Landscape News Articles (from Allen Owings and Rick Bogren)

Transcription

1 LSU AgCenter Ornamental Horticulture E-News & Trial Garden Notes Early November 2014 Nursery, Landscape & Garden Center Updates Compiled by Allen Owings, Professor (Horticulture), Hammond Research Station, LSU AgCenter Edited by Rick Bogren, Professor (Communications), LSU AgCenter Phone ; Landscape News Articles (from Allen Owings and Rick Bogren) Bed Preparation Key to Long-term Success November 7 Cold Protection in the Louisiana Landscape Ornamentals and Vegetables (from Dan Gill) If you look around at some of our landscapes, particularly in south Louisiana, you would think we live in the tropics. Indeed, some winters the temperature never does dip much below the mid- to upper 20s, allowing tropicals to survive. Despite the relative mildness of Louisiana winters overall, severe freezes do occur, and they can be devastating to tropical plants growing in our landscapes. All it takes is one night of temperatures in the low 20s or teens to severely damage or kill many tropicals. Tropical and sub-tropical plants can be used effectively in the landscape, but they must be protected or replaced when necessary. The best idea is to plant a good combination of tender and hardy plants, so that your landscape is not totally devastated in the event of extremely cold weather. Although they are subject to cold damage or loss in winter, tropicals remain popular for the colorful flowers, dramatic foliage and fragrance they bring to the summer landscape. Nothing else performs as well as tropical plants during the intense heat of summer. But using tropicals does mean that we sometimes need to help these plants to survive when freezes do occur. Hardy vs. Tender Two terms are used when it comes to the ability of a plant to tolerate cold. If a plant will endure temperatures below 32 degrees F with no damage, it is termed hardy. There are degrees of hardiness. A plant that will tolerate a temperature of 15 degrees is hardier than one that will be killed at temperatures below 25 degrees. Our commonly used landscape plants, including trees, shrubs, ground covers, lawns and vines, are hardy to at least 10 or 15 degrees and will not be damaged by typical winter weather. Basically, a plant is considered hardy if it can reliably survive winter temperatures where you garden with no protection or, at most, some mulch.

2 The term tender refers to plants that are killed or severely damaged by temperatures below 32 degrees F. Surprisingly, many tropical plants are more cold-tolerant than we give them credit for and will tolerate light freezes where the temperatures dip briefly below freezing. But you do run a risk leaving them out or not covering them on nights when even light freezes occur. Many tropicals may survive a damaging freeze by coming back from their lower trunk, crown, roots or below-ground parts (tubers, bulbs, rhizomes, corms). Since the ground in Louisiana does not freeze, plant parts at or below the soil surface typically survive and this allows these plants to be considered hardy. Basically, a plant is considered tender when it will not reliably survive winter temperatures where you garden without extensive protection. Types of Freezes When freezes do come, they can be characterized as radiational or advective. Radiational freezes or frosts occur on calm, clear nights when heat radiates from surfaces of objects into the environment. These freezes are generally considered light and primarily damage the foliage of tropicals. Plant damage from a radiational freeze can be minimized by reducing radiant heat loss from plants by covering them. Advective freezes occur when cold air masses move down from northern regions, causing a drastic drop in temperature. Windy conditions are normal during advective freezes. Although radiant heat loss also occurs during an advective freeze, the conditions are quite different from a radiational freeze. The temperatures tend to be much lower and are liable to last longer during advective freezes, and protecting tropicals is more difficult. Freeze Terms What happens without protection Frost temperatures around 30 to 32 degrees (little or no damage) Light freeze 28 to 30 degrees (light damage mostly to foliage) Hard freeze mid-20s (kills more tender tropicals, substantial damage to others) Severe freeze low 20s (major damage or death to virtually all tropicals) Catastrophic freeze teens (death to most tropicals) Factors Affecting Cold Injury The most important factors in how much damage a plant receives from cold are how hardy it is and how cold it gets. There are, however, a surprising number of other factors that can play a big role in how much cold injury actually occurs. Make sure good care is given to your landscape during the summer growing season. Plants, even hardy ones, doing poorly or in low vigor are more susceptible to cold damage. Pruning and fertilizing hardy trees, shrubs and ground covers should be avoided after September, as this can stimulate late growth which is not as cold-hardy and may lead to freeze injury. A sudden drop to below-freezing temperatures from a period of relatively mild weather may cause damage even to hardy plants that might otherwise have suffered little or no damage. A gradual decrease in temperature over a period of time will harden off plants, allowing them to withstand freezing temperatures better. This is not true for especially

