HORTICULTURE NEWSLETTER JULY 2017

Transcription

1 HORTICULTURE NEWSLETTER JULY 2017 Bullitt County IN THIS ISSUE On the cover Class Schedule Page 1-2 Part1 Herbaceous Series Page Scholarship Winner Page 4-6 Succulents and Upcoming Succulent class Page 7 Turf Renovation Page 8-9 Fall Weed Care Page 10 UK s Turfgrass Science Page House Plants All classes offered by the Horticulture Program require preregistration. Call , to RSVP so you are ensured handouts, notice of reschedule or cancellation. 384 Halls Ln. Shepherdsville, KY (502) Fax: (502) Bullitt County Master Gardeners Meet on the 1st Tuesday of Each Month August 1st meeting will be at 6pm Mark your calendar and REGISTER for IF YOU DO NOT WISH TO RECEIVE THIS NEWSLETTER, PLEASE CALL ( ) To Have Your Name Removed. Lorilee George Lorilee George Bullitt County Extension Agent for Horticulture

2 HERBACEOUS - Part 1 An Introduction to Herbs Most herbs are easy to grow. Many are droughttolerant, do not need very fertile soil and are naturally resistant to insects and diseases. The word herb has many definitions, but practically speaking, herbs are plants that are grown for Growing Herbs their medicinal, aromatic and/or seasoning uses. Most herbs are herbaceous (soft tissued) annuals or perennials. Some, such as lavender and rosemary, are small shrubs. Many common herbs are from the Mediterranean region. They are adapted to an area with lots of sun, well-drained, stony soil and dry summers. In Kentucky, they can have difficulty in heavy soils and the ever-present humidity. It is helpful to create raised beds for these plants to improve soil drainage, select cultivars that are tolerant of our climate and use a mulch of stone or gravel to help prevent rots. Almost all herbs grow best in an area that is sunny for at least six hours each day. The fragrant oils, which account for herb flavors, are produced in the greatest quantity when plants receive plenty of sun. A few herbs-including angelica, parsley and mint-prefer partial shade or shade. The soil should have a ph of 6 to 7 and contain a moderate amount of organic matter. Add 2 to 3 inches of fine pine bark, poultry grit or coarse compost worked in to 8 to 12 inches deep to improve the drainage in clay soils. Add 2 to 3 inches of fine pine bark, compost or leaf mold to sandy soils to improve their moisture retention. Soil for growing herbs should be well-drained, raised beds further improve drainage. Very few herbs will grow in wet soils, although a few such as mints and lemon-grass thrive in moist soil. It is best to base fertilizer and lime applications on the results of a soil test. Most herbs do not need a highly fertile soil. Very fertile soils tend to produce lush leaves that lack flavor. Annual herbs are primarily grown from seeds. Several such as basil, coriander (cilantro) and dill may be directly sown. Seeds of some cold-hardy herbs such as parsley may be sown in the fall. Tender annuals such as basil are sown after all danger of frost is past in the spring. Most perennial herbs are transplanted from small pots. Plant perennial herbs in the fall if possible so that the plants have time to get well established before summer. Perennials can also be planted in early spring. Pinch out the tips of new plants to force them to branch and become full. Plant aggressively spreading herbs such as the mints in a separate area to prevent them from taking over the garden. Although many herbs are drought-tolerant, moisture is needed to maintain active growth. Water herbs thoroughly and then allow the soil to dry out somewhat before watering again. Plants should be watered early enough in the day that leaves can dry before nightfall. Continued on next page

