Create grassed and planted areas

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1 Create grassed and planted areas Note: This section is in five parts Establish grass swards CONTENTS Part 5 Page Number Introduction...2 Grass seed...2 A) When to sow...2 B) Selecting seed C) Sowing seed...5 D) Methods of sowing...5 E) Application...5 F) Conditions...5 G) Hand sowing...5 H) Machine sowing I) Protection methods...7 J) Initial maintenance...7 Turf A) When to lay...8 B) Selecting turf...8 C) Types of turf...8 D) Size of turf...8 E) Storing turf...9 F) Inspect turf...9 G) Laying turf H) Top dressing...11 I) Cutting...11 J) Mechanically aided turf laying...11 K) Traditional turf lifting...12 L) Seed versus turf...12 M) Washed turf...12

2 PART 5 Establish grass swards Introduction Seed and turf bed preparation Establishing a good base for seeding and turfing is important to the health and vigour of the grass. The ground should be evenly firmed (not compacted) with a fine tilth, particularly for seed. A source of irrigation is important as germinating seed and establishing turf should not be stressed by drying out as this would lead to sparse, weak, seedling development and turf shrinkage. Preparation for seedbed establishment should be carried out as described in Part 3 Prepare sites for soft landscaping establishment. Grass seed A) When to sow Theoretically seed can be sown at any time but climate and season affect and control the success of seedling establishment. The most suitable times for sowing are the autumn (late August September) and the spring (April May). The best time is during the autumn as there is still residual heat in the soil and available moisture to enable the seedlings to establish well and survive the winter. Germination should take between 7 10 days. Spring sowings are generally slower to establish as the soil is still relatively cold and there is a danger of going into warm, dry spells before sward establishment.. When sowing, consider the location and geography of the site. For example, a south facing site will warm up quicker and can be sown sooner. A north facing site will be colder and sowing may have to be delayed. B) Selecting seed It is important to select the correct seed mixture for your particular site requirements. Different grass species have advantages and disadvantages in regard to, wear and tear, climate, preferred soil types, drought and disease resistance and tolerance. It is best to identify your requirements and pick the best combination of grass species, to suit the site. Grasses having the lowest growth: Browntop bent (Agrostis tenuis) Creeping bent (Agrostis stolonifera) Page 2

3 Grasses most tolerant of close mowing; Browntop bent (Agrostis tenuis) Creeping bent (Agrostis stolonifera) Grasses quite tolerant of close mowing: Chewings fescue (Festuca rubra ssp. commutata) Slender creeping red fescue (Festuca rubra ssp. litoralis) Hardest wearing grasses: Perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne) Smooth stalked meadow grass (Poa pratensis) Appropriate cultivars should be chosen from the annually produced booklet Turfgrass Seed published by the British Society of Plant Breeders and the STRI (available from STRI or from seedmen). Some examples of seed mixtures for different uses are as follows. Greens Mixture 1 The highest quality traditional green mixture for construction and renovation. 80% Chewings fescue 20% Browntop bent Mixture 2 An alternative green mixture for renovation and construction. 40% Chewings fescue 40% Slender creeping red fescue 20% Browntop bent Tees/fairway Mixture 3 A mixture for establishing and overseeding on the golf course. 25% Slender creeping red fescue 45% Chewings fescue 20% Smooth stalked meadow grass 10% Browntop bent Mixture 4 A mixture with added wear tolerance for overseeding and establishing on intensely used areas such as on small par 3 tees, municipal courses. 30% Perennial ryegrass 30% Slender creeping red fescue 30% Chewings fescue 10% Browntop bent Fairways/rough Mixture 5 An adaptable mixture for general use. 50% Chewings fescue 40% Creeping red fescue 10% Browntop bent Page 3