3 tender tropical plants, as they will not tolerate freezing temperatures regardless of the preceding temperatures. The longer below-freezing temperature persist, the more likely damage will occur. This is because as time goes by, heat stored in plants, soil, walls, etc. that initially moderates temperatures around the plant is lost. Freezes that last 8 hours or more are particularly damaging to tender plants. Where a tropical plant is located in the landscape can make a big difference in how much damage occurs. The careful placement of tender or less-hardy plants in sheltered areas that block cold north winds and trap the heat of the sun can help them survive freezes. Planting in areas covered with overhangs or tree canopies will also help to minimize cold damage. Finally, plants do not feel wind chill. Do not focus on wind chill temperatures it is the actual temperature you need to pay attention to. WATER What to Do Before a Freeze If the soil is dry, thoroughly watering landscape plants before a freeze may help them better deal with the cold. Cold weather is often accompanied by strong, dry winds. These winds may cause damage by drying plants out, and watering helps to prevent this. Wetting the foliage of plants before a freeze does not, however, provide any cold protection. Neither will a layer of ice protect plants once the water is turned off. A spray of water must continue through the entire freezing period for it to provide protection. MOVE INSIDE Move all tender plants in containers and hanging baskets into buildings where the temperature will stay above freezing. If this is not possible, group all container plants in a protected area (like the inside corner of a covered patio) and cover them with plastic. If plants are kept inside for extended periods, make sure they receive as much light as possible. MULCH For plants growing in the ground, mulches can help protect them. Use a loose, dry material such as pine straw or leaves. Mulches will only protect what they cover. Mulch at the base of a bird-of-paradise will help the roots but will provide no added protection to the leaves. Mulches, then, are best used to protect below-ground parts or crowns or may be used to completely cover low-growing plants to a depth of 4 inches. Leave mulch that completely covers plants in place no more than three or four days. Mulch at the base of a plant can remain in place all winter. COVER If they are not too large, individual plants can be protected by covering them with various-sized cardboard or Styrofoam boxes.

4 Larger plants can be protected by covering them with fabric or plastic. Fabric coverings, such as sheets, can get wet and heavy if rains occur. Plastic would be better in rainy weather. However, wherever a leaf touches a plastic cover, it will freeze. Both of these issues can be resolved by providing simple supports under the cover to support wet fabric or keep a plastic cover from contacting the foliage. The structure holds the covering off the foliage, preventing branch breakage and improving cold protection. It need be nothing more elaborate than three stakes slightly taller than the plant driven into the ground. The cover should extend to the ground and be sealed with soil, stones or bricks. Clear plastic covers should be vented or removed on sunny, warm days. The covers will work best for radiational freezes by preventing or blocking heat loss. The extreme, prolonged cold that occurs during advective freezes is not so easily dealt with. Many plants will still die even with protection. This can be helped by providing a heat source under the covering. A safe, easy way to do this is to generously wrap or drape the plant with small outdoor Christmas lights (not LED lights). The lights provide heat but do not get hot enough to burn the plant or cover. Please be careful and use only outdoor extension cords and sockets. If necessary, you may prune back a large plant, like a hibiscus, to make its size more practical to cover. For trees, such as palms and citrus, that are too large to cover, you may at least want to wrap the trunk with an insulating material such as foam rubber or blankets. Even if the top dies, you may be able to regrow the tree from the surviving trunk. For palms, the trunk must be wrapped from ground level to the base of the leaves to protect the trunk and crown. If you are growing vegetables, harvest any broccoli, cauliflower, fava beans or peas that are ready. Freezing temperatures will not hurt the plants but can damage the heads, pods and flowers. Also, any ripe citrus fruit should be harvested prior to a hard freeze. What to Do After a Freeze Unless you are keeping them inside for the rest of the winter, move container plants back to their spots outside. Plants do not mind being moved in and out as needed through the winter. For plants that you covered, remove or vent clear plastic covers on plants to prevent excessive heat buildup if the next day is sunny and mild. You do not need to completely remove the cover if it will freeze again the next night. You may leave plants covered with blankets, sheets or black plastic for several days without harming them, but eventually the covers will need to be removed so they can get light. Do not prune anything for a week or more after a freeze. It often takes a week or so for all of the damage to become evident. Damaged growth on herbaceous or non-woody tropical plants, such as cannas, elephant ears, birds-of-paradise, begonias, impatiens, philodendron and gingers, may be pruned away back to living tissue. This pruning is optional and is done more to neaten things up than to benefit the plants. However, if the damaged tissue is oozy, mushy, slimy and foul smelling, it should be removed.

