Preparing Soil for Planting. Use the White Flower Farm plant label as your guide

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1 TABLE OF CONTENTS When to plant 2 If you must delay planting 2 Soil preparation 3 Planting bulbs 4 Pot-grown plants 6 Bareroot plants 7 Gardening in containers 8 Aftercare 9 Frequently Asked Questions 10 Clematis, Hydrangea, Iris, Roses 12 Tree Peonies 15 OUR GUARANTEE Behind the pages of our catalogue stand several dozen careful and competent professionals who are determined to make your purchases successful in every respect. We guarantee complete satisfaction. WHEN YOUR ORDER ARRIVES Examine the contents immediately. Check pot-grown plants for moisture every day they are out of the ground and water if the potting mix is dry. Bareroot plants have their roots kept moist by shredded paper or moss and plastic wrapping (do not remove this packing material until you re ready to plant). They may appear dormant but will grow vigorously soon after being planted. Bulbs, corms, tubers, and rhizomes will Use the White Flower Farm plant label as your guide Flower color Bloom time *Light needs Spacing between plants Height Preferred soil type start to grow once they are planted. Please note that blue or green surface mold is not uncommon on bulbs and will not affect their performance. If your bulbs are firm, you can plant with confidence. WHEN TO PLANT We recommend that you plant right away, with the exception of some spring-shipped items (see below). The sooner you plant, the sooner they will become established. Prompt planting in fall is especially important in cold climates. Plants and bulbs that are not well rooted before the ground freezes are unlikely to survive the winter. Spring-shipped items: Bulbs and tubers that are not hardy in your area should be stored indoors until the danger of frost has passed, or potted indoors first to get a jump on a short growing season. Plant annuals and tender perennials after the last frost date. Plants with leafy growth need 7 10 days to adjust to life outdoors before being planted (see Planting on p6). Once acclimated, most perennials and shrubs with leafy growth will endure light spring frost (30 32 F) with little or no damage. IF YOU MUST DELAY PLANTING You can generally wait until it s convenient for you to plant provided you store and Violet, June 36 in., full sun or partial shade Average to damp soil, in. apart Plant crown at soil level (potted), 1 in. deep (bareroot). Planting depth ( level means to place the top of the root ball level with the surrounding soil). * Full sun = At least 6 hours of direct sun each day (the more the better). Partial shade = Direct sun for 3 4 hours and shade the rest of the day. Shade = Bright reflected light but little or no direct sun. care for your new arrivals properly. Bareroot plants can remain in their original packaging for 5 7 days. Keep them cool (but above freezing) and out of direct sun. Stand them upright and check the plants for moisture every day. If dry, add water and pour off the excess. Don t remove packing material until you re ready to plant. If you must wait more than a week to plant a bareroot plant, give it a temporary home, using a practice called heeling in. Dig a shallow trench in a lightly shaded area, remove the packing material, lay the roots in the trench, and cover them with soil. Then water thoroughly. You can also put bareroot plants in a container so long as water can drain out and the roots are covered with potting mix. Heeled-in plants can remain in temporary quarters indefinitely, but the longer you wait, the more traumatic their relocation will be. Pot-grown plants may remain in their original pots for 2 4 weeks. As plants grow, however, the need for water becomes more frequent. If you must delay planting for longer than a month, we recommend shifting your plants into larger pots. If you can t plant your bulbs right away, be sure to open the bags or boxes in which Preparing Soil for Planting Spread 3 4in layer of organic matter over area to be prepared. { Unimproved soil they are shipped to allow air to circulate around the bulbs. Lily bulbs may be stored in the refrigerator crisper; other bulbs will keep for 1 2 weeks if stored dry at room temperature or a bit cooler. Storing bulbs for longer than 2 weeks may impair flowering or result in death. Please note: Bulbs cannot be stored for months (or over the winter) before planting. SOIL PREPARATION Plants grow best in soil that has been loosened before planting to allow ready penetration of oxygen and water. A shovel or spade works well for breaking ground, turning the soil, and chopping up clods; a rototiller comes in handy for preparing a large area. Spread a 3 4in layer of organic matter (compost, aged manure, leafmold, or peat moss) over the area to be prepared, and then turn it into the soil to a depth of approximately 10 12in. We get good results by digging down just one shovel s depth, and unless your soil requires extensive rehabilitation, you probably will, too. Organic matter improves the drainage of heavy clay soils and helps sandy soils hold moisture. It s the secret of success behind all the good gardens we know. Turn organic matter into soil to depth of shovel blade approximately 10 12in in White Flower Farm, Litchfield, Connecticut

