SERVICE MANUAL. MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE FOR MATSUI DMZ DRYERS Phone (847) Fax (847)

Transcription

1 SERVICE MANUAL MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE FOR MATSUI DMZ DRYERS Phone (847) Fax (847) ITEM: PAGE: INTRODUCTION 2 NOMENCLATURE 2-3 DAILY MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE 4 MONTHLY MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE 4 6 MONTH MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE 4 MAINTENANCE DESCRIPTIONS AND DIRECTIONS 5-12 ALARMS TROUBLESHOOTING FREQUENTLY ASKED SERVICE QUESTIONS COMMON SPARE PARTS 26

2 INTRODUCTION Matsui s DMZ Desiccant Dryer is a high-performance machine designed for fast, low dew point drying of plastic pellets, easy maintenance and long life. As with any machine, some basic maintenance steps must be completed regularly to ensure proper operation and the quick, complete drying the DMZ is capable of. This guide contains the recommended maintenance intervals and procedures for trouble-free operation. Also included is a section on basic troubleshooting. In the event that a dryer s performance falters, use this guide to help find the possible cause, as well as the remedy to keep your DMZ running properly and at peak performance. NOMENCLATURE Desiccant Rotor: The desiccant rotor is the heart of the DMZ dryer. This revolutionary design allows for constant and steady absorption and regeneration cycles. The result is a steady, constant low dew point of -40 F or lower. The desiccant rotor is turned through the various cycles at the rate of 3 revolutions per hour. If, for whatever reason, this rotor is not turning, absorption and regeneration will not occur, preventing moisture removal from the material. Regeneration: Regeneration, as it is referred to in this guide, is the process of drying the moisture absorbed by the desiccant rotor. This involves the use of a blower with an intake filter, a heater and heater tank, hoses and an exhaust port. Ambient air is drawn in through the regeneration filter by the regeneration blower and blown over the regeneration heater where it is heated to 446 F (230 C). The heated air is then blown over the saturated desiccant rotor to burn off the moisture. Heat and airflow are the most important aspects of regeneration. If either is not correct, proper drying will not occur. A clean regeneration filter and properly working electrical components are mandatory. Process: Process, as referred to in this guide, is the heated air that flows over the plastic pellets inside the drying hopper. This involves a process filter, process blower and process heater, to produce hot air to blow over the resin in the hopper. Because hot air gathers and holds more moisture then cold air, it is important to have the process side of the dryer working correctly. Heat and airflow are the most important aspects of removing moisture from the plastic pellets. If there is proper heat, but not enough airflow to carry the moist air out of the hopper to the desiccant rotor, poor drying will occur. Likewise, if there is proper airflow, but the air is not hot enough to gather the moisture, inadequate drying will occur. A clean process filter and properly working electrical components are mandatory. 2

3 Aftercooler: Inside each DMZ there is an aftercooler for the process air. The aftercooler serves several purposes. First and foremost, it protects the desiccant rotor by catching any small fines that may get past the process filter and build up in the rotor. It also condenses any gases that may be given off during the heating of the plastic pellets. The Aftercooler begins to cool the moist process air before it goes through the desiccant rotor, to help the air give up the moisture to the desiccant. Inadequate water flow to the aftercooler may result in a higher dew point and poor drying conditions. In addition, it cools down the hot air moving through the process blower, which will help increase the life-span of bearings, motor, etc. Thermocouple: The thermocouple, simply stated acts like a thermometer and senses the temperature of the air flowing through either the regeneration heater, or the process heater. The thermocouple reports the temperature to the unit controller. If the Process temp is set for 200 F, and the thermocouple is either misadjusted or broken, two results can occur: First, if the temperature in the hopper is too low, moisture will not be removed from the plastic pellets. Likewise, if the temperature is too high, a melt down inside the hopper can occur. A properly adjusted thermocouple is important to insure proper drying. Magnetic Contactors: magnetic contactors are the switches that turn the heaters and blowers on and off, following the commands of the temperature controller. These contactors are generally good for 1 million on / off cycles. This means if a dryer is running 24 hours 7 days a week, the heater contactors will last about 9 months. The blower contactors last considerably longer, as once the blower is on, the contactor is not cycling on and off. The constant on / off action is what wears out a contactor. Watching the heater contactors is especially important because if one or more legs of the contactors burn out, eventually, the corresponding heater will burn out. Contactors are cheaper than heaters. 3

