0684 WTDAE_7.indd 101 4/10/10 1:42:23 PM

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1 7 Laundry 0684 WTDAE_7.indd 101 4/10/10 1:42:23 PM

2 Generally speaking, this means washing clothes, towels and bedding, drying them and maybe ironing them. It isn t the trickiest of life s domestic challenges. People have been banging wet laundry onto rocks and laying it out in the sun to dry since Eve was a rib. The very weird thing is how often it goes wrong. How can it be? How can the cleverest people on the planet still put perfectly nice clothes manufactured in distinct colours into a washing machine and pull out a pile of grey sludge? How can they shrink their cashmere? After all everyone has said? Plainly, it can t be said too often, so here it all is, one more time. The mistake most of us make in terms of economy, time and the environment is that we wash too often. Clothes that don t smell or aren t obviously soiled, with the clear exception of underwear and socks, can be worn more than once. They can be worn all week if necessary, though by then the dust mites might be having a field day. I m sorry if that disgusts you. As a rule of thumb, towels and sheets should be washed at least weekly, but this can vary according to circumstances. Towels and bathmats used once or twice every day need to be dried between uses and, if this is impossible, they need to be changed more frequently. Owing to our capacity for shedding skin and perspiring at night, even clean-looking sheets need to be changed weekly. Allergy sufferers might benefit from a twice-weekly change, but this takes time and energy so a test run to check for significant improvement in the allergy is seriously advised. 102 household chores 0684 WTDAE_7.indd 102 4/10/10 1:42:23 PM

3 Washing There s machine-washing and there s hand-washing. Both carry risks to inoffensive fabrics going about their business, so it pays to understand the process, which is to say the way heat, pummelling, detergent and rinsing work to produce the perfectly laundered item. The washing machine Any washing machine is better than no washing machine, but there is a choice and it s not just between costly and cheap. There is also the choice of top loader or front loader. Australians tend to use top loaders; front loaders are favoured in the UK. So which works best? I consulted two Australian professional launderers. Both only ever use front loaders. The problem with the top loader, they say, is its poor mechanical action, which is to push and pull. There s very little movement in it and it won t necessarily push and pull in equal amounts. Its load is more often than not tangled at the end of the program. The action of front loaders takes the washing in opposite directions equally, and the load is rarely tangled. Since most fabrics can be machine-washed, the very best favour you can do them, before you bung them into the drum, is to appreciate the way the machine works best and how it will work best for any particular item. Read the manual. Even if you can see from the control panel what s what, read the small print. It s all in the detail. For both front and top loaders: z Refer to the washing machine manual for temperature settings and extraclever cycles. Usually, hot water should only be used on whites, and warm on coloureds. Some households only ever use a cold wash. Useless, say the professional launderers consulted above: all it does is shift surface dirt. They do, however, recommend beginning all washes with a quick rinse in cold water on the final rinse cycle, to get the dirt moving. z Use a high temperature (60 C, or 140 F) for sheets and towels to kill allergens and germs. z Always separate the load into whites, coloureds and coloureds that will almost certainly run. Laundry WTDAE_7.indd 103 4/10/10 1:42:23 PM

4 z In the interests of the environment, run a full load. In the interests of your washing, don t stuff the machine to the brim. Washing needs room to move freely. Don t call a full laundry basket a natural load, because it may not be. Both washing and drying machines run most effectively on threequarter loads. z Your manual will advise on your machine s capacity in weight, but only a weird person will weigh every wash. You may like to know that a bath towel weighs about 0.5 kilograms (1½ pounds) and a heavy cotton king-size sheet 1.5 kilograms (just under 3 pounds). z Wash items of different sizes in the same load. It allows them to move more freely in the machine. This ensures better washing and rinsing. Don t, however, load very heavy fabrics with very light ones, as the light ones will be crushed to death. z Whether you use green or traditional detergents, don t exceed the recommended dose. It will cause foaming, which reduces efficiency and can prevent spinning. On the other hand, don t skimp. Using too little will result in a grey wash. If machine-washing wool, use wool-specific detergent only. z If properly separated whites still emerge grey, chief suspects are not enough detergent or the water. Hard water (which is to say water with higher concentrations of calcium and magnesium) can cause whites to go yellow or grey. Even if the water in your area is considered soft, old pipes in the house can harden it. Try a water softener if all other boxes have been ticked. z Fabric conditioner isn t obligatory. Manufacturers would like us to consider it in the same way we do hair conditioner. They suggest that it prevents laundry from becoming tangled, eases the burden of ironing, and smells nice. It can certainly be helpful in areas where the water is hard. On the other hand, you can use white vinegar, lemon or Epsom salts instead. They are cheaper and chemical-free. z Close the door of the washing machine firmly or it won t start. z Don t leave washing in the machine for any length of time once the program has finished. Slightly damp laundry left in a machine or basket can become smelly and eventually mouldy. z Always mop up residual water in the machine at the end of the wash and leave the door open. It prevents smelly mould developing on the door seal. 104 household chores 0684 WTDAE_7.indd 104 4/10/10 1:42:23 PM

