INTRODUCTION. It is not a specific species of plant but may be any one of hundreds of thousands of trees, vines, shrubs, or even weeds.

Transcription

1 Basic Bonsai Book 1

2 INTRODUCTION The word BONSAI is the Japanese translation of the Chinese character The Chinese translation Pun-sai is currently commonly used to mean dwarfed ancient trees without landscapes. It is pronounces BONE-SIGH. A Bonsai is a living plant; miniaturized through the diligent and persistent use of certain horticultural practices, trained to emulate a tree in nature, and grown in a small pot. It is not a specific species of plant but may be any one of hundreds of thousands of trees, vines, shrubs, or even weeds. The plant chosen for Bonsai training may be started from a seed, cutting, purchased from a nursery, or collected from the wild. In all ways, a healthy Bonsai will behave exactly the same as its brother in the ground. If the plant would normally grow dormant in the fall, flower, or bear berries or fruit, it will do so in Bonsai. It will also take as long to come to maturity and have the same span of life, except that it may outlive the same species in its native habitat. In terms of its esthetic properties, a good Bonsai has: 1. Wabi: loosely translated as the ability to transport the mind of the viewer to a scene in which he could imagine such a tree belonging. In essences, it is an experience. 2. Sabi: the sense of singularity of apartness which any truly beautiful natural scene possesses. 3. Shibui; of mellow and serene quality in the mind of the viewer. Quiet good taste, not overstated. Bonsai must suggest their scene, not so define it that it ceases to be a personal experience on the part of the viewer. BONSAI is the only living art form known to man. It is an art of illusion, in which the artist is challenged to create the impression of age, mass and weight of the elements in a miniature replica of a natural tree. 2

3 A LEGACY OF CENTURIES Bonsai originated in China some 1,700 years ago, during the T sun and the Tang Dynasties. Objects noted in paintings of the Tang and the Sun Dynasties ( ) include the pine, cypress, plum, orchid, chrysanthemum and bamboo - all in pots. These earliest pot grown specimens were natural trees molded, by the rigors of harsh seasons on cliffs and mountain tops, interestingly shaped natural dwarfs. They were rare and very expensive. During the Yang Dynasty ( ), Bonsai was introduced into Japan, when Japanese ministers, merchants, and students who had visited China, brought dwarfed tree culture back home with them when they left the country. The techniques of artificial shaping, which were at first used only to compensate for natural defects, began to evolve during the Tokugawa Era (17th-19th centuries) in Japan. Conception of the idea and development of the techniques to dwarf plants from ordinary seedlings and cuttings was only a matter of time, and with this, the ownership of the fine Bonsai came within the reach of anyone with the patients and basic skills necessary to care for it. Bonsai first appeared outside of Asia at an exhibition in London in This was followed with the publication of Norio Kobayashi s book, BONSAI, by the Japanese Travel Bureau in 1951, and the horticultural techniques of growing dwarf trees became generally available to Americans. CARE OF YOUR PLANT BEFORE BONSAI TRAINING The drastic top to root pruning required to transform an ordinary plant into a Bonsai is a shock to the plant which may result in its death. The steps outlined below will increase its chance to survive. 1. Remove excess soil above the level of the surface roots. Excess soil around the base of the trunk is bad for the plant. 2. Check the plant carefully for signs of insects or disease and treat accordingly. Do not attempt to place it in a bonsai pot until you are certain it has regained its health and vigor. 3. Make certain your plant is never allowed to become bone dry. Small feeder roots so necessary for its survival in bonsai would be irreparably damaged. 4. Fertilize regularly during the growing season. The amount and type is dependent upon individual circumstances and personal preferences. 3

4 5. Apply a special booster application of fertilizer approximately three weeks prior to training. A great deal depends on the plants inter strength. (Dormant deciduous trees are the exception.) 6. In the 24 hours immediately preceding pruning and wiring allow the soil to become somewhat dry. The trunk and branches will be more pliable and less likely to be damaged or broken during wiring. 7. Same as (6) immediately preceding root pruning and potting. Dry soil is more easily broken up with less resultant damage to tender roots. 8. Prepare a place for your new bonsai. The best exact location depends upon the particular species of the plant in question and location circumstances. Consult your instructor or research the tree s needs on your own. CARE OF BONSAI IMMEDIATELY FOLLOWING DRASTIC PRUNING AND POTTING This is the most critical time in the life of your bonsai. Here are some concrete ways you can help your bonsai through this critical time of its life. 1. Use soil that is only slightly, but evenly moist (cool to the touch). Since fibrous roots dehydrate during the cleaning and pruning process, resist the temptation to saturate the soil immediately after potting. Instead follow the procedure outlined in paragraph one, page The following morning water thoroughly with a Super thrive or Vitamin B1 solution (10 drops to a gallon of water). Place the tree in a temporary location where it will receive good light and air circulation, but be protected from direct sun, strong winds, or freezing weather. Avoid moving it unless absolutely necessary. 3. Mist the foliage several times daily, water as needed. Observe Carefully For: Signs of Stress (water weekly with Super thrive.) * Wilted or leaf drop on broadleaf plants. * Limp, dry looking foliage on evergreens. * Browning buds or twig tips. Signals of New Vigor * New buds on broadleaf plants show green. * New light green growth on evergreens. * Soil suddenly seems to dry out faster than usual - a certain sign that new roots are functioning. 4

