Transcription

1

2

3 Table of Contents Introduction 1 Reading Labels 2 Sorting 6 Stain Removal Techniques 8 Stain Removal Chart 10 Ready, Set, Wash 20 Soap and Detergent 22 Bleaches 24 Fabric Softeners 26 Starches 28 Drying Clothes 30

4 Introduction Ready, Set, Wash is a complete guide to laundry care. Laundering is a job often shared by the entire family and it is a chore that can be confusing at best. This guide is divided into ten chapters, with each section following a logical order for the laundering process. If you need additional assistance or information, contact the Home Economics Extension Agent with clothing and textiles responsibility in your county. éatwa W, Ellen Smoak, Clothing Specialist Family Education Program Editor Alton Franklin Artist Jacquelynn W. Sharpe _

5 Reading Labels A law went into effect in 1984 that establishes standardized terminology for the instructions for garment laundering and care. This legislation makes it possible for you to be fairly certain about what the manufacturer means by the laundering instructions on the label. If the label says machine wash, it means the garment may be washed in machines designed for home use or laundromats, and that no special precautions are necessary (unless there are additional instructions on the label). If the label says to wash the garment in warm water, the water temperature should be between 90 and 110 degrees. If the garment s label calls for it to be washed in cold water, then the water temperature should be less than 85 degrees. On machines that don t allow you to select temperature, the Delicate or Gentle cycles usually provide a cold wash. But if you re not familiar with the machine, check to make sure it s filling with cold water before you add clothes. Some labels specify that the gar ment be washed on the machine s delicate cycle or gentle cycle. In addition to cold water, these settings also offer slower agitation for a shorter period of time than the agitation on regular cycles. If a garment label says do not have commercially laundered, it means it should be washed in a home appliance or at a laundromat. Commercial laundries sometimes use strong de-

6 tergents and additives, and/or very hot water. The do not have commercially laundered label is an indication the fabric is not designed to withstand this. Sometimes the care instructions on the label call for the garment to be washed in a small load. Other special in structions to watch for are wash separatelt, wash inside out and wash with like colors. Some garment labels indicate durable press cycle or permanent press cycle. In addition to warm wash water, these cycles feature cooldown rinses and reduced spinning, to keep permanent press clothes from wrinkling. If you see rinse thoroughly on the label, then it s a good idea to run the washer through the final rinse cycle an additional time, if you re using a home unit and this is practical. If the label says no spin or do not spin, then take the garment out of the machine before it starts the final spin cycle. For some very delicate garments, the recommended care will be hand wash or damp wipe only. Do as in structed; don t use the washing machine. Another special instruction to watch for on delicate fabrics is no wring or twist. The label may say bleach when needed, which means you can use either oxygen or chlorine bleach. If it says no bleach or do not bleach, then wash according to instructions neither oxygen nor chlorine bleach should be used. Sometimes Clothing ' labels carry special instructions for drying. Among them are instructions for setting the dryer at low heat, medium heat and no heat. If the label says durable press or permanent press, put the dryer on the appropriate setting. Remove promptly means to get the Clothes out of the dryer as soon as dry, to prevent wrinkling. If the label says tumble drt, then you 3

7 may use a dryer on the hot setting. Instructions may indicate that the garment should not be dried in a dryer, but you should instead drip dry (hang it out dripping wet, without hand shaping or smoothing) or line dry (hang damp from line or bar inside or out of doors) or block to dry (reshape to original dimensions while drying) or smooth by hand (while the garment is wet, remove wrinkles and straighten seams and facing with your hands) or dry flat (which means you should place the garment out horizontally for drying). Two other self-explanatory drying instructions to watch for are line dry away from heat and line dry in shade. If the label in a garment just says iron, then use a temperature setting appropriate for fabric. (On most irons, you select the temperature by selecting the type of fabric you are ironing.) On some care labels, the ironing instructions are more specific. Watch for: warm iron, which means a medium temperature. setting; and cool iron, which means the lowest temperature setting. Some labels will instruct that you do not iron. Others say iron wrong side only, and you should turn the garment inside out to iron it. If you are using a steam iron, watch for no steam and do not steam. You may use your steam iron on such garments, but you must use it as a regular iron - cut off the steam setting. If the label says steam only and you have a steam iron, then you may put the iron to the steam setting and remove wrinkles by holding the iron above the garment. Do not let the iron