4 DAILY MAINTENANCE MAINTENANCE ITEM: Regeneration filter Process filter Regeneration Temperature Process Temperature Thermocouple on Drying Hopper Drying Hoses PROCEDURE: Blow out with compressed air Blow out with compressed air Confirm set point being reached Confirm set point being reached Check for damage, replace if necessary Check for wear, replace if necessary MONTHLY MAINTENANCE MAINTENANCE ITEM: Regeneration filter Process filter Regeneration Temperature Process Temperature Thermocouple on Drying Hopper Drying Hoses Aftercooler Water Supply Magnetic Heater Contactors Regeneration Heater Process Heater Desiccant Rotor PROCEDURE: Blow out with compressed air Blow out with compressed air Confirm set point being reached Confirm set point being reached Check for damage, replace if necessary Check for wear, replace if necessary Check that water valve is open Check resistance Ohms check Ohms check Turning or indexing properly 6 MONTH MAINTENANCE MAINTENANCE ITEM: Regeneration Filter Process Filter Regeneration Temperature Process Temperature Thermocouple on Drying Hopper Drying Hoses Aftercooler Water Supply Magnetic Heater Contactors Magnetic Blower Contactors Regeneration Heater Process Heater Desiccant Rotor Cabinet interior Nuts and bolts PROCEDURE: Replace Replace Confirm set point being reached Confirm set point being reached Check for damage, replace if necessary Check for wear, replace if necessary Clean strainer Check resistance, replace if necessary Check resistance, replace if necessary Ohms check Ohms check Turning or indexing properly Vacuum or blow out with compressed air Check for loose nuts and bolts throughout 4

5 MAINTENANCE DESCRIPTIONS AND DIRECTIONS Regeneration Filter: In all models, the regeneration filter is mounted directly on the regeneration blower. This filter cleans the air flowing over the regeneration heater and through the desiccant rotor. To clean or change this filter, first, make sure the dryer is shut off and the blowers stopped. On the DMZ-40 model, this filter is accessed on the back panel, through a hole at the bottom. This filter, since it is low to the ground, gets very dirty very fast! Remove this filter by unscrewing the hold down wing nut and removing the nut and washer. On DMZ-80 and 120 models, the regeneration filter is accessed through a square hole at the top of the rear panel. The filter simply unscrews from the blower and removed through the hole. On DMZ-170 and 240 models, the filter is accessed through a flip-down panel at the top rear of the dryer, Remove the two wing screws holding the panel shut. With the door panel open, remove the wing nut and washer holding the regeneration filter in place. Using compressed air, blow out the filter from the inside out. The filter should be changed every 6 months or sooner under servere conditions. The regeneration exhaust should blow as hard with a clean filter as it does with no filter. If you blow out the filter and the airflow from the regeneration exhaust diminishes considerable when you re-install the filter, install a new filter! In all cases, installation is in reverse order of removal. REGENERATION FILTER LOCATIONS DMZ-40 DMZ-80 / 120 DMZ-170 / 240 Process Filter: On DMZ , the process filter is located on the back middle of the dryer. To clean or change this filter, first shut down the dryer and be sure both blowers have stopped. This is important to keep foreign matter out of the desiccant rotor. Remove the knurled knob and washer holding the round cover in place. With the cover off, remove the wing nut and rubber washer holding the filter in place. Using compressed air, blow out the filter from the inside. The filter should be changed every 6 months or sooner under severe conditions. If the filter has been blown out and the inside does not look white anymore, install a new filter! Replace the filter in the reverse order of removal, being sure to install the rubber washer rubber side against the filter. 5