5 Machine-washing clothes Most garments are machine-washable. It would be a dreadful pain if they weren t. Machine-washing is more thorough than hand-washing, but, having said that, it s also harder on your clothes, especially clothes of poor quality that may have started life expecting nothing, not even a proper shape. Equally, expensive clothes of a sensitive nature may wilt and die if subjected to a washing machine s heat and pummelling, so check the care labels and remove from your wash anything that looks remotely frail. It will be made of silk, cashmere, the occasional synthetic and linen. This isn t to say that anything made of these must be hand-washed, just that they need proper respect. Laundry symbols A wash tub without a bar indicates that machine washing and that normal (max) washing conditions may be used, such as a cotton wash. A single bar beneath the tub indicates reduced (medium) washing and is suitable for synthetic washes. A double underline beneath the tub indicates much reduced (minimum) washing conditions, and is designed specifically for machine washable wool products. Garment must be hand-washed and in some instances the hand-washing cycle on the machine may be used. Garment must not be washed in a domestic washing machine or by hand. Dryclean only Can be ironed to maximum temperature of 110 C Can be ironed to maximum temperature of 150 C Can be ironed to maximum temperature of 200 C Indicates that the fabric should be Maybe tumble dried with drycleaned using tetrachloroethylene high heat setting or hydrocarbons. Indicates that the fabric should be drycleaned using hydrocarbons May be tumble dried with medium heat setting May be tumble dried with low heat setting Do not tumble dry Any bleach allowed Only oxygen bleach/nonchlorine bleach allowed Do not bleach Indicates that the garment is suitable for professional wet cleaning Do not dryclean Laundry WTDAE_7.indd 105 4/10/10 1:42:24 PM

6 You can machine-wash clothes on cycles from sensitive to rigorous, using temperatures from cold to very hot, but you really need to get these right if you don t want to ruin your wardrobe. Follow the washing machine manufacturer s instructions and use discretion. Be especially vigilant about separating coloureds from whites. If you are even slightly uncertain, run a cold wash on a gentle cycle, even if all it does is remove surface dirt; otherwise, hand-wash in the first instance to see what the colour does. Aside from that, all you really must do is: z Put machine-washable delicates, especially underwear, pantyhose (and socks, if you want to see a perfect pair ever again) into a net washing bag or a pillowcase, to protect them from tangling. Bra hooks can snag other garments; they can also get caught in the perforations of the washing machine or dryer cage. z Close all zips, hooks and eyes to prevent them shredding a nearby garment or being forced out of shape (even if they are in a net bag or pillowcase). z Check pockets for tissues a single tissue can cover a whole load of garments in confetti, and garments may need another complete wash after you ve picked the big pieces off. z Check all garments for marks or spillages. In the case of grease or coffee, spot-clean with soap, a DIY stain remover as listed below or a laundry solvent, depending on your attitude to chemicals. z When washing wool always use the wool cycle and always set to the maximum water level regardless of the size of the load. Hand-washing clothes Sometimes you hand-wash non-delicates because you aren t in a position to use a machine, but mostly you will be hand-washing delicates and these will be woollens and silks, both of which are natural fibres and can be safely washed provided they are uncomplicated by dodgy dyeing or unwashable finishes. The general rules are the same: slightly more demanding and time-consuming than machine-washing, but easily and successfully managed if you stick to the following: 106 household chores 0684 WTDAE_7.indd 106 4/10/10 1:42:24 PM

7 Silk z Before washing, check for colourfastness on a bit of the fabric that is invisible to the public gaze. Gently dab detergent onto it and rinse. If the colour of the water is anything other than slightly dirty or clear, forget washing. z Check for stains. Silk is highly absorbent, so anything spilt on it will need extra care. Be wary of mopping the spill with water because it can leave a watermark. Wash the entire garment as soon as possible in a detergent designed for delicates, or, if you prefer, in baby shampoo. Perspiration stains can usually be removed by careful sponging with diluted vinegar. If in any doubt about a stain, get professional help. z To wash, fill a basin with lukewarm water and add the appropriate detergent. Double-check the water temperature. It needs to be slightly cooler than skin temperature. z Swirl and squeeze the garment gently in the water. If there is any obvious soiling, massage the area between your fingers carefully to remove it. z Don t soak. z Rinse twice in cold water. Add a splash of white vinegar to the first rinse, to neutralise residual detergent. It also prevents bacteria and mould growth. z Remove excess moisture by rolling in a towel as you would a fajita and applying gentle pressure to it. Or, if you re brave enough, follow the advice of the professional launderer who says sticking the garment in the washing machine on a short spin cycle won t do it any harm. z Place the garment on a plastic or padded hanger to dry. There s no reason for it not to hold its shape. Avoid wooden hangers, which may stain the fabric. Don t hang it in direct sunlight or on a radiator, because heat can cause the fabric to yellow. z Never be tempted to tumble-dry silk. It causes far too much damage to the fabric fibres. Laundry WTDAE_7.indd 107 4/10/10 1:42:24 PM

