Instruction Manual HPC-1 MULTI-OIL COMBUSTION SYSTEM

Transcription

1 Instruction Manual HPC-1 MULTI-OIL COMBUSTION SYSTEM KingBuilt.com, Inc. HPC-1 Multi-Oil Combustion System Instruction Manual October 16,

2 KingBuilt.com, Inc. HPC-1 Multi-Oil Combustion System Instruction Manual October 16,

3 Table of Contents Introduction, Terms, and Definitions HPC-1 Specifications HPC-1 Components and Descriptions Installation Checklist Plan and Prepare Installation Area...9 Provide Adequate Air for Combustion Prepare Flooring or Foundation for Heating System...10 Install Oil Supply System Install Exhaust Venting.. 16 Prepare Unit for Plumbing and Install Piping Flush and Fill Boiler and Hydronic heating system..18 Connect Compressed Air Supply Connect Electrical Wiring Install Carbon Monoxide and Smoke Detector..20 System Startup System Maintenance Owner s System Checks and Safety Precautions Warranty KingBuilt.com, Inc. HPC-1 Multi-Oil Combustion System Instruction Manual October 16,

4 Introduction: The HPC-1 multi-oil combustion system is a versatile system capable of burning waste petroleum oils as well as virgin and waste bio oils. Read and follow this instruction manual completely for a smooth, successful installation of this system. HPC-1 Specifications Capacity Fuels Firing Rate GPH 2.77 GPH Uses Nozzle or Maximum Input 500,000 Btuh U.S. and Canada: ATF, Crank Case, Gear Oil, Hydraulic, Waste Vegetable Oil, Virgin Bio-Oils Hazard terms are used throughout this manual to bring critical information to your attention. Definitions: Denotes presence of a hazard which, if ignored, will result in severe personal injury, death or substantial property damage. Electrical Fuel Unit Dimensions (Burner) You must handle your waste oil fuel with extreme caution. These fuels may contain gasoline or other flammables. DO NOT add unapproved flammables to your waste oil. Power Supply :120/vac/60 hz/single phase Burner Op. Load: 5.8 AMPS max System Op. Load: 15.1 AMPS max Motor: 1/7 HP, 3450 RPM, NEMA 48M frame, rotation CCW when facing shaft end Ignition: Continuous-duty solid state igniter Outlet Pressure PSI Height (Maximum).12 inches cm Width (Maximum)..15 inches 38.1 cm Depth (from Flange) inches 25.4 cm Denotes presence of a hazard which, if ignored, could result in severe personal injury, death or substantial property damage. Denotes presence of a hazard which, if ignored, could result in minor personal injury or property damage. Intended to bring special attention to information, but not related to personal injury or property damage. Certifications/approvals: CSA has certified and listed the burner to comply with: CSA B M90, CSA C22.2 No 3, UL 296 and UL 296A and has listed it for use with waste and virgin oils as specified in ASTM D396. State and local approvals, if any, are shown on burner rating label. Notice special requirements: This equipment must be installed, adjusted and started only by a qualified service agency or an individual or agency, licensed and experienced with all codes and ordinances, who is responsible for the installation and adjustment of the equipment. The installation must comply with all local codes and ordinances and with the latest revision of the National Fire Protection Std. for Oil-Burning Equipment, NFPA 31(or CSA B139-M91). Concealed damage If you discover damage to the product during unpacking, notify the carrier at once and file the appropriate claim. Read all instructions before proceeding. Follow all instructions completely. Failure to follow these instructions could result in equipment malfunction and cause severe personal injury, death or substantial property damage. For your safety and protection, do not store flammables (such as gasoline), other flammable liquids, or vapors in the vicinity of your waste oil burner. You must follow your State and Local codes when setting up your waste oil storage units. These fuels are flammable and should be handled as such. When contacting KingBuilt.com, Inc. for service information, record the burner serial number and have available when calling or writing. You will find the serial number on the Burner label, located on the left rear of the burner, or the cover mounting plate. Kingbuilt.com Technical Service: Website: KingBuilt.com, Inc. HPC-1 Multi-Oil Combustion System Instruction Manual October 16,

5 Burner Controller Compressed Air Pressure Gauge HPC-1 Burner Components Control Valve Distribution Block Preheat Fluid Inlet/Outlet... Compressed Air Regulator Flexible OilSupply Line Compressed Air Solenoid Valve ThermalSwitch OilInlet (from Oil Pump) Compressed Air Pressure Gauge Fire Eye (Cad Cell) Preheat Fluid Inlet/Outlet Combustion Air Band KingBuilt.com, Inc. HPC-1 Multi-Oil Combustion System Instruction Manual l.ovivd February 26,

6 HPC-1 Components and Descriptions Air Diffuser: The function of this component is to even out the air flow coming through the Air Tube before it passes through the Air Turbine. Air Tube Assembly: Guides combustion air from the Blower Wheel into the fire. The Distribution Block is mounted inside the AirTube Assembly. Air Turbine: Combustion air from the blower wheel travels down the Air Tube and is forced into a tornadic pattern when it flows through the Air Turbine. This tornadic flow of air mixes with burning oil to provide oxygen needed for combustion. It also keeps the fire in a tight pattern. Burner Controller: Powers all of the electrical components of the Burner. For the details of this component refer to Honeywell s R7184A,B,P,U Series 5 Interrupted Electronic Oil Primary Installation Instructions, document# Burner Controller Reset Button: This button is used on initial startup of the Burner, and also for restarting the Burner if the Controller has gone into lockout mode. Burner Cord Receptacle: The attachment point for the Burner Cord coming from the Electrical Junction Box on top of the boiler. (See Burner electrical schematic for details.) Burner Motor: This electric motor spins the Blower Wheel inside the burner chassis. It is controlled by the Burner Controller and wired to the orange Burner Motor circuit. Combustion Air Band: In the event that the Air Shutter does not allow enough combustion air, the Air Band can be opened to allow in more air. However, Fine tuning the air is difficult with the Air Band so the Air Shutter should be used for this. Combustion Air Shutter: The Air Shutter regulates how much combustion air enters the burner chassis by rotating it on the chassis. There is a pointer on the air shutter that points to numbers on the burner chassis, 1 being the least amount of air allowed, 10 the most. The Air Shutter is used to fine tune the amount of combustion air needed for good combustion. Compressed Air Inlet: The attachment point for the air line coming from the air compressor. Compressed Air Flow Control Valve: Controls the flow of compressed air to the nozzle during the first stage of the two stage combustion cycle. See burner operation section for settings. Compressed Air Pressure Gauge: This device provides a reading showing the back pressure between the Nozzle and the Air Regulator. Refer to burner operation section for settings. Compressed Air Regulator: This device provides a means of controlling the amount of compressed air to the Nozzle. It has a knob on top which when turned clockwise increases the air pressure. This knob can be pushed down to lock the setting. Compressed Air Solenoid Valve: This valve opens and closes the compressed air supply to the Distribution Block and Nozzle. Compressed Air Solenoid Valve 3-Way: This valve diverts compressed air to two different compressed air circuits for two stage Burner operation. When the valve is energized, it diverts air to the Flow control Valve, then to the Distribution Block and Nozzle. When the valve is deenergized, it allows air to go directly to the Distribution Block and Nozzle. Distribution Block: Routes compressed air from the Flow control Valve or Regulator and preheated oil from the Heat Exchanger to the Nozzle. Fire Eye (Cad Cell): The Fire Eye is a cadmium cell which senses the intensity of light emitted from combustion. It is wired to the CadCell circuit of the Burner Controller. The Burner Controller uses the ohms resistance provided by the Cad Cell to determine the presence of fire. When the Fire Eye sees fire, the electrical components of the Burner are powered, and the burner is allowed to operate. Flexible Oil Supply Line: The Listed steel braided hose provides a way to open and close the boiler or furnace door without having to disconnect the oil line. Heat Exchanger: The stainless steel Heat Exchanger uses hot fluid coming from the Preheat Assembly to warm the cool oil coming in from the Oil Pump. Igniter: Mounted to the top of the Distribution Block. It has v-shaped electrodes that protrude out and above the Nozzle. The Igniter receives voltage from the Ignition Transformer, and produces an electrical plasma arch between the electrodes. The arch extends out into the atomized oil spray and ignites it, creating combustion of the atomized oil. Ignition Transformer: Receives electricity from the Burner Controller and converts it to a high voltage/low amperage power which is delivered to the Igniter via a pair of contact springs. Nozzle: Receives compressed air and oil from the Distribution Block and mixes them together, creating a conical shaped atomized oil spray ejecting out of the Nozzle tip. Oil Solenoid Valve (External): Mounted between the Flexible Oil Line and the pipe leading to the Heat Exchanger. It provides a means of closing off the oil supply when the burner is not firing. 6

