high priority area. If a beautiful landscape is important to you, then the front yard might be the priority. This approach will allow you to maintain a green lawn in important areas of the yard and still save water. Other considerations Continue to mow as needed, cutting no more than one-third of the leaf blade at any one time. Use little or no nitrogen fertilizer. Use a shower or fan type nozzle on your hose to help disperse the water when watering by hand. Stage IV All outdoor water use is prohibited. The utility may exempt watering livestock. Irrigation and Management Tips Under Stage IV You are not allowed to water during this rationing stage. Buffalograss, bermudagrass and some of the zoysia varieties will probably survive without irrigation. They will become dormant until the drought ends, at which time they should green up again. Grass varieties such as St. Augustinegrass, centipedegrass, tall fescue, and some other species may be severely damaged or die during extended periods of drought. You may have to replant dead areas after the drought ends. Contact your county Extension agent if you have any questions. Other considerations Mow as needed, removing no more than onethird of the leaf blade each time. Stop fertilizing until drought restrictions are lifted.

Rating for drought tolerance of turfgrasses used in home lawns. Grass species Level of tolerance Comments Buffalograss High Goes dormant and recovers well from drought stress. Bermudagrass Medium - high Goes dormant and recovers well from drought stress. Zoysiagrass Low - high Zoysia japonica varieties such as Crowne, JaMur (depends on variety) (depends on the variety) Palisade have high drought tolerance, while varieties like Meyer have poor drought tolerance. Most Zoysia matrella varieties such as Cavalier and Zeon have poor to medium drought tolerance. St. Augustinegrass Medium Moderate drought resistance from an extensive, deep root system but poor ability to go dormant. Significant turfgrass loss during long drought periods. Note: The St. Augustinegrass variety Floratum has high drought tolerance but is limited to the southern portions of the state because of Floratum s poor cold tolerance.

Rating for drought tolerance of turfgrasses used in home lawns. (Continued) Grass species Level of tolerance Comments Centipedegrass Medium Moderate drought resistance from an extensive, deep root system but poor ability to go dormant. Significant turfgrass loss during long drought periods. Tall fescue Low - high A cool-season grass. Significant turfgrass loss during long drought periods. In its area of adaptation (midwest and northern parts of U.S.), tall fescue has medium to high drought toloerance. In Texas, its drought tolerance is low to medium.

B-6239 6/10 Turfgrass Establishment for Texas Ecological Turf Tips David R. Chalmers and James McAfee* Turfgrass is often planted without much thought as to what it needs to grow well and remain healthy. Turfgrass gets off to the best start when proper attention is given to: preparing the site and soil, understanding correct planting techniques for the material being used (seed, sod, sprigs or plugs), and caring for the grass properly after planting. This publication explains the steps involved in successful turfgrass establishment on any site, whether it is a lawn or sports turf that will be well watered and mowed often or a low-maintenance area. These steps are also important when renovating turf areas or repairing isolated spots. The successful establishment of turfgrass also depends on: selecting a grass type that is adapted to your part of Texas, making sure your site is appropriate for the grass type you select (soil type, soil depth, amount of shade, etc.), and giving the grass the level of care that matches its intended use. Options for Planting The grass species and variety you select also influences your planting options, as well as the site preparation you will need to do and the time * Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist and Associate Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist, The Texas A&M System. Table 1. An overview of turfgrass establishment methods suited for different grass species available in Texas. Grass species Seed Sod* Plug Sprig Bermudagrass Yes** Yes Yes Yes Buffalograss Yes** Yes Yes NR Centipedegrass Yes Yes NR NR St. Augustinegrass NA Yes NR NR Zoysiagrass Yes** Yes Yes NR Tall fescue Yes Yes NA NA Kentucky bluegrass Yes NA NA NA Texas bluegrass NA Yes NA NA *Many improved grasses do not produce viable seed and are only available as sod, plugs or sprigs. **Seeded types are typically not commercially available as sod. NR = not recommended because successful large scale establishment is difficult NA = not available in Texas or not an appropriate method it takes for the grass to establish. Table 1 shows the grass species suitable for Texas and the ways each can be planted. Table 2 has more detail on planting methods, quantity of planting material needed, and best planting season by method. If planting is contracted out, be certain to check the contract for the extent of services it specifies. Seed. Seeding costs less than other planting methods. Warm-season grass seed germinates best when the temperature is 70 degrees F to 95 degrees F, so late spring to early summer is the

