CHAPTER V. Using Plants. Table of Contents

Transcription

1 CHAPTER V Using Plants Table of Contents Page Subject V-2 Learning Objectives V-2 Landscape Design V-5 Florida Friendly Principles V-6 Selecting Plants for the Landscape V-7 Installing the Landscape V-11 Turfgrasses for Florida V-13 Using Plants Indoors V-17 Sample Exam Questions Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association FCHP Manual, V - 1

2 LEARNING OBJECTIVES CHAPTER V The FNGLA Certified Horticulture Professional should be able to: -List personal qualifications necessary to produce good landscape designs. -Describe the purpose of planning for landscape design. -List reasons the horticulture professional should have knowledge of landscape design principles. -List the steps in preparing a landscape design. -Describe and define the role of functional areas of the landscape. -Describe the roles of tree and shrub plantings in the landscape. -Describe the roles of entrance and corner plantings. -Describe the importance of a Florida Friendly Landscape. -Describe the two aspects of plant selection. -Describe the role of color in landscape plantings. -Define texture and describe the role of texture in landscape design. -List ways to reduce the initial cost of a landscape. -Describe the steps involved in the landscape installation process. -Describe the value of a good lawn. -Name and identify the four grasses that provide the overwhelming majority of Florida lawns. -Explain why selection of the best turfgrass species is so important to having a satisfactory lawn. -Describe the characteristics of St. Augustinegrass, bahiagrass, bermudagrass, centipedegrass and zoysiagrass. -Rank each of the species of grass on their tolerance/requirements for shade, salt, maintenance and drought. -List functions of plants when used indoors. -Describe the lighting and environmental needs of plants indoors. -Describe watering, cleaning and fertilization needs for plants used indoors. -Describe the most common problems of indoor foliage. Landscape Design A pleasing, functional, long lasting, and low maintenance landscape can only be achieved with good design. Good design is both an art and a science. It requires knowledge, artistic talent and the application of artistic principles, training and experience. The importance of landscape design to horticulturists cannot be overemphasized. It is one area that allows a competitive advantage in many businesses. If you never prepare even a simple design, an understanding of landscape design principles will increase your professional stature and allow you to help your customers select the best plant materials. In many cases, your most important job, related to landscaping, may be to make the customer aware of the real value of landscaping. A well planned home landscape increases the living and recreational area a family has at its disposal. In addition, the property increases in value and becomes more of an asset to the community. Landscaping, as applied to small home grounds, consists of arranging structures, outdoor areas, plantings, and other features into useful and pleasing surroundings for family use and enjoyment. Landscape design is simply the planning needed to accomplish the three-dimensional arrangement of plants with other elements, to provide beauty and functional use of space on the property. You must be thoroughly familiar with your nursery s policy on handling landscape designs and landscape FCHP Manual, V - 2 Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association

3 plantings. Some nurseries have separate departments for landscape design and landscape contracting; others may have working arrangements with local landscape architects and landscape contractors; still others may have designated individuals who handle the details of customers landscape needs. In every case, the person interacting with the client needs to be aware of the basic concepts of good design. Design Process The first step in preparing a landscape design is to carefully make a map or sketch of the property to be landscaped, whether it s a full lot, a front yard, or just a patio. Next, a site analysis or inventory should show the location of buildings, walks, trees, roads, borders, plant beds and shaded areas. Windows, doors, power lines, underground utilities, and faucets need to be shown with notations of such things as window height, changes in elevation, areas where water stands, and splash areas from swimming pools. The sketch should be refined on graph paper or by using drawing tools so it is a representation to scale of the area to be landscaped. Site analyses should also consist of studying the planting site characteristics, such as amount of sun or shade, salt spray, exposure, water drainage, soil type and ph. These characteristics will most likely differ between areas on the same property. For example, the area on one side of the house may have significantly different light conditions than an area on the other side. With this basic plot plan and site analysis, many different ideas can be developed by using tracing paper on top of the plan. A novice can even do a good job of design by using the basic plan and getting assistance from a horticulture or design professional. Defining Functional Areas A general arrangement plan should be worked out that will make the best use of the lot and meet the requirements of the family. It is usually better to draw the plan without regard to existing plantings. Major features which are to be retained, trees for example, should be shown. Individuality in landscaping will result from development of a landscape plan that provides a pleasing setting for the home, reflects the personality of the owner and his/her family, and incorporates the needs of the family. Home landscapes normally encompass three distinct areas: public, service, and private areas. Think of these as if you were creating outdoor rooms to correspond with the indoor floor plan. The public area is normally the area open to scrutiny of the public the area in front of the house. The service area usually includes the storage area for garbage cans, clotheslines, compost bins, utility sheds and parking areas for recreational and service equipment. The private area is the outdoor living area an extension of the indoor living area. Family lifestyle will dictate its development. The Public Area Visitors get their first impression of the home and the family from seeing the house as they pass along the street or enter the grounds. The front landscaping should be inviting and draw attention to the entrance. Usually the yard appears more spacious if it is wider than it is deep. A narrow, deep lawn appears restricted. Plantings along the borders, if used, should be placed near the house and arranged to help focus attention on the house. Trees play an important role in the landscape. They are used to stabilize and unify the house as well as to soften architectural lines. Framing trees should be located to soften the corners and roof of the house, to form patterns against the sky, to focus attention on the house and provide shade. This can be accomplished by locating them slightly forward and outside the corners of the house, positioned so the branches partially screen or break the corners of the house. The mature size of trees should be considered in selecting them for landscaping small areas. A large tree on a small lot or near a small house can appreciably reduce the apparent size of the house or area. Generally, small and medium sized trees are more desirable for landscaping the average home than are large trees. Base or foundation plantings serve the primary purpose of providing an attractive setting for the house. The size, proportion, form and lines of the house should be considered in determining the location, size and type Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association FCHP Manual, V - 3

