Anyone can grow vegetables

Transcription

1 Simple steps to creating an organic edible garden This practical, well-illustrated guide contains everything you need to know to grow your own food. By holding true to some well-tested design principles and going back to the old ways of saving seeds you need a large piece of land nor huge budget to create your own edible paradise. The book includes information on: Garden basics Edible garden design and sample plans Companion planting Crop rotation Extreme climates Containers A to Z of vegetables Herbs for cooks Organic garden management Anyone can grow vegetables With additional information on storing and preserving your excess crop, and Quick tip guides for everything from design to planting, you will see that really anyone can grow vegetables. About the author Born in North Wales and having travelled around the world for many years, experienced garden writer and columnist, Diana Anthony now lives and gardens in Melbourne, Australia. She has many other publications to her name. (This edition has been adapted specifically for South African conditions.) METZ PRESS w w w.met zpress.co.z a Anyone can grow vegetables, Diana Anthony ISBN pages, fully illustrated, flexi binding Publication date: June 2013 RRP: R220 Diana Anthony Enigeen kan groente kweek ISBN Also available in Afrikaans as Enigeen kan groente kweek. BLAD ACGVeg cover.indd /03/11 6:49 AM

2 Contents Introduction 6 Why plant an edible garden? 6 Chapter 1: Elements of the edible garden 8 Choosing and assessing your site 8 Ground plans and design 11 Soil conditioning and fertility 12 Watering and irrigation 17 Chapter 2: Designing an ornamental edible garden 20 Choosing the site 20 Choosing the ground plan 28 Laying out the ground plan 34 Constructing the framework 35 Vertical accents and ornamental structures 39 Enclosing the edible garden 44 Chapter 4: Growing edibles in climatic extremes 78 Growing edibles in hot dry conditions 78 Growing edibles in colder climates 81 Chapter 6: Growing vegetables 90 Storing crops 90 Allium or onion family 94 Beetroot family 96 Sunflower family 98 Cabbage or mustard family 100 Marrow or cucurbit family 104 Chapter 3: Planting an edible garden 52 A visually pleasing vegetable garden 52 Plan your planting 55 Choosing the right plants 62 Propagation 67 Chapter 5: Growing edibles in containers 84 Types of containers 84 Potting mediums 87 Chapter 7: Growing herbs 118 Herbal harvest 118 Storing herbs 118 Separate herb gardens 121 Herbs for cooks 123 Bean family 106 Potato family 108 Carrot or parsley family 112 Other 115 Chapter 8: Organic management 128 Balancing idealism with realism 128 Basic principles 130 Continuity of produce and catch crops 131 Compost and other fertilisers 132 Insects and biological control 137

3 Dimensions Bricks and most paving slabs come in standard sizes. This will affect the dimensions of your pathways. Decide which medium you prefer, and in what pattern, then check sizes and required spacing to arrive at the final width. If you are going to be laying bricks or pavers yourself, invest in a pair of padded strap-on kneepads. I laid pathways in my edible garden involving some 2000 bricks and even with deluxe pads had, in the end, to restrict myself to laying bricks per day! LAYING A BRICK PATHWAY Once the outer framework of your brick path is firmly in place, put down approximately 7 cm of hardcore, compact this by rolling and stamping, then a layer of sand or lean mix. Lay the bricks or slabs on top in the desired pattern, using a spirit level to check that they are level, then fill the gaps with dry lean mix, brushing it firmly into all the cracks. Brick patterns Bricks can be laid flat or on edge, in straight rows or various patterns. Since a standard brick is half as wide as it is long, there are a number of easy patterns involving blocks of two or three bricks. These are known as basketweave, and allow an easy calculation of widths. One of the most elegant patterns is herringbone, but it is more difficult to lay since it involves skilful cutting to fill in the small triangles at the edges LEFT: Flanked by borders of fruit and vegetables, black and white pebbles laid in swirling designs and set into a solid base create an intriguing and inviting pathway. 38 DESIGNING AN ORNAMENTAL EDIBLE GARDEN