Table 2. Types of planting material, methods, rates, and recommended season for planting. Grass species Established from Method of planting Quantity per 1000 sq ft Best planting season Bermudagrass Seed Broadcast 1/2 to 1 pound Seed and sprigs: Sprigs Sod Broadcast or sprig 6 inches apart in 12-inch rows Solid planting staggered in a brick- like pattern St. Augustinegrass Sod Solid planting staggered in a brick-like pattern 2-inch plugs cut from sod or stolons 2-inch sod plugs on 12-inch centers; stolons on 12-inch centers 5 to 10 bushels of sprigs Same amount in square feet as area to be sodded Same amount in square feet as area to be sodded Cut sod pieces from 30 square feet of sod, stolons from 3 to 6 square feet of sod spring and early summer Sod: any time of year best during spring, late summer and fall Sod: same as above Plugs: spring and early summer Centipedegrass Seed Broadcast 1/2 to 1 pound Seed: spring and late Sod summer to early fall Sod: same as above Solid planting staggered in a brick-like pattern Same amount in square feet as area to be sodded Zoysiagrass Seed Broadcast 1 pound Seed: spring and early Sod summer Sod: same as above Solid planting staggered in a brick-like pattern Same amount in square feet as area to be sodded Buffalograss Seed Broadcast 2 to 3 pounds Seed: spring Plugs Sod 2-inch sod plugs on 12-inch centers Solid planting staggered in a brick-like pattern Cut sod pieces from 30 square feet of sod Same amount in square feet as area to be sodded Plugs: spring and early summer Sod: same as above Tall fescue Seed Broadcast 6 to 8 pounds Sept. Nov. Sod Solid planting staggered in a brick-like pattern Same amount in square feet as area to be sodded Sept. Apr. Kentucky bluegrass Seed Broadcast 1.5 to 2 pounds Sept. Nov. Sod Solid planting staggered in a brick-like pattern Same amount in square feet as area to be sodded Sept. - Apr. Ryegrass Seed Broadcast 6 to 8 pounds Sept. Nov. 2

best time to seed bermudagrass and other warmseason turfgrasses. This will allow them to become well established before the growing season ends. Unlike bermudagrass, few types of seeded zoysiagrass and centipedegrass are readily available and these species grow much more slowly from seed than does bermudagrass. Seeded types of warmseason grasses are typically not available as sod, although there are a few exceptions. Many improved types of bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass and St. Augustinegrass varieties do not produce viable seed and are available only as sod, plugs or sprigs. Cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, Texas bluegrass), where they are adapted, are best planted in the fall. Information on the seed label is important. You can evaluate seed quality by reading the information on the label (see Fig. 1). The label gives the seed test date (which should be within 1 year of purchase) and the percent germination and purity. Both percent germination and purity should be as high as possible, with little weed seed and inert matter contained in the package. Buying certified seed ensures that the variety stated to be in the package is indeed the variety in the package. Lowpriced seed is often the most costly because it may have a low percent germination and purity. Professional landscapers evaluate seed on the basis of the percent pure live seed (not on the label). This number is the product of the percent purity and the percent germination. For example, bermudagrass seed with 85 percent germination and 98 percent purity contains 83 percent pure live seed (0.85 x 0.98 = 0.83). In contrast, bermudagrass with only 80 percent germination and 85 percent purity contains only 68 percent pure live seed. Make sure that the date of purchase is within 1 year of the seed test date. Seed should be stored in a cool, dry place to maintain viability. Lot # BR549-98-0254 Very Good Grass Blend Kind % purity % germination Golly Bermudagrass 49 85 BeGood Bermudagrass 24.5 85 Forever Bermudagrass 24.5 85 % Crop Seed 0.8 % Inert matter 1.1 % Weed seed 0.1 no noxious weeds Origin: AZ tested 4/10 sell by 4/10 John Doe Seed Company, Somewhere USA Figure 1. A sample of information on a grass seed label. Sod. Turfgrasses that spread by rhizomes and/ or stolons can be grown and harvested as sod. Although sod costs more than seed, sodding may not cost more than seeding when the long-term cost of growing in seeded turf is considered. Seed usually requires more irrigation, fertilization, weed control and time than sod to become established. Advantages of Sodding over Seeding The quickest way to establish turfgrass Gives immediate soil erosion control Eliminates problems with dust and mud Minimizes the need for weed control after planting Can be planted nearly year-round Can be used sooner than other methods Sod is available for some of