MOUNTAIN GARDENER. County s Extension Newsletter for Home Lawn & Garden Enthusiasts

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MOUNTAIN GARDENER County s Extension Newsletter for Home Lawn & Garden Enthusiasts Buncombe County Center, 94 Coxe Ave. Asheville, NC 28801-3620 June 2014 HELPING GARDENERS PUT KNOWLEDGE TO WORK - June Garden Chores, p.2 - E-News, Bagworms, Don t Forget The Sunflowers Blossom End Rot, p. 3 - Leyland Cypress, Whether you are looking for something to cut for the dining table or exhibit at the Mountain State Fair or simply have cheerful color in the garden it s not to late to sow annual sunflowers. Stagger sowings over 5 to 6 weeks to keep enjoying continuous blooms. Give plants plenty of room, especially for low-growing varieties that will branch out 2-3 feet depending on the variety. Food Prep. Class, p. 4 - Plant Now for Mtn. State Fair, Floral Design Workshop, p. 5 - Events, p. 6 Buncombe County Center 94 Coxe Avenue Asheville, NC 28801 828-255-5522 (Phone) 828-255-5202 (Fax) The towering Mammoth variety is the traditional giant sunflower and excellent for seeds. Autumn Beauty has 6-inch flowers in shades of yellow, bronze, and mahogany on branching stems up to 7 feet tall. Sunbeam is a van Gogh sunflower that grows on a 5-foot plant with 5-inch flowers that don t shed pollen great for the flower vase. Teddy Bear is great for containers. It reaches 2 to 3 feet tall with yellow double long lasting flowers. There are a number of perennial sunflowers on the market too, several of which are native species such as the willow sunflower. They are very easy to grow, deer resistant, have good fragrance and are great plants for bees, butterflies and other nectar feeders. http://buncombe.ces.ncsu.edu email to: Alison.arnold@ncsu.edu Normal June Weather Weather Averages For Asheville, North Carolina Normal June Average High Normal June Average Low Normal June Precipitation 81.3o 59.6o 4.67 Hours of Daylight for Asheville, NC June 1 June 30 Sunrise Sunset 6 16am 6:18am 8:40pm 8:50pm

Page 2 Mountain Gardener June Garden Chores Lawns Maintain the mowing height for fescue lawns at 3 inches. Try to mow frequently enough to remove no more than 1/3 of the blade at a time. Do not fertilize cool season lawns until September. Regular rainy weather will produce good conditions for brown patch, a fungus disease. If brown patches begin to occur do not irrigate and do not mow the lawn when wet. Ornamentals Irises and daylilies can be divided even while in bloom. This is useful if you need to keep flower colors separated. Remove any remaining flowers, cut leaves half way back and replant the division as soon as possible. Prune out dieback from hybrid rhododendron, azaleas, mountain laurel and blueberry. Anytime is a good time to prune dead wood from trees and shrubs. Pinch chrysanthemums to encourage more blooms and stockier, bushier plants. Remember to check new plantings through the summer. Without rain trees and shrubs will need a good soaking every week through the first growing season. Herbaceous perennials will need regular watering at least for the first couple of months. You can still plant seeds for fast maturing annuals such as cosmos, zinnias, marigolds and small sunflowers. If you have moved houseplants outside for the summer, this is a good time to repot if you have not done so. Also remember to monitor the soil moisture as plants will dry out faster outside. Check hanging baskets daily for water, especially those that are exposed to the sun or winds. Plastic containers will dry out slower than those with coconut liners. Remove faded flowers from purple coneflower, rubeckia, phlox, shasta daisy etc. to encourage a second show. Fruits Stay on top of brown rot on peaches and plums, and black rot on grapes. Maintain regular fungicide sprays as a preventative as these diseases cannot be controlled once they have infected the fruit. This is a good time to remove excess sucker and water sprout growth from apple trees. Removing the excessively vigorous growth now will allow more of the plant s energy to go into fruit and desirable growth, and will result in less re-sprouting than winter pruning. A healthy strawberry bed can be renovated after harvest. Beds more than 3 to 4 years old are often best removed and replanted in the fall or spring. Vegetables Vegetable crops generally need another dose of fertilizer about 5 to 6 weeks after planting, or when fruit starts to form. Check fruiting vegetables like cucumbers, squash and green beans that are beginning to fruit daily to help keep plants producing. They also mature quickly and are best harvested while young and tender. Watch for dark brown spots on tomato leaves. This could be early blight and can be prevented with a fungicide spray. Water the garden early in the day to allow the foliage to dry before nightfall. Use 2 hands to pull beans, cucumbers, squash, etc. to avoid breaking the plant. There is still time to plant tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, green beans and winter squash.

