Slide 1. Agriculture and Natural Resources Family and Consumer Sciences 4-H and Youth Development Community Economic Development

Slide 1 Families, youth, communities and businesses benefit from educational programs, activities, and resources provided by Texas A&M AGRILIFE Extension Service organized under these program areas: Agriculture and Natural Resources Family and Consumer Sciences 4-H and Youth Development Community Economic Development Extension is a cooperative program between Federal, State, and County governments

Slide 2 Collin County Master Gardeners Association For most gardeners, those first hints of cool weather at the end of a long, hot summer are a welcome relief. It s almost as if Mother Nature is beckoning you to put away your lawn mower and dandelion-weeder, kick back in a lounge chair with a good book, and enjoy the outdoor air-conditioning as brightly colored leaves flutter down around you. Autumn is a time for rich colors, deep oranges, reds and gold. Warm colors and bold flowers are especially satisfying this time of year. Set these colors off with purples, blues and whites for contrast and don't forget that the foliage of perennials that flower earlier can enhance the garden, too, with lacy or bold textures.

Slide 3 Review and Plan Color Combinations What Grew Best Plant Divide Remove Additional Beds Change Bed Size Fall is a great time to take stock of your garden and plan for the future. Make note of what you particularly liked this year, the combination of colors that really worked and the flowers that grew the best for you. Look around at what's blooming now, the annuals and perennials that are still going strong, and the chrysanthemums, asters and other perennials that are coming into bloom. Look at your garden through a visitor s eyes. Are you drawn to the garden or is it lost in an expanse of lawn? Be strategic in planning the size of your lawn to avoid wasting water while enjoying a beautiful view. Use a critical eye to determine what you would like to plant to enjoy next year, what plants need to be divided; the plants that just didn t work and need to be removed. Try using a garden journal to write down your thoughts in one place and sketch those ideas. Don t trust your memory to remember all those great ideas you have for next year write them down. Look at the size and shape of your beds. Do they need to be enlarged or do you need additional beds? Fall is a great time to change the size or create new beds.

Slide 4 To Do List - Plant Planting Bulbs Annuals Wildflowers Lift Tender Bulbs Fall is the time to plant spring bulbs. Daffodils, iris, Dutch iris, grape hyacinth and crocus can be planted late summer through early fall. Non-species tulips and hyacinths must be chilled and planted in December and January. Purchase healthy bulbs that are not bruised, moldy or cut. Plant bulbs in well draining soil where they will receive full winter sun (as under a deciduous tree) at 2-3x the depth of the bulb. Add a sprinkling of bulb food at the bottom of the planting hole and a layer of soil on top of the fertilizer. Think about planting winter pansies above bulbs in complementary shades. The pansies will give you color through the winter months and still have blooms when spring arrives. Annuals such as sweet alyssum, snapdragons and larkspur can be sown or planted in the fall to bloom into the following spring. Don t ignore adding a few tender annuals for an instant pop of color (like penta, angelonia, ornamental peppers, zinnias and croton)in the early fall garden. Wildflowers should be sown in September and October for spring bloom. Some wildflower seed suppliers can provide seed mixtures consisting of a number of different species. You have the option of such a mixture or obtaining the species of your choice and making a mixture or planting your selections individually. Most wildflowers have a wide tolerance of soil and ph (acid/alkaline) conditions but seed to soil contact is essential as well as moisture for germination and growth. It is important to provide proper drainage and proper moisture conditions. For further information, go to http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/wildseed/growing.html. Lift tender bulbs. The time to save bulbs is when the foliage starts to turn brown. These bulbs should be dried on sheets of newspaper and then stored in a cool, dark, dry place. You can store them in a box insulated with vermiculite, wood shavings, or even crumpled newspaper. Bulbs to lift include caladiums, dahlias, and black elephant ears. The green elephant ears are okay to leave outside in the ground.

Slide 5 To Do - Divide Divide Perennials Smaller Leaves Fewer Flowers Weak Bloom Stalks Divide your perennials or get starts from friends. Fall is a good time to divide such perennials as sages, lilies, daylilies, dianthus, heuchera, iris and daisies. There is no set rule as to how often to divide perennials. Some may need division every 3-5 years, some 8-10 years, and some would rather you not bother them at all. Perennials will send signals to let you know that they would like to be divided. The signals to watch for include: flowering is reduced with the flowers getting smaller; the growth in the center of the plant dies out leaving a hole with all the growth around the edges; plant loses vigor; plants need staking because they flop or open up; or it just may have outgrown its bounds. These are the signs to look for and not a specific date on the calendar.

Slide 6 To Do List How to Divide Start at Drip Line Replenish with Organic Matter Plant Most Vigorous Parts First Keep Healthiest Pieces Spread Out Divisions To lift a perennial with minimal root damage, begin digging at its drip line. The roots will generally extend that far, so digging there lets you lift the plant with most of its roots intact. Dig a trench around the clump, cleanly severing any roots, then cut at an angle down and under the clump from various points around the outer edge until you can lever the plant out of the hole. For large, heavy plants, you may have to first dig the trench, then slice straight down through the center of the plant as if it was a pie, halving or quartering the clump before under cutting and lifting it. You can usually use a sharp shovel or spade to cut right through the middle of any clumps in order to divide; but some perennials may require that you dig up the entire plant and either pull the roots apart or cut them into sections with either a sharp knife or pruning saw. In general, it is best to divide spring and summer blooming perennials in the fall, and fall bloomers in spring. By dividing the plant when it is not flowering, all the plant s energy can go to root and leaf growth.