3 Some herbs, particularly most annual herbs, need additional soil moisture for best growth. Mulch with organic materials such as compost or composted bark to maintain even soil temperatures, discourage weeds, and retain soil moisture. Herbs with gray leaves, or those that are sensitive to excessive moisture and humidity, can benefit from a 1- to 2-inch mulch of pea gravel or other stones. Some herbs may be grown in containers and brought inside in winter to provide fresh herbs all year. Bush basil, sage, winter savory, parsley, chives and varieties of oregano and thyme are some of the best herbs for growing in containers. Herbs grown inside will need plenty of sunlight from a south or west facing window. Prune herbs regularly to promote vigorous, well shaped, sturdy growth. If you harvest herbs regularly, this should keep your plants pruned. Problems oils are at their peak. Harvest early in the morning, after the dew dries, but before the heat of the day. Herbs grown for their foliage should be harvested before they flower. Harvest herbs grown for seeds as the seed pods change in color from green to brown to gray but before they shatter. Collect herb flowers just before full flower. Harvest herb roots in the fall after the foliage fades. Drying is the traditional method of herb preservation. Freezing is also an excellent method to preserve the flavor of certain herbs such as basil that lose flavor when dried. Rinse herbs, then chop coarsely and place in water-filled ice cube trays and freeze. The fragrance oils in many herbs repel most insects. However, aphids and spider mites can be a problem. Aphids are common in crowded conditions with rapidly growing, succulent plants. Spider mites thrive in dry conditions and can be discouraged by spraying the plants with a strong stream of plain water regularly during periods of drought. The best defenses against pests on herbs are proper growing conditions, good sanitation, removal of weak or infested growth, and regular pruning. Harvest & Storage More information to come on herbs in the September newsletter. Herbs should be harvested when the fragrance

4 2017 Master Gardener Scholarship Winner Mandy Rogers: BIO Perfect High School Attendance Honor Roll 3 years & National Honors Society Student Congress, FFA Future Business Leaders of America Rainforest Biodiversity study Coral Reef Biodiversity study 50 hours volunteer work Master Gardeners David Puckett & Barb Moore presenting the 2017 Horticulture Scholarship to BEHS winner Mandy Rogers. FUTURE GOALS Environmental Science Degree at EKU Best Wishes Mandy, from all the Master Gardeners, for a BRIGHT Future! We look forward to watching your career.

5 Succulent Roofing: a Green Way to Roof By Dave Puckett, Bullitt County Master Gardener Why succulents? Succulent (Latin: succos = juice, sap) plants from more than 60 families and 300 genera have evolved special water-storage tissues in thickened or swollen leaves, stems or roots as an adaptation to arid environments. By making the most of scarce available moisture, succulents can survive in habitats that are far too dry for most other plants. Sedum Sunsparkler Blue Stem Succulents: Fleshy stems contain water storage cells overlaid by photosynthetic tissue. Leaves are almost or entirely absent, reducing surface area to prevent evaporative loss of water. Leaf Succulents: Leaves are almost entirely composed of water storage cells covered by a thin layer of photosynthetic tissue. Usually referred to as Sedum or Stonecrop. Prickly Pear Cactus Root Succulents: Swollen fleshy roots store water underground away from the heat of the sun and hungry animals. Stems and leaves are often deciduous and shed during prolonged dry seasons. Living Roofs: A good bit of information is becoming available on the how-to s and why s of creating green or living roofs. Oddly enough, this is not a breaking news story. I suspect the attractiveness of the idea dates back at least to the day the Babylonian landscape gardeners decided that hanging plants from the mudbrick roofs might be a way to go. However, for gardens to survive Kentucky s heat and drought of summer and winter s unpredictable conditions, along with the thin, low -nutrient soil layer afforded by a rooftop home, they would have to be filled with plants with super-powers! They must be perennial, selfseeding, drought-tolerant, low-growing, densely planted, fire-resistant, and able to stand up to heat, cold and wind. Succulents, especially stonecrops (sedums) and sempervivums (hensand-chicks) are natural choices. Succulents have built-in drought survival skills, ability to absorb and retain large quantities of water, and low maintenance needs. Continued on next page

