LOOSELEAF. April Program Update from Georgia. - Georgia Eacker, Master Gardener Coordinator INSIDE -

Transcription

1 LOOSELEAF A Publication of the Howard County Master Gardeners 3300 NORTH RIDGE ROAD, SUITE 240 ELLICOTT CITY, MD (410) FAX (410) April 2016 INSIDE - 2 April Events 3 Advanced Training Opportunities 4 AAMG & MPEA News 5 Mt Pleasant & Whipps Updates 6 Volunteer Fair Report 7 Perennializing Narcissus / Book review 8 Native Bees 9 Patuxent Research Refuge News 10 Volunteer in Alaska / Latin 11 Continuing Education 12 Container Gardens Program Update from Georgia As we approach the end of the 2016 UME Howard County MG Training, it is appropriate to share some procedural information concerning our annual Recognition Event. Of course, that s when we have an opportunity to recognize our newly certified MGs. However, it is equally important to acknowledge years of volunteer service as 3, 5,10,15 and 20. In addition, we ll recognize those MGs who've provided 100 hours or more of volunteer service during the year. It occurs to me that it is important to share some logistical information about this event which will clarify the determination of years of service. All volunteer hours must be submitted by mid- December since this information goes to College Park. The UME office is closed during the holiday season, so it s critical to submit hours by mid-december. The Recognition Event will be scheduled for January 15, Please remember that the event is held in January because of the procedures required prior to the event, as I described above, but the main point to remember is that recognition for years of service is determined by the prior year. For example, on January 15, 2017 we will recognize five years of service calculated from 2016, so the Class of 2011 will receive the five-year pins. I hope this helps in understanding what is behind the planning of this special event. I welcome your questions and comments. I want to thank Beverly DeVuono for another excellent Volunteer Opportunity Fair. She puts in many hours of planning and organizing and it shows! We had a wonderful morning filled with lively discussions and information sharing. Thanks, Bev. Spring is springing with the schedule full of activities beginning with GreenFest on Saturday, April 16, from 10 am to 4 pm. It is a great event including a native plant sale, our exhibit tables and presentations. Hope to see you there! - Georgia Eacker, Master Gardener Coordinator The University of Maryland Extension programs are open to any person and will not discriminate against anyone because of race, age, sex, color, sexual orientation, physical or mental disability, religion, ancestry, national origin, marital status, genetic information, political affiliation, and gender identity or expression.

2 Calendar Highlights for April April is packed with MG activities, meetings and presentations. Click here for the calendar. Click on a date to find times, locations and contact info. You can view the calendar in week, month or Agenda format. Native Plant Sale at GreenFest 2016 April 16th from 10am - 4pm 4 Bay-Wise meeting 9 Daffodil Whipps 12 Continuing Education 16 GreenFest 19 Container Gardening 21 Alpha Ridge garden workday 22 Kids Container Gardening 26 Conservation Stewardship 27 Grow Great Tomatoes 28 Continuing Ed (evening) 29 Kids Container Gardening Work Days Enchanted Garden, Tuesdays Whipps, Thursdays Conservancy, Fridays Ask a Master Gardener Sessions at Central, Miller and Glenwood begin. Composting Demos at Alpha Ridge, Robinson Nature Center and Centennial. Click to check the MG electronic calendar for locations, times and contact info. Location: The Quad at Howard Community College Little Patuxent Pkwy, Columbia, MD Sponsored by University of Maryland Extension Howard County Master Gardeners Native Plant Vendors Participating 1) Kollar Nursery kollarnursery.com 2) Meadowsweet Native Plant Farm meadowsweetnative.com 3) Keystone Wildflowers keystonewildflowers.com 4) Lauren's Garden Service laurensgardenservice.com For further information and directions to GreenFest click here Please remember 1) A mention of specific products or businesses in LooseLeaf does not imply or constitute endorsement by UME. 2) In print (fliers, posters, brochures, signs, news releases, etc.) always use our full name: University of Maryland Extension Howard County Master Gardeners. This request comes from the University to support branding efforts of the MG program. 3) You ll want to earn 10 continuing education hours during 2016 to remain certified. Here are a few ideas. Attend a workshop at GreenFest. Go to an MG presentation at the library. Sign-up for Training Day. LooseLeaf APRIL 2016 Page 2