the best turfgrass varieties Can be used for a total turf installation or the repair of smaller areas The best time to sod is when the turfgrass is actively growing so the sod will root or knit down as quickly as possible. As with seed, buying certified sod, if available, is the best way to be sure you are getting the stated variety. Before ordering or purchasing sod, be sure you are prepared to install it and can irrigate it adequately. Sod is perishable, so plant it right away; it should not remain on the pallet or stack longer than 36 hours (less in hot weather). Sod has traditionally been sold by the square yard, though the trend now is to sell it by the square foot. To determine the amount of sod you will need, measure the square feet of the area to be planted, then divide the total square feet by 9 (the number of square feet in a square yard) to calculate square yards. There are 111 square yards per 1,000 square Figure 2. Sod pieces stacked on a pallet awaiting installation. 3

feet. Sod is usually delivered on pallets that contain 50 square yards (450 square feet). There is some waste in installation because of odd shapes and irregular pieces, so order a bit more than you will need, based on the recommendation of the sod producer or landscaper. Sprigs. Sprigs are harvested from turfgrasses that spread by stolons. Sprigs may come in bags for small jobs or in bulk for large jobs. They are planted by uniformly distributing them over the site and then setting them into the ground with specialized equipment. Sprigging is used primarily to establish hybrid bermudagrasses. Sprigging costs more than seeding but less than sodding. Sprigs are sold by the bushel. A bushel of sprigs is approximately equal to 1 square yard of shredded sod. Sprigs should be planted in the spring or early summer so the grass will get established quickly. Sprigs are perishable and must be planted as soon as possible after harvest. Sprigging requires a good irrigation system because sprigs must be watered diligently to keep them from drying out as the grass is growing in. Bermudagrass sprigged at 5 bushels per 1,000 square feet should cover in 2 months or so with good growing conditions; zoysiagrass may require an entire growing season and, for that reason, is rarely sprigged. After planting, the sprigs may be covered with a thin layer of topsoil to help them get established. Since the sprigging is initially sparse, weed control will likely be necessary once the grass is mature enough to tolerate herbicides labeled for this use. Plugs. Relatively small areas can be established or repaired with plugs of grasses that spread by stolons, such as bermudagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass or zoysiagrass. Plugging can be done at any time during the growing season when adequate moisture is available. The proper distance between plugs depends on the rate of growth and on how soon you want the grass to reach 100 percent ground cover. St. Augustinegrass plugs 4 inches in diameter planted 2 feet apart should completely cover within 3 months if adequately watered and fertilized. Plugs must be firmly pressed into the soil and then rolled to give a smooth surface for mowing. Plugs can be obtained by cutting up sod pieces or by taking plugs from healthy turf areas and then backfilling those areas with topsoil. Most sod producers do not market plugs. Steps to Follow before Planting 1) Select a grass. The availability of sod, sprigs and plugs of particular grass species or varieties varies by region. Seed of specific grass varieties may be hard to locate, since garden centers usually carry only a few seed varieties of each species. Refer to Extension publication L-, Turfgrass Selection, (available from http:// agrilifebookstore.org) to select grasses best suited for your area. 2) Target the date of planting and work backward to schedule the preparation that must be done before planting. Turfgrasses should be planted when temperature and moisture are most favorable. This will be different for coolseason and warm-season grasses. See Table 2 for the approximate best planting dates for various grass species and planting methods. 3) Measure the lawn area. Measure to determine the total square feet to be planted and, thus, the amount of material or seed to purchase. You will also use the total square feet of the planted area to purchase fertilizer. Fertilizer recommendations are based on the number of pounds of nutrients needed per 1,000 square feet or per acre. 4) Test the soil. Texas soils are often deficient in the major nutrients required for turf. East Texas soils normally are deficient in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and require lime to adjust the acidity of the soil. Soil testing will determine whether the soil ph and nutrient levels are in a range favorable for turf growth. The soil test report will tell you how much fertilizer needs to be applied before planting. Fertilizer should be tilled into the upper 4 to 6 inches of the soil. Soil sample boxes and soil analyses are available through