Extension Gardener Class 7: Caring for Landscapes

Transcription

1 Extension Gardener Class 7: Caring for Landscapes

2 Today s Class Understanding the soil test report Fertilization Plant Establishment Watering Mulch Pruning

3 Final Classes May 13/14 Diagnosing plant problems Insects Diseases Environmental and man-made problems May 20/21 Managing pests, including ticks, deer and weeds! Cultural methods Encouraging beneficials Pesticides: natural and synthetic

4 The Soil Test Report Enter last name that the samples were submitted under This will generate a list - select your name and click on Search Click on New Report in the PDF File column

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6 Soil Test Report Sample ID what you entered Crop 1 what you plan to grow

7 Lime Recommendation ph level Actual number and shows where your ph is in comparison to target range (based on soil type and what you intend to grow) Lime recommendation for dolomitic or agricultural/garden lime, pounds per 1000 square feet

8 Why ph is important ideal for most plants Changes in ph affect nutrient availability Can limit root growth under extremely acidic conditions Most native Piedmont soils are acidic, below 6.0

9 Should You Alter ph? Lime raises ph only add lime if recommended; add agricultural or dolomitic lime Till lime into the soil before planting or surface apply in fall Sulfur lowers ph consider adding if ph over 7.0 and plants show micronutrient deficiency symptoms Contains elemental sulfur and gypsum (Calcium Sulfate)

10 Micronutrient Deficiency Zinc Magnesium Iron Epsom Salts = Magnesium sulfate, lowers ph and provides Mg and S, two nutrients that are often deficient at higher ph apply 2-3 times a season

11 Fertilizer Recommendation Phosphorous (P-I) and Potassium Index (K-I) between 50 and 70 is ideal, less than 50 fertilizer recommended; over 50 no economic benefit of adding more Fertilizer Recommendation in pounds per 1000 square feet Notice, there is no Nitrogen (N) index

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13 1000 square feet To determine area (sq. ft.) of a rectangular area, multiply length x width 50 feet 20 ft 50 x 20 = 1000 sq. ft. If your area is less than 1000 sq. ft., divide rate: If only 500 sq. ft., divide by 2 If only 333 sq. ft., divide by 3 If only 100 sq. ft., divide by 10

14 Can t Find The Recommended Analysis? 1. Find something with similar ratio, for example, is a 1:2:1 fertilizer and adjust rate accordingly 2. Use a complete fertilizer but always base application rate on Nitrogen eg., if you have (Plant-tone), apply 20 lbs/ 1000 sq. ft. Add additional nutrients with specialized fertilizers if needed

15 To determine lbs of actual nutrients supplied, multiply rate (lbs) by % nutrient 20 lbs of provides: N = 20 x.05 = 1 lb of nitrogen P = 20 x.03 = 0.6 lbs of phosphorus K = 20 x.03 = 0.6 lb of potassium 20 lbs provides: N = 20 x.05 = 1 lb of nitrogen P = 20 x.10 = 2 lbs of phosphorus K = 20 x.05 = 1 lb of potassium Need more phosphorus!

16 Adding Phosphorus: Bone Meal lbs of phosphorus for every 100 lbs of fertilizer = 10% or 0.10 We need additional 1.4 lbs per 1000 sq. ft. Divide 10 into 140 (or 0.1 into 1.4) 140/10 = 14 lbs bone meal to provide additional 1.4 lbs of phosphorus

17 Mixing Your Own Fertilizer You can custom blend your own fertilizer with individual nutrients Dried Blood is 12% nitrogen, To determine how much is needed per 1000 sq. ft. to supply 1 lb of nitrogen, divide 12 into 100: 100/12 = 8.3 lbs

18 Triple Super Phosphate is 45% P, How much is needed per 1000 sq ft to supply 2 lbs of P? Divide 45 into /45 = 4.4 lbs

19 Muriate of Potash is 60% P, How much is needed per 1000 sq ft to supply 1 lbs of K? Divide 60 into /60 = 1.67 lbs

20 Equivalent to 20 lbs of lbs of blood meal (12-0-0) 4.4 lbs of triple super phosphate (0-45-0) 1.67 lbs of muriate of potash (0-0-60)