2 PLANTING BULBS With very few exceptions (most notably Camassia, Fritillaria meleagris, and Leucojum), bulbs require soil that drains well the year round. To improve the drainage of heavy soil, dig in organic matter such as compost, aged manure, leafmold, peat moss, or (in the South) shredded pine bark. If you garden in very heavy clay, consider constructing raised beds to provide welldrained conditions. Bulbs are easy to plant. With a trowel or a bulb planter, dig a hole to the depth indicated on the plant label (use the label, which is 6in long, as a rough measuring stick). Set the bulb in the hole with the roots or the remnants of roots pointing down. Some bulbs Spanish Bluebells (Hyacinthoides hispanica), for example don t have visible roots but have a pointed or tapered top, which should be planted facing up. After you ve placed the bulb in the hole, fill the hole with soil and water thoroughly. Bulbs grown in large, deep pots should be planted at the recommended depth. In small pots, plant bulbs at ½ the normal depth. Watering Bulbs. Although there may be no signs of life above ground, bulbs begin sending out roots soon after planting as long as the soil is sufficiently moist. Unless you expect a soaking rain within a day or two of planting, we recommend that you water thoroughly after you plant. Water newly planted bulbs again only if rainfall is scarce. Once established, most bulbs want ample moisture ½ to 1in of rain per week while in active growth (which begins in fall, slows or stops in winter, and resumes in late winter or early spring) and require soil that is on the dry side during summer dormancy. Do not plant bulbs near soaker hoses or sprinklers. Fertilizing Bulbs. The best time to fertilize bulbs is in fall, when they are sending out new roots. The next best time to fertilize is in early spring, just as the foliage begins to push through the soil. Heavy feeders such as Lilies and hybrid Tulips perform best if fertilized in both fall and spring. We recommend using a slow-release fertilizer formulated especially for bulbs, such as a granular Daffodil fertilizer. It s an easy matter to apply the fertilizer to the surface of the soil above the bulbs after planting and then every fall thereafter. We do not recommend using bone meal. It contains only one primary nutrient (phosphorus) and attracts dogs and rodents, which may dig up the bulbs. Bloom time. The bloom times printed on our labels are typical of bulbs grown in Litchfield, Connecticut. Where spring comes earlier, bloom will generally be earlier. Likewise, in colder climates, flowering will be delayed. Please note that the first spring after planting, most bulbs (particularly those imported from cool-summer climates such as those of Holland and England) bloom later than established bulbs of the same variety. This is not unusual. In subsequent years, they will bloom at the appointed time. Aftercare of Bulbs. Most of the bulbs we offer go dormant within about 8 12 weeks after flowering. The period between the end of flowering and the withering of the foliage is crucial to the future vigor of the plant. If you cut, fold, or braid the leaves before they have yellowed and collapsed, you may prevent the bulb from storing the energy required to bloom the following year. You can hide curing foliage by interplanting bulbs with leafy perennials such as Hostas, Daylilies, and Ferns or with annuals or ground covers. If you plant bulbs in a lawn, As the illustration at right shows, air temperatures cool down much faster than soil temperatures. Leaves may be long gone off the trees and there may even be snow in the air, but the soil remains warm enough for planting well into late fall. The rule of thumb for planting bulbs is to get them in the ground at least six weeks before the ground freezes, allowing the bulbs time to form roots. Large bulbs such as Tulips, Daffodils, and Lilies should be planted deeply (6in or more of soil over the tops of the bulbs) and generally may be planted later in the season than small bulbs because the soil takes longer to cool down the deeper you dig. do not mow the grass until the bulb foliage begins to yellow. The best time to move or divide bulbs is when their foliage has all but withered, signaling the end of active growth. Lift them with a digging fork or a spade, taking care to avoid injuring the bulbs, and replant them immediately at the same depth and about three times their diameter apart. Prechilling bulbs in mild-winter areas. In parts of the country where winters are mild, certain bulbs may not receive enough natural cold to stimulate proper growth and flowering. We recommend treating these as annuals and replacing them with new bulbs every year. Check with your local USDA Cooperative Extension Service to find out whether