IN THIS ISSUE: MARK YOUR CALENDARS & register for our 2018 Classes. Cooking with Herbs - Part 4. Seed Starting. Daylily Basics

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1 Bullitt County Extension 384 Halls Lane, Shepherdsville, KY (502) Fax: (502) IN THIS ISSUE: Cooking with Herbs - Part 4 Seed Starting Daylily Basics Home Invaders; Brown Marmorated Stink Bug, Boxelder Bug, & Asian Lady Beetles Check out our all new Alternative MG Program Schedule Lorilee George Lorilee George Bullitt County Extension Agent for Horticulture Upcoming meetings: Bullitt County Master Gardeners Assoc. & Horticulture Council Meet on the 1st Tuesday of Each Month February the 6th at 6pm March the 6th at 10am MARK YOUR CALENDARS & register for our 2018 Classes January Thursday the 18th at 6pm - Seed Starting Tuesday the 30th at 6pm- Insects February Friday the 9th at 6pm - Landscape Design 1 (participants must attend all 4 classes in the series) Monday the 19th at 6pm - Orchard Production Friday the 23rd at 6pm - Landscape Design 2 Wednesday the 28th 6pm - Produce Best Practices Training (formerly GAP for Farmers Market) March Monday the 5th at 6pm - Fruit Tree Sprays Friday the 9th at 6pm - Landscape Design 3 Thursday the 15th at 6pm - Hybridizing Daylilies with Donald Wolff Friday the 23rd at 6pm - Landscape Design 4 All classes offered by the Horticulture Program require preregistration. Call to RSVP so you are ensured handouts and notice of reschedule or cancellation.

2 HERBaceous Part Four Cooking with Herbs Do you eat to live, or live to eat? We must all eat, but often it s for the enjoyment of good food. Herbs are one way to fuel your body with antioxidants, dense nutrition & flavor! Although appearance, nutrition and texture are important, the seasoning of food is a critical task for any cook. In this four part series on herbs, we have discussed many ways to use herbs, how easy they are to grow at home, and the effect of the oils on our olfactory system. We covered harvesting & storage options because not all herbs are harvested when you might want them for example cilantro is ready in early spring, but if you are making salsa, tomatoes aren t ready until summer. Learning options on storing herbs allows flexibility when you cook & consume what you grow. We saw how easy making tea from herbs can be. In this last part on herbs, our focus is on using herbs for cooking. When you begin to use herbs for your cooking, pinching out the plant tops naturally causes the plant to branch out & produce more. An Herb chart is included with flavor suggestion descriptions, to help you narrow a specific herb to use in your cooking. If you do not want to grow the herb, grab a fresh or dried one at the grocery. Add a new flavor in your spaghetti sauce or pot of soup. Consider infusing an olive oil or vinegar with herbs for a more natural dressing option. Basil (Ocimum basilicum): Italian food comes to mind at the mention, or aroma of basil. Harvest basil leaves frequently to prevent blooming which reduces flavor. Italian types such as 'Genovese' and 'Lettuce Leaf' have large, sweet, green leaves that are great for pesto. They may grow up to 3 feet tall. Purple basils are mainly used for decorative value, but also make beautiful rose-colored vinegars. Lemon-scented cultivars are wonderful with fish. Some exotic basils include cinnamon basil, Holy basil (O. sanctum), camphor basil (O. kilimandscharicum), and Thai basil.

