OPERATIONS MANUAL. M/Y Shani II OPERATIONS MANUAL

Transcription

1 M/Y Shani II OPERATIONS MANUAL Shani II anchored in Ingram Bayou, AL on Nov. 9, 2007 during our trip around the Great Loop (June 28, 2007 to August 15, 2008). Welcome aboard! We are happy you have chosen Shani II for your vacation. We are sure you will enjoy cruising the lovely islands of the Pacific Northwest. You won t find another Grand Banks sedan like this one with the custom framed structure over the aft deck making the dinghy launch very easy and keeping it stowed out of your way. We trust this manual will help you become familiar with the boat. If you have questions about the boat or about places to visit, please do not hesitate to ask the AYC staff. 1

2 TABLE OF CONTENTS BOAT OPERATION... 4 Engine Inspection... 4 Start-Up... 4 Shut-Down... 5 Getting Underway... 5 Cruising... 6 Docking... 6 Fueling Up... 6 BOAT ELECTRICAL... 7 Overview Volt AC System... 7 Shore Power... 7 Inverter Power... 7 House (12-volt) System... 8 SANITATION SYSTEM... 9 Marine Toilet... 9 Holding Tank...10 WATER SYSTEM...11 Fresh Water Tanks...11 Fresh Water Pressure Pump...11 Hot Water Tank...11 Shower...11 Washdown Hose...11 GALLEY...12 Stove...12 Refrigerator...12 HEATING SYSTEM...13 Overview...13 Boiler...13 Water Distribution System...13 Air Handlers...13 Thermostats and Hydrostats...13 How It Works...14 ELECTRONICS...14 Breakers...14 VHF Radios...14 Depth Sounders...14 Radar...14 Global Positioning System (GPS)...14 Computer Navigation System...15 ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS...15 CD Player...15 DVD Monitor/Player...15 Bluetooth Player...15 ANCHORING...15 Mooring Cans

3 BARBECUE...17 DINGHY & OUTBOARD MOTOR...17 CRABBING & FISHING...18 SAFETY AND BILGE PUMPS...18 MISCELLANEOUS...19 Settee Bunks...19 Ship s Clock...19 Cabin Fan...20 Central Vac...20 What s This?

4 BOAT OPERATION Engine Inspection Remember your WOBBS every morning: Water (Coolant), Oil, Bilges (Inspect and Pump-out), Belts and Sea Strainer. Check the level of OIL in the engine by checking the dipstick located on port side of engine. Look at the notch marks on the dipstick that indicate the proper oil level. DO NOT OVERFILL OIL! Only fill if oil level is below the ½ way mark. Please use a paper towel or oil rag, not the dish towels! Check the general condition of the BELTS, HOSES, and FUEL LINES. Ensure the valve on the RAW WATER THRU-HULL is in the open position (lever in-line with valve). This thru-hull is located just aft of the engine, starboard side. Note that there are two sea strainers. If one becomes clogged, you can switch to the other and keep running. Raw water seacock in open position. Observe the glass of each RAW WATER STRAINER for debris. If necessary, close the seacock, open the strainer cover, clean the strainer, and reassemble. Remember to reopen the seacock. Start-Up Before starting the engine, do your inspection. The engine should be started from the lower helm station. Ensure the GEARSHIFT is in neutral. The THROTTLE should be run up and down and then brought almost back to the idle position. Ignore the Cold Start push/pull DO NOT PULL IT UP. There is no ignition key. Turn on the IGNITION SWITCH (black switch with cover). This will sound the low oil pressure alarm. Press the start button (next to the ignition switch) until engine starts. Adjust idle to about 900 rpm during warm-up. This engine has a rough idle between 750 and 850. If the engine cranks slowly or fails to turn over, check the condition of the battery on the ELECTRICAL PANEL. Bank 1 is the House Bank and Bank 2 is the Start Bank. If the Start Bank battery is low, try connecting the banks together. To do this locate the two red switches near the floor at lower helm (labeled House Bank and Start Bank. To connect the banks together turn the House Bank switch to the Combine Batteries position. 4

