Volume HOWARD DOUGHMAN, MBA H O W T O G E T R I D O F B L A C K M O L D

Transcription

1 Volume 5 HOWARD DOUGHMAN, MBA H O W T O G E T R I D O F B L A C K M O L D

2 How To Get Rid Of Black Mold Howard Doughman 3202 Chelmsford Drive Spring Grove, IL Phone Spring Grove, Illinois

3 Table of Contents Introduction... 1 Mold on Food... 2 Wheat or white bread - What grows mold faster?...2 Pictures of mold on food:...3 Mold in the Home... 4 Removing mold and mildew in showers...21 Removing mold from a crawlspace...22 The cost to remove mold from a home Removing mold from wooden furniture Residential mold inspection...25 Removing mold smells and odors...26 Mold on Home How to remove mold from siding Remove Mold from Appliances Furnace duct work and mold problems...31 Refrigerators and mold...32 Remove mold from automobiles Mold Removal Equipment and Supplies What to use to remove mold...34 Borax to Kill Mold...35 Bleach to Kill Mold...36 Appliances that Kill Mold...36 Personal Protective Equipment for Mold Removal...37 The Ultimate DIY Crawl Space, Attic, Basement Mold Annihilator...38 Mold, Mildew and Allergies Air Quality Limits and Mold Spores...43 What Does Toxic Mold Look Like?...44 Rain and Mold Allergies...44 Mold Exposure Treatment...44 Doctors that Treat Mold Exposures...45

4 Black Mold Scientific Name for Black Mold...46 Home Solutions to get rid of Black Mold...46 Mold and Selling Your Home The End... 52

5 Introduction Healthier and Mold Free Living Thank you for visiting and acquiring this ebook. The solutions that you will find within have all been tested, they've been second checked through professionals, and I have personally used them myself. The bottom line is that they work. How to Get Rid of Black Mold has been updated every year since 2006 and this 2011 edition (Volume 5) will be the last update unless there is a significant breakthrough in fighting mold problems. Therefore, please realize that this publication is under Copyright and not to be duplicated, spun, or re-written in anyway without prior written consent. As a purchaser of this book, you are entitled to call or with any questions regarding your specific mold problem. To date, I have coached hundreds on eliminating their mold problems and at times I have attorneys referring their clients to me to help close a real estate deal when there is a mold issue holding up the process. All you will be asked to do is identify yourself by the you used to purchase the book. Enjoy a healthier, mold free, life! 1

6 Mold on Food What causes bread to mold? Mold spores are microscopic and all around us. When they land on bread, the bread gets moldy due to its moisture, starch, and sugar content. The more moist the bread, the better mold will grow. Mold also feeds on the starch and sugar in bread. When there is more food available, there is more mold growth. Mold growth is fairly rapid in warm temperatures. It is slowed when placed in a refrigerator and it is stopped when frozen. Because bread is made differently with ingredients and preservatives, there isn't a solid answer to what type of bread may mold faster. Wheat or white bread - What grows mold faster? There are too many variables to accurately say one type of bread molds faster than another type. As mentioned, there are different ingredients in bread and different amounts of those ingredients. Also, the use of preservatives will affect the speed with which mold will grow on bread. It is probably safe to say that fresh baked bread with no preservatives added, will mold more quickly than bread that has preservatives in it. 2

7 Pictures of mold on food: Cheese Electron Microscope Mold on Cheese Fruits Fruit Mold Fruit Mold Bread Bread Mold Bread Mold Bread Mold 3

8 Mold in the Home What are mold, mildew and fungus? Within any building there can be over 400 species of mold fungi. Mold is a fungus. Mold upon any textile (cloth) is called mildew. The purpose of mold fungus is to break down organic matter in the ecosystem. When you think about buildings, there is a lot of organic matter in their construction. Wood, plaster board, carpet, and other common items are made of organic matter and it is mold's job to decompose it. Some types of mold fungus produce very toxic products called mycotoxins. Different mycotoxins like aflatoxin (Aspergillus Flavus), ochratoxins (Aspergillus ochraceus), rubratoxins (Penicillium Rubrum), or strachybotrytoxins (Strachybotrys Chartarum - Black Mold) may cause death. Toxinogenic fungi are abundant in many living spaces and basements of both old and new homes. An overabundance of these mycotoxins can result in sick building syndrome and cause inhabitants to be constantly ill. Prolonged exposure brings the worst of these potential ailments. [Microbiological threat from buildings and rooms and its influence on human health (sick building syndrome), Ochmanski W, Barabasz W. Przegl Lek. 2000;57(7-8):419-23]. Don't be overly alarmed because these substances have been around us forever. The incidence of increased mold growth and even sick building syndrome stems from a basic change in building techniques that came along in the 1970's. The effort to make our homes more energy efficient has led to buildings that don't ventilate well. Old homes leak air almost as if screen doors are left open. That action creates more air exchanges within our homes. It also evaporates moisture more readily. With the creation of air tight homes, that ventilation action doesn't exist. This gives mold spores the opportunity to land on objects, to keep growing, and to keep reproducing within the home instead of being vented outside. It makes sense when you think it through because there is less ventilation, the mold reproduces and the spore counts keep rising! 4

