Tips & Techniques for a Healthy, Beautiful Lawn

Transcription

1 Tips & Techniques for a Healthy, Beautiful Lawn Kate Painter, PhD Extension Educator Boundary County Jack Zimmer, PhD Pineview Horticultural Services Hayden, ID 1 Boundary County Extension Bonners Ferry, Idaho June 1, 2017

2 Tips & Techniques for a Healthy, Beautiful Lawn Basics by season Soils & Fertility Mowing Dethatching & Aeration Irrigation Weed Control Pests & Disease 2

3 How to Care for Your Lawn - The Basics 3 Source: Utah State University D334B

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9 Choosing an appropriate variety for your lawn 9

10 Turf species and varieties adapted to this area: Kentucky bluegrass Perennial ryegrass Creeping red fescue Chewings fescue Perennial ryegrass Tall fescue Bentgrass See EB0482E Home Lawns for characteristics of each variety. 10

11 Kentucky Bluegrass Boat shaped leaf 11

12 Perennial Ryegrass 12

13 Fine Fescue Creeping Red Fescue 13

14 Tall fescue in a Ryegrass/KBG Lawn 14

15 High Maintenance Lawns Require regular fertility, irrigation, and weed control Frequent mowing Typical varieties: Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, bentgrass 15

16 Low Maintenance Lawns Minimal mowing Minimal fertility Minimal moisture Typical varieties: Creeping red fescue Chewings fescue Sheep fescue Hard fescue Reclamation species 16

17 Soil: What s your type? A quick way to find out about the soil in your yard is to use the USDA s Web Soil Survey tool (just search for Web Soil Survey) 17

18 Easy method for determining soil structure: Add water and shake! The layers will be fairly obvious after a day. 18

19 Jar method for determining soil texture: Procedure Shake well in a jar or tube with straight sides. After 90 seconds mark where the settling point is; this is sand fraction. Let sit for 2 hours and mark the next point were settling has occurred, between these two marks is the silt fraction. Let sit overnight or even for two days and mark the top point of settling, this is clay between the last two marks. The color of the remaining water is a visual indication of the amount of organic matter; darker water is an indicator of higher organic matter. 19

20 Determine the intersect for the three components using the following figure. 20

21 Sandy loam soils are ideal for lawns 60-70% sand 30-40% silt plus clay Additions of organic matter are recommended for clay soils or soils with more than 40% silt plus clay Compost, manure, peat moss, ground bark, sawdust Beware of weed seeds in compost and manure! Work about 2 inches of organic matter into the top 6-8 inches of soil before planting 21

22 Fertilizing your lawn 22

23 Fertilizing your lawn: Nitrogen Gives plants a dark green color Promotes blade and leaf development Improves the overall quality and density of the lawn, including the root system. See North Idaho Fertilizer Guide handout for more information on fertilizers. 23

24 Fertilizing your lawn: Phosphorus Promotes early development of plants and hastens maturity Develops roots and rhizomes Phosphorus that is not immediately used by the plant is bound to the soil and is slowly metered out to the plant over time. 24

25 Fertilizing your lawn: Potassium (Potash) Provides for the overall health and vigor of the plant Provides for amino acid and protein production in the plant Increases hardiness of turf 25

26 Minor Elements 26 Some soils in the Northwest are short in minor elements. These include: 1. Calcium 2. Sulphur often deficient in N ID 3. Magnesium 4. Copper 5. Zinc 6. Boron 7. Manganese 8. Molybdenum

27 Iron Not always available in sufficient or plant available forms In some cases it is bound to the soil Good for moss control Immediate results! Non-staining forms are available Sidewalks and concrete will need to be cleaned after applying regular iron fertilizer 27

28 Slow vs immediate release fertilizers Standard fertilizers have no slow release component and are released immediately. Standard fertilizers usually last no longer than 4 weeks. Slow release fertilizers are prilled and allow for timed release. Slow release fertilizers last about12-16 weeks. 28

29 Soil testing for North Idaho Lawns Soil testing is recommended when establishing a new lawn or every 10 years for an established lawn Sample soil to a depth of 6 for new lawns and 6-8 for established lawns Randomly collect 15 to 20 cores in a clean plastic or stainless container Stay away from unusual areas, yard edges, and tree canopies Mix samples thoroughly and submit your sample to a soil testing lab 29