6 Some Possible Succulent Choices : Sedums (album, kamtschaticum, refluxum Blue Spruce, rupestre Angelina, sexangulare, spurium Daragon s Blood ) all have a growth height of 4 to 6, bloom in spring and summer, can take full sun, and provide color interest in winter. Elfin creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum) and variegated lemon thyme (T. citriodorus Variegatus ) with succulents. Creeping Thymes can be added to the succulents to provide added fragrance as well as textures (red flowering, elfin, wooly, alba, pink chintz, lemon, oregano, spicy orange, are all low growing and fragrant.) Ice plant (Delospermum sp.) Hens-and-chicks (Sempervivum sp.) are necessary. Roofs with as much as 40% slope can support plants with care given to engineering and soil retention. Sloping roofs have the added advantage of being able to be seen from ground level. Getting started : Regardless of the structure you are planning to roof, one overriding construction tip needs to be kept in mind use layers! The first layer applied should protect the host roof. It must be water tight. Sheet metal, vinyl sheets, or other materials might serve this purpose. Next, provide a layer to control drainage and to prevent water from standing on the roof. A thin layer of lightweight non-porous material will work. Where can roof gardens be built? Living succulent roofs may be built on everything from fairy houses and birdhouses to garden sheds; from garages to homes and apartment buildings. Flat to gently sloping roofs Put a breathable layer between drainage layer and soil to keeps the soil from blocking drainage. Finally, add growing medium of welldraining soil and your choice of plants. (Pre-planted mats of hardy succulent mixes are available at many of the big box stores.) You can also purchase trays and sheets made specifically for rooftop planting. Remember to plant densely to promote water retention and discourage growth of unwanted weeds. Continued on next page

7 Advantages of creating succulent roofs: Provide additional garden space for small gardens by regaining lost green space at the roof level. Help lower air pollution by absorbing carbon dioxide and filtering other air pollution particles. Work well in hot climates especially in mostly -sun to full-sun placements. Attract insects. Insect pollinators are attracted to many cultivars of sedum. These insects provide nourishment for many birds, bats, and other insect eaters. Protect the structure underneath. Provide greater heating and cooling for the host structure, depending upon the season. Reduce heat on succulent roofs by cooling the air through natural processes, according to the Environmental Protection Agency, the surface of a living roof on a hot summer s day can be as much as 90 degrees Fahrenheit cooler than the surface of a traditional roof. Take garden beauty to a higher level, Literally! Would you like to learn more about indoor and outdoor succulent gardening? Make plans to attend the Gardener s Toolbox class Succulents and Other Low Water Plants at 6:00pm on Thursday, July 13, 2017 at the Bullitt County Cooperative Extension office. The class will be taught by Dave Puckett and Barb Moore. Some free Succulent plants will be provided. Come Grow with us!

8 Turf Renovation Is your lawn a stand of dense, green lush grass that you are proud to wiggle bare toes in or do you find yourself comparing your turf to a neighbor? Ask yourself the following questions to determine if your lawn needs to be renovated: Does less than 50 percent of the lawn contain the desired turf? Is the soil compacted? Is there a need to replace existing grass with an improved variety more tolerant to pests, heat, and drought? Are weeds such as Bermuda grass or quack grass predominant and need reduction? Do you want to reduce thatch and reseed with a non-thatch forming grass? Do you need to improve a turf damaged by heavy traffic, white grubs, diseases, drought, etc.? Usually one of two methods is used to reestablish a lawn: conventional or renovation. The conventional method involves killing existing vegetation, tilling the soil, and replanting. The advantages of conventional tillage include more complete control of weeds and undesirable grass, a smoother soil surface, and the opportunity to improve the existing soil by adding organic matter and sand. Renovation involves replanting without completely tilling the soil and often without destroying all existing vegetation. Before you decide there may be too much work involved, also consider the ADVANTAGES of turf renovation. The advantages of renovation include: Low erosion risk Little or no post-establishment repair Few mud or dust problems Short period of turf discoloration Less equipment required, reducing costs No change to original grade Figure 1. Drought-stressed Kentucky bluegrass (left) and tall fescue (right) lawns. Drought tolerance is only one of the benefits of conversion to tall fescue. Little damage to root systems of older trees and shrubs Join us on August 25th, at 6 pm to learn more about Turf Care and have any additional questions you may have answered.