5 4. Hardening off - a gradual return to normal. Begin exposing the tree to some direct sun in the early morning; gradually increase these periods of direct exposure until the plant is receiving its full quota. If signs of stress are noted, back off on the exposure time somewhat but do not return to complete shade. Wait a week and try again. If you have successfully nursed your tree through its first three months in Bonsai, Congratulations. Chances are it will live to a ripe old age. If you failed, the fault was not with the technique, nor was it with the plant. The fault was with you. Examine the exact circumstances, seek help in analyzing the reason for its demise, learn from the experience, and try again. YOU WILL NEVER SUCCEED WITH BONSAI UNLESS YOU ARE DETERMINED TO DO SO. GENERAL CARE SUNLIGHT JUST AS A PLANT CANNOT LIVE WITHOUT WATER AND FOOD, IT CANNOT GROW WITHOUT SUNLIGHT. Through the process known as PHOTOSYNTHESIS. Raw materials (which plants cannot use) are converted by the power of the sun s rays into sugars (which the plants can use). Given insufficient lighting for photosynthesis a plant will draw upon stored sugar to maintain the vital life processes. Denied this necessary light for too long it will use all this stored sugar and simply starve to death. Trees vary with respect to the light intensity at which maximum photosynthesis occurs. Some plants can survive and grow under very low filtered light (green or yellow rays). While others require the full direct (blue-violet) rays of the sun. It is this variation which determines whether or not your bonsai will survive indoors. In general, the larger the leaf the less light needed for photosynthesis (needle evergreens needing more direct light). It is important that you learn the specific light requirements of each plant and see that it receives its full quota. NOTE: Turn your plant frequently so that it receives light equally on all sides. Otherwise, it will grow lopsided and limbs kept on the shady side may eventually die. WARNING: Light and heat are two different things. Direct sun shining on bonsai pots may generate heat sufficient to burn tender roots. Find a way to give your plants enough sun and still protect them from too much heat in mid-summer. 5

6 GENERAL CARE WATERING It is believed that more bonsai are lost through incorrect watering than any other cause. Plants, like people, cannot survive without water, but for potted trees, too much is as bad as too little. The instructions sound simple: When the surface of the soul feels dry to the touch, water the plant until the entire root ball is moist. Do not water again until the surface soil again feels dry. With bonsai this can be often as three (3) to four (4) times a day, depending on the individual circumstances. The secret is in the feel of the soil that is bone dry, moist, wet or soggy: Bone Dry: (The complete absence of moisture in the soil.) While there are some plants (Sand Pines, Japanese Black Pines, Boxwood, Junipers, etc.) that like their soil a little on the dry side, no plant can stand a bone dry condition for very long. Moist: (Soil feels cool to the touch, is loose and crumbly.) This is the best and safest soil condition for most plants. Wet: (The saturation point for granulated soil, particles cling but separate easily.) A soil condition appropriate for bog plants such as cypress, tupelo and maple. Something is wrong if bonsai soil stays at saturation point for very long. Either pot drainage is poor or the plant s roots are not functioning. Look for the problem and correct it. Soggy: (The saturation point for muck, clay and other soils with very small grain. Pack into a small, soil ball when squeezed together.) As bad as bone dry. Tolerated by very few plants. This soil leaves no air space and plants literally drown. Caution: The soil will feel deceptively moist immediately after the foliage is misted. This is surface moisture only, and soil underneath may be dangerously dry. Do not be fooled by it. If you discover your bonsai has been allowed to become bone dry. DO NOT plunge it in a pan of water in an attempt to wet the entire root ball. DO mist the foliage lightly and place it in the shade until late evening. At which time, move it out in the open air and allow it to remain there over night. The due will revive the fibrous roots and it can be safely watered thoroughly the following morning. To water a bonsai correctly you must also know the specific needs of the plant in question. In general: A newly potted plant will use less water than one which is established. A plant in a small pot will need water more frequently The larger the leaf the more water the plant will use. 6

