The Globalization of Asian Cuisines

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1 The Globalization of Asian Cuisines

3 The Globalization of Asian Cuisines Transnational Networks and Culinary Contact Zones Edited by James Farrer

4 THE GLOBALIZATION OF ASIAN CUISINES Copyright James Farrer, Softcover reprint of the hardcover 1st edition All rights reserved. First published in 2015 by PALGRAVE MACMILLAN in the United States a division of St. Martin s Press LLC, 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY Where this book is distributed in the UK, Europe and the rest of the world, this is by Palgrave Macmillan, a division of Macmillan Publishers Limited, registered in England, company number , of Houndmills, Basingstoke, Hampshire RG21 6XS. Palgrave Macmillan is the global academic imprint of the above companies and has companies and representatives throughout the world. Palgrave and Macmillan are registered trademarks in the United States, the United Kingdom, Europe and other countries. ISBN ISBN (ebook) DOI / Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data The globalization of Asian cuisines : transnational networks and culinary contact zones / edited by James Farrer. pages cm Includes bibliographical references and index. 1. Food habits Asia. 2. Cooking, Asian Social aspects. 3. Food Social aspects Asia. 4. Food industry and trade Asia. I. Farrer, James (James C.) GT2853.A78G '2095 dc A catalogue record of the book is available from the British Library. Design by Amnet. First edition: August

5 Contents List of Illustrations Acknowledgments vii ix 1 Introduction: Traveling Cuisines in and out of Asia: Toward a Framework for Studying Culinary Globalization 1 James Farrer Part I Transnational Pathways of Asian Cuisines 2 Culinary Spaces and National Cuisines: The Pleasures of an Indian Ocean Cuisine? 23 Krishnendu Ray 3 The Travels of Kitty s Love Cake: A Tale of Spices, Asian Flavors, and Cuisine Sans Frontières? 37 Jean Duruz 4 Umami Abroad: Taste, Authenticity, and the Global Urban Network 57 Shoko Imai 5 Chinese Immigrants and Japanese Cuisine in the United States: A Case of Culinary Glocalization 79 David L. Wank and James Farrer Part II Cuisines into Asia 6 Shanghai s Western Restaurants as Culinary Contact Zones in a Transnational Culinary Field 103 James Farrer 7 Japanese Cooks in Italy: The Path-Dependent Development of a Culinary Field 125 Keiichi Sawaguchi

6 vi Contents Part III Global-Local Culinary Politics 8 The Invention of Local Food 145 Eric C. Rath 9 The Remaking of a National Cuisine: The Food Education Campaign in Japan 165 Stephanie Assmann 10 Knife-Shaved Noodles Go Global: Provincial Culinary Politics and the Improbable Rise of a Minor Chinese Cuisine 187 David L. Wank 11 From Cajun Crayfish to Spicy Little Lobster: A Tale of Local Culinary Politics in a Third-Tier City in China 209 Sidney C. H. Cheung Notes on Contributors 229 Index 231

7 List of Illustrations Figure 4.1 Traditional foods around the world and umami 63 Figure 6.1 The kitchen in El Willy 111 Figure 10.1 The fifth-floor theme of Jinyun Mansion is China s emperor culture 203 Figure 10.2 The theme of the third floor of Jinyun Mansion is Romance of the Three Kingdoms 204 Figure 11.1 Crayfish traders in the Xuyi wet market 220 Figure 11.2 Parade after the grand opening of the International Lobster Festival in Xuyi 222

9 Acknowledgments This research was made possible by a grant from the Japanese Society for the Promotion of Sciences, Grant No , Sociological Research into Culinary Soft Power and Culinary Contact Zones, as well as grants and administrative support from the Institute of Comparative Culture of Sophia University. The collection is based upon a workshop held at Sophia University June 22 23, I would like to acknowledge the generous help from Miwa Higashiura, secretary of the Institute of Comparative Culture, and editorial work by Jason Bartashius and Chuanfei Wang.

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