5 If you don t prune before, be sure to cut back or prune these herbaceous tropicals in spring after danger of freezes is past and before they make substantial new growth. You may remove the damaged foliage from banana trees, but do not cut back the trunk unless you can tell for sure that it has been killed. It will look brown, feel mushy, feel loose in the soil and bleed a lot if punctured. The exception would be any banana trees that produced a bunch of fruit last year. They will not send up any more new growth and should be cut to the ground to make room for new shoots that will come up this summer. Generally, it s a good idea to delay hard pruning of woody tropical plants, such as hibiscus, tibouchina, angel trumpet, croton, ixora, schefflera, copper plant and rubber tree, until new growth begins in the spring and you can more accurately determine which parts are alive and what is dead. Dead leaves on woody tropical plants can be picked off to make things look neater. If you can clearly determine which branches are dead on a woody plant, you can prune them back. Try scratching the bark with your thumbnail. If the tissue underneath is green, it s still alive. If the tissue is tan or brown, the branch is dead. Start at the top and work your way down to see how far back the plant was killed. Cold Tolerance of Commonly Grown Plants These temperatures are cautious. You may find plants will take several more degrees of cold than indicated in the chart. But to absolutely prevent damage, take action to protect or bring inside when these temperatures are predicted. Plants will often return from their crowns, roots or below ground parts (bulb, rhizome, tuber, corm) if frozen back. Plant Agapanthus * (Agapanthus) Agave * (Agave americana) Allamanda (Allamanda cathartica) Aloe (Aloe vera) Amaryllis * (Hippeastrum) Angel's Trumpet * (Brugmansia) Ardisia * (Ardisia japonica, A. crenata) Areca Palm (Dypsis lutescens) Asparagus Fern * (Asparagus species) Azaleas * (Rhododendron cultivars) Banana * (Musa, hardiness depends on species) Bamboos* (hardiness depends on species) Bird of Paradise * (Strelitzia reginae) Blue Daze (Evolvulus glomeratus) Boston Fern * (Nephrolepis exaltata) Bottle Brush Bush (Callistemon rigidus) Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea) Yesterday-Today-Tomorrow* (Brunfelsia) Butterfly Vine * (Mascagnia macroptera) Canna Lily *(Canna) Temperature plant may be damaged or killed 23 to 15degrees or below 16 to 10 degrees or below 32 to 23 degrees or below

6 Plant Temperature plant may be damaged or killed Camphor Tree * (Cinnamomum camphora) Carissa (Carissa grandiflora) Cassava * (Manihot esculenta) 32 to 30 degrees or below Cassia * (Cassia [Senna] species; hardiness varies) Castor Bean (Ricinus communis) Chinese Fan Palm (Livistona chinensis) Rice Paper Plant* (Tetrapanax papyriferus) Citrus (hardiness varies depending on type) 25 to 15 degrees or below Clerodendrum* (hardiness varies depending on species) Clivia * (Clivia miniata) Queen Palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana) Coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides) Confederate Jasmine* (Trachelospermum jasminoides) Copper Leaf* (Acalypha wilkesiana) Croton (Codiaeum variegatum) Crybaby Tree * (Erythrina crista-galli) 25 to 20 degrees or below Date Palm (Phoenix dactylifera) Dracaenas (Dracaena species and cultivars) Duranta* (Duranta erecta) Elephant Ears* (Colocasia esculenta; Alocasia) Eucalyptus* (Eucalyptus cineraria) Fatsia* (Fatsia japonica) Fig Vine* (Ficus repens) Gerbera Daisy* ( Gingers* (many are root hardy) Golden Rain Tree* (Koelreuteria bipinnata) 20 to 10 degrees or below Hibiscus* (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) 27 to 23 degrees or below Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana) Ixora (Ixora coccinea) Jelly Palm (Butia capitata) Lady Palm* (Rhapis excels) 20 to 10 degrees Lantana* (Lantana camara) Mandevilla (Mandevilla) Mediterranean Fan Palm* (Chamaerops humilis) Mexican Heather* (Cuphea hyssopifolia) Night-blooming Jasmine *(Cestrum nocturnum) Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla) Oleander* (Nerium oleander) Orchid Tree* (Bauhinia species) Papaya* (Carica papaya) Passion Vine* (Passiflora species and hybrids) Periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus) Split-leaf Philodendron* (Philodendron bipinnatifidum) Plumbago* (Plumbago auriculata) Poinsettia *(Euphorbia pulcherrima) Primrose Jasmine *(Jasminum mesnyi) Rangoon Creeper* (Quisqualis indica) 30 to 25 degrees or below Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)