8 come in contact with the garment if the label says steam only. Two other special ironing instructions to watch for on labels are iron damp and use press cloth. Garments labeled iron damp should be moistened before ironing (a spray bottle works well), and use press cloth means the garment should be separated from the iron by a towel (or some other piece of fabric) when it is being ironed. And finally, some labels say that proper care is to dry clean or professionally clean only. This means the clothes may only be cleaned using the special cleaning chemicals used in the dry cleaning process, and, unless you have the chemicals, and the equipment, and the experience to apply them properly, you will have to take the garment to a dry cleaner. There s just no way to wash clothes labeled dry clean or professionally clean only in detergent or soap.,m n "2",, I [t _

9 Sorting The reason for sorting clothes is to make sure that similar items are washed together. If clothes aren t sorted properly, and you have loads that contain clothes requiring different laundering procedures, then some of them will be washed improperly. As you are sorting the clothes, you should also give them a final inspection to assure they are ready to go in the _washing machine. Clothes have passed final in- - spection when pockets have been emptied, heavy buttons and buckles have been removed, zippers are zipped and buttons buttoned, rips and tears are repaired and spots and stains are pretreated. Your inspection should also include a look at the care labels in clothes you haven t washed so often before that you know how to care for them. If there are instructions on the care label that you aren t familiar with, look them up on the care label chart in this book.

10 The sorting itself is a threestep process: Step I. First, go through the laundry and pull out all clothes that are heavily soiled, and all heavy, bulky items such as blankets and bedspreads. These should be washed by themselves. Step 2. Separate the clothes by color - you may put whites and pastels together, but dark colors go with dark colors. Step 3. Now go through the loads that are separated by color and separate them by the type of fabric. You don t want to mix durable fabrics that you plan to wash in hot water with delicate fabrics that you intend to wash in warm or cold water.

11 Stain Removal Techniques In dealing with most stains, the key is to start working to remove them as soon as possible. The longer they set, the harder they are to remove. To be ready to move fast when stains occur, you can set up a stain removal kit, made up of items you already have around the house. Your stain removal kit should include: OPre-wash soil and stain remover. (Look for this product in the same section of the store where you buy detergent, bleach and other laundry supplies. There are several brands on the market.) ORubbing alcohol. 0Household ammonia. OChlorine bleach. ODetergent. OWhite vinegar. 0Hydrogen peroxide. (The hydrogen peroxide solution in your stain removal kit should be no stronger than three percent pure hydrogen peroxide. Most of the hydrogen peroxide sold in stores is the correct strength, but check before you buy.) 0White paper towels or white fabric to serve as a blotter. (Make sure it s a rag if you re using a piece of fabric for a blotter in your stain removal kit. Don t use a towel or washcloth you don t want to have ruined.) 0A glass bowl. OThe stain removal charts in this booklet. Before you start work on the stain, there are some general guidelines to follow 4 4 Z 1/ l i: Sr l I l vr L»- kwqu-flu 7

12 and precautions to take: 1) Read the label on the stained garment, to see if there are special instructions for cleaning and stain removal. 2) Work in a well-ventilated area. 3) After you ve decided which stain removal solvent you are going to use, play it safe by running a test: Put a drop of the solvent on a bidden part of the garment such as a seam or hem to see how it affects the fabric. 4) Never use undiluted chlorine bleach. 5) Keep solvents out of the reach of children and pets. To remove a stain, place the stain face down on your blotter. Check your chart to see which stain removal solvent to use, then apply the solvent to the garment on the side opposite the stain. The idea is to use the solvent to push the stain out the same way it entered. The solvent pushes it out, and the blotter soaks it up. So, when the blotter starts getting sat urated too full to soak up any more of the stain move the stain to a new location on the blotter. If it s entirely full, it s time for a new blotter.

13 Stain Removal Chart Although alternative solvents and stain removal procedures will be listed in the chart to follow, the best stain removal technique for several types of stains is to use one of the stain removal products you ll find in the same section of the store where detergents, bleaches and other laundry products are shelved. Generally speaking, these products fall into one of two categories. There are enzyme presoaks, which usually come as a powder. The enzyme presoak is added to water in a tub or washing machine, and the stained garment is soaked in the solution according to package directions. There are also petroleum-based, spray-on stain removers. To use these, you simply spray on and rub into the stain before washing the garment as you ordinarily would. There are several brands of both enzyme presoaks and spray-on stain removers. Should you use an enzyme presoak or a spray-on remover? Which brand should you use? These are questions you ll have to answer for yourself. Read and compare the directions on several brands before you buy, to determine which product is best suited for the stains you deal with most frequently. Convenience and price also will be factors in your decision. More important than whether you choose enzyme presoak or spray-on stain remover (or which brand) is that you choose one, and have it on hand to 10