Slide 7 To Do List - Shop Shop End of Season Annuals Native Well adapted Extra mulch Shop: You'll also find a good selection of fall-blooming perennials in nurseries. Many nurseries have great end of the season sales, as they do not want to overwinter their stock. It is a great time to add some end of the season annuals to fill in until cooler weather, when your fall perennials begin to bloom. Look for native or well adapted plants. Newly planted flowers will not be as hardy as those that have had a few years to establish a good root system. Give them an extra layer of mulch during the coldest weather.

Slide 8 Caring for Your Flowers Remove Old Flowers Cut Back Perennials Remove Diseased Material Remove (deadhead) old flowers to keep your annuals and perennials blooming until frost. Don't fertilize this time of year to avoid forcing out tender new growth. Cutting back perennials in the fall may be something you would want to do especially if you were bothered by foliage diseases to reduce the amount of innoculum present that may re-infest next year s foliage. Don't be in too much of a hurry to remove dead leaves after frost, though. The untidy foliage can prevent winter injury to your plants by creating a slightly sheltered microclimate next to the ground. Removing foliage can also be a matter of aesthetics. Some gardeners like to see standing perennials in the winter and others don t. Some gardeners believe in cleaning out everything. Many perennials are better left standing over the winter. Some perennials have attractive foliage and/or seed heads and they offer food resources and habitat for birds and wildlife. With some marginally hardy perennials, leaving the stems up for the winter aids in overwintering as the foliage helps to insulate the crowns. If the perennial is a late riser in the spring, the stems will help to mark the spot and prevent any accidental digging in the area that might harm the underground portions of the plant. If you cut down your perennials, do so after they have gone dormant, and have experienced several hard frosts. Cut the plants down to within 6 of the crown. Cutting too close can result in winter injury on some perennials due to the fact that the buds for next year s growth are right at the surface or higher and not below the soil line. Practice good sanitation. Remove all infected plant leaves that might have rust, black spot or powdery mildew from the garden. Clean out any debris where bugs might hide and lay eggs. Diseased leaves and debris from around roses go in the trash, not in the compost bin. Since most home compost piles do not heat up to the proper temperature to kill pathogens, it's best not to put any diseased debris there because it can infect the compost. Infected debris can be burned (if allowed) or disposed of with community yard waste.

Slide 9 Preparing for Winter Weed and Mulch Compost Weed your perennial flower beds thoroughly and edge them. A thorough weeding and then mulch will keep dandelions and chickweed from sprouting in winter or early spring. Add more mulch to the flower beds in the form shredded hardwood or compost. In summer mulch helps retain moisture, keep down weeds and allows the soil to stay cool. In the fall and winter it keeps the soil warmer and is beneficial to root systems. All annual plants that were used as filler should be removed. Compost. When plants and trees drop their flowers and leaves, don t throw healthy material in the trash to go to the landfill. Put this material in a compost pile or bin. Shredded leaves are a good mulch; a simple method is to run over them with your lawn mower. This will give you some good organic material, which can be added to your garden for healthy plants.

Slide 10 Planting in the Fall Reasons to plant in fall Soil is warmer in fall than in spring, and planting now will give roots get a good head start before the stress of summer heat. Nursery plants are larger, and many nurseries have great sales. The weather is crisp, but not too cold to be outside gardening. More nurseries are recognizing the value of the fall planting season and are stocking more plants. Seasonal rains should take care of some of the plant's watering needs. Plant now and you'll have time to spruce up other parts of the yard come spring. Planting spring-blooming bulbs, perennials and shrubs will bring gratification after the long winter.

Slide 11 Perennials A perennial garden is an ever-changing source of delight and hardy perennials add beauty and charm to a Texas landscape. Each season brings new colors and textures in flowers and foliage. As the years go by, perennial plantings mature and interweave into forms more beautiful and surprising than a season's growth of annuals can ever give. Best of all, a perennial garden can grow almost anywhere with plants suited to local soils, temperatures, and rainfall. Perennials return year after year. When established, most spread or self-seed, which gives the gardener the ability to transplant them to new garden locations. When choosing varieties, pick drought-tolerant species that withstand the often exceedingly warm summertime temperatures in the state. Fall-blooming perennials add color and attract wildlife into September and October. Some perennials have long blooming periods beginning in the summer and continuing into the fall months, while other perennials only begin producing blooms when the nights begin to cool during the autumn. Fall is a good time for you to visit other gardens to see what is blooming and plan ahead as you develop your garden. Generally, late-summer or fall blooming perennials are planted in spring and spring flowering perennials are planted in the late summer or fall. New perennials planted in the spring must survive summer heat and stress with very young root systems while still producing enough nutrients to support months of growth and flowering. By planting perennials in the fall, roots have a chance to grow all autumn while the soil temperatures are above 50 degrees, and most of the winter as well, without having to supply nourishment for the busy growing season. Our list is representative of the wonderful perennials you will find in the fall. You will probably identify more by walking through gardens and nurseries. Now let s take a stroll through our virtual garden and see some of the beautiful perennials, annuals and grasses blooming in the fall.