9 Mold spores are all around you all the time. They are microscopic and can't be seen with the naked eye. When they land on a moist surface in your home, they can begin reproducing within hours. That's why it is important to wipe up moisture as soon as possible. It is important to keep indoor humidity below 60% and it is important to repair leaks in the house. When leaking pipes or a leaking roof are left unrepaired for a long time, mold flourishes. When mold flourishes, it can cause problems when it is disturbed, meaning the spores become air borne and you could inhale too much. One of my customers was involved with a huge mold problem caused by the three year old furnace leaking into the crawl space. Look at this story (JB is an alias): I received an from a customer who wanted to know if I was "for real" because so many things on the Internet are not quite what they seem. We sent messages back and forth a few times and JB acquired "How to Get Rid of Black Mold". We had discussed a new mold killer that is available to the general public which has been used by the US Military since Desert Storm. JB was very enthusiastic because of being so sick for a long period of time. JB was extremely interested in pursuing and here's why: ( from JB regarding problems:)... My health since Sept 1st: severe fatigue swollen lymph glands in the neck and axillary areas lack of appetite/chronic pancreatitis/gastro distress/weight loss 'cold sores' on lips and inside the mouth (covering both upper and lower lip) bleeding gums dry itchy eyes inner ear soreness dizziness ringing in ears excessive thirst hair falling out dry, thin skin sore throat 5

10 joint pain headaches/ocular [sic] migraines dry cough during day excessive sinus discharge after waking excessive throat discharge after waking shortness of breath forgetfulness/memory loss waking up clearing throat warm flashes in evening digital oral temperature 95.7 to 97.1 chills during the day heart palpitations... JB was very ill in other words. I took this list from JB's because the rest of the two or three pages go into rather shocking and explicit details that would be difficult to read about. JB's immune system is shot if you read between the lines. I am not a doctor by any means and I am not saying that "How to Get Rid of Black Mold" will solve these types of problems for you, but the more you know the better off you are. After JB initiated three of the strategies outlined in "How to Get Rid of Black Mold", I received more . As to my house: the [solutions] have knocked inside mold down to 70% and declining rapidly. I'm just floored but can now stay in the house without going anaphalictic [sic] as I was. Still having some digestive issues but slowly recovering. After an overnight at Swedish, we pushed saline a little too fast but it forced me to cough some of the (possible) mold in my lungs out, essentially it looks like what is called "Farmers Lung" which would make sense. It will take time to heal overall. After I unpack more stuff (throwing away what was destroyed by mold) we will [solution] again with a heavier concentration in the attic, crawl space and outside around all openings to the house. That should really kick any mold growth areas in the teeth. The reference above to 'anaphalictic' [anaphylactic] is best described with an I received from JB immediately after ordering "How to Get Rid of Black Mold", but prior to obtaining the mold killer that JB claimed to be buying immediately: Just got back from the ER, my tongue began to swell and show signs of "thrush" by 7PM our time (anaphlaxis) [sic]. Because I put on a mask in the waiting area to protect myself from other incoming 6

11 patients infections, hospital staff mistook that for me being infectious so the wait to clear a secure room was almost 4 hours. By that time my tongue had reduced in swelling greatly but knowing most doctors may dismiss "mold sickness", I did mention unless a toxicologist did specific tests we would not be able to determine the cause but please, treat the symptoms for now if there was such a thing. Sometimes you have to go in armed with a disclaimer to allow them to work outside the box. Benadryl, Nystatin [sic] Oral, inform my family doctor "suspect mold reaction" was discharge. I think we can all work with that. I received the message above at 3:00 AM! JB was very serious about not wasting time and beginning the various techniques to rid the home of mold. JB has kept in touch with me via and telephone since our first interactions. JB lives on the west coast and in an area prone to mold issues. JB has been fighting the medical profession a great deal to get them to understand that her troubles were/are mold related. JB was so sick that mold was growing on the skin. A dermatologist took scrapings and verified that mold was growing. JB used the hand sanitizer that I recommend and those areas turned black for 10 minutes and then their natural color came back. JB actually had a follow up meeting with the same dermatologist that evening and took the hand sanitizer to him. JB had a spot on the leg and demonstrated what happened to the hands earlier. The dermatologist was impressed. He did a skin scraping and verified NO MOLD. This mold solution is NOT FDA approved! It did work for JB. One more excerpt from JB's communications which is the most recent:... I'd never had dandruff my entire life until April this year then I began losing hair. So I got to thinking about [solution], hair, my feet and skin where I'd used it (and it worked) then stumbled on this from the Mayo Clinic: "The good news is that dandruff can usually be controlled. Mild cases of dandruff may need nothing more than daily shampooing with a gentle 7

12 cleanser. And stubborn flakes often respond to medicated shampoos. What's more, researchers have identified a yeast-like fungus that may cause or aggravate dandruff, a discovery that may lead to better treatments." Hello. We have a winner... In other words a very dramatic occurrence in her life. JB is doing well now. The miracle was this ebook and a very effective mold remover. How to remove and destroy mold in the household. The table below is a breakdown of how to get rid of mold within your home. It is put together by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Keep in mind this table *is for clean water, not dirty water or flood water. Guidelines for Remediating Building Materials with Mold Growth Caused by Clean Water* SMALL AREA - Less Than 10 square feet (ft 2 ) Material or Furnishing Books & Papers Carpet and backing Cleanup Method High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in wellsealed plastic bags. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative for carpets and some upholstered furniture. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly Personal Protective Equipment Minimum: N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles Minimum: N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles Containment None required None required 8

13 Concrete or cinder block Hard surface, porous flooring (linoleum, ceramic tile, vinyl) Non-porous, hard surfaces (plastics, metals) dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in wellsealed plastic bags. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative. Damp-wipe surfaces with plain water or with water and detergent solution (except wood use wood floor cleaner); scrub as needed. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Wet vacuum. Steam cleaning may be an alternative. Dampwipe surfaces with plain water or with water and detergent solution; scrub as needed. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly 9 Minimum: N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles Minimum: N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles Minimum: N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles None required None required None required