any bulbs require prechilling before planting in your area. Place the bulbs in a refrigerator, away from fruits and vegetables (these produce ethylene gas, which can harm the embryonic flowers inside the bulbs). Make sure the Why we say, It s not too late bulbs remain dry. The usual prechilling time is 8 10 weeks at F. Once the bulbs are removed from cold treatment, plant them right away. Bloom occurs about 6 8 weeks after planting. Discard the entire plant after bloom. DEPTH TO PLANT THE TOP OF BULBS (The general rule is 2 3 times the height of the bulb. See plant label for specifics by variety.) Allium 1 6" Anemone 2" Camassia 4 6" Chionodoxa 2 3" Colchicum 4" Crocus 2 5" Dutch Iris 4 5" Dwarf Iris 3 4" Eranthis 1 2" Eremurus 4 6" Erythronium 3" Fritillaria 2 6" Galanthus 2 3" Hyacinthus 4 6" Hyacinthoides 5" Ipheion 2 3" Leucojum 4 6" Lilium 6 8" Lilium candidum 1" Lycoris ½" Muscari 2 3" Narcissus 3 7" Nectaroscordum 2 3" Scilla 3" Sternbergia 5 6" Tulipa 4 8" 4 5

3 PLANTING POT-GROWN PERENNIALS AND WOODY PLANTS Dormant pot-grown plants are ready to plant as described in the following paragraph. Pot-grown plants with leafy new growth need a gradual introduction to direct sun and wind before planting. Set plants outdoors in a sheltered, lightly shaded spot, increasing their exposure to sun and wind each day. After 7 10 days, they ll be ready to go in the ground. Before planting, check the potting mix in the pot and water thoroughly if it s dry. Dig a hole slightly larger than the pot. Remove the plant from the pot by grasping the rim, turning the pot upside down, and tapping it against the heel of your hand. If the plant is root-bound (the root ball matted with roots to the point that they obscure the potting mix), gently break up the sides of the ball with your thumbs (see drawing on the facing page) and tease apart roots that are circling at the bottom. This encourages roots to grow into the surrounding soil. Set the root ball in the hole so that the top of the ball is level with the surface of the soil. Then push soil around and just over the top of the root ball, firm the soil, and give the plant a thorough soaking to settle the soil. Pot-grown woody plants that are to be planted in unimproved soil need different treatment. Dig a hole 3 5 times the diameter of the root ball but no deeper than the height of the root ball. Remove the plant from the pot and gently break up the sides of the root ball with your thumbs (see drawing on facing page; you may find it easier to make several vertical cuts with an old kitchen knife), then set it in the center of the hole. Push soil back into the hole and just over the top of the root ball. Firm the soil by pressing down with both hands. Make a rim of soil around the edge of the planting hole to form a basin, which will hold water and channel it to the roots. Finally, fill the basin with water several times. For most woody plants that are to be planted in unimproved soil (in a lawn, for example), there is no benefit to amending the soil dug from the planting hole. Kalmia (Mountain Laurel), Vaccinium (Blueberry), Rhododendron (including Azalea), plus Heaths (Erica) and Heathers (Calluna) are exceptions. They grow better if an acidic soil amendment such as peat moss (shredded pine bark is often recommended in the South) is worked thoroughly into the soil at planting time. PLANTING BAREROOT PERENNIALS Unwrap the plant and discard the packing material. Dig a hole wide enough to accommodate the spread of the roots and deep enough to allow you to set the crown the point where the leaves or stems of the plant meet the roots 1in below the surface of the soil. (Some plants require deeper planting, others shallower planting see the White Flower Farm plant label.) Place the roots in the planting hole and arrange them in whatever fashion appears natural (see drawing below). Holding the crown of the plant, push soil into the hole, working soil around the roots. Firm the soil around the crown, pressing down with both hands. Water thoroughly, even if rain threatens, to settle the soil. It s not always easy to tell which end of a bareroot plant is up. Some perennials Ferns and Liatris are good examples may lack obvious roots. Look for buds or the remains of stems and leaves, and plant them facing up. When in doubt, lay the crown on its side; the plant knows to send shoots up and roots down. Breaking Up a Root Ball If the root ball of a pot-grown plant is matted with roots, break up the sides of the ball before planting. PLANTING BAREROOT WOODY PLANTS Plant bareroot shrubs, trees, and vines as you would bareroot perennials, with three differences. First, when ready to plant, remove the packaging and soak the roots for a few hours (not days). Second, the roots of many woody plants are brittle, so take care not to break them. Third, after planting, make a rim of soil around the edge of the planting hole to form a basin that will catch water and channel it to the roots. Planting a Pot-grown Plant Planting a Bareroot Plant Set top of root ball level with surrounding soil. Level of surrounding soil Plant crown at depth indicated on plant label. Crown Dig hole wide enough and just deep enough for root ball. Crown Dig hole wide and deep enough to accommodate roots. Arrange roots evenly inside hole. 6 7