14 treat stains when they occur. In the chart to follow, if the best method for removing a particular stain is an enzyme presoak or a spray-on stain remover, the stain is preceded with an asterisk (*). The stain removal procedure that follows is recommended as a replacement, in the event you don t have access to enzyme presoak or spray-on stain remover. One thing to keep in mind if you re going to be using an enzyme presoak as an additive to a regular wash cycle: It should not be used with chlorine bleach. There s another point that needs to be made on stain removal in general: As soon as possible after you have finished pretreating the stained garment, you ll want to wash it according to the care label instructions. You ll want the hottest water that can be used with the fabric, and to use the strongest bleach that is safe for the fabric. Additionally, the garment that has been treated for stain should be washed by itself. If you put it in a load with other clothes, you could very well end up staining them also. For all of those stain removal methods involving the use of hydrogen peroxide, the hydrogen peroxide should be no stronger than three percent pure. (Stronger hydrogen peroxide isn t usually sold in stores, but it s a good idea to check before you use hydrogen peroxide as a stain removal solvent.) Blood Put the garment with the blood stain on it in cold water, and soak for at least thirty minutes. Next, rub the stain with detergent, and rinse out the garment. If this doesn t remove the 11

15 stain, try putting a few drops of household ammonia on it, then rub it with detergent and rinse it one more time. If you don t have ammonia, try using a few drops of hydrogen peroxide instead. Candle Wax. Place the stain between blotting papers or folded paper towels. Iron at a low temperature. Put a new blotter paper or cloth on both sides of the stain, and iron again. Continue to change blotter and iron until no more wax melts. and if there is any, don t use it!) Mix a teaspoon of bleach with a tablespoon of water, and use an eyedropper to apply. Don t leave the solvent on the stain any longer than two minutes. Next, apply a teaspoon of vinegar, and then rinse the garment with water. *Catsup Use a dull knife to remove whatever catsup you can. Soak thirty minutes in cold water, then rub detergent into the stain, and rinse. If there is still a stain left, try using chlorine bleach to remove it. (But remember: Whenever you have any doubt at all about whether or not to use chlorine bleach, run a test by placing a drop of the bleach on an inside seam to see if it causes any color change, 12

16 Chewing Gum Lift any gum you can from the fabric with a dull knife. (Rubbing ice on the gum will make this easier.) Sponge cleaning fluid on the remaining stain. * Chocolate Soak the garment in cold water. Next, work detergent into the stain, rinse and let dry. If this leaves a greasy stain, sponge it with cleaning fluid, rinse with water and allow it to dry. If there s still a stain following this, try a few drops of hydrogen perox ide on it. 01': Sponge cleaning fluid on to the stain, and launder the garment as you usually would. *Cojfee and Tea Add a bleach safe for the fabric to some cold water, and soak the garment in this. Next, put some cleaning fluid on a sponge, and use this sponge with cleaning fluid on it to work detergent into the stain. 01': If the garment is not made of a fabric that must only be washed in warm or cold water, pour boiling water onto the stain. Crayon Although come crayon stains may be impossible to remove, try this to remove the stain if it s on a bleachable fabric: Dampen the stain with water, and then rub laundry soap (not detergent) powder or flakes into the stain. Then launder the garment in the hottest water safe for the fabric, and add chlorine bleach to the wash load. Here s what you do if you 13

17 stains, try soaking the clothes in oxygen bleach or an enzyme presoak. Deodorant have an entire load of clothes with crayon stains, and it s safe to use chlorine bleach on all the clothes: Wash the clothes in the hottest water safe for the fabrics, using laundry soap and onehalf cup of baking soda. If the stains remain, wash the clothes again; this time use detergent and chlorine bleach. If you have crayon stains on a load of clothes that are not to be laundered with chlorine bleach, try washing the clothes with slightly more detergent than recommended, and make sure you use the hottest water temperature safe for the fabric. If this doesn t remove the crayon For relatively light deodorant stains, work detergent into the stain. Wash the clothes as usual, and add a bleach that s safe for the fabric in addition to detergent. If the deodorant stain has changed the color of the garment, it may be impossible to restore the garment s original color. Sometimes, however, sponging the stained area with household ammonia will help restore the original color. 01': Sponge the stain with white vinegar, rinse, and then let it air dry. If this doesn t get it out, next try sponging it with alcohol, then rinse and wash as usual. 01': l4