3 MG Advanced Training Opportunities To learn about all Advanced Training opportunities, go to 1) Features and Functions of Non-Tidal Wetlands Sat, April 16 from 10 am to 12 noon Registration Fee: $30 Registration Ends: April 8 For more information and to register: Location: Online component (2-4 hours) and a non-tidal wetland tour in Ellicott City, Howard County (2 hours). Location of the non-tidal wetland and meeting site will be ed to registrants on April 8. Class Description: Ria Malloy, instructor, will cover non-tidal wetlands: Soggy, remote land in need of development? Or a rich ecosystem teaming with life that is a vital component of a healthy watershed? The quality of that water when it reaches the Bay largely depends on the features and functionality of the non-tidal wetlands the water runs through while on its journey. Students will learn: what features define non-tidal wetlands, the value that non-tidal wetlands bring to our environment (e.g., filtering out pollutants in our water), the human actions that negatively impact non-tidal wetlands, how you can assist in preventing that harm by educating others about non-tidal wetlands. This class will count as 4 hours of continuing education. 2) Hands On! Graft your own Tomatoes Thursday, April 21 from 6 pm to 9 pm Registration Fee: $35 Registration Ends: April 14 For more information and to register: Location: UME Howard County office, 3300 Ridge Road, Suite 240, Ellicott City Class Description: Join us to learn how to graft tomatoes! By joining the desired cultivar (scion) to the disease resistant rootstock, you can grow higher yielding tomatoes. Your grafted tomatoes are resistant to many of the common root diseases that normally damage tomatoes. Each person will graft 10 plants to take home, plus be given a few extra rootstocks and scions for more at home grafting after the class. Instructions and after-grafting care will be part of the class. The tomato cultivars will include Pineapple, Brandywine, Cherokee Purple, and Green Zebra. Students will graft onto Maxifort. The instructor is Denise Sharp. The cost of the class includes supplies including rootstocks, scions, multiple types of grafting clips, and razor blades. This class will count as 3 hours of continuing education and also towards the Vegetable Gardening Certificate. 3) 18 th Annual Training Conference May 26 UMCP campus, 9:30 pm to 6:00 pm Open to all Master Gardeners (e.g., Active, Interns, Trainees) and Master Naturalists. $74 Early Registration (March 14-April 30). For conference details, download the brochure. LooseLeaf APRIL 2016 Page 3

4 Glenwood Ask A Master Gardener Update Interns Heads up! This is for you! With the closure of Central Library for renovations, we have added extra Ask A MG sessions at Glenwood Library (2350 Route 97, Cooksville, MD), about ten miles west of Ellicott City. New this year is Thursday evenings from 6-7:30 pm. So if you haven't signed up yet to fulfill this important training requirement, here is your opportunity to participate. You do not need to know all the answers! You will be working with an experienced MG, and most questions can be answered from what you already know. Also, I find that I always learn something new about gardening when I participate. We have openings for interns on Saturdays (April 16, April 23, May 21) and on Thursdays (April 28, May 19, June 9, June 30). So, please choose your date and let me know at helloclare@comcast.net. This is one of the easiest and fun ways to fulfill your volunteer hour requirement! Clare Openshaw, MG 2012, helloclare@comcast.net Coordinator, Glenwood Ask A MG Garlic Mustard Pulling and Spring Flower Walk April 26 at MPEA MPEA (Middle Patuxent Environmental Area) includes a diversity of habitat types, including upland and bottomland hardwood forest, fields, wetlands, ponds and riparian habitats. MGs partner with the HC Recreation & Parks for the Conservation Stewardship Program from March to November. The April effort is always well attended, so plan now to help pull up invasive garlic mustard. We ll also search for and identify many species of spring ephemeral flowers. If we re lucky, our trip will coincide with the gorgeous showing of Virginia bluebell blooms along the river. The walking route is determined by where we find the mustard. Be ready for vigorous garlic mustard pulling paired with a leisurely stroll in the forest. Our guest speaker will talk about the form and structures of flowers. We ll start at 9:00 am at the South Wind Circle trailhead. Take Route 29 to Route 108 west toward Clarksville, or Route 32 to Route 108 east. Turn onto Trotter Rd, go about one mile to South Wind Circle. Enter the circle and proceed to trailhead on the left opposite Misty Top Path. Or check the MG electronic calendar, go to 4/26, and click on the map to find your way! Check the calendar for other Conservation Stewardship dates (fourth Thurs of each month.) Aylene Gard, MG 1998, kgmerger@verizon.net LooseLeaf APRIL 2016 Page 4