21 Or Keep It Simple... Many people opt to use a complete fertilizer and base rate on Nitrogen only Eg: Osmocote, To apply 1 lb of N, 100/14 = 7 lbs per 1000 sq ft Only get ½ phosphorus needed but will build that up with future applications Check label for application rates per individual plant

22 If Need Nitrogen Only Find a product that contains only Nitrogen Analysis will be # Target application rate is 1.0 lb Nitrogen Blood Meal is 12% nitrogen, To determine how much is needed per 1000 sq. ft. to supply 1 lb of nitrogen, divide 12 into 100: 100/12 = 8.3 lbs

23 Additional Information: HM% HM% - humic matter Measure of chemically active fraction NOT total organic matter Used to determine lime recommendation

24 Additional Information: W/V W/V = Weight/Volume over 1.5 = very sandy soil (sand is heavy) Under 0.5 = lots of organic matter Clay typically in between

25 Cation Exchange Capacity CEC Measure of soil s capacity to hold nutrients Increases as organic matter, ph, and clay content increase Sandy soils lower, eg. 2.0 Organic/Clay soils higher, eg. 25 Organic matter increases CEC

26 Additional Information: Mn, Zn, Cu, S Manganese, Zinc, Copper indices (Mn-I, Zn-I, Cu-I) Ideal range 25-50; if ph over 6.0 less available to plants; If ph under 5.0 may become toxic to plants Sulfur (S-I) ideal at ph 6.0 or lower; Sulfur lowers ph

27 Fertilizing When? Apply in early spring (March) if needed Use slow release fertilizer Natural or synthetic time release Miracle-Gro (and other liquid fertilizers) are not a good way to fertilizer trees, shrubs, and perennials Liquid fertilizers and spikes are not an effective way to feed trees and shrubs!

28 Where to Fertilize In the root zone: Majority of roots are within 2-3 of dripline (edge of canopy) = broadcast fertilizer here!

29 Exception Newly planted trees and shrubs Avoid nitrogen application during first year Mix phosphorus, potassium and lime in when preparing the soil

30 Planting Trees and Shrubs Fall is best time! Optimum root growth in fall and early spring (soil temps 40-70) Lower temperatures, shorter days favor root growth over shoot growth Fall planting = more established roots for summer Roots are the most important part!

31 Prepare Beds, Not Holes! Better to plant in prepared beds rather than single plants If planting a single specimen plant, prepare an area at least 5 x 5 Bed Single Plant

32 Tree Roots Grow out, not deep: Extend 3x or more the width of the canopy Feeder roots are in top 6-12 of the soil So are grass roots: extremely competitive Canopy

33 The roots of this tree are competing with grass for nutrients and water this competition can reduce growth rate by ½. The trunk is also exposed to trimmers and mowers that can cause fatal injuries!

34 Ring Barking

35 Planting Hole Within Bed 2-3 times width of root ball Never deeper than root ball Usually want root ball a few inches high

36 Planting Woody Plants Always check for circling roots! Cut through circling roots and break up the root system of root bound plants If not cut, circling roots will continue to circle and may eventually girdle trees Root Bound!