18 For particularly heavy deodorant stains, apply a paste of ammonia and oxygen bleach, and let this remain on the stain for about ten minutes before you rinse and launder. Fabric Softener Rub a dampened bar of soap over the stain, then wash the garment as you ordinarily would. *Fruit First and foremost: Do not use soap on a fruit stain! It may cause the stain to set; making it impossible to remove. If it s safe for the fabric, pour boiling water through the stain, then, if stain remains, sponge lemon juice or hydrogen peroxide solution on it. Launder with a bleach safe for the fabric. * Grass The enzyme presoak works very well on grass stains, but if you don t have an enzyme presoak, or if you try it and it doesn t work, then: Use your diluted hydrogen peroxide solution on the stain, and machine wash it with a bleach safe for the fabric. 01 : Work some detergent into the stain, then wash it using a bleach safe for the fabric. If that doesn t remove it, then sponge watered-down rubbing alcohol (make sure the mixture has twice as much water as alcohol if you re using it on a colored garment) on the stain, then rinse it and run it through the wash again. Grease and Oil Start by removing as much of 15

19 the stain as you can using a dull knife. Remove a little more by sprinkling talcum powder on the stain, letting it set for a while, then brushing it off. Next, work detergent into the stain and wash the garment in water as hot as the fabric will withstand. If that doesn t remove it, sponge cleaning fluid onto the stain, and machine wash the garment in the hottest water possible one more time. Make sure to use plenty of detergent when you do. 9" k; Ink Ball Point Pen Sponge the stain with rubbing alcohol or an enzyme presoak until the stain stops growing. Another way to stop the stain from spreading is to spray aerosol hair spray on it. Once the stain has stopped spreading, work detergent into the stain, then launder the garment by itself. Use chlorine bleach if it will not harm the fabric. 01 : Use a sponge to apply cleaning fluid to the stain. Rinse the cleaning fluid out, then soak the stained garment in a solution of detergent and warm water. Rinse it out in cold water, then machine wash according to care label instructions. Ink Felt Tip Pen Some stains will be impossible to remove, but start by trying the methods for removing a stain made by ink from a ball point pen. If that doesn t do it, try working a household cleaner into the stain. 01 : Use a sponge to apply cleaning fluid to the stain. Rinse the cleaning fluid out, then soak the stained garment in a solution of detergent and warm water. 16

20 Rinse it out in cold water, then machine wash according to care label instructions. *Mud Allow the mud stain to dry, then brush off as much as possible. Next, soak the garment in cold water. Launder with a bleach safe for the fabric. If the stain persists, then try treating it with diluted rubbing alcohol (twice as much water as alcohol for colored fabrics). Mustard Apply cleaning fluid. Rinse the solvent out, then work in some detergent and a few drops of white vinegar. Rinse it out well. If the stain remains, try using the hydrogen peroxide solution, and then launder with bleach that will not damage the fabric. 01': Sponge glycerine on the stain. Then work detergent into the stain, and launder with a bleach safe for the fabric. If the stain is still there, try sponging on the rubbing alcohol solution. Nail Polish Place the nail polish stain face down on a paper towel. Sponge the back of the stain with nail polish remover, and keep moving the stain to a clean section of the paper towel. (Do not use nail polish remover on acetate or Arnel fabrics. Nail polish remover dissolves these fabrics.) Paint (Oil Based) Oil-based paint often leaves a stain that is impossible to remove, but the chances of removing it are much better if you start work on it while the paint is still wet. If you have access to the can the paint came in, and if the instructions there recom- 17

21 mend the use of paint thinner, then use thinner as a solvent and sponge it onto the stain along with detergent. (Also, if thinner is to be used with the paint, then turpentine or cleaning fluid may be used as a solvent for stain removal.) Launder the garment as you usually would. If the stain remains, repeat the entire procedure. Paint (Water Based) Sponge cleaning fluid on the stain, then soak the garment in cool water to loosen paint. Perspiration Treating perspiration stains depends on when you notice them. If you notice them soon after they occur, then sponge on a very weak solution of ammonia and water. If the stain is set before you notice it, use a white vinegar solution. Scorch If a garment is severely scorched then the fabric has been damaged and the scorch cannot be removed. Sometimes a mild scorch may be removed by sponging it with the hydrogen peroxide solution, and letting it stand thirty minutes to an hour. If the garment is more severely scorched, try dampening a press cloth (a towel or piece of fabric you are willing to sacrifice) with hydrogen peroxide, and place this on the scorched area. Place another press cloth on top of the one saturated with hydrogen peroxide, and iron at the highest temperature safe to use on the stained fabric. *Soft Drinks Get busy a soon as possible when working on a soft drink stain! Otherwise, a yellow stain that is impossible to remove may develop l8

