Year Around Harvest 4: Containers, Small Gardens, Greenhouses Linda Gilkeson www.lindagilkeson.ca
April: What to Plant? Seed: peas, root crops, lettuce & greens, potatoes, cabbage family Set out: cabbage family seedlings Plant onion sets and seedlings, leek seedlings Start corn, beans indoors: May 1 onward
Topics Making use of small spaces What to grow High density plantings Going vertical Growing food in containers What to grow Containers, soil mixes, watering Fruit in containers Greenhouses & tunnels Designs & materials Management tips
Making Use of Small Spaces 1. Succession planting 2. Dense planting 3. Inter- and under-planting 4. Vertical cropping
Vegetables for small spaces Cut-and-come-again greens Small rooted plants: lettuce, radishes, scallions, corn salad Bush squash & cucumbers Determinate/bush tomatoes Long harvest cultivars: Pole beans, tomatoes, peppers
Make the most of succession planting Plan successive plantings at 2 to 4 week intervals: April to mid-august: sow small amounts of quick growing crops: Lettuce, radishes, Chinese cabbage, arugula, spinach May & June: 2 to 4 plantings of bush beans, sweet corn, cauliflower, peas Don t leave over-mature or surplus plants in garden
Sow winter crops as soon as spring crops finish Early Crop Early spring peas, lettuce, greens, radishes Onions from sets Early Chinese cabbage, carrots, cauliflower May/June lettuce & greens, radishes Garlic planted last fall May/June bush beans, cauliflower, carrots Finished 1 st weeks of July 3 rd week of July Late August
Fill gaps as they arise Keep a seedling nursery for transplants Sprinkle seeds in gaps between plants Purchase mid-summer transplants from nurseries
Gap for seeds
Especially Quick Crops Sow in spring or late summer cooler weather: Leafy greens: edible from smallest leaf size Radishes: 3-4 weeks White turnips, beets: Ready to eat when 1-2 inches in diameter Cabbages: Sweetheart cabbages, summer cabbage: 45-50 days Start in summer warmth: Zucchini: Ready 55 days from June/July sowing Bush beans: Harvest in 50-60 days from July sowing
Plant densely Do you really need rows in a raised bed? Plant spacing can usually be closer than recommended on seed package, if your soil is well fed and irrigated
Dense planting patterns Chicken wire template Quincux
Dense Planting Needs fertile soil & regular watering Supplementary fertilizer may be needed in summer Helps control weeds
2016
E.g., Dense Vegetable Spacing Onions, celery, leeks: 15-20 cm apart Squash: Hills (3 plants) 1 m apart Broccoli, cabbage: 30-40 cm apart Peas, beans: 2-4 cm in row Lettuce, greens: 1-2 cm in row
Thinning: Dense doesn t mean overcrowded Beets & chard always have to be thinned
Inter-planting Plants occupy different root zones or mature at different times: Example, in order of harvest: 1. Spring lettuce 2. Early cauliflower 3. Summer broccoli (circles) remains until winter
Other Inter-planting Lettuce fits with many plants Radishes among carrots Lettuce between Br. sprouts
Winter crops between summer crops (& visa versa) Winter cabbage family with cucumbers
Example: April: Seed peas & lettuce May: Set out broccoli, cauliflower plants June: Set out Brussels sprout plants
Late June: Set out cucumbers Late July: Remove peas, cauliflower finished
October: Cucumbers finished Broccoli remains until end of December Brussels sprouts remain all winter For crop rotation purposes, what is the key crop in this bed?
Succession & Inter-planting March/April: Plant peas (back) & lettuce (front) Example May: Set out broccoli & cauliflower in gaps where lettuce has been harvested June: Plant Brussels sprouts & cucumbers after last of lettuce cut July: Finish cauliflower & peas, leaving room for broccoli & Br. sprouts to grow October: Cucumbers done, Broccoli finishes in Dec., Br. sprouts stand all winter
Under-planting Sow hardy fall greens (corn salad, lettuce, arugula, leaf radish) under squash, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers Works in containers too
The same squash bed in winter - full of corn salad
Crop rotation review Reduces risk of soil-borne diseases & insect attack Most important (in this region) for 4 plant families: Carrot family: 2-3 summer months to allow carrot rust flies to emerge Cabbage/mustard family, Nightshade family (potatoes) & Onion family: 4-5 years due to risk of root disease IMPORTANT: Beware self-sown plants don t let kale, dill, cilantro, seed everywhere...