4 Sports ground mixtures Mixture 6 A mixture for both establishment and renovation of cricket and tennis areas as well as newly sown outfields. 30% Perennial ryegrass 30% Slender creeping red fescue 30% Chewings fescue 10% Browntop bent Mixture 7 Renovation of football, Rugby pitches and other intensely used areas. 100% Perennial ryegrass, choosing the most wear tolerant cultivars from the ' Turfgrass Seed booklet. Mixture 8 For new sports grounds and/or outfield situations. 60% Perennial ryegrass 20% Chewings fescue 15% Smooth stalked meadow grass 5% Browntop bent Mixture 9 Lower maintenance heavy-duty sports use. Playing fields and hard wearing lawns/landscape areas. 70% Perennial ryegrass 10% Chewings fescue 15% Strong creeping red fescue 5% Browntop bent For this use choose cultivars in Turfgrass Seed with good scores for slow regrowth to reduce maintenance demands. Mixture 10 A very low maintenance mixture for general landscape areas such as industrial estates, parks and housing estates. 40% Perennial ryegrass 20% Chewings fescue 20% Smooth stalked meadow grass 15% Strong creeping red fescue 5% Browntop bent Page 4

Fine turf mixtures are typically sown at 35g/m 2 and coarse turf mixtures containing ryegrass at 20 25g/m 2.

5 C) Sowing seed Before sowing seed, it is important to calculate the amount of seed mix required for a given area. First, calculate your area size in m 2 and multiply this by the amount of seed mix required per m 2, (in grams). Add 5 10% extra as a safety factor against drift and bird loss. Fine turf mixtures are typically sown at 35g/m 2 and coarse turf mixtures containing ryegrass at 20 25g/m 2. D) Methods of sowing Prior to the application of the seed mix whatever means is used, it is important to ensure that the seed is evenly mixed to ensure even distribution of the finer seeds within the mixture. E) Application Even application of the seed is important in establishing consistency in sward density. Under-application causes sparse germination leaving areas where weeds and coarse grasses can establish. Over-application can cause weakening of seedling grasses due to overcrowding which may lead to diseases. F) Conditions Soil surface should be dry enough so that it does not stick to your boots. However there should be ample moisture below the surface. Choose a calm day to sow seed, as this reduces the threat of wind drift which can lead to over and under application on areas. G) Hand sowing Large areas should be divided into smaller more manageable sections. On smaller areas mark out in m 2, this will ensure accurate sowing. If you are sowing finer seed, it may be of benefit to mix the seed with white sand to identify the areas which have been seeded. Divide the seed into two halves and broadcast by hand as evenly as possible. Half the seed in one direction and then the other half in the opposite direction. Rake seed bed lightly after sowing. Page 5

H) Machine sowing This can be achieved by either using powered or hand driven machinery. Usually done with a Drop, or Cyclone Spreader. It is important to check calibration before application.

Then sweep up the seed from the square and weigh it. Adjust the spreader if needed to get the desired application rate. When correctly calibrated, use the machine to apply the seed.

6 H) Machine sowing This can be achieved by either using powered or hand driven machinery. Usually done with a Drop, or Cyclone Spreader. It is important to check calibration before application. This can be done by sweeping a concrete area, then mark a 1 metre square. Set the machine to the required rate and pass it over the square. The spread should be checked for eveness of application. Then sweep up the seed from the square and weigh it. Adjust the spreader if needed to get the desired application rate. When correctly calibrated, use the machine to apply the seed. Be careful to keep an eye open for blockages during application. This power unit is designed to give accurate seeding with minimum soil disturbance so it is ideal for golf greens. It has special treaded high flotation tyres which produce small pockets (dimples) to form an ideal seed bed. Agitator rotor. Maintain a constant flow of seed. A rear drag brush can be added to even over surface after seeding, if required. Photograph courtesy of Blec Photograph courtesy of Blec Basic method of applying seed. The operating principle incorporates a ribbed rubber conveyor belt running the full width of the machine. Spreading rate is simple to set and markers are fitted to avoid gaps or bad overlapping. Page 6

A PTO driven machine with full width spread. Used to seed larger areas such as fairways and amenity areas. It is capable of applying 4.5 89.5kg of seed per hectare.

It is inevitable that small mammals and birds will consume numerous seeds. The type of protection used depends entirely on the size of the seeded area.