4 LAYING PATHWAYS OF SHINGLE, BARK, SCORIA, PEBBLES, GRAVEL If you choose one of these softer walking mediums, follow the construction processes for solid edgings, and when the pathway is dug out and levelled, remove all perennial weeds. Lay sheets of heavy-duty polythene to prevent regrowth and fill with the desired medium. Aromatic pathways Herbs such as creeping thyme or chamomile, which release their pungent perfumes when walked on, are so delightful it's worth having them, even if you have to hand-weed them occasionally. They don't require mowing, but need solid edgings to prevent them creeping into beds. Raised beds Problems common to many vegetable gardens include impoverished soil and poor drainage, but these can be easily overcome by creating raised beds. The beds are filled with compost and manureenriched soil. The height of the beds and the loose structure of the conditioned soil promote free drainage and healthy plant growth. Edging mediums for raised beds can include old railway sleepers, round poles, breeze blocks or lengths of durable timber. The size, height and shape of the beds depends upon individual requirements. For more on raised beds see page 14. Vertical accents and ornamental structures In times past, the utilitarian vegetable plot tended to be basic, monotonous and horizontal, with all plantings laid out in rigid rows. Modern vegetable gardeners, however, have a delightful choice of ornamental structures and plant material at their disposal so that a happy balance between simplicity and variety is easily achieved. VERTICAL ACCENTS AND ORNAMENTAL STRUCTURES 39

5 Fruit trees as espaliers and cordons Fruit trees are traditionally grown on frames, fences or walls in the edible garden as espaliers or cordons. They create garden rooms, dividers or green walls and provide maximum crops in minimum space. The cordon, or espalier, is a tree that is trained to grow flat against a fence or wall from a single stem. Suitable trees include apple, pear, plum, nectarine and orange, as well as vines. CORDONS The term cordon refers to the main trunk of a tree from which the head has been removed and either one or two lateral branches allowed to grow horizontally beneath. A single cordon allows one branch to grow sideways and a double cordon allows two lateral branches to grow horizontally off the main trunk. Because the head is cut out of the tree when it is around 40 cm tall, the cordon specimen remains low in height. Although the cordon, like the espalier, is trained to grow flat against a wall or frame, because of its modest height it can remain free-standing. There is a certain apprehension about training fruit trees as cordons and espaliers, but it is not difficult. All that is required is structural support and a well-fed, well-drained piece of soil in a sunny, sheltered position. For the tiny-space potager the single and double cordons are most suitable and simple for the beginner to manage. ESPALIER To espalier a tree, once it has been allowed to grow to the desired height, the head is removed and the laterals growing out of the main trunk are trained to grow horizontally along a wire frame, fence or wall. An ornamental form is the fan shape where the main stem of the tree is allowed to grow to the desired height and the laterals trained to grow upwards and outwards against a fan-shaped frame. HOW TO ESPALIER, OR CORDON, FRUIT TREES Drive metal posts of about 3 m long, 65 cm into the ground at regular intervals to fill the space you want to use, but no closer that 45 cm apart. This means that you can grow an interesting variety of fruit along a wall only 6 m long. Stretch a wire from one post to the other at a level 45 cm above the ground. Stretch two more pieces of wire above the first wire at a distance of approximately 65 cm from each other. Choose a young fruit tree to create a cordon. Cut back to about 25 cm from the ground after planting. Several shoots will sprout from the stem remove all but one, which is grown on to form a rod or single cordon. To grow a double cordon, leave one shoot either side of the main stem. 50 DESIGNING AN ORNAMENTAL EDIBLE GARDEN

6 Prune the lateral or the laterals of the single and double cordon in mid summer by cutting them back to about 15 cm from the main stem. In winter, prune these laterals again to at least three buds. The leader should not be pruned in winter, except to remove the tip to encourage the development of side shoots. A popular espalier form is the dwarf bush pyramid. This consists of a centre stem with a number of branches extending outward. The bottom branches are usually about 45 cm long, and each succeeding branch about 5 cm shorter up to the top branches, which will end up as around 15 cm in length. The result will be a dwarf, pyramid-shaped tree. All side shoots are pruned in the same way as the other cordons. No posts or wires are needed as the tree, although clipped into a neat geometric shape, will still be bushy enough to stand alone. Trees are planted about 1 m apart so that when fully grown the basal branches of each tree will just touch that of its neighbour. When growing cordons and espaliers, strong supports and shelter from strong winds and hard frosts are essential. Like ordinary fruit bushes and trees, cordons and espaliers are subject to the usual diseases, and winter and summer spraying may be necessary (see pages ). You will find that this system is one of the best ways to grow fruit since the method requires minimal space and makes it easy to prune, pick and spray the crops. ENCLOSING THE EDIBLE GARDEN 51