5 Gardening Begins at Mt. Pleasant. Join us on Fridays! April is busy. Our official gardening season starts Friday, April 1. From now through the end of October our regular work days are every Friday from 9 am to 11 am weather permitting. We don t work in the rain! This month we will renew the vegetable garden beds, mulch the paths and plant cool season crops. We ll also prepare for our plant sale during Earth Day at Mt. Pleasant on April 23. Please share your native plant divisions you clean up your planting beds. Spring school programs are starting. They include two-hour service learning activities. MGs will help supervise groups of students removing invasives, planting trees and doing trail maintenance. Instructions will be given a half hour before students arrive. Plan now to volunteer! The four dates for school programs are: April 4 and 5 from 8:30 am to 11am Patapsco Valley Middle School April 21 and 22 from 8:30 am to 11:45 am Burleigh Manor Middle School There are several programs during April that may be of interest to MGs. On April 28, Ned Tillman will present Celebrating the Places We Love, Right Here in Howard County. He has written two books, The Chesapeake Watershed and Saving the Places We Love. If you have one or both books be sure to bring them. He ll have a book signing at the end of the program. For more information, and to register, go to April 23 is Earth Day at Mt. Pleasant. Activities include a bird walk at 8 am and service projects from 9 am to 1 pm. Master Gardeners are needed to help supervise tree planting and invasive pulls. We also need volunteers to help with the plant sale, the profits of which support our work at Mt. Pleasant. TO VOLUNTEER for the April school programs and/or Earth Day, please contact MG Jo Ann Russo by phone ( ) or . Jo Ann Russo, MG 1997, jrusso1104@comcast.net Whipps Annual Plant Sale May 13 & 14 The annual fund-raiser will be held at the First Lutheran Church at the corner of Chatham and Frederick Roads. It will feature natives perennial flowers, including butterfly, shade-loving, and deer-resistant plants. Many plants will be donated by MGs. There will be an assortment of plants that attract Monarchs and other butterflies, and certified day lilies. Proceeds are used for the up-keep of the Whipps garden-park. Share some plants from your garden! Volunteer to help with the sale. Contact Aleta Gravelle at agravelle@verizon.net or LooseLeaf APRIL 2016 Page 5

6 VOLUNTEER FAIR FOLLOW UP A clear, bright morning greeted attendees of the Annual Volunteer Opportunity Fair at the HoCo Conservancy at Mt Pleasant on March 7. Interns and MGs alike gathered for conversation and coffee (to include those ever present irresistible treats!) prior to short presentations of the multitude of opportunities for sharing our talents and knowledge with the greater Howard County community. Among the more familiar areas showcased were the Ask A Master Gardener Plant Clinics at the county libraries, Backyard Composting how-tos, the Alpha Ridge Conservation/Rain Garden demonstration site, Bay Wise choices for a healthy Chesapeake Bay, the Conservation Stewardship Project at the MPEA with its focus on removing invasives, the Grow It, Eat It vegetable gardening tips, the demonstration garden at the Howard County Conservancy at Mt Pleasant, the maintenance of the Whipps Garden Cemetery and the Oella/Ellicott City Entry Garden, support of the unique outdoor venue of Miller Library's Enchanted Garden, and development of the Patuxent Research Refuge, School Yard Habitat. New this year is an opportunity to help with restoring and reviving neglected garden beds at the Patapsco Female Institute ruins and historic park. Our School and Youth Programs (Green Schools, Youth Education, Environmental Report Card, Our Environment in Our Hands, Days of Taste) continue to evolve and