6 Regeneration Temperature: The regeneration temperature is factory set at 446 F (230 C). This is the optimum temperature for removing moisture from the desiccant rotor during the regeneration cycle. This temperature can be checked by pressing the PV button on the face of the controller until the L.E.D. indicator is under the word REGEN and 446 reads in the PV window. A regeneration temperature of less that 410 F (210 C) is indicative of a problem with the regeneration system. Process temperature: Simply stated, if the process, or drying temperature in the PV window is more than a few degrees off from the temperature entered in the SV window, after an hour of running, there is probably a problem on the drying side of the DMZ. Remember though, the minimum guaranteed temperature for a DMZ is 130 F (54 C), so it may not go lower than that. Thermocouple on Drying Hopper: The thermocouple on the drying hopper should be checked for damage and proper adjustment regularly. The end tip should be dead center in the middle of the heater box tube. This should be factory set, however check to make sure the nut is tight and the thermocouple can t move up or down. If the thermocouple is severely bent or broken, replace it! Inside the thermocouple there are two very small and fragile wires that can easily be damaged if the thermocouple is smashed or bent. If these wires are damaged, or the thermocouple is misadjusted, the temperature controller may inaccurately sense the hopper temperature. This can cause poor drying, or in the worst case a material meltdown in the hopper. THERMOCOUPLE ADJUSTMENT MISADJUSTED DAMAGED CORRECT Drying Hoses: The drying hoses, or the orange Hoses, should be checked regularly for cuts, abrasions, kinks or other damage that would impede maximum air flow. If a hose is cut, outside air can be brought into the machine thus reducing the ability of the dryer to create a dry material, Likewise, is a hose is kinked or crushed, airflow over the resin pellets may be impeded, slowing the time it takes to dry the material. Damaged hoses should be replaced immediately. 6

7 Aftercooler Water Supply: Check to make sure that water is flowing to the aftercooler. Make sure the valve is open and clean the strainer at least twice a year. To clean the strainer, shut off the water valve, and remove the strainer nut at the bottom of the strainer. Remove the strainer and clean it of debris and any corrosion. Replace the strainer and tighten the nut. STRAINER MAINTENANCE REMOVE AND CLEAN STRAINER Magnetic Heater Contactors: The heater contactors should be checked on a monthly basis to ensure proper operation. Typically there are two Heater contactors, although some high heat models may have three or four. There are two ways to check a contactor. In either case, you will need a Multi-Meter to properly check operation. VOLTAGE CHECK: Electrical maintenance should only be performed by individuals with proper electrical knowledge and training The first check, the voltage check, can be done with the machine running. Always use extreme caution when working on and around the high voltage inside the electrical cabinet. 1) Set the Multi-meter to the proper AC voltage setting that corresponds to the voltage rating of your machine. 2) Confirm that the proper voltage is being supplied to the line side of the contactor by checking the line side leads horizontally, between each pair of line leads, (L1&L2, L1&L3 and L2&L3). This voltage should be the same as the plant voltage. (See fig. 1) 3) Next, repeat this process on the load side leads of the contactor. Keep in mind you will only get a voltage reading when the contactor is active, (contacts pulled in). The voltage should be the same across the load side (T1&T2, T1&T3 and T2&T3) as it is on the line side. (See fig 2) If one or more of the leads has substantially lower or no voltage, this is indicative of a defective contactor. Be sure to shut off the power at the breaker or buildings disconnect before replacing the contactor. 7

8 Magnetic Heater Contactors Cont. CHECKING INPUT VOLTAGE RESISTANCE CHECK: The second check, the resistance check must be done with the power to the machine off. Be sure to shut off the power at the breaker or buildings disconnect before proceeding. 1) Set the Multi-meter to the Ohms setting. The Ohms setting may be labeled Ω. Once again, be sure the power to the dryer if off. 2) Place one of the meter probes on a line side terminal and the other to the corresponding load side terminal, for example L1&T1, L2&T2, L3&T3. (See fig 1.) 3) With the probes in place, manually press the actuator on the center face of the contactor until the contactor closes and a reading appears on the meter. Repeat across all three phases. (See fig. 2.) 4) The measured value should be between Ohms. A greater value is indicative of a defective contactor, which should be replaced. Be sure to shut off the power at the breaker or buildings disconnect before replacing the contactor. METER PROBES CONTACTOR CLOSED CORRECT RANGE 8