30 Fall Lawn Fertilization Strengthens root systems Promotes new blades, tillering Good plant health going into winter intensifies color and builds a healthier lawn that is more disease resistant and able to outcompete weeds Apply between Sept 1 and Oct 15 Use a balanced formula with slow release 30

31 Spring Lawn Fertilization Helps plants grow! Use relatively high nitrogen, immediate release formulation High iron formulas will control moss and provide a vibrant color High iron formulas will stain your sidewalks and cement! Clean after application unless a no-stain formula is used Apply in late April to mid May Adjust depending upon moisture and temperature conditions Use approximately 5 lb per 1,000 ft. 2 Even application is important to achieve uniform results! Apply half traveling in one direction and half in the other 31

32 Pineview fertilizers (available at North 40) 32

33 Summer Lawn Fertility Varies depending on conditions If yellowing occurs, fertilizer is typically needed Primarily for maintenance of color and health during summer stress Typically recommended in June July Use a slow release formulation Approximately 5 lb per 1,000 ft. 2 33

34 Organic Fertilizers COMPONENTS; 1. COMPOST 2. ANIMAL WASTES 3. MILORGANITE 4. HUMATES 5. WORM CASTINGS 6. FEATHER MEAL 7. COTTONSEED MEAL. 8. OTHERS Not necessarily safer than inorganic fertilizers! They can also be misused. Manures can contain excessive salts and weed seeds They do increase organic matter, which is a big plus! 34

35 Mowing Maintain mowing height at inches. Allows for maximum health of plant in normal and stress periods. Alternate cutting patterns. Mulching vs. Bagging: See handout Maintain sharp blades. Dull blades tear the grass and allow pathogens to enter. Cut only 1/3 of the blade in any one cutting 35

36 Rejuvenation of existing lawns Mow existing lawn as short as possible. Verticut thatch to 1/4-1/2 inch in depth Sweep debris off of lawn Broadcast seed at 4-5 lbs per 1000 square feet Fertilize with 5 lb per 1000 square feet Water lightly and frequently Mow at 2-3 inches in height Fertilize again days after initial application 36

37 Verticutting Verticutting is done using a machine much like a lawn mower except that it has many vertical blades instead of two horizontal blades. This machine is designed to cut small grooves in the lawn down through the thatch layer allowing the seed to drop into the soil. This will give you long lines of grass growing up through the thatch layer. This is a good way to seed in very thin and bare areas. 37

38 Slit-seeding machine: verticuts & seeds 38

39 Seeding bare patches 39

40 Scarifying: Removing thatch 40

41 Scarifying: Removing thatch Frequency depends on species. Bluegrass and ryegrass have less thatch build-up than fine fescues. Thatching removes excessive dead plant material that ties up nutrients and moisture and also harbors insects. Timing is critical. 41

42 Scarifying Ideally done as early as possible in the spring to allow the lawn to recover and begin its growth cycle. Remove thatch as quickly as possible. 42

43 Core aeration Needed when soil becomes compacted. Allows for movement of moisture and fertility into the soil profile. Best done in the spring of the year. Usually completed once every two to three years, depending on traffic. Removal or non-removal of cores, depending on situation. 43

44 Benefits of aerating your soil The process of aerating your lawn consists of punching holes in the lawn about ¾ around and 3 deep. Allows soil to expand and reduce compaction from traffic and heat. Better root development. Aeration also helps control thatch buildup by bringing cores of soil back up to the surface and having them filter back down into the thatch layer. This adds microbes to the thatch which speeds up its decomposition. It s like composting your grass clippings. 44

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46 Core aerator machine ALWAYS CLEAN AERATOR BEFORE USE TO PREVENT SPREADING DISEASES. 46

47 Irrigation Correct watering is essential to growth of the turf from seedling to mature lawn. 47

48 Irrigation Water plays an important role in the following: 1. Germination 2. Tissue growth 3. Photosynthesis 4. Temperature control 5. Nutrient transportation 6. Turgidity bouncing back from traffic 48

49 Water usage Determined by the following: 1. Species of turfgrass 2. Climatic factors 3. Rate of growth 4. The environment 5. Frequency and height of mowing 6. Soil type and conditions. 49

50 Determination of watering frequency INDICATORS: Footprinting disappears slowly Indicator spots dry spots with shallow soil that turn a dark bluish green Presence of high temperature and wind Soil moisture probes provide measurement of soil moisture, salinity (EC) and temperature Tensiometers measure soil moisture tension and provides data on plant available water Tuna can measurement: place several around your yard to measure weekly irrigation 50