37 Circling roots Healthy root system

38 Easy to Fix!

39 Too Deep: How Can You Tell? It is easy to dig too deep Measure root ball before planting Gauge level before filling hole

40 TOO DEEP! - add soil to bottom of hole

41 Final Grade Never deeper than root ball At soil level or a few inches high especially in heavy clay

42 Care After Planting Do NOT prune at planting this can actually do more harm than good Trunk wraps are not necessary! Watering is most important thing you can do to help newly planted trees establish! Trunk Wrap

43 Are larger trees better? Smaller trees (less than 2 diameter) take less time and water to establish Growth rate of small trees is significantly greater than when the same species is planted at a larger size Unless plenty of water can be supplied, it is better to plant smaller trees

44 Watering Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs Water 1-2/week for first few weeks if it does not rain No need to water through winter For first growing season, water once a week if no rainfall, April Oct. Tree Gator slowly releases water to the root zone over several hours

45 Water Appropriately Water slowly to allow water to soak in Soaker hoses Bucket with holes in bottom

46 Soaker Hose

47 Irrigation typically not needed for established trees, shrubs, perennials Drip irrigation great for landscape beds Uses 30% - 50% less Does not wet foliage Irrigation systems supplement rainfall, not replace it! Irrigation

48 Harvest Rainwater Cistern Can add pump or rely on gravity Rain Barrels

49 Mulch! BENEFITS: Conserves soil moisture Keeps soil cool Prevents annual weeds Slowly adds organic matter to the soil (if organic mulch) Keeps mowers and weed trimmers (and grass) away from tree trunks!!

50 Mulching Basics Apply 2 4 out to dripline (canopy edge) Over 4 can become hydrophobic = repel water Remove excess mulch when over 4 Can be done anytime Don t pile around base of woody plants

51 Volcano Mulching Mulch against trunk can encourage diseases and insects as well as suffocate tree roots and repel water.

52 Mulch Materials: Pine Straw Easy to transport bales Tricky to spread around annuals and small plants Looses color quickly Stays in place fairly well Only minor effect on soil ph over time Highly flammable!

53 Mulch Materials: Pine Bark Loose mulch allows more water to evaporate from soil Floats not good for areas that flood Available in multiple size chips/nuggets Ground pine bark = good for annuals and as soil amendment Minor effect on soil ph over time

54 Mulch Materials: Hardwood Bark Triple Shredded Dyed Mulches: Iron based dyes Knits together tightly holds more moisture in soil than pine bark Stays in place better than pine bark Releases Calcium can raise ph over time Nuisance fungi can be a problem

55 Nuisance Fungi on Mulch Stink Horns Slime Mold, aka Dog Vomit More common in hardwood mulch no treatment, do not cause damage. Water mulch well when first apply only use aged material, never fresh chips or sawdust

56 Mulch Materials: Inorganic Stone, crushed brick, recycled tires Do not add organic matter to soil Difficult to remove stays in place! Landscape fabrics help to keep soil separate Debris builds up in over time Main attraction: do not have to continually reapply

57 Pruning

58 Pruning Perennials Deadhead Remove spent flowers, including stem Tip cut or pinch back top 2-3 to promote bushiness

59 Pruning Perennials Cut Back Early summer for tall perennials to reduce height, also delays flowering a little At end of season after frost or leave for winter interest Cut back as low as possible

60 Pruning Trees and Shrubs: Why? Keep plants healthy Remove diseased/dead/broken wood Increase air flow Remove crossing branches Increase flowering Increase light penetration Stimulate flowering wood Aesthetics Enhance natural form of plants Keep plants in bounds? Why were these dwarf yaupon pruned?

61 Prune Less: Choose Plants That Fit! Know mature height and width for the cultivar

62 If you re pruning more than 4 times per year, consider replacement! Eleagnus is a large, vigorous shrub that is almost impossible to keep pruned as a formal hedge!

63 Work with the Natural Shape of Plants Forsythia is a LARGE arching shrub

64 Growth Habits of Woody Plants Prostrate Mounding or Spreading Irregular Vase Shaped Columnar Pyramidal Rounded Oval

65 Pruning Tools Hand tools Hand pruners Loppers Hand saw Allow more control Power tools Hedge trimmers For shearing

66 Shearing Formal appearance High maintenance Can be done anytime of year ALWAYS prune wider at base, narrower at top

67 Other Options: Pruning Cuts: Heading = thickens Thinning = opens Use combination of cuts to open plants up and encourage growth throughout the shrub while working with the natural shape of the shrub!