7 Plant Temperature plant may be damaged or killed Rubber Plant *(Ficus elastica) Sago Palm *(Cycas revoluta) Schefflera (Schefflera arboricola, S. actinophylla) 30 to 25 degrees or below Shrimp Plant *(Justicia brandegeeana) Spineless Yucca* (Yucca elephantipes) 23 to 20 degrees or below Spider Plant *(Chlorophytum comosum) Sweet Olive (Osmanthus fragrans) Sweet Viburnum* (Viburnum odoratissimum) Umbrella Plant *(Cyperus alternifolius) Viburnum* (Viburnum suspensum) Walking Iris* (Neomarica gracilis) Walking Iris, Blue* (Neomarica caerulea) 25 to 20 degrees or below Washingtonia Palm (Washingtonia robusta) Wax Leaf Begonia (Begonia semperflorens-cultorum) 30 to 25 degrees or below Wedelia *(Wedelia trilobata [Sphagneticola trilobata]) Weeping Fig (Ficus benjamina) * Plants will often return from their crowns, roots or below ground parts (bulb, rhizome, tuber, corm) if frozen back. Cold Protection for Winter Vegetables Although winter vegetables are generally hardy, new plantings may need to be protected from hard freezes as will certain vegetables near or at harvest stage. If temperatures are predicted below 30 degrees F, young seedlings should be covered with a layer of loose mulch, sheets or tarps. The cover may remain over the plants for a few days, but remove it as soon as the freezing episode is over. Even though the plants are hardy into the teens, broccoli and cauliflower heads are tender. Also, the leaves of lettuce and the leaves, flowers and pods of peas may be damaged by hard freezes in the mid- to low 20s. Although protection with covers is an option, the gardener should consider harvesting all mature and nearly mature produce before a major freeze. The following lists will give you a quick guide to the ability of some vegetables to endure freezes. Remember that such factors as the age of the plant, prior weather conditions and the location of the plants are also factors in addition to the temperatures. Less Hardy Protect or harvest if temperatures are predicted to go below the mid- to upper 20s: fava beans, broccoli heads ready to harvest, cauliflower heads ready to harvest, lettuce and peas. Moderately Hardy Will tolerate temperatures down to the mid- to low 20s with little or no damage: Swiss chard, Chinese cabbage, kohlrabi, mustard, spinach, radishes and turnips.

8 Very Hardy Will survive temperatures in the low 20s and teens: beets, Brussels sprouts, carrots, celery, collards, garlic, onions, parsley, leeks and shallots. Louisiana Super Plants 2015 (from Allen Owings) Citrus and Cold Weather (from Alan Vaughn and Dan Gill) Louisiana has its coldest temperatures in January, but freezes can begin as early as November and occur well into early March (sometimes later). Protection of citrus trees becomes important when severe freezes occur. It is difficult to pin point a "threshold" temperature at which it becomes necessary to protect citrus trees. The biggest difficulty in making such a determination is the difference between various types of citrus in their tolerance of cold. Satsumas, for example, do not need protection until the temperatures approach 20 degrees F. Lemons, limes and oranges generally need to be protected when the temperature dips below 26 degrees F. However, theses trees may be killed or damaged at these temperatures if they are not sufficiently hardened with enough pre-conditioning cold temperatures to halt their growth. The length of time citrus trees are exposed to sub-freezing temperatures is also significant. Exposure to sub-freezing temperatures for more than 24 to 36 hours can be