Page 3 Mountain Gardener Sign Up for E-News Here is an opportunity to sign up for notices of coming events offered by Buncombe County s Extension Master Gardener Volunteers. Extension Master Gardener Volunteers are trained by NC Cooperative Extension to assist with providing educational information to area citizens. If you would like to be included in monthly email updates of coming educational opportunities offered by Maser Gardeners, you can sign up by sending an email with ADD in the subject line to www.buncombemastergardener@gmail.com. Please note that this address is only for E-News. Are Bagworms Active in Asheville? From: Adam G. Dale, Graduate Student and Steve Frank, Department of Entomology Since entomologiests at NCSU have noted bagworms hatching in Raleigh, Buncombe County gardeners can be on the lookout for these tiny caterpillars with tiny upright bags anywhere bags may have been left from last year. Bagworms feed on plant foliage and can cause a significant amount of damage in a relatively short period of time. Although they mostly prefer conifers junipers, Leyland cypress - they also infest maple, sycamore, oak, poplar and apple. The early caterpillar stage produces a silk bag on their posterior end that gradually collects plant tissue debris from them feeding. This creates a leafy bag that camouflages them and makes control difficult and/or time consuming. One of the most effective treatments is handpicking or cutting the female pupae bags from off the branches. Bagworms don t move much during their lifetime and so they are commonly found in dense populations within the same tree. These dense populations have the potential to kill conifers within one to two seasons due to defoliation. There are chemical control options available that should be applied during the early stages of the caterpillars, typically during June and early July. As with many other pest insects, bagworms are susceptible to predation from parasitoids and birds that can also assist in their control. If you ve had bagworms in the past or have evergreens in your garden now is the time to look closely at your plants and take action against them. Beware Blossom End Rot Blossom-end rot is a fruit disorder that causes the blossom end of tomato, pepper and watermelon fruit to rot. The first symptom is a slight water-soaked area on or near the blossom end of the fruit. The affected area soon darkens and enlarges in a constantly widening circle and develops a tough, leathery feel. It is usually worse on the first fruit cluster but can be a problem throughout the season. It occurs when there are extremes in soil moisture resulting in calcium deficiency in the fruit. When rain or irrigation follows a dry spell, the roots cannot take up calcium fast enough to keep up with rapid fruit development. Blossom end rot also occurs if the delicate feeder roots are damaged during transplanting or by deep soil cultivation near the plants. Prevention tips: Water regularly or mulch to keep moisture levels consistent. Maintain soil ph 6 6.5 and adequate calcium levels using dolomitic lime. Avoid the temptation to apply too much fertilizer. This inhibits calcium uptake.

Page 4 June 2014 What s Wrong with My..Leyland Cypress and Juniper? A lot of calls regarding Juniper and Leyland Cypress problems have come into the Extension office these past few weeks. Symptoms are all over the map and include browning and dieback of branch tips, interior foliage, entire branches and even entire trees. What s the cause? For junipers the most likely candidate is Kabatina Tip Blight, a fungal disease that causes the last several inches of the affected twigs to turn brown and die. Leyland cypress problems are most likely disease related and could be one of several Kabatina Tip Blight, Seridium Canker or Cercospora Leaf Blight. Although there are an additional 3 diseases and 8 insect pests known to be problematic with Leyland Cypress alone. Why now? There are a number of possibilities why these symptoms are showing up now. Stressful environmental conditions, created by an extremely wet summer last year followed by an extremely cold winter this year, can make roots and plants susceptible to infection. Monoculture plantings provide a feasting ground for diseases and pests allowing them to develop and spread rapidly in a short amount of time. In addition when a full sun plant that grows 100 tall and a least 20 wide is planted 3 apart in a hedge planting, for quick fill and screening, the combination of shaded foliage and reduced air circulation creates prime conditions for disease and foliage death. Finally it s important to consider the plant itself. As we know Leyland Cypress has a number of pest problems that have become apparent over time. It s hardiness zone rating is 5-9 or 6-10 depending on the source and it s a hybrid of two Pacific Coast species, Monterey cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa) and Alaska-cedar (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis). Given our high humidity, heavy clay and varying winter and summer temperatures is it reasonable to expect this plant to be long-lived (more than 10-15 years?) and tough as nails? The answer is probably not. At this point the best treatment is to prune out diseased material during a dry period to prevent spread of the disease and destroy them. Select disease resistant varieties going forward and avoid shearing or heavy pruning during wet periods and spring and fall months. Provide adequate spacing of plants to provide good circulation and groups of large numbers and instead use a variety of plants to create diversity. For more information refer to the following publications: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/o&t/specificplants/note133a/note133a.html. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/notes/oldnotes/od15.htm#twig. Food Preservation and Hands-on Classes Preserving and canning the summertime bounty now can provide welcome additions to the pantry come winter. In order to learn safe techniques make plans to attend one or all of the following sessions. Food Preservation Made Easy Wednesday June 18, 2014 5:30pm to 9:00pm The latest researched based information will be shared about canning low and high acid foods, freezing and dehydrating. Cost $5 Let s Start with Jams! Friday June 20, 2014 10am to 1pm This hands-on class is about making jams with and without added pectin. Cost $10 It s Pickling Time! Thursday, July 10, 2014-10am to 1pm This class will discuss how to make simple dill pickles, relishes and other pickled products. Cost $10 Canning Beans Safely! Monday, July 21, 2014-10am to 3pm Beans can be risky to eat if not canned safely. Learn the latest recommendations for canning. This class will cover using weighted and gauge pressure canners as well as discuss the importance of adjusting time for canning at higher altitudes. Cost $10 Putting Tomatoes By! Saturday, August 2, 2014-1pm to 5pm One of the best foods for learning how to can is tomatoes. In this hands-on class we cover canning tomatoes with a water bath canner and a pressure canner. Because we cover both methods of canning, this class allows you to experience both techniques. We will also discuss freezing and dehydrating tomatoes as other options for preserving them for future use. Cost $10. -Pre-registration for each session is required and registration is confirmed when payment is received. -Classes will be held at the Buncombe County Cooperative Extension Office, 94 Coxe Ave. Asheville. Call our office to register or for more information. (828) 255-5522.