reach out to the next generation of our community in significant and memorable ways. Other smaller group activities are available as well, and can be found by consulting the complete listing at the link below. None of this would have been possible, however, without all the dedicated behind-the-scenes efforts of Beverly DeVuono and her team of helpers who manage to heroically pull all this together in one place for our convenience and enjoyment a heartfelt thanks to all! To further encourage your involvement and commitment if you haven't done so already, here's a link to the complete listing with detailed descriptions: Clare Openshaw, MG 2012, helloclare@comcast.net LooseLeaf APRIL 2016 Page 6

7 Perennializing Narcissus First the disclaimer: I'm not a bulb expert; there are differences of opinion among those who are; there are always pesky exceptions. The tips that follow come from extensive reading and personal experience. If you want your narcissus (aka daffodils) to return for many years, then you need to choose wisely. In an ideal world, you would plant your daffodils in an area with rich, well-draining loam (most bulbs resent wet feet); plenty of sun; a neutral to slightly acidic ph; no competition for nutrients from surrounding trees or other plants. For many of us, reality means clay soil; deciduous trees; inadequate sun; less than ideal drainage; competition for nutrients. The good news is that despite imperfect conditions, most bulbs will bloom and return. After all, bulbs have been colonizing for 35 million years. First prepare the ground, adding compost for good drainage. As a general rule, bulbs should be planted three times their height or, for large narcissus, approximately 6 inches deep and at least 3-4 inches apart. They should be fertilized at the time of planting, but unless you're using compost, you should make sure that the roots don't come into direct contact with a commercial fertilizer. For best root growth it's a good practice to loosen the soil to a depth greater than six inches. Even if you're promised rain in the next two minutes, water each bulb well at time of planting. Since most of us do have competition for nutrients, after the first year you should fertilize your bulbs in spring and fall, avoiding fertilizer that's high in nitrogen. I use compost both as soil amendment and as fertilizer. Most experts agree that the best time for planting bulbs is after the first frost but before the ground freezes. Apparently most bulbs don't start root development until the ground is quite cool, and earlier planting may encourage top growth instead of the desired root growth. Avoid the temptation to cut or fold the limp foliage for at least six weeks after the narcissus blooms. Bulbs need leaf surfaces to absorb nutrients for next year's flower. Deadheading (desirable in many bulbs) is not necessary with daffodils. If you need to replant bulbs because of overcrowding (dwindling blooms), the logical time to do so is when the foliage has turned brown but is still visible. In the coming months look for more tips for perennializing as well as some specific recommendations. Judy Petersen, MG 1998, ironicjp@verizon.net April Book Review Bringing Nature Home, How Native Plants Sustain Wildlife in Our Gardens, by Douglas W. Tallamy, explores how our gardens protect and renew suburban biodiversity. Tallamy s focus on insect biomass was a new perspective for me on why native plants are so valuable to our ecosystem. Insect herbivores eat and reproduce on plants in our landscapes. Our native herbivores, such as the caterpillar of the monarch butterfly, overwhelmingly prefer native plants. These herbivores have predators, various beetles and spiders, and parasites. Birds, bats, turtles, frogs, other assorted amphibians and small mammals consume this vital biomass, food, produced by this evolutionary process. All native plants are not equal in terms of their value to wildlife. Oaks, willows and cherries host more than 1,400 insect species collectively. While native poison ivy, ferns and tulip trees host only a few surviving insect species. Birches support 413 species of Lepidoptera (moths and butterflies); chestnuts support 125. Gardeners can increase the proportion of natives to aliens in their landscapes by applying the law of attrition, replacing dead aliens with natives. Small patches of existing gardens can be redesigned to include natives. New beds can be created near existing gardens or over lawn. (Continued on page 8) LooseLeaf APRIL 2016 Page 7