Tuck these plants in anywhere, any time Goosefoot family: Spinach, Swiss chard, beets Sunflower family: Lettuce, endive, artichoke Valerian family: Corn salad Grass family: Corn Gourd family: Squash, melon, cucumber Pea family: Peas, beans
Fruit for small spaces Multi-graft & dwarf fruit trees Genetic dwarf peaches, nectarines Grapes, Issai hardy kiwi on walls & fences Bush raspberries Apples on M27 rootstock
Check whether cross-pollination is required Most apples & pears, some cherry & plum varieties can only set fruit if they receive pollen from a different, compatible variety Note: Pollen from some apples won t fertilize other apples: Gravenstein, Mutsu, Jonagold, Stayman
In a world with fewer bees: Choose easy fruit to pollinate Self-fertile plums & cherries; all peaches & nectarines Multi-graft trees: 3-5 varieties on one tree Berries: Longer, later bloom=better chance of good weather for pollinators No pollinators needed for: Grapes: Wind-pollinated Figs: Closed fruit is self-fertile
Fruit for Small Spaces 3 varieties of apples on one dwarf tree makes pollination more likely
Everbearing & Day neutral strawberries yield all season Production from June to October: E.g., Tristar, Albion, Quinault June-bearing cultivars have a short season, but are early enough to avoid attack by spotted wing Drosophila Tristar in September
Going Vertical Train annuals up trellises: Peas & pole beans Tomatoes Cucumbers & melons (support the fruit in slings)
Install supports at planting time Heavy string Bamboo, metal, wood stakes, branches Wire mesh, stucco wire Tomato cages
Going Vertical On fences & walls: Grapes Hardy kiwi Bramble berries (but they are hard to manage)
Growing Food in Containers Best suited: Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant Lettuce & salad greens Swiss chard, kale Herbs, parsley, perennial arugula Bush squash & bush cucumbers Strawberries
You can grow anything if you really want to... Taking into consideration cost and productivity, of course...
Container Characteristics The larger the better: Root space Insulation from temperature extremes Holds more water
Almost anything can be used
Hanging Containers Suited to small plants with small fruit: cherry or patio tomatoes, peppers Watering can be a challenge must be as even as possible Late blight anyone? Forget the upside down pot fad...
How many plants/container? Vegetables are heavy feeders & need lots of root space 1 gallon: 1 pepper plant or 5-10 lettuce 2 gallons: 1 cherry tomato
How many plants/container? 5-7 gallons: 1 large tomato, 1 cucumber or squash, 1 potato or sweet potato
Ensure Good Drainage 2-4 drainage holes in bottom Place flat rock or piece of broken pot over drainage hole Use pot feet to raise pots off ground or within saucer Check where drain water will go: you may need large saucers to prevent water damage under pot
Soil Mixes: Vegetables Well-drained, very fertile: Heavier: Equal parts: sand, peat moss/coir, good garden soil, good compost Lighter: Equal parts peat moss/coir, Perlite/vermiculite, fish compost, potting soil Lightest: Soil-less mixes (e.g., Sunshine organic planting mix) or equal parts peat moss/coir, Perlite/vermiculite, fish compost For homemade mixes, add complete organic fertilizer (1/4 cup/gallon of soil) + Add agricultural lime (~1 tablespoon /2 gallons of soil)
Planting Methods Firm soil mix well as layers are placed in pot Large planters: fill 2/3 full, water soil and allow to settle before finishing planting If soil mix is too fluffy, plants sink when mix is watered May need to top up soil mix around plants later
Where to put containers: In full sun: 5 hours minimum (6-8 hours best) Can move pots over the season to follow sun Where pot weight & drainage water won t be a problem Growing tomatoes under roof overhangs avoids late blight
Weight Considerations Decks, balconies, roof gardens: Use light weight containers & soil-less growing mixes On balconies or roofs: Set pots at least a foot away from walls to avoid stressing flashing joint On decks: Set heavy pots over support posts or on pallets to spread weight over a wider area Heavy pots are easier to handle if a plastic pot is used as a liner
Containers for Winter Crops Use frost-proof containers Move to protected location Underplant summer plants with corn salad, lettuce, leaf mustards Dig plants from garden & fill containers in fall: Swiss chard, winter lettuce, spinach, arugula
Watering: The Big Challenge Hand watering may need 1-2 times daily in summer Automatic drip systems give good results Inverted pop bottles with or without spikes work well
Blossom end rot: Irregular Watering Most common in container tomatoes & peppers: Caused by calcium deficiency in plant tissues, usually because of irregular growth due to irregular water supply
Self-Watering Containers Hold 12 gallons of soil + reservoir holds 1.5 gallons water Expensive & very heavy Provide excellent results
Making Self Watering Containers Any kind of inner pot with perforated bottom to hold the soil and plants fastened inside an outer pot to hold the water can be used Plastic inserts are available with integrated water reservoirs to go in a container of your choice
Regular liquid feeding Container plants need liquid fertilizer weekly to monthly because: Restricted root space Veggies are heavy feeders Nutrients are leached out by watering Use: Manure or compost tea Seaweed extract + fish fertilizer Complete liquid organic fertilizer
Provide strong, stable support Internal/In pot External