5 DC voltage monitor. Normal operation. Battery banks combined Move the THROTTLE to raise the engine speed to 1000 rpm on the TACHOMETER. Warm the engine for about 5 minutes before engaging transmission. Observe the readings of the gauges. The oil pressure will register between PSI. The engine temperature should rise slowly, but not very much. After 5 minutes it will still read less than 100 degrees. This is normal; this engine must have a load to increase temperature. Note -- If oil pressure is low, shut down engine, and inspect engine compartment and look for possible cause (for example, loss of oil.) Caution -- If an engine is overheating or there is lack of raw water expelled in the engine exhaust, stop the engine immediately. Recheck the raw water-cooling system to ensure the seacock is open (handle inline with valve). Next, check the raw water strainer for debris. Remove the strainer, clean, re-assemble, and reopen the raw water intake valve (seacock). Restart the engine and re-check water flow from the exhaust. If water is not flowing properly, the RAW WATER PUMP may need to be serviced. Seek help. Local Knowledge. Many anchorages throughout the northwest have considerable seaweed and jellyfish floating by. When you are running the engine at anchor for any length of time (e.g., to charge the batteries), look over the side often to see what is floating by. Also check the exhaust for sufficient water coming out the wet exhaust. It is not uncommon for seaweed and/or jellyfish to clog the raw water intake, sometimes at the seacock before the strainers. To test for this condition open the seacock slightly with the top of the selected strainer open. If water does not rush into the strainer, the seacock and/or the hose is plugged. If this happens, you need to close the seacock, remove the hose from the seacock, clear the hose and seacock. The easiest way to remove the hose is to leave the hose attached to the strainers, remove the bolts holding the strainers, and lift the strainers and hose off the seacock as one unit. (Although this sounds difficult, it is really quite easy I ve done it several times!). You may need to open the seacock and run a screwdriver through to clear the debris. This will squirt a bit of seawater into the boat, but once the path is clear close the seacock. Shut-Down Before shutting down, allow the engine to idle for about 5 minutes to cool it gradually and uniformly. The time engaged in preparing to dock the boat is usually sufficient. Ensure the GEARSHIFT is in the neutral position and the THROTTLE is in the idle position. Turn off engine by pulling stop knob at the lower helm only. Getting Underway Once the engine is started, turn off the Shore 1 breaker on the panel. Note that the green light will stay on and the meter will still read the AC voltage coming from the dock. Next, make sure the Outback Inverter monitor switches from AC IN to INV. Do not disconnect the shore power cord from the boat or the dock until the dock circuit breaker is turned off. DISCONNECT the shore power cord from the dock and boat, coil, and stow in lazaret. Close the PORTHOLES, WINDOWS, and FORWARD HATCH. Turn on the VHF radios and electronics. Test the gear shift as follows. Make sure all dock lines are still secure, especially the spring lines. Shift briefly into forward and then back to neutral. Then shift briefly into reverse and back into neutral. This test ensures that the shift cables and the gear are working properly. If the shift and throttle controls are difficult to move, check the upper helm station. When the 5

6 controls at one station are moved, they also move at the other station. Any items accidently resting on the controls (e.g., towels, clothing, blankets) will interfere with proper performance. ASSIGN crew members their various positions. Once outside the marina, idle the engines while crew brings in fenders and lines. Cruising Engage the GEARSHIFT. Ensure the throttle is in the idle position before engaging the gearshift to avoid transmission damage. Cruising speed is about 7 kt (through the water) at 1750 rpm. At this rpm you will burn about 1.6 gallons of diesel per hour. Your speed through the water will vary depending upon the weight, load, and weather conditions. Your speed over ground will depend greatly on the current. Bucking a 2 kt current your speed over ground will slow to 5 kt, while going with a 2 kt current will get you 9 kt over ground. DO NOT CRUISE OVER 1800 RPM. Docking During docking, use either the upper or lower helm. If you are single-handed or have only one deckhand, using the lower helm makes it easier to handle or help with the lines. Have your crew make ready the lines and fenders. We recommend having four lines ready (bow, stern, and two spring lines). We also recommend having at least one fender on the opposite side in case you drift into an adjacent boat. Give clear instructions to the crew on your docking plan. NEVER ALLOW A CREW MEMBER TO SIT WITH LEGS DANGLING OVER THE SIDE. Fueling Up OPEN FILLER CAP(S) located midships on both sides with a DECK FITTING KEY which is kept in forward galley drawer. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT FUEL! DIESEL! DIESEL! DIESEL! MAKE SURE IT IS GOING INTO THE RIGHT DECK FILL! DOUBLE-CHECK! Before pumping, have oil/fuel sorbs handy to soak up spilled fuel. You should have a rough idea of the number of gallons you will need by the engine hour indicator (about 1.6 gallons per engine hour). There is no fuel gauge on this vessel. Instead, use the marked dipstick (marked dowel) kept in the port side deck locker to check fuel level in each tank. Place the DIESEL nozzle into the tank opening, pump slowly and evenly, and note the sound of the fuel flow. Pumping too fast may not allow enough time for air to escape, which may result in spouting from the tank opening. As the tank fills, the sound will rise in pitch or gurgle. Pay attention to the TANK OVERFLOW VENT on the outside of the hull near the tank opening. The sound may indicate that the tank is nearly full. Top off carefully, and be prepared to catch spilled fuel. Spillage may result in a nasty fine from law enforcement. Replace each tank cap. Caution -- Clean up splatter and spillage immediately for environmental and health reasons. Wash hands with soap and water thoroughly. Fuel Tanks There are two fuel tanks port and starboard. Diesel engines draw fuel from tanks and also return some fuel to the tanks. Fuel should be drawn and returned to only one tank at a time. The open/close valves are at the top of each fuel tank. Make sure one is open and the other is closed. The return fuel selector valve determines which tank gets the return fuel. Follow the arrows on the valve and check labels to determine where the fuel is going. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DRAW AND RETURN FUELTO BOTH TANKS AT THE SAME TIME. Setting the return fuel selector valve at an intermediate position does not ensure that fuel returns to each tank and may create excessive back pressure in the return line. 6

