Riddles of the Ridgeway Discover a South Dorset landscape with 5000 years of history still there to explore today A Bronze Age funeral at Bincombe Down, South Dorset
From the earliest times Prehistoric monuments and earthworks are visible across much of the Dorset landscape but especially in south and west Dorset. To many people these ancient earthworks are simply lumps and bumps in the ground. Over time, many have been eroded by the plough and the ever constant need to farm the land. Poor Lot Round Barrows But, have you ever asked yourself how, when and why they were constructed? What did they look like when first built? Have they changed over the centuries? What was life like for our ancient Dorset forebears? Early 20th Century excavation We still know relatively little about the people who built these monuments and what we do know comes partly from the interest (and excavation) shown by the antiquarians of the 18th and 19th centuries. By today s standards, their excavation methods were crude and as a consequence, much valuable information was lost. Modern methods are far more sensitive and thorough. In fact, many of the structures that we now know existed cannot be seen because they have been totally ploughed away. Evidence for their existence has only been revealed by painstaking excavation. These early archaeologists referred to the earthworks as tumuli; now they are known as barrows. Many books and articles have been written on the subject and excavations in the past 40 years have also added to our knowledge but there is still much that we don t know. It is difficult to imagine what life was like here 4000 years ago when our main source of information is the way they dealt with their dead. M E S O L I T H I C 10,500 BC 10,000 BC 9,50
The particular landscape of interest stretches from Broadmayne in the east to Kingston Russell in the west. This is a broad ridge (capped by acid gravels at Black Down) of chalky downland known as the South Dorset Ridgeway. There is a steep escarpment on the south side and a gently sloping landscape to the north. Within this area (some 14 square miles) at least 500 earthworks have so far been identified. Bronkham Hill, South Dorset Ridgeway Experts talk about the Neolithic, the Bronze Age and the Iron Age, but people and cultures changed only gradually as the centuries passed and so these periods should not be thought of as rigid partitions. The Neolithic refers to approximately 4200-2200 BC. Maiden Castle (causewayed camp) Our story begins with the building of a causewayed camp on the east end of the hill now occupied by Maiden Castle. Causewayed camps consisted of one or more enclosing ditches with banks. The ditches are not continuous but have causeways across them. They seem to have been used as ceremonial and ritual meeting places rather than for domestic occupation. These are amongst the earliest monumental constructions in southern England and date from 4-3000 BC. Long Bredy Bank Barrow The monument most commonly associated with the Neolithic period is the long barrow and the south Dorset Ridgeway boasts at least 10 of them! Long barrows are elongated (often 100 metres) earth and stone mounds. Some have a burial chamber, often stone-built, and this may explain why seven of them are clustered on the Ridgeway north of Portesham as there is a large stony outcrop known as the Valley of Stones nearby. The sheer size and complexity of these structures suggests a level of organisation among Neolithic peoples that had been hitherto unknown. Perhaps each family group had a tomb in which the bones of their dead were deposited. The long barrows were in use during the middle Neolithic period; broadly 3200 to 2600 BC. P E R I O D 0 BC 9,000 BC 8,500 BC 8,000 BC
The Broadmayne Bank Barrow Three unusually long mounds exist from this early period, known to archaeologists as bank barrows. The eastern bank barrow is at Came Down (SY703853 see above) and the western bank barrow is on Martin s Down near Long Bredy (SY 573910). The third (and the longest at 545 metres) is situated along the spine of Maiden Castle hill top and running across into the earlier causewayed enclosure. They do not seem to be associated with burial and may have defined the boundaries of land ownership. So, for about a thousand years, the inhabitants of the Ridgeway had built linear monuments mainly for the burial of their dead, but things were about to change. In the middle of the third millennium BC the causewayed camps and the long barrows were deliberately sealed and a new type of earthwork was constructed - the henge. An external, circular bank and ditch (or series of pits) enclosed a variety of structures either in stone or in wood. The most famous example