your county office of the Texas AgriLife Extension Service. You may also send soil samples directly to Extension s Soil, Water and Forage Testing Laboratory (http:// soiltesting.tamu.edu/). Allow 2 to 4 weeks to get the results from the soil testing lab. 5) Control perennial weeds. Perennial grassy weeds (e.g., bermudagrass, dallisgrass) detract from the appearance of new turf, compete with newly planted grass, and are difficult to selectively control with herbicides after the turf is established. Control grassy and broad-leaf weeds before planting by applying a non-selective, systemic herbicide (such as glyphosate). Two applications 4 to 8 weeks apart may be necessary to control perennial grassy weeds. Glyphosate has no soil residual and planting can be done 7 days after its application. However, weeds are best controlled when they are actively growing, which may not be until late spring. Controlling them may delay the planting of grass. 4

6) Prepare the soil and grade the site. Turfgrasses are healthier, need less water, and tolerate environmental stress better if they are grown in a deep, non-compacted soil. A soil depth of 10 to 12 inches is preferred. If topsoil depth is not an issue, grade the seedbed so the surface will drain away from the house, walks and driveways. A fall of 6 inches for every 40 to 50 surface feet is adequate for drainage. Make sure there are no pockets or depressions in the surface. Take care not to direct excessive water onto neighboring properties. Subsurface drainage systems are sometimes needed to remove excess water from poorly drained sites. In many parts of Texas good topsoil is a scarce commodity. If significant grading is required, stockpile the topsoil to the side of the property while grading the subsoil; then redistribute topsoil evenly over the area. If the topsoil is not deep enough, bring in good topsoil (a loam or sandy loam soil is best) to build up the native soil. Construct the site to avoid steep grassed slopes, as they are difficult to maintain. Do not indiscriminately add soil over tree roots without first seeking advice from a professional horticulturist. You may need to build a retaining wall a good distance from the tree trunk to avoid harming the tree. Be sure to remove all debris such as stones, tree stumps and construction debris. Then you are ready to till the soil. Compacted soils are usually not tilled before planting, even though they should be. Proper tillage requires the right equipment to do well and the soil settling process afterward takes time, so this important step is often skipped. Instead, compacted soils are often buried beneath a small amount of surface tillage or a shallow layer of topsoil or sand. If your soil is compacted, make every effort to till it deeply (scarify, chisel plow or rototill) so it does not become a permanent barrier to water flow, soil aeration and rooting. Do not till the soil when wet, as this will further compact it. After tilling, wet the soil to settle it; then let it dry. Repeat the wetting and drying cycle several times until the loosened soil has settled and you can determine whether further surface grading is necessary. It may or may not be necessary, or practical, to till in soil amendments (organic matter) to improve the soil before planting. If organic matter is needed, till it in before the final grading of the topsoil. Organic matter (composts, welldecomposed hardwood sawdust, or similar material) should be thoroughly mixed into the top 4 to 6 inches of the seedbed. Rotary tilling is a good way to accomplish this. Intensively used sports fields (football, soccer, baseball) may need special preparation so the soil will resist compaction and drain well. Sports fields are often built with soil mixes that contain a high percentage of sand and that have been laboratory tested by qualified soil scientists. 7) Install the irrigation system. If you will have an in-ground irrigation system, install it before the final grading. Soil disturbed by trenching will then have time to settle with repeated irrigation. Be certain to use qualified and licensed irrigation designers and installers. Irrigation heads should be at the same level as the final grade if you are seeding, and 1/2 to 3/4 inch above the final grade if you are sodding. 8) Add pre-plant fertilizer and amend soil ph. The soil test report (from step 3) will suggest the types and rates of fertilizers for the new turf. Most turfgrasses prefer a soil ph near neutral, in the range of 6.0 to 7.0. The soils in East Texas have a tendency to be acidic and may need liming to adjust the ph. Only a soil test can determine the need for lime. In much of Texas, the soil ph is above 7. While sulfur can be used to lower ph, the amount of sulfur needed and the effort required make it impractical to do so on such a large scale. Starter-type fertilizers typically have more phosphorus than nitrogen and potassium and their N, P 2 O 5, K 2 O nutrient ratios are about 1:2:1. If the soil test shows that a site is deficient in phosphorus, adding a starter-type fertilizer at planting might be beneficial. If no soil test was done, apply 1 pound of nitrogen, 11/2 pounds of phosphate, and 1 pound of potash per 1,000 square feet. This should be mixed into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil. 9) Irrigate to settle the soil. If the site was tilled again to amend the soil, irrigate it several times, allowing the soil to settle. This will identify low spots that may need to be re-graded before planting. 