9 Magnetic Blower Contactors: Follow the same directions as the magnetic heater contactors. Regeneration Heater: The regeneration heater should be checked for proper resistance regularly to confirm it is working properly and ensure proper desiccant rotor operation. Like any mechanical part, heaters wear over out over time. Worn or defective magnetic contactors can also damage a heater. Checking heaters, like checking contactor resistance, is done with the power off. You will need a Multi-meter to complete this test. Be sure to shut off the power at the breaker or buildings disconnect before proceeding. 1) Set the Multi-meter to the Ohms setting. The Ohms setting may be labeled Ω. Once again, be sure the power to the dryer if off. 2) Measure Ohms at the load side of the contactor (heater wire terminals) between all three leads in each combination (T1&T2, T1&T3 and T2&T3). Every combination should have the same Ohm reading, give or take 3 or 4 Ohms. If the heater is aging equally across all three elements, the Ohms values should be similar. 3) To calculate exact values, Check the chart on page 10, or use the following formula to calculate the exact values: R = Resistance V = Voltage W = Watts R = 2xVxV W Example: 2x230x kw (1500)* * Be sure to change Kilo value to its actual value. (2.4kw =2400 w) In this example, resistance is 70.5 Ohms So, in this case, you should have 70.5 Ohms across all three heater lines. Process Heater: Follow the same directions as the regeneration heater. 9

10 Heaters cont. EXAMPLE OF HEATER RESISTANCE HOPPER HEATER RESISTANCE CHART (ohms) HOPPER HEATER 230V 460V HD-15R 1.5 kw 70.5 Ω Ω HD-25R 2.4 kw 44.1 Ω Ω HD-50R 2.4 kw 44.1 Ω Ω HD-75R 3.3 kw 32.1 Ω Ω HD-100R 3.3 kw 32.1 Ω Ω HD-150R 4.0 kw 26.5 Ω Ω HD-200R 4.0 kw 26.5 Ω Ω HD-250R 3.0 kw 35.3 Ω Ω Dual Element 3.0 kw 35.3 Ω Ω HD-300R 3.0 kw 35.3 Ω Ω Dual Element 3.0 kw 35.3 Ω Ω HD-15RDH 2.1 kw 50.4 Ω Ω HD-25RDH 4.0 kw 26.5 Ω Ω HD-50RDH 4.0 kw 26.5 Ω Ω HD-75RDH 6.0 kw 17.6 Ω 70.5 Ω HD-100RDH 6.0 kw 17.6 Ω 70.5 Ω HD-150RDH 3.9 kw 26.6 Ω Ω Dual Element 3.9 kw 26.6 Ω Ω HD-200RDH 3.9 kw 26.6 Ω Ω Dual Element 3.9 kw 26.6 Ω Ω HD-250RDH 6.2 kw 17.1 Ω 68.3 Ω Dual Element 6.2 kw 17.1 Ω 68.3 Ω HD-300RDH 6.2 kw 17.1 Ω 68.3 Ω Dual Element 6.2 kw 17.1 Ω 68.3 Ω 10

11 Desiccant Rotor: The desiccant rotor should be checked for proper operation on a regular basis. DMZ-40 MODELS The desiccant rotor indexes 1 ¼ every 60 seconds. This is controlled by a circuit board located inside the electrical panel. Adjusting the two small potentiometers, labeled VR-1 and VR-2 located on the circuit board labeled MTR-5 can control the time and distance. VR-1 controls the off time between indexes. VR-2 controls the on time the rotor moves at each index. If necessary, each can be adjusted with a very small turn of the appropriate switch. On VR-1, clockwise will increase the time between indexes; counterclockwise will decrease the time between indexes. On VR-2, clockwise will increase the distance of travel at each index; counterclockwise will decrease the distance of travel at each index. The index time and distance should only be set to the factory setting of 1 ¼ every 60 seconds. Altering these settings will compromise proper material drying, as well as cause un-necessary wear to the desiccant rotor components. VR-2 VR-1 MTR-5 CIRCUIT BOARD ADJUSTED TO 1 ¼ DMZ MODELS The desiccant rotor on the DMZ models, unlike the DMZ-40, does not index, but instead turns at three revolutions per hour by means of a geared motor. This motor is geared at 1 to and is controlled by either a magnetic contactor or relay located inside the electrical panel. No adjusted is necessary or even possible with this motor. Simply, confirm that the rotor is turning properly. 11