7 Oil Solenoid Valve (Internal): Mounted in the back of the Distribution Block. Prevents any oil from seeping into the Nozzle between burn cycles. Outlet 110 Volt: Provides a location to plug in a small air compressor for providing compressed air to the burner. Preheat Fluid Supply and Return: The heated liquid lines from the Preheat System are attached here. These fittings lead into the Heat Exchanger. Start Helper Heater: Warms the oil between the Heat Exchanger and the Internal Oil Solenoid Valve on the rear of the Distribution Block. Helps ensure proper temperature of oil during start of burn cycle. Thermal Switch: This device proves that a heated liquid of at least 150 F is flowing through the Preheat System. This switch is wired to the T-T circuit of the Burner Controller. Oil Pump Assembly Components and Functions Chassis: The Oil Pump Chassis holds the Gear Motor and Oil Pump in place and provides a means of mounting the Oil Pump. Always mount horizontally. Coupler: The plastic Coupler connects the Gear Motor to the Oil Pump. Prior to installing a Gear Motor, place the Coupler in a bench vise and gently squeeze the end caps towards each other to make sure the end caps are square with the gray tube. Gear Motor: The Gear Motor drives the Oil Pump and is sized according to the oil flow needed for each boiler or furnace. The Gear Motor should be wired to the orange Burner/Motor circuit of the Burner Controller. Oil Pressure Gauge: The Oil Pressure Gauge displays the pressure in the oil supply system. Oil Pump: The Oil Pump, driven by the gear motor, pulls oil from its source and pushes it to the burner. Oil Pump Oil Pump Strainer: There is a small circular strainer inside the Oil Pump that serves as a final filter point for incoming oil before it enters the pump. The strainer can be cleaned and re-used. Primer/Fill Tube: Used for priming the oil pump during initial startup. Primary Oil Strainer Components and Functions Drain Plug: Can be removed to drain oil from the Strainer for maintenance purposes. Strainer Filter: Removes impurities from the incoming oil before it enters the Oil Pump. The Filter can be cleaned and re-used. Vacuum Gauge: Indicates when the Strainer Filter is getting clogged, and needs to be cleaned. When the needle is in the green area on the gauge, the Strainer is operational. When the needle reaches the yellow to red area, the filter in the strainer must be removed and cleaned. 7

8 Preheat Assembly Components and Functions Air Vent: Automatically vents air from preheat system. All air must be vented from the system to ensure the Electric Element is fully submerged in water, so it doesn t overheat and burn out. Circulation Pump: Circulates water between the Preheat Assembly and Burner Heat Exchanger. Electric Element: Heats water in the Preheat System until system gets up to operating temperature. Time Counter Box: Keeps track of the number of hours the system runs. There are two time counters in box. One is nonresettable, and keeps track of total hours. The other is resettable for service purposes. Preheat Assembly: Used to preheat a liquid which in turn preheats the oil going into the Burner. Necessary for proper atomization of oil for combustion. Preheat Thermostat: Controls the temperature of the liquid in the Preheat System. Normally is set to about 165 degrees F. Must heat the liquid in the Preheat System to 150 degrees F before Burner will switch on. Preheat Liquid Supply and Return: The heated liquid lines leading to and from the Burner Heat Exchanger are attached here. 8

9 Plan and Prepare Installation Area Decide on a location for your heating system. The location you choose should meet the following criteria. Convenient access to heating system piping. Convenient access to domestic hot and cold water piping (when applicable). Access to 110 Volts A.C. / 20 Amp electrical service. Access to fuel source. Access to compressed air source. Adequate space for unit and clearance around for maintenance. Recommended minimum clearances: 36 above the top and preheat area. 36 of clearance in front of door and burner area. 24 of clearance for rear and primary piping area. Adequate ventilation for a reliable supply of combustion air to the burner. Exhaust ventilation (chimney) present or able to be installed. Foundation that is solid and non-flammable, such as cement or brick. Must be non-flooding area, or able to elevate unit sufficiently above floodable area. Provide Adequate Air for Combustion Provide or ensure reliable supply of combustion air to the burner. Follow the guidelines below to ensure your system has enough combustion air available to operate safely. The heating system must be supplied with a reliable combustion air source, or the burner cannot properly burn the fuel. This would result in incomplete combustion, causing sooting and possible emission of carbon monoxide. Severe personal injury, death or substantial property damage could occur. The installer must follow the requirements of state, provincial or local codes when sizing and locating adequate air openings for combustion and ventilation. In absence of these codes, NFPA Standard 31 (listed below) may be used, which applies to ventilation of a confined space. (A confined space is normally defined as a room that has less than 7200 cubic ft per 1 GPH of input of all appliances located within the area.) For system located in an open area: In older buildings, there may be enough draft available naturally for adequate supply of air to the burner. In newer or more air-tight buildings, extra ventilation may be necessary. There cannot be negative pressure in the area where the unit is to be installed. Note on exhaust fans and other air-using devices: Size air ventilation openings large enough to allow for all air-using devices in addition to the minimum size opening required for combustion air. If there is any possibility of the room developing negative pressure (because of exhaust fans or clothes dryers, for example), either pipe combustion air directly to the burner or provide a sealed enclosure for the burner and supply it with its own combustion air supply. Using Inside Air NFPA Standard 31: Two Permanent Openings: One opening must commence within 12 inches of the ceiling and the other opening within 12 inches of the floor. The opening must have a minimum height or length dimensions of 3, the actual dimensions are based on: Using Inside Air: Each opening must be connected freely to the areas having adequate infiltration from the outside. Each opening 9