4 GARDENING IN CONTAINERS Most of the plants we offer can be grown in containers any container with a drainage hole in the bottom will suit. The growing medium in containers must drain much more quickly than garden soil. Use a potting mix that is specifically designed for containers, available at most garden centers. Planting. Moisten your potting mix with warm water and fill the container until it is about 1in away from the rim. Next, set the plants on the mix, spacing them much more closely than you would when planting in the ground. You may want the tallest plants in the center, surrounded with shorter, mounding plants and trailing plants along the edge. Refer to our plant labels for heights and our Web site for planting diagrams of annual collections (click on More Images for each item). When you are pleased with your arrangement, make holes for each plant and set the top of the rootball even with the level of the mix. Firm the potting mix around the plants and add more mix to bring the final level to about 1in below the rim. Firm lightly. Finally, water thoroughly. Watering. Plants in containers dry out more quickly than plants in the ground; in The Hummingbird Annual Collection Planting Diagram A = Fuchsia B = Coleus C=Ipomoea D = Begonia Watch our head gardener plant the Hummingbird Annual Collection at the heat of summer, you may have to water them daily. To decrease the need to water, add a superabsorbent gel to the potting mix. Fertilizing. With frequent watering, nutrients wash out the bottom of the pot. We recommend adding a timed-release fertilizer into the potting mix before planting. In addition, to keep annuals growing and flowering, use a water-soluble fertilizer, such as our All Bloom ( ), every other week in summer. (Bulbs, perennials, and shrubs need less fertilizer; a ½-strength solution applied once a month through August is enough.) Grooming. Remove spent flowers regularly and prune the stems of vigorous growers to keep them in check. Preparing for winter. Where winter temperatures drop well below freezing, containers should be dismantled in fall. Bring tender plants indoors or toss them on the compost heap; plant hardy bulbs, perennials, and shrubs in the ground. Most containers should be emptied and stored under cover where they will not freeze; only plastic and fiberglass pots can be left outside. In mild-winter climates Zone 8 (10 F) and warmer hardy plants can generally be left outdoors in containers with little risk. D B B A C D WATERING Water thoroughly after planting, and keep a close eye on the plant over the following week. If you see it wilt on a hot, sunny day, check the soil to a depth of about 1in. If dry, water thoroughly. If the soil below the surface is moist to the touch, don t water. The plant is probably wilting because the roots are unable to supply the top with sufficient moisture even though the soil is damp. Provide some shade for the plant and within a week or so, the roots should catch up, and you can remove the shading. After the first week, give a new plant a good soaking once a week during summer, unless there is more than 1in of rainfall per week. Established plants can get by on less water, but most grow best if the soil remains evenly moist. Please note that more water is not better. When in doubt, don t water. THE VALUE OF MULCH You can reduce both your watering and weeding chores drastically if, in spring, you cover the soil surrounding your plants with a 2 3in blanket of mulch. Mulch is any loose material spread over the soil to conserve moisture, inhibit weed-seed germination, and moderate soil temperature. We recommend an organic mulch (chipped or shredded bark, shredded leaves, or pine needles) because it breaks down and enriches the soil. Keep mulch an inch or so away from the crowns of plants to discourage disease. Replenish the mulch as necessary every year. Please note that a layer of mulch will not by itself prevent winter damage. See Winter protection below. FERTILIZING Perennials, shrubs, and vines. We recommend against fertilizing these at planting AFTERCARE time because some fertilizers can injure roots. Furthermore, we recommend against fertilizing them during their first growing season in your garden. They need time to settle in before being pushed to grow. Most established plants grow best if fertilized with a light hand. We fertilize borders, specimen trees, and shrubs just once in early spring with a balanced, granular fertilizer (such as or our organic fertilizer) to give a light but even coverage of the soil. For most plants in most soils, this single feeding is enough. Roses are notable exceptions. WINTER PROTECTION In cold-winter climates (Zone 6 [-10 F] and colder), thawing and freezing of the soil can heave the crowns of newly planted perennials