3 Chives (Allium schoenoprasum): Chives are a very easy perennial herb whose chopped leaves omit a mild onion scent used in many dishes. The grass-like dark green leaves grow to 12 inches tall. Chives have showy lavender flowers that are edible and used in salads. Chives are the smallest members of the onion family. Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum) produce long, flat leaves with a mild garlic flavor. In late summer, they produce showy white blossoms. Garlic chives thrive in full sun. They often reseed prolifically. Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum): Cilantro is an easily grown annual that is used for both its fresh young greens and for its seeds. Cilantro is used in Latin and Southeast Asian dishes. The onset of summer heat causes it to bolt quickly & go to seed, so this herb is one you want to begin to harvest in early spring and learn to store for your salsa when tomatoes are in season. If your cilantro bolts (grows a stalk and flowers), the seeds it produces are called coriander, often ground, and are used in Indian cooking and pastries. Because cilantro s life cycle wains at the onset of heat, consider a grow light indoors to maximize your production. Sow seeds every few weeks to have a steady supply of young leaves. Vietnamese coriander (Polygonum odoratum) is perennial with a flavor very similar to cilantro. It is used in warm climates because cilantro goes to seed quickly. Vietnamese coriander grows best in part shade with ample moisture. Dill (Anethum graveolens): Dill is cool-weather annual that will go to seed with the onset of hot weather. Dill readily self seeds outdoors in zone 6. Feathery young leaves are used in salads and with vegetables and fish. The ripe seeds and unripe seed heads are used in pickling. Beautiful large green caterpillars love to eat dill and are swallowtail butterfly s in the making. Do not plant dill near fennel since they can cross and produce strangely flavored seedlings. Marjoram (Origanum majorana): Marjoram is similar to oregano, but milder in flavor. It is easy to grow as an annual. Oregano (Origanum vulgare): Oregano is used to season meats, stews, soups, spaghetti sauce and pizza. Unlike most herbs, the leaves are best used dried. Oregano is a hardy perennial and

4 does well in containers. Greek oregano (Origanum heracleoticum) is highly prized for its sharp, biting taste. Parsley (Petroselinum crispum): Parsley is commonly used as a garnish. The attractively curled leaves are tasty and loaded with vitamins. Two forms are commonly available - the flat leaved or Italian parsley, and the curled or French parsley. Sage (Salvia officinalis): Sage is used to flavor soups, stews and poultry stuffing. Fresh sage has an especially nice flavor. The cultivar 'Bergarten' seems to be better adapted to heat. Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) grows to 4 feet tall with lush green leaves and brilliant red flowers in late summer. The flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. The leaves have an intense pineapple scent. Pineapple sage is usually hardy, but may succumb to a hard winter and need to be replanted. Thyme (Thymus species): Thyme is widely used to flavor many different foods. There are numerous species available, with a range of flavors and forms. Some types are mainly ornamental used for attractive growth habit and flowers. The plants are generally low growing, from virtually flat to the ground to a little over a foot tall. Many are evergreen, or have silvery, wooly leaves. In general, the taller growing species and those with smooth leaves will tolerate heat and humidity better than low growing or wooly types. Plant thyme in full sun in very well drained soil that stays dry. Winter savory (Satureja montana): Leaves are gathered before flowering to season beans and meats. Clip often to encourage flavorful new growth. Summer savory (Satureja hortensis) is an annual used to season meats and vegetables. It does not grow as well in the south as winter savory. Georgia savory (Satureja georgiana) is an excellent heat tolerant substitute for summer and winter savories.

5 Seed Starting Indoors Germinating and growing seeds saves you money, as well as provides great personal satisfaction when you do it yourself. 1. Seed Selection and Storage. It is best to start with new seed, so order only one year's supply. While some seed may be stored for several years with slight deterioration in quality, other seed may be viable for only one year. 2. Selection of Sterile Growth Medium. The growth medium, or soilless media, should be well drained and well aerated. It should be relatively low in fertilizer and sterile (free of insects and diseases). The media will consist of a mixture of two or more of the following materials: sphagnum peat moss, bark, perlite, vermiculite, coarse sand, processed bark, or expanded shale. Prepackaged media are convenient and suitable for most plants directly from the bag. They are also free from weeds, insects and diseases. Limestone and fertilizers have been added to support plants for 2-6 weeks. Most are suitable for germinating seeds as well as growing transplants. 3. Selection of Containers. Containers should be 2-3 inches deep and sterile, and should have holes in the bottom for drainage as well as for water uptake. A single container may be used for many cultivars of plants. If you desire to transplant all at once, use one container per seed type. 4. Sowing Seed. The growth medium should be damp before it is placed in the container. Fill the container to within about 1/2 inch of the rim. Seed should be scattered uniformly across the surface or sown in rows at the rate of seeds per square inch. Small seeds, such as petunia and snapdragon, should be left uncovered. Cover larger seeds with a thin layer of medium. 5. Temperature Requirements for Germination. Most seeds will germinate when grown within a F range. However, always read and follow package specifications. Once your seeds have germinated, your seedlings should be located wherever optimum temperature and light are available. This may be outside in a shady or partly-sunny location and free from frost. The chart below lists flowers whose seed germinate in 6 to 10 days at recommended temperatures. Seedlings generally can be transplanted outdoors in 5 to 8 weeks. Temperatures for Germination Flowers Temperature for seed DAY NIGHT Ageratum Alyssum Begonia Coleus Dahlia Geranium Pansy Portulaca Snapdragon Verbena Vinca