12 Desiccant Rotor cont. ROTOR SPRING TENSION Check to make sure that the tension springs on the desiccant rotor top cover are tensioned properly. Improperly tensioned springs can result in premature rotor wear and can cause air leaks, which in turn can effect dryer performance. On DMZ-40 to 120 models, the distance between the washers should be 27mm. On DMZ 170 and 240 models, the distance between the washer should be 23mm. Check this spacing and adjust as necessary by tightening or loosening the nut on top of the spring. These springs are factory set and should not need to be adjusted under normal circumstances, however is good to check the occasionally. 27mm 23mm DMZ DMZ Cabinet Interior: Keep the interior of the DMZ as well as the electrical panel clean and free of dust. Remove a side panel and using compressed air, blow out dust, fines, pellets and other foreign matter from inside of the DMZ 1) Pay particular attention to the blowers and around the desiccant rotor. The backs of the blowers tend to gather lots of dirt, impeding the cooling abilities of the cooling fan. This can result in higher amp draw and shortened motor life. 2) Keep the exterior of the desiccant rotor as clean as possible. The desiccant rotor rides on surfaces coated with Teflon, which are subject to wear. Keeping the inside of the cabinet clean will ensure long life of interior components. 3) Blow out the electrical panel to remove dust and other contaminants that could get inside the magnetic contactors and other components. 12

13 ALARMS The following is a list of alarms that may be encountered on the DMZ controller. There are two types of controllers used on Matsui DMZ Dryers. The MR-1200 was used from introduction until about 1998 at which time it was replaced by the more advanced MR Both controllers basically work the same way, however the newer MR-2200 is a little more sophisticated in that it has more alarm functions. We ll cover the alarms common to both controllers first, and those, which are specific to each Controller, last. CONTROLLERS MR-1200 CONTROLLER MR-2200 CONTROLLER CONTROLLER ALARM PANELS MR-1200 ALARMS MR-2200 ALARMS 13

14 Reverse: This alarm, common to both controllers, indicates a problem with the power supply coming into the dryer. All Matsui equipment is phased A-B-C. (R- Red, S-White, T-Black). If this alarm lights, look for and correct the following: Incoming power phase is reversed. Change incoming power to correct A-B-C phase Single Phase. This means that one of the three phases is out, either by loose connection at the dryer, or at the disconnect feeding the DMZ. Check all electrical connections. Occasionally, there is a problem with incoming plant voltage, supplied by the Power Company. If you are certain the phases are correct, contact your power supplier and have them check your plant voltage. If all of the above items check out, it is possible there is an internal problem with the controller. Contact Matsui Service in the event all the above checks out. Overload: The overload alarm on the MR-1200, or the drying or regeneration overload alarms on the MR-2200 are tripped by the thermal relay, which is located on the bottom of each of the drying and regeneration blower magnetic contactors. When the thermal relay or OCR as we ll refer to it, sensing high amperage draw from either blower, trips and shuts down the blower to prevent the blower from being damaged. Coincidentally, the corresponding overload alarm will light on the Controller. On models equipped with MR-1200 controllers, if the OCR senses high amperage, the OCR will trip, the alarm will sound, the blowers and heaters will shut off, but power to the panel will stay on. On models equipped with MR-2200 Controllers, the dryer is equipped with a shunt type circuit breaker which, when an overload has been sensed, will not only sound the alarm turn off the blowers and heaters, it will trip the circuit breaker stopping power to the entire machine. If this alarm lights, look for and correct the following: The OCR is not set to the correct amperage setting. Refer to the motor nameplate for the correct maximum ampere setting for the voltage of the blower. Remember to set the OCR about 10% higher then the maximum ampere rating of the blower. Blower plugged or jammed. The blower may be jammed or plugged with a foreign object sucked in from the outside. If the filter has not been put on properly, or the filter removed with the blowers running, material could have been sucked in. Disconnect the power and remove the back cover from the blower. Checks to make sure the blower turns freely and remove any obstruction. Check wiring. Check to make sure there are no loose, shorted or disconnected wires in the blower junction boxes. Disconnect the power and repair any evident wiring problems. Contact Matsui Service in the event that all of the above checks out. 14