7 Quick reference guides to planting design The following summary of ideas for planting design is by no means exhaustive. Each gardener will have ideas of his or her own, and the plants suggested will perform according to geographical locations and climatic conditions. EDGERS FOR OUTLINING BEDS Edgers and dividers may be employed in a semi-permanent capacity as annual crops and flowers, or in a permanent capacity as perennial shrubs, herbs, hedges, espaliered fru compliment its and vines, dwarf trees or soft-fruit bushes. ANNUALS Low edgers Dwarf red basils, beetroot, dwarf marigolds, nasturtiums, ornamental kales, coloured lettuce, oriental brassicas, dwarf annual dahlias and zinnias, strawberries. PERENNIALS ANNUALS PERENNIALS ANNUALS PERENNIALS Cottage pinks, catmint, chives, bush thymes and sages, violas, violets, dwarf feverfew, lady s mantle (Alchemilla mollis), dwarf lavenders. Medium-height edgers Taller varieties of basil, bush beans, beetroot, red cabbage, bedding dahlias and zinnias, calendula, summer savory (Satureja hortensis), celery, Swiss chard. Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), lavenders, box, honeysuckle (Lonicera nitida), sages, winter savory (Satureja montana), rosemary and artemisias. Tall edgers Broccoli, cauliflower, cosmos, sunflowers, amaranths, sweetcorn, taller marigolds, frames and trellises of sweet peas, peas and beans. Dahlias, dwarf hebes, French lavender (Lavandula dentata), rosemary, rue, Sedum spectabile and ancient rugosa roses with sensuously scented flowers and highly ornamental hips; soft-fruit bushes, espaliered fruit, standard roses, rosemary, lavender or bay, and topiary specimens. VERTICAL ACCENTS For overall balance, the edible garden requires plant groupings of varying heights. A selection of herbs, vegetables and flowers to add vertical accent include those needing support, and others that don t. NEEDING SUPPORT WITHOUT SUPPORT Runner beans, peas, cucurbits on trellises, tomatoes, espaliered or cordon fruit trees, climbing nasturtiums and sweet peas, grape and passion-fruit vines, honeysuckle, climbing roses and sunflowers. Angelica, artichokes, asparagus, bay laurel, sweetcorn, delphiniums, brassicas, canna lilies, clary sage (Salvia sclarea), larkspur, green and bronze fennel, hollyhocks, horseradish, lemon verbena, Leonotis leonurus, standard roses, fruit bushes and topiary specimens, rosemary, rhubarb, ornamental tobaccos (Nicotiana spp.), verbascums and borage. 60 PLANTING AN EDIBLE GARDEN

8 PLANTS FOR ARCHITECTURAL ACCENTS Artichokes, broccoli, cauliflowers, canna lilies, cardoons, sweetcorn, cucurbits trained to climb, bronze fennel, angelica, ornamental kales, sweet and hot peppers, rhubarb, rue, artemisias, Sedum spectabile, sunflowers, beefsteak tomato cultivars, borage. Bushy or clump-forming hedging and evergreen plants Box (Buxus sempervirens), honeysuckle (Lonicera nitida), curry plant (Helichrysum), dwarf hebes, bay laurel, hyssop, lavenders, rosemary, rue, winter savory, bush thymes and sages, santolina. Foliage favourites FEATHERY Asparagus, carrots, dill, cumin and fennel. CURLY Curly endive, parsley and kale. Self-sowers Borage, chervil, cosmos, evening primrose, fennel, feverfew, lettuces, marigolds, nasturtiums, Californian poppies, mustards, nicotiana, oregano, phacelia, violas, catmint, lady s mantle (Alchemilla mollis). Fast-fillers Quick to mature plants include oriental brassicas, dwarf beans, feverfew, chervil, cosmos, land cress, mustard, phacelia, salad stuffs and bedding plants such as annual marigolds, dahlias and zinnias. PALETTE OF VEGETABLE, FLOWER & HERB COLOURS RED, PURPLE OR VIOLET-BLUE PINK TONES YELLOW & GOLD TONES SILVER & WHITE Amaranths, aubergines, purple basils, red Brussels sprouts, broccoli, red cabbages, kales, kohlrabi, lettuces, bronze mustard, red orache, purple-leaf sage, sweet peppers and chillies, tomatoes, beetroot, purple-podded climbing beans, bedding dahlias with purple-black foliage, zinnias, roses and nasturtiums, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, gooseberries, artichoke and cardoon flowers, rainbow beet, runner beans, borage, lavender, purple-flowered peas, catmint, phacelia and chicory flowers. True pink is an unusual colour amongst edible plants a matter for regret since it is an excellent foil to the rich greens of vegetable foliage. Those offering pink hues might include roses, ornamental kales, pink, cream and green-splashed tricolour sage, the flowers of common marjoram, oregano and thyme species, Chinese artichokes, some dwarf beans, the seed globes of leeks (pale pink), and flowers such as dahlias and zinnias. Yellow-leafed varieties of lemon balm, oregano, celery, rainbow beet and sage; the flowers and fruit of butter beans, peppers, chillies, squash, pumpkins, courgettes/ zucchini and other cucurbits, some tomatoes; the flowers of brassicas, sunflowers, zinnias, bedding dahlias, nasturtiums and marigolds. Artemisias, artichokes, cardoons, curry plant, lavenders, santolina, cauliflowers, white aubergines, Chinese chives, white kohlrabi, turnips, leeks and radish. Broad beans provide silver-green foliage and black and white flowers; many bean and pea cultivars have silvery foliage and offer white flowers, as do potatoes and white lavender. Onions, garlic, and chives also provide silver-green foliage. PLAN YOUR PLANTING 61