10) Do the final soil preparation. Walks and driveways should be flush with the final soil grade before planting. If planting with seed, sod or plugs, the soil should be rolled to firm the soil surface and then lightly raked to leave a corrugated surface. A well settled and firmed soil helps prevent ruts from mower tires and foot traffic while grass is growing in. If the site is 5

6 to be sprigged, firm the soil but leave the soil surface slightly loosened in the upper 1 to 2 inches. This allows the sprigs to be set into the soil and helps them take root. Make certain the final soil preparation is done in time to receive delivery of sod, sprigs or plugs. Figure 3. Pattern for seed distribution. Planting Tips by Method Seeding. Seed can be sown by hand but it is better to use seeders or spreaders. Divide the seed required for a specific area into two equal parts, one to be broadcast as you walk back and forth in one direction, the second to be sown as you walk at right angles to the first seeding. This will make the seed distribution uniform. After seeding, roll the area with a weighted roller so the seed will have good contact with the soil. Landscape professionals may offer hydro-seeding as an alternative. Hydro-seeding equipment mixes seed, fertilizer and mulch in a water tank to form a slurry that is then uniformly sprayed on the area prepared for seeding. Sprigging. When sprigs are broadcast over an area the grass covers more quickly and is more uniform than when sprigs are set in rows. Do not cover sprigs too deeply with soil because you must leave part of the sprig (or stolon) above the soil to produce new shoots and roots. In repairing smaller areas, or where sprigs do not get set into the soil, sprigs can be covered with a thin layer of topsoil to enhance rooting. Sprigging can take place at any time during the growing season when there is adequate moisture from irrigation. Plugging. The proper spacing between sod plugs depends on the grass species and how soon a 100 percent ground cover is desired. St. Augustinegrass plugs (4-inch diameter or square) planted on 2-foot centers will grow together within 3 months if adequately watered and fertilized. Sodding. The firm soil surface should be free of footprints, stones, depressions and mounds. Sod is perishable and should be installed within 36 hours of harvest. If you see mildew or yellow grass leaves as you pull the pieces off the pallet, it is evidence of sod heating injury, which happens when sod is left on the pallet too long. Do not plant such sod. Figure 4. Sod installation. To reduce the need for short pieces when installing sod, it is generally best to establish a straight line lengthwise through the lawn area. Lay the sod on either side of the line with the ends staggered in a brick-laying pattern. If the terrain slopes significantly, place the sod strips perpendicular to (across) the slope. On severe slopes the sod may need to be staked until it roots to prevent it from slipping during heavy rains. A sharpened concrete trowel is very handy for cutting sod pieces, forcing the pieces tightly together, and leveling small depressions in the soil. Make certain to butt each sod piece up against the others as tightly as possible when laying the sod. Immediately after planting the sod, roll it with a weighted roller. Keep the sod moist until it is well-rooted into the soil. If the sod dries soon after transplanting, it will tend to shrink and separate from adjoining pieces, leaving gaps where weeds can grow. Care after Planting Mulching. Mulching is a common practice on cool-season grasses but not on seeded warm-season grasses such as bermudagrass or buffalograss, since heavy mulch blocks out sunlight needed for warm-season grass seed to germinate. However, hydro-seeding may include a layer of hydro-mulch to stabilize the soil surface and aid germination. Watering. Newly seeded or sprigged turf should be watered frequently. The first few weeks are especially critical as the plants begin to send out new roots and shoots. If young plants are allowed to dry out, they may die. Keep the seed or sprigs and the soil moist, not saturated, during this initial growin period. This may be difficult to monitor in large landscapes, since it will take awhile for an irrigation system to cycle through all irrigation zones. It may be necessary to water four or five times for short periods on hot, windy days. After about 2 weeks, seedlings should be growing (germination time varies with species) and sprig roots should be developing. Watering amounts and frequency can be adjusted as seed and sprigs mature.