7 A plant will need water more frequently in hot sun or windy weather. Less will be needed in winter or a tree is dormant. General Care Feeding The fertilizer you chose to feed your bonsai is largely a matter of personal preference, so long as it. 1) is a safe strength, 2) supplies the plant s immediate needs in its particular stage of development, 3) is applied regularly. There are two basic kinds of fertilizer, organic and inorganic. Organic: Composed of natural Animal or plant products. These fertilizers must be converted, by micro-organisms in the soil, into simpler materials which the plant roots can absorb and use. They are slow acting but long lasting. Inorganic: Man-made products. Inorganic fertilizers are predigested and can be used by the plant immediately. Some are so completely broken down that they can be absorbed directly into the leaf. The results are short lived. All fertilizers, whether organic or inorganic, contain one, two, or three major nutrients, plus minor elements, in varying quantities and strengths. Listed in order of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash or potassium, the percentages of these three major nutrients can be found on the label of all commercial fertilizers. (Example: ) The nutritive values and best uses for some of the raw, unprocessed organics, which may be regionally available, are given below. Unprocessed manures: Animal waste has the highest nutrient value of any organic fertilizer. Use decayed manures, never fresh material Poultry 1.5/1/.5 Cow.4/.3/.44 Horse.76/.56/.65 Sheep.95/.35/1 Sewage sludge 6/4/.04 (Available dried from sewage treatment plants) Liquid Blood 12/0/0 (High in iron content. Quick acting. Very good for pines and carnivorous plants. Mix with water to a pale pink. (1 T to 2 cups)) Seaweed Fish 1.5/.75/5 (Contains over 50 trace elements. Wash away any salt residue and liquidize in blinder.) 8/6/2.5 (Dried bits and pieces may be used in the bottom of pots as is or ground to a meal and mixed with soil. May also be liquidizing.) 7

8 Nitrogen promotes strong growth of shoots and leaves and is an essential constituent of the green coloring matter (chlorophyll). An excess of nitrogen, especially if associated with a deficiency of phosphorus and potash, results in too much lush growth with flimsy development of cell walls. Plants deficient in nitrogen will be pale, yellowish, unhealthy color and will put on little or no new growth. Phosphorus is concerned with flowering and production of fruits and seeds. It promotes strong root development, stiffens plant stems and makes them woodier. Potash or Potassium also has a stiffening influence on the stems of plants and may help them resist disease. In common with phosphorus, it helps prevent the characteristic rank growth likely to ensue when there is an over abundance of nitrogen. Other minor elements, necessary for the health of your tree, are usually available in sufficient amounts in the soil, with the possible exception of iron. Chlorosis - the lack of natural green color in the leaves - is often caused by a deficiency of iron, as iron is necessary for the proper utilization of available nitrogen. Leaves of a plant suffering from chlorosis are yellowish while the veins of the leaf remain a normal green. Apply Iron chelate to the foliage and roots or water twice weekly with liquid blood. Caution; use extra care in mixing any fertilizer to be used on bonsai. Tender roots can easily be burned by a too strong mixture. It is always better to use a weaker strength and apply it more often. Never feed a plant when it is dry or when it is in an unhealthy condition. Soils The soil mix chosen for bonsai is vital. Since your tree s roots cannot reach out beyond the confines of its small pot, it will be forced to depend on this soil to sustain life for one, two or maybe three years. This soil must meet four major criteria: 1. It must remain loose and porous so that the tree s roots can breathe. 2. It must hold water sufficient to meet the plant s specific moisture requirements. 3. It must contain or be capable of absorbing and holding a continuing and constant supply of essential food elements. 4. It must be (or amended to) the proper ph balance. Soil Components LOAM A rich, friable soil. (Must be sterilized and put through sieves to remove silt and sort particles by size.) Fertility and water holding capacity varies with the source and composition. 8

