PITTI UOMO SS18 ROBERTO R GROUP LIMITED

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Kristopher Sims
5 years ago
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The central trend of this season s Pitti Uomo was of whites

in large-scale checks, textured checks and an emerging trend

Conversational designs in both woven and print tended

softer, Mediterranean summer look across both print and

1 The central trend of this season s Pitti Uomo was of whites and off-whites with very bright accents particularly in red, turquoise, deep sea green and yellow. The continued trend for grid checks was evident this season in large-scale checks, textured checks and an emerging trend in pastel Bombay checks. Conversational designs in both woven and print tended towards seaside themes with shellfish, sea creatures, ice creams and retro seaside resort motifs. A secondary trend was for tropical fruits and tropical foliage. Silks tended to be blended with cotton or linen for a softer, Mediterranean summer look across both print and woven men s accessories. Standard ties were much more visible this season, at the expense of bows and pocket squares becoming slightly less prevalent. This season s show had a really upbeat, positive, summery vibe!

wide stripes retro in various styles Tie

cotton, linen or blended wefts for a softer

textures, especially for plains and checks

wovens -Checks had a strong presence again,

interlining -Some prints on textured bases

(often on slub or seersucker) but otherwise

years checks seaside motifs -Seaside and

2 wide stripes retro in various styles Tie Overview -Blade widths essentially unchanged, in the range 6-8cm, with 7cm most popular -Lots of silk warps with cotton, linen or blended wefts for a softer look speckled /checks -Noil, Oxford, Natte textures, especially for plains and checks -Softer feel weaves and textures for most wovens -Checks had a strong presence again, in all kinds of scales and structures no interlining -Some prints on textured bases and foulard, Paisley and baroque overprints onto woven designs -However, generally prints are showing a return to printing on classic, cleaner silk bases ombre -Some bold, wide block stripes and candy stripes (often on slub or seersucker) but otherwise stripes less in evidence than previous years checks seaside motifs -Seaside and tropical motifs, both wovens and especially prints, on clean base fabrics, in quite small repeats -Retro 70s prints, especially Paisleys and mediumscale geometrics, now emerging

very short interlining retro-style foulards

and tropical (darker tone-on-tone foliage

men s knits and may re-emerge into ties.

contrasting designs on same piece -Brands to

for classic woven ties in pastel shades and

conversational prints -Fox Haus - see for

geometrical textures,vibrant flowers -Franco

3 Tie Quirks -A few stands were showing deconstructed ties, with no interlining or very short interlining retro-style foulards -Some really unusual combinations of denim and tropical (darker tone-on-tone foliage prints) -Dip-dye and ombré in evidence in men s knits and may re-emerge into ties.. Fiorio textured checks -Juxtaposition of contrasting designs on same piece -Brands to Watch: -Eton - see for trend/print direction Ties with no interlining - linen (left) knitted tie (right) -Eredi Chiarini - see for classic woven ties in pastel shades and deconstructed ties -Silvio Fiorello - see for innovative and refreshing colours -Fiorio - see for classic woven ties and conversational prints -Fox Haus - see for multicoloured stripes, gingham checks, geometrical textures,vibrant flowers -Franco Bassi - see for small foulards, micro-geos, medallions and paisleys wide/textured stripes

4 Bow-Tie Overview Bow-ties at Pitti, this season, were in various sizes with ditsy conversational motifs - in print and woven - being the popular style for SS18. Key look - was the classic shape, which looked great in textured/slubby linen wovens, with an overprint of foulards or all-over paisleys. Prints Printed bows are always key, and this season retro bows were all around the show - featuring mini-spaced geometrics as well as large medallion sized retro shapes - (Brand To Watch: Franco Bassi + Marzullo). Fun-in-the-sun motifs take over conversationals along with deep sea creatures. Stand-out motifs included ditsy crabs, octopus (Paul Smith), sailboats, ice-creams (Eton), watermelon and dolphins. Bright spots - (Brand To Watch: FeFe) Bombay checks started to emerge following a psychotropical feel and coloured with bright accents, and usually in lightweight cotton - (Brand To Watch: Eton). Packaging - FeFe boxes were very well presented featuring a sneak preview of bow.

Pocket Square Overview - Conversational seaside

prints and in hand-drawn repeats - Lightweight silk

stripe bases overprinted with motifs - Nautical

seaside theme (Brands to watch: Harmont & Blaine, Z

borderless - Designers are experimenting with

overlay geometrical designs (see below left) -

motifs, creating striking, unique placement prints

cream, beach hut) and tropical fruit (banana,

5 Pocket Square Overview - Conversational seaside prints stole the show both in more photographic prints and in hand-drawn repeats - Lightweight silk twill and cotton bases dominated with some pin stripe bases overprinted with motifs - Nautical stripes and deck chair stripes continued the seaside theme (Brands to watch: Harmont & Blaine, Z Zegna) - Pocket squares were generally all borderless - Designers are experimenting with digital printing shown in some huge, abstract overlay geometrical designs (see below left) - Psychotropical collages and juxtapositions of motifs, creating striking, unique placement prints - Summer motifs included seaside themes (crab, ice cream, beach hut) and tropical fruit (banana, watermelon) -see below right - Big medallion / neats - bright colourways and navy/white were popular among brands

6 TPX TPX TPX TPX SEASON S PALETTE CORE COLOURS TPX TPX TPX TPX TPX TPX TPX TPX FASHION COLOURS TPX TPX TPX TPX TPX TPX TPX TPX ACCENT COLOURS TPX TPX TPX TPX TPX TPX COLOUR OF THE SEASON TPX *for further images on Pitti Uomo SS18 images please see our pinterest board -

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