15 Filter: The filter alarm is an optional alarm that works only if the optional filter clog alarm has been installed. If the filter clog alarm has been installed, and the alarm is sounding, check for the following: Filters are dirty. In the event the filter Alarm sounds, the primary cause is that the alarm is just doing its job, and alerting of a clogged filter. If the filter alarm sounds it usually means the filters are beyond cleaning with compressed air. Change the filters with the appropriate filter Sensors misadjusted. Occasionally, even when new filters have been installed, the filter alarm will still sound. In this case, it is possible to adjust the sensitivity of the filter clog sensors. Open the electrical panel door and look for the sensors on the left side wall. There is a small adjustment screw located on each sensor. Turning the screw counterclockwise decreases sensitivity, turning the screw clockwise increases sensitivity. With new filters installed, decrease the sensitivity until the alarm just turns off. Now the sensors should be adjusted properly. On MR-1200 models, the alarm will clear after the problem has been corrected. On MR-2200 models, press the Alarm Reset button after the problem has been corrected. Sensor: This alarm will sound if one of the thermocouples becomes disconnected or damaged. If this alarm sounds, machine operation will stop and the letters FFFF will appear in the PV window on the controller. Check for thermocouple damage. Either the process thermocouple (on the hopper heater tank) or the regeneration thermocouple has become damaged and needs to be replaced. Check for loose wiring. Thermocouple wires inside the dryer s electrical panel may have come loose. Check the terminals at the bottom of the controller and elsewhere in the panel. Shut down the power to the dryer and correct the problem. Once the problem is corrected the alarm will clear. H EST (Highest Alarm): This alarm sounds when the drying air temperature goes higher than the set process temp plus the set Highest temp. For example, if you have a process set temp of 200 F and a Highest setting of 40 F, if, for whatever reason the actual process temp rises past 240 F, the highest alarm will sound. As the temp drops back down below 240 F the alarm will turn itself off. This alarm is to alert the operator of a potential problem before it becomes a problem. The setting value for the highest Alarm is set using the SV button. There are several reasons for the highest Alarm to sound, check for the following: Cont. 15

16 H EST (Highest Alarm) cont. Initial warm-up. Occasionally, and very rarely, this alarm will sound on the initial start-up of the dryer, especially if the machine is cold and the hopper is empty. This however is very rare and should not happen under normal circumstances. Insufficient air flow. Filters have become dirty impeding airflow over the process or regeneration Heaters. Clean or if needed, change the filters. Check to make sure the blowers are turning properly and are not plugged with foreign matter that would impede airflow. Wrong or to high incoming voltage. If a 230-volt machine is being run on 460 volts, or the incoming plant voltage is to high, this may cause the heaters to overshoot the set value and cause a highest Alarm. If this happens, correcting the voltage problem will correct the alarm. Defective or inoperative blower contactor. Check to make sure that the blower magnetic contactors inside the electrical panel are activated, and that there is proper voltage going through them. (See pg. 9). Replace if necessary. Defective Heater Contactor. Check to make sure that the heater magnetic contactor is not stuck in the on position. The heater contactor should only be activated when the appropriate heater lights, either Dry or Regen are lit on the Controller. If neither the DRY or REGEN heater lights are lit on the Controller, and one of the heater contactors is pulled in, this may signal a defective contactor. Check to make sure there is no voltage (100 V) at the coil of the pulled in contactor. If no voltage is present, the Contactor is defective. If voltage is present, contact the Matsui Service Dept. for help. Once the problem is corrected, the H EST alarm should clear itself. If the H EST alarm fails to clear itself, shut off the dryer and turn off the incoming power, either at the plant disconnect, or the dryer circuit breaker, for 15 seconds. Restoring power should then clear the alarm. L EST (Lowest Alarm): This alarm sounds when the drying air temperature goes lower than the set process temp minus the set lowest temp. For example, if you have a process set temp of 200 F and a lowest setting of 40 F, if, for whatever reason the actual process temp drops below 160 F, the lowest alarm will sound. As the temp rises back up to 200 F the alarm will turn itself off. This alarm is to alert the operator of a potential problem before it becomes a problem. The setting value for the lowest Alarm is set using the SV button. There are several reasons for the lowest Alarm to sound, check for the following: Cont. 16