Slide 12 Sweet Autumn Clematis Chrysanthemum Sweet Autumn Clematis (Clematis terniflora) - Clouds of whitish flowers in late summer or early fall offer a scent reminiscent of vanilla. This deciduous vine is fast-growing, drought-resistant, pest- and disease-free, heat- and sun-loving and attracts butterflies and bees. Sweet Autumn Clematis prefers to grow onto something such as a sturdy garden arch or pillar, forming a cascading mound of foliage. It is easy to grow and will thrive and may bloom in shade. Star-shaped blossoms are 1 inch across, appearing from late August to October and maturing to attractive, plume-like seed heads. The shiny green foliage is leathery. Care: Prefers full sun and average, well-drained but moist soil. It has an extremely rampant growth habit that may need hard pruning in fall or early spring. Chrysathemums (Chrysanthemum sp.) Mums and pumpkins are the heralds of fall. Care: Plant in full sun and consistently moist, well-drained soil enriched by compost. They respond to a monthly fertilizer through July. Chrysanthemums are "photoperiodic"; meaning they bloom in response to the shorter days and longer nights experienced in fall. Therefore, do not plant chrysanthemum flowers near street lights or night lights. Don't overcrowd chrysanthemums; good air circulation reduces the chance of disease. Hardy mums will be even hardier with a winter protection of mulch and shelter from cold winds. Don't prune in fall: existing branches offer the roots protection. Pinching chrysanthemums until mid-july yields compact, bushy plants with more blooms. "Pinching" simply means removing the tips of new growth, thereby stimulating the plants to send out side-shoots. Tip: Chrysanthemums should be divided every third spring to rejuvenate them. Divide when new growth appears. Dig entire clumps and separate the plants with a sharp, clean knife or spade. Remove all dead and diseased plant parts. Young divisions will grow much faster and provide a better plant than crowded old clumps. When the new shoots are 1-3 inches tall in early spring, dig up your old clumps and carefully pull them apart. Plant the healthy divisions into newly prepared fertile soil and discard the dead woody parts.

Slide 13 Black Eyed Susan Autumn Sage Black Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida) is among the best border perennials available and is one of our native North American wildflowers. Plants make a bushy, upright clump (height of 2-3 feet and spread of 2-1/2 feet) with a profuse display of brown-eyed, golden-orange daisies from midsummer through the fall. Seed heads have good winter interest. Excellent for cutting and attractive to butterflies. Care: Black Eyed Susan grows best in full sun and can tolerate clay soil as well as rocky, shallow soil. Plants are easily divided in early spring or fall. Tip: Removing the faded flowers regularly will increase the blooming time. Autumn Sage (Salvia Greggii) Texas A&M University website lists the Texas native plant Autumn Sage as one of the best perennial landscape plant choices for Texas. It is valued for its very long blooming season and as a magnet for hummingbirds. From spring to fall, the plant produces a wide range of flower colors including red, pink, fuschia, purple, orange, yellow and white. The hot pink and the fuschia flowering varieties are the most heat tolerant. It grows to a height of 3 feet and forms a clump. A hardy plant, it suffers no serious diseases or pest infestations. Care: The plant is a semi-evergreen and prefers a planting location in full sunlight. It is very adaptable to alkaline soils and is drought resistant. It appreciates a location with good drainage. Tip: In the winter months, prune it back to approximately 4 inches in height to avoid it becoming leggy the following spring. Autumn Sage also benefits from a pruning (about 1/3 of the plant material) in mid-june. Use hand clippers and snip each branch at a slightly different length for a more natural-looking effect.

Slide 14 Mexican Bush Sage Turk s Cap Mexican Bush Sage (Salvia Leucantha) is a great fall garden addition. This downy, bushy, tender perennial produces white or purple flowers from late summer to frost and thrives in our hot summers. Salvias are some of the showiest plants for background plants in fall perennial gardens, specimen plants for large containers, annual borders, and mixed borders. Butterflies and hummingbirds love them. Care: Provide moist but well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade. They do not like to dry out. Give them plenty of room as they can grow to 3-4 feet tall and 4-6 feet wide. Tip: Shear Salvia Leucantha several times during the summer to promote an abundance of late summer and fall blooms. Deadhead if you don t want volunteer seedlings next year. Turks Cap (Malvaviscus drummondii) Gardeners, hummingbirds and butterflies have it made in the shade with Turk s cap, designated a Superstar by Texas AgriLife Research. One of Texas' best loved and most used herbaceous perennials hails from a variety of habitats and is especially welcome in shady sites. Its vermillion red flowers are twisted into a tube showing extended red stamens protruding from the whorl so it looks like a fez cap hence the name. There is also a pink and white cultivar. The marble-size red fruit is edible and is enjoyed by a number of birds and animals. The flowers provide nectar to ruby-throated hummingbirds and several species of butterflies. Care: It will grow in full sun, full shade, wet soil, dry soil, alkaline soil and acid soil, but prefers regular watering. It will reach 4 feet tall and wide if not trimmed back. Oddly, in full sun it may get mildew which crinkles the leaves. While Turks Cap is drought tolerant, it benefits from regular watering, but don t overwater. Self-sows freely; deadhead if you do not want volunteer seedlings next season. Tip: Turk s cap is a great choice under trees (dry shade) where you want some color and lots of hummingbirds!

