Growing Worsleya procera - (My growing climate is in Northern NSW Australia) (The content of this file is a compilation of my own images & information + some information taken from the web). The genus Worsleya in the Amaryllis Family (Amaryllidaceae) is endemic to the Atlantic rain forest in the Organ Mountains in Brazil. Worsleya belongs to the American clade, and it is closely related to Griffinia in the same clade. They are herbaceous perennial bulbs. The flowers are borne in an umbel at the top of the peduncle or stalk. The amaryllid genus Worsleya is restricted to Brazil in South America, and has but a single species, Worsleya procera (or Worsleya rayneri), the so-called "Blue Amaryllis." Although the common name refers to it is an amaryllis, it's closest relatives are small plants in the genus Griffinia. Worsleya can become quite large in its native habitat. The following map (South America) shows a Red X, Which indicates where Worsleya are found in wild. Worsleya rayneri. It is one of the largest (around 1.5 meters high) and rarest members of the subfamily Amaryllidoideae (family Amaryllidaceae). Worsleya is a tropical plant. This species is also known as the Empress of Brazil because of its origin in South America. It grows in very extreme and moist environments, and is commonly found near waterfalls in rich soil situated on granite rocks (which is why it is sometimes
considered to be a lithophyte) in sunny places. However, it is very difficult to cultivate. It has plenty of needs, though it can exhibit great hardiness. It also has many ornamental traits. The plant has a large bulb that produces a high stem with green recurved leaves. Worsleya produces spectacular and beautiful blooms. They are large, lilac to blue colored, with small freckles on them. The seeds are black and semicircular, and are usually sown in pumice or sometimes Sphagnum, although with Sphagnum, the threat of decay is higher. The climate in my area is warm temperate to semi tropical (I feel this is the ideal climate for Worsleya to grow out doors); Spring, summer & Autumn, have minimum temperatures of minimum 10 oc to maximum temperatures of 40 oc. Break down of temperatures; September to November most nights get down to 10 oc or less ie 5 oc in September. While day temperatures in September are minimum of 20 oc up to 30 oc maximum. As the initial temperatures are variable ie large difference between night minimum & day maximum temperature, results in slow growth, though from November on the temperatures have a minimum of 15 oc Maximum of 35 oc brings on a strong flush of growth also the light intensity in full sun is intense with high UV (ultra violet radiation levers) readings. Glass house with around 80% shade with good ventilation gives best growth of seedlings also germinating seed. Mature plants also grow well in the full sun from September to end of May (beginning of winter). During winter the adult plants also grow in full sun though growth rate is minimal. The micro-climate where I am has approximately 2 weeks of winter around July August where the minimum temperatures can get as low as -3 oc at night while day temperatures are usually around 18 oc to 25 oc (quite pleasant). July to September minimum night temperature usually 0 to 5 oc. The seed produced by cross pollinating two different clones (seedlings), resulting in a large bulbous seed pod with 3 segments. The seed pods take approximately 6 months to ripen (under high light to full day sun). The bulk of the ripening of seed pods is done during the summer & autumn while the seed in my climate is most often ripe in mid winter (temperatures can vary from -3 oc to 40 oc during the ripening time). When seed pods ripen, they tend to start to dehydrate then split open exposing the large black seed inside (Best time to pick seed). Seed can be planted immediately giving best germination results, though if seed is put in a plastic bag with reduce amount of air in bag, then placed in cool, dark place (preferably wrap seed in tissue paper to reduce sweating) then seed can be stored for 4 to 6 months with good viability. When growing seedling Worsleya I find growing in semi shade in the garden is ok though get faster growth in a plastic plant house with good ventilation. The plant house is in full day sun getting approximately 7 hours direct sunlight/day in spring, summer & autumn. In climates where the temperatures are too low to germinated seed or during seasons such as winter, where seedlings are exposed to very low temperatures? I use a heated fish tank as shown in the next image.
Basic lay out of mini heated glass house (size of fish tank can be increased to grow larger plants in cold climates, reducing heating costs). The fish tank is often wrapped in bubble wrap plastic to reduce heat loss see next image; I sit the tank in a plant house, though inside a house in front of a window which gets direct sun for at least 3 hours will also do I usually sent the fish tank heaters to 20 oc to accommodate heat loss on extremely cold nights, this ensures that the plants will have a humid environment with a minimum temperature of 15 oc. During the day time if in warm sunny position I lift the glass cover to allow air circulation & to stop over heating. Replacing glass cover as temperatures drop at night. Growing Worsleya from seed; Worsleya seed needs sunlight to germinate, so place the seed on top of a quality potting mix (Do not cover seed with seed raising mix), once seed is planted, water seed tray or plant post well then place in growing area i.e. shade verandah, indoors, glass house etc., seed germinates approximately one month i.e. 30 days after planting (may vary depending on temperatures).
When seedlings have produced a green leaf then feeding with liquid fertilizer starts, ½ strength (every two weeks) for first 2-3 months then full strength every 2 weeks during warm months. Ensure mix is kept slightly moist at all times. Once seedlings have 3 to 4 leaves, it is safe to pot up to single 3 or 4 inch dia., plant pots. Next image shows seedlings potted up in 3inch dia., tube pots in spring, using a course orchid mix + time release fertilizer, which is kept moist daily till seedlings are up to 20 to 30cm tall. After which they can be put into larger post with minimal problems. Compost: Have found from experience Worsleya do best in an open humus compost like Cymbidium orchid compost or quality compost with polystyrene or Perlite added at a ration of 3 parts potting mix 1 part polystyrene or perlite, this means the mix will have good aeration to the roots as well as good water holding capacity. Many other compost will work fine though open mixes with composted pine bark + course sand & ph = approx 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acid mix), are preferred. Worsleya also grow ok in well drained soils, though would suggest you add lots of course river sand & ensure the soil is well draining as these plants love water though not to sit in it. Also mulch (well composted) the plants well to keep roots cool as well as feeding during warm months i.e. chicken manure is ok or time release fertilizer every 3-4 months. My climate is warm temperate thought am in a valley which gets frosts in winter for approx. 2 weeks with temperatures down to -3 oc at times though winter day temps., are around 25 oc Summer temps., up to 40 oc during day & down to 18 oc at night.
I have no problem if any one wishes to use any of my images or information (not web content), for their own use. Also circulation of this file is not a problem to me, as long as it is used in context & that is to act only as a guide, to help any one wanting to grow their own Worsleya proecera seedlings. Happy growing Allan Ladd