4 of plants to be used. Informal plantings are ideal for a ranch style or rambling house. These plantings are accomplished by using asymmetrical, irregular and naturalistic combinations of plants. Formal plantings are more in keeping with the house that has a formal arrangement of the features of the house. They are made by arranging plants in mirrored arrangements, geometric patterns or other symmetrical designs. Shrubs in the front area should be arranged to focus attention on the house and entrance. They should also soften corners and lines of the house and be in scale with the house and the yard. They should not dominate the house or divert the viewer s attention from the house. Shrubs should be arranged to allow full use of doors, windows and walks. Small to medium sized shrubs and trees should be used around a small house so that it will appear larger. In most cases, the foundations of the house should not be completely covered by plants. Some of the foundation should be free of plantings and show that the house is firmly based on the ground. Entrance plantings should be selected for yearround effects and should be of a height and size in good proportion with the entrance. In most cases, the tallest plant should not be more than two-thirds as high as the entrance. The same kind of plants should usually be used on each side of the doorway of a symmetrical house. For an asymmetrical house, one with an off-center entrance, the most attractive and striking plants should be located on the side with the shortest distance to the corner. Plants on the opposite side of the entrance should be more informal and less striking in character that is they should have less interest value. Increasing crime rates emphasize the important security aspect of functional landscape plantings. Plantings, especially those close to entrances, should not provide hiding places for potential housebreakers or muggers. Further, the placement of trees and large shrubs must take into consideration potential use of these plants to attain access to upstairs windows or porches or to use them to gain access over security fences. Certain plants with thorny or spiny characteristics may be selected and placed to increase security. Making the landscape functionally secure without compromising other factors of design will often require a great deal of ingenuity and professional skill. Corner plantings are used to soften the corners and to frame the house. Plants for these locations should be irregular or informal in habit of growth. Generally, they should not grow higher than two-thirds the distance from the ground to the eaves or second story. Sometimes it is advisable to use a foreground tree as part of the corner planting of a very large house to reduce its apparent width. For a narrow or tall house, plants are placed beside the corner to add apparent width. The corner plant is placed in front of the corner of a house having good height and width proportions. Service Area The service area should be planned to be large enough to contain such elements as garbage cans, compost bins, garage, driveway, etc., for the service and maintenance of the home and yard. The service area should be located close to the kitchen and conveniently connected to the house and with other outdoor areas. Vegetable gardens have traditionally been included in the service area, but a growing trend is to combine them with the outdoor living area with a less formal arrangement. Walks, gates and openings should be placed for convenient passage from this area to the house and to other parts of the yard. Most service areas should be enclosed and views screened from both the living area and the public area. However, the garage and drive will usually be part of the front view. In many cases, a play yard for small children is placed in the service area so the children can be easily observed and supervised from the kitchen. Space limitations and lifestyle changes are forcing many modifications in traditional landscaping. Outdoor Living Area One of the first considerations in developing this area is to secure privacy or limit the yard area since members of the family use the private area more often than other FCHP Manual, V - 4 Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association