10 should be at least 140 sq. inches per 1 GPH of input (1 sq. inch per 1000 BTU input). This input should include all appliances (gas or oil) plus any appliances that may draw air from the room such as clothes dryers. Using Outside Air Using Outside Air: Each opening should be connected directly or by ducts to the outdoors or to a crawl space or attic area that is freely connected to the outdoors. The openings should be sized as follows: Through outside wall or vertical ducts: The openings should be a minimum 35 sq. inches per 1 GPH input (1 sq. inch per 4000 BTU input) of all appliances (gas and/or oil) plus any appliances that may draw air from the room such as clothes dryers. Horizontal Ducts Through horizontal ducts: The openings should be a minimum 70 sq. inches per 1 GPH input (1sq. inch per 2000 BTU input) of all appliances (gas and/or oil) plus any appliances that may draw air from the room such as clothes dryers. Where ducts are used, the size of the duct should equal the free area of the opening which the duct is connected to. The installer should compensate for any louvers, grills, or screens when determining the free air of the opening. The installer should refer to the louver or grille manufacturer s instruction for determining free area. In absence of the manufacturer s instructions the installer should use the following as a guideline: Wood louvers will provide 20 to 25% free area. Metal louvers will provide 60 to 75% free area. Installers should lock louvers in the open position or provide an interlock system to prove the louvers are in the open position prior to operation of the heating unit. Prepare Flooring or Foundation for Heating System Never install the heating system on carpeting, even with a metal foundation base. Fire can result causing severe personal injury, death, or substantial property damage. A level concrete, brick, or tile foundation is recommended, and should be able to easily support the weight of the unit after filled with water. (See the manual for your specific boiler for wet or filled weight). The installer should provide a solid brick or concrete foundation pad, at least 2 inches above floor level if: There is a potential for the floor to become flooded. The height of the foundation should be such to sufficiently elevate the unit. The floor is dirt, sand, gravel, or other loose material. The floor is uneven or sloped. Vertical Ducts Horizontal Ducts 10

11 Install Oil Supply System Choose an Oil Supply System. Flooded or bottom drawn type system. Whenever possible, use this type of system. This is the simplest, most trouble free oil supply system. Oil is drawn from the bottom or flooded part of the tank, and then piped through the filter/ strainer, oil pump, and to the burner. This system uses a tank that has vent and fill openings on top, an outlet about 4-6 up from the bottom of the tank (where the oil line connects), and a drain outlet on the bottom (to drain sludge and water). See illustration to right for details. Converting a standard tank with only a drain outlet for use with a bottom drawn system. It is possible to convert a standard tank with only a drain outlet for use with a bottom drawn system. Run copper tubing through a compression fitting, through a pipe tee, and up into the tank. Tubing should extend 4-6 up into the tank. Attach a valve to the tee for draining sludge and water from the bottom of the tank. See illustrations below. 11

12 NEW EXTERNAL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE OIL PUMP SET UP In 2011 we improved our oil pumping system by relocating the pressure relief valve (prv) from inside the oil pump to external to the oil pump. The vast majority of oil pump failures are because the internal prv malfunctioned, not because the pump was worn out. The internal prv contains many small moving parts and tiny orifices that cause issues with pumping used oils. The external prv of the new system contains only two internal parts, a spring and a plunger. It is factory set at 15psi so there is no longer any adjustment that needs to be made. Should it fail, only the inexpensive prv needs to be replaced, not the entire pump. Oil Pump model A2RA 7737 has an internal pressure relief valve. Model A2RA 7710 has no prv internally and thus an external prv must be used. Our new oil pump assembly must be set up as shown above. Note: the oil strainer vacuum gauge is not shown. The return line could also go back to the tank, but is unnecessary. Just as with the previous system, the nozzle of the burner must be the highest point of the oil supply from the outlet of the oil pump. The nozzle is a siphoning nozzle which produces vacuum and will pull the oil out of the oil line faster than the oil pump will deliver if it is lower than the outlet of the oil pump.

13 Top pull type system. A top pull system is not generally recommended, as it can be more prone to vacuum leaks than the bottom drawn system. It can be used when the burner/heating unit is at a higher level than the oil tank. Oil is suctioned up from the bottom of the tank through a pipe that extends from the top down to 4-6 off the bottom of the tank. Oil is then piped up to the strainer, through the oil pump, and to the burner. This system uses a tank that has vent and fill openings on top, an outlet on top, and a drain outlet on the bottom. See illustration to right for details. The model oil supply system. Below is an example of the ideal oil supply system. The system is the bottom drawn type, with minimal (12 or less) or no drop from the outlet on the oil pump to the oil inlet on the burner. The outlet of the oil tank is 4-6 off the bottom of the tank to eliminate any water, antifreeze or sludge from entering the system. There are shut-off and drain valves in appropriate locations for servicing the system. The oil pump is mounted horizontally, and close to the oil tank to minimize the length of the suction side of the system (the line between the tank and the inlet of the oil pump). There are no compression fittings which allow air into the system, only pipe fittings and flare fittings. 12

14 Oil supply system with outdoor oil tanks or large drops in oil line. Outdoor oil tanks can be used provided they are used with a flooded type oil supply system. In cold climates, a Transfer Pump (mounted indoors) must be used to transfer the cold oil from outside into the building. A small Oil Reservoir can be added to the system indoors to vent any air from the system, and pre-warm the oil to at least 50 deg. Fahrenheit. Consult with Kingbuilt technical service for these options. If it is necessary to run the oil supply line over a doorway or other obstacle where there is a significant drop, a Transfer Pump and Oil Reservoir must be added to the system as shown below. The standard (low RPM) oil pump should be mounted close to the burner, and the Transfer Pump (high RPM) should be mounted by the oil tank. This will vent any air from the long drop over the doorway, and ensure continuous flow of oil to the burner. 13

15 Oil supply system with oil line preheat for vegetable oil. This oil line preheat system enhances system performance and reduces system maintenance when using vegetable oil for fuel. The system preheats the oil supply lines, strainer, and pump, keeping any fats in the oil liquid. This is accomplished by circulating hot water from the boiler preheat through hoses surrounding the copper oil supply lines. The components used in this system are shown in the illustration to the right. Copper line (3/8) is fed through rubber hose (5/8 ID), and sealed on each end with a compression fitting. Pipe tees (1/2 NPT), push-on fittings (3/8 x ½ NPT), and rubber tube (3/8 ID) are used to connect water line runs together. The oil pump is wired to run continuously, which keeps warm oil flowing through the strainer and pump at all times. A solenoid valve connected to the top of the oil pump is wired to open up whenever the burner is not firing. This diverts the flow of oil back to the oil tank between burn cycles. The illustration below shows how the system works. 14

16 Choose a Location for the Oil Tank, and Install. You must follow your State and Local codes when setting up your waste oil storage tank. The tank must be listed. The tank must be vented outside. Fuels are flammable and should be handled as such. The location should be: As close to the heating system as possible. Next to an outside wall for venting. Easily accessible for filling. Easily accessible for draining and cleaning. Indoors if possible. The minimum temperature at which oil should enter the burner heat exchanger is 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Proper installation of your oil supply system is vital to over-all system reliability and operation. Any opportunity for air leaks, air pockets, or clogs must be avoided. Install the Oil Pump. The oil pump should be located as close to the oil tank as possible. This minimizes the length of the suction part of the oil line (the area where vacuum leaks can occur). It is best to keep the entire oil supply system at the level of the oil inlet on the burner. This is to ensure that there will be a steady stream of oil to the burner, and no air pockets in the line. The system will work fine with up to a 12 max. drop, but eliminate any drop as much as possible. The Oil Pump Assembly must be mounted horizontally so that the shaft of the oil pump is in the horizontal position as shown. This prevents premature wear on the oil pump bearings and seals. Install Shut-off (Ball) Valves. Shut-off valves should be installed in any location where the flow of oil needs to be temporarily turned off for servicing the system. Typical locations are: On the oil tank drain outlet. (For draining tank.) In a flooded type system, on the oil tank outlet or between the tank and strainer. (For cleaning strainer.) Between the strainer and oil pump. (For cleaning primary strainer and strainer inside oil pump.) Between the oil pump and burner, where needed depending on layout. (For cleaning strainer inside oil pump, and servicing burner.) Install the Strainer and Vacuum Gauge. Install vacuum gauge in top of strainer as shown. Use paste thread sealant on threads. Tighten down securely to prevent vacuum leaks. Connect the output port of the strainer directly to the input port of the oil pump. Install a shut-off valve to use when cleaning strainer. An example of one configuration is shown in illustration above. Be sure to orient the strainer so the direction of flow is toward the oil pump. The direction of flow through the strainer is shown by arrows cast into the top of the strainer body. Tapered pipe fittings with liquid pipe sealant or copper tube with flare fittings must be used to connect the strainer to the oil pump. 15