and small shrubs out of the ground, leaving roots vulnerable to drying winds and freezing cold. In Zone 6 (-10 F) and colder, all bulbs planted at a depth of less than 6in benefit from winter protection. To protect plants and bulbs during their first winter, put a 4 6in layer of straw, oak leaves, or evergreen boughs (cut into 1 2ft lengths) over the crowns after the ground freezes (generally in December here in Litchfield). Avoid covering the evergreen foliage of plants such as Digitalis and Dianthus. In cold winter areas, the fleshy rhizomes of Tall Bearded Iris (Iris germanica) are best covered with 1 2in of sand topped with a light layer of evergreen boughs, applied after the ground freezes. Remove winter cover from your plants gradually in spring when frosts become infrequent, usually at about the time Daffodils and Forsythias are in bloom. Apply winter protection in fall and wait until spring to add mulch. 8 9

5 PEST AND DISEASE CONTROL Like many gardeners, we are aware of the hazards indiscriminate spraying may cause to beneficial organisms, to ourselves, and to wildlife. We follow the measured approach to pest control outlined below. Meet the needs of your plants. Plants are less likely to suffer from pests and diseases when their cultural needs are met. If you have a plant with a consistent problem, learn more about its needs and address them. In many cases, the solution is to relocate it to another part of your garden with more suitable conditions. Practice garden sanitation. Destroy infested plants to prevent pests and diseases from spreading. After hard frost in fall, uproot annuals, cut down all but evergreen and semiwoody perennials, and rake up leaves to remove cover for overwintering insects and diseases. Learn to identify pests and diseases. Before deciding whether to control a pest or disease, you must identify it. Different measures are effective against different pests. For example, an insecticide may be ineffective in controlling mites, which aren t insects (they are spider relatives). Use the least toxic control. Attempt to control pests and diseases only when they threaten the health of a plant (a little nibbling doesn t warrant intervention), and then choose the least toxic control available. A range of biological controls are now available. If you do use pesticides, follow the instructions carefully. FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS HOW DO I TELL THE TOP OF A BARE- ROOT PLANT FROM THE BOTTOM? It s not always easy to tell which end of a bareroot perennial is up. In their dormant state, some plants Ferns and Liatris are good examples may lack obvious roots. Look for buds or the remains of stems and leaves, and plant them facing up. When in doubt, lay the crown on its side; the plant knows to send shoots up and roots down. ALL OF MY PLANTS WERE PLANTED AT THE SAME TIME. WHY ARE SOME NOT GROWING YET? Plants, even those of the same variety, can vary in their overall rate of growth as well as the time when they begin to grow each year. Allow new plants 2 4 weeks after planting to make their appearance. Some plants, notably Asclepias, Baptisia, Hibiscus, Platycodon, and Wisteria are extremely slow to break dormancy the first year after planting, often taking 6 10 weeks to leaf out. Dormant plants put into the garden in fall won t show signs of growth until next year. Dormant woody plants, whether bareroot or pot-grown, vary widely in the timing of their return to active growth. If a plant is slow to leaf out, gently scratch the bark near the base of the plant with your fingernail. If the inside is green, the plant is still alive and is just taking its time. Please be patient. WHY DIDN T MY NEW PERENNIALS OR SHRUBS BLOOM THE FIRST YEAR? Many plants grow slowly and bloom sparsely, if at all, for the first year or two after transplanting. Once their roots have become established, the plants take off with vigorous growth and abundant flowers. Your patience will be rewarded. LEAVES OF MY NEWLY PLANTED PERENNIAL LOOK WILTED. WHAT SHOULD I DO? Check the soil around the plant with your finger to a depth of about 1in. If the soil is dry, water thoroughly. But if the soil below the surface is moist to the touch, don t water. The plant is probably wilting because the roots are unable to supply the top with sufficient moisture even though the soil is damp. The remedy is to provide temporary shade for the plant. Within a week or so, the roots should catch up, and you can remove the shading. Please note: Overwatering causes a plant s roots to rot, and its leaves will then wilt because they are not receiving sufficient water. WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF OVERWATERING? If plants wilt when the soil is moist, they may be getting too much water; wait until the soil has dried 1in from the surface before watering. Overwatering can also cause leaves to turn yellow or black. WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF OVERFERTILIZING? Overfertilizing can cause young plants to die back rapidly. Leaves may yellow or brown