Slide 15 Lantana Lantana (Lantana camara) grows best in poor, sandy, gravelly soils in hot, dry areas, in full sun or light shade. Multi-branched stems are twiggy and brittle and grow to a height and spread of 1-2 feet. Lantana flowers profusely on new wood at the start of hot weather, usually in July until frost. Bloom colors are orange, pink, purple, red, white, yellow and gold, often with multiple colors in the same flower. Although its leaves are poisonous to livestock and humans, its nectar is a favorite of butterflies, and many birds eat the fruit. Care: Lantana will tolerate light shade, but blooms best in full sun and poor, gravelly soils. Once established, it takes virtually no care except trimming back; it is the choice for those sites in full sun that are neglected or too far from the hose. In North Texas, branches die back in the winter; cut back any remaining twigs in late winter and new growth will usually emerge in the spring. Tip: The leaves are fragrant and can produce a rash in some people.

Slide 16 Firebush Butterfly Bush Firebush (Hamelia patens) is an easy care plant that grows to a height and spread of 3 and blooms from summer to frost with showy red-orange, tubular flowers. In the cool temperatures of fall, the foliage turns blood red. It is a great hummingbird attractant. It has tremendous heat tolerance coupled with good pest resistance. It is a tender perennial, said to be hardy to zone 8, but may need to be treated as an annual in some parts of North Texas. Care: Plant Firebush in full sun. It needs good drainage and is extremely heat and drought tolerant. It requires very little maintenance, only a little shaping or to promote bushiness. Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii) Fantastically hardy sun lovers, Buddleia (Butterfly Bush) seem impervious to heat, humidity, and drought (once established). Sporting long, fragrant, 4-12 panicles in varying shades of pink, red, lavender, blue, white, yellow, and many intermediate shades. Butterfly Bush can get 6'-12' tall and have a spread of 4-15 so it is not for a small garden. Lo and Behold is a smaller cultivar that reaches a height of 36. Fast growing, prolific, and unbothered by deer and pests, Buddleia attracts butterflies, hummingbirds and other birds. Care: Buddleias need full sun and fertile, well-drained soil. They can be planted in spring or fall. Avoid fertilizing Butterfly Bush; too much fertility supports leaf growth over flower production. Remove spent flower spikes to encourage new shoots and flower buds. Water freely when actively growing. In the summer, water if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Water sparingly in the winter to reduce the chance of root rot. The bush should bloom abundantly even in its first year. Prune plants back to the ground in late winter; buddleias re-emerge from its roots in spring. Butterfly Bush flowers on new wood (new growth), so pruning tends to improve blooming. Treat butterfly bush plant as if it were an herbaceous perennial rather than a shrub. Tip: As a tall plant, butterfly bush is a good choice for the back row of a perennial border. Mass plantings of butterfly bush are beautiful, but be sure to have lots of room for them! The natural unruliness of butterfly bush plant lends itself to use in cottage gardens.

Slide 17 American Beautyberry French Mulberry Mexican Petunia American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) is a deciduous shrub. The loose, open shrub grows to a height and spread of 4-6 feet. The small pink or white flowers which bloom from May through July are inconspicuous, but the showy purple fruit that follows will persist through fall and winter if the birds leave any. Care: Preferring light shade, Beautyberry will grow in full sun if given supplemental watering. This native plant prefers soil enriched with organic matter and in a woodland garden is a good transition between large trees and smaller perennials. It needs minimal care once the roots have become established, but will benefit from a yearly trimming in late winter. Tip: Under ideal conditions Beautyberry can become invasive. Mexican Petunia (Ruellia brittoniana) is a broad leaved evergreen perennial. A vigorous upright grower, it will reach a height of 3 feet and a spread of 2 feet. The tubular, petunia like flowers bloom freely from late spring to frost surrounded by willowy, sword-shaped, green leaves. Flowers last only one day, but plants often produce an impressive non-stop succession of bloom. Care: Mexican petunia is a versatile plant that tolerates an extremely wide range of growing conditions, but thrives in most gardens as long as moisture is consistent. It will grow in full sun or partial shade, but best flowering is in full sun. Plants tolerate high heat and humidity well and spread by self-seeding. Tip: A dwarf variety Katy grows to a height and spread of 1 foot and is less invasive, but will require an annual cutting back when the foliage turns brown and tattered.

