AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION OFFICE - Brevard County Extension Office 3695 Lake Drive Cocoa, FL 32926-8699 (407) 633-1702 (407) 633-1702 Hours are 8-5 Monday-Friday UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA - ENVIRONMENTAL HORTICULTURE http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/index.shtm UF Environmental Horticulture [Facebook page] http://turf.ufl.edu/rapiddiag_disease.shtml DISEASE HAPPENINGS http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep236 HOMEOWNER BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES FOR THE HOME LAWN http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/overmulching.shtml MULCH CAN DAMAGE TREES http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep011 NATIVE FLORIDA PLANTS FOR HOME LANDSCAPES http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/yourfloridalawn/ http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/shrubs/index.shtml http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/trees/index.shtml RESIDENTIAL LANDSCAPES (YOUR FLORIDA LAWN) SHRUB INDEX (514 SHRUB FACT SHEETS) TREE INDEX (680 TREE FACT SHEETS) http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/selection.shtmltree SELECTION FOR URBAN AND SUBURBAN LANDSCAPES http://lyra.ifas.ufl.edu/floridatrees/ FLORIDA TREES FOR URBAN & SUBURBAN SITES http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep141 WEED MANAGEMENT IN HOME LAWNS UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA - LAWN & GARDEN CALENDAR (Monthly) http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/lawn_and_garden/calendar/pdfs/august_central.pdf http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/lawn_and_garden/calendar/pdfs/september_central.pdf http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/lawn_and_garden/calendar/pdfs/october_central.pdf http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/lawn_and_garden/calendar/pdfs/november_central.pdf http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/lawn_and_garden/calendar/pdfs/december_central.pdf MW Page 1
Skip to main content Important! This site requires Flash Player. Get the necessary flash plug-in here. Follow instructions on screen. It may take a few minutes to do this. This web site is designed to help guide you through the process of tree selection, and provide a list of possible trees for your project in Florida and southeast US hardiness zones 8-11 (Click here if you live in zones 2-7). It is also designed to provide extensive cultural and maintenance information, and many photographs. This information was assembled through a grant from the USDA Forest Service Southern Region through the Florida Division of Forestry in cooperation with University of Florida and the Florida Yards and Neighborhood project. The principle authors of this system are Drs. Ed Gilman and Howard Beck, professors at University of Florida, and Alison Boydstun, assistant in horticulture. Using the Tree Selector The Tree Selector allows you to develop a list of trees. You develop the list by choosing soil, site, and plant attributes. You can mark more than one value of an attribute such as soil ph. This chooses trees that can grow in soils with either one of the values of soil ph. On the other hand, when you choose values for more than one attribute, such as acid soil ph and tree height 25-50 feet, only trees with both attributes will be listed. You may choose as many attributes as you like but remember the list of matching trees diminishes as you pick more attributes. When your plant list becomes very short or has no trees on it at all, start over and choose fewer attributes. Click here for more detail. Tree Indexes Scientific Names Common Names Tools Site Analysis Tree Selector Tree Expert System Tree Identification Related Sites Urban Design Nursery Growing Selection Planting Pruning Maintenance Palms Uncommon Trees o zones 7-9 o zones 9-11 MW Page 2
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http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/overmulching.shtml Mulch can damage trees Too much mulch applied over the root ball or resting against the trunk (see right photos) can cause problems for trees. Roots often grow up and into the mulch causing stem girdling roots which can kill trees (lower photo). This is especially troublesome on trees planted within the last 10 to 20 years. In addition to causing problems described below, mulch can also hide decay and dead spots on the lower trunk and major roots. Decay in this portion of the tree can cause the tree to become unstable. Keep mulch about 12 to 18 inches from the trunk for any size of tree. Mulch should not be piled against the trunk (above) because roots may grow there (below) and girdle the trunk. Latest research on mulch affect on trees Mulch on root ball intercepts water, causes problems Mulch near trunk causes stem girdling roots/ treatment Mulch close to trunk causes decline Mulch close to trunk causes tree death Good vs. bad Appropriate mulching (3" depth and none on root ball) shown below Copyright 2010 University of Florida Last Modified: May 10, 2010 MW Page 4
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http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu/ For Homeowners Solutions for your yard: all you need to know about tending a Florida landscape. More... Community Associations and Property Managers A one-stop information kit on Florida-Friendly Landscaping communities, maintenance, principles and legislation. More... For Professionals Information about Green Industries Best Management Practices and the FYN Builder & Developer Program. More... FFL in the News Articles and videos about the Florida-Friendly Landscaping Program. More... e-newsletters Creating Florida-Friendly Communities-- For developers, landscapers, community associations, and environmental professionals. The Neighborhood Gardener-- For Master Gardeners and Homeowners. Landscaping FAQs We have received many questions related to fertilization, irrigation and landscaping in Florida. More... MW Page 6