8 Wool Your main concern when washing wool is shrinking it. This is usually caused by exposure to heat. Your next concern is losing its shape. This is caused either by rough handling or incorrect drying. The steps for hand-washing wool are more or less the same as for hand-washing silk, although wool is usually a little more robust, and in my experience requires considerably more rinsing. So: z Check for colourfastness and stains. If in doubt, get professional advice. z Wash in a gentle detergent in lukewarm water. Knead the garment gently in the suds. z Rinse in cold water and continue rinsing until there is absolutely no sign of detergent left in the garment. Again, a splash of white vinegar in an early rinse will neutralise any residue. Don t wring between rinses; gently squeeze water from the garment. z You can use your washing machine s gentle rinse and spin cycle to rinse woollen garments placed in a pillowcase or garment bag. I personally wouldn t do this to cashmere. z Never tumble-dry wool. The heat and tumbling motion will ruin it. If you are reluctant to commit your garment to the washing machine for any of its cycles, roll the washed garment in a towel. Sit on it, if necessary. You can then shape the garment on a new towel and dry it flat, which may take days. (A short burst on the gentle spin cycle is more appealing, but that s up to you.) An alternative, once you re confident you ve removed all excess water which can pull the garment out of shape, is to thread it via its sleeves or armholes onto a pair of pantyhose whose ends you tie either to a clothesline or a shower rail. Stain removal There are loads of products that can remove old stains, new stains, protein stains, vegetable stains and stains prior to washing or post-washing, and there are endless books and websites especially devoted to them. The most important thing to know is that the sooner you deal with any stain the better, and you should forget hot water (except in the case of fat see opposite). Flush first in cold. Also, in most cases, if you have no commercial products to hand or you despise them, the good old stand-bys are worth a shot. You treat, then you wash in detergent. 108 household chores 0684 WTDAE_7.indd 108 4/10/10 1:42:24 PM

9 z Biro stains can be treated with methylated spirits, provided the damage is slight. z Coffee and tea stains can be attacked with one part vinegar to two parts water. z For wine, use salt or soda water or any carbonated water. z Two quite different treatments recommended for fat stains are a thirtyminute soaking in water to which bicarbonate of soda has been added, or a soaking in warm water to which baby shampoo has been added. z Curry usually needs bleach, but you could try one part vinegar to two parts water. Anything drastic will need dry-cleaning, but check the price because the spotting agent required for the type of stain you ve incurred might cost more than replacing the garment. Prevention is best. Wear an apron in the kitchen and use a napkin when you eat. Drying There s tumble-drying and there s line-drying and, while tumble-drying has the distinct advantage of convenience, it isn t energy-efficient. Line-drying most certainly is, but it requires both a line and time for hanging. Also, overdrying on the line can make laundry infinitely crisper than we might like. The tumble-dryer There are two versions of tumble-dryer: the vented and the condenser. Vented tumble-dryers direct hot, damp air out of the house via a hose through a window or specially constructed vent; condensers gather condensation in a container which must be emptied after every use. Condensers can be sited anywhere in the house; vented are cheaper to buy and to run. Your choice will be governed by space, then expense. The programs on offer are the same. Modern tumble-dryers are usually fitted with sensors which stop the machine when the load has reached the desired degree of dryness. This is very helpful. It doesn t mean you can cram everything in and let rip, however. z First shake out the damp laundry. It gets rid of more wrinkles than you would imagine. Laundry WTDAE_7.indd 109 4/10/10 1:42:24 PM

10 z Don t stuff the tumble-dryer. Three-quarters full is best. Overloading reduces the effectiveness of the tumbling action and also causes wrinkling and tangling. z Don t load small items with heavy towels or any items together of significantly different weights. The drying will be uneven. z If you want to dry a very small load, add a couple of hand towels to balance it. z Don t put in anything that is dripping wet. z Check the care labels: more items than you might think are damaged by the heat and action of a tumble-dryer, especially T-shirts and lingerie. If doubtful, dry only to slightly damp. z Always allow the dryer to run through the cool-down program. It reduces heat in the load, which is critical for safety and the condition of the clothes. z Overdrying causes wrinkling. Overheating causes shrinkage. z Remove laundry when slightly damp if you intend ironing it. z If you want to put laundry away without ironing, fold while warm. For your edification, here is a list of garments and fabrics unsuitable for tumbledrying as listed by Hoover, who manufactured my dryer: z underwear containing metal reinforcements; z anything chemically impregnated; z anything you ve cleaned with a dry-cleaning solution; z anything, in fact, not washed in water; z anything plastic; z anything rubber-backed; z anything pleated, other than permanently pleated. Line-drying Should you be in a position to hang clothes on a line to dry, you need to know that how you hang counts, first in terms of speed of drying; second in terms of reducing creases and peg marks; and third in terms of keeping clothes in shape. Sheets and 110 household chores 0684 WTDAE_7.indd 110 4/10/10 1:42:24 PM