Slide 18 Fall Aster Mexican Mint Marigold Fall Aster (Aster oblongifolius ) is a herbaceous perennial growing to a height and spread of 1-3 feet. The small, daisy-like flowers with violet blue rays and yellow discs are an impressive sight when in bloom in late fall (September through November). The leaves are fragrant when crushed. It is an excellent selection for wildflower gardens, naturalized areas, foundations or borders and attracts butterflies. Care: Fall Aster is easy to grow in average to dry, well drained soil and full sun. Tip: Some support may be needed since the stems tend to splay apart under the weight of the blooms. It also has a tendency to lose it s lower leaves as it ages; giving it a trim when new growth appears will overcome this problem. Mexican Mint Marigold (Tagetes lucida) is a herbaceous perennial. The upright plant grows to a height of 1-2 feet and spreads to 18. The bright golden yellow, five petaled flowers have darker centers and are a welcome sight in late summer until frost. Being taller than wide, it fits well into small spaces. The plants spread freely; lift and divide clumps every 2-3 years and replant to keep it looking its best. Care: Growing best in full sun, it will tolerate light shade but won t bloom as freely. Mexican Mint Marigold will tolerate hot sun and poor soil if it is well drained and receives regular water. Tip: The foliage has an anise/licorice smell and taste and is often used as a substitute for tarragon, sometimes called Texas Tarragon.

Slide 19 Gregg s Mist Flower Flame Acanthus Gregg s Mist Flower (Conoclinium greggii) grows up to 2 feet tall and has a tendency to sprawl as it spreads easily by roots. The blue, thistle-like blooms, have a long flowering period, flowering more in cooler weather. It is a good nectar source for bees, butterflies and is especially attractive to the Queen butterfly and masses of Monarchs in the fall. Plant in groupings for best results. It is a short filler plant that works well between some of your showier flowers and is a nice addition to fall flower arrangements. Care: Gregg s Mist flower blooms in sun to part shade and is very drought tolerant. Do not overwater, but it does appreciate a drink in long dry spells. Tip: Cut back plants for compact, bushier growth habit. Dividing every two years is recommended to keep the plant contained. When digging up plants, be sure to dig deep enough to get the entire root system or you ll have new plants sprouting through underground rhizomes. Flame Acanthus (Anisacanthus quadrifidus var. wrightii (A. wrightii) From midsummer through frost, flame acanthus is covered with long, slender, red or orange blooms that hummingbirds love. The bark is light and flaky and makes an interesting winter and early spring accent. It can grow up to 4 feet tall and wide. Though the attractive branches are somewhat brittle, it takes well to shearing and can make a dense, low hedge, and works well in the perennial border, or as a specimen plant. Care: This drought- and cold-tolerant shrub will adapt to a variety of soils and does well in patio pots. It blooms best in full sun but will tolerate light shade. This fast-growing plant flowers more profusely with summer irrigation. As with many other xeric plants, rain triggers blooms. Flame acanthus is late to put on leaves in the spring; it can be severely cut back in early spring.

Slide 20 Dress Up With Annuals As night time temperatures dip into the 50 s, replace those worn out warm season annuals with cool season annuals such as dianthus and petunias for a welcome touch of color. Chrysanthemums, flowering cabbages, ornamental kale, and dusty miller, will provide your landscape with color for quite some time after frosty weather arrives. The contribution of petunias, begonias, marigolds and zinnias may be brief but they will still be very beautiful. If you have summer color such as coleus and crotons looking good, you can incorporate them in containers to blend with your fall color. The average date of the first freeze is around November 15. Tip: The colors available in cool-season bedding plants are virtually unlimited, but don t plant your garden with every color available. Otherwise you will end up with chaos-in-the-landscape that is not as effective as a well-thoughtout color scheme.

Slide 21 Petunia Marigolds Petunia (Petunia X hybrida) Petunias are one of the most popular cool season bedding flowers and will bloom until frost. They have wide trumpet shaped flowers and branching foliage that is hairy and somewhat sticky. They are prolific bloomers, although some forms require deadheading to keep them going. Care: Fertilize your petunias about once a month to encourage growth, by working a balanced fertilizer into moist soil. Do not over-water. Petunias are generally drought-tolerant, but check on very warm days and during periods without rainfall when additional watering may be necessary. Too much water will make them leggy with few blooms. Because of their profuse blooms, petunias are excellent in hanging baskets, either alone or as a trailing plant in a mixed planting. Containers of petunias can be placed in strategic areas of the garden, to add color where needed. Tip: Prune back petunias to encourage new growth. Pinch off the dead flower and cut back about a third of the stem. Start with one stem and after a week or two when new growth has formed, cut back another stem. If you cut back all of the stems at once you could risk killing the plant. Marigolds (Tagetes) Marigolds are compact annuals that grow 6-12 in height and 5-7 in spread. The single, semi-double or double blooms from June until frost in shades of yellow, orange, red and bicolor. Flowering may decrease considerably in the heat of summer, but will resume as cooler weather arrives. Farmers and gardeners have long known that marigolds make important companion plants all over the garden. Not only does the scent of the marigold (Tagetes spp.) repel animals and insects, but the root system of the marigold will repel nematodes (microscopic worms) and other pests for up to 3 years. Care: Easily grown in average, evenly moist, well-drained soil and full sun. Do not fertilize marigolds; too rich a diet stimulates lush foliage at the expense of flowers. Marigolds bloom better and more profusely in poor soil. The densely double flower-heads of the African marigolds tend to rot in wet weather. Tip: Marigolds can be dried for long-lasting floral arrangements. Strip foliage from perfect blossoms and hang them upside down.