9 Potato family (Solenaceae) Peppers, capsicum and chilli peppers Capsicum spp. Originating from Mexico and Central America, capsicum and chilli peppers are warm-season crops which grow well in both containers and small gardens. Versatile decorative plants bearing abundant fruit, they come in multiple colours, sizes and shapes. Growing: Peppers require compost and manure-enriched soil and a warm, sheltered position in full sun. They also require a long growing season. In colder zones sow seeds indoors in winter (soak overnight before sowing). Plant seedlings out when soil warms up and risk of frosts has passed. Capsicum require regular controlled watering. Sudden deluges will cause blossom end rot and the skin of mature fruit to split. When fruit is forming, apply liquid fertiliser fortnightly to promote large healthy crops. Allow 60 cm between bushes. Pests and diseases: Shield bugs, aphids. Harvesting: For continuous cropping, harvest fruit when ripe usually when fully coloured. Peppers have brittle stalks so cut fruit rather than pulling from stalks. Staking will prevent the weight of the fruit snapping branches. To save late-maturing fruit, pull whole plant before first frosts and hang indoors for peppers to ripen. Chilli peppers can be harvested from earliest ripening right through until they ve dried and shrivelled on the plant. Storage: Freeze, bottle or pickle sweet peppers in oil and vinegar. Chilli peppers are best dried for storage. Hang in bunches or store in trays. Gourmet tips: Sweet peppers have multiple culinary uses in salads and cooked dishes, are delicious barbecued or stuffed and roasted. Experiment with fillings minced meats, or with vegetables and cheeses for a vegetarian meal. 108 GROWING VEGETABLES

10 Sweet potato Ipomoea batatas Sweet potato tubers grow from a vine and require light, sandy or well-drained soil and temperate to warmer climates. Growing: Plants are sold in spring but sweet potatoes may also be propagated by burying mature tubers in warm, damp soil. When shoots form, divide tubers into pieces with shoots attached and replant. During growth, prevent the vine stems from rooting down and forming new plants this diminishes the crop from the parent plant. Pests and diseases: Few. Harvesting: Harvest sweet potatoes from late summer when the foliage has yellowed. Immature tubers will exude a milky sap if pierced. Lift tubers and sun-dry for several days. Storage: Dry-store in damp sand in a cool, well-ventilated place. Gourmet tips: The versatile sweet potato can be roasted, baked, mashed, stir-fried, sautéed or steamed and is excellent in casseroles and soups. Try sweet potato chips slice thinly and fry until crisp. Like pumpkin, the vegetable can also be used to make desserts, pies and cakes. Tomato Lycopersicon esculentum Global favourites, tomatoes come in multiple sizes, shapes, colours and heights. A summer crop, they need a warm, sheltered position in full sun and a moist, free-draining, well-composted, limefree soil. Growing: They require regular controlled watering throughout the growing season sudden deluges will cause blossom end rot and the skin of mature fruit to split. Both fruit and foliage should be kept dry during watering and plants should be well-spaced, about 60 cm, to increase ventilation and discourage fungal diseases. Mulching with grass clippings (keep away from stems) or compost maintains a cool moist root run, which encourages heavy cropping. Taller varieties require staking for wind protection and to help the plant support the weight of fruit. Plant seedlings out in mid- POTATO FAMILY (SOLENACEAE) 109