9 Fall Weed Care Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea Schreb.) is the most important cool-season grass in Kentucky, occupying approximately 5.5 million acres in the state. It is a versatile plant used for animal feed, lawns and turf, and conservation purposes (grass waterways, rights-of-way, etc.). Tall fescue is a deep-rooted, long-lived bunchgrass with short rhizomes (underground stems). It is widely adapted and grows well on the state s many and varied soil types. Like other cool-season grasses, tall fescue produces the majority of its total growth during the first third of the growing season. Growth is slowed during July and August, followed by increased production in autumn. Although the major share of fescue s total production normally occurs during the spring, autumn growth can be significant with adequate moisture and proper applications of nitrogen (N). To keep it looking its best, weeds should be controlled through an integrated approach. This involves knowledge of weed characteristics and the cultural requirements of the turf. Disadvantages of Weeds The main reason homeowners want to rid their lawn of weeds is that they are aesthetically disruptive. In other words, weeds are ugly and interrupt an otherwise uniform appearing lawn. Weeds are also fierce competitors and will rob the turf of sunlight, nutrients and moisture. Lastly, weeds have a tendency to spread rapidly. A few left uncontrolled can quickly become a serious problem. Annual bluegrass (Poa annua) seeds germinate in the fall, and the grass makes white seed heads in the early spring. Grassy vs. Broadleaf: Types of Weeds Grassy weeds are true grasses and grass like plants which emerge from seed as a single leaf. The leaf blades are longer than they are wide and have parallel veins. An example is crabgrass. Broadleaf weeds emerge from seed with two leaves. Leaves have netlike veins and many, like dandelion or clover, have showy flowers. Annual vs. Perennial: Annuals germinate, grow, and die within a twelve month period. Summer annuals, such as goosegrass, germinate in the spring, grow through the summer, set seed, and die at the onset of cold weather. Winter annuals, such as chickweed, germinate in the fall, grow through the winter, set seed, and die as temperatures rise in early summer. Continued on next page

10 Perennials grow for two or more years. They reproduce from vegetative parts such as tubers, bulbs, rhizomes, or stolons, though some also produce seed. Examples are dallisgrass, wild garlic, and clover. Proper Management: Common dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) seeds blow in the wind and allow this perennial weed to become a frequent invader of home lawns. Joey Williamson, HGIC, Clemson Extension Weed control begins with proper management practices, which encourage a dense, healthy turf. A healthy turf shades the soil so that less sunlight reaches the ready to germinate weed seeds. A thick turf also minimizes the space available for weeds to become established. Proper management practices include mowing, watering, and fertilizing. Tall fescue should be mowed at heights between 2½ and 3½ inches, and mowed frequently enough so that no more than ⅓ of the blade is removed. For turfgrass in partial shade, the mowing heights may be raised slightly. Proper mowing heights will encourage a dense, healthy stand. When fescue shows signs of drought stress, water the lawn deeply so that the entire root zone is wet. This is typically 1 inch of irrigation water per week. During hot, dry periods, this may be every five to seven days. One inch of irrigation water will wet the soil to 6 inches deep, and encourage a healthy, extensive root system. Watering lawns three or more times per week will create moist surface soil conditions and promote weed seed germination and growth. However, it is difficult to water the lawn enough to sustain it through true drought conditions. Either water as needed to prevent drought or allow the lawn to go dormant. Allowing a lawn to go dormant during these periods is the best way to ensure the lawns survival. Dormant lawns in summer should receive about ½ inch of water every 3 weeks to prevent crown dehydration and plant death. Look for areas that stay excessively wet and make corrections so that water drains or is directed elsewhere. Fertilize and lime (if needed) in the fall from October through December and according to a soil test. Proper lime application will help to maintain a soil ph where nutrients are readily available to the turf. Core aeration helps relieve the soil compaction that prevents optimum root growth and favors many weeds. Core aeration is superior to spike aeration. For more information on all things Turf related try visiting the University of Kentucky Turf Website features on the next page.