9 devastating. But if the temperatures moderate to above freezing prior to this time, damage is usually light. All ripe fruit should be harvested from trees prior to a significant freeze. Temperatures cold enough to damage the tree will also ruin the fruit. It takes temperatures in the midto low 20s five to 10 hours to freeze the fruit. Three factors are basically involved in determining freeze susceptibility of citrus trees: 1) The type and age of the citrus. Satsumas are the most cold-hardy of the commonly grown citrus species in Louisiana. Kumquats follow with just a slight less amount of cold hardiness. In order from most cold-hardy to least cold-hardy: satsuma, kumquat, orange, grapefruit, lemon and lime. A citrus tree increases in hardiness as it gets older. Trees with larger, denser canopies deal with the cold better because they trap more heat. 2) Threshold temperatures are approximately 20 degrees for satsumas and kumquats and about 26 degrees for all other citrus. 3) The duration of the sub-freezing temperature is very significant. If the temperature is below freezing for 24 to 36 hours, damage can usually be expected. Generally, when freeze injury occurs, damage is inflicted mostly to cell membranes by freezing and thawing. The least cold-hardy tissues of citrus trees are new buds, flowers and small fruit. The more cold-hardy part of the tree is the mature wood of major branches and the trunk. If a citrus tree is gradually exposed to cooler temperatures, a process called hardening occurs and trees become more tolerant to freezing temperatures. Citrus trees are evergreen and never become full dormant, but trees that are slightly dormant (preconditioned by gradual cold) are less likely to be damaged by cold. So, chilly but abovefreezing nights (30s and 40s) that occur during fall and early winter before major freezes make the trees more cold tolerant. Severe freezes taking place when only mild weather has occurred previously are more likely to cause significant damage. The best way to lessen cold damage to citrus is to maintain healthy trees. Cultural practices that tend to induce and maintain dormancy in winter should be used. These methods include no late-summer or fall fertilization or pruning. Vigorous trees may recover from cold injury. Weak trees that are showing disease, insect damage or nutritional deficiencies are the ones most severely damaged and are the slowest to recover after freezes. Seven steps are suggested to reduce freeze damage: 1) Clean cultivation under the canopy of a tree, mechanically or by herbicides, prior to winter is recommended. Grass, weeds and straw mulches prevent heat from entering the soil during the day; therefore, less heat energy is stored in the soil under the tree for release at night. 2) For trees too large to cover, banking the lower trunks with soil or using tree wraps of bubble wrap, foam rubber or Styrofoam will help prevent cold damage to the trunk. This

10 must be done before the first killing freeze and can be left on through the winter. Trunks should be treated with a copper fungicide before wrapping or banking to prevent root rot. Or the coverings may be applied during freezes and removed during mild weather. Although tree tops may still be lost during freezes, a tree can recover if its trunk and root system are intact. Banking or wraps should be removed in the spring. 3) If the weather has been dry, several days in advance of a cold front the soil beneath citrus trees can be irrigated. Good soil moisture acts as a cold buffer, and trees that are drought stressed may experience more cold damage. This must be done well in advance of the freeze. If this is done at the time the front arrives, evaporation may occur and result in colder temperatures near the tree. 4) If pruning is needed, it should be done in spring to allow tree growth to mature before winter. Do not prune in late summer or fall. Cuts should be made at branch crotches leaving no stubs. Prune to maintain a full, dense canopy. Trees need good leaf canopies to cut wind speed through the canopy and reduce the rate of cooling. Leaves radiate heat to each other. Outer leaves may be lost to a freeze, but complete loss of inner leaves is averted by a thick canopy. 5) Fertilizer should be applied to citrus trees in late January or early February. A complete fertilizer such as at the rate of two pounds per year of tree age may be used. Stop increasing the rate when you reach 15 pounds. If using , the rate is one and one-half pounds of fertilizer per year of tree age. Stop increasing the rate when you reach 10 pounds. Spread the fertilizer around the edge of the branches in the area of the feeder roots. Apply a subsequent application of nitrogen when good soil moisture exists in June. Late-summer or fall applications of fertilizer should be avoided as they can reduce the hardiness. 6) Oil sprays used to control insects and mites decrease cold tolerance and should not be used later than August 15. 7) To protect a single smaller tree, construct a simple frame over trees and encase the tree with one or two layers of translucent plastic. This is generally most practical for smaller trees. In southeast Louisiana, such an extreme practice would be needed only on a few severely cold nights. Before covering, the tree could be generously draped and wrapped with small, outdoor incandescent Christmas lights to provide additional warmth and increase the level of protection. Incandescent Christmas lights will not damage the tree even if they come into contact with it. The frame and cover can stay in place indefinitely but will need to be vented. Air temperatures within should not be allowed to go above 85 degrees to 90 degrees F. Venting should be provided on sunny, warm days to prevent overheating and to maintain a supply of fresh air.

11 LSU AgCenter Plant Diagnostic Clinic LSU AgCenter Soil Testing and Plant Analysis Lab