14 Upholstered furniture & drapes Wallboard (drywall and gypsum board) Wood surfaces dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in wellsealed plastic bags. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative for carpets and some upholstered furniture. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in wellsealed plastic bags. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in wellsealed plastic bags. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative. Damp-wipe surfaces with plain water or with water and detergent solution (except wood use wood floor cleaner); scrub as needed. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Minimum: N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles Minimum: N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles Minimum: N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles None required None required None required 10

15 MEDIUM AREA - Between 10 and 100 (ft 2 ) Material or Furnishing Books & Papers Carpet and backing Cleanup Method High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative for carpets and some upholstered furniture. Highefficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic Personal Protective Equipment Limited or Full: Use common sense, consider potential for personal exposure and size of contaminated area N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. Limited or Full: Use common sense, consider potential for personal exposure and size of contaminated area N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. Containment Limited: Use common sense, consider potential for personal exposure and size of contaminated area. Limited: Use common sense, consider potential for personal exposure and size of contaminated area turn off HVAC and seal off air intakes. 11

16 Concrete or cinder block Hard surface, porous flooring (linoleum, ceramic tile, vinyl) bags. Discard or remove waterdamaged materials and seal in plastic bags while inside of containment, if present. Dispose of as normal waste. HEPA vacuum area after it is dried. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative. Highefficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an Limited or Full: Use common sense, consider potential for personal exposure and size of contaminated area N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. Limited or Full: Use common sense, consider potential for personal exposure and size of contaminated area N-95 respirator, Limited: Use common sense, consider potential for personal exposure and size of contaminated area turn off HVAC and cover air intakes. Plastic sheeting can be used to contain the area. Limited: Use common sense, consider potential for personal exposure and size of contaminated area turn off HVAC and seal off intakes. 12

17 Non-porous, hard surfaces (plastics, metals) Upholstered furniture & drapes alternative. Dampwipe surfaces with plain water or with water and detergent solution (except wood use wood floor cleaner); scrub as needed. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Wet vacuum. Steam cleaning may be an alternative. Dampwipe surfaces with plain water or with water and detergent solution; scrub as needed. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. Limited or Full: Use common sense, consider potential for personal exposure and size of contaminated area N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. Limited or Full: Use common sense, consider potential for Limited: Use common sense, consider potential for personal exposure and size of contaminated area, turn off HVAC and seal air intakes. Limited: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator/occupant exposure and size of 13

18 Wallboard (drywall and gypsum board) will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative for carpets and some upholstered furniture. Highefficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Discard or remove waterdamaged materials and seal in plastic bags while inside of containment, if present. Dispose of as normal waste. HEPA vacuum area after it is dried. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Discard or remove waterdamaged materials and seal in plastic remediator exposure and size of contaminated area N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. Limited or Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator exposure and size of contaminated area N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. contaminated area turn off HVAC and seal air intakes. Limited: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator/occupant exposure and size of contaminated area turn off HVAC and seal air intakes. 14

19 Wood surfaces bags while inside of containment, if present. Dispose of as normal waste. HEPA vacuum area after it is dried. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative for carpets and some upholstered furniture. Dampwipe surfaces with plain water or with water and detergent solution (except wood use wood floor cleaner); scrub as needed. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Limited or Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator exposure and size of contaminated area N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. Limited: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator/occupant exposure and size of contaminated area, turn of HVAC and seal air intakes. LARGE AREA- Greater Than 100 (ft 2 ) or Potential for Increased Occupant or Remediator Exposure During Remediation Estimated to be Significant Material or Cleanup Method Personal Protective Containment 15

20 Furnishing Books and papers Carpet and backing High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative for carpets and some upholstered furniture. Highefficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Discard or remove waterdamaged materials Equipment Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator/occupant exposure and size of contaminated area, N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator/occupant exposure and size of contaminated area, N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator exposure and size of contaminated area turn off HVAC, seal air intakes and use plastic barriers as necessary. Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator exposure and size of contaminated area turn off HVAC, seal air intakes, and use plastic barriers to keep airborne elements contained. 16

21 Concrete or cinder block Hard surface, porous flooring (linoleum, ceramic tile, vinyl) and seal in plastic bags while inside of containment, if present. Dispose of as normal waste. HEPA vacuum area after it is dried. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative. Highefficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative for carpets and some upholstered Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator/occupant exposure and size of contaminated area, N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator/occupant exposure and size of contaminated area, N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator exposure and size of contaminated area turn off HVAC, seal air intakes, and use plastic barriers to keep airborne elements contained. Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator exposure and size of contaminated area turn off HVAC, seal air intakes, and use plastic barriers to 17

22 Non-porous, hard surfaces (plastics, metals) furniture. Dampwipe surfaces with plain water or with water and detergent solution (except wood use wood floor cleaner); scrub as needed. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Discard or remove waterdamaged materials and seal in plastic bags while inside of containment, if present. Dispose of as normal waste. HEPA vacuum area after it is dried. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative for carpets and some upholstered furniture. Dampwipe surfaces with Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator/occupant exposure and size of contaminated area, N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. keep airborne elements contained. Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator exposure and size of contaminated area turn off HVAC, seal air intakes, and use plastic barriers to keep airborne elements 18