Slide 22 Pansies Johnny Jump Ups Pansies (Viola x wittrockiana) are short lived evergreen perennials that are grown as annuals in North Texas. Pansies are the top-selling winter bedding plant in North Texas. Mulch well when planting in the fall and they will bloom and look healthy until they eventually succumb to heat in late spring. Small but established plants overwinter better than large plants. Pansies are classic bedding plants, but also look attractive in containers and window boxes. Care: Pansies are best grown in full sun to part shade in well drained garden soil enriched with organic matter. Keep soil consistently moist. They may be susceptible to fungal leaf diseases and are a favorite of slugs and snails. Tip: Deadhead spent flowers to prolong bloom. Cut back leggy plants to revitalize. Viola tricolor is known by many names (Viola, Johnny Jump Ups, Heartsease, Come and Cuddle Me, Wild Pansy). Every flower is three colors that includes yellow, purple, lavender, blue, apricot and white. Viola is pretty in containers, as edging, or as a companion for bulbs. It self-seeds readily. Care: Violas are best grown in full sun to part shade in well drained garden soil enriched with organic matter. Keep soil consistently moist. Tip: For best bloom, deadhead regularly.

Slide 23 Pinks Sweet William Dusty Miller Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus) is a biennial that is generally grown as an annual in North Texas. Growing to a height of 1 foot and a spread of 6-12 inches, the showy, fragrant flowers bloom May to frost and come in pink, red, white and bi-colors. It may re-seed and remain in the garden for many years. Care: Dianthus can be grown in full sun early in the season but benefits from afternoon shade as the season progresses. It prefers deep, organically rich soil that drains well. Do not mound mulch directly in contact with the dianthus stems. Dianthus is susceptible to crown rot and rust, particularly in poorly-drained soils, and are a favorite of snails and slugs. Tip: Prompt dead heading will encourage continuous bloom. Dusty Miller (Senecio cineraria) is a herbaceous perennial that is often treated as an annual in North Texas, but because it is hardy to zone 7, many people keep it in their gardens year round. It grows to a height of 1-1/2 and spreads to 1. If does flower, but Dusty Miller is grown for its cool, silvery, wooly-felted foliage and flowers should be removed. Like most grey foliage, Dusty Miller provides excellent contrast and helps transition between strong colors. It is excellent as an edging, in beds, borders and containers. Care: Dusty Miller is easily grown in average, evenly moist, well-drained soils in full sun to part shade. It tolerates full shade, but foliage color is best with some sun. Shear plants back if they become leggy. Tip: Cuttings may be taken in fall for overwintering.

Slide 24 Ornamental Cabbage and Kale Cabbage Kale Ornamental Cabbage and Kale: (Brassica oleracea) Ornamental cabbages and kale are in the same species as edible cabbages and kale but are the result of hybridizing so their ruffled foliage is much fancier and more colorful. Although they are still edible, they aren t as tasty and tender as their cousins. Their leaves give the plants color and interest as ornamentals. Most cabbage and kale do not bloom during the winter, and by the time blooms appear in warmer weather, the colorful foliage is spent. Brassica plants do not tolerate summer heat well, but are extremely cold-tolerant. They can survive winter temperatures as low as 5 F. if they are gradually acclimatized. While a sudden cold snap can be deadly, light and moderate frosts will intensify the brilliant coloring of these plants. Planting when the weather is too warm will result in a leggy, relatively colorless plant and may also mean that you will have to contend with cabbage loopers, which bore unsightly holes through the plant. Ornamental Cabbage: The plants with smooth leaf margins are considered flowering cabbage. Flowering Kale: Plants with serrated or fringed leaf margins are considered the flowering kales, which are further divided into the "fringed leaved cultivars" (those with ruffled leaves) and the "feather leaved cultivars" (those with more finely serrated leaves). Care: Ornamental Cabbage and kale should be planted in a sunny location in a moderately moist, rich soil. Tip: When purchasing ornamental cabbage or kale, look for a plant with a short rosette-type stem. If plants were allowed to become root bound in their pots, they will not get much larger after they are planted, so it may pay to buy the biggest plants you can find, even though they may cost more.

Slide 25 Ornamental Grasses Shine in the Fall Fall landscapes get a lot of visual help from peaking ornamental grasses. Grasses add variety to many types of gardens. Ornamental grasses add two elements to the garden that are not readily obtained from many other plants: movement and sound. Grasses add a significant vertical presence to the winter landscape and are commonly left standing until spring. Grasses provide winter interest, food and protection for birds and wildlife as well as color and texture in the winter landscape. Use grass wisely. If you use too many in the same area, they tend to blend together and look flat. Set them apart by pairing with non-grasses. General Care: Divide warm season grasses in spring through mid-summer when actively growing but not flowering. If they are dormant when transplanted, they won t develop a good root system. Tip: Many ornamental grasses will benefit from a contrasting background. This is especially useful when backing grasses with wispy seed heads that would otherwise get lost at a distance. Grasses look well placed on the east side to catch morning or on the west side to catch the evening light.