6 The second chart (below) lists vegetables whose seed germinate in 10 to 20 days at recommended temperatures. Seedlings generally can be transplanted outdoors in 8 to 14 weeks. Temperatures for Transplant Growth Germination Veggies Temperature for seed DAY NIGHT Basil Broccoli / Cauliflower Cabbage Cucumbers Eggplant Lettuce Melons Onion Peppers Squash Tomato Moisture and Humidity Requirements for Seed Germination. Maintain a constant moisture level and nearly 100 percent relative humidity is important to successful seed germination. 7. Maintenance of Sterile Conditions During Seed Germination. Disease organisms (fungi and/or bacteria) may kill seedlings during germination. Thus the medium, container, tools and even the seed itself should be sterile. Commercial media are usually sterile when purchased. However, if the medium comes in contact with objects which are not sterile, it may become contaminated. Containers and tools can be sterilized by soaking them in a 10% household bleach solution (1 1/2 tablespoon/cup of water) for 10 minutes. Using a bleach solution on metal implements may lead to rust. Be sure to clean and oil sterilized metal implements after use to reduce risk of rusting. The following suggestions should help prevent disease problems: 1. Use seed treated with fungicide. Seed packets are usually clearly marked when seeds have been treated with fungicides. Seeds are generally brightly colored (pink, purple, green). 2. Do not plant seeds deeper than necessary. 3. Keep temperature constant. 4. Provide seedlings with adequate ventilation. 5. Avoid overwatering. Timely Seedling Production Plan the seed sowing date carefully so your transplants are ready to go into your garden on time. The length of time from sowing seed until plants are ready to be transplanted depends upon the cultivar and the environment available for growing. Keep records each year for efficient production and correcting past errors. Plants that are immature should not be transplanted to the garden. Plants that have grown too long in small containers may be stunted and will not grow well in the garden. Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and onion seeds should be started between Jan. 25 and Feb. 10 and transplanted to the garden March Generally seeds of other plants indicated in the charts should be sown between March 1 and April 15 so they will be ready for the garden after the frost free date (May 10).

7 Daylily Basics Did you know that daylilies (Hemerocallis) are among the easiest perennials to grow? If you do not have a green thumb, make this the one flower you include in the garden. Although each flower lasts only one day, a typical plant will have many buds on each scape (stem) and will produce several scapes during the blooming season. The blooms themselves come in many shapes and colors. Bourbon & a Fine Cigar Daylilies thrive in locations receiving at least six hours of sun each day. A bit of shade is fine and, in fact, may be an advantage during hot summer afternoons. They will grow in most soil types, with a fairly wide ph range, but they will do best in a rich humus soil that is either neutral or slightly acidic. To prevent root rot, be certain the location has good drainage and do not overwater. Excess moisture can lead to crown rot. Leaf streak makes foliage unattractive; overhead watering will spread the disease. Daylily rust may occur but normally doesn t kill a daylily. Occasionally, daylilies may be susceptible to aphids, spider mites, thrips, slugs and snails. Make sure the daylily does not have to compete with roots of larger plants, such as shrubs or trees. Avoid planting during the hot summer, when the plant not only must become established but also has to cope with heat. After cultivating the soil, dig a 12-inch hole. Make a mound of soil in the center of the hole and spread the daylily roots over the mound. Cover the roots with soil up to but not above the crown of the plant, working the soil around and between the roots. Firm the soil and water well. Prune the foliage back to a length of 6 8 inches. Mulch well. Individual plants should be placed about 18 inches apart. Daylilies need about 1 inch of water per week, especially during summer drought and heat. Fertilize in moderation with a balanced formula ( ) at least twice a year (spring and fall). There are many, many varieties of daylily available. To understand their differences there are some terms and symbols you should learn that can be found on the plants label. Label Terms that you should know: Bloom season -indicates bloom time; EE - Extra early (6+ wks before peak) E - Early (2 4 wks before peak) EM - Early to mid-season (1 2 wks before peak) M = Peak ML = Mid to late (1 2 wks after peak) L = Late (2 4 wks after peak Ada s Bean Night (Wolff-D., 2006) Height 26in (66cm), Bloom 5in (12.5cm), Season M, Dormant, Diploid, Very Fragrant, ((Condilla Janni) Frances Joiner) VL = Very late (more than 2 4 wks after peak) Re = Will bloom AGAIN after the first bloom.