5 outdoor areas. It should also provide for recreational needs of the family. One of the first considerations, in developing this area, is to secure privacy or limit the yard area. It should be enclosed with a hedge, a border planting or a fence. A good lawn and trees are important features of the outdoor living area. An open lawn serves many recreational purposes and gives a sense of freedom and spaciousness. One or more trees should be planted to provide shade and serve as a background to the house. Patio plants should possess interesting characteristics when observed close up. Plants that are too tender to use in unprotected sites may often be used in this area. Plants used close to the house or to walks should not have an objectionable odor, thorns (unless security issues warrant their use) or be poisonous. Border plantings are better for large lots than for small; to be effective, they depend on depth as well as length. Border plantings typically differ from other types of separation and screen plantings. Border plantings combine many different species and types of plants to form an overall effect. These plantings also serve as a background for lawns, flowers and shrubs. Separation or screen plantings are quite often needed between the front yard and other areas to define lines, screen unsightly service units, create privacy or the impression of depth of the lot. These plantings should be carefully planned and should be in keeping with the characteristics of the architecture and the scale of the house. Informal plantings, unclipped hedges or clipped hedges may be used as screens. Whether the screen planting is formal or informal should be determined by what is needed or best suited to the house and other plantings. Fences and walls may be used as separation or screening units. A light, open-work fence will be satisfactory to partially separate two areas. Combinations of fences and plantings are often desirable. A long fence may be blended into the landscape through the judicious placement of plantings in front of it. Specimen and accent plants and plantings are probably misused more often than any other class of planting. They should be used to frame or pinpoint views, to provide contrast and to lend emphasis to special features. They should not be scattered over the garden without any real landscape purpose. Florida Friendly Principles Any discussion of landscape design would be incomplete without calling attention to the importance of conserving our resources. The Xeriscape concept was initiated by the Denver Water Department in The word itself is a coined word that combines the Latin xeri- (for dry) and scape (for landscape). Many groups nationwide have adopted its principles of conserving and protecting water supplies without sacrificing beauty in the landscape. It does not mean zero-scape. In our state, the concept is known as Florida Friendly and is based on principles of the Florida Yards and Neighborhoods (FYN) Program, implemented through UF/IFAS Cooperative Extension Service. It is clear that water conservation in Florida is becoming increasingly important. Outdoor irrigation can account for 50 percent or more of the average homeowner s water use. A water-conserving landscape will save the homeowner money on water, energy and maintenance bills, and will help preserve the state s valuable fresh water resources. Xeriscapes originated in the arid southwestern United States and the concept may bring to mind the image of rock and cactus gardens. Contrary to that image, Florida Friendly landscapes resemble lush traditional gardens. A true Florida Friendly Yard doesn t merely offer good looks; it also proves an asset to the environment by protecting natural resources and preserving the state s unique beauty. The first of nine integrated principles of FYN, Right Plant/Right Place, is a major component of plant selection and good design. Matching the plant to the existing site conditions is a basic element of good landscape design and will greatly affect the maintenance of that landscape for years to come. Florida Friendly principles are described in further detail in the chapter on landscape management (see Chapter VII). Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association FCHP Manual, V - 5

6 Selecting Plants For The Landscape Plants should be selected that are suited to the site conditions determined during the site analysis. Good landscape design requires that plants be used to serve a particular function. Selection of plants is divided into two major aspects. First is the selection of the individual plant species and cultivars to fill the aesthetic, cultural and environmental needs of the landscape plan. The second aspect deals with the selection of the individual plants based on quality, size, container or field grown, etc. Publications providing design and function criteria for selecting plants to fulfill specific requirements of the landscape are found in the Reference section (Chapter IX). General Plant Qualities In selecting the kinds of plants to use in the landscape plan a number of factors must be considered. Good design requires that plants be used to serve a definite function. Characteristics of mature size, shape, color, mass, texture and line quality must be kept in mind when choosing plants to complete a plan. If the plants are to thrive, tolerance to the environment of the site must also be considered. This will include the plant s adaptation to shade, nature and strength of prevailing wind, salt spray, soil conditions (texture, structure, water holding capacity, drainage, ph and fertility), whether irrigation is to be provided, and summer and winter temperatures of the site. The size and shape of a plant are very important because they involve the space the plant occupies and its relation to other plants, the house and the yard. A plant s size varies with its rate of growth and age. It may change rapidly with fast growing plants. A few large plants will usually produce more satisfactory results than many small ones. Shrubs should be selected and placed so they serve their intended purpose when about threefourths mature. A common landscape mistake is to select shrubs that become too large for the location. Each plant has a natural shape that may change radically with age. For example, the southern magnolia tree may have a pyramidal shape when young and become rounded or irregular and spreading when older. If a natural shape has to be altered drastically, it will result in a continuing high maintenance situation. Color is one of the distinctive qualities of plants. Because color variations may be striking, colors other than greens should be used for accent. Color should be used in such a way that it does not draw attention away from other landscape features. Warm colors (red, orange and yellow) are advancing colors and are useful to decrease apparent distance. Cool colors (blue, green and violet) are receding colors and are useful in increasing the impression of distance. Color harmony in landscape plantings may be attained by balancing the amount of warm and cool colors, by mixing and blending colors and by varying the distance of plants from the house. The mass or weight of a plant, or its size and density, are useful landscape qualities. The mass of a plant is the impression of heaviness or lightness gained from the size of the plant and the size and density of its leaves and branches. In landscape design, a large plant may be used to dwarf or reduce the apparent size of an object or feature that is located in the foreground. The same type of plant, when used in the foreground of a view, tends to increase apparent distance to the object or feature in that view. Texture is the impression of coarseness or fineness of a plant gained from seeing or feeling it. In landscaping, texture is sensed primarily through sight. The texture of a plant is mainly a relationship of size, number, spacing, and type of leaves, twigs, flowers and fruits. Some comparisons in plant texture include coarse or fine, rough or smooth, hard or soft, shiny or dull, light or dark and combinations of these qualities. All of these growth characteristics are useful in making complementary or contrasting plant compositions in relation to other plants and design elements. The line quality of a plant is the impression left with the viewer by the dominant direction of growth of twigs, branches, trunks and leaves. These line qualities include vertical, horizontal, arching, drooping or irregular habit of growth. FCHP Manual, V - 6 Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association