7 BOAT ELECTRICAL Overview The electrical system is divided into two distribution systems: 110-volt AC and 12-volt DC. The systems are controlled from the ELECTRICAL PANEL located in the salon at the helm. The DC panel is above the AC panel. The DC system has both a Start Bank and a House Bank. Their main switches are located near the floor by the helm. When not connected to shore power, batteries are providing all power. Therefore, monitor the use of onboard electricity carefully with your volt meter (located in DC panel) and turn off electrical devices that are not needed. Most breakers are labeled by colored dots. Green signifies usually on. Red is usually off. Blue dots are water pressure or water-related like pumps. Yellow signifies electronics or items to use cautiously. No dots on breakers signify irregular use or use with discretion. 110-Volt AC System The AC system is powered either by SHORE POWER (when connected to the dock) or by the INVERTER (when not connected to the dock). Some AC equipment (water heater and the Hurricane heater in electric mode) cannot be powered by the inverter because they require too much power. The other major appliances (microwave, coffee maker, toaster, central vac) and outlets are available when powered by the inverter. Shore Power SHORE POWER will support all AC equipment and receptacles on board, as well as the battery charger. To connect to shore power, first make sure the SHORE POWER CIRCUIT BREAKER is OFF on the AC electrical panel (labeled Shore 1 ). Next, plug the 30 Amp POWER CORD into the boat (port side of main cabin). If the dock receptacle has a breaker, turn it to OFF and then attach the cord. (Note: If the dock breaker is ON when the cord is attached, a small unnoticeable electric charge will arc across the contacts. Over time this arcing will gradually burn and degrade the contacts. If the dock does not have a breaker, you have no choice just plug it in.) Check the power rating/plug size of the nearest dock receptacle (that is 50 amp, 30 amp, 20 amp, or 15 amp). If necessary, add a CORD ADAPTER (located under the forward settee seat on the starboard side). Once connected, turn the dock breaker to ON. If power is coming from the dock, the green light on the Shore 1 breaker should come on (even though the breaker is still in the OFF position) and you should see the AC voltage on the monitor. Cords coming off the bow can be wrapped loosely around the bow line. At the ELECTRICAL PANEL, flip the SHORE 1 CIRCUIT BREAKER on. Check for reverse polarity. Then turn on appropriate breakers for battery charger, refrigeration, water heater. Watch your volt meter for load. If the load exceeds voltage, you will pop your breaker. If this occurs, wait to turn on one of your systems (i.e. water heater) until your use of volts drops. If your outlets fail to work, check your GFIs (in the galley, head, and cockpit) to make sure that they have not been tripped. Inverter Power The INVERTER provides AC power to the 110-volt receptacle plugs (e.g., the microwave oven) when the boat is disconnected from shore power. The inverter does not provide power to the water heater, Hurricane heater electric mode, or the battery charger. The actual inverter is located on the forward engine room bulkhead port side. The inverter s power source is the two DC house batteries located in engine room, port side. The quantity of DC power is limited to the capacity of these batteries. Therefore, running hair dryers, toaster, coffeepot, space heater, etc. will quickly discharge the house batteries. Use these items VERY SPARINGLY! Monitor your battery usage very carefully! The Victron BMV-501 Energy Monitor will give you the percent remaining in the house battery bank. DO NOT DRAW THE HOUSE BANK BELOW 50%. If the house bank gets close to 50%, start the main engine and idle at 1000 rpm to allow the alternator to charge the batteries. 7