8 (Continued from page 7) Beautiful photographs from Tallamy s gardens and research projects illuminate hidden wonders in nature. Interesting facts about mating practices, defensive tactics, communication methods, digestive abilities and eating habits accompany the photos. A hag moth caterpillar, looking like an abandoned tarantula skin, hangs out on a chicory leaf. Bess beetle larvae eat wood shavings prepared by their parents and older siblings. Leaf splotches hide bolas spiders. This book encourages me that my personal efforts in gardening and advising others do make a difference. Suburban biodiversity is a renewable resource, when focus is given to the food and shelter needed by wildlife. My gardening will include an extra mental diligence towards plant and insect diversity. Trees and bushes will remain integral to my vertical landscaping. Thanks to MG Clare Openshaw for recommending this interesting and informative book to me. Spring has sprung! May all our dandelions delight. Native Bees, Part 2: How to Attract Native Bees to Your Garden To encourage native bees in your garden: 1. Stop using pesticides Even natural herbicides and botanical or organic insecticides can harm bees. If absolutely necessary, pesticides should be applied in the evening when bees are nesting. 2. Provide nesting habitats Most bees love sun and prefer to nest in dry places. An un-mowed patch of grass and weeds in a protected spot can provide shade. Many bees nest in the ground, so limit tilling. Leave some bare sunny spots and open patches of mud. Loose soil, sand, or gravel can also be very appealing. Leave things a bit messy to create potential nest sites. This might include brush piles and last year s stems from plants such as Joe Pye-Weed. Holes in dead trees, hung sections of bamboo sections, hollow reeds, or nesting blocks made out of untreated wood all provide potential nesting holes for small bees. 3. Furnish suitable blooms and wild forage Native bees like native plants. They also like herbs, like those in the mint family thyme, oregano, sage, basil, lavender, catmint, rosemary, marjoram, hyssop, and mountain mint. White Dutch clover, which can be part of your lawn, will attract lots of bees and fertilize the lawn at the same time, since it fixes nitrogen. Also try bird s foot trefoil, self-heal, thyme, and vetches, which are all considered weeds. Have flowering plants in all growing seasons, since bees need year-round food. Strive for at least 3 different flowers at the same time. Asters provide both pollen and nectar. Bees tend to be especially attracted to flowers that are blue, purple, and yellow/white; they can t see red. Avoid plants with "double flowers. Bred mostly for human visual appeal, they often have very little pollen which is difficult for pollinators to access. Hybrids can also have limited pollen/nectar. Flowers in the daisy family cosmos, zinnia, sunflowers, and dahlias often attract bees. Beware of the pollen-less varieties. Plant comfrey, which renews nectar every 45 minutes, or borage, which renews nectar every 2 minutes! Supplement nectar during the early spring days; use a mixture of 1 part sugar and 2 parts water. Hummingbird feeders without bee guards work well. Provide water in a shallow saucer or puddle for bees; place a stone in your bird bath so bees won t drown. Next month: Mason Bees. Carolyn Dunmire, MG 2015, cdunmire@gmail.com LooseLeaf APRIL 2016 Page 8

9 Patuxent Research Refuge Schoolyard Habitat Yeah! It really is spring. This morning I spied the first bloom in the Schoolyard Habitat (SYH), a native chickweed, Cerastium arvense, showing off during our first work session of the season. We planted them two years ago as a ground cover under the larger showier summer wildflowers, so that we would not have to use hardwood mulch. The native plants are naturalizing, growing thick colonies. A photo from April 2015, shows the ground is still bare, the tendrils of C. arvense reach out to fill the bare space. Rich, thick cover is evident in the March 2016 photo. The oak leaf cover provided winter shelter to plants and insects. In spite of the heavy snows, the C. arvense pushed its way through the leaf litter to bloom on schedule. Also shown is chickweed, an invasive. Check Newcomb s Wildflowers Guide, to find at least two non-native chickweeds and four native chickweeds. Check BONAP.org to see that one of these is native to our eco-region One of the delights of working in the SYH is the critters. Two mating toads were enjoying our