right after your plants have been given fertilizer. Be sure to follow the manufacturer s recommendations for diluting liquid fertilizers and applying granular fertilizers. WHAT IS CAUSING MY CLEMATIS VINE TO WILT? If your Clematis is wilting even though the ground is moist, it probably has a fungal disease called Clematis wilt. It usually strikes in late spring, just as many varieties are beginning to bloom. If your Clematis wilted suddenly, cut the vines back to healthy growth to the ground if necessary. An otherwise vigorous plant will respond from below the soil with new growth. LEAVES IN MY GARDEN HAVE A WHITE COATING. WHAT IS IT? The leaves of certain plants (such as Phlox and Pulmonaria) are more susceptible to a fungus called powdery mildew, especially when soil conditions are dry. Water deeply during dry spells to reduce the incidence of disease, and dust with sulfur (available at garden centers) beginning in early summer. Thinning ½ the shoots of Phlox when 6in tall in spring also provides better air circulation and helps keep mildew at bay. HOW CAN I CONTROL SLUGS IN MY GARDEN? Set out shallow bowls of beer (any inexpensive brand is effective) to catch and drown slugs and snails. Thin strips of copper seem to create an effective barrier when wrapped around the bottom of plant pots or formed into a collar on the ground around favorite plants. You might also try using diatomaceous earth (available at many garden centers) as a barrier or (in the South) mulch with Zoysia clippings. SOMETHING IS DESTROYING LEAVES ON MY LILIES WHAT CAN I DO? If there are soft-bodied larvae and bright scarlet and black adult beetles about ¼ ⅜in long on your plants, they are lily leaf beetles. Pick the adults and larvae off your plant and drop them into a container of soapy water, and squish any orange-red eggs attached to the undersides of the leaves. You can also spray your plants with BioNeem (following the manufacturer s directions). HOW CAN I KEEP DEER AND RAB- BITS AWAY FROM MY PLANTS? The most permanent (and costliest) defense against deer is a fence that is 8ft high. To deter rabbits, install a fence that is 3ft above ground, with 12in buried below ground. Repellent sprays work with varying degrees of effectiveness

6 CLEMATIS Plant Clematis vines in full sun in the North and all but the warmest inland areas of the West (C. terniflora [C. paniculata] also tolerates some shade); partial shade is best for most varieties in the South. Evenly moist but well-drained soil with a ph close to neutral (add lime if your soil is extremely acid). Set the crown of both bareroot and pot-grown plants more deeply than you would other woody plants: fully 2 4in below soil level. Provide support for your vine, as Clematis climb by means of grasping, twining petioles (leafstalks). If planting near a Rose or shrub, locate the Clematis a few inches away from the supporting plant, on whatever side is most convenient. Early next spring, after their first winter in the ground, prune the stems of all varieties to the lowest pair of healthy buds. Thereafter, prune to control size and shape or to encourage more profuse bloom according to the following divisions. Group 1: Blooms in early spring on the previous year s stems. Prune after flowering has finished to control height and shape of the vine and to remove dead or damaged stems. The current year s new growth will form flower buds for the following year. Includes: Stolwijk Gold. Group 2: Blooms from late spring to early summer on new sideshoots arising from the previous year s growth and reblooms in mid- to late summer on the tips of new stems. Prune lightly in early spring before growth begins, to remove dead or weak stems and to shorten remaining vines to a pair of healthy buds. Includes: Arctic Queen, Cezanne, Chantilly, Cherokee, Clair de Lune, Crystal Fountain, Empress, Fireworks, Franziska Marie, Ice Blue, Josephine, Piilu, Rebecca, Rosemoor, Sugar Candy, and Wisley. Group 3: Blooms in late summer to fall on the current year s growth. Prune back 12 hard each year in early spring before growth begins, cutting back all stems to 12 18in tall. Includes: Avant-garde, Bonanza, Etoile Violette, Parisienne, Rhapsody, Suberba, C. florida Plena, C. florida Sieboldii, C. recta Purpurea, and C. terniflora (C. paniculata). Clematis grow best when their roots are kept cool; plant annuals or shallowrooted perennials such as Campanulas at the foot of the vine to shade the root zone. Do not use thick mulches in summer, as they can promote Clematis wilt, a fungal disease that causes all or part of the foliage to wilt, usually in late spring, just as many varieties are beginning to bloom. If your Clematis wilts suddenly, cut the vines back to healthy growth to the ground if necessary. An otherwise vigorous plant will resprout from below the soil. HYDRANGEA Hydrangeas vary widely in their sunlight requirements (see the plant label for the needs of your plant). All thrive in moist but well-drained soil. Pruning varies by variety. Because it flowers on the current season