9 MULCH Used to loosen the soil, increase its water holding capacity and add fertility which is released slowly as micro-organisms break it down into humus. LEAF MOLD (Must be sterilized.) Partially decayed leaves are best; new ones must be dried and shredded. Ph depends on the source; water holding capacity depends on age. SAWDUST (Must be aged and of the right particle size.) Convenient to use if available; holds considerable water while still providing good aeration; breaks down very slowly. Ph depends on the source. PEAT (Shredded) Holds more water than leaf mold or sawdust; breaks down very slowly; refuse to pack. Ph strongly acid. CONDITIONERS Raise or lower the soil s saturation point and insure permanent aeration. Unlike mulches these materials hold their granular structure indefinitely. SHARP SAND Aquarium, well-point, river sand CHICK GRIT or DECOMPOSED GRANITE Holds almost no water and, by its sharp nature encourages good root ramification. CALCINED CLAY (A specially processed clay sold under the trade name Turface.) Sharp edges encourage good root ramification; holds much more water (8T to a cup) then sand. PERLITE Smooth and lightweight; encourages root growth; holds considerable water (8T to a cup). VERMICULITE Also smooth and lightweight; encourages root growth; holds more water than any of the above (10T to a cup). AMENDMENTS DRIED FERTILIZERS Added to increase the overall fertility or fill a known deficiency. Use caution and restraint. LIME, WOOD ASHES or DOLOMITE Added to raise the Ph balance. WETTABLE SULFUR Added to lower the PH balance. 9

10 Insects and Disease Once your Bonsai is designed, every branch, every twig, even every leaf is an important element of the design. Insects or disease can destroy this design overnight. And if left unchecked may in a very short time so weaken your plant that it will die. The most destructive ones are shown below and on the pages that follow. They Cannot Be Tolerated. Ask your instructor or local county agricultural extension agent to recommend treatment as this will vary with the insect or disease, the plant, the season of the year and locally available insecticides or fungicides. Aphids in assorted colors and size, suck plant juices. They stunt growth, deform buds and flowers, pucker and curl leaves. Some aphids appear wooly or powdery because of a waxy covering. Aphids excrete a colorless honeydew which attracts ants and provides a medium for the growth of sooty mold fungus. 10

11 BORERS They damage pines, cypress, junipers and firs. Larvae of moths feed on needles then bore into the shoots or tips, or terminal bubs. The only way to prevent damage is to hit the pest before it bores in. The time to spray is when the new growth starts in spring and again two weeks later. Borers attack tips and twigs...under the bark...and near or under the ground 11

12 Mature scales are found firmly attached to the branches or foliage of woody plants and never move. They kill their host by sucking sap, and at the same time, give off a sweet honeydew which attracts ants and flies. A fungus often grows on this honeydew, giving the leaves a black sooty look. There are two basic types: Armored Scale has a hard waxy coating. Unarmored Scale are larger, softer, more likely to produce honeydew. 12

13 Bonsai or Hachi-ue? Before one can design a Bonsai you must decide, once and for all, that you want a Bonsai and not a potted plant. The difference is shaping through pruning. Bonsai are produced through the judicious use of two basic pruning techniques. No different than those used in your own back yard. THINNING OUT To remove small or large branches back to side branches or the main trunk without permanent scars or damage to the plant. Remaining desirable branches receive more light and a larger share of the available food supply. HEADING BACK Cutting a branch back to a bud or side branch. Properly executed, this technique will stimulate new growth to develop when, where and in the exact direction desired. This precise application of pruning to achieve and maintain a specific shape and size requires a deep understanding of plant growth as governed by a number of factors, some inside the plant and some outside. Plants develop in a certain way as a result of a correlation of or conflict between: 1. The preservation of life (rest, food, water, air, sunshine, etc.) 2. The will of the species. 3. The forces of nature (wind, lightning, snow, etc.) Once we understand these factors, here defined as principles of growth, we can predict that a plant will react in a specific way to a specific set of circumstances, whether created by an act of God or by man. Thus, pruning as applied to Bonsai amounts to the skillful manipulation of natural growth processes through the intelligent application of familiar pruning techniques. To accomplish this we must understand: 1. The tree s inner function under normal conditions. 2. The principles of growth which will dictate its response to our tampering. 3. The major differences between species which may alter its response. 13

14 Thirteen Growth Principles GROWTH PRINCIPLE #1 Injury causes the Cambium to thicken (callus) and close the wound. PRACTIAL APPLICATON 1. Permanent scars produced by careless pruning are undesirable on a bonsai. To avoid their development special techniques are used for large cuts (such as the removal of a large branch). Breaking can also be an acceptable technique, if made to look natural. 14

15 2. Deliberate scaring to produce a desirable thickening at a specific location (such as the base of the trunk). This is done by making several straight vertical cuts around the trunk or branch. PIPELINES GROWTH PRINCIPLE #2 Each pruning wound results in the loss of some food and nutrients to the tree. PRACTIAL APPLICATON 1. This will be a concern only on bleeders (maples, pines, etc.). If pruning is done while the sap is flowing, wounds on these trees may bleed indefinitely. Time drastic pruning carefully and seal wounds with a mud pack enriched with a couple of drops of Super thrive. 15