17 Always use paste type thread sealants, never use Teflon tape on any fuel fitting. Tape fragments can lodge in fuel line components and burner, damaging the equipment and preventing proper operation. Use only the #100 mesh stainless steel strainer from KBI for filtering the oil. Anything finer is overkill and will reduce the reliability of the system. Install Oil Lines. Install the oil line between the tank and strainer, and between the oil pump and flexible oil line on the burner. If distance between components is under 75 ft, use 3/8 O.D. copper tubing with flare fittings. If distance is over 75 ft, use ½ O.D. copper tubing with flare fittings. The suction part of the oil line (between the oil pump and tank) must not have any lengths higher than the oil pump inlet. If so, air may get trapped and not bleed out of the line. Use only continuous lengths of heavy wall copper tubing. Use only flare fittings and tapered pipe threads for connections. Never use compression fittings. The oil line must be air tight, or the system will not start reliably. Some states require a fusible-link(s) in the oil line for protection in the event of fire. We recommend this as good industry practice for all installations. Install Exhaust Venting Improper installation of exhaust venting system could cause improper draft causing flue gas leakage and carbon monoxide emissions, which could lead to severe personal injury or death. Installation must comply with local requirements of oil burning appliances. In absence of local codes, the installer should refer to: NFPA 31, Installation of Oil-Burning Equipment NFPA 211, Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents, and Solid Fuel Burning Appliances NFPA 211 requires the chimney to be lined before connecting to the heating unit. In Canada, the installer should refer to CSA B139, Installation Code for Oil Burning Equipment. Exhaust Outlet and Chimney Specifications for system: Refer to the manual for your particular boiler for exhaust specifications. The chimney size should be kept to the minimal specification for your boiler, since oversized chimneys could result in the formation of condensate in the chimney. Using an Existing Chimney Inspect existing chimney before connecting to the heating unit. Failure to comply with the following guidelines will result in personal injury or death: Clean the chimney, including removal of any blockages. Repair or replace any deteriorating or damaged vent pipe or liner. Repair any damaged chimney mortar or joints. Installing Chimney - General Requirements and Instructions. The chimney must extend a minimum 3 feet above the highest point where it passes through the roof and 2 feet higher than any portion of the building within 10 feet. 16

18 The cross sectional area of the chimney and the height must be increased at minimum 4% per 1000 feet of elevation above sea level. The installer must maintain minimal clearances from the vent pipe to combustible materials as follows: Type L double wall vent 6 inches. Single wall vent pipe 18 inches. Use only stainless steel chimney components for both singe and multi-wall Class A components. Other coated steel components will corrode in a short period of time causing potential major damage. Long horizontal vent runs, excessive number of tees or elbows or other fittings that restrict the combustion flue gas flow can result in potential flue condensation, flue gas leakage and/or carbon monoxide emissions, which can lead to severe personal injury or death. Refer to the manufacturer of the chimney components instructions for accurate information on installing these components. See illustration for different types of exhaust venting systems. Ensuring a Good Draft After chimney is installed, check the draft with a draft gauge. When the heating unit is properly installed, the draft should be approximately w.c. to w.c. Install a barometric control device (damper) in the vent connector as shown in illustration and adjust per the manufacture s instruction when excess draft needs to be relieved or when applicable codes require a device. Install a draft inducer fan in the chimney for applications in which: The cross-sectional area of the chimney is smaller than the minimum area required. The chimney height is less than the minimal requirement The draft does not meet the minimum requirement consistently. When using a draft inducer, the installer should seal all vent joints and provide an interlock system for the heating unit to ensure fan operation. Prepare Unit for Plumbing and Install Piping Refer to Boiler Assembly and Installation Manual for complete plumbing instructions and options. 17

19 Flush and Fill Boiler and Hydronic heating system Flush Boiler to Remove Sediment The installer must flush the boiler, preheat, and hydronic heating lines to remove any sediment from the system. Flush the system until the water runs clean and is free of sediment. For primary zoned systems, each zone should be flushed through a purge valve. Purge valves and isolation valves should be installed on each zone to allow for proper flushing of the system. Check and Test Antifreeze For primary systems containing antifreeze solutions, follow the antifreeze manufacturer s instructions in verifying the inhibitor level and to ensure the fluid characteristics are within specification requirements. Due to the degradation of inhibitors over time, antifreeze fluids must be periodically replaced. Refer to the manufacturer of the antifreeze for additional instructions. Use of Antifreeze in the Primary System Never use automotive or ethylene glycol antifreeze or undiluted antifreeze in the primary system as freeze protection. This can cause severe personal injury, death, or substantial property damage if ignored. Determine the antifreeze fluid quantity using the system water content volume and following the antifreeze manufacturer instructions. Check the boiler installation manual for the water capacity of your boiler. Remember to include the volume of your expansion tank. Check local codes requirements for the installation of back flow preventers or actual disconnect from the make up water supply line. Fill the System Close the primary drain valve located on the rear of the unit and any manual or automatic air vent in the system. Open all isolation valves. Fill the system to correct system pressure. Correct pressure will vary with each application. Typical system fill pressure is 12 psi. System pressure will increase when temperature increases. Operating pressure of the system should never exceed 25 psi. Open the valve to the preheat assembly on top of the boiler to fill the preheat with water. This will also allow air to escape from the primary system through the automatic vent on top. Failure to open the valve to the preheat assembly will cause the preheat electric element in the preheat to overheat and burn out. This would result in having to replace the element, and other possible damage to preheat assembly from overheating. Purge air in each zone of the primary system through the purge valve. Open air vents to allow air to be purged in the zones. Once the system is completely filled and purged of all air, check the system pressure and check for leaks. Connect Compressed Air Supply Install the appropriate compressed air fitting onto the compressed air inlet of the air regulator on the burner. Install air supply hose, and connect to air compressor. Be sure to use an air compressor that is capable of handling constant use at 20 psi. Kingbuilt.com Inc. offers an industrial air compressor capable of handling the demands of this system. Please contact Kingbuilt for more information at

20 Connect Electrical Wiring Connect Oil Pump Wiring Oil pump should be wired into junction box on top of heating unit as shown in the illustration to the right. Either wire from the oil pump gear motor can attach to hot or neutral. Connect Main Wiring All field wiring made during installation must comply with: National Electrical Code NFPA 70 and any other national, state, provincial or local codes or requirements. In Canada, CSA C22.1 Canadian Electrical Code Part 1, and any other local codes. Be sure to install a wall mounted switch near the heating system. In the event of an emergency the system can be deenergized quickly. System operates at a maximum of 15.1 Amps, 120 Volts AC. Size supply wiring and breaker for 20 Amps. Connect 120 VAC power, neutral, and ground leads from supply to locations labeled in illustration. Use supplied wire nuts. Connect Burner Cord to Burner Attach burner cord to receptacle on burner. For reference, Burner wiring diagram is shown to right. 19