Sweet potatoes (AKA Yams ) Grow rooted cuttings indoors until spring Set out in large pots, rich soil, in hottest spot you have Root new slips in fall or from tubers on heat in January Cdn Supplier: Mapple Farms, Weldon, NB
Fruit in Containers Soil and fertility management is challenging: Salt builds up from fertilizers over long term: flush thoroughly with water annually Older plants become root-bound, require periodic repotting: Add as much fresh soil as possible + compost Trim back roots or move to larger container In spring, top-dress soil with complete organic fertilizer Continue liquid fertilizer during cropping season
Soil for Container fruit Long term drainage is critical Steady availability of nutrients is key Non-citrus trees: Equal parts course sand, Perlite, vermiculite, fish compost, garden soil Complete organic fertilizer with lime or add 1 tablespoon lime per 2 gallons of soil Citrus: Equal parts course sand, screened bark mulch, Perlite, vermiculite, fish compost Complete citrus fertilizer or complete organic mix without lime (e.g., Gaia Green 4-4-4)
Strawberries: Best fruit Small roots are well suited to containers Traditional strawberry jar: for Containers Day neutral/ever-bearing cultivars most productive Firm soil well as each tier of plants is set in (or else weight of settling soil pulls plants inside) Also bush raspberries: Brazelberries Raspberry Shortcake
Tree Fruit in Containers Genetic dwarf peaches & nectarines Figs, persimmons Sour citrus: Dwarf Meyer lemon, Bearss lime, Yuzu Apples on M27 dwarfing rootstock
Citrus Dwarf Meyer lemon, Bearss lime Tolerate -2 to -4 o C: Move pots to protected location or under glass in cold snaps Avoid iron & zinc deficiencies: Don t overwater Maintain soil ph 6.0 Use complete citrus fertilizers Foliar feeding may be needed
End of Season: Prepare for Winter Roots in pots are vulnerable to frost (equivalent of growing 2 zones colder) Move planters under glass or to protected locations Lift plastic liners from ceramic pots & store outer pots Insulate around pots (leaves, plastic, straw, etc.) Store breakable pots upside down in a dry place
Greenhouses & Tunnels Permanent or temporary Freestanding or attached Home made, prefab kits, custom built Plastic, fibreglass or glass Heated or unheated Small, medium, large... $0 to $50 to $5,000 to?
Do you need a permanent greenhouse? Can you manage with a simpler structure? Depends on purpose, budget, personal preference
Tunnels: Spring crops Homemade pipe & plastic secured to frame or stretched over hoops Commercial kits: Plastic cover & easily assembled frames (wood, plastic)
Tunnels: winter Crops High tunnels catch wind lower profile is better Covers must be well secured to frames Frames must be sturdy, staked down to resist wind Warmer during the day, but not at night Protect plants from winter rain
More examples
Greenhouses Frames Plastic pipe: low maintenance, low expense Aluminum: low maintenance, more expensive Wood: high maintenance, usually cheaper Glazing Glass, rigid plastics, plastic film Desirable: wiring for lights & heat Plumbing for water supply
Attached Greenhouses Integral part of house (sun room) or attached to exterior Benefit from warmth of house wall in winter Can help heat house in spring & fall Frames Powder coated aluminum: low maintenance, expensive Wood: high maintenance Tempered glass for overhead panels Double glass windows for sunrooms
Greenhouses: Summer Heat loving crops: tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, sweet basil, melons, long English cucumber, sweet potatoes
Unheated: Greenhouses: Winter Excellent for lettuce & leafy greens Sow seeds under summer plants or transplant grown plants into empty beds in the fall
Beds vs. Benches Beds: More stable temperature & moisture in root zone Easier to manage soil fertility Benches & shelves: Plants in pots manage as for containers Seedling production It is nice to have both!
Soil or Growing Media Deep soil beds in greenhouses: Use less lime than outdoor soils because not exposed to high rainfall May need to test ph more often than outdoor garden Use gypsum to provide calcium for plants instead of lime (e.g., Gaia Green complete organic fertilizer) Pots and planters: Regular liquid fertilizer during growing season
Management: Cooling On a sunny day in February air temperatures can exceed 30 o C Summer temperature with poor ventilation can exceed 40 o C (which kills pollen of peppers & tomato) Ventilation is essential: you may need fans Shading cloth cools, but reduces light for photosynthesis; best used temporarily
Other Management Summer: Soil dries out quickly will need more water than outdoor garden Use mulch to cool soil, retain moisture Winter: Soil needs water occasionally Cover plants in cold snaps no snow cover to insulate crops
Spring Troubleshooting
Adults active in March, feed on leaves & lay eggs beside plants until late May Larvae eat root nodules One generation/year Pea Leaf Weevil Feed on peas, broad beans sown in fall or early spring
Managing Pea leaf weevil Sprout peas 2-3 weeks ahead, indoors Feed spring peas with nitrogen-rich fertilizer to compensate for loss of root nodules Late plantings (May & June) miss the main generation of weevils
Sowbugs, Pillbugs Keep soil surface dry (water early in day) Pull mulch away from seedlings Pre-sprout beans, corn seeds; set out transplants Traps: paper tents, sticky inside Raise cucumber & melon fruit off the ground Over-heat cold frames, greenhouses between crops Dysdera Photo V. Hilton