11 UK s Turfgrass Science Do YOU know about UK s valuable online resource for maintaining YOUR Lawn? From UK s College of Agriculture, Food & Environment type ukturf/lawns.html. You will be pleased with the range of resources available. Here is a high level overview of the features: Establishment New Lawns AGR50 Renovation existing lawns AGR51 Selecting the right grass AGR52 Kentucky Bluegrass recommendations Tall Fescue recommendations Turfgrasses of Kentucky AGR216 Sod Producers in Kentucky Fertilizing Fertilizing your lawn AGR212 Principles of Home Landscape ID72 Soil Test AGR1 Liming Kentucky Lawns AGR214 Organic fertilizers video Fertilizer Calculator tool Calibrating Spreaders AGR211 Pest Management There is a section for Irrigation, Aerifying and Dethatching, and a turf care calendar Miscellaneous Off to the right look for the UK Lawn icon. Here you can watch how to sharpen blades or place a mole trap properly. VIDEOS for Your UK Lawn Be sure to check out Dr. Gregg Munshaw s MOLE Control in Lawns Return to the HOME Page of Turfgrass Science and select the Resources tab. Mowing AGR209 Blade Sharpening video Seasonal Mower Maintenance video Daily Mower Maintenance & cutting height video If you drop down to Pesticide Labels you can search over 150 manufacturer labels for specific ingredients.

12 HOUSEPLANTS For many people, a home is not complete without attractive potted plants. Proper care of houseplants helps increase satisfaction and enjoyment and extends the blooming period of many flowering plants. its color and feel. As the soil surface dries, it becomes lighter. Under continued drying, the soil begins to crack and pull away from the sides of the pot. When severe drying occurs, some damage already will have been done to the roots. Soil kept too moist becomes sticky and slimy, thus inviting root rots and other disease problems. Kinds of water Ordinary tap or well water is usually satisfactory for plants. Chlorine and fluorine often added to city water do not harm most plants, though some are sensitive. Rainwater and melted snow are excellent water sources. Water run through most water softeners, however, should not be used continuously for watering potted plants. Most potted plants purchased from a florist have been grown in greenhouses under ideal conditions. When they are placed in home environments designed for people, not plants, they need good care to adjust to the new environment. Watering Houseplants are probably killed or injured more often by improper watering than by any other single factor. No general schedule can be used for watering all houseplants. Size of plant, pot, light, temperature, humidity and other conditions influence the speed with which the soil mass dries out. When to water In general, flowering plants need more water than foliage plants of the same size. Never water any plant unless it needs it. Soil kept either too wet or too dry causes plant roots to die, which leads to poor growth or death of the plant. Never allow plants to wilt, and never allow them to stand in water for long periods of time. Learn to gauge the moisture content of the soil by How to water Plants may be watered from either the top or the bottom of the pot. If you prefer watering from the top, use a watering can with a small spout and keep as much water off the foliage as possible. Each time, wet the entire soil mass, not just the top inch. Add water until it comes through the drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. Discard water that remains beneath the pot one hour after watering. Watering from the bottom ensures thorough wetting of the soil mass. Place the pot in a pan or saucer filled with water, Brown leaf tips is a typical symptom of fluoride toxicity, a physiological disorder common in members of the lily family such as Spathiphyllum. or dunk the pot to just below its rim in a deep bucket of water. When the top of the soil becomes moist, the entire soil ball should be wet. Remove the pot, allow it to drain, and return it to the saucer. Salts may form a white accumulation on the soil continued on next page