21 Install Carbon Monoxide and Smoke Detector Install an approved Carbon Monoxide Detector and Smoke Detector in the area where the boiler is located. The 120V plug in style is recommended to reduce maintenance on detectors. Follow the manufacturer s instructions on placement of the detectors in the room. Once installed, test alarms and make sure they can be heard in all attached living or work areas. Establish a schedule for regularly testing alarms. Test a minimum of once per month. If alarm ever sounds, shut down all appliances in room (if possible), vacate area, and call a certified technician to locate the source of smoke or carbon monoxide. Installing a Carbon Monoxide and Smoke detector as a preventative measure could prevent substantial property damage, injury, or death. Do not take a chance with any CO emitting appliance- install a detector. System Startup Prime and Prepare Oil Supply System and Burner Never attempt to start the burner when excess fuel or vapor has accumulated in the appliance. Starting the burner under these conditions could result in a puff-back of hot combustion gases, high smoke levels, or otherwise hazardous operation. Open the shut off valves in the oil supply line to the burner. Fill the oil strainer through the strainer primer/fill tube with clean used vegetable oil, used motor oil, virgin ATF or hydraulic fluid. NEVER USE VIRGIN MOTOR OIL! IT WILL NOT BURN. On burner, close air band (around vent area) and open the air shutter (on face of vent area) to 4. This is an initial air setting for the pump venting procedure only. Additional adjustments must be made with instruments. Set Thermostats: Boiler Aquastat, and Preheat Electric Element Set the Boiler Aquastat (on top of Boiler) to around 175 F. Set the Thermostat Dial on top of the Preheat Electric Element to 165 F (as shown). The Preheat Electric Element must heat the water entering the burner to at least 150 F to enable (allow power to) the burner. However, the lower the setting, the less the element will come on, saving electricity. Studies have indicated that dangerous bacteria can form in the potable water distribution system if certain minimum temperatures are not maintained. For prevention of this, it is recommended that the system temperature be set and maintained over 140 F. Preheat Electric Element Turn Unit on and Vent Air from Preheat System Turn external service switch and unit s main power switch on. The preheat circulation pump should begin pumping water to the burner and the electric heater should heat the water in the preheat circuit. Feel water lines to burner; they should heat up quickly. 20

22 As water circulates through the preheat circuit, any air in the system will escape out through the air vent at the top of the preheat piping. Make sure cap on vent is loose, so air can vent freely. If the green light of the burner controller is flashing, push and hold the reset button for 35 seconds, until green light blinks. This will reset the burner s lockout counter to zero, and send the control to standby mode. Purge Air from Oil Supply System, and Adjust Burner Once the preheat system has risen to above 150 F, the burner s thermal switch will close and the burner controller will start the burner into the 15 second pre-purge process. Immediately after the pre-purge process, after oil solenoid clicks on, press the reset button on the controller for ½ second or less. As long as the control is in standby mode (following a successful burn cycle or reset button held for 35 seconds), the ignition will remain on for the entire heat cycle, and the controller will not lock out for 4 minutes. This should allow enough time for all air bubbles to be purged from oil lines and burner. Note: During a normal burn cycle, the igniter will drop out after 10 seconds, and the controller will lock out as soon as the cad cell (flame photo eye) senses inconsistent or no flame. Adjust the burner air pressure to 8 psi with the regulator. At this point the pump should begin pulling oil from the tank and pushing through the oil line going to the burner. Let the burner & pump system run until the burner fires. After air is purged and the burner is firing consistently, adjust the air shutter until the fire is bright yellow-white, and free of smoke. Air shutter setting should be somewhere around 4, depending on draft. Check to make sure there is zero smoke emitting from the chimney stack. Fine adjust air shutter if needed to eliminate smoke. Now the additional combustion tests with instruments can be made. Check the pressure gauge on the oil pump. If the needle is not steady but nervous, then there is a vacuum leak between the oil tank and inlet of the oil pump. Find and fix the vacuum leak before proceeding. After the burner has fired consistently, oil pump pressure needle is steady, and combustion is smooth, shut the system down. Give the combustion chamber time to clear out, and turn system back on. System should now re-start normally and is ready for daily use. Set Burner Combustion with Instruments The combustion must be adjusted using test instruments. Failure to do so could result in burner or appliance failure, causing potential severe personal injury, death or substantial property damage. Let burner run for approximately 5 to 10 minutes. Adjust draft control devices so that stack draft is -.01 to -.05 w.c. Follow these four steps to properly adjust the burner: 1. Adjust air until a trace smoke level is achieved. 2. At the trace of smoke level, measure the CO2 (or O2). This is the vital ref. point for further adjustments. Example: 13.5% CO2 (2.6% O2). 3. Increase the air to reduce CO2 by 1 to 2 percentage points. (O2 will be increased by approximately 1.4 to 2.7 percentage points.) Example: Reduce CO2 from 13.5% to 11.5%. (O2 2.6% to 5.3%) 4. Recheck smoke level. It should be zero or 1. This procedure provides a margin of reserve air to accommodate variable conditions. If the draft level has to be changed, recheck the smoke and CO2 levels. Adjust the burner air if necessary. Once combustion is set, lock air regulator knob into place, by pressing down on regulator knob. 21

23 System Maintenance This equipment must be serviced only by a qualified service agency. The appropriate test instruments must be used. Failure to do so could result in burner or appliance failure, causing potential severe personal injury, death or substantial property damage. Beginning of the Heating Season Clean the primary oil strainer and strainer inside the oil pump. Clean of the inside of the boiler or furnace. For Top Pull oil supply systems only: Pull the check valve and suction strainer out and clean them. Weekly Once a week, open the boiler or furnace door and inspect the head, nozzle and igniter area. If there is any debris on any of the parts, clean it off. When burning waste petroleum oil, observe the soot color. The soot should be white with a tan tint. If the soot is gray to black or if there is unburned oil inside, the burner settings are incorrect or there is a mechanical issue. Make sure the settings are correct and if that does not solve the soot color, shut the system down and contact your Kingbuilt service rep. Once all the settings are finalized, there should be very little build up on the head of the burner and maintenance will be minimal. Every 200 Hours of Operation Check the vacuum gauge on the oil strainer to make sure the strainer is not becoming plugged up. The primary oil strainer must be cleaned when the filter minder reads service (plunger reaches red area). As a general rule, clean the strainer in the oil pump at the same time as the primary strainer. Unscrew T-handles, swing open burner door, and inspect head and igniter. Clean air turbine and air tube. Clean igniter and adjust if needed. Clean the cad cell (photo eye inside burner) grid surface, if necessary, with a q-tip swab using only water. Clean soot out of inside of heating unit and chimney, especially if burning waste petroleum oil. Waste petroleum oil creates soot, while vegetable oils do not. If you are burning only vegetable oils, inspect the inside of the combustion chamber. If inside looks clean, you can bypass this step. Glance at the chimney stack exit while the unit is firing. It should always be smoke free. If you notice any smoke, shut the system down and inspect the head of the burner and the inside of the boiler or furnace. Re-set the time counter on preheat assembly to 0. It is good practice to make a record of the service performed and any combustion test results. See following pages for detailed instructions on maintenance procedures. 22