7 Vertical line characteristics of aralia, nandina and cabbage palmetto can be used to complement vertical lines of a building or to contrast with horizontal elements. Horizontal lines of plants like flowering dogwood and Parson s juniper increase the perception of width. These qualities can be used to contrast with vertical lines or compliment horizontal lines. The irregular lines of ligustrum give little line effect. The drooping lines of some of the jasmines and powderpuff plant are slightly depressive in effect. The sweeping lines of the coconut palm blend well with the spacious view of water and land. The line effects of some plants change with the season. For example, the foliage and branches of Jerusalem thorn give the plant a fine textured and drooping effect during the summer, but during the winter, the stems exhibit a rustic and ascending line effect. Individual Plant Characteristics Once the plants for the plan have been identified and it is time for installation, the second part of the selection process comes into play; that is, the choice of the specific plants for the job. This selection is largely one of number, quality and size. If the selection of plants is not governed by a tight budget, the work is much easier. This allows one to select the best quality and larger size specimens. If budget is a serious problem, then some choices must be made. These might include using smaller plants, using poorer quality plants or a third alternative might be to delay a portion of the planting. When considering alternatives, the desirability of using large size, top quality plant material should be a prime consideration. The most desirable alternative is to have the customer make a choice in favor of proper plant selection over some other expenditure. When the landscape budget has to be reduced, the alternative of installing the landscape in phases will probably give the best overall results. This often is not a viable option, such as when landscaping a new home must occur before closing on a purchase. If a compromise must be made between size and quality, the option for better quality is the best choice. Installing the Landscape Often, as a horticulturist, you will need to assist your customer by providing information on proper installation of the appropriate plants for a simple landscape plan. Once the customer has been informed, they may decide the job is too big for them, or simply your professional approach may convince them the job would be better done by your nursery or landscape business. Proper installation is important to the endurance of a good design. Success of landscape plantings depends upon an orderly process of site analysis, plant selection, site preparation, planting procedures and post-planting care. Plantings properly incorporated into an overall design create a landscape that is beautiful and functional. Plant Selection Plants should be inspected closely and only quality plants selected. Do not purchase plants with an unhealthy appearance or with weak, poorly formed, scarred or cracked trunks or branches. Do not purchase trees with main double leaders or with branches clustered together on the trunk. Poorly distributed branches on the main stem usually result in weak or leggy plants that should be avoided. Leaves of abnormal size or with excessive yellowing are an indication of a plant health problem. Plants should be examined for insects, diseases, and mechanical damage. The root system of a container-grown plant should be well established so that the root ball stays intact when the container is removed; however, the plant should not be root-bound. Root-bound plants have a mass of roots circling near the outside surface of the container medium and may present difficulty in establishment in the landscape. Roots should be distributed throughout the container medium and not protruding outside the container or penetrating into the ground. The root ball of balled and burlapped (B&B) trees and shrubs should be moist with the soil firmly held around the roots. B&B plant root balls greater than 18 to 24 inches in diameter should be secured by a wire basket if the plant was harvested from a sandy soil. A broken or cracked root ball indicates the plant received rough treatment during Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association FCHP Manual, V - 7