leaf litter and we have strands of toad eggs in the pond. Upcoming Workdays and Meetings Sun. April 3, 9 am - noon: workday Non-native Chickweed Sun. April 3, noon: Spring Garden Party April 6, 9 am - noon workday April 6, noon - 1 pm: Planning meeting Sun. April 10, 9 am - noon: workday Wed. April 13, 9 am - noon: workday Sun. April 17, 9 am - noon: workday Wed. April 20, 9 am - noon: workday Sun. April 24, 9 am - noon: workday Wed. April 27, 9 am - noon: workday To volunteer, please contact: Ann Coren, Master Gardener coordinating the project, or Diana Ogilvie, Ranger and Volunteer Coordinator Springtime for toads at the Patuxent Research Refuge, Diana_Ogilvie@fws.gov, All long-term volunteers need to complete the one-day PRR volunteer orientation at the Refuge. Single day volunteer opportunities will be listed in the LooseLeaf. There are also opportunities for helping with photography, literature, tabling, teaching, critter and plant surveys, etc. Ann Coren, MG 2013, anncoren@hotmail.com LooseLeaf APRIL 2016 Page 9

10 A Garden Volunteer in Alaska After living in Alaska for the past 38 years, Virginia and I decided to relocate in Maryland to be near our children and grandchildren. The relocation involved many challenges, not the least of which was culture shock. Accustomed to living in a vast wilderness with no roads connecting the community to the outside world, I found myself overwhelmed by the crowds, the traffic, and urban culture. Virginia encouraged me to join the Maryland Master Gardener training program. The training exceeded my expectations and provided many opportunities to become involved in Howard County. This spring I was invited back to Alaska to run the summer education program at a juvenile detention facility in Juneau. In addition to running the summer education program, I was responsible for an extensive gardening program which includes two greenhouses and sixteen large raised beds. Raising vegetables in Southeast Alaska is a challenge but the real product of our gardening program is the impact that gardening has on our young charges. Gardening is a healing experience for our young people, many of whom have suffered serious trauma in their lives. to collaborate with another staff member to write a greenhouse curriculum for southeast Alaska schools. Grow Southeast, a non-profit organization, has built a portable greenhouse on wheels which will be circulated to rural communities in Southeast Alaska on an annual basis to promote gardening. In addition to developing the curriculum, I have been told to expect to travel with the greenhouse to help with the initial setup and training of community gardening volunteers. The need for sustainable food production in Alaska has become apparent over the past several years. Alaska produces only 3% of the food consumed in the state. A document from the University of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension Service describes Alaska's food situation as a state of "food insecurity." In response, the state has established several emergency food caches near population centers and is putting policies in place which encourage local food production. I look forward to returning to my family in Ellicott City in several more weeks, and again becoming an active member of the Maryland Master Gardener community. Until then, I remain here in Alaska, sharing what I have learned both in Maryland and on our garden plots at the juvenile detention center. Being a part of the Maryland Master Gardener program has been a major help to me in my work here in Alaska. To say that I am most grateful to the Master Gardener Program of Howard County, the Master Gardeners who have been my teachers, and my fellow trainees who befriended me, would be an understatement. In addition to running the summer school and gardening program at the facility, I have been asked -- Paul Berg, MG2015 tma21446@gmail.com Latin for Gardeners Quick Review: Using the Latin name of plants helps gardeners avoid confusion when discussing or referring to a specific plant. Scientific names are Latin binomials, the first word is the generic name or genus and the second word is the specific epithet, a noun or adjective used to distinguish a species from others in the same genus. Latin names are always italicized or underlined. On occasion you will see the author of the name included (often as an abbreviation) after the binomial. If you only see an L. then you know that the author was none other than Carl von Linne (or Linnaeus), the Swedish botanist referred to as the "father of modern taxonomy." April s Native Maryland Plant Cornus florida L. (flowering dogwood) is an ornamental tree with striking spring blooms that are on display in Maryland throughout April and May. The genus Cornus originates from the Latin word cornu which means horn and refers to its hard wood. The specific epithet florida has nothing to do with the state of Florida but rather the glorious flowering state of this plant. LooseLeaf APRIL 2016 Page 10