51 Soil moisture probes provide measurement of soil moisture, salinity (EC) and temperature 51

52 Quantities of water to apply Guide is usually inches per week. Best to wet entire rootzone deeper is better. Deep watering allows roots to grow and increases health of plants. Subsequent watering is based on water use and drainage. Longer and less frequent sets are better Established lawns with good soil can be watered 3 times per week for a total of 1.5 inches of water New lawns may need to be watered up to 4 times per day for minutes each time! 52

53 Weed Control Compete with grass for moisture and fertility May grow in areas of the land with less favorable growing conditions 53

54 BLACK MEDIC 54

55 WHITE CLOVER 55

56 SPURGE 56

57 PURSLANE 57

58 PINEAPPLE WEED 58

59 PLANTAIN 59

60 OXALIS 60

61 MOUSE EARRED CHICKWEED 61

62 MOSS 62

63 MALLOW 63

64 KNOTWEED 64

65 GROUND IVY 65

66 CRABGRASS 66

67 MULLEIN 67

68 CONTROL OF WEEDS Broadleaf weeds can be controlled with 2,4-D derivatives. Vessel TM is a very effective product of this type For tough to control weeds such as annual bluegrass, bentgrass, crabgrass, and wild violet, use Tenacity at a rate of 1 tsp to 2 gal. of water. It s expensive though! 68

69 CONTROL OF WEEDS Pull them! It s good exercise! Use a weeding tool if you have arthritis 69

70 Lawn Diseases Luckily they are not too common in this region! Most are caused by parasitic fungi. All of the following factors must be present: Host plant Disease organism Method of distribution Proper conditions: Temperature Moisture Stress 70

71 Control lawn diseases with good lawn maintenance Use disease resistant varieties for your area Use proper mowing height Use sharp mower blades Aim to water deeply Appropriate timing of watering Appropriate fertilization De-thatching as necessary Chemical controls as last resort!! 71

72 DOG PATCH Dilute the impact with water as soon as possible. Reseed if necessary. Don t believe the home remedies! 72

73 DOLLAR SPOT 73

74 POWDERY MILDEW 74 This disease will go away by itself in about 2 weeks.

75 Fairy Rings Mushrooms that develop in a ring in the lawn are called fairy rings These fungi can cause the development of rings or arcs of deep green grass as well as unthrifty or dead grass when the mycelia get very dense. A practical management method is to poke all around the ring with a garden fork and water heavily. Use a surfactant (dish soap works). Fairy ring development can be traced to buried organic debris. Undecomposed tree roots, wood scraps from construction projects, and other organic debris are commonly colonized by the fairy ring fungi and should be removed before establishing a new lawn. 75

76 Necrotic Ring Spot Effects mostly bluegrass with some impact on fine fescues and annual bluegrass. Best Control Mow area short, remove soil to 4 below, fill hole with compost, reseed with Perennial Ryegrass. Some chemical control Heritage or Headway. Can be spread by contaminated aerators! 76

77 SNOW MOLD Can be white or pink Will typically go away on its own after a couple of weeks You can spray it with a fungicide that has snow mold on the label to get rid of it

78 RED THREAD Impacts perennial ryegrass. Creates a web of dead grass. Can be controlled with nitrogen fertilizer: , 10 lb per 5000 sq. ft. 78

79 RUST IN LAWNS Common in Kentucky bluegrass Most varieties are now resistant 79

80 SNOW MOLD IN TURF 80

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82 INSECT DAMAGE UNDERGROUND FEEDING INSECTS DO DAMAGE BY CHEWING OFF THE ROOTS OF THE PLANTS EXAMPLES: WHITE GRUBS & BILLBUG GRUBS BILLBUG 82

83 White Grub Damage 83

84 SURFACE FEEDING INSECTS Chewing insects At or above the soil surface Chew the side of blades Chew entire plants off at the crown Cutworms, sod webworms SOD WEBWORM 84 CUTWORM

85 Many products are available for control, once the pest has been properly identified. 85

86 SUCKING INSECTS SUCK AND EXTRACT FLUIDS FROM GRASS PLANTS Examples include leafhoppers and crane flies 86 LEAF HOPPER

87 CRANE FLY 87

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89 Thank you! 89 Kathleen Painter, PhD Ag Extension Educator Office: (208) Cell: (509) Blog: boundaryagblog.wordpress.com