8 shipping and may result in poor establishment and growth of the plant in the landscape. The cultural and environmental conditions in the nursery holding area or on the planting site are also important. Plants that are placed in an unshaded area for even one afternoon during summer months may have received substantial root injury due to heat stress caused by direct solar radiation on container walls. Dark brown roots can often be found on the outside of the root ball on the side receiving the direct exposure. Such injury will reduce the odds of achieving satisfactory growth and quality in the landscape. Holding plants in areas with 30% - 50% shade will reduce or eliminate heat stress to plant roots. Also, spacing plants close enough to provide mutual shading without injuring branches or leaves will reduce heat stress to plant roots. Stems and roots of plants unprotected from cold or freezing temperatures may also be damaged. Cold injury to roots and stems may not be obvious until the plant is stressed by warmer weather in the spring. Therefore, roots and stems of plants should be inspected closely for signs of root injury or bark splitting. Site Preparation Proper site preparation may include grading, dealing with soil compaction, and managing runoff water from the roof with gutters and connecting pipes. The first operation in preparing a planting site is to grade the soil to achieve the desired land form. Adequate surface drainage that directs water flow away from structures and into the appropriate path of water movement for the area must be achieved at this stage. In addition, soils may be modified somewhat by the incorporation of amendments before planting. Soils can be amended to adjust the soil ph, add nutrient elements, increase organic matter content, and alter soil drainage and aeration. Rely on soil test results to help determine whether ph and nutrient changes should be made. Planting Procedures Planting and establishing plants is all about managing air and moisture in the soil. Manage these correctly and plants will grow quickly following installation. Three of the most common causes of poor plant establishment are planting too deep, under watering, and over watering. Planting in compacted soil can also lead to very slow root development. Each of these problems can lead to extensive plant loss, poor growth, or a slow decline after planting. If plants are installed at the right depth and they are irrigated properly, the planting has a good chance of success. As simple as this appears to be, problems often arise that lead to poor establishment or plant failure. Descriptions of planting procedures for containergrown plants, balled and burlapped plants and palms follow. Some plants may be grown under different production systems and require more specialized handling. Container-Grown Plants Container-grown plants are readily available in Florida and can be planted any time of the year, provided proper soil moisture levels are maintained. A common procedure for transplanting container grown plants involves amending the backfill around the root ball with an organic material such as peat. However, a significant amount of research over a range of irrigation schedules, plant materials, and soil types provides no evidence that this practice is beneficial. In fact, incidences where roots remain in the amended backfill soil and do not grow into the undisturbed field soil have been reported. When installing container-grown plants, dig the planting hole twice as wide and only deep enough to allow the top of the root ball to set slightly above existing grade (general rule - 10% shallower than the distance between the top-most root and the bottom of the root ball). In some cases where soil is hard or compacted, it may be advisable to dig a planting hole 3 times wider than the container and half as deep. Do not dig the hole deeper than the root ball. See Figure V-1. The root ball should be gently positioned straight in the hole, shallow enough so the finished grade of the backfill and landscape soil is lower than the top of the root ball. In other words, leave the top few inches of the root ball sides exposed to the air. Fill around the ball with soil and gently firm the soil. Do not pack the FCHP Manual, V - 8 Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association

9 Figure V-1. Planting container grown plants. Figure V-2. Planting balled and burlapped plants. soil. Water thoroughly to remove air pockets. Then, mound soil to cover the sides of the root ball. A plant installed in this manner might initially require more frequent irrigation during dry periods, but is not likely to suffer from subsurface drainage problems. Do not mound soil on top of the root ball, but form a saucer-like catch basin around the outer edge of the root ball with a soil ridge 3 to 6 inches high to facilitate watering. Balled and Burlapped Plants Planting procedures for balled and burlapped (B&B) plants are similar to those for planting container-grown plants. Always move balled and burlapped plants by the root ball only. Never use the trunk as a handle to pick up or move these plants. Care should be taken not to disturb the root ball, as this would severely damage the root system. Removal of all the burlap before planting is not necessary, although the top one-third of the burlap should be pulled back from the stem as in Figure V-2. Removal of woven plastic wraps completely after setting the plant in the hole is recommended. Non-degradable, woven plastic fabrics can girdle roots as they expand through the material. Always remove nylon twine tied around the plant stem, since it does not rot and will eventually girdle the stem if left in place. Palms Palms have a deserved reputation for ease of transplanting relative to similarly sized broad-leaved trees. Palms establish most quickly if transplanted during the spring and early summer when soil temperatures are on the increase. An additional advantage is the higher rainfall normally experienced during this time in Florida, thereby reducing the need for supplementary irrigation during the first critical months of establishment. It is always best to install newly dug specimen palms immediately to minimize stress and possible loss of the palm. If palms cannot be planted immediately upon arrival at the installation site, the palms should be placed out of direct sun and the trunk, root ball and canopy kept moist. Temporarily "heeling in" the root balls under a layer of mulch is advisable, especially if no other means of keeping the roots from drying out is available. The planting hole should be twice as large as the root diameter. It need only be deep enough to situate the palm at the same depth at which it previously grew. Amending of backfill soil from the planting hole is not recommended. If the backfill soil differs greatly in structure and texture from the surrounding site soil, new roots will have a tendency to remain within the backfill. Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association FCHP Manual, V - 9