24 Cleaning the Oil Strainer Failure to keep oil strainers clean will cause loss of oil pressure and poor system performance. Pay close attention to the O-Ring Gaskets. Make sure they do not get lost, nicked or torn. 1. Shut power off to the heating system. 2. Close the shut-off valve(s) at the strainer. 3. Loosen the drain plug located on the bottom of the strainer, place a container under the canister and remove the drain plug allowing the oil to drain out of the strainer assembly. Once the oil has drained, reinstall the drain plug. 4. Loosen and remove the canister bolt, allowing the canister and filter element to drop down. 5. Carefully wash the strainer element in a parts washer. 6. Visually inspect the O-Ring gaskets for nicks, cuts or tears. If they are not in perfect condition, replace them. Place the O- Rings back into position. 7. Reassemble the strainer aligning the internal components and reinstall the bolt. 8. Open the shut-off valve(s). If your oil pick up is from the top of the tank, remove the fill cap and fill the strainer with clean used oil, new ATF, new hydraulic oil, or fuel oil. NEVER USE VIRGIN MOTOR OIL, IT WILL NOT BURN! If you have a flooded oil pick up from the side of the tank, loosen the Vacuum Gauge to allow the trapped air to escape until oil seeps out and retighten. Cleaning the Oil Pump Strainer 1. Shut off power to heating system. 2. Remove ¼ pipe plug from pump cover and allow oil to drain into a container. 3. Remove the 4 bolts holding the pump cover onto the pump and very carefully work the cover off avoiding tearing the gasket. 4. Wash the strainer in a parts washer. 5. Reassemble strainer and pump cover. 6. Option: Remove the oil line from the outlet port and fill the pump with clean used oil or fuel oil. 7. Reinstall the oil line and turn power back on to the boiler or furnace. 8. Immediately after the pre-purge process, after oil solenoid clicks on, press the reset button on the controller for ½ second or less. As long as the control is in standby mode (following a successful burn cycle or reset button held for 35 seconds), the ignition will remain on for the entire heat cycle, and the controller will not lock out for 4 minutes. This should allow enough time for all air bubbles to be purged from oil lines and burner. 9. Resume normal system operation. 23

25 Cleaning Air Turbine and Air Tube Remove air turbine, and clean. If burning petroleum based oil, use carburetor cleaner or parts wash cleaner. If burning vegetable oil, carefully heat surface of turbine with propane torch. Do not distort turbine. Scrape crystallized oil from turbine. Clean any debris or excess oil from inside of air tube. Spray area with carburetor cleaner, and wipe clean. Allow carburetor cleaner to evaporate before re-starting system. Re-attach air turbine, close door, and re-start system. Failure to keep air turbine and air tube free from debris will cause oil to build up in air tube, causing system failure. Adjusting and Cleaning Igniter Igniter should be adjusted as shown in the following illustrations. Clean igniter tips with carburetor cleaner and a rag as necessary. Failure to keep igniter tips cleaned and adjusted properly can cause inconsistent fire-offs and eventual system failure. 24

26 Cleaning Soot from Inside the Boiler and Combustion Cylinder Clean Boiler Walls and Flue Passageways Eliminates burner head overheating due to clogged flue passageways. Maximizes heating efficiency. Every 1/8 of soot inside the boiler reduces heating efficiency by 8-10%. It s up to you how efficient you want to keep your boiler. Clean Combustion Cylinder Keeps cylinder and burner head free of debris, and ensures optimal combustion efficiency Remove combustion cylinder (stainless steel or ceramic fiber) from boiler, and gently tap or scrape out ash. Using brushes supplied with boiler, clean ash from all flue passageways. See illustrations below. Buderus: Push all ash from second pass flue passageways into main combustion area of boiler. Start with top, and work toward bottom. Push all ash from third pass flue passageways into rear exhaust (chimney) outlet. Use shop vac (with bag inside) to vacuum ash from all flue passageways and cleanout areas of the boiler. Buderus: Vacuum out all flue passageways. Remove chimney from rear of boiler, or remove cleanout cover from chimney. Vacuum out ash from rear of boiler. Vacuum out main combustion area of boiler. Hoval: Vacuum out all flue passageways. Remove rear cleanout area cover and vacuum clean. Vacuum out main combustion area of boiler. Critical on Hoval: Hold shop vac hose tight against front of each flue tube. If vacuum labors, and tube seems to be plugged, ram brush through tube and vacuum until tube is clear (especially on 2 nd pass flue passages with 90 deg. bends). This is critical to ensure proper draft through the boiler. Tap on chimney to make sure it s clean. Replace all cleanout covers and/or chimney components. Replace combustion cylinder, making sure that stand and cylinder are oriented correctly. Buderus G215: Stand is reversible. Buderus G315: Small end of the stand goes toward the front of the boiler. Hoval: F on stand marks front. All Boilers: Combustion cylinder should be aligned with front of boiler as shown. All Boilers: Make sure the combustion cylinder is evenly centered around the burner tube when closing the door. Reset hours to 0 on Resettable Time Counter. Close boiler door and re-start. Failure to keep soot cleaned from flue passageways and chimney will result in poor draft, which could cause damage to the system from overheating, or cause leakage of flue gasses or Carbon Monoxide from system, which could result in injury or death. 25

27 Owner s System Checks and Safety Precautions Owner System Checks please read and follow. Properly installed and maintained, your HPC-1 will provide years of efficient, trouble-free operation. Please take care of your equipment by the following warnings provided and by doing the following (notify your qualified service agency if you find anything wrong): Daily Check- Check the room in which your burner/appliance is installed. Make sure: Air ventilation openings are clean and unobstructed. Observe the time counter and perform soot clean out according to appliance requirements. No combustible materials are stored near the heating appliance. There are no signs of oil or water leakage around the burner or appliance. Weekly Check: Check your oil tank level. Always keep your oil tank full, especially during the summer, in order to prevent condensation of moisture on the inside surface of the tank. Open appliance door and inspect the head of the burner for soot or debris buildup on the igniter tips and head. If present, clean off before restarting the system. Observe the soot color. The soot should be white with a tan tint. If the soot is gray to black or if there is unburned oil inside, the burner settings are incorrect or there is a mechanical issue. Make sure the settings are correct, and if that does not solve the soot color, shut down the system and contact your Kingbuilt service rep. General Safety Precautions please read and follow. This heating system must be installed, adjusted and started only by a qualified service agency - an individual or agency, licensed and experienced with all codes and ordinances, who is responsible for the installation and adjustment of the equipment. Have your equipment inspected and adjusted at least annually by your qualified service agency to assure continued proper operation. Installation and adjustment of the burner requires technical knowledge and the use of combustion test instruments. Do not tamper with the unit or controls. Call your qualified service agency. Incorrect operation of the burner could result in severe personal injury, death or substantial property damage. The following could result in fire hazard, severe personal injury, death or substantial property damage. Read carefully. Never attempt to use gasoline in your heating appliance. Never store gasoline or combustible materials near the burner or appliance. Never attempt to burn garbage or refuse in your appliance. Never attempt to light the burner/appliance by throwing burning material into the appliance. Never attempt to use oil or material other than the approved oils in this appliance. Never restrict the air inlet openings to the burner or the combustion air ventilation openings in the room 26