s growth, H. paniculata Grandiflora is best pruned in late winter. The flowering stems of H. macrophylla and H. quercifolia should be removed after bloom in fall. Deadwood on these varieties should be removed as new growth emerges in spring. Regularly deadheading the blooms of H. macrophylla Endless Summer and H. m. Blushing Bride helps encourage repeat bloom on the current year s growth. BEARDED IRIS Bearded Irises (Iris germanica) are available in a veritable rainbow of colors and some varieties rebloom in late summer, or even later in warmer areas. Please note that Bearded Irises may not bloom the first year. Full sun and well-drained soil are important for vigorous growth and flowering. Do not overwater, as too much mois- whiteflowerfarm.com/gardening-help Planting a Bearded Iris ture can cause the rhizomes (roots) to rot, but do water deeply during summer drought. Consistent watering is especially important for reblooming Irises. Irises will not tolerate soils that are wet in winter. Good drainage is important all year, and a ph near neutral (7.0) is preferred. In climates with very hot summers, plant the rhizome just below the soil surface; in cooler climates, the top of the rhizome should be exposed. Do not mulch around the rhizome as this may encourage rot. In early spring, scratch in an all-purpose fertilizer around the plants, avoiding direct contact with the rhizome. Reblooming Irises perform best if fertilized again after the first wave of flowering is finished. The Iris borer, the worst pest of these lovely plants, overwinters as eggs in spent leaves, so clean up well in the fall and don t give the critters a hiding place. If you see signs of rot in the rhizome, dig it up and remove the affected parts. Unless the infestation is severe, plants usually recover. If soft rot does occur, dig out and discard affected rhizomes and cut away any smaller areas of damage. Well-drained soils are important, so add sand if your soil is heavy. Make sure the top of the rhizome is above the soil line. Divide your Irises when the clump Plant the fleshy rhizome at, or just below, surface of soil. Rhizome becomes crowded and bloom diminishes, usually every 3 4 years. The timing of division is very different than that of most perennials, because Bearded Irises go dormant shortly after flowering, and summer is the ideal time to dig up the rhizomes. Even though reblooming Irises don t go dormant, this is also the correct time to divide those varieties. Break the rhizomes into pieces or cut them with a sharp knife. Select divisions with healthy fans of leaves, most likely from the outermost part of the plant. Discard the crowded interior pieces, and any that show signs of soft rot; dispose of these in the trash, not in the compost. This is the time to trim the leaves back to about 6in long. Some gardeners like to dust the cut surfaces with powdered sulfur, or to dunk rhizomes in a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. We haven t found this step necessary, but it might be advisable if you have problems with rot. Replant promptly. ROSES Roses grow best where they receive at least 6 hours of direct sun per day (more sun means more blooms) and where the soil is well drained. They tolerate a range of soil types (from sand to clay) if the soil is prepared at planting time. The Rose growing guide in the Gardening Help section of our Web site contains information about planting and caring for Rose standards. Planting. Before planting a bareroot Rose, remove and discard the packing material and soak the roots for a few hours (not days). Then dig a planting hole that allows sufficient room for the depth and spread of the roots. (If you re planting a Climbing Rose, locate the hole so that the base of the Rose will be about 1ft from the foot of the trellis.) Discard ⅓ of the soil dug from the hole and replace it with at least as much organic matter such as compost, aged manure, or leafmold and mix this into the remaining soil. Next, set the plant 13

7 in the hole so that the bud union (the bulge where the top was grafted onto the rootstock) or the point where the first branch leaves the main stem (on Roses that were not grafted) is 3in below the surrounding soil in the North, and at the same level or an inch above the soil in mild-winter climates (see drawing at right). Then push the mix of soil and organic matter back into the hole, tamping firmly as you go. Water thoroughly. Mound soil around the canes to a height of 12 15in. This prevents the canes from drying out in the sun and wind. Check the canes every couple of days for new growth, and remove the mounded soil gradually once growth appears. Moisture needs. Newly planted Roses need the equivalent of 1in of water per week throughout their first growing season. If water doesn t fall from the sky, you must supply it. A generous layer of organic mulch (compost or composted manure is best) helps keep the soil evenly moist. Fertilizing. With the exception of the species (which should be fertilized as directed on p9), Roses grow more