Slide 26 Mexican Feather Grass Inland Sea Oats ( Note to speaker: If time is short, the grasses can be shown and not discussed.) Mexican Feather Grass (Nassella tenuissima) is a moderately growing herbaceous perennial that reaches height and spread of 1-2 feet. Delicate, graceful leaves are green in the spring and then turn golden in the summer. Airy beige flower heads (summer) sway gently with the slightest breeze. Mexican Feather Grass re-seeds to naturalize in meadows or on slopes for erosion control. Care: Provide full sun and a well drained soil. Water regularly during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system, then reduce watering. Prune off or rake out dead foliage before new foliage emerges. Tip: Eye catching when planted en masse. Inland Sea Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) Very popular as a low-maintenance shade grass, Inland sea oats is notable for its large, graceful seed heads. Sending up blue-green basal leaves in earliest spring, it can be 2 feet tall and a vivid green by May, its translucent green seed heads swaying in the breeze. By mid-summer, the seeds will have turned an attractive ivory and will turn brown in a few months before dropping off. It passes through most of winter a soft brown, but becomes tattered and gray by February, a good time to cut it back to the basal rosette. A great accent under a tree. Care: The preference is moist, well drained conditions, and a fertile loamy soil. Plants tend to be smaller in areas that are drier and less fertile.

Slide 27 Purple Fountain Grass Muhly Grass Purple Fountain Grass (Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum) Of all the ornamental grasses, of which there are many, purple fountain grass is probably one of the most popular. Purple Fountain grass grows to a height of 2-4 and a spread of 2-3. Though only a medium-sized annual grass, purple fountain grass helps define areas within a landscape and adds vertical height to the garden, making it an ideal plant at the back of the mixed border. The fountain effect of the foliage softens lines between lawns and walkways. The purple or burgundy-colored foliage and rose flower spikes appear in summer, withstands drought and persist until frost. For smaller gardens, a dwarf cultivar is available that grows quickly to a height and spread of 2-1/2 to 3. Care: Purple Fountain Grass is an easy to care for ornamental. It develops deeper color in full sun and tends to lean over when planted in shade. The plant adapts to a wide variety of soils, but performs best in moist, welldrained soil. Taller varieties may require staking in wet soils. Established plants require little more than an inch of deep watering per week. Muhly Grass: (Muhlenbergia capillaris) Muhly Grass is an evergreen perennial; fast growing clumps grow to 3 (in bloom) in height and spread. In the fall, masses of delicate flower panicles create a vibrant rosy red haze over the fine textured, grassy blades. In autumn, this unique specimen creates a spectacular, billowy inflorescence of massed, vibrant pink, airy flowers on 4-foot stems. A new cultivar is also available in white. Muhly tolerates areas with reflected heat, dry sites and poor soils. Once established, it needs only occasional watering. Some make exceptional specimens, and all are great en masse in borders, meadows, and native gardens. It has winter, summer and fall interest. Care: Muhlenbergias thrive in full sun or partial shade in average, moist, but well-drained soil, but will tolerate drought, heat, and poor soils. Tip: For a neat appearance, remove old foliage before new leaves emerge. Divide clumps every 2-3 years in early spring.

Slide 28 Adagio Maiden Grass Dwarf Variegated Maiden Grass Adagio Maiden Grass (Miscanthus sinensis 'Adagio ) 'Adagio' is one of the shortest of the many Miscanthus cultivars available today, typically growing 3 to 4 feet tall (5 feet in bloom.) It is an upright, warm season, clump-forming ornamental grass which features extremely narrow, silver-gray blades which turn yellow in fall. Tiny pink-tinged flowers appear in tassel-like inflorescences above the foliage in late summer, gradually turning into creamy white plumes by fall as the seeds mature. Foliage and flower plumes persist well into winter providing good winter interest. Clumps slowly expand in circumference by short rhizomes, but retain a tight clump shape. Foliage should be left standing throughout the winter for visual interest and to provide protection for the crowns. Care: Maiden Grass grows well in full sun to partial sun and tolerates most soil. In too much shade it is less vigorous, has decreased flower production, and a tendency to flop. Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system. In extreme heat, it requires more often than weekly watering. In late winter, before new shoots appear, cut back foliage and apply a general purpose fertilizer. Divide clumps every 2 to 3 years. Dwarf Variegated Maiden Grass (Miscanthus sinensis 'Dixieland ) is a fast growing herbaceous perennial that reaches a height of 2-3 and a spread of 3-4. The dwarf variegated grass is a striking, bold plant for borders or containers. Its long arching blades are green with broad streaks of ivory. In late summer to fall, plants produce tall, upright stems topped with feathery rose-hued plumes that soften and curl as they dry. Care: Plant Dwarf Variegated Maiden Grass in full or partial sun. It tolerates a wide range of moderately drained soils. Just before new growth appears in late winter, cut foliage back and apply a general purpose fertilizer. Divide clumps every 2 to 3 years.