8 When connected to shore power, the inverter automatically becomes a battery charger for the 12-volt battery banks. Should you detect the inverter failing to charge the house batteries, check the circuit breaker in the AC Panel and the inverter control panel. House (12-volt) System Two battery banks support 12-volt DC power: (1) house bank; and (2) start bank (two batteries). The voltage monitor at the top of the DC panel (and below the Outback Inverter Control Panel) gives the voltage of the selected bank (1 = house bank; 2 = start bank; 3 = N/A). The BATTERY SWITCHES are located near floor at the lower helm. Normally, leave the START and HOUSE SWITCHES in the ON position. If it is necessary to combine the battery banks, stop the engine and switch the house bank switch to Combine Batteries.) Note -- Do not change the position of the switches while the engines are running or the alternator diodes will be damaged. Always change positions with the engines off. DC voltage monitor. Normal operation. Battery banks combined Your 12 volt panel shows all the systems supported by your batteries. Primarily you will be turning on the breakers for your lights, water pressure, electronics, etc. Bilge pumps (forward, engine room, lazaret) and the shower sump pump will always have power there are no circuit breakers for these pumps to avoid inadvertently turning them off. The rocker switches at the top left of the main electrical panel put the pumps into AUTO mode (i.e., they will be turned on by float switches) or ON mode there is no OFF mode. To disconnect these pumps, you must remove the fuses located just above the battery switches. Bilge and sump pump rocker switches. The HOUSE BATTERY BANK provides power for all DC systems, except the engine starter. When disconnected from shore power, all 12-volt devices drain the house bank. Use devices only as needed. The DC voltmeter on the DC panel can be switched between Start and House Battery banks to measure charging or resting battery voltages. 8

9 When a battery bank is being charged, the voltage will read from about 13.1 volts to 14.4 volts depending upon state-ofcharge of the battery bank. When the battery bank is at rest, (that is, not being charged), the voltmeter can give a rough indication of the state-of-charge of the battery bank. Voltage (Wet Cell Battery) Battery State volts 100% volts 75% volts 50% volts 25% volts 0% While underway, the Start bank is charged by a 65 amp alternator located on the port side of the engine. The House bank is charged by a 160 amp alternator located on the starboard side of the engine. When connected to shore power both banks are charged by the BATTERY CHARGER. Ensure the Battery Charger and Inverter circuit breakers at the electrical panel are ON. SANITATION SYSTEM Marine Toilet It is important that every member of the crew be informed on the proper use of the MARINE TOILET. The valves, openings, and pumps are small and may clog easily. If the toilet clogs, it is YOUR RESONSIBILITY! Always pump the head for children, so you can make sure nothing foreign is being flushed. Caution Never put paper towels, tampons, Kleenex, sanitary napkins, household toilet paper, or food into the marine toilet. Use only the special dissolving marine toilet tissue provided by AYC. The Shani II has a Vacu-Flush toilet. Both the WATER PRESSURE and VACUUM PUMP breakers on the DC panel must be ON. Further controls are in the head. The upper rocker switch turns on the vacuum pump. The red light will be lit and you can hear the pump working. When the proper vacuum has been achieved, the pump will stop and the green light will come on. Vacuum pump is working; not ready to flush. Ready to flush. There should be some water in the bowl. Use as little water as possible this is fresh water and every flush reduces your domestic water supply. To get more water in the bowl, use your foot to raise the flush lever until more water enters the bowl. Once you have finished your business, press down on the flush lever with your foot (3 seconds for number 1 ; 8 seconds for number 2 ) and then let the lever snap back into place. It will take the vacuum pump about seconds to recreate the vacuum. 9

10 The flushing process will leave the right amount of water in the bowl. If the water drains out and the vacuum pump comes on, there is a leak in the seal at the bottom of the bowl most likely a piece of toilet paper. Press the flush lever again and run a paper towel around the hole to clean any debris. If between flushes you hear the vacuum pump working and there is water in the bowl, the system is losing vacuum somewhere else and further repairs may be necessary. However, you can still use the toilet by activating the vacuum pump via the rocker switch in the head ONLY when you need to use the toilet. Holding Tank The Shani II does not have a Y-Valve to allow waste to go directly overboard. Instead, all waste from the toilet goes directly into the sanitation HOLDING TANK, which holds approximately 27 gallons. Be aware of the rate of waste production. We have found that about 14 person-days of use will fill the holding tank (i.e., two people for one week; four people for about 3 days). With an overfilled tank, it is possible to break a hose, clog a vent, or burst the tank. The result will be an indescribable catastrophe and an EXPENSIVE FIX to you. Empty the tank EVERY OTHER DAY to avoid this problem. The HOLDING TANK is located in the engine room on starboard side. It may be subject to a visual check with a flashlight or the watermelon test by thumping it. There is a tank watch warning light located in the head, but do not rely upon this as they often get clogged. The holding tank is emptied in one of two ways: 1. Pump Out. At the Marine Pump-Out Station, remove the WASTE CAP located on starboard side deck. Press the cone shaped pump-out nozzle into the waste cap opening to make a tight seal. Double-check your deck fitting! Do not pump out diesel! Turn on the pump and open the valve located on the handle. When pumping is finished, close lever on handle and turn off pump. Remove from deck fitting. If there is a fresh water hose on the dock, rinse the tank by adding 2 minutes of water into tank. Then repump to leave the tank rinsed for the next charter. This also eliminates head odors. 2. Discharge Pump. The tank s contents can be discharged overboard with the electric DISCHARGE PUMP, but only in Canadian waters. Before pumping, make sure the discharge seacock is open (located in the forward starboard side of the engine room.) To operate the discharge pump, turn on the breaker that says Macerator Pump in the DC Panel. Listen to the pump s sound. When the pitch becomes higher, the tank is empty. Discharge may be observed on the starboard side. It should only take a few minutes to empty the tank. Discharge pump seacock in open position. 10