23 Upholstered furniture & drapes plain water or with water and detergent solution; scrub as needed. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative for carpets and some upholstered furniture. Dampwipe surfaces with plain water or with water and detergent solution (except wood use wood floor cleaner); scrub as needed. Discard or remove water-damaged materials and seal in plastic bags while inside of containment, if present. Dispose of Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator/occupant exposure and size of contaminated area, N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. contained. Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator exposure and size of contaminated area turn off HVAC, seal air intakes, and use plastic barriers to keep airborne elements contained. 19

24 Wallboard (drywall and gypsum board) Wood surfaces as normal waste. HEPA vacuum area after it is dried. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Discard or remove waterdamaged materials and seal in plastic bags while inside of containment, if present. Dispose of as normal waste. HEPA vacuum area after it is dried. Wet vacuum (in the case of porous materials, some mold spores/fragments will remain in the material but will not grow if the material is completely dried). Steam cleaning may be an alternative for carpets and some upholstered furniture. Dampwipe surfaces with plain water or with water and detergent solution (except wood use wood floor cleaner); Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator/occupant exposure and size of contaminated area, N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator/occupant exposure and size of contaminated area, N-95 respirator, gloves, and goggles will ensure safety. Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator exposure and size of contaminated area turn off HVAC, seal air intakes, and use plastic barriers to keep airborne elements contained. Full: Use common sense, consider potential for remediator exposure and size of contaminated area turn off HVAC, seal air intakes, and use plastic barriers to keep airborne elements contained. 20

25 scrub as needed. High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum after the material has been thoroughly dried. Dispose of the contents of the HEPA vacuum in well-sealed plastic bags. Discard or remove waterdamaged materials and seal in plastic bags while inside of containment, if present. Dispose of as normal waste. HEPA vacuum area after it is dried. The above table was taken from the U.S. EPA s site on cleaning up mold. It was not an easy fit into this ebook format, so you can always check it out on the EPA s site. Removing mold and mildew in showers. To the left is an electron microscope photo of mold found in the shower. Showers can be cleaned as a hard non-porous surface indicated in the chart above. For shower curtains the best way to get rid of the mildew and mold is to use bleach. Bleach can be a real problem for colors and for humans, so I recommend these mold removers. Also, ventilate the area or remove the curtain and take it outside where more fresh air is available. If it's a nice day, leaving the curtain in the sun will kill the mold and mildew after a couple hours of exposure. Then just wipe off the curtain with soap and water before taking it in the house. Cloth shower curtains should be handled in the sun, and if bleached, read the label. You don't want to ruin the color or the fabric. 21

26 For shower doors, surfaces, walls, ceilings you can use soap and water as suggested or kick it up a notch with some of the mold cleaners at the above link. The mold removers won't eliminate mold and mildew that has gotten into porous material, but it will kill what's showing. You just need to use common sense. Turn on the bathroom vent and maybe run a fan that pushes the air out of the bathroom. You don't want to be overcome by fumes. Use mold removers as you would any other cleaner. For grout and corners use an old toothbrush to get into those tough places. For really stubborn areas you may have to scrub, let stand, then scrub again several times before you succeed. Also open the shower doors and get the slide track. You can find surprising things there. If you're like me, you hate to run the air conditioning unless it is really hot. Well, what happens is that the toilet tank sweats and the area around the toilet gets wet. Either towel dry it once in a while to keep it clean, or expect mold to start growing. It is probable that there is growth around the back where it is hard to see and reach. When the shower is running make sure everyone turns on the vent to exhaust as much steam and moisture as possible. That will help keep the humidity down in the bathroom as well as the rest of the house. Removing mold from a crawlspace. Crawlspace areas are a little tricky. You have to find the source of moisture infiltration. It could be a leaking foundation, it could be sweating pipes, it could be just about anything. Once you have identified the water source, correct the problem. I'm not in the building trades, so you may want to consult someone who is, however, you can cover pipes with insulation, you can repair leaks in the foundation, and most likely any fluid invasion can be solved. When in doubt consult a professional. Now that the moisture source has been identified and eliminated, the best way to begin remediation is to set up a fan and air out the space. It is best if you can direct the stream of air in a way that doesn't send mold spores throughout your home. If possible use duct tape and plastic to create a floor to ceiling containment from the access to the crawl space to a window. That way you can pull fresh air in and all of the air current in the crawl space can only get out through the same window. Of 22

27 course, if possible, bring fresh air in through one window and exhaust it through a different one. If you have a difficult space, you could create a containment from the opening to the fan, exhausting the fan outdoors. Then using a length of dryer duct taped and secured through the plastic containment, put the other end outside to allow for outside fresh air to go in while the fan is creating a negative pressure effect. The whole idea is to protect your home from needless spore invasion. Creating a containment won't cost much and when you size up your specific situation, you will see the possibilities for supplying fresh air and exhausting the "bad" air outside. After a time, the mold and mildew will die. Then you need to clean it up. If you leave the dead mold within the crawl space there will still be ill effects from it. It may not grow but it still has the ability to affect your health. My customer mentioned above had a crawlspace infestation. We used moldicide products and ultra violet light. Ultra violet light will be discussed later when I explain how to build your own. Be sure to carefully read the chart above to determine the need for Personal Protective Equipment. Especially consider the N-95 respirator. You can get them at the hardware store and they are just a mask with a band. They aren't the gas mask looking kind. They remind you more of a surgical mask. Now that you have killed the mold and mildew, you need to inspect your home for damage. Look all through the space at the wood. If it looks bad get a professional in there to evaluate it for you. Also, if you have insulation that is contaminated, you should bag it in plastic bags and seal the bags, then remove them outside. If drywall has been damaged you may need to have a builder take a look at it. Use common sense again. This is your home and you don't want problems in the future so take care of it right. If there are pipes within the crawl space, you may want to insulate them. That will help protect you from condensation problems and another crawl space remediation project. Remember, mold, mildew, and fungus need moisture. They hate sunlight (I recommend installing your own UV-C light), lots of fresh air ventilation, and dry spaces. 23