16 2. Flexing causes friction between the xylem and the phloem, irritating cambium cells and resulting in increased caliber. WIRING Wiring is one of the basic techniques used to shape a Bonsai. It is best learned under the guidance of an experienced culturist and practiced to perfection. Many a prize tree has been permanently ruined by careless or improper wiring or wire left on too long. Always remove it before it begins to cut into the bark. THREE MOST OFTEN USED WIRING TECHNICQUES Wire used to straighten or bend the trunk is anchored around a large root at the base of the tree. 16

17 One continuing wire is used to bend or straighten the trunk and to shape the first branch. One continuing wire is used to shape two branches. It is firmly anchored around the trunk. LEAVES Leaves are the food factories. Using carbon dioxide, water and the power of the sunlight, they manufacture sugar the basic food of all trees. Throughout the growing season, these factories are in full production manufacturing sugar for the immediate needs of the top and roots and replenishing storage cells throughout the tree 17

18 GROWTH PRINCIPLE #3 Plant growth will move in the general direction of the strongest available light. PRACTIAL APPLICATON 1. Trees are easily shortened by cutting the trunk back to a healthy side branch. The new leader will eventually assume the natural upright position. In Bonsai we help it with wiring. 2. To shorten a side branch, cut back to a bottom twig or bud. As it grows toward the sun (coming in from the side) the natural branch configuration will be maintained. GROWTH PRINCIPLE #4 The more healthy leaves a plant (or any part of a plant) carry the faster and stronger it will grow. PRACTIAL APPLICATON 1. Ideally lower branches will be the oldest and longest, with others becoming progressively younger and smaller nearing the apex. By allowing weak lower branches to grow overly long and carry extra growth, while keeping stronger upper branches cut back tight (sometimes a branch can be completely defoliated), this idea can be gradually realized. AUXINS Auxins are hormones which are produced in the extreme twig tips and new leaves. It is this hormone which controls the distribution of food throughout the plant. Its action can be compared to that of a suction cup, in that it exerts a pull for food to the growth tip in which it is being produced 18

19 GROWTH PRINCIPLE #5 When the extreme twig tip is removed, available food will be divided to other growing tips and buds. PRACTIAL APPLICATON 1. It makes no difference whether you remove four inches or just what you can grasp between your finger tips; the results will be the same. With the persistent and judicious use of this principle plus growth principle #4, you have at your command the power to completely control the tree s development. It follows that the time, place, direction and rate of growth, in the entire plant or any part thereof, will be determined by the number and location of growing tips and food processing leaves. PITH RAYS Pith Rays are special cells used for transporting fluids and stored food. Excess sugar is stored here for use when leaves are unable to manufacture enough for the tree s immediate needs. PRACTIAL APPLICATON GROWTH PRINCIPLE #6 A growing plant s survival ability, without photosynthesis is directly related to the amount of food contained in the pith rays at the time. 1. Use extra caution in pruning a plant whose storage cells can reasonably be expected to be empty (leaf drop resulting from root damage, shaded following root pruning, too long indoors, a recent bout with insects or disease which has damaged leaves, etc.) GROWTH PRINCIPLE #7 Deciduous Trees rely on food storage in the pith ray for energy needed for spring growth. PRACTIAL APPLICATON 1. Attend to all drastic pruning in the top of the tree during the dormant season. All stored food will then go to the production of desired growth. 2. Collect or root-prune just as buds are beginning to show green in the spring. Sugars will be moving up through the tree and will no longer be in the pith rays (some of which are in the roots). 19

20 3. Deciduous trees will become more twiggy and produce smaller than normal leaves if they are forced into a second spring by defoliating them during the active growing season. Do not attempt this unless you are certain the tree is healthy, strong and that it has been allowed sufficient growth to replenish its storage cells. Also be certain it will have time to fill them again before another dormant season. ROOTS Roots anchor the tree to the ground and hold it upright. They contain all the same layers as the trunk and branches except bark, which disintegrates in the moist soil as fast as it forms. They also respond to pruning just as do the limbs and twigs. Root tips are small (feeder) roots which do all the tree s searching for nutrients and water. Each root tip has a protective cap that is pushed ahead as the root tip grows, and thousands of microscopic root hairs which probe for and pick up nutrients and water from the soil. As the root tips grow and mature, or when the root cap is injured or encounters an obstacle which hinders its forward movement, root hairs begin to extend themselves becoming root tips with root caps and microscopic root hairs of their own. ROOT PRUNING 1. Cut off only enough roots to allow plant to fit into the pot. Cut off 2/3 of the tap root. The final root-mass should cover 2/3 of the inside edge of the pot at a depth of 1/3 to ½ the container s height. 2. Mound up the soil around the base of the trunk when using a shallow pot. 3. Add some coarse sand or decomposed granite to potting mixture for conifers as they need a drier soil than broad-leafed trees. (better drainage) GROWTH PRINCIPLE #8 20