11 WATER SYSTEM Fresh Water Tanks The FRESH WATER TANKS hold 80 gallons total (i.e., 40 gallons per tank) and are located in the center aft section of the engine room. You can clearly see the water level by direct inspection. To refill the tank, remove the WATER DECK FILL CAPS located in cockpit. The tanks vent best if both fill caps are open during the filling process. Avoid flushing debris from the deck into the tank opening. DO NOT fill water and diesel at the same time! Waste water from the galley and head sinks drains overboard through thru-hulls located under the sinks. Waste water from the shower is pumped overboard via the shower sump pump. Fresh Water Pressure Pump The WATER PRESSURE PUMP is located in engine room on the port side aft. Activate this pump at the DC panel by turning on the breaker. If the water pump continues to run, you are either out of water or might have an air lock and need to bleed the system by opening up a faucet. If you run out of water SHUT OFF YOUR HOT WATER HEATER on the AC panel. Serious damage can occur! Hot Water Tank The HOT WATER HEATER uses three possible heat sources: (1) dockside electricity when connected to shore power; (2) engine heat when underway via a heat exchanger; and (3) heat from the Hurricane hydronic system via a heat exchanger. To use on shore power, flip on the water heater circuit breaker on the AC electrical panel. Do not use the water heater if the water tank level is very low. When underway, no controls are necessary to get heat from the engine. To get hot water at anchor turn on the Hurricane heater using the switch on the Hurricane panel. Whenever the water temperature in the hot water tank drops below a certain level, the diesel furnace in the Hurricane will come on and heat the water in the hydronic system. Note that this will circulate hot water throughout the boat s hydronic system unless the summer loop is selected (see the Heating System section for details). Shower Before taking a SHOWER, make sure water pressure breaker is on (remember, there is no breaker for the shower sump pump). Take only very short boat showers (turning off water between soaping up and rinsing). To keep shower tidy wipe down the shower stall. Check for accumulation of hair in the shower and sink drains. Ensure that the faucets and nozzle are completely off after use. The shower sump and pump are located under the steps leading to the V-Berth. Washdown Hose A pressured RAW WATER WASHDOWN is available from hose connections at the anchor and transom. To activate the pump flip the WASHDOWN PUMP BREAKER located in the DC panel to ON. After use, turn the switch OFF. A freshwater connection is available at the back of the cabin, starboard side. This connects directly to the domestic fresh water tanks, so use this water conservatively. 11

12 To connect/disconnect the hose push the hose connection in and turn clockwise or counter-clockwise. Freshwater hose connection. Saltwater hose connection. GALLEY Stove The Force 10 stove and oven with broiler are fueled by propane. The propane stove is activated by the following steps: 1. Turn on the propane tank located on flybridge under the forward port seat. 2. Turn on the DC breaker labeled STOVE to activate the electrical components. The solenoid controller located above the sink will show two green Sensor lights and one red Gas light and will beep for about 30 sec. When this cycle is finished, the single green sensor 1 light will remain lit. 3. To open the solenoid and let gas flow to the stove press the Gas button on the solenoid controller. You will hear a click and the red light will come on. 4. To light a burner just push in on the knob and turn slightly counter-clockwise. The sparker should snap and light the burner. You might need to hold the knob in for a few seconds while the thermocouple warms up. The same applies to lighting the oven and broiler. If the sparker fails to snap, you can use a match or lighter. 5. When finished cooking turn off the switches and the bottle. Initializing sequence. Ready, gas off. Ready, gas on. Refrigerator The REFRIGERATOR is dual voltage (12-volt and 110-volt power). When connected to shore power, turn on the 110 AC refrigerator breaker. When not connected to shore power, turn on the 12 DC breaker. Monitor the use of the refrigerator when the engine is not charging the 12-volt battery system. The local power switch is located below the refrigerator door. It can be turned down to the lowest position when anchored or moored or turned off when turning in for the night. 12