68 Heading Cuts Cut all stems back Promotes dense growth and branching Head back at multiple heights for fullness throughout the shrub A A B B A) All shoots headed back to same point B) B) Shoots headed back at different heights

69 Thinning Cuts Completely remove branches to side branch, trunk or at ground level Opens up plants, improves air circulation and light penetration Controls size yet maintains natural shape

70 Pruning When? Flowering shrubs Spring blooming = after flowering Summer blooming = late winter Evergreens Most require little pruning Can trim as needed, avoid late summer All shrubs Remove dead, broken, crossing or diseased branches anytime Oakleaf Holly requires little pruning

71 Spring Bloomers: Prune after flowering Forsythia Others: Quince, Weigela, Itea, Kerria, Reeves, Bridalwreath and Vanhoutte Spirea, Camellia japonica, etc. Azalea Indian Hawthorn

72 Hydrangeas Mophead Hydrangea Lacecap Hydrangea Oakleaf Hydrangea Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), both mophead and lacecap varieties, and Oakleaf (H. quercifolia) bloom on old wood prune after flowering New everblooming hydrangeas can be pruned before or after flowering! Eg. Endless Summer

73 Summer Bloomers Japanese Spirea Abelia Others: Butterflybush, Beautyberry, Clethra, Roses, Tea Olive, Vitex, Rose of Sharon, Nandina, Crape Myrtle

74 Gardenias bloom on old and new wood prune early spring Hydrangea paniculata, Peegee Hydrangea, blooms on new wood

75 Conifers Require very little pruning Never cut back to bare wood (no leaves) cannot produce new buds on old wood Exceptions: Podocarpus, Yew Pruning generally confined to light tipping, can be done anytime of the year (avoid late summer/fall) New growth will not arise from old wood

76 Conifers Select varieties and place in the landscape thoughtfully Once too large, most cannot be cut back Chamaecyparis Golden Mop grows 6 x6 C. Filifera Aurea grows 20 x 10!

77 Pruning Trees Improperly pruned trees are much more likely to fail during high winds Improper pruning results in wounds that cannot seal over Allows insects and decay into the tree CONKS (mushrooms on trunk) are a serious sign of decay!

78 WRONG! This is called topping and is extremely detrimental to tree health! It promotes weak structure and encourages decay.

79 Pruning Shade Trees Develop central leader especially in trees maturing over 30 Space and balance branches encourage strong (wide) angles Remove crossing branches Remove lower, less productive branches as the tree ages

80 Pruning Small Trees Remove all diseased, dead and damaged branches Remove crossing or rubbing branches Remove inwardly growing branches to improve light penetration and air circulation

81 Where to cut look for the branch collar

82 The branch collar is an area of active growth, where trees can seal off wounds. Cutting into the branch collar leads to poor wound healing and decay.

83 When properly pruned, trees seal over wounds with callus growth, which often forms a donut-like ring that eventually covers the entire wound

84 Where cut should have been made Cutting too far out leaves a stub the cambium will not be able to grow over creating a channel for decay to enter the plant

85 Some species can sprout from stubs, producing weak branches that are unsightly.

86 Wound wood can not develop evenly. Bad cut- called a flush cut

87 Flush cuts lead to decay!

88 Pruning large branches : The three cut method A) Undercut B) Overcut C) Final Cut at Branch Collar For branches over 1 ½ in diameter

89 Tear caused by not using the 3 cut method tree cannot seal over opening for decay and insects

90 What about wound dressing? Not beneficial! Can actually increase decay problems

91 Hiring an Arborist When pruning trees that you want to keep healthy, hire a certified arborist Certification through the International Society of Arboriculture Can search for certified arborists from their website: Under Certification Tab, click on Verify an ISA Certification on the left, then search by zip code

92 Not ISA Certified!

93 Next Week: Diagnosing Plant Problems Morning Wednesday, 5/13 9:30-noon Evening Thursday, 5/14 6:00 8:30