21 Root growth will take the rout of least resistance in the general direction of the nearest source of food and water. PRACTIAL APPLICATON 1. Soil type and size and direction of top growth (soil directly under the tree is kept dry by toe canopy) furnish valuable clues to the location of feeder roots. Use these clues when collecting, to determine the root ball which will have to be dug up. 2. Provide a soil which will encourage the desirable root development. Smooth soil offers little resistance thus encouraging rapid root growth and the development of fewer, but larger, roots. Granular soils encourage root ramification and the development of more feeder roots. 3. Encourage over-all, even root development by making sure water and nutrients penetrate the entire soil ball. GROWTH PRINCIPLE #9 Ramification can be artificially induced by pruning. PRACTIAL APPLICATON 1. Lift and expose large surface roots (they will develop bark) to give the tree a look of stability. Then cut them back sharply just below the soil surface to reserve pot space for the more efficient feeder roots. This may have to be accomplished over a period of years rather than in one step. 2. Keep roots forever young and increase their efficiency a thousand fold by periodic, judicious root pruning and re potting in fresh, viable soil. THE CONTROL CENTER A tree is a living, growing unit whose individual parts are dependent upon the whole and the whole dependent upon proper functioning of each part. But does it have a brain? Successful tissue culture, by which entire plants are produced from a single cell, indicate that they have not one but millions of brains. Within each single living cell is the genetic blueprint for the development of the entire plant. This may be the explanation for behavior which we can predict from experience and observation but which can be proven only on the basis of life itself. GROWTH PRINCIPLE #10 A plant will divert food to flower, fruit or seed production at the expense of new foliage (procreation). Do not allow this if the plant is week. GROWTH PRINCIPLE #11 21

22 Under extreme stress a tree will kill off a part of itself (the preservation of life). Keep the tree healthy so that you can decide which part will live or be sacrificed. GROWTH PRINCIPLE #12 There is a distinct inter-relationship between top growth and root growth, not only as to size but also as to direction (the law of supply and demand). Dwarfing takes place as top pruning reduces the demand for raw products from the roots and root pruning reduces the demand for from the leaves. The tree will remain healthy so long as balance is maintained. GROWTH PRINCIPLE #13 A tree s growth habit and general adult shape is dependent upon its species. (genetic blueprint). Never attempt to design a tree in a style which is totally alien to its nature. The tree will fight you forever. Those who are best at styling have studied trees as they exist and grow in nature and as they respond to various environmental pressures. There is a shape to suit each tree within the five basic styles and their variations. FIVE BASIC STYLES CHOKKAN (Formal Upright) Straight erect trunk from the base to the apex. MOY-GI (Informal Upright) Curved trunk with the apex returning to a point perpendicular to the base. 22

23 SHAKAN (Slanting) Trunk may be straight or curved but leans to a degree which placed the apex anywhere from slightly left or right of perpendicular to level with the rim of the container. The lowest branch is spread in the opposite direction to that in which the trunk slants. HAN-KENGAI (Semi cascade) The trunk grows up and out at a considerable angle placing the tip at a point between the rim and the feet of the pot. 23

24 KENGAI (Cascade) The trunk bends down sharply over the edge of the container and extends well below it. In some cases the trunk may slant up and the major branch system form the cascade. The underside of the cascade portion is considered the front of the tree as far as branch placement is concerned. VARIATION OF THE FIVE BASIC STYLES Root-On-Rock The tree is planted on a rock with the rock substituting for a pot. A pot may be used as a base for the planting, but the roots are confined to the rock. Root-Over-Rock - Roots clasp the rock and are exposed above the rim of the poy. Tree and rock are potted as a single enitity and root tips grow in the soil in the pot. Exposed Root exagerated exposure of interesting roots above the soil surface. Windswept _ Slant style in which the limbs are all trained in the same direction. Weeping May be any of the five basic styles trained so that the limbs droop or weep. Broom Style - A relatively straight, short trunk which divides into a mass of smaller branches which grow up and out forming the grnreal outline of an upside-down broom. 24