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep236 Homeowner Best Management Practices for the Home Lawn 1 Laurie E. Trenholm 2 Everyone enjoys the look of a nice healthy lawn. Not only do lawns increase the value of a property, they cool the air, combat glare and noise, and reduce soil erosion. Most importantly, a healthy lawn actively filters and traps sediment and pollutants that could otherwise contaminate surface waters and groundwater. It is very important that homeowners use Best Management Practices (BMPs) when maintaining their lawns. Failure to follow BMPs can result in pollution of Florida's surface or groundwater resources. To learn more about a healthy, Florida-Friendly lawn, please read these easy-to-follow tips: Lawns Get Hungry All lawns benefit from regular fertilizer applications throughout the growing season. Applying the proper amount of fertilizer for your grass species will help to promote a vigorous, healthy lawn that can outcompete weeds. In June of 2007, the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (FDACS) passed a rule regulating labeling requirements for urban turf (home lawn) fertilizers. This rule is intended to reduce potential non-point source pollution that might result from application of excess fertilizer to lawns. The rule says that only fertilizers containing low or no phosphorus (phosphorus is represented by the second number on the bag) can be sold for use on lawns. The same rule limits the total annual amount of phosphorus that can be applied to a home lawn. It also limits nitrogen application amounts to the rates recommended in this fact sheet, which vary according to the species of turf that make up your lawn and your location in the state. No matter what kind of grass you have or where you live in the state, you should apply only up to 1 lb of nitrogen for every 1000 square feet of lawn each time you apply fertilizer, if that fertilizer has 30 percent or more slow-release content. If the fertilizer has 15 30 percent slow-release content, apply up to.5 lb of nitrogen per 1000 square feet with each application. You should not exceed the application rate of 1 lb of nitrogen per 1000 square feet at any one time. The new labeling requirements make it easier for homeowners to find lawn fertilizers with both slow-release nitrogen and low or no phosphorus. Slow-release nitrogen may be safer for your lawn and the environment, and it will provide a longer-lasting response from the grass. See Tables 1a and 1b for the recommended fertilizer rates for your lawn's square footage and your fertilizer analysis. The low phosphorus will not be harmful for most lawns in Florida because most Florida soils are already high in phosphorus, and turf requirements for this nutrient are generally low. It is important to test your soil to determine phosphorus levels. Check with your county Extension Office for information on how to submit soil samples for phosphorus testing. In south Florida, you can apply fertilizer throughout the year. In north and central Florida, wait until the danger of frost has passed before you apply fertilizer in the spring. Your fertilizer application should be around the end of September in north Florida and mid-october in central Florida. Do not apply fertilizer if heavy rainfall is forecast in the next 24 hours. If you have a small strip of lawn that adjoins impervious surfaces, such as sidewalk or pavement, use a spreader equipped with a deflector shield (Figure 1) that will spread the fertilizer in a 180º arc to keep it away from the paved area. Use the same shield when you are fertilizing areas next to water bodies. Leave a 10-ft strip of turf around the water body unfertilized to avoid polluting the water. If you spill fertilizer on the driveway or sidewalk, sweep it up and put it back in the bag. Always sweep up spilled fertilizer rather than rinsing it away, even when the spill is on the lawn. Spilled fertilizer easily finds its way down storm drains or into the ground and from there into the water supply. Store your unused fertilizer where it will stay dry. Do not store it next to pesticides, fuel, or solvents. MW Page 7
Let the Mowing Begin! Mowing may seem like the bane of your existence during the summer months, but it is actually one of the most important home-lawn management practices. Follow these suggestions for a healthy, happy lawn: Mow at the highest height for your grass species. For St. Augustine grass and Bahia grass, this is 3.5 4 inches. If you have St. Augustine grass "dwarf" cultivars 'Delmar' or 'Seville', mow at 2 2.5 inches. Mow centipede grass at 1 2 inches. Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at any one time. Cutting too much of the leaf blade can stress your lawn and leave it susceptible to insect or disease invasion. If you miss a mowing session, raise the mower height and bring the grass back down to the recommended level gradually over the next few mowing sessions. Leave grass clippings on the lawn. They do not contribute to thatch, and actually return a small amount of fertility and organic matter back to the lawn. Keep your mower blades sharp. Dull mowers tear the leaf blades. This makes the lawn look bad and leaves it susceptible to insect or disease invasion. Do not mow your lawn when it is wet. This is dangerous for you, tough on the mower, and bad for the grass. Irrigation or Irritation? More lawns are damaged by improper irrigation practices than any other single cultural practice. Train your grass to be more drought tolerant