7 A PTO driven machine with full width spread. Used to seed larger areas such as fairways and amenity areas. It is capable of applying kg of seed per hectare. Soft neoprene rollers do not crush or bruise large or small seeds. Low spreading height minimises drift. I) Protection methods Protection of your seed bed is usually a case of damage limitation. It is inevitable that small mammals and birds will consume numerous seeds. The type of protection used depends entirely on the size of the seeded area. Small localised areas can be covered by netting or crossed string lines. This is impractical on a large scale. Seeds can be treated using a bird repellant. This only prevents birds eating the seed, not bathing in the dust. Scare methods such as Hawk Kites and crow scarers may be effective. Hawk Kites are hawk shaped kite like figures which are suspended from high strong nylon lines. They are moved back and forth along these lines by the wind to simulate bird movement. Crow scarers are gas guns which bang sporadically to move on birds. This may disturb other wildlife. Protecting a seeded area against people usually means roping or fencing off the affected area or, if the option is available, diverting traffic away from the area. J) Initial maintenance Germination: This can take anywhere between 7-28 days, depending on soil conditions. Photograph courtesy of Sisis When the new sward has established to 50-75mm, lightly roll. This firms the soil which has been lifted by the germinating grass and encourages seedlings to produce new shoots. After the grass becomes erect again following rolling (usually within 3-4 days). Use a rotary mower to give the grass its first cut, removing only the top mm. Autumn sown turf will require no further cutting until spring, but spring sown turf will have to be gradually reduced to its normal mowing height. During the first season of growth, use the grass area as little as possible. Lightly top dress to eliminate any surface irregularities. Introduce a normal feeding programme and maintain irrigation, especially where you have any more than 3 consecutive dry days. Page 7

8 TURF A) When to lay Turf can be laid at any time of the year, but the best period is between October and February, avoiding frost, snow or waterlogged conditions. When laying turf during the summer months, it is essential that there is available irrigation to prevent shrinking, drying out or dying. Turf is a perishable product. B) Selecting turf The sport sturf manager now has a wide choice of professional turf growers who provide grades of turf for the different needs from golf and bowling greens through to general landscaping turf. If you only require small amounts of turf, develop your own turf nursery site, this will guarantee compatibility of grass type, soil type and local climate. C) Types of turf a) High quality mature turf. This would be the first choice for the sports turf professional. Typically it is grown on a sandy loam soil and a variety of specificatons are available. For large contracts you may wish to inspect the turf production fields (or the consultant may) and obtain quotes from several suppliers. There is a British Standard for Turf for General Purposes (BS3969:1998) which gives guidance on purity etc. The UK Turf Growers Association also have their own guidelines for turf quality. b) Meadow turf. This is turf stripped from agricultural pastures, some of which may have had some treatment in terms of mowing and maintenance to make it more saleable. It may be adequate for rough landscaping but will not be of sufficiently high quality for intensively managed sports turf areas. Quality in some cases is appalling. Only buy from reputable suppliers and never from newspaper advertisements giving a mobile phone number. c) Juvenile turf. For many years there has been a small market for juvenile turf which is produced by sowing on to a soil-less medium with polythene beneath. This causes the seedlings to produce a mat of roots within the medium enabling it to be lifted and rolled up within a few weeks. It has the advantage of being weed free but needs careful aftercare, particularly irrigation. D) Size of turf Turf usually comes in strips 900mm x 300mm x 20mm thick. It should be laid within 18 hours in spring and summer and within 24 hours in autumn and winter (British Standard BS3969:1998). Do not order more than you can lay in a day. It also comes as a big roll system which consists of one piece of turf of 21m 2 in area. Smaller narrower rolls are available and cover an area of 12.5m 2. Page 8

When lifting and handling turf, observe the correct lifting procedure, holding the object close to you, lifting with a straight back, bending at the knees.

9 E) Storing turf Store turves for up to 24 hours by stacking them on cleared ground and to a height of not more than 1.4m (BS3969:1998). For longer periods of storage, lay each turf flat in a shaded position and keep them well watered; failure to do so will cause exposed roots to dry up and shrivel. When lifting and handling turf, observe the correct lifting procedure, holding the object close to you, lifting with a straight back, bending at the knees. No-one should lift a weight unaided over 25kg. F) Inspect turf When you receive your delivery of turf, the first thing you should do is inspect the health and quality of it. It will be impractical to inspect every roll, so sample the load, if unsatisfied, complain and reject turf. Page 9

G) Laying turf The preparation for laying turf is the same as for seed bed preparation. In some cases where the soil is rough or uneven, a thin skim of sand can be spread over the area and levelled.