vigorously, bloom more prolifically, and show greater resistance to diseases if fertilized several times during the growing season in early spring (except the first spring after planting), immediately after the first wave of bloom, and again in early August. (Gardeners in the South and West may wish to fertilize more frequently monthly from early spring until June, pausing during the heat of summer, and beginning again in August and September to close out the season.) We like natural fertilizers (such as fish emulsion or seaweed extract) because they release nutrients more slowly and evenly than chemical fertilizers do. About pests and diseases. The Roses we offer were selected for their vigor and their resistance to pests and diseases. If planted and grown as we suggest, they will be healthy, and healthy plants are much less Planting a Bareroot Rose Graft 3in Soil level Plant a bareroot Rose so that the top of the graft, or the point where the first branch leaves the main stem, is 3in below soil level in the North, and at the same level or 1in above where winters are mild. Mound soil around the canes to a height of 12 15in. This prevents the canes from drying out in the sun and wind. Check the canes every couple of days for new growth, and remove the mounded soil gradually once growth appears. troubled than plants under stress. Even if a healthy plant does suffer at the hands of a pest or disease, it will likely endure and recover without intervention on your part. Some Roses are prone to fungus problems (such as black spot) in hot, humid areas. Cleaning up old foliage and cutting back affected canes is important for disease control. Spraying the leaves with Bordeaux mixture, a copper-based fungicide, can help once symptoms appear. Pruning. Prune Roses to remove deadwood and to control ungainly growth. Deadwood can be removed at any time. Other pruning should be done in early spring on Climbers, Rugosas, English, and Modern Roses. At that time, remove any weak or crossing branches. If the bush has become too tall, the stems may be cut back by ⅓ to ½. With the exception of Rugosa Roses, which produce attractive hips (fruits), remove the spent flowers of reblooming Roses to promote more bloom, cutting the stems back to the first large bud at the base of a set of 5 leaflets. The Climbing Rose New Dawn reblooms best if stems are cut back to the second set of 5 leaflets. Do not prune Roses in fall; wait until spring to prune any branches injured over winter. Overwintering. The best way to get Roses through winter is to choose varieties adapted to your climate zone. That said, if you live near a Rose s cold limit and you garden on an exposed site or in an area with rapid temperature fluctuations, you should mound two shovelfuls of garden soil, composted manure, shredded leaves or compost over the base of the plant in late fall ideally after the ground freezes. Pull the material away as new growth emerges in spring. Planting a Bareroot Tree Peony TREE PEONIES Choose a site in full sun or partial shade (partial shade is recommended in the South and warm inland areas of the West). Plants require evenly moist but well-drained soil with a ph close to neutral. If your soil is extremely acid, mix a handful or two of lime into the soil at planting time. Take care to plant at the depth indicated by the green plastic ribbon wrapped around the main stem (see drawing at left). Remove the ribbon after planting. If the ribbon is missing, plant the top of the graft union, which appears as a bulge on the main stem, about 3 4in below the surface of the soil. Tree Peonies respond well to an annual topdressing of 1in of compost or aged manure; no other fertilizer is necessary. The only regular pruning required is to remove deadwood after the plants leaf out in spring and to remove spent flowers. Tree Peonies are grafted onto Herbaceous Peony roots and occasionally a shoot from the rootstock will push through the soil. Remove such shoots as soon as they appear. In cold-winter climates (Zones 4 [ 30 F] through 6 [ 10 F]), provide winter protection, especially the first winter after planting. We recommend covering plants with an inverted basket (do not use a plastic bucket) or a burlap screen. In warmer zones in the West, you may need to force plants into dormancy by withholding water. Tree Peonies need some time to settle in before they bloom; it s not unusual for a plant to wait until its third spring before it flowers. In addition, Tree Peonies are often slow to break dormancy the first spring after planting. Your plant may look dead while its neighbors are springing to life, but it will awaken soon enough. Please note: Tree Peonies are shrubs. Never cut them down as you would an Herbaceous Peony in the fall Green plastic ribbon Top of graft 3 4in Soil level Dig a hole about 12 15in wide by 15 18in deep. Position your Tree Peony so that the green plastic ribbon wrapped around the stem is at soil level. Remove the ribbon after planting. If the ribbon is missing, plant the top of the graft 3 4in deep.