10 It is imperative that palms not be transplanted any deeper than they were originally grown. The root initiation zone at the base of the trunk is extremely sensitive in this regard, and planting too deeply will cause root suffocation, nutritional deficiencies, root rot disease and frequently loss of the palm. Unfortunately, it is still a common practice for installers to situate specimensized palms at various depths in order to create a planting of uniform height. The decline of deeply planted palms may take several years to become apparent, especially on very well-drained soils, but it can only be reversed by removing the backfill from the suffocated root initiation zone or replanting the palm. All air pockets should be carefully tamped out of the backfill as the planting hole is filled. A berm should be mounded up at the periphery of the root ball to retain water during irrigation. The initial irrigation should be deep and thorough. Filling the planting hole with water to the base of the berm will be necessary 2-3 times to fully wet and settle the soil. Support Staking Newly Planted Trees Most shrubs and many trees installed in landscapes do not require support from stakes or guy wires following planting. Their trunks are strong enough to hold them upright and they are relatively small so wind will not blow them over. However, there are times when trees may benefit from extra support provided by stakes and braces. Trees in the landscape can be lost if structural weaknesses are neglected. Newly installed trees sometimes need to be staked to prevent uprooting or windthrow until they become established. Container and bare root trees often require stakes to hold them firm in the soil until roots become established, due to the light weight of the root ball. Root balls must remain firm and stable in the soil so the fragile new roots growing into the backfill soil are not broken as the root ball moves in windy weather. Many B&B trees do not require stakes to hold them firmly in the soil because their root balls are heavy enough to prevent movement in moderately windy weather. However, some may require staking if the wire basket is removed at planting, or if the roots are not firm in the root ball. In situations where staking is required, the stakes should be driven into the soil outside the root ball to avoid damaging the plant roots. Stakes should penetrate the soil below the depth of the hole to provide stable support. Attachment of supporting wires or ropes to the tree should be done in such a manner that no damage to bark, trunk or branches results. This is typically accomplished by running the wire through short pieces of rubber hose long enough to loop around the tree trunk. Supporting wires should be checked periodically and removed before any damage occurs. All guying cables should be clearly flagged so they are visible to the public. See Figure V-3. Research has indicated there are undesirable effects of staking trees. Because of results from numerous studies, staking is generally not recommended on young trees capable of supporting themselves in an upright position. Staking can actually weaken the young trunks of trees by not allowing them to bend and flex. If stakes are used, the cables should be kept as low as possible and still provide the stability required. In addition, they should be removed as soon as possible usually after the first year. Palm Bracing Figure V-3. Staking a tree with guy wires. Larger palms will require some form of bracing to maintain stability during the first 6-8 months after installation. Wood battens (short lengths of 2" x 4" lumber) are banded or strapped to the trunk, with several FCHP Manual, V - 10 Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association

11 Figure V-4. Padded supports necessary when staking large palms. Mulching Provide a 3 to 4 inch layer of organic material at the base of newly installed plants. Mulches reduce soil temperature fluctuations, prevent packing and crusting, conserve moisture, help control weeds, add organic matter to the soil, and improve the appearance of the landscape. Generally, a 2-foot circle of mulch per inch of tree trunk caliper will give adequate mulch area for newly planted trees. Entire beds of other landscape materials should be mulched. Be sure to keep the mulch layer approximately 3 inches away from the plant stem. Mulches against the stem of plants may increase the chance of stem rots. Turfgrasses for Florida layers of burlap under them to avoid scraping or scarring. Support braces or props (also 2" x 4"s) are then nailed into the wood battens. Under no circumstances should nails be driven directly into a palm trunk. Such damage is permanent, and provides entryway for pathogens and possibly insect pests as well. See Figure V-4. Watering Plants should be watered thoroughly after planting and during the establishment period. Adjust the watering schedule to maintain moist but not saturated conditions until plants are well established. The establishment period varies from a few months for some one-gallon size plants to several years for trees 6 inches or greater in trunk diameter. Water the plants "as needed" after establishment. Water should be applied directly to the root ball by filling the catch basin constructed around each plant. Frequency of water applications should be determined based on soil type in order to sustain the proper moisture level. Soils that retain moisture better than deep sands may require less frequent irrigation. After establishment, plants in the landscape require watering less frequently. The soil should be wet to the bottom of the root system at each irrigation. A healthy, well maintained lawn provides an ideal setting for homes or businesses. Lawns are functional, both actively and passively. Lawns help eliminate erosion, reduce runoff, reduce surface temperatures, reduce noise, cut glare, help filter pollutants in the air and provide recreational surfaces. A good lawn is a financial asset as well because it increases property value. Variety Selection The basis for a good lawn is selection of the correct species for the site. Four grasses provide the overwhelming majority of all turfgrass in Florida. They are St. Augustinegrass (Stenotaphrum secundatum), bahiagrass (Paspalum notatum), bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon) and centipedegrass (Eremochloa ophiuroides). Zoysiagrass (Zoysia spp.) is a fifth type much less commonly planted, but used often enough to be discussed. Cultivars, particularly in St. Augustinegrass and bermudagrass, greatly extend the number of grass selections available. The amount of shade, ph, salt and the traffic the grass will be subjected to are major factors to consider in selecting a grass. The desires and expectations of customers are also important. Do they want to spend time and money to have a lush putting green effect, do they simply want top quality, or are they looking for economy? Regional problems must also be taken into Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association FCHP Manual, V - 11