using the following methods: Irrigate less frequently. Each time you water, water for a slightly longer time. This will help train your roots to grow deeper in the soil, which will in turn make your lawn more drought tolerant. Grasses irrigated in this manner will have a better chance of surviving watering restrictions. Turn your automatic sprinkler system to the "off" position, and turn it on when your lawn shows signs of needing irrigation. Adjust your timer seasonally. Irrigation frequency will vary depending on where you are in the state, as well as the amount of shade in the landscape, soil type, etc. For more information, please refer to How to Calibrate Your Sprinkler System. Remember that functional rain shut-off sensors are required by Florida law on all irrigation systems installed since 1991. Irrigate your lawn as-needed, rather than on a schedule. A lawn is ready for watering when the leaf blades show at least one of the three wilt signs: when leaf blades start to fold in half lengthwise, when the grass takes on a bluish cast, or when footprints remain visible in the lawn long after being made. Irrigate when about 50 percent of the lawn shows one of these signs, unless rain is forecast in the next 24 hrs. In most parts of Florida, irrigate to apply ½ ¾ inch of water. To determine how long you need to run your irrigation system to apply ½ ¾ inch of water to the whole lawn, place straight-sided cans around the perimeter of each irrigation zone. Turn on the irrigation system and monitor the cans to see how long it takes to fill them to ½ ¾ inch. Time irrigation intervals for the zones accordingly If you are in an area with very sandy soil, you may need to apply the higher amount of water. Heavier clay soils may only need the ½-inch rate. In southeast Florida and the Keys, where soil depths are shallow, you may only be able to irrigate ¼ inch to saturate the soil. If application of these amounts results in runoff, reduce the amount of water you apply. In some soils it may be necessary to apply half of the amount needed, let it percolate through the soil, and then apply the remaining water a short time later. MW Page 8
In north or central Florida, irrigate every 2 3 weeks during the winter months, even if your grass is dormant. The roots are still viable, and irrigating through the winter will help the grass green up more quickly in the spring. Irrigate around sunrise or in the early morning hours. The leaf blades must dry out fully during the day to ward off disease. Weed Woes A healthy lawn that is properly fertilized, mowed, and irrigated will typically outcompete most weeds. However, some degree of weed control is often required to supplement even the best cultural practices. Some weeds can be chemically controlled after they have emerged. Others, particularly grassy weeds, are better controlled pre emergence. To control the weeds in your lawn before they emerge, you need to know where they are and what they are. You then need to select the right product and to apply it at the right time. For pre emergence crabgrass control, look for products containing pendimethalin (available under multiple brand names). Apply this at label rates around the first of February in south Florida, mid-february in central Florida, and the first of March in north Florida. Note that there are no chemicals currently available for post emergence control of grassy weeds in St. Augustine grass. For St. Augustine grass lawns, atrazine is a commonly used herbicide for control of many broadleaf weeds. Be careful not to apply atrazine when temperatures are high (greater than 85º) because it may injure the grass. Please refer to Table 1* and Table 2* below to calculate the correct fertilizer application rates for your size lawn and for different types of fertilizer. Please refer to Weed Management in Home Lawns for more information. Whenever you apply chemicals, remember that the label is the law and that the directions must be followed! The best defense against weeds or other lawn problems is to grow a happy, healthy, Florida-Friendly lawn by following the fertilization, mowing, and irrigation tips described above. HAPPY GROWING!!! * - to view the tables, please reference the complete article via these links: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep236#table_1 and http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep236#table_2 Footnotes 1. This document is Fact Sheet ENH979, one of a series of the Environmental Horticulture department, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. Publication date: April 2004; revised December 2007, June 2009. Please visit the EDIS website at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu 2. Laurie E. Trenholm, Assistant Professor, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, Environmental Horticulture department, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville, FL 32611. Copyright 2009 Site Feedback About This Site MW Page 9