8 Height of fans and scapes. This is measured in inches. Example: A plant marked 24" 4.5" would have fans reaching 24 inches high, with blooms that are 4½ inches across. Ploidy. Modern daylilies are either diploid or tetraploid, a characteristic that refers to the number of sets of chromosomes per cell in a plant. Dip = The daylily has 22 chromosomes. Tet = The daylily has 44 chromosomes. In general, Tets are larger plants, having larger flowers. Foliage habit Dor = Dormant, the foliage dies back during winter months. Sev = Semi-evergreen, a fair amount of the foliage dies back during the winter. Ev = Evergreen, the foliage stays green all winter. Hybridizer. The name of the creator and the year in which the daylily variety was created. "Salter 96 would indicate that Elizabeth Salter had hybridized the daylily in Other symbols and data Ada s Bean Night Fra = Many daylilies have no fragrance: however some have a wonderful scent! ADA S BEAN NIGHT = Daylily name Flower forms and color patterns those details are far too numerous to list in this article. However, the basics are: single = the flower has 3 petals and 3 sepals double = more petals and sepals, w/ blooms which vary from slightly double to peony-like spider = petals and sepals are narrow throughout their length self = petals and sepals are the same color bicolor = petals and sepals are of totally different colors eye zone = a different or darker colored band on both petals and sepals where they join at the throat Try browsing to enjoy full color pictures & for practice reading the individual flower details. will also provide display gardens you may visit, by state. Don t be surprised if you become addicted to these lovely plants! For the small amount of effort expended, you will be rewarded by real beauty in your garden! Donald Wolff, local hybridizer and member of The Daylily Society of Louisville, Louisville Area Daylily Society, & The American Hemerocallis Society (AHS) has registered over 24 of his lilies. He will be a guest speaker at the Bullitt County Extension. Be sure to register with us at the office then mark your calendar for Thursday, March 15th at 6 PM to come meet Donald and discuss lily basics and hybridizing.

9 Home Invaders According to a statewide poll of Kentucky householders, 93% expressed concern over finding insects within their home. Despite their "highprofile" presence within the home, most pests encountered indoors have either flown or crawled in from outdoors. One of the best ways to limit unwanted intrusions by insects and other pests is to deny them entry -- a procedure known as pest proofing. Many pests seek refuge in homes and other buildings in response to changes in weather, such as extended periods of rain or drought, or the onset of cooler temperatures in autumn. Taking steps to block their entry before they end up inside can greatly reduce the chances of future sightings. Outlined below are six useful tips for pest proofing one's home or place of business. Steps 1-3 will also conserve energy and increase the comfort level during summer and winter. Equipment and materials mentioned can be purchased at most home improvement or hardware stores. Step One: Install door sweeps or thresholds at the base of all exterior entry doors. While lying on the floor, check for light filtering under doors. Gaps of 1/16 inch or less will permit entry of insects and spiders; 1/4 inch-wide gaps (the diameter of a pencil) are large enough for entry of mice; 1/2 inch gaps are adequate for rats. Pay particular attention to the bottom corners as this is often where rodents and insects enter. Garage doors should be fitted with a bottom seal constructed of rubber (vinyl seals poorly in cold weather). Gaps under sliding glass doors can be sealed by lining the bottom track with 1/2 to 3/4 inch-wide foam weather stripping. Step Two: Seal utility openings where pipes and wires enter the foundation and siding, e.g., around outdoor faucets, receptacles, gas meters, clothes dryer vents, and telephone/cable TV wires. These are common entry points for such pests as rodents, ants, spiders and yellow-jackets. Holes can be plugged with caulk, cement, urethane expandable foam, steel wool, copper mesh, or other suitable sealants. Step Three: Caulk cracks around windows, doors, fascia boards, etc. Use a good quality silicone or acrylic latex caulk. Although somewhat less flexible than pure silicone, latex- type caulks clean up easily with water and are paintable. Caulks that dry clear are often easier to use than pigmented caulks since they don't show mistakes. Buy a good caulking gun. Features to look for include a back-off trigger to halt the flow of caulk when desired, a built-in "slicer" for cutting the tip off of new caulking tubes, and a nail for puncturing the seal within. (Hardware stores sell guns with these features for less than $10.00.) Prior to sealing, cracks should be cleaned and any peeling caulk removed to aid adhesion. For a professional look, smooth the bead of caulk after application with a damp rag or a moistened finger.