Slide 29 Trees and Shrubs Importance Large vs. Small Planting Maintenance Trees are the largest and most dominant features of our landscape. There is nothing like a giant shade tree to add value to your home and to turn an outdoor area into a more hospitable place during a sweltering Texas summer. But many people now live in garden homes, townhomes, or other tight areas without an expanse to accommodate a large tree. Large vs Small: There are a number of small trees that are tailor made for our modern landscape, such as Vitex, Crape Myrtle, Rusty Blackhaw Vibernum, Desert Willow, Redbud and Texas Mountain Laurel. Many offer the added feature of blooms. In fact they are so attractive and versatile that even if you have the space, you might forgo a larger tree in favor of a grouping of small trees. Groupings of several varieties of small trees are nice because they add interest and can extend the blooming season for many months. Planting: Trees and shrubs can be planted from containers almost any time, however, they prefer fall planting for putting out root growth. Plant trees and shrubs in the fall and water them frequently until winter has undoubtedly arrived. Bare rooted trees and shrubs should be planted in the winter when they are dormant. This is also the best time to move established plants to new locations. Maintenance: If the winter is dry, trees and shrubs need a monthly watering. Generally the best time to trim trees is during the winter after they are dormant. This is especially important for trimming oak trees. Avoid trimming oak trees between Valentines Day and Fathers Day; nitidulid beetles are active and can carry the oak wilt fungus to fresh pruning wounds. Do not trim spring blooming shrubs in the fall or winter. Evergreen shrubs should be pruned in late winter.

Slide 30 Design Tips for Fall Consider Color Accent the season Use color where you want to focus attention. The human eye is instantly drawn to color. Never use color to beautify an unattractive feature in your landscape such as a fire hydrant, storage shed or trash can area. You will simply make sure everyone notices it, and the color will not make it look any better. Tip: Most blooms are fleeting. For long-lasting impact, also select plants with colored foliage. Look to variegated plants in particular to provide the creams and yellows that match up well with purples and maroon. Use color where you can enjoy it. Many gardeners lavish their attention and garden budget on their front gardens, and this is a wonderful gift to provide to the neighborhood. But don t forget to include plantings of colorful cool-season bedding plants in beds, containers and hanging baskets around the patio and other outdoor living areas. Repeat Yourself. Following a color theme helps lend continuity to a garden. The colors don t need to match exactly, but they should be in the same family. Accent The Season. While the selection of plants available for late-season planting continues to grow, fall still relies heavily on decorating accessories to make a splash. Enliven an entryway with gourds, pumpkins, dried flower arrangements, golden cornstalks, and potted flowers. Tip: Fall is a great time to experiment with temporary decorations that might look out of place at another time. Buy old tools and farm items at garage sales and put them in a harvest-theme vignette. Container plants also can be cycled in and out when they are at their best. Put your best containers up front where they can be seen.

Slide 31 Fall Foliage and Berries Japanese Maple Nandina Beautyberry Your fall garden flowers can be mixed with evergreen plants, trees, and shrubs or you can have them mixed in with deciduous plantings that will give you beautiful fall foliage. Fall foliage and colorful berries will add richness to chrysanthemums, asters and goldenrod. Nandina, Japanese Maple and Hollies provide excellent fall color and offers plenty of inspiration for beautiful bouquets.

Slide 32 Dress Up With Fall Containers Do an annual Dress-Up. Many inexpensive annuals can be used to cheer up your fall landscape as deciduous plants, perennials, and summer annuals begin to fizzle out. Use reinforcements of mums, pansies, dianthus, flowering kale, and other cold-tolerant annuals in patio containers, near entrances, around the mailbox, and in other high-traffic areas.

Slide 33 Invite Guests Color Texture Fragrance Sound Invite Guests: Create a welcoming entrance by clearly defining the path to the front door. Use color, texture, fragrance, and even sound from trickling water or swishing grasses. Avoid using plants with thorns and spines near an entrance. Even if they are planted a safe distance from paths, they can present a subtly inhospitable appearance.

Slide 34 Bibliography Texas Fall Garden Plants Garden Guides http://www.gardenguides.com/94596-texas-fallgarden plants.html#ixzz2cperzwp1 http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/ornamentalsnativeshrubs/anisacanthusquadrifid.htm Skip Richter, host of Gardening with Skip, aggiehorticulture.tamu.edu/travis/gardeningwithskip/.../tip0204f.htm http://www.ehow.com/list_7673237_bloomingtexasperennials.html#ixzz2chbzuds http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/2006/11-8/minimize.html Issue: IC-495(24) -- November 8, 2006; Engelbrecht, Christine. http://easttexasgardening.tamu.edu/tips/trees/pruning.html http://www.gardenguides.com/121198-fall-flower-gardening. Grey, Mara. http://www.gardenguides.com/138882-fall-perennial-planting.html#ixzz2cpaghbut. Fall Perennial Planting http://utpress.utexas.edu/index.php/books/ryaper#sthash.ahd6iztr.dpuf http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/galveston/recovery WilliamJohnson.html http://www.gardenideas.com/garden_designs/gardendesigns_design.html http://urbanext.illinois.edu/perennials/dividing.cfm http://www.texasgardener.com/pastissues/sepoct04/tree

Slide 35 The MASTER GARDENERS PROGRAM is a volunteer organization affiliated with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service Master Gardeners: Receive training and continuing education in horticulture Share their expertise through a wide variety of projects Promote research-based horticultural practices For horticulture information and services 972-548-4219 972-548-4232 http://ccmgatx.org mgcollin@ag.tamu.edu Extension programs serve people of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability of national origin.