22 after the stain is dry. Sponge on cool water as soon as the stain occurs. Launder the stained garment (use the hottest water temperature and the strongest bleach the fabric can withstand). If this doesn t remove the stain and if you are not dealing with a fabric that chlorine bleach should not be used on, try this: In a tub or sink (but not in a washing machine), mix a solution that is composed of one tablespoon of chlorine bleach for each quart of cold water. If the soft drink stain you are trying to remove has occurred on a fabric on which chlorine bleach should not be used, make your soaking solution two tablespoons of hydrogen peroxide for each gallon of water. 01 : Soak the stain in a solution of lukewarm liquid detergent and a few drops of white vinegar before you launder the garment. Tar and Asphalt Once again, the key to getting the stain out is to get busy on it as soon as possible. Tar and asphalt stains may be impossible to remove if allowed to dry on the garment. Sponge the stain with cleaning fluid. Next work some detergent into the stain. Rinse the detergent and cleaning fluid out of the garment. If the stain remains, try putting a few drops of ammonia on it. * Tobacco Soak the stained garment in a solution that consists of one-half tablespoon of vinegar for each quart of warm water. 19

23 Ready, Set, Wash After the clothes have been sorted and stains have been pretreated, then you are ready to start the washing machine. But before you start the machine, you need to select the correct water temperature, and allow the tub to fill. As the washing machine fills, you should add the detergent and other additives (bleach and some kinds of fabric softener). Then, when the additives are in and the machine is filled with water, add the clothes, one garment at a time. Water temperature is important. The hotter the water, the cleaner the clothes will be. On the other hand, permanent press and most man-made fabrics such as acrylic, nylon and polyester will wrinkle if they are washed in hot water. On most washers, selecting water temperature is as simple as selecting the appropriate setting on the machine. (Remember that one of the reasons for sorting is to make sure the same water temperature is right for all the clothes in each load.) Usually, the regular or normal settings on a washer will give you hot water. If you want (or need) the added cleaning power of hot water, be certain of three things. Make sure all the clothes in the load are: 1) not likely to shrink, 2) not likely to fade, and 3) not permanent press or made from a man-made fabric. 20

24 Most washing machines offer a setting for permanent press, and this usually means the wash water will be warm. Nonetheless, some washers are designed to fill with hot water when permanent press is selected, and even some washers designed to fill with warm water on the permanent press cycle may be off because the water supply to the machine isn t right. So it s always a good idea to check the water temperature if you want warm water, and you re not sure the machine setting will provide it. (Warm water is between 90 and 110 degrees. It feels comfortable not too hot, not too cold when you put your hand in it.) Cold water is as effective as hot or warm water for rinsing clothes. So regardless of what wash temperature is selected, the rinse can be cold. This means that you don t need to worry about water temperature but once: If the water is the right tem- perature as the machine fills at the beginning of the wash cycle, then you re all set. If you have a load of clothes to wash in cold water, you need water that is no warmer than 85 degrees. There should be a setting on the washing machine for a cold wash. (If there s no setting for cold wash, then either the delicate or gentle settings will give you the cold water you need.) But once again: If you re not familiar with the washer, test the water temperature before you add the clothes. 21

25 Soap and Detergent Is there a difference between detergent and soap? Yes, and the difference is important when it comes to getting clothes clean. Both soap and detergent work well when clothes are washed in water that is soft, but if the water is hard soap is ineffective. (The concentration of dissolved magnesium and calcium in water determines whether it s soft or hard. Hard water contains a greater concentration of the metals than soft water does.) When soap is used in hard water, a film forms that will make the clothes come out gray and dirty looking. So if you know for sure that the water you re using is soft, it doesn t matter whether you use soap or detergent. Otherwise, it s best to play it safe and use detergent. How do you determine how much soap or detergent to use? Start by checking the recommendations on the package. Under certain conditions, you ll need to use more or less than the recommendations on the package. Use slightly more than the recommended amount when: 0The water is very hard. 0The clothes are very dirty. OIt s an especially large load of clothes. OYou re using a largecapacity washer, which has greater water volume than regular washers. Use slightly less than the recommended amount when: 0The water is very soft. Zwag; ( 22