13 HEATING SYSTEM Overview Cabin heat is provided by The Hurricane hydronic heating system. It also provides hot water when not connected to shore power. When connected to shore power, set the TOGGLE SWITCH located at the DC Panel to OFF and the HEATER BREAKER on the AC panel to ON. When not connected to shore power, set the TOGGLE SWITCH to ON and the HEATER BREAKER to OFF. In either case set the THERMOSTATS in the V-Berth or main cabin to the desired temperature (using the up/down buttons on the thermostat). The system components and operation are described below. Boiler The boiler heats water using either a diesel furnace or electric coils (like in a home hot water heater). The electricity option is only available when at the dock and using shore power. The diesel furnace exhaust port is located starboard side aft. Be sure to check this port for any obstruction, such as fenders, lines, or the inflatable. Do not block this opening when operating the furnace exhaust heat will damage fiberglass or rubber. Water Distribution System A system of plastic hoses and a circulation pump transport hot water throughout the boat. You can see these hoses in the hanging locker and inside some cabinets. The system is divided into two loops: winter and summer. The winter loop circulates water throughout the entire boat. The summer loop only circulates water to the hot water heater in the lazaret. The summer loop prevents radiant heat from the hoses from heating the cabin, but still passes heat to the hot water heater. The winter/summer loop control valve is in the lazaret. Summer loop selected. Winter loop selected. Air Handlers An air handler works like a car heater. Hot water passes through copper tubes and the surrounding hot air is blown into the cabin with a fan. There is one in the main cabin and one in forward cabin that also blows hot air into the head. Thermostats and Hydrostats These control when the system generates heat. There is one thermostat for each air handler. Adjust the temperature setting using the up and down buttons. The hydrostat is located at the hot water heater. 13

14 How It Works Whenever a thermostat or the hydrostat calls for heat, the circulation pump starts to move water through the system. If the water temperature is too low, the boiler begins to heat water using either the diesel furnace or the electric element. If you are underway, the engine heat may already have the water hot enough. When the water temperature is high enough, the air handlers begin to blow hot air (if called for by their respective thermostat). When the air temperature reaches the thermostat setting or the domestic water in the hot water heater reaches its level, the boiler shuts off and the circulation pump stops. ELECTRONICS Breakers Some electronics have individual breakers on the DC panel (auto pilot, VHF radios, and radar). Other electronics are connected to a 12 VDC buss on the ceiling. This buss is powered through the breaker labeled Electronics. VHF Radios There are 2 fixed mount VHF RADIOS, both located at the lower helm station. Always monitor channel 16 on one radio while underway. Use the other radio to monitor the Vessel Traffic Service on channel 5, or converse with another boat or a marina. There also is a hand-held VHF RADIO (stored on the shelf near the lower helm station) for use when on the flybridge or in the skiff or kayak. Make sure the battery for the hand-held radio remains fully charged. Depth Sounders There are 2 DEPTH SOUNDERS, one at the lower and one at the upper helm. The lower unit is a Furuno Fishfinder/Sounder that gives a recording of the seabed. This is very useful when anchoring. Soft bottom shows up as a weak signal; hard bottom and rocks show a strong signal often with a second echo. Vegetation (e.g., eelgrass) also shows up. Look for a soft place with no vegetation to drop the hook. To activate the upper DEPTH SOUNDER, use the push/pull switch located next to the clock above the center forward window. Set the scale, shallow alarm, and deep alarm as desired. The upper sounder should provide reliable readings in shallow waters. If in doubt, switch it off and then turn it back on to reset sounder. If your reading is blinking, it is a FALSE reading. False readings can occur in depths of more then 200 feet or in areas of strong currents or tides. Radar To operate the Furuno RADAR press and hold the POWER button to turn the radar on. To turn off, press and hold the POWER button for about 3 seconds. Remember you are not allowed to travel in FOG, at night, or in serious wind conditions. The radar takes about one minute to warm up (warm-up time remaining is displayed in the upper right corner of the screen). After warm-up it will display ST-BY and the screen will show blank navigation data (the radar is not integrated with the GPS). Follow the instructions on the Quick Start sheet near the helm to switch to transmit mode and arrange the screen to your liking. See the manual the full instructions. Global Positioning System (GPS) A fixed mount GPS unit is located just left of the radar. The Electronics breaker on the DC panel must be ON. The GPS provides a position readout and is connected to the laptop for use with the Coastal Explorer navigation system. 14