28 The cost to remove mold from a home. You can expect a quoted price to run around $80 - $120 per hour. The difficult part is trying to estimate the time involved. Bigger jobs will take more equipment and protection. Smaller jobs will be less. I have searched all over the Internet and most remediation companies won't give pricing until they know more about your job. They basically collect information and formulate a quote. If you have extensive mold damage and cleanup, the bill is going to be higher. Mold remediation usually consists of determining that there is a problem, the quote and contract, then they don their protective gear, tear out all the drywall, use a moldicide to kill what they can, then they encapsulate the clean area to prevent airborne spores, then the drywall is replaced. That's why it is expensive. For smaller tasks, you can probably do the work yourself. I recommend that you read 'Mold Removal Equipment and Supplies' later in this ebook. It will outline the personal protective equipment that you will need and it will also discuss other protective techniques. Removing mold from wooden furniture. Mildew will continue to grow as long as the wood has a moisture content above 20 percent. Use mineral spirits on mildewed surfaces. Be sure to check underneath and inside. Solid wood furniture with a cloudy finish, flaking or missing finish, open joints, and even cracks and warped boards can be salvaged. The joints can be re-glued and warped boards can be straightened. Consult an experienced cabinetmaker. Special tools and skills will be needed. If you do not have the skills or the tools, get an estimate. Compare that with the cost of buying new furniture of comparable quality. If the veneer is loose in just a few places, it may be glued back by a cabinetmaker or skilled woodworker. 24

29 White spots or a cloudy film may develop on damp furniture that has not been submerged. To remove the white spots: If the entire surface is affected, rub with a damp cloth dipped in turpentine or in a solution of 1/2-cup household ammonia and 1/2-cup water. Wipe dry at once, and if the color is restored, polish with wax or furniture polish. If color is not restored, dip 000 steel wool in oil (boiled linseed, olive, mineral, or lemon). Rub lightly with the wood grain. Wipe with a soft cloth and re-wax if the color is restored. For deep spots, use a drop or two of ammonia on a damp cloth. Rub at once with a dry cloth. Rubbing cigarette ashes, powdered pumice, or a piece of walnut meat into spots may help remove them. If spots remain after all efforts to remove them, the piece should be stripped of the old finish and refinished. Residential mold inspection. A home inspection is an evaluation of a home s condition by a trained professional. The inspection is conducted with fairness and impartiality to all. A thorough written report within National Association of Home Inspectors, Inc. (NAHI) guidelines provides disclosure of visible defects and/or conditions that will affect the function of the home. Proper mold testing is a specialized service requiring special education, training and equipment (surface sampling, interior wall sampling, microscopes, etc.). Mold inspections and evaluations are best performed by professionally trained and licensed companies specializing in this area. In the NAHI standards section 2.4 General Limitations and Exclusions: Also excluded from a standard home inspection is the determination of the indoor air quality or sickness of any building including, but not limited to, the presence or absence of all manner of biological activity, such as molds, insects, birds, pets, mammals, and other flora and fauna, and their consequent physical damage, toxicity, odors, waste products and noxiousness. That means your air quality IS NOT evaluated. 25

30 As a rule of thumb, use $300 for every 2,000 square feet of home. You can also estimate about 15 cents per square foot for a home mold inspection. Sampling and other measurement services will probably cost more. Removing mold smells and odors. 1. Ventilate. Too much moisture is the cause of musty basements, and a couple of open windows at opposite ends of the area may provide adequate cross-ventilation to air out the smell. 2. Get rid of any mildewy carpet padding, and deep-clean your carpets. Set furniture outside in the sun to air out. 3. Mop or wash down concrete floors and walls with a solution of bleach and water (about 3/4 cup chlorine bleach to 1 gal. of water. Let the solution sit on the concrete surfaces for 5 minutes, then rinse and dry. 4. Check the drainage around your house. Porous basement walls may transmit moisture from the ground outside during rainy spells, and the trapped moisture increases the humidity in your basement. Make sure the ground slopes away from foundation walls, and that downspouts extend 6 feet or more from the house. 5. Waterproof the basement. Look for cracks in the walls and floor and seal them with hydraulic cement. Apply concrete waterproofing sealer where the floor meets the wall. 6. Buy and install a dehumidifier as a last resort to remove excess moisture. Tips: Use fans to aid ventilation. Place one in the center of the area to circulate air and one at an open window to serve as an exhaust. Warnings: Open windows when cleaning with bleach - fumes are harmful! Vinegar Helps with Smell Put dishes of vinegar in your storage area. At first the air may smell strongly of the vinegar, but after a day there will be no more musty smells at all. You can put little dishes in drawers also to get the musty smell out of them. 26