10 G) Laying turf The preparation for laying turf is the same as for seed bed preparation. In some cases where the soil is rough or uneven, a thin skim of sand can be spread over the area and levelled. Remember that the sand has only to take up the unevenness not act as a base for laying. Laying on a heavy sand bed leads to instability and poor rooting. Lay the first row of turves Start with a single row along the side of the site closest to the stack of turves Tamp down each row of turves with a tamper made from thick boards and a pole. Gently press them down, don t beat them down. Check the level with a board and spirit level after tamping down. If there are bumps and hollows never beat the turf down with the back of a spade. You should lift the turf and add or remove soil as necessary. Inspect each piece of turf before placing it in position pull out any rosette weeds. If it is full of weeds and coarse grasses, reject the piece and place in on the compost heap. If many of the turves are unuseable and you bought good quality material, complain strongly to your supplier. Lay the second row of turves Press the turves closely together. The final piece to be laid at the end of a row should be a half-size or full-size turf. Fill the gap behind with a piece cut to fit. Never use a small piece of turf at the edge. Page 10

11 Finish laying the turves Stand on a plank never on the newly-laid turf nor on the unturfed plot. If you plan to bring turves across the turfed area in a barrow, do not overload it and lay down planks to avoid rutting. Lay the turves in straight lines. Do not try to bend them round to form curved edges lay them straight and trim off the excess later as shown below. Note that the edges of the turves in adjacent lines are staggered like bricks in a wall. After the completion of turfing, irrigate well and maintain irrigation, especially where you have more than 3 consecutive dry days. Rolling with a light roller may be necessary to firm down the turf and to ensure good root contact between the turf and base soil. H) Top dressing Top dress with the appropriate mix for your soil type. This is spread evenly over the joins in the turf and worked in by a brush or lute. This helps the turf to knit together and encourage growth. I) Cutting When the grass begins to grow in the spring, your first cut should be with the blades set high, to top the grass. Then reduce the height of cut gradually over the normal period to cut at the normal maintained height of cut. J) Mechanically aided turf laying Not all turfing jobs are back garden size. Some may require several thousand square metres or more of turf. Laying by hand would be time consuming and impractical. Instant results may be required, so seeding is out of the question. The large roll system is the answer. One important factor before using this system your soil must be evenly, well firmed, because of the weight of the turf and machinery. Turfmaster tractor mounted system lays 15m 2 in one run. Page 11

K) Traditional turf lifting Line out area to be cut in 300mm strips. Use wooden edging board and half moon iron to cut the strips. These are then cut to 900mm lengths.

12 K) Traditional turf lifting Line out area to be cut in 300mm strips. Use wooden edging board and half moon iron to cut the strips. These are then cut to 900mm lengths. Using a turfing spade, lift the turf to a thickness of just over 25mm. Place grass side down in turfing box which has a depth of 25mm and cut down using a double handled blade. L) Seed versus turf SEEDING Takes longer to bring area into play. TURFING A reduction in time before surface into play. Newly turfed green could be brought into play during the autumn, sowing you would have to wait about 20 months. Sowing season is restricted within the growing season. A much wider time span allowed for turfing. Any time of the year providing adequate irrigation is at hand. Reduced cost. Much more expensive compared with seeding, particularly on larger areas. Can select a precise mix of grass species and cultivars. Restricted to grower s choice of grasses unless custom grown. You are sowing into a uniform growing substrate. Turf substrate may not be similar to your own which may lead to management and drainage problems but can be grown on special mixes. Good surface drainage rates. Reduction in infiltration rate due to turf growing medium, particularly to golf greens. An increased management requirement to develop a mature sward. Less initial management, although with the soil layer there would be a necessity for soil exchange (hollow tining) before the green is brought into play. M) Washed turf This is a system where all the growing medium is washed out of the turf, leaving just the grass sward and the roots. This is used for re-establishing heavy wear areas particularly for winter sports, establishment of the turf is quicker and stronger. It is laid in the same way as standard turf. A major limitation with this system is that it has to be laid within 24 hours from lifting and washing. There may be a minimum order size. Also the product is perishable and aftercare must be to a high standard. Page 12

Chapter 4 - Lawn establishment

Chapter 4 - Lawn establishment Careful preparation of any site is required when a lawn is to be laid by turf or by seed. Although final seedbed preparation for sowing grass with seed is more critical than