11 Marjoram and oregano Origanum marjorana and Oregano vulgare Closely related herbs, oregano and marjoram are drought-hardy and require rich soil in full sun. Growing: Sow seeds indoors in spring and transplant into soil in summer. Gourmet tip: Both herbs enhance all Mediterranean and tomatobased dishes. Parsley Petroselinum crispum Parsley is rich in vitamins and minerals. The herb does best in part sun/part shade in moist, fertile soil. There is also a flatleafed variety Petroselinum crispum neapolitanum said to have a more robust flavour. Growing: Sow seeds in containers or directly into prepared soil in spring and into autumn. Soak seeds overnight before sowing to speed germination. Parsley requires regular watering in hot weather to prevent premature seeding. Frost-tolerant. Gourmet tip: A main ingredient in bouquet garni, parsley is also widely used in salads, sauces and as a garnish. Chopped parsley together with garlic, lemon juice and rind and olive oil makes a taste-bud tingling gremolata. Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis Drought-tolerant and happy in well-drained, stony or sandy soils, rosemary requires a warm position in full sun. Growing: The herb is propagated from semi-hardwood cuttings taken in summer. In temperate areas, plant cuttings direct into fine, sandy soil or, in cooler areas, in pots of light mix for planting out in mid-spring. Pinch out tips of new growth regularly or trim plant lightly to maintain compact, bushy growth. Frost-hardy. Gourmet tip: It is said that roast lamb without rosemary is a culinary sin! The herb is also excellent for seasoning roast vegetables. Try brushing large open mushroom cups with olive oil and top with finely chopped rosemary and crushed garlic. Bake or grill until juices are running, top with crumbled feta cheese and reheat until cheese just starts to melt. 126 GROWING HERBS

12 Sage Salvia officinalis An evergreen perennial, sage requires full sun and a welldrained soil. Growing: Sow seed 5 mm deep in pots in spring and transplant into the soil in early summer. Propagate new plants from tip cuttings taken during the warmer months. Frost-hardy. Gourmet tip: A strongly flavoured herb, sage is delicious in stuffings for meat dishes or in a burnt butter sauce over homemade butternut ravioli. Thyme Thymus vulgaris Hardy, drought-tolerant plants, thyme species thrive in welldrained soil in full sun. Growing: The herb is propagated from seed or from semihardwood cuttings taken after flowering. Rooted cuttings taken in summer can be planted out in autumn or over-wintered in pots for planting out in spring. Mostly frost-hardy. Gourmet tip: Thyme has a strong, delightful flavour that enhances soups, stews and casseroles. HERBS FOR COOKS 127

13 DIY worm farm You can make a worm farm with a large plastic storage bin and tap. Simply drill a hole along the side of the bin, as far down as possible and connect the tap. They usually come with washers to prevent unnecessary leaking. Next drill three to four ventilation holes on each side of the bin, about two thirds of the way up. Place the bin on a layer or two of bricks. Fill the bottom of the bin with medium-sized pebbles or rocks followed by a layer of hessian for easy drainage. Next comes the material that will be part of the composting process. Fist a layer of garden soil, followed by a layer of torn newspapers. Be sure to wet this somewhat it should have the consistency of a rung-out sponge. Follow this with your kitchen waste and worms and give it all a good, but gentle mix. From here simply top up with kitchen scraps daily. Place a bottle under the tap to catch that lovely liquid fertiliser. Green manures In a small garden it may be difficult to find room for these crops but they mature quickly and can be planted in any empty bed after a crop has been harvested. Green manure crops add organic materials and nitrogen to the soil. Plants include mustard, oats, alfalfa, lupin, barley, beans and peas. Plant the crops in autumn and dig in as soon as flowering begins. If left too long they ll be difficult to dig in. Home-made liquid manure Liquid manures are easily made from animal manures, seaweed, herbs and plants. Soak a cloth bag or sack containing animal (such as cow, horse or chicken) manure or plants in a large bucket or drum and leave for two days. Dilute the concentration until it resembles weak tea and pour around plants and seedlings. 136 ORGANIC MANAGEMENT