31 Kitty Litter is Helpful Try putting kitty litter in open containers in basements, closets, etc. Change as needed. It will help rid the area of musty smells. This also works in vacant, closed up houses. Charcoal Helps Keep Air Sweet For storage units, place an opened 5-lb. bag of charcoal inside. Change it every six months. The charcoal absorbs the odors and also the dampness in the air. Your furniture will still smell sweet when you remove it from storage. Coffee Grounds Takes Away Odors Use fresh coffee grounds to eradicate smells in closed areas. Using a fresh can of coffee, put a cup or two in a brown paper bag. Roll it up and staple it shut, in a day or so the grounds will absorb the smell. Then throw the bag away. After cleaning your refrigerator and freezer prior to a move, and going into storage, be sure each was thoroughly dried inside. Then take about 1-2 cups of fresh coffee grounds and place them in a brown paper bag (lunch size) and staple shut. This would be put on a refrigerator shelf and another in the freezer compartment. There will never be that stale "refrigerator" musty smell, but always a clean, fresh smell. This would probably work, as well in a storage unit, though you might have to place several sacks around the unit to get full coverage. 27

32 Mold on Home How to eliminate roof mold. You've noticed a dark dirty looking roof and want to clean it. Looking around in your neighborhood you see one house after the other with a black or green discoloration on the roof shingles (roof moss or roof algae). If left untreated it will eventually destroy the roofing material. First, you will need to clean the moss, algae or mold from your roof. A simple everyday solution is to mix water and bleach. Bleach is cheaper, but moldicide is stronger and much, much safer. An old spray bottle will work and for large jobs, one of those pressure sprayers used for the lawn that you pressurize by hand is the best. Second, use reasonable caution when doing any kind of work on roofs. Use ladders designed for this purpose and any other reasonable safety equipment. Get on the roof and spray the solution on it. This should do a good job of killing the mold on the roof. Then use a power washer at about 6 inches away from the shingles to remove the mold. When you first spray on the bleach / water or moldicide solution there will be some foaming. Don't step on the foamy roof because it will be slippery. I recommend spraying a small section, then using your power washer, spray it clean. Then move across the roof using the same process. I start near the top of the roof and work down. For the best results, completely saturate each row of shingles with the cleaning solution. Keep in mind to wear necessary protection for your eyes. A light wind will blow spray into your face. Also, wear clothes that don't matter because you will get the bleach spots on them. So use your own judgment and common sense. I do about three to four feet of vertical roof and work my way from top to bottom with the cleaning spray and then with the power washer. I carry the washer up the ladder and lay it down against the ladder on the 28

33 roof. As I move horizontally, I have a helper move the ladder while I hold the equipment and walk it over to the next section. I try to keep the area above the ladder dry to avoid any slipping. If you aren't experienced with roof work, be very careful. Wet roofs are slippery. You need to wear construction boots or flat gym shoes. You need a soft sole that will allow traction on the shingles. When moving on the roof you must pick up your feet so you will not scuff the shingles. Again, use your best judgment and common sense and get professional help if you need it. Third, this is the most time saving and cost effective step. Prevent the mold, moss, or fungus from ever coming back. You've probably just spent most the day cleaning the mold from your roof. If you don't do anything else at that point the mold will start growing after the next big rain washes away all the residual cleaner. To avoid this job once and for all we have a secret weapon! Install Z-Stop strips on each side of each peak of your roof. Apply the Z-Stop strip by butting it up against the ridge cap against both sides of all roof peaks. Apply Z-Stop below anything that blocks rain water flow such as chimneys, gables and skylights. Rain water must run over Z-Stop to become effective. For a roof that is the same length at the peak as at the bottom, measure the length and multiply by 2. This is how many feet you need. For a roof that is smaller at the peak than at the bottom, you will need to add additional length. You will have to install the strips out on the "wings" to make sure you get full coverage and no mold growth. Nail Z-Stop strip approximately every two feet with neoprene washered roofing nails (Z-Stop Nails included in each roll). In areas of severe moss, algae, mildew or fungus growth, several horizontal rows of Z-Stop application may be necessary to assure its effectiveness over the entire roof surface. Z-Stop will last for 20+ years and the mold will never come back. It will not harm animals or plantings, but it will stop algae, mold, and fungus from growing. Install it once and forget about it. Your roof stays beautiful and lasts years longer. 29

34 How to remove mold from siding. Mold on siding is a little bit different than the roof. The vertical surface may not hold the Z-Stop residue long enough to inhibit growth. However, it may be worth a try because Z-Stop is cheaper than mold resistant paint. Most recommend pressure spraying the siding to remove moss, mold, or fungus. However, you must consider that too much power will dent your aluminum siding, it will wear away brick mortar, it will destroy stucco, it will force water underneath, it may harm wood, and it may take the paint or finish off. Using a pressure washer used for spraying landscaping chemicals, (you manually pump it to create pressure), you can mix 30% bleach to 70% water and just spray it on. Allow it to stand for about 5 to 10 minutes then hose it off. For stubborn spots, use the same cleaning solution and a soft scrub brush. Start lightly and use common sense so you don't ruin the finish. Try to keep spray and splatter away from your shrubs and plantings. Just wet down the plants around the area first. Then spray on and clean off the cleaning solution and finally re-rinse down the plants again. When repainting look into using a mold and mildew resistant paint. It's rather expensive but it will keep your walls from growing. 30