11 Plant Cornus florida as an understory tree in slightly acidic, well-drained soil. It has a very shallow root system that makes it susceptible to drying out so be sure to water it in the absence of regular rainfall. It will reward you by heralding in spring with its beautiful blooms and then turning its leaves a lovely red to maroon in the fall. Did you know? In 2012, the United States sent 3,000 dogwood saplings to Japan to commemorate the 100 year anniversary of the Washington D.C. cherry trees that were given as a gift to the U.S. by Japan in The saplings were originally grown in North Carolina and Maryland. Alison Milligan, MG 2013, ali_milligan@yahoo.com 2016 Continuing Education Speaker Series MGs, Watershed Stewards, Master Naturalists and their guests are welcome to attend. Sessions will be held at the UME office. Check the MG electronic calendar for updates. For questions, contact: Karin DeLaitsch kdlaitsch@gmail.com; or, Joanna Cumbie rladywalking@msn.com APRIL 12 9:30-11:00 am Creating a Bay-Wise Landscape Worthy of a Garden Tour Bay-Wise Committee representative Learn from these outstanding gardens how to create and enhance your own Bay -Wise landscape. APRIL 28 7:00 8:30 PM Note: Thursday EVENING. What a Warming World Means to Insects. Dr. Michael Raupp, University of Maryland College Park. Raupp explores evidence of climate change affecting insects. He shows how warmer temperature can alter ranges of pest, seasonal phenology of insects and mites, and interactions among plants, herbivores, and the natural enemies. MAY 10 9:30-11:00 am Wildflowers: Fact and Folklore Irvine Nature Center representative Learn about ecology, legends, and folklore of Maryland's wildflowers. LooseLeaf APRIL 2016 Page 11

12 Getting Started on Container Gardening I turned to MGs Holly McFarland and Molly McElwee, and asked them about selecting plants at a nursery. 1. When you re in a garden center looking at plants, how do you judge which is the healthiest? Holly: I try to bypass any plant with yellow or wilted leaves, any sign of disease or bugs, and is either pot bound with roots girdling the pot or too few roots. We've been told to tap a plant out of its pot to check root status, but I feel awkward doing that. I try a more subtle approach. I avoid plants with dry soil. Their roots may be compromised. I choose smaller, more vigorous looking plants over tall, spindly ones that may mean poor growing conditions. Molly: I look for the healthiest plants, not always the biggest, with full, non-limp leaves and stalks. I don t always choose ones with buds because I prefer them to open at my place, and the flowers won t be damaged in transplanting). 2. Which planting media do you prefer? Why? Holly: Using the term 'planting media' is a good one, Barb! Most people use potting soil and potting mix interchangeably, but technically they are different. Soil is the planting media we find in earth gardens; potting mix is not soil, but usually a combination of sphagnum peat moss, bark, perlite or vermiculite, often some slow-release fertilizer and possibly a moisture retaining ingredient. Molly: I use potting soil (usually Miracle-Gro) that does not have a lot of fillers (vermiculite, perlite, etc.). I believe it depends on the size and location of the pot as to which potting soil works best. I use potting soil with moisture on larger urns and just plain potting soil on smaller containers. 3. What do you put in your containers for growing medium? Molly: Plain potting soil. I don t add compost (Leaf Gro). If it is extremely hot I put a very light layer of mulch on the larger urns. Holly: For indoor plants I use a regular potting mix, bark for orchids and the mix amended with sand for cacti, etc. For outdoor pots I often amend the potting mix with some finished compost. 