15 Note -- GPS is considered a navigation aid. Do not rely on it. Compasses, charts, and dividers are the tools to plot position, course, and speed. Computer Navigation System Before powering up the laptop, make sure the GPS is turned off. If the GPS is on, it will be streaming GPS data to the laptop during the startup procedure. This sometimes causes the mouse cursor to act erratically. Once the laptop finishes its launch sequence, launch the Coastal Explorer program and turn on the GPS. Follow the instructions on the Quick Start sheet near the helm. ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS CD Player The CD Player is located near the V-Berth. The XM, AM, and FM radio functions on this unit do not have antennas and will not work. Only the CD player works. There are four speakers two in the salon and two in the V-Berth. The BALANCE controls the sound distribution in the port and starboard speakers. The FADE controls the sound distribution fore and aft. DVD Monitor/Player A monitor with built in DVD player is fixed in the galley salon. It has its own speakers. There is no TV antenna. Bluetooth Player A TDK Bluetooth Player is located under the DVD player. You can connect any Bluetooth device (e.g., phone, ipod, laptop) to this device and play your music. ANCHORING The primary WORKING ANCHOR is a 35 lb CQR and is attached to 95 ft of 5/16 inch chain and 225 ft of nylon line passed through the deck from the CHAIN LOCKER. If the rode becomes fouled in the chain locker, open the locker through the V-Berth to clear the rode. The anchor rode is marked as follows: Mark Total Length (ft) Chain 95 Rope (1 mark) 140 Rope (2 marks) 185 Rope (3 marks) 230 Rope (4 marks) 275 Rope (5 marks) 320 The WINDLASS POWER BREAKER is located in the DC Panel. The windlass can be controlled from the up/down switch located at the helm station or from the wireless remote (stored on the cabin side just to the right of the wheel). When hauling back, the windlass can be controlled with the foot switch on deck. Before setting the anchor make sure the chain cover on the deck is open. The anchor is not self-launching (i.e., it will not free fall from its stored position). Therefore, it is necessary to pull about 1 ft of chain from the locker and slide the anchor out partially over the roller (until gravity will pull it the rest of the way over the roller). Then use one of the windlass controls to lower the anchor just over the bow. From this point it is possible to lower the anchor further using the manual clutch, but it is safer to power the anchor down using the windlass. Once the vessel is stopped in position (i.e., not moving foreward or aft), start lowering the anchor. Once the anchor hits the bottom (you will notice a slight change in pitch from the windlass), ease the boat into reverse. Do not drop all of the rode on top of the anchor on the bottom. Release rode while the boat is moving slowly in reverse (i.e., in and out of reverse so as not to go too fast). 15

16 Chain cover open. Anchor ready to launch. If the anchorage is crowded, put down at least a 3 to 1 scope (60 feet for 20 feet of water) and back the anchor in with a short burst from the engine. With the engine in reverse at 600 rpm make sure you are not dragging anchor. Then let out additional scope dependent upon conditions. Finally, attach the chain stopper and release more rode until the chain stopper takes up the strain. The wildcat on the windlass is not designed to take the strain on the anchor rode. Before raising the anchor, ALWAYS start the engine as the windlass uses large amounts of power. Turn on the WINDLASS BREAKER and as the boat moves toward the anchor, press the up control to take up slack line. As the rode comes in use the deck hose to wash off mud and seaweed. Give the windlass short rests as you are pulling it up. The anchor should guide itself onto the roller without help. As the anchor rises, be careful not to allow it to swing against the hull. Reconnect the keeper between the anchor and bow cleat. Close the plastic cover on the FOOT PEDAL CONTROL. Turn off the WINDLASS POWER SWITCH. Replace the chain cover on the deck. A SPARE Danforth ANCHOR is stowed on the bow. The 200 ft SPARE ANCHOR RODE is located in the lazaret. Attach the rode securely to the chain shackle. Spare anchor line (stored in lazaret). Spare anchor rigged. Mooring Cans The State Park Sticker on your vessel allows you to pick up the MOORING CANS in the parks for free. You only need to register at the kiosk usually located at the heads of the docks. Mooring cans have a metal triangle at the top upon which is a metal ring. The metal ring is attached to the chain which secures your boat. IT IS VERY HEAVY. The strongest member of your crew should be picked for this job. 16