12 consideration. For example, centipedegrass is an excellent low maintenance grass for acid soils but ground pearls (an insect) are enough of a threat in some areas to preclude recommending it in those areas. The suitability of a grass to the soils and climate of an area will greatly affect the success of the grass. To try to grow bermudagrass under dense shade or to grow bahiagrass in alkaline soils is to invite failure. After a species of grass has been selected, then a choice of cultivar must be made. Cultivars exhibit varying qualities for insect or disease resistance, rate of growth, adaption to harsh environments, etc. New cultivars are introduced frequently for some species, and not at all for others. Choices may be limited by availability; not all cultivars are available in all parts of the state. Decisions about cultivar selection should be based on criteria similar to grass species selection. St. Augustinegrass St. Augustinegrass is the most popular lawn grass in Florida, probably because of its versatility. St. Augustinegrass has a dark green color, excellent salt tolerance, and is adapted to a wide range of soils. Some cultivars will tolerate shade better than other warm season grasses for Florida. The primary disadvantage of St. Augustinegrass is susceptibility to chinch bug damage. Chinch bugs can destroy an entire lawn if not controlled. St. Augustinegrass is established by sprigs, plugs, or sodding. It establishes rapidly and has a rather fast growth rate, which gives it wear resistance and good recovery from damage. St. Augustinegrass requires moderate to high levels of maintenance and fertilization. During the growing season, nearly 12 months in extreme South Florida, it must be mowed at least weekly. Mowing height is directly related to the cultivar selected. Irrigation must be provided during dry periods. Problems, in addition to chinch bugs, include sod webworms, armyworms and a few diseases (brown patch, pythium, take-all root rot and gray leaf spot). Nematodes do some damage, but are not as serious as in other grasses. Mole crickets generally cause minimal problems in well established St. Augustine lawns. Bahiagrass Bahiagrass has gained wide acceptance as a low maintenance grass for lawns, roadsides, industrial sites and other heavy use areas. Its light green color, open growth habit and susceptibility to mole crickets discourage many homeowners from planting it. On the plus side, bahiagrass has few other insect and disease problems and is drought tolerant. A bahia lawn can look nearly dead from lack of water and be green 24 hours after a good rain. Bahiagrass is coarse textured and produces an open type of lawn because it does not produce stolons. It produces tall seedheads throughout the summer, which some people find unattractive and difficult to mow. It is not adapted to high ph soils or to salt spray and often appears yellow in the spring due to lack of iron. Bahiagrass is established from seed or from sod. Bermudagrass A bermudagrass lawn can be among the finest if the owner is willing to expend the cost and effort necessary to properly install and maintain it. The best appearance is attained with bermudagrass by using a reel-type mower. Because reel mowers require more maintenance than rotary mowers, bermudagrass requires the most maintenance for an acceptable appearance of any turfgrass in Florida. These are the grasses used extensively for golf greens and fairways and other athletic turf where frequent mowing is the norm. Frequent fertilization and watering is required for bermudagrasses, and they must be mowed more closely and more often than other grasses. They require at least a half day of full sun and more is better. Insect pests are serious problems, especially scales, mites, mole crickets and caterpillars. Diseases seldom kill bermudagrass; however, brown patch, leaf spots, dollar spot and rust may require chemical control. Nematodes may severely affect this grass. FCHP Manual, V - 12 Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association