13 surface if plants are watered regularly from the bottom. Occasional watering from the top helps wash out the salts. Don t allow the soil to reabsorb any water that has been run through the soil to leach out salts. If surface salt accumulation becomes too heavy to remove in this way, scrape off the surface soil and replace it with fresh soil. Try not to injure plant roots. Drainage Potted plants should always have good drainage. Occasionally, the drainage hole may become clogged by roots. Check it by pushing a finger, stick or pencil into it. Even if drainage from the pot is good, pot coverings can hold water. Pots wrapped in waterproof foil or placed in deep planters should be checked occasionally for standing water. Plants with wet feet soon look sick leaves yellow or drop, flowers collapse, and normally healthy white roots turn brown. Any or all of these symptoms can result from stagnation of the water, too little soil oxygen and development of diseases that rot the roots. Lighting Improper light intensity ranks close to improper watering as a frequent cause for failure with houseplants. A plant in proper light is better able to withstand the high temperature and low humidity of many homes. The amount of light necessary for good growth varies with different types of plants. Chinese evergreen is one of many foliage plants adapted to conditions in the home. Flowering plants All flowering plants need moderately bright light. Plants kept continuously in poor light will have spindly shoots, few flowers, yellow foliage, poor flower color and, often, little or no growth. South, east or west facing windows are excellent for most flowering potted plants, with the possible exception of African violets and related plants, which prefer a north facing window. Plants in bloom should be kept out of direct sunlight or the flowers will heat excessively and collapse more quickly. Light in the average room, away from windows, is not bright enough for most flowering plants, even when ceiling fixtures are kept on. Fluorescent lights located fairly close to houseplants will improve growth of plants that cannot be placed close to windows. When using artificial lights, place them about one foot above the top of the plant and keep them on for about 16 hours each day. The effects of insufficient light cannot be cured by extra fertilizer, water or repotting. Foliage plants Foliage plants are generally divided into those suitable for low-light areas, moderate-light areas and bright-light areas. Only a few plants can tolerate dimly lit room interiors. Most foliage plants do well with light at a north facing window, daylight with no direct sun, or sunlight diffused through a lightweight curtain. Plants that require full sunlight should be put in a south window. continued on next page

14 Plants can become acclimated to a location. An abrupt move from a low-light to a bright-light location may be damaging. Leaves gradually face toward light for maximum light absorption, especially in low-light areas. Moving a plant disrupts this orientation and causes the plant to use light less efficiently for a period of time. This is especially true of large plants. Abruptly moving a plant to more intense light especially direct sunlight results in bleaching or burning of foliage. Any lighting changes should be made gradually. Many plants can be kept from getting one-sided by turning them once a week. Temperature Proper temperatures for plants are often hard to find in the house. A hot, dry atmosphere shortens the life of flowers. Flowering potted plants do best in temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees F during the day and 55 to 60 degrees F at night. To extend the bloom of flowering potted plants in the home, move them to a cool spot at night. Foliage plants are more tolerant of high temperatures, but they thrive at temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees F. In winter, the temperature near windows may be cooler than elsewhere in the house. If drapes are drawn around a plant placed near a window, the temperature may be too cool. On cold nights, check temperatures close to windows. Some tropical foliage plants can be injured by temperatures below 40 degrees F. Do not put plants at windows that have hot air registers or radiators directly below them. Hot air blowing on a plant often causes leaves to brown on the edges and, occasionally, to droop or die. Humidity Air in most modern homes is extremely dry during the winter. A furnace or room humidifier can help plant growth. If a humidifier cannot be used, water-tight trays placed beneath the plants and filled with constantly moist sand or gravel help increase humidity around the plants. Pots must be placed on, not in, the wet sand or gravel. Misting over the leaves daily can help a plant overcome the stress of low humidity. Plants needing constant high humidity, such as orchids or gardenias, are best kept in kitchens or bathrooms, where humidity often runs higher. A relative humidity between 40 and 60 percent is best for most plants but is difficult to attain indoors. Fertilizing Newly purchased plants have been well fertilized in the greenhouse. They seldom need additional fertilizer for a few weeks. Plants that will be discarded after flowering will not benefit from being fertilized. Plants that will be kept should be put on a regular fertilization program. Fertilizing once a month is adequate for most houseplants that are producing new growth or flowers. However, plants do not need fertilizer in winter when no new growth is apparent. Do not use fertilizer to stimulate new growth on a plant located in poor growing conditions. Lack of growth is more often due to improper light or watering than to nutritional deficiencies. In such cases, adding fertilizer may actually cause additional injury. continued on next page