After planting sod, water enough to ensure that the soil under the sod is wet to a depth of 2 or 3 inches. Roots develop fairly rapidly under good growing conditions and with good watering practices. Avoid overwatering, as roots do not grow as quickly in saturated, oxygen-deficient soil. Water newly sodded areas as you would established turf, except more frequently. Each time the sod begins to dry out, water to a depth just beyond the depth of the root system. After 2 weeks or so, begin to increase the amount of time between waterings. Mowing. Allow the turf grass to grow onethird to one-half higher than the desired mowing height before beginning to mow. Sodded sites will be ready for mowing sooner than others. Seeded or sprigged sites should not be mowed until they can tolerate the mowing without damage and have covered well enough that the mower wheels will not create ruts. The recommended turf mowing heights will determine how frequently to mow. Keep mower blades sharp. Dull mowers can dislodge or damage young seedlings. Fertilizing. If fertilizer was applied before planting and the area was planted during the active growing season, then apply nitrogen fertilizer at a rate of 3/4 to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet when new growth from seedlings or sprigs reaches a height of 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Thirty days after this application, begin to follow a maintenance fertilization program. Refer to Extension publication E-437, Lawn Fertilization for Texas Warm-Season Grasses, (available at http://agrilife bookstore.org/) for fertilizer rates and application timing for established warm-season lawns. Controlling weeds. Newly seeded, sprigged or plugged areas may become weedy before they are completely covered with grass, as weeds are opportunistic, quick to germinate, and grow in the absence of turf competition. While grass is growing in, the safest way to control weeds is hand weeding. Help the grass compete against weeds by giving it adequate fertilization and irrigation and by mowing frequently. Regular mowing can help keep summer annual grassy weeds in check until grass plantings mature enough to tolerate post-emergence herbicides. Different types of grasses tolerate selective herbicides differently. It is best not to apply an herbicide until after the second or third mowing, when grass should be mature enough to tolerate it better. Always select an herbicide labeled for use on your grass species and read and follow the label guidelines. Sodded areas have few if any weed problems after planting if good quality weed-free sod is used. Fully Established Turf A turf is well established when the grass can express the true characteristics of the species. It is often assumed that a lawn is established when it covers the ground completely. However, grass planted from seed or sprigs can reach total ground cover, under good care, in 60 days but still be more at risk from drought or heavy traffic than more mature grass stands. For seed, sprigs and plugs it takes about a year from the date of planting to consider the lawn truly established. Planting sod significantly speeds up the establishment process. Overseeding Warm-Season Grasses for Winter Overseeding bermudagrass turf for winter color is another type of turf establishment used on sports turf, golf courses, and commercial lawns. However, it is not necessary. Overseeding should be done only on fully established turf. Overseeding is typically done in the fall about 5 to 8 weeks before the expected first frost date. The turfgrasses most commonly used for overseeding are varieties of perennial ryegrass, intermediate ryegrass, and improved turf-type annual ryegrass. Perennial ryegrass is generally the preferred choice for winter quality. The rate for ryegrass overseeding ranges from 5 to 10 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet, depending on the type of turf. The most important issue associated with overseeding is the time known as spring transition, when the turf is changing from the actively growing overseeded grass back to pure bermudagrass. Ideally, the overseeded grass will die out gradually as temperatures begin to warm and bermudagrass begins to green up. As the overseeded grass thins, bermudagrass takes its place. But in many years temperatures do not warm soon enough for the overseeded grass to thin out, so it delays the spring recovery of bermudagrass. When this happens, it is not uncommon for the overseeded grass to die quickly in mid- to late spring, leaving behind a thin and weak bermudagrass turf. This is a concern more with the perennial ryegrasses than with improved turf-type annual ryegrasses. 7

The development and printing of this publication was supported through the Texas Department of Agriculture Specialty Crop Grant Program in cooperation with the Turfgrass Producers of Texas and the Texas AgriLife Extension Service. Produced by AgriLife Communications, The Texas A&M System Extension publications can be found on the Web at: http://agrilifebookstore.org Visit the Texas AgriLife Extension Service at http://agrilifeextension.tamu.edu Educational programs of the Texas AgriLife Extension Service are open to all people without regard to race, color, sex, disability, religion, age, or national origin. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as amended, and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. Edward G. Smith, Director, Texas AgriLife Extension Service, The Texas A&M System. 5M, New