13 Bermudagrasses grow extremely fast. The improved varieties, which are the only varieties recommended for lawns, are established by sprigs, plugs or sod. Bermudagrasses grow on a wide range of soil types and tolerate ph values of 4.5 to 8.5. They also have good tolerance to salt spray, but need to be irrigated with fresh water to leach excess salts. These grasses withstand wear better than most grasses and, if injured, recover very rapidly. Centipedegrass The most common lawn grass in North and West Florida is centipedegrass. This is a low-maintenance grass that thrives in full sun or light shade and on acid soils. It has low fertilization requirements. The more centipede is fertilized, the more severe are its pest problems. Centipedegrass has good to excellent drought tolerance, and thus low irrigation requirements. It also has good cold tolerance, but browns off quickly after a frost. However, it has poor salt tolerance, and does not grow well on alkaline soils. It readily develops chlorosis (yellowing) due to iron deficiency. Therefore, it is not recommended for beach areas or alkaline soils. Healthy centipede sod resists weed invasion. Other pest problems are prevalent in centipedegrass. Scale insects called ground pearls and nematodes are the most serious threats. Because of nematode susceptibility, it is rarely used in South Florida s sandy soils. Zoysiagrass An established, well maintained zoysia lawn is a beautiful sight. Like bermudagrass, this is a high maintenance grass that is not trouble free. When establishing a zoysia lawn, the chief drawback is an extremely slow rate of growth. After establishment, this becomes an advantage because mowing is required less frequently. Its appearance is best when it is mowed with a reel mower. Zoysia is adapted to a wide range of soils and has good tolerance to shade and salt spray. It has excellent resistance to wear and makes an extremely dense sod that reduces weed invasion. It recovers slowly from damage due to the slow growth rate. Among zoysiagrass s disadvantages are its high fertilization and water requirements and pest problems. It is susceptible to damage by the hunting billbug, brown patch, dollar spot and rust diseases, is seriously damaged by nematodes and is a heavy thatch producer. Turfgrass Quick Reference If you need a grass for: Shade St. Augustinegrass cultivars - excellent Centipedegrass & Zoysiagrass - fair Bahiagrass - only in light shade Bermudagrass - full sun only Salt Tolerance St. Augustinegrass - excellent Bermudagrass & Zoysiagrass - good Bahiagrass & Centipedegrass - poor Low Maintenance Centipedegrass - best available for North Florida Bahiagrass - good, but heavy mowing required and mole crickets may be a problem St. Augustinegrass - fair (susceptible to chinch bugs) Drought tolerance Bahiagrass - excellent St. Augustinegrass - second best Zoysiagrass, Bermudagrass, & Centipedegrass - good Areas with high nematode populations Bahiagrass - the only choice Using Plants Indoors Florida is the capital of foliage plants when it comes to production but not when it comes to use. We are improving, but compared to much of the rest of the U.S. and to Europe we do poorly on using plants indoors. Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association FCHP Manual, V - 13

14 Just as the landscape extends the outdoor living area of the home, plants used indoors can gracefully tie the indoors and outdoors together. They can be used to provide accents, for focal points, to break hard lines and to change the apparent size of a room. Plants used indoors should complement the interior décor. Unfortunately, the indoor environment is not conducive to growing plants. Adverse conditions of inadequate light, temperature fluctuations, and low humidity offer a real challenge and point out the necessity for selecting plants to fit indoor growing conditions. Light Probably more than any other factor, light will determine the long-term success of indoor plants. Light will also dictate where certain plants can be used. Most species used indoors are tropical understory plants; that is they are native to tropical regions where they grow under the protective canopies of trees. Fortunately, through the use of artificial lights we can create areas almost anywhere for successful indoor plant use. The light for most foliage plants should be indirect or filtered and is best provided near windows. Supplemental light needs to be provided to use plants in dark corners or dark rooms. Select plants for indoor use that will do best in the light of the intended area of use. If the intensity of the light reaching the plant is greater on one side of the plant, the plant will tend to grow towards the light source. One sided growth can be avoided by turning the plant every time you water. Temperature A day temperature of 65 o to 75 o F and approximately 10 o F lower at night is satisfactory for most plants. The 10-degree drop at night enables plants to build new tissues. Plants grown in continuously high temperatures often become spindly and less resistant to disease and insect attack. A sudden temperature drop can also injure plants; temperatures below 50 o F for extended periods may cause permanent damage to many plants. Wilting often results, followed by yellowing of leaves, and then leaf drop. Avoid placing plants in hot or cold spots. Few FCHP Manual, V - 14 plants do well on top of a television set and almost none will survive the blast from a heating or air conditioning vent. Humidity Most plants grow best at a relative humidity of 40% to 60%. Unfortunately, the average humidity indoors is well below 40%, especially during winter months when heating systems are operating. When the surrounding air is dry, plants will often lose water from leaf tissues at a faster rate than can be absorbed through the root system. When this occurs, leaf tips become brown and flowering plants may lose flower buds. Installation of an inexpensive humidifier can increase indoor humidity levels. Humidity in the vicinity of plants can be improved by placing potted plants on a 2 to 3 inch bed of wet gravel. Water evaporating from the gravel increases the humidity around plants. The bottom of the plant pot should never be in or under the water in the gravel bed, since this will cause a waterlogged soil and may result in root damage. Plants will also furnish their own humidity when many are placed close together. Air Circulation Good air circulation is necessary to the well being of plants. However, plants should be placed in draft-free locations. Areas where cross currents of air occur are not considered good for indoor plants. Clean, gas-free air is desirable for growing plants. Escaping gas from stoves and furnaces is sufficient to kill plants. Watering One common cause of indoor plant death is improper watering. When the soil remains saturated, root systems are unable to function properly because of lack of oxygen in the soil. The amount and frequency of watering depends on the potting mixture, pot type and size, plant species and size, stage of growth, and humidity level. The general rule is to water when necessary. The following methods may be used to determine when to water: Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association