15 Dropping lower leaves, overall yellow-green color or weak growth may indicate a need for fertilization. However, these same symptoms may result from poor light or overwatering, so evaluate all conditions before fertilizing more than normal. Water-soluble, complete fertilizers formulated for houseplants are available from many garden shops, florists and nurseries. They are easy to use. Formulations vary, so be sure to follow directions carefully. Do not apply more than directed. The roots of potted plants are quite restricted and easily burned by the application of too much fertilizer at one time. Never apply liquid fertilizers to a wilted plant. Water the plant first, and apply fertilizer after the plant has recovered and the soil has dried slightly. Fertilizers that release nutrients slowly or over a long time period require less frequent application than liquid forms. They are available in beads, pills, spikes and other forms. Never exceed amounts suggested by the manufacturer s directions. Repotting Plants just brought home from the greenhouse seldom need immediate repotting. Many will not require potting for some time. A newly acquired plant must make adjustments to its new environment, and repotting immediately puts added strain on the plant. The time for repotting is when the plant becomes pot-bound, this is, when the plant s roots are too extensive for its pot. A potbound plant may need to be watered too frequently and may grow poorly. A good potting mixture for most houseplants consists of a blend of three parts sphagnum peat, one part vermiculite and one part perlite. Many commercially available peat-lite mixes are ideal for houseplants. Exceptions are epiphytic orchids, which should be potted in a very porous medium such as orchid bark, and cacti, which should be potted in equal parts of peat-lite mix and sterile sand. In most cases, avoid the addition of soil to a potting medium, as this often leads to poor drainage, overwatering and root diseases. When repotting, avoid excessive damage to the root system. Firm the soil gently around the root ball, but do not press so hard that the soil becomes compacted. Allow enough space at the top of the pot so that water can be added easily. Water newly potted plants thoroughly, drain, and Mealy bugs on houseplant. do not water again until necessary. Insects and diseases Watch new plants carefully for development of insect or disease problems. If detected early, these problems often can be corrected easily before serious damage is done. If undetected or ignored, they may become difficult to control. The three most common and difficult houseplant pests are spider mites, scales and mealy bugs. Plants such as African Violets can suffer chill injury when their leaf temperature fluctuates suddenly. Keep such plants away from cold drafts and use water that is room temperature when watering. continued on next page

16 During the summer, many houseplants can be revitalized if placed outdoors. Do not rush the plants out-side too early in the spring. Late May is usually soon enough. Cool nights may injure some plants. First, place the plants in a sheltered spot on a porch, beneath a tree or behind shrubs close to the house on a mild day, preferably when the weather is cloudy. After about one week of this adjustment, they may be moved to a more exposed but sheltered spot for the rest of the summer. Plants with large leaves should be placed where they are protected from the wind because their leaves are easily torn. Potted plants dry rapidly outdoors. Submerging the pots in soil can reduce watering frequency, as well as keep the pots from falling over. Lift each pot occasionally to keep roots from growing out of its drainage hole and to prevent the plant from becoming established outdoors. Fertilize monthly, and check occasionally for insects or diseases that may attack the plants outdoors. Move plants indoors by mid-september before cool weather returns. Durable houseplants Although all houseplants grow best with good care, a few tolerate abuse better than others. Some of the most durable houseplants are: Snake plant (Sansevieria trifaciata) Heart-leaf philodendron (Philodendron scandens) Golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) Corn plant (Dracaena fragrans) Janet Craig dracaena (Dracaena deremensis) Baby rubber plant (Peperomia obtusifolia) Cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) Parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans) Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum) Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) Snake Plant Heart-leaf Philodendron Baby Rubber Plant Cast Iron Plant Spider Plant Golden Pothos Corn Plant Parlor Palm

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18 Check out Bullitt County Horticulture on Facebook to keep up with upcoming classes, events, and get answers to your questions. Check out photos of past events. -Lorilee George RETURN SERVICE REQUESTED Shepherdsville, Ky Halls Ln. Bullitt County Cooperative Extension Service