Disease Happenings - 2010 http://turf.ufl.edu/rapiddiag_disease.shtml Archive of Disease Happenings 2007, 2008, 2009 June 2010 Gray leaf spot is active on St. Augustine grass lawns and sod farms. Be on the lookout for this disease to worsen with regular return of summer afternoon rains. Lawn areas with shade stress and areas that tend to recieve excess nitrogen fertilizer will have gray leaf spot first and more severe than other parts of the lawn. Leaf and sheath spot caused by Rhizoctonia zeae has been diagnosed by Jerry on several samples in the first two weeks of June. The disease results in thin turf grass canopies on Bermuda grass and seashore paspalum greens. Symptoms are easily confused with nematode damage, drought stress, and many other stresses. Early diagnosis and management steps can help turf grass managers get a handle on the problem in the preventative or early curative stage. Fungicide products do a better job preventatively with this disease. Take all root rot and Bermuda grass decline are starting to progress from the yellowing and thinning symptoms to the patch symptoms at this time of year. We are nearing the end of the window when fungicides can be expected to provide good control of these diseases. Curative applications don't usually do well. Applications at the time of sod installation and 30 days later seem to give the most consistent result, especially in areas where the disease has been a problem before. Don't make applications to soil prior to installing the new sod. It's a waste of time and money. Apply products to the new sod as soon after installation as possible. Jan 2010 2009 was another record year for the Rapid Turfgrass Diagnostic Service. 2010 has started with a bang due in part to La Nina weather patterns this winter. Bipolaris leaf spot and melting out are coming into the clinic along with the occasional dollar spot and some large patch, even on the Bermuda grass this year. Expect additional disease activity this spring from large patch and take all root rot/bermuda grass decline. Mapping Function for Rapid Turf Service IFAS DDIS folks (thanks Xin) have developed a mapping website for our turf sample data. It shows what diseases occur on what grasses in what FL counties, during time periods the user specifies. Download the plug-in and try it. MW Page 10
FCHOA ACRC LINKS LIST 2010 What are Best Management Practices for Florida's Green Industries? Best Management Practices (BMPs) are designed to preserve and protect Florida's water resources from non-point-source pollution occurring from agricultural fertilization. The Green Industries BMPs were developed with pest control operators, fertilizer sales businesses, environmental groups, the Florida Department of Environmental Protection, and the University of Florida. The manual provides instruction in proper fertilization, pest control, irrigation, and cultural practices to green industry workers. Knowledge of appropriate fertilizer rates, sources, and application methods can greatly reduce any potential non-point source pollution of Florida's ground and surface waters. For an on-line version of the Green Industries BMPs, click here. There is also an educational program to train all green industry workers in how to implement the policies in the manual. Again, this was developed with the lawn care and pest control industries. The educational program is endorsed by the Florida Department of Environmental Protection and is brought to you by the University of Florida. Statewide BMP training is held several times during the fall and winter months. Check back to this site for updated session schedules or contact your county extension office to see if they are scheduling the training. If you are a homeowner who uses a commercial lawn care service, ask if they have been trained and certified in the BMPs by the University of Florida Extension Service. If you take care of your lawn yourself, please make sure that you follow the BMP recommendations. The difference you make today may impact Florida's environment for generations to come. MW Page 11
http://turf.ufl.edu/ TURF GRASS Rapid Turfgrass Diagnostic Service University of Florida, Turf Path Program General Information Submission Guidelines Disease Happenings Download the Submittal Form (pdf) This service was designed and implemented for managers of high quality turfgrass in Florida. The biggest distinction between this and the standard services provided by the Plant Disease Clinic is the turn-around time for sample results, the direct involvement of the UF Extension Turfgrass Pathologist, and the price charged for the service. The price is $75 and reflects the added costs associated with a full time student dedicated to turfgrass diagnostics with rapid turn-around time. Financial support generated through this program is appreciated. A preliminary diagnosis will be provided within 24 to 36 hours of receiving the sample. The preliminary diagnosis will be based on visual observation of the sample upon arrival, communications with the sample submitter, and inspection of samples for disease symptoms and pathogen signs after incubation in a moisture chamber. Recommendations will be made to steer short term management strategies based on these observations. If no pathogens are detected, the diagnosis and recommendation will be based on symptom appearance and timing, host affected, and observations of disease trends for the area. The final report will provide a diagnosis based on culture plate results and additional observations after extended incubation. Fungicide recommendations will be made that reflect the results of research conducted at the University of Florida. Additional information in the final report will include EC and ph data for the sample. Soluble salts (EC) and ph evaluations (if made) will be performed according to the procedures indicated in the ESTL Analytical Procedures and Training Manual: UF/IFAS Extension Soil Testing Laboratory (ESTL) Analytical Procedures and Training Manual Mylavarapu, Rao S., E.D. Kennelley. 2002. Cup-cutter samples cannot offer a representative population of a nematode infestation, however; roots will be inspected for damage. If nematode feeding damage is suspected, this will be indicated in the report. Submitting a sample for nematode assay will also be recommended. Instructions for proper nematode sampling techniques can be found at Nematode Management for Golf Courses in Florida Crow, W. T. 2001. The final diagnosis and recommendation can be e-mailed, faxed, telephoned, or sent via regular mail. Please indicate your preferred method of reply on the submission form. MW Page 12