17 Come up to the CAN into the wind as you would for anchoring. Have crew members on the bow, one with a boat hook and one with a mooring line secured like a bow line. As you are coming slowly up to the can have the crew holding the boat hook point at the can with the hook so the skipper always knows where it is. Hook the can and bring the ring up to the boat to allow the second crew to thread the ring with the line. Release the hold with the boat hook. If your mooring line is led out the starboard chock bring the end of the line back through the port side. You will essentially create a bridle with about 10 feet of slack from the chalk to the can. BARBECUE The BARBECUE and MOUNTING BRACKET are stored on flybridge in place. Attach a PROPANE BOTTLE (stored under the forward port seat on the flybridge) to the REGULATOR on the side of the grill. Carefully light the unit using the integrated lighter. If that fails, us a long-stem butane lighter. The barbecue generates a lot of heat and cooks hot and fast. Please wipe with a paper towel before storing to prevent grease and dirt soiling the boat. Note: Propane bottles are not stocked by AYC. You will need to purchase one if extras are not found on board. Caution -- For safety reasons, do not store an opened propane bottle within the salon or engine compartment. Chances are these will leak slightly once opened and propane gas could settle into low spaces. Ensure gasoline and flammable materials are not near the barbecue. DINGHY & OUTBOARD MOTOR Your Genesis DINGHY with a 8 hp Honda engine is stored on the upper deck. Two davits, each with an electric winch, are used to deploy the dinghy. Having two davits gives excellent control of the dinghy, especially in rough or windy conditions. The winch controller is stored in the white box just to the starboard side of the main cabin door (this box also stores the central vac, hose, and attachments). Remove the yellow controller and enough cable to reach the upper deck. Inspect for proper attachment the three points where the chain yoke attaches to the dinghy and the two points where the winch cables attach to the chain yoke. The circuit breakers for the two davits are located just above the battery switches. The upper switch on the yellow controller has three positions: (1) center controls both winches; (2) right controls only the starboard winch; and (3) left controls only the port winch. The lower switch is a toggle. Pushing up raises one or both winches (depending on the position of the upper switch); pushing down lowers one or both winches. To deploy the dinghy start by raising the winches until all slack is taken from the lines. Then raise the dinghy until it is just clear of the deck stowing brackets. The dinghy goes over the stern at a 45 degree angle with the bow going over first. Start by moving the engine end of the dinghy about 1 ft toward the starboard side. Then push the bow end of the dinghy out over the transom. If done properly, the engine shaft will pass between the two stowing brackets attached to the deck as the dinghy is moved over the transom. There is no need to raise the engine. Once the dinghy is over the transom begin to lower it using both winches simultaneously. The dinghy will go down very close to the stern navigation light, so be sure to push it out slightly so it doesn t damage the light. 17

18 Coast Guard regulations state that any child 14 and under must wear a life jacket in a dinghy. It is a good idea for EVERYONE to follow this rule. CRABBING & FISHING Always check the fishing and crabbing requirements before you leave on your cruise. You will need a license. Many areas are CLOSED to crabbing and fishing on certain months. CRAB AWAY FROM THE BOAT! Lines can get wrapped around the prop and/or rudder. There are two collapsible traps with lines, floats, and bait jars stored in the lazaret. If you are using a ring, fish-flavored cat food with the pop-up ringed lids work the best for a nice neat way to bait the ring. After minutes, retrieve the crab line and ring quickly. Keep only the male crabs of proper size (usually 6 ¼ inches across the carapace). Boil crabs about 12 minutes to cook. After using, wash equipment thoroughly with fresh water (available from the cockpit freshwater outlet). Note -- Please do not store wet rings and gear inside the boat. SAFETY AND BILGE PUMPS SAFETY should be paramount in your daily cruising. A MAN OVERBOARD DRILL should be discussed and perhaps even practiced with a life jacket or fender. Use the Life Sling (located at the transom) to retrieve the man overboard. Remember your lifejackets are stowed in the starboard seat on the flybridge. A few should always be out and ready. Your flares and safety equipment are located in the cockpit. Shani II is equipped with three AUTOMATIC BILGE PUMPS. Bilge pumps (forward, engine room, lazaret) and the shower sump pump should always be left on. There are no circuit breakers for these pumps to avoid inadvertently turning them off. To disconnect these pumps, you must remove the fuses located just above the battery switches. You may occasionally hear the pumps operate due to condensation and water from the shaft log accumulating in the bilge. 18

19 The ENGINE SPARES BOX is in the engine room, starboard side. This includes oil filter, raw water impeller, pump parts, and other small parts. MISCELLANEOUS Settee Bunks The salon settees can be converted into two bunks. First, remove the bolt attaching the leg to the deck. Then lift the table straight up to disengage the holding tabs and fold the leg down. Next, place the plywood insert between the seats (the insert is stored atop the starboard fuel tank in the engine room). Place the forward-most portside seat cushion over the plywood insert. Finally, place the pilot seat bottom cushion where the forward-most portside cushion was removed. Table removed. Plywood insert (stored in engine room atop starboard fuel tank). Port side bunk. Starboard side bunk. Ship s Clock The key to wind the ship s clock is located on a hook behind the valence the clock is attached to. Please do not wind the spring too tight. 19

20 Cabin Fan The switch for the cabin fan is the center button on the fan itself. There are three speeds. Just push the button and the fan will cycle through the three speeds and on the fourth push will stop. The power source for the fan is the 12 VDC buss, so the Electronics breaker on the DC panel must be ON for the fan to work. Central Vac The hose and attachments for the central vac are stored in the box next to the cabin door. The plug-in for the hose is located under the aft seat at the table and the main breaker is located on the AC panel, right side. The hose will reach anywhere on the boat. What s This? When the Shani II is conducting environmental research, this bracket is used to mount a rotating pole with a scientific instrument attached to it (e.g., transducer, current meter, temperature sensor). The pole is placed in a vertical position to collect data and a horizontal position when running between stations. 20

21 This bracket is used to support the end of a kayak. The other end is pulled up to the side of the flybridge with a line. There is a pad eye on the side of the bridge to secure the line. 21