Presented by: Patrick Dickinson

During the summer, it is estimated that 30 to 70 % of water used is applied to the landscape.

I r r i g a & o n supplements r a i n f a l l. During the summer, it is R a i n f aestimated l l that D 30OtoE70S% of water used is applied to NOT supplement the landscape. irriga&on.

Common Irrigation Issues Over watering Improper design and installation Improper scheduling practices No routine maintenance

Drip Irrigation The most Efficient Irrigation Method. 90% efficient compared to 60% or less with other systems. Easily installed and equipment readily available. Typically exempt from water restrictions imposed during drought. Reduces water loss due to evaporation. Reduces water lose and contamination due to runoff. Reduces leaching of water and nutrients below the root zone. Saves Water and Money

Drip Irriga)on Installa)on Op)ons Design and install for new landscape Attach to garden faucet Convert existing irrigation system

Types of Drip Irriga)on ½ tubing with no emitters Add emitters only where you want water (point source) ½ inch tubing with inline emitters 12, 18, 24 36 Install in new landscape, run off faucet or convert existing system ¼ tubing with no emitters Used off ½ inch tubing, convert existing system ¼ inch tubing inline emitters T-Tape Inexpensive ½ thin wall tubing Soaker Hoses Easy to bend around shrubby Inexpensive

Micro Irriga)on Fi7ng Remove Sprinkler Head and Add Adapter to Riser

Drip Irrigation Connection to Garden Faucet Faucet Backflow preventer Splitter Filter Drip Irrigation Filter Timer Pressure Regulator Tubing Adapter or garden hose

A@aching Garden Hose to Drip Tubing in Planted Beds

Conversion Adaptor Barbed tee Pressure regulator Filter Replace 1 or 2 Sprinkler/s with Adapter and cap all other risers

Conver)ng an Exis)ng System Must convert the entire station/ zone Replace sprinkler head with drip adapter Add pressure regulator and filter to valve

Irriga&on Valve Water In Water Out Main Line Is always full of water unless isola)on valve Lateral Line Water only in line when zone running

Conver)ng an Exis)ng System Water out Water in Pressure Reducer Filter Valve Shut Off

Conver)ng an Exis)ng System Main Water Line Lateral Line

DIY Tools and Materials

Preferred looped system

Cap end for Vegetable rows

Every Design can have a Different Pa@ern

Sub-Surface Drip

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Better Nozzles Increase efficiency of spray irriga)on by replacing spray nozzle with mul)- stream rotors. More than 60% more efficient than regular nozzles.

Rain and Freeze Sensor

Irriga)on BMPs Water only when required. Water deeply to promote deep and healthy roots. One inch of water will generally penetrate the soil to a depth of six inches. Water slowly for better absorption. Use drip or soaker hoses wherever possible Maintain a 2 to 4 inch mulch layer in flower, groundcover, garden and shrub areas Water newly planted flowers, shrubs and trees individually Water without creating runoff Check irrigation system monthly

Catch Can Test The root zone (where water and nutrient absorbing roots grow) is typically 6 inches deep in clay soil and 8 to 10 inches in sandy soil. Usually 1 inch of water will fill this root zone but in many cases irriga)on systems apply water faster than the ground can absorb. Each sprinkler system applies water at different rates therefore a catch can test is essen)al to determine the run )me and efficiency of the system. 1. Place 5 to 9 catch cans (tuna or cat food cans work great) in each irriga)on zone or sta)on. 2. Run each zone for 5 minutes to determine how much water is applied in each zone by measuring the amount of water in each catch can. The goal is to water 1 inch. Example: if there is 1/4 inch of water in each catch can a7er running for 5 minutes, to apply 1 inch of water set the run =me for 20 minutes (Test each zone. Water applica=on and distribu=on can vary by zone.)

Cycle and Soak This method of applying water to the landscape is made up of mul&ple cycles for each sta&on with 30 to 60 minute for the water to soak into the soil between cycles. 1. The first cycle will break the surface tension of the soil and saturate the top layer of soil. 2. The second cycle infiltrates the soil more efficiently and deeply a`er the first cycle. 3. A third, and some)mes a fourth cycle, is beneficial if a slope is involved or if runoff occurs a`er the sprinklers run for just a few minutes. For example: if you have determined a7er tes=ng with the catch can test that you need to run a sprinkler sta=on 30 minutes, then you could schedule your controller to run 2 =mes for 15 minutes, or 3 cycles for 10 minute, depending on runoff

Senate Bill #198 Relating to restrictive covenants regulating drought-resistant landscaping or water-conserving natural turf. A property owners association may not include or enforce a provision in a dedicatory instrument that prohibits or restricts a property owner from: implementing measures promoting solid-waste composting of vegetation, including grass clipping, leaves, or brush, or leaving grass clippings uncollected on grass; installing rain barrels or a rainwater harvesting system; implementing efficient irrigation systems, using drought-resistant landscaping or water-conserving natural turf. Presented by: Patrick Dickinson

www.dallasia.org Presented by: Patrick Dickinson

#SprinklerSpruceUp Patrick Dickinson Horticulturist ISA Certified Arborist TCEQ Licensed Irrigator Program Coordinator Urban Water Texas A&M AgriLife Researh 17360 Coit Road I Dallas, TX 75252 t. 972.952.9635 I f. 972.952.9216 patrick.dickinson@tamu.edu AgriLifeDallasWaterUniversity PatrickDickinsonAgrilife Agrilife Water University AgriLifeWaterU PatrickAgrilife dallas.tamu.edu Presented by: Patrick Dickinson