nationally, is Stonehenge. Nine Stones stone circle near Winterbourne Abbas The henge enclosure at Maumbury Rings is still visible albeit much altered by the Romans (for use as an amphitheatre) and 1600 years later, as a Civil War fort. Excavations here in 1909 revealed that the structure was in fact a circle of shafts with an external bank. There is an example of a massive henge enclosure (although totally ploughed over) at Mount Pleasant to the east of Dorchester. Several others Maumbury Rings today have now been identified in and around Dorchester e.g. at Dorchester Middle School. Like the causewayed enclosures before them, their function was most probably as a meeting place for ceremony and ritual. M E S O L I T H I C 7,500 BC 7,000 BC 6,50
Into the Bronze Age At the same time as the henges were beginning to appear, a major change in burial practice was gradually taking place. There was a shift of emphasis away from communal burials towards individual burials. Long barrows ceased to be used and instead the now familiar round barrows began to appear all along the chalky ridge and mostly above the 125m contour. These barrows were constructed over a thousand year period (2600BC to 1600BC). The tradition of burying a special vessel with the dead person in the earliest of these burials led to the people being called Beaker folk. A similar contemporary pattern of behaviour has been identified across northern Europe from Spain to the Rhineland. It is interesting to speculate whether these ideas spread (through trading for example) in a cultural process similar to the spread of ripples in a pond. Dare we suggest that there was perhaps a European Community with distant trading contacts 4000 years before our own EC was set up? The burial custom also included the burying of daggers and beads and thus the earliest metal objects found in Britain are from Bronze Age graves. Some of these burials were particularly rich and contained small items made of gold. Antiquarians and diggers of the nineteenth century were excited by the prospect of rich and enigmatic finds and so barrow digging became a popular pursuit in Regency and Victorian England. The excavators recorded valuable information (albeit piecemeal) when they cut into the centres of the mounds and we can still see the deep indentations they cut even today. Some of the rich finds can be viewed at the Dorset County Museum in Dorchester. Pure Gold lozenge from Clandon Barrow Yet another major cultural transition took place from the mid-second millennium BC. Barrows were generally no longer built (although earlier ones were frequently re-used). Examples of middle-late Bronze Age burials are associated with a particular form of pottery known as Deverel-Rimbury ware. Rimbury urn field was located to the south of Bincombe Hill near Weymouth and an incense cup from this location (now in the British Museum) gave its name to this type of pottery. We see also the development of the Deverel- Rimbury tradition: viz the first settlement cremation cemeteries. P E R I O D Britain becomes an island 0 BC 6,000 BC 5,500 BC 5,000 BC
Bronkham Hill from Hardy s Monument Poor Lot barrow group Poor Lot group from the roadside of the A35 Round barrows near Gould s Hill on the South West Coast Path
2 Bowl barrows on Gould s Hill Bincombe bumps from the air Broadmayne Bank barrow group from the air 3 Ditched Bowl Barrows at Northdown Barn near Broadmayne
Cremations (the remains placed in urns) and burial without a mound became the accepted custom. In other parts of Dorset (Cranborne Chase for example) there is evidence of field boundaries. Although this agricultural development is not obvious on the Ridgeway, it does suggest that late Bronze Age people were beginning to create an enduring farming landscape. and so to the first millennium BC In the later Bronze Age, new settlements and new ideas emerged. The tradition of barrow burial had ceased by the beginning of the Iron Age (circa 800BC). Concurrently, the construction of hillforts began. Two of the earliest in the country Chalbury hillfort, North side are at Abbotsbury (SY 555865) and Chalbury (SY 694838) near Weymouth. Early hillforts were small in comparison to later examples such as Maiden Castle and Hambledon Hill. Some hillforts were initially small but were enlarged later. A substantial degree of social organisation was needed to construct these earthworks. We know little of the political structure of the period but the tribal centre can be identified as the massive hill fort at Maiden Castle (SY 669885). By the time the Romans arrived, the tribal structure and cohesion was such that the Roman mathematician and geographer, Ptolemy, writing some 100 years after the invasion, was