10 Step Four: Repair gaps and tears in window and door screens. Doing so will help reduce entry of flies, gnats, mosquitoes and midges during summer, and cluster flies, lady beetles, and other overwintering pests in early fall. Certain insects, in particular leafhoppers and hackberry psyllids, are small enough to fit through standard mesh window screen. The only way to deny entry to these tiny insects is to keep windows closed during periods of adult emergence. Step Five: Install 1/4-inch wire mesh (hardware cloth) over attic, roof, and crawl space vents in order to prevent entry of birds, bats, squirrels, rodents, and other wildlife. Be sure to wear gloves when cutting and installing hardware cloth, as the wire edges are razor sharp. Invest in a chimney cap to exclude birds, squirrels, raccoons and other nuisance wildlife. Step Six: Consider applying an exterior (barrier) treatment with insecticides. While sealing is the more permanent way to exclude pests originating from outdoors, comprehensive pest-proofing is labor-intensive and sometimes impractical. For clients requiring an alternative, pest proofing can be supplemented by an exterior treatment with an insecticide. Homeowners will get the most for their efforts by applying longerlasting liquid formulations containing synthetic pyrethroids (e.g. Spectracide Triazicide, Ortho Home Defense, and Bayer Advanced Multi-Insect Killer) stocked by some hardware/lawn and garden shops. Using a compressed air or hose end sprayer, treat at the base of all exterior doors, garage and crawl space entrances, around foundation vents and utility openings, and up underneath siding. It may also be useful to treat around the outside perimeter of the foundation in a 2 to 6- foot-wide band along the ground, and 2-3 feet up the foundation wall. Clients who choose not to tackle these activities may wish to hire a professional pest control firm. Many firms are beginning to offer pest proofing as an adjunct to other services. When all else fails, a vacuum cleaner or broom is often the best response to the occasional bug that wanders in from outdoors. This time of year there are three fairly common home invaders to watch out for. The first is the brown marmorated stink bug. Brown Marmorated Stink Bug The brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB) has the characteristic shield-shaped stink bug body. The adults (with wings) are approximately 5/8 inch long with a mottled browngrey body. The next to last (4th) segment of each antenna has a white band. Edges of the abdominal segments that extend laterally from under the wings are alternatively banded with black and white. The underside of the body is white to light gray with grey or black markings, and the legs are brown with faint white bands.