28 HPC 1 Operational Sequence of Events Power from main breaker or disconnect switch energizes L1 on the aquastat, L1 on the burner controller, the solid Yellow wire of the R.I.B. (powered) relay and the burner preheat circulating pump which then circulates the boiler water to and from the burner. The aquastat will make clicking sounds and the indicator lights will flash as it goes through a boot up process over a period of approximately 15 seconds. If the boiler water temp is below the aquastat s low limit set point, C1 is NOT energized and the normally closed circuit of the R.I.B. powered relay directs power to the electric heater and the diverter valve. The water in the preheat circuit then begins to heat up and the plunger inside the diverter valve is pushed down by the actuator which directs the return water from the burner into the preheat pipe assembly. This isolates the boiler from the preheat pipe assembly so that the electric heater ONLY heats the small quantity of water in the preheat water circuit. The electric heater and pump will create and circulate heated water to the burner. If the water temp is below the high limit setting of the aquastat, the aquastat will power the B1 terminal of the contact strip sending power to the red Limit terminal of the burner controller. When the water temp of the preheat water circuit reaches the burner s thermo switch set point of 150 F, it will close and connect T T of the burner controller and a combustion cycle will be initiated. The first stage of the burner start up is Pre Purge. The burner controller powers the orange Burner Motor terminal and blue Igniter terminal. The orange Burner Motor circuit powers the burner s blower motor, the oil pump, the two way compressed air solenoid valve, and on demand compressor outlet socket. The blue Igniter circuit powers the ignition transformer and three way solenoid valve of the compressed air manifold assembly. During this Pre Purge phase, usually 15 seconds, the burner blower motor pushes combustion air into the combustion chamber pushing any explosive or harmful gasses out of the boiler or furnace and out through the chimney. The ignition transformer produces and directs high voltage power through the igniter producing a plasma arch at the tips of the igniter just above the nozzle. The two way compress air solenoid valve is open and allowing compressed air to flow through the black regulator and into the three way solenoid valve. With the three way solenoid valve powered by the Igniter circuit, it directs the compressed air into the attached needle valve which adjustably restricts the air flow lowering the air pressure at the nozzle. Use the needle valve to adjust the first stage air pressure to 5 8 psi for 75k to 350k btu and 7 14 psi for 350k btu and greater. The oil pump powered by the orange burner motor circuit during the pre purge phase runs and produces 15 18psi of oil pressure dead headed to the closed oil solenoid valves on the burner. The excess oil pressure which bypasses the pressure relief valve is directed back to the inlet of the oil strainer. Note: we used to use an oil pump with an internal pressure relief valve which recirculates the excess oil pressure within the oil pump. This was the A2RA 7737 model pump. At the end of the pre purge phase, the trial for ignition phase begins. The purple Valve terminal of the burner controller is energized and both the internal and external oil solenoid valves open allowing oil to flow from the oil pump through the burner and out of the nozzle. The oil pressure will rapidly drop from 15 18psi to.5 to 4psi. Ignition should occur within a couple seconds and combustion will last through the remaining seconds of the trial for ignition phase which is usually 15 seconds. At the end of the trial for ignition phase the burner controller de energizes the blue Igniter terminal, and the combustion phase begins. The ignition transformer is de energized and the arch at the end tips of the igniter ceases. The three way valve of the compress air manifold is also de energized and compressed air is redirected straight into the burner no longer passing through the needle valve. The air pressure at the nozzle will jump up according to where the black air regulator is set. 27

29 Think of the second stage compressed air setting as you would set the oxygen valve on a cutting torch. The more you increase the oxygen the hotter and more complete the fuel will burn. You want to crank it as high as possible, MAXIMIZING GASIFICATION and thus combustion efficiency, but not lose the flame. Slowly turn up and observe the air pressure until the combustion sounds choppy or even extinguishes. Reset the burner and set the second stage pressure to about 3 5psi less than where the fire was lost. On a boiler, as combustion occurs, the boiler water temp will increase and when the temp reaches the aquastat s low limit setting, the aquastat will power the C1 of the contact strip. This powers the R.I.B relay with then opens the normally closed circuit and thus de energizes the electric heater and three way diverter valve on the preheat pipe assembly. The plunger inside the diverter rises and re directs the flow of the return water from the burner back into the boiler versus back into the pipe assembly. From this point forward, unless the boiler water temp drops below the low limit, the supply of the preheat water comes entirely from the boiler. On a furnace, heat energy will convectional transfer from the heat exchanger through the pipe assembly into the water. The electric heater is thermostatically controlled and will de energize the element once the water temp is about the thermostats limit. When the boiler s aquastat or furnace s thermostat is satisfied, the red terminal of the burner controller is de energized ending the combustion phase and starting the post purge phase. The burner controller de energizes the purple valve terminal, the oil solenoid valves close and combustion ceases. The oil pressure at the oil pump then increases to 15 18psi being dead headed to the closed oil solenoid valves. The orange blower motor circuit of the burner controller is kept energized and continues to power the blower motor and two way compressed air solenoid valve allowing combustion air and compressed air to flow into the combustion chamber. The post purge phase typically lasts 30 seconds but can be longer if needed. This length of time is determined by the programing of the burner controller which may or may not be adjustable. At the end of the post purge phase, the burner controller de energizes the orange burner motor circuit and the burner sits idle until the next burn cycle is initiated by the powering of the red Limit circuit of the burner controller by the aquastat or thermostat. On boilers, the preheat system s circ pump will continuously circulate boiler water to and from the burner and back into the boiler. On furnaces, the circ pump and electric heater is powered by the thermostat and thus the water in the preheat system is allowed to cool and is not continuously circulated, only during a call for heat by the thermostat. TROUBLESHOOTING For parts go to: the password is gogreen The best way to troubleshoot a problem is to fully understand the operational sequence of events above. In doing so, you will quickly identify the problem. The first step is to figure out which assembly/system contains the problem: the hydronic preheat system, oil supply system or burner. The vast majority of the time the problem is in the fuel supply system. If the red light is flashing, press the button down and hold it down until it flashes once, typically seconds, then release the button depending on which burner controller you have. Preheat/Control System If the light stops flashing, but the burner does nothing, then the water circulating through the burner is not hot enough to close the thermal prove switch or the water is not circulating. The problem is in the hydronic preheat/control system on the back of the boiler. Check your water pressure in the boiler and add water if the pressure is 28