Page 5 Mountain Gardener Plant Now for Mountain State Fair Entries Sow seeds now and make plans to enter the Standard Flower Show (Sept. 3) or the Flower and Garden Show (Sept. 9) at the North Carolina Mountain State Fair September 5-14 th. Buncombe County Master Gardeners sponsor these shows and encourage amateur gardeners of all ages to enter the competition. Cash premiums are presented for Blue, Red and White Ribbons. Best of Show and/or the Judge s Choice can also be awarded. The exhibitor must grow all the plant material. Container grown plants must be established in the container for at least 3 months. Artificial and silk flowers are not permitted as well as any endangered species or extremely invasive plants such as Oriental Bittersweet. Complete set of rules for submitting entries and other useful information can be found online at: www.mountainfair.org. Go to Mountain State Fair and then competitions to find exhibitor rules and entry forms. Find Flower and Garden under Department M. Entry forms must be received by August 22, 2014. Entry forms just show your intent to enter and may be emailed. Standard Flower Show sample categories include: Cut Annuals Cut Perennials Dahlias Cut Foliage (no blooms or seedheads) Herbs Flowering or Berried Shrubs and Trees Ornamental Grasses Cut Roses Hanging Plants Container grown Plants Wreaths (by hand) Design and Arrangements Floral Design Workshop for Mountain State Fair A floral design workshop will be given by Buncombe County Extension Master Gardeners with floral design experience on July 8 th, 9:30 11:30am at the WNC Ag Center, Gate 5, at the Pony Express Café. This demonstration is open to the public and allows amateur gardeners to learn basic floral design in preparation for submitting floral design entries at the 2014 Mountain State Fair flower shows. Participants must bring their own tools and supplies, along with their containers and flowers-either from their gardens or purchased. Space is limited. Please RSVP by contacting Joyce Plemmons at 828-255-5522 or joyce_plemmons@ncsu.edu.

EVENTS June 7 - June 14 & 28 - June 17 - June 21 - City Tailgate Market, 8:30am 12:30pm, info table, 161 S. Charlotte St., Asheville Plant Clinic, and Compost Demo., WNC Farmer s Market, 11am-2pm. Gardening in the Mountains, Evergreen Shrubs, Ext. Office, 94 Coxe Ave. Asheville 10am and 5:30pm, pre-register, Free. North Asheville Tailgate Market, UNCA Campus, Info table, 8:00am 12noon Newsletter compiled and edited by: Alison Arnold Extension Agent, Agriculture Urban Horticulture Persons with disabilities and persons with limited English proficiency may request accommodations to participate in activities mentioned in this newsletter. Please contact 828-255-5522 during business hours at least 3 days prior to the event. Recommendations for the use of agricultural chemicals are included in this publication as a convenience to the reader. The use of brand names and any mention or listing of commercial products or services in this publication does not imply endorsement by North Carolina Cooperative Extension nor discrimination against similar products or services not mentioned. Individuals who use agricultural chemicals are responsible for ensuring that the intended use complies with current regulations and conforms to the product label. Be sure to obtain current information about usage regulations and examine a current product label before applying any chemical. For assistance, contact your county Cooperative Extension agent.