26 7 0The clothes are only lightly soiled. 0The load is small. 0The washing machine you are using has a feature for small loads and you are using it. (The small load feature reduces the volume of water in the washer.) Many detergents have an ingredient called phosphorous, which makes the detergent work better. However, phosphorous and its derivatives, phosphates are controversial, and North Carolina is one of several states with laws banning the sale of detergents with phosphates in them. You can compensate for the absence of phosphates in your detergent by: 0Using slightly more detergent. 0Using the hottest water possible for the type fabric. OPretreating all soils and stains. OUsing more bleach. 23

27 B leaches There are two types of bleach chlorine bleach and oxygen bleach. Make sure you read the package carefully to determine which sort of bleach you re working with before you do anything! Chlorine Bleach Chlorine bleach is a powerful bleaching agent. It must be used carefully to avoid damage to clothes. Chlorine bleach usually comes as a liquid, but it is also available as a powder. Chlorine bleach whitens fabrics, removes stains, disinfects and deodorizes. If the washing machine you are using has an automatic bleach dispenser, use it according to directions. If the machine doesn t have a bleach dispenser, add chlorine bleach to the wash water with the detergent before the clothes are placed in the machine. This will ensure that the bleach is diluted before it comes in contact with clothes. Undiluted chlorine bleach should never be poured directly on clothing. Chlorine bleach shouldnever be used when you are washing dark or bright colors, or clothes made of wool, silk, mohair, spandex or rayon. Nor should it be used on clothes with permanent press finishes. Many clothing items treated with flameretardant chemicals will also be ruined if chlorine bleach is used. (So be careful when washing infant wear, as federal and state laws now.mandate that clothing for 24

28 young children be treated with flame-retardent chemicals.) Always check the care label before using chlorine bleach, and, if the label doesn t clearly indicate that chlorine bleach may be used, then run the test described in the next paragraph. Although chlorine bleach may be used on approximately seventy-five percent of all colored clothes, if you have any doubts use the following method to run a test: 1) Mix one tablespoon of bleach with one cup water. 2) Apply one drop of this solution to an inconspicuous part of the garment (an inside seam is a good place). 3) Let it stand for a minute, then blot it dry. If there is any color change whatsoever, do not bleach the garment. Oxygen Bleach The other type of bleach is oxygen bleach. It usually comes in a dry form, and it s safe to use on all washable fabrics if the care label does not say no bleach or do not bleach. Oxygen bleach is milder than chlorine bleach. It works best in hot water, or if the clothes are soaked in it for a while before washing. 25

29 Fabric Softeners Fabric softeners make washable fabrics soft and fluffy! There are two kinds: Some are used in the final rinse in the washing machine, and some are used in the dryer. But no matter which kind of softener you use, it will do these things for your clothes: 1. It will soften them, and keep them from feeling stiff. 2. It will eliminate static electricity from fabrics made of synthetic fiber. (Static electricity is what causes slips to cling to pants and skirts.) 3. It will make the fabric easier to iron. 4. It will reduce wrinkling. Fabric softeners that are added to the washing machine usually come in liquid form. Although most softeners are designed to be added during the final rinse, there are some that are added with the detergent, when the machine is first started. Make sure to check directions on the package before you start the machine, to determine which variety you are using. Some softeners are concentrated (which means you will not add nearly so much as you would otherwise). But regardless of whether the softener is concentrated or not, the amount of softener necessary depends on the volume of clothes in the washer, not the amount of water. Once again, the directions on the container are the final authority, and you should always check them 26

30 to determine how much softener is needed. No other products, such as bluing or water softener, should be added to the same rinse with a fabric softener; they can reduce the effectiveness of the softener. If the directions call for an undiluted softener to be poured directly on the fabric, it may cause an oily stain to appear on the fabric once it s dry. The stain can be removed by rewashing. (See fabric softener on the stain removal chart.) There are two types of fabric softeners designed to be added to the clothes dryer: 1. Some are tear-off sheets. The sheets are either made of non-woven rayon that has been saturated with fabric softener, or of polyurethene, another chemical that acts as a fabric softener. 2. Some come in a pouch that attaches to a fin of the dryer (these last for many loads of clothes). When using either rayon or polyurethene sheets, place them on top of the wet clothes after the clothes have been placed in the dryer. (The tumbling action of the dryer will take care of distributing the softener through the clothes). 27