able to refer to the tribe as the Durotriges. Durotrigian territory extended from the modern Devon / Dorset border to Hengistbury Head (near modern day Christchurch) and up to the Bristol Channel. Thus the period of monumental earthwork construction along the South Dorset Ridgeway came to an end. In spite of the enormous effort needed to construct the hillforts, they proved no match for the invading Roman army of AD43. The Romans did use Hod Hill for a short time and Eggardon Hill remained occupied but the era of the Hillfort effectively ceased with the Roman invasion. Astonishingly, our Ridgeway landscape still bears the outward signs of this remarkable 4000 years of Dorset s history and much of it is there for you to see, to learn from and enjoy! Read on to discover how you can find out more!! Maiden Castle, ramparts at eastern entrance N E O L I T H I C P E R I O D Bank and Long barrows 4,000 BC 3,000 BC 2,30
The project comprises a series of events and activities that are variously enlightening, informative, engaging, entertaining and exciting. The project s aim is to help you find out more about the area s amazing ancient history, and where to get out and about amongst it. This is being done through a focus on survey & research, access & interpretation, celebration and working with schools. The project is supported by the Heritage Lottery Fund, and is part of the work of the Dorset Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Partnership. Survey & Research Part of the project is to investigate and record more about this special area, and there are a number of opportunities for volunteers. Bournemouth University are carrying out a number of geophysical surveys of some barrow groups. In other parts of the county, this type of work has revealed more barrows and ancient structures that are no longer visible on the surface. There are a limited number of places for volunteers to work alongside students on this work. Over the project period we want your help to record people s impressions, memories and tales about the Ridgeway area. There is a wealth of legends and stories surrounding the monuments and their setting. There are opportunities for volunteers to be trained in the use of equipment and interview techniques, and to go out and record these tales and memories for posterity. The project is also gathering information about old field names, interesting historical events and more on a parish scale. Dorset History Centre has a wealth of records for volunteers to investigate. The aim is to make some parish maps, showing the important and interesting sites. For more information on volunteering for research, contact the Ridgeway Project Officer on 01305 756782 B R O N Z E A G E Hill Forts 0 BC 2,000 BC Round barrows 1,000 BC 800 BC
Access & Interpretation The surveys and research being carried out will increase our knowledge of the area. This information is going to be available via the website, printed material, talks and organised walks. All events are publicised on the Dorset AONB website and in the local Tourist Information Centres. The Ridgeway area is criss-crossed by lots of public rights of way, for walking, cycling and riding. We re publishing some circular walks that will take you past some of the best monuments in this beautiful landscape. We re not great fans of information boards in the open countryside, so the interpretation produced shall be portable like printed material or electronic. Look out for podcast downloads or telephone trails to illustrate and illuminate your walks and wanderings. Celebration It s not all serious stuff! The Ridgeway area is so unique that we re planning to make a song and dance about it. Look out for various events such as Storytelling and poetry: Hear some tales about the Ridgeway - such as whispering barrow. If you put your ear to one magical barrow, you are supposed to hear the whispering voices of fairies Art exhibitions: The Ridgeway area has been an inspiration to many artists through the project there will be exhibitions of their work. Art workshops: Have a go yourself! Join an artist for a day to look at the Ridgeway through a different pair of eyes. Re-enactments: Making the Ridgeway s history come to life, there will be a chance to see the Romans in Dorchester or some Iron Age people defending Maiden Castle. Schools If you are a teacher or pupil at a school in the area, we have got some exciting opportunities for you and your school to get involved with the Ridgeway. We re working with education specialists to make sure they are relevant to the curriculum. Field trips: We can provide transport to get school groups out and about around some of the Ridgeway s sites, and we can provide an expert guide. Classroom materials: We re putting together boxes of artefacts related to the ancient history of the Ridgeway, as well as learning activities, whiteboard materials and much more. We can come into schools to help teachers with these lessons, and we can also provide training for teachers to deliver them alone. To find out more about any of these activities and events, see the Ridgeway pages on the Dorset AONB website (www.dorsetaonb.org.uk) or call 01305 756782 to speak to the Ridgeway Project Officer I R O N A G E The Romans arrive 500 BC 43 AD 500