30 below 5psi. Check the pump to see if it is air locked. Check the auto air vent on top of the pipe assembly and make sure the small cap is cracked open to allow the captured air out. If your system ran low on water, the electric heater may have burnt out. To check this, first power down your system and then close the valves between the preheat system and the boiler. Place a container below the heater and slowly turn the heater out. They are usually easy to see if they were burnt out by low water. You will see a line of where the water was and dark colorations. If this is the case, purchase a new one and install. If it s an emergency with no other back up heat, reinstall the heater or 1 pipe plug, open the valves and use a gas torch, gently, on the pipe assembly to heat the water inside. Make sure the pump is circulating the water through the burner. Or, connect the oil pump to a supply of fuel oil and place a jumper between the T T of the burner controller. You will need to put the burner in pump prime mode to get the fuel oil to the burner. Oil Pump/Strainers If the red light stops flashing and the burner starts up, immediately check the oil pressure. It should rise quickly, 1 2 seconds, from 0 to 15 17psi. If the oil pressure rises slowly and/or does not go all the way to 15 17psi, then most likely the oil strainers are in need of cleaning. Don t forget, there is a strainer inside the oil pump. Have you cleaned it along with the canister strainer? If you have the oil pump with the internal pressure relief valve, A2RA 7737, make certain the adjustment screw is turned in about half way. Make sure the air pressure on the first stage is 5 9 psi. After the pre purge, if you listen carefully, you will hear a click from the oil solenoid valves opening. The oil pressure should immediately drop to.5 to 6psi depending on the size of your heating system and the distance between the pump and burner. Ignition should occur in less than a few seconds. If it doesn t then the problem is in oil delivery or igniter spark. If the burner starts up, produces combustion but quits when the burner goes into second stage, then either your second stage air pressure is too high or the oil delivery has slowed down most likely due to dirty strainers. If your system had been firing fine but became unstable, most likely your oil strainers are in need of cleaning. Igniter Crack the door open about 1 inch, reset the burner and look in from the side to see the igniter plasma arch. Keep in mind, you have 15 seconds to do this before the oil solenoid valves open. Don t worry though, ignition of oil isn t explosive. If the valves open and ignition occurs you can quickly close the door. The arch should be bright yellow, pink and purple protruding forward from the nozzle about 3/8. If it is just a small blue arch just going between the end points, then there is an issue with the ignition transformer or igniter. Make certain the area between the igniter wires is clear from sludge and crud as electricity can carry through it to another part to ground. To make certain the igniter isn t arching out to another part inside the head of the burner, you can reset the burner and open the door so that you can look straight into the end. DO THIS QUICKLY in less than 10 seconds. If there is a great amount of oil spraying out the end, do not open the door as there is a problem with the oil solenoid valves. If you see the arch grounding to another part, carefully relocate the wires of the igniter back into position. Remove any crud that may be causing a ground. Oil Solenoid Valves If the oil pressure does not immediately drop or slowly decreases, then there is blockage between the tip of the nozzle and supply of the oil pump. Or, one of the oil solenoid valves is malfunctioning. Remove the nozzle first to make sure that there is no debris in the nozzle. Blow out with compressed air and hold up to light to make sure it is clear. Use a small flat ended rod such as an allen wrench and push on the pin of the oil solenoid valve and make sure it freely slides back and forth. If your burner is equipped with an on on toggle switch wired to the oil solenoid valves, flip the switch to the purge position and listen for the clicking sound of the valves. Also, look inside where the nozzle inserts and check to see that the pin pulls back after energizing. If your burner does not have a toggle switch, disconnect the compressed air supply, or unplug the on demand compressor, and place a small container under the end of the burner head. Reset the burner and 29

31 observe the oil pressure. After pre purge, oil should run out of the end of the burner. Look inside the nozzle chamber and check the pin position. It should be pulled back. Lightly push on it to make sure it isn t stuck in the forward position and that the solenoid coil is properly working. Internal Oil Solenoid Valve If the internal solenoid has malfunctioned, the coil and the cylinder must be replaced together. The most important thing you must know is that when you reinstall these two items, that the nut that holds down the coil must be very carefully tightened with only hand tension with a socket extension. Be sure to place a drop of lok tight on the cylinder threads to ensure the nut remains properly tensioned. Burner Controller If nothing happens with both valves, then the burner controller may not be energizing the purple valve circuit. Use a continuity tester to check if voltage is present at the valve circuit after pre purge. If there is no voltage, then the burner controller needs to be replaced. External Oil Solenoid Valve If oil does not run out, or the oil pressure drops slowly, then the problem is in the external solenoid valve. With the valves powered up, disconnect the oil line where your copper tube connects to the flexible braided hose and use a rubber nose blow gun and carefully inject compressed air into the line. Make sure you have the door closed so that the oil and any crud end up inside the combustion chamber. The compressed air should push any debris through the valve and out of the end of the burner. If it doesn t, then disassemble the valve to remove the debris. Before you do this, connect power to just the external solenoid valve and listen for the clicking sound of the valve opening. Except for severe gunk build up or exposure to high heat, it is rare for the external solenoid valve to fail. If you can t hear it clicking after disassembly and cleanout and you can t get compressed air to pass through it, then the solenoid valve must be replaced. Nozzle When you remove the nozzle for inspection and cleaning, be sure to disassemble the nozzle. Hold the nozzle with a pair of pliers or wrench on the head of the nozzle. Using another pair of pliers, very carefully loosen the brass stem. By hand, hold the nozzle vertically with the head of the nozzle up and carefully turn the stem out. Be careful not to lose the small steel cap on the end of the stem. Clean all components using carb cleaner or equivalent solvent type de greaser and reassemble. Carefully inspect the o ring on the end of the stem for nicks, cuts or gouges. This o ring must be in perfect condition. Water in the oil You reset the burner, it starts up, oil pressure jumps up and drops after pre purge, ignition arch is good, air pressure is correct but still no fire. Check to see if water or any other non combustible liquid is going through the burner. Watch your oil pressure gauge very closely. If the pressure needle waivers up and down slowly, this is a clear sign of water in the oil. Place a small container under the oil strainer and pull the plug out from the bottom of the oil strainer. Usually if you have water in your oil, it will show up in the bottom of the strainer. If you do have water, because you properly set up your oil tank as shown in the manual, you just need to open the ball valve and drain the water. Then disconnect your oil line at the braided hose from the burner and place your line into a container. Reset the burner and put it in pump prime mode to allow the contaminants to flow into your container. It may take a few pump prime modes to get it all out. Afterwards, reconnect your oil line and reset the burner. Vacuum leak If you go through the same process above and see that the oil pressure gauge is nervous, moving rapidly, then air is in the oil line. Check your oil strainer o rings and oil pump cover gasket. Make certain all plumbing connections are tight and sealed. The oil pressure gauge s needle MUST be solid steady at all times. If you reset the burner and the air pressure does not increase to the first stage then either you have no compressed air to the burner, your on demand compressor did not power up or the air solenoid valve did not open. These problems are extremely rare. Simply replace failed components. If your air pressure gauge fluctuates, then you may have condensed water from your air supply passing through. Drain your 30

32 existing water trap or add a water trap. If the information above does not resolve the problem, then purchase a tech support instance or call tech support to arrange a one on one appointment with one of our techs. Please keep in mind that we have only a few techs for support, so please do not expect immediate assistance. 31

33 Aquastat J-box on Aquastat C ir B u r n e r L1 Hot Field Hot In Here Neutral c u la t o r p u m p Ground Field Grouind Here Neutral Field L2 Here H ea t e r A ct V al v e u at o r R.I.B. Note: The external oil pump ties to the orange "Burner Motor" Pink = L2 (Neutral) circuit of the burner controller at any J-box

34 From J-box T T/3 Sensor Boiler Aquastat L1 L2 C1 B1 Gray = Neutral Time Counter

35 Heating Element From J-box on side of Aquastat Gray = L2 (Neutral)

36 + - Reset Button Time Counter Gray = L2 (Neutral) From Aquastat

37 Taco 007 Water Pump Gray = L2 (Neutral) Power-In J-box

38 Line Burner Switch Load From Aquastat J-Box From Burner

39 External Oil Solenoid Internal Oil Solenoid Igniter Fire Eye Thermal Switch Tw Tr 3-Way Solenoid Compressed Air Solenoid Gray = L2 (Neutral) To Burner Switch J-Box Outlet For Air Compressor Burner Blower Motor