25 Twin Trunk Two trees originating from a single root system. Trees must vary in size. Triple Trunk Three trees originating from a single root system. Trees must vary in size. Clump More than three trunks growing from a single root system. Number must be uneven (i.e etc.) and the trees must vary in size and height. Streight-Line or Raft The single root (formaly the trunk of a tree) extends in a streight line. The root is exposed above the soil level and limbs are trained as individual trees. Sinuous - The single root twists and turnes. Twin Trees Two trees, with separate root systems, potted as a single enitity. Trees must vary in size and be the same species. (This is the only exception to the rule of uneven numbers.) Group Planting (forest or grove) An uneven number of trees, usually the same species, are trained in the same basic style and potted in a single pot. Trees must vary in trunk diameter and height, BASIC PROPORTIONS The classic proportions of the formal upright style are the basic for all Bonsai. The trunk design, as viewed from the front, is roughly divided into equal thirds. The lower third is open; only trunk and surface roots showing. The center third emphasizes the structure of the branches, with some open spaces revealing portions of the trunk as it tapers toward the top. In the upper third, the main branches divide into fine branchlets and finally into a network of twigs. 25

26 BASIC DESIGN SCALENE TRIANGLER Bonsai are designed around the scalene triangle (no two equal sides). If properly shaped the tree can withstand dismemberment. This basic triangle will be evident in the whole, in each individual part, and from any angle. A B C A A B Top View C B Tree Structure C Front View 26

27 A B Side View C Branch Structure A B Top View C 27

28 Styling Procedure 1. Select front by: a. Brach occurrence b. Rootage c. View of trunk 2. Choose size of tree for good ratio of trunk diameter and cut or break away unused top. 3. Select first second and rear branch. 4. Remove lower unused branches and twigage. 5. Choose higher branches Alternating side, rear, front, etc. (higher branches become closer spaced) 6. Wire trunk to straighten if necessary. 7. Wire all branches into position. 8. Adjust branch lengths 9. Wire all branchletes trimming as necessary to remove downward and upward twiggage. 10. Clear under surface of each bough. 11. Root prune and pot in the chosen container for visual balance. 28

29 POTTING TIPS The best time for the first potting is in early spring. Shape the tree first. Pot selection depends on the shape, size and style of the tree. 1. The length of the pot is equal to about 2/3 of the height of a single upright tree or the length of a slanting tree or the height of the tallest tree in a group. A very long shallow pot may be used for a group of trees such as a raft style. 2. The depth of the pot is determined by the size of the trunk: shallow pots for slender trees; deeper pots for trees with thicker trunks. Cascade styles need a very deep pot for balance and deeper root age with the length of the tree being longer than the height of the pot so the tip hangs below the bottom of the pot. 3. Rectangular, oval or round pots should be used for: Upright, Slanting and Group styles. Round and Equilateral (square or hexagonal) pots should be used for cascade styles. 4. Single upright trees with symmetrical shape: slightly off center in rectangular or oval pot; or center in a round pot. 5. Asymmetrical or slanting tree is placed off center to length of pot with longest branches or slanted trunk directed over the body of the pot. Oval or rectangular pots are best with slanting styles. 6. Cascade trees are planted in the center or slightly to the rear of a deep pot. 7. Individual tree groups are planted in odd numbers with the tallest tree slightly off center and other trees placed so to form a triangle composition both from the side and birds-eye view. 8. The color of the pot should not distract from the tree. All bonsai look well in unglazed earth tone pots. A glazed pot may be used for deciduous trees or broad-leafed evergreens such as azaleas. The glaze color should harmonize with the blossoms. Darker color glaze is good with deep green foliage. Light color CHOOSING A POT When the color and the shape of the container in perfect harmony with the tree, it adds to the beauty and elegance of the Bonsai. Neither should predominate. Choose a pot to suit the style tree and not vice-versa. Here are some rules to guide you: 1. The depth of the pot should be equal to the diameter of the trunk at the base (except in cascades). 2. The length of the pot is determined by the height of the tree or the spread of the two longest branches. I should be a little more than 2/3 the length of the longest of these. 29