11 A fall accidental invader - the BMSB can pose problems for all Kentuckians, similar to that of the multicolored Asian lady beetle. Adults are attracted to homes and structures in the fall as they move to protected overwintering sites. Large numbers may enter through cracks and crevices. These insects produce a stain and unpleasant order when mashed. They will leave protected sites in the spring to resume their life cycle. Plant damage - BMSB feeds on the sap of a wide range of plants including fruits, vegetables, ornamentals, and some field crops. Significant losses caused by the insect have been reported from other states. Management for BMSB In Homes Mechanical exclusion, before BMSB s enter a building, is preferred. Exterior applications of insecticides, may offer some minor relief from infestations where the task of completely sealing the exterior is difficult or impossible. Homeowner products containing the active ingredients deltamethrin, cyfluthrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, cypermethrin, or permethrin are options. They should be applied in the fall as the bugs begin to congregate. These insecticides are broken down by sunlight so the residual effect will decrease and may not kill the insects much beyond several days or a week. If numerous bugs are entering the living areas of the home, attempt to locate the openings where the insects gain access. Typically, stink bugs will emerge from cracks under or behind baseboards, around window and door trim, and around exhaust fans or lights in ceilings. Seal these openings with caulk or other suitable materials to prevent the insects from crawling out. Both live and dead stink bugs can be removed from interior areas with the aid of a vacuum cleaner - however, the vacuum may acquire the smell of stink bugs for a period of time. It is not advisable to use an insecticide inside after the insects have gained access to the wall voids or attic areas. The Boxelder Bug The second home invader we will discuss is the Boxelder Bug. Boxelder bugs are common insects that feed on sap from leaves, twigs, and seeds of boxelders, as well other members of the maple family. Large numbers of them can be seen on tree trunks, or branches, or sunning themselves on the south or west sides of buildings in the spring and fall. These harmless accidental invaders may be a temporary nuisance as they move into and out of sheltered overwintering sites in the fall and spring. Boxelder leaves Adult boxelder bugs are elongate, 1/2 inch long insects with

12 sucking mouthparts. They are mostly black with some red markings. There are three narrow red lines on the segment behind the head, one down the center and one on either side and a thin red inverted "V" about the middle of the back. The wingless immature or nymphal stage has a black head, antennae, and legs. The red abdomen has an orangeyellow stripe and spot down the center of the back. Boxelder bugs feed on plants during the summer. They move to sheltered areas, including nearby houses and buildings, in the fall and remain there during the winter. As you begin to see the invaders, containment strategies include, sweep or vacuum up and discard those found inside. They will not multiply nor will they infest any household articles. These insects are only a nuisance or accidental invader; however, they may leave an odor and stain when crushed. Exclusion is important in reducing numbers that get indoors. Check door sweeps and places outside the house that may allow them to get inside. If large numbers are present every year, removal of female boxelder plants should be considered because this is the major host plant for them. Other alternatives include controlling insects while they are on the boxelder plant or direct sprays of congregations of the insects on outside walls. Insecticidal soap provides a safe control alternative but it must be sprayed directly on the insects to be effective. Asian Lady Beetle The final common home invader we re going to discuss is the Asian Lady Beetle. One of several species of lady beetle, the Asian Lady Beetle (Harmonia axyridis), can be a nuisance when they fly to buildings in search of overwintering sites and end up indoors. Once inside they crawl about on windows, walls, attics, etc., often emitting a noxious odor and yellowish staining fluid before dying. Adult Asian lady beetles are oval, convex, and about 1/4-inch long. Their color can vary widely from tan to orange to red. Females often have several black spots on the wing covers, although on some beetles the spots may be indistinct or entirely absent, those with few or no spots tend to be males. Most beetles have a small, dark "M" or "W"-shaped marking on the whitish area behind the head. Individual beetles can live up to three years. At present, Asian lady beetles appear to have few natural enemies. As a defense against predators, the beetles secrete a foul smelling yellowish fluid from their leg joints when disturbed. Some mortality occurs at subfreezing temperatures, although survival is enhanced within buildings and other protected