The Past on Your Doorstep The Dorset Historic Environment Record is a record of all known archaeological finds and features and historic building in the county. It is growing and being up-dated constantly, as new information is discovered and in the light of changing archaeological theories. Play your part in this process by reporting chance finds and observations, contributing the results of your own research, taking part in organised documentary and field survey exercises, or by joining our network of parish Historic Environment Liaison Officers. If you have a project in mind, but aren t sure where to start, get in touch we may be able to help with tips and useful contacts. Anglo-Saxon burial with dagger, Maiden Castle For information and advice, contact the Dorset County Council Historic Environment team on 01305 224921 or visit www.dorsetforyou.com/her If you would like to view some of the artefacts discovered in the Ridgeway barrows then visit the Dorset County Museum in Dorchester Tel: 01305 262735 for opening times Help look after the landscape: Keep to public rights of way and never walk through crops; remember; grass is a crop too! Keep your dog under control and clean up after it Close all gates unless already tied open Take your litter home. it spoils every one s enjoyment of the countryside Guard against all risks of fire.especially in hot, dry weather and on heathland sites Don t trample wild flowers or disturb birds and other animals Help reduce traffic by walking, cycling or using public transport Stay local, eat local, buy local. buying local goods and services helps to support the AONB and its communities AD 1,000 AD 1,500 AD 2,000 AD
Contact us: Dorset AONB Partnership AONB Office The Barracks Bridport Road Dorchester Dorset DT1 1RN If you would like to learn more about prehistoric Dorset; here are four books you should consider reading: Prehistoric Dorset by John Gale (2003) published by Tempus Books The Prehistoric Age by Bill Putnam (1998), Dovecote Press British Barrows, A Matter of Life and Death by Ann Woodward (2000), Tempus Books Dorset s Archaeology by Peter Stanier (2004), Dorset Books Front Cover Illustration Painting Title: A Bronze Age funeral at Bincombe Down, South Dorset At dawn, in the space between the two great barrows and their smaller neighbours, dancers circle around a collared urn containing the burnt remains of one of their community. The shaman performs a rite of passage. Wearing a cape of bright fox fur and a headdress of feathers, she swings a small pottery vessel, holding smoking incense, above the urn. The most distant barrow is being prepared for the burial of the remains, while in the foreground, children watch the ceremony as their mother stokes the fire and the funeral feast is laid ready. This high place has an overwhelming atmosphere even now, despite the pylons and the roads and Weymouth curving around the bay. How potent it must have been when the land was barely tamed by the small groups of farming people who raised these mounds. Jane Brayne, Archaeological reconstruction artist. Tel: 01305 756782 Fax: 01305 756780 E-mail: dorsetaonb@dorsetcc.gov.uk or visit: www.dorsetaonb.org.uk All leaflets can be made available in audio tape, large print and Braille, or alternative languages on request. Please call 01305 756782 for further information. We gratefully acknowledge the assistance and co-operation of a number of organisations and individuals in scoping and launching this project: English Heritage, Dorset County Council, The DCC Historic Environment Team, The Dorset Countryside Ranger Service, The Countryside Agency, English Nature, Dorset County Museum, The Dorset History Centre, The National Trust, Ms Jane Brayne, Dr Bill Putnam, Richard Crumbleholme and the landowners and farmers of the Ridgeway. The images of the artefacts are kindly provided by the Dorset Natural History and Archaeological Society at the Dorset County Museum. Other images courtesy of Francesca Radcliffe, Tony Flux, Mark Simons and Bill Crumbleholme. The centre page map is adapted from the map included within the Royal Commission on Historical Monuments: Dorset, Vol 2, part 3 (1970).