35 Remove Mold from Appliances Air conditioner and the inevitable mold smell. The mildew / mold smell that hits you when you turn on your air conditioner is due to moisture within it that has allowed mold to grow inside. This could be the drip pan, it could be within the fins, or it could be that there is a drip into a corner that has mixed with old dirt and dust and allowed mold to take hold. The best way to eliminate the smell is to open the air conditioner and begin cleaning it. However, not everyone has the ability to take things apart. So, another way to kill the smell and begin eliminating the mold is to use a product known as T-2. It uses space age technology and light activation to kill mold and purify the air. You will spray T-2 on the outside air intake of your window air conditioner. This will allow the light to activate it and as your unit begins blowing, it will introduce T-2 into the inside of the unit. This will eliminate that odor. Furnace duct work and mold problems. Your heating and ventilation system is sometimes a good place for mold to grow and thrive. It can collect in the evaporation coils of your air conditioner and be spread through the air stream all through the house. Professional cleaning involves cutting access holes in your duct work and cleaning with a biocide to kill the mold and then they coat the surface with something that doesn't allow mold to grow. Keep in mind that the duct work is not the entire HVAC system. You must also think about the furnace area, the air conditioning coils, and other sources of moisture. The coils get wet from condensation and drip into a pan. The pan either drains or has a fan blowing on it to evaporate the moisture. If any part of this area doesn't dry up, then mold can grow there. So when you are all done cleaning your duct work, this source is still present and trying to spread through your system. Some furnaces don't have a built in bottom. They sit on your basement floor and that serves as the bottom. It could be possible, if your basement gets wet, that this area under the furnace grows mold. Then when you turn on the furnace, the mold spores are distributed through your clean system again. Take a look at those areas and remedy any moisture problems. 31

36 A fool proof way to eliminate mold from being blown all through your home is to install a UV-C light system in the furnace just as the air is being blown into the main duct. UV-C destroys mold, bacteria, viruses, and more. It has helped many allergies, sinus problems, reduced asthma conditions, reduced hay fever, which leads to easier, cleaner breathing. Our UV-C system installs in minutes, it has a template to aide in the installation, and will help keep your home mold free. Refrigerators and mold. Refrigerators can harbor many mold types. To keep your refrigerator fresh it is always a good idea to have an open box of baking soda. This absorbs the smells. To keep mold from growing in your refrigerator, keep it dry inside. Do your best to eliminate condensation within the compartments. When you spill something, get it clean and dry as soon as possible. To avoid condensation inside, try adjusting the temperature appropriately. If that doesn't work, then make sure your door seals are working properly. Clean the surface where the seals meet the refrigerator. Clean the seals too and make sure things hanging on the refrigerator aren't between the seals and the surface of the refrigerator. For old equipment, you can contact Sears to order new seals and install them yourself. This will prolong the life of the refrigerator for many more years. For storing refrigerators, or getting rid of smells that just won't go away, empty the unit. Unplug and clean the inside of the refrigerator and freezer. Then when dry you can put a few cups of freshly opened coffee grounds into a paper lunch sack. Staple it shut and place one inside both compartments. Close the doors and leave for a few days. After several days, or when pulling your refrigerator out of storage, remove and discard the paper sacks. Your refrigerator should smell nice and clean. 32

37 Remove mold from automobiles. It's 80 degrees outside and your car has been sitting in the sun all day. You get in and turn the A/C on full blast and then you are hit with that "stale" odor. That odor is due to mold and mildew within your air system. To eliminate it you can pull the condenser area apart and clean it. You can find an opening within the engine compartment to spray in various sprays available at your auto parts store. Or you can simply spray T-2 on the dashboard at the bottom of the windshield. This will activate T-2 with the sun. It will be immediately taken up into your air system and it will eliminate the odor completely. This is by far the easiest remedy. Other suggested methods have you turn off your A/C ten minutes before arriving to your destination and opening your vent to outside air. This will allow the damp areas to dry. Condensation will be evaporated and eliminate the moist area that mold needs to grow. 33

38 Mold Removal Equipment and Supplies What to use to remove mold. There are many mold removal products on the market. Many of them are bleach based or types of cleaners. I've used most of them. I buy generic bleach (5% hypochlorite) and mix it with water or use it straight. People have been using bleach for years to combat mold. The EPA warns against it. They don't want anyone to become overwhelmed by the fumes. Most products state to use them in well ventilated areas. You would certainly want to be careful with bleach when it comes to the fumes, splattering, etc. You must use your own common sense and judgment. If you have an extremely large area to clean, then be careful with bleach and limit your exposure. Maybe clean it in several sessions to avoid being over exposed to the fumes. Gloves are good protective gear as are goggles that don't have air vents. Gloves will protect your hands from the cleaning process and they will keep you from inadvertently getting mold under your nails and exposing yourself later. The goggles will keep chemicals from splashing in your eyes and will keep mold spores from entering too. In some instances wearing a mask is a good idea too. Just about any hardware store can supply an "N-95" rated mask. There are many styles and they aren't that expensive. With that said, I use moldicide products for extensive jobs which usually involve a large area or hard to reach spaces. At one time I specifically mentioned one product line because the master distributer contacted me and let me use the products. The products were outstanding! The problem is that the business went into bankruptcy. So now I have you go to my mold removers page on my main website. Periodically, I ll evaluate products and when I find good ones, I post them at that link. 34