4. How often should you change the soil in your containers? How do you do it? Molly: Long ago I was told to change the soil every 1 to 3 years based on the size of the pot and the plant. For larger urns I add and mix soil in every year as it adds nutrients. The small containers are changed every two years. When I change soil, the old soil goes in bad spots in my garden. Holly: Hmm, I'm a lazy gardener! For indoor plants I only change the mix if I need to repot a plant or if the plant is not thriving. Some of my indoor plants are too big to repot, so I top dress the containers with fresh potting mix and aerate the upper part of the soil by gently pushing a bamboo skewer into the top few inches of the soil. During the growing season I amend the soil by using a weak water soluble fertilizer such as Miracle Gro. I use large pots outside. I'd go broke if I replaced the potting mix very often, so I reuse it and amend with compost. I have perennials in pots that have lived for several years. When things get too crowded or the plants show a lack of vigor, I dig and divide, then replant the division back into the pot, adding more potting mix or compost. 5. Do you ever have a problem with ants in your outdoor containers? Holly: I ve not had a problem with ants, but believe they are attracted to sandy soils. I have periodic infestations of them in my earth garden. Molly: A tip from my Mom works great a pitcher of water with a drop or two of liquid dish soap. Water your plant. Leave it for a bit and then lightly flush/rinse your plant. The soap washes out the ants. I also put flat traps tucked in the plant for ants that don t live there but just come to visit. Barb Langridge, MG 1994, yellowstone30@gmail.com LooseLeaf APRIL 2016 Page 12

13 Landscape Lessons An Excellent Alternative to Japanese Barberry Looking ahead to a time when my wife and I will no longer have the strength and flexibility to maintain a large garden, I designed a complete makeover of the largest of our gardens, a 400 sq ft. crescent stretching across the entire back yard. In place of what now is a large assortment of perennials there will be a wide variety of shrubs, carefully chosen for contrasting color, texture, and foliage both deciduous and evergreen. The hope is that this will greatly reduce the amount of labor needed to maintain the garden while still providing a pleasing view from our living room windows. One challenge in planning this revision is what to use in place of the old workhorse Japanese crimson barberry (Berberis thunbergii) which I ripped out last year in the first phase of reconstruction. The shrub is popular with designers and homeowners because it offers easy care, beautiful colors, few pests, and four seasons interest: the last season being thin dark branches hung with jewel-like red berries (which birds, alas, disperse in nearby woods and forests with devastating effect). The shrub contrasts especially well with light green or gold colored evergreens --exactly what I need next to the Golden Globe arborvitae installed as the anchor plants. After much research and many visits to local nurseries, I found a gorgeous little new shrub that is a cultivar of our native ninebark, a plant that up till now has required a significant amount of garden space. This new little shrub, however, requires much less space and fits many of the landscaping niches formerly filled by barberry. It is called Little Devil ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius "Little Devil") and will grow 3 by 4 feet. Little Devil is the trade name and it also is sold as Physocarpus opulifolius x Donna May. I particularly like the elegantly cut leaves that are similar in appearance to some of the finer Japanese maples. It does have minor flowers, tiny pinkish-white buttons in summer, but its foliage is the main attraction. The literature on the plant says it is resistant to diseases, pests, and mildew and is not fussy about types of soils. I hope that is true and will report further on this as the year goes by (I planted it last summer). So far, reviews online are good so I'm holding my breath. By the way, I have chosen "Wine and Roses" weigela as my other "red" accent shrub. Both are increasingly available at local nurseries, so as you begin your visits to these outlets, check out these two shrubs as possibilities for your landscaping needs. Roy Heath, 2011, therents2001@yahoo.com Source: The University of Maryland Extension programs are open to any person and will not discriminate against anyone because of race, age, sex, color, sexual orientation, physical or mental disability, religion, ancestry, national origin, marital status, genetic information, political affiliation, and gender identity or expression.