30 3. The width of the pot should be a little narrower than the spread of the spread of the two longest branches. 4. Choose the pot for a multiple style according to the size of the largest tree. Consider the rock and the tree a single entity when selecting the pot for a root-over-rock style. Deep pots which are round or square are most suitable for cascades. 5. The shape of the pot should relate to the style, shape and character of the tree. Dramatic shapes are reserved for dramatic trees. 6. Brown, gray or terracotta pots are most suitable for evergreens with the glazed, colored pots reserved for deciduous trees which put on a brilliant fall display or trees which have flowers, fruits, berries, or colorful seed pods. (Bright, bold colors are never used for Bonsai.) 7. Colored pots are selected according to the tree s most colorful feature and may blend or contrast. 8. All the same rules apply when a rock is used as a pot. NOTE: Some newly trained or collected trees require extra consideration due to root conditions. Do not rush the tree intro its permanent Bonsai pot. Pot it in a training pot for a year or so and bring the root system down gradually. POT AND TREE TOGETHER The tree is designed. The pot is chosen. Together they compose the final composition called Bonsai. 1. The long side of an oblong or rectangular pot is places in the front. 2. Either the flat side or the corner of a square pot may be chosen for the front. 3. If the pot has three feet, either one of the feet or one of the notches may be placed in the front. For a cascade Bonsai, one of the feet is placed directly under the cascading trunk for balance. 4. One of the sides would be the front on a shallow hexagon pot. 5. A corner is placed as the front on a deep hexagon pot. 6. The tree is never placed in the exact center of the pot. Dividing the pot into 4 equal sections, the tree is planted behind and to the left or right of dead center the degree being determined by visual balance. 7. The tree is never potted so that the base of the trunk is level with the rim of the pot. It is, instead, placed on a mound of soil sufficient to raise the bole the same or a little more than the depth of the pot. This position provides the best visual impact of any exposed surface roots and is healthier for the plant. 8. Prune the roots as nearly as possible to conform to the shape of the pot. This will serve to further unify the final composition. 9. Occasionally reassess the relationship of the Bonsai to the pot. With the passing of time, the tree will grow and a new pot may be needed. 30

31 In order of importance: WHAT MAKES A GOOD BONSAI? 1. All the signs of good health and stability such as leaf color and well settled, natural looking moss. None of the signs carelessness and abuse such as badly healed pruning scars or scars from wiring or wires left on too long. 2. A strong, well shaped trunk springing naturally from the soil and moving upwards to the apex in an even taper. Never abruptly chopped off somewhere in the middle. (A jin is the exception but even this must look natural.) 3. A good fanning out of surface roots from the base of the trunk gradually disappearing into the soil. 4. A good well proportioned head of branches which are well spaced and appear to spring naturally from the trunk or from larger branches. Branches must never sprout in a fuzz from the trunk or branch which has been cut straight across, without regard for an appearance of natural development. 5. The tree is as natural looking as possible considering its species, style and small size. 6. The pot must be in proportion to the tree to form an artistic unity, 7. The tree should be placed in the pot so as to create a visual balance. If the base of the trunk is towards the right hand edge the main weight of the head should incline to the left. 8. Flowers, fruits and leaves must be in proportion. 9. A tree growing with its roots clasping a rock must really adhere, not just wrap around. 10. A tree should be planted well raised in its pot so that the bole can be clearly seen over the rim when viewed at eye level. 11. Stones, moss or other covering on the surface of the soil must look natural and in scale. Apex the extreme top of the tree. GLOSSARY Bar branches two or more branches radiating from the same trunk location Bleeding the oozing of sap. Bole tree trunk. Break-on-old-wood whether or not dormant buds on mature plants parts remain alive and capable of producing new growth. Chlorophyll the green colored matter in plants. Controlled break a deliberate, carefully controlled break used to drastically alter the shape of brittle or old hard wood. Deciduous shedding of leaves annually. 31

32 Dormant temporarily inactive. Fibrous slender, threadlike. Flexing a gentle back and forth bending. Friable easily crumbled. Hachi-ue- an untrained potted plant. Jin a completely dead tip on a trunk or branch. Ming tree an artificial replica of a living Bonsai. Ph balance The measure of acidity or alkalinity determined on a scale ranging from ph 0 (extreme acidity) to ph14 (extreme alkalinity). Photosynthesis The synthesis of complex organic materials, especially carbohydrates, from carbon dioxide, water and inorganic salts, using sunlight as a source of energy and with the aid of a catalyst (chlorophyll). Poodle-cut The stripping of all the growth down to a small clump at the extreme end of the branch to resemble a clipped poodle s tail. Ramification A configuration of branching parts. Secondary pruning A follow-up to the initial styling, periodically necessary throughout the life of a Bonsai as it grows and matures. Shari Partially peeled bark on a trunk, branch or exposed rootage. Unlike jin, some living cambium is left uninjured. Superthrive A growth stimulator. Wheel spokes Several branches radiating from the same trunk location, as the spokes of a bicycle wheel. Bibliography Information in this handout was provided by: Lynn Liggett, Basic Bonsai Student Workbook 32