39 Borax to Kill Mold This method of inhibiting mold is very good to use on areas where mold and mildew are growing but that you don t need to worry about paint being damaged. Make a thick borax and water paste. Smear it on the moldy area. Let it set until dry (overnight or longer). Sweep up the powder, and rinse off the rest. Washing the walls, wood, floors, etc. with a solution of 1-2 cups of (20 Mule Team) Borax in a gallon of hot water will probably be cheaper and more effective in the long run. Once the Borax soaks into the wood (wash/spray it to the point of run-off three times and let it dry each time before re-spraying) - the wood will never become infested with insects, mold, fungus, or mildew and you get an additional benefit the wood/material becomes fire-resistant. That is how they have protected cellulose insulation for many years. Be careful not to eat/ingest Borax because it is toxic. Be careful not to spray plants as they will also die. People do however, wash their baby diapers and other clothing in Borax. Mold and mildew can be tackled with a mix of borax and water - simply spray on and wipe off. If your shower is prone to mold, wash down with borax and do not rinse. The borax residue will fight mold growth. Make your own spot remover with 1/4 cup of borax dissolved in 2 cups of water. Sponge on stain and let dry, or pre-treat before washing. Good for blood, chocolate, mud, coffee, mildew and urine stains. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of Borax in a quart of warm water and use to wipe the refrigerator clean and deodorize it at the same time. This method of inhibiting mold is very good to use on areas where mold and mildew are growing but that you don t need to worry about paint being damaged. Make a thick borax and water paste. Smear it on the moldy area. Let it set until dry (overnight or longer). Sweep up the powder, and rinse off the rest. Washing the walls, wood, floors, etc. with a solution of 1-2 cups of (20 Mule Team) Borax in a gallon of hot water will probably be cheaper and more effective in the long run. Once the Borax soaks into the wood (wash/spray it to the point of run-off three times and let it dry each time before re-spraying) - the wood will never become infested with insects, mold, fungus, or mildew and you get an additional benefit the wood/material becomes fire-resistant. That is how they have protected 35

40 cellulose insulation for many years. Be careful not to eat/ingest Borax because it is toxic. Be careful not to spray plants as they will also die. People do however, wash their baby diapers and other clothing in Borax. Mold and mildew can be tackled with a mix of borax and water - simply spray on and wipe off. If your shower is prone to mold, wash down with borax and do not rinse. The borax residue will fight mold growth. Make your own spot remover with 1/4 cup of borax dissolved in 2 cups of water. Sponge on stain and let dry, or pre-treat before washing. Good for blood, chocolate, mud, coffee, mildew and urine stains. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of Borax in a quart of warm water and use to wipe the refrigerator clean and deodorize it at the same time. Bleach to Kill Mold Many caution against using bleach to clean and kill mold and mildew. It works, but the detractors don't like introducing the chlorine into the environment. Bleach has been used for years to solve these types of cleaning problems. Just use your own common sense and be safe. Try to avoid prolonged exposure to the fumes. Try to use it in a well-ventilated area. The bottom line is that bleach kills mold. I will caution that on ANY porous surface like wood it will not penetrate very deep. So you may think you've killed the mold, but you've only gotten the surface mold. It will come back. Appliances that Kill Mold Several appliances will kill mold. Ultraviolet light kills mold by sterilizing the spores. In fact, when these spores actually try to multiply, they destroy themselves. UV lights are used extensively in the food industry and in health care to sterilize. There are many appliances available on the market that will benefit you with this technology. By far the most beneficial appliance is a UV-C unit attached to the air duct from your furnace. This will sterilize the air as it is sent to the rest of your home. If positioned correctly the UV-C light will prevent mold 36

41 growth within the HVAC system. This will lead to you feeling better in general because your body is not fighting off as many allergens. I recommend this UV-C system for your whole house mold elimination effort. Personal Protective Equipment for Mold Removal Gloves Goggles - fully enclosed no vents N-95 rated mask Moldicide may require a carbon cartridge mask (about $30.00) Expendable clothing HEPA filter Plastic sheeting Duct tape Your gloves should be water proof and able to stand up to the work activity that you have in mind. If you're scrubbing, then you'll need a heavier glove. Goggles should completely enclose the eyes. This will keep spores and cleaning solution from entering. The mask should be rated "N-95" which means it will trap spores and will keep you from breathing them. You'll want one that fits snugly around your nose and mouth. Keep in mind that facial hair can interfere with the mask's effectiveness. For large mold clean-up use a "bunny" suite that you can throw away. These will keep you from spreading mold spores everywhere you travel. You would stay within your isolated area, remove them and put them into a sealed plastic bag. Then put on a new "bunny" suite when you return. A high efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filter will be used when you have a difficult mold removal project. You would use the unit in the work space to trap airborne spores. In health care, a plastic barrier is constructed using plastic sheeting. This enclosed area is then funneled into a HEPA filter with the filter's exhaust preferably being sent out a window. When replacing the unit's filter material precautions are needed to remain unexposed to the trapped spores. This information is available with the unit's instructions. 37

42 Plastic sheeting is used extensively in medium and large jobs. It is used to create a barrier between the infestation and the outer environment. This containment is made by creating a floor, walls, and ceiling with the plastic. The corners are sealed with duct tape. In big remediation efforts there is an entry chamber constructed that is protected with flaps to the outside, and then flaps to the inside of the chamber. This decontamination area is used to remove contaminated clothing, remove other contaminated items, and sometimes a small shower assembly is used to quickly rinse yourself off before exiting. Of course, the size and specific precautions are all dependent on the site and extent of the problem. NEW!! The Ultimate DIY Crawl Space, Attic, Basement Mold Annihilator The ultimate weapon is using Ultraviolet Light to eliminate mold. Ultraviolet or UV light is what the sun produces. We experience it as sun burn, so it is important that before constructing this device that you will ONLY USE IT WHERE NO ONE (including pets) WILL COME IN CONTACT WITH IT. I use a couple of these in my basement and I protect everyone by placing the lights on timers. They come on from Midnight to 5:00 AM and that is plenty of exposure time to eliminate mold. I first began using this technology when my wife and son would have allergy symptoms all year long. It was obvious that something within the house was probably causing the problems. It ended up being mold that grows in everyone's basement. Not only are basement walls and floors damp, but they're dusty too. These are perfect conditions for mold and the spores that cause all of us so many problems. 38