31 Starches Starch restores body to fabric that has become limp and lifeless because it has been worn and washed so often. It gives clothes a fresh, smooth appearance and this can make them look almost new again. It also makes clothes more resistant to soil. Starch comes in three forms dry, liquid and spray starch (which comes in spray bottles and aerosol cans). You ll find instructions on packages of dry starch and bottles of liquid starch for us ing these products in washing machines. But, in many laundromats, the machines are not set up for starching to be done correctly. You need to be able to stop the washer, skip cycles, and start it again. So, if you wash clothes at a laundromat and want to use liquid or dry starch, it s probably a good idea to use a sink or tub for your starching. If the starch you are using is a liquid, read all the directions on the bottle before us-. ing it. Dry starch comes in two forms pre-cooked flakes that you add water to, and uncooked flakes that must be mixed with hot water and cooked according to package directions. Always read package instructions on dry starches. Make sure you know which form you re dealing with before you start preparing it. Once dry starch has been converted to a liquid with the addition of water (or by cooking), the instructions for starching are the same as they are for starch that came in a liquid form. 28

32 To starch in a sink or tub: 0Make sure the sink or tub is large enough. Don t crowd too many items of clothing into it. 'Dampen the clothes and shake them out before putting them into the tub with the starch in it. This will allow the starch to fully penetrate the fabric. After you ve starched the clothes, let them dry. The clothes may be dried in a dryer or hung out on a clothes line if you re not going to be ironing them the same day you wash. If you will be ironing the same day you wash, you may find it most practical and convenient to just fold the clothes loosely and put them back into your laundry bag or basket after they ve been starched. Regardless of whether the starched clothes are completely dry or still a little damp, when it comes time to iron them, sprinkle on warm water immediately before ironing. The most convenient form of starch to use is that which comes in aerosol cans or spray bottles. To use it, all you do is: 0Have your iron ready set to the appropriate setting for the fabric and place the garment you are starching on the ironing board. OHold the spray can or bottle at a forty-five-degree angle, six to twelve inches from the fabric, spray smoothly using a back-and-forth motion, then iron. If you want the garment heavily starched, spray it a second time. 29

33 Drying Clothes There are three ways to dry clothes tumble drying in an automatic dryer, line drying and flat drying. Tumble drying saves time, makes clothes soft and removes wrinkles. An enormous advantage of tumble drying over line drying is that you can dry clothes in a dryer no matter what the weather is like outside. If you are going to be using a clothes dryer, shake the clothes as you take them out of the washer. Clothes properly sorted for washing will most likely be properly sorted for drying, and that means all you do in most instances is take the load from the washer and put it in a dryer. Heavy fabrics should be kept separate from light fabrics, and permanent press should not be dried with non permanent press. If you re not using a laundromat, check the home unit dryer s lint trap before and after each load to keep the machine performing at its best. And be careful not to overload the dryer. Over-l loading can cause clothes to come out wrinkled. Line Drying gives clothes a fresh smell, and it saves money. But the weather can make line drying impractical, and clothes come off the line stiffer than they do when dried in a dryer. If you re going to be hanging clothes out on the line to dry, make sure the line is clean before you start hanging. Colored garments should be dried in the shade, to prevent fading. 30

34 Flat drying means placing clothes on a flat, clean, absorbent surface indoors. This method prevents shrinkage, and it s the best way to dry washable woolens. You might also come across care labels in garments made of other fabrics that instruct you to dry flat or to block to dry (reshape the garment to its original shape and then let it flat dry). The drawbacks to flat drying are that some items will dry very slowly this way, and it takes a lot of space to flat dry a load of clothes. 31

35

36 7Q D a Developed by: Ellen Smoak, Clothing Specialist Family Education Program Published by: North Carolina Agricultural Extension Program North Carolina Agricultural and Technical State University at Greensboro, North Carolina State University at Raleigh, and the US. Department of Agriculture, cooperating. State University Station, Creeensboro, N.C., D.D. Godfrey Administrator. Distributed in furtherance of Food and Agricultural Act, Sept. 29, 1977, PL , Sec An Equal Opportunity Employer