13 locations if adequate moisture or humidity is available. Asian lady beetles generally do not injure humans and are mainly a nuisance. Unlike some household pests (e.g., fleas and cockroaches), they do not reproduce indoors -- those appearing in late winter/early spring are the same individuals that entered the previous fall. Lady beetles do not attack wood, food or clothing. Nonetheless, some householders detest finding any insects indoors, and hygienic establishments such as hospitals have zero tolerance for contaminants of any kind. Besides being a nuisance, the beetles emit an acrid odor and can stain surfaces with their yellowish secretions when disturbed (volatile compounds used in defense against bird and other vertebrate predators). Although Asian lady beetles do not transmit diseases per se, recent studies suggest that infestations can cause allergies in some individuals, ranging from eye irritation to asthma. People should avoid touching their eyes after handling the beetles, and should consult a physician if they suspect they are having an allergic reaction. When large numbers of beetles are flying in the fall, they often land on clothing and occasionally will bite or 'pinch' if in contact with skin. In nature, lady beetles eat other insects and have chewing mouthparts. The bite feels like a pinprick and is seldom serious. People's reaction to lady beetles varies widely from tolerance to revulsion. Once the beetles are indoors, the easiest way to remove them is with a vacuum cleaner. If you later wish to release the beetles outdoors, place a handkerchief between the vacuum hose and the dust collection bag to act as a trap. A broom can also be used, but is more likely to result in staining when beetles emit their yellowish defensive secretion. Sealing cracks and openings is the most permanent way of preventing lady beetles from entering buildings. The time to do this is in late spring or summer, before the adults begin

14 flying to buildings in search of overwintering sites. Unfortunately, there is no "quick fix" or easy answer to annual lady beetle invasions. Vacuuming, pest proofing and properly timed exterior insecticide treatments can provide relief but will not prevent entry of every single beetle. Insecticides applied indoors for lady beetles tend to be ineffective and may stain or leave unwanted residues on walls, countertops and other surfaces. A vacuum is more sanitary and effective. Attempting to kill beetles hibernating in wall cavities and other protected locations is seldom effective. A better approach is to take preventive measures to reduce beetle entry in subsequent years. While sealing cracks and openings is a more permanent way to limit beetle entry, the approach is time-consuming and sometimes impractical. There can be countless cracks associated with eaves, siding, vents, etc. where insects can enter. On multi-story buildings, sealing becomes even more difficult. If lady beetles are a perennial problem, owners may want to hire a professional pest control firm. Many companies apply insecticides to building exteriors in the fall, which helps prevent pest entry. Fast-acting residual insecticides can be sprayed in a targeted band around windows, doors, eaves, soffits, attic vents, and other likely points of entry. Some of the more effective insecticides used by professionals include Demand (lambda cyhalothrin), Suspend (deltamethrin), Talstar (bifenthrin) and Tempo (cyfluthrin). Effective over-the-counter versions of these products include Spectracide Triazicide, Bayer Advanced Powerforce Multi-Insect Killer, and Ortho Home Defense Max. Purchasing these products in concentrated (dilutable) form will allow larger volumes of material to be applied with a pump-up or hose-end sprayer. To be effective, barrier treatments should be applied before the beetles enter buildings to overwinter. In Kentucky, the proper timing for such treatments is typically late-september to early October although this will vary with seasonal conditions. During late winter or early spring, barrier treatments are ineffective since the beetles gained entry the previous autumn. Learn more about insects in and around the home at our upcoming class Tuesday the 30th at 6pm. Additionally, more information can be found at the University of Kentucky Entomology page at

15 Alternative Master Gardener Program Prior to Program: Interview & one time Class Fee of $60.00 is Required Prior to Completion: Background check, Required classes, and Certification Test Date Time Class 1/12/ pm Introduction & Botany 1/24/ pm Soils & Composting 1/25/18 6pm Introduction to MG Program 2/1/18 6pm Botany 2/7/ pm Indoor Plants & Landscape Design 2/15/18 6pm Soils & Composting 2/21/ pm Tree Fruits & Small Fruit 3/7/ pm Insects & Vertebrate Pests 3/20/18 6pm Tree Fruits 3/28/ pm Pesticides & Plant Pathology 4/4/ pm Plant Propagation & LAB 4/12/18 6pm Vegetables 4/18/ pm Vegetables & Organic Gardening 5/4/18 6pm Organic Gardening 5/15/ pm Turf & Weeds Pre-registration of classes is required. All classes are subject to cancellation based on participation. Call or come to our office for a complete class schedule Bullitt County Lorilee George Horticulture Agent 384 Halls Lane, Shepherdsville KY For details call

16 Check out Bullitt County Horticulture on Facebook to keep up with upcoming classes, events, and get answers to your questions. Check out photos of past events. -Lorilee George Bullitt County Cooperative Extension Service 384 Halls Ln. Shepherdsville, KY RETURN SERVICE REQUESTED