17 L EST (Lowest Alarm) cont. Defective heater contactor. Check to make sure that the heater magnetic contactor is not stuck in the off position. The Heater contactor should be activated when the appropriate HEATER lights, either DRY or REGEN are lit on the Controller. If either the DRY or REGEN heater lights are lit on the controller, and the corresponding heater contactor is not pulled in, this may signal a defective contactor. Check to make sure there is voltage (100 V) at the coil of the suspect contactor. If voltage is present, and the contactor will not pull in, the contactor is defective. If voltage is not present, contact the Matsui Service Dept. for help. Defective Heater. If a defective magnetic contactor is broken for two long, eventually, the corresponding heater will burn out. In this case, even if the magnetic contactor is replaced, the heater will still not come up to temp. Replacing the heater is the only remedy in this case. See pg. 9 or directions for checking a heater. Once the problem is corrected, the L EST alarm should clear itself. If the L EST alarm fails to clear itself, shut off the dryer and turn off the incoming power, either at the plant disconnect, or the dryer Circuit Breaker, for 15 seconds. Restoring power should then clear the alarm. Overheat: The overheat alarm on the MR-1200, or the drying or regeneration overheat alarms on the MR-2200 are tripped by an overheat sensor, which are located on the to of each of the drying and regeneration Heater Tanks. When the overheat sensor senses heat higher than the set heat value, the overheat sensor trips and shut down the dryer. There are two types of overheat sensors used on DMZ Dryers: An earlier fixed version generally used with the MR-1200 equipped dryers and a newer adjustable style generally used with the MR-2200 equipped dryers. It is possible to have the older, non-adjustable style with an MR-2200 controller and vice-versa. The fixed style is designed to trip when the heater temp reaches 491 F (255 C). The newer adjustable style is generally set at 40 F over the process set point. On models equipped with MR-1200 controllers, if the overheat sensor senses high heat, the sensor will trip, the alarm will sound and the blowers and heaters will shut off, but power to the panel will stay on. On models equipped with MR-2200 Controllers, the dryer is equipped with a shunt type circuit breaker which, when an overheat has been sensed, will not only sound the alarm turn off the blowers and heaters, it will trip the circuit breaker stopping power to the entire machine. If this alarm lights, look for and correct the following: Cont. 17

18 Overheat cont. Insufficient air flow. Filters have become dirty impeding airflow over the process or regeneration heaters. Clean or if needed, change the filters. Check to make sure the blowers are turning properly and are not plugged with foreign matter that would impede airflow. Defective or inoperative Blower Contactor. Check to make sure that the blower magnetic contactors inside the electrical panel are activated, and that there is proper voltage going through them. (See pg. 9). Replace if necessary. Defective Heater Contactor. Check to make sure that the heater magnetic contactor is not stuck in the on position. The heater contactor should only be activated when the appropriate HEATER lights, either DRY or REGEN are lit on the Controller. If neither the DRY or REGEN heater lights are lit on the controller, and one of the heater contactors is pulled in, this may signal a defective contactor. Check to make sure there is no voltage (100 V) at the coil of the pulled in contactor. If no voltage is present, the contactor is defective. If voltage is present, contact the Matsui Service Dept. for help. Overheat Sensor adjustment. On models with adjustable overheat sensors on the drying hopper, be sure the sensor is adjusted high enough for the process temperature that is inputted in the controller. For example, if the drying set point is 250 F and the overheat sensor is adjusted to 240 F, the overheat alarm will trip. Adjust the overheat sensor to about F above the drying set temperature. Defective Overheat Sensor. Occasionally, an overheat sensor, especially the non-adjustable type on the drying hopper, will go bad with age. While this is rare, the only remedy is to replace the overheat sensor. This sensor is located inside the top of the hopper heater tank. To change the sensor, remove the 4 bolts attaching the hose manifold to the top of the heater tank and remove the manifold. Inside you will see the sensor, with two wires, held down by two small screws. Once the problem is corrected, turn off the breaker, if it hasn t already tripped, then turn the breaker back on to clear the alarm. Heater (MR-2200 only): This alarm activates if a defect is sensed in either the process or regeneration heaters. If this alarm sounds, troubleshoot the heater circuit and repair the problem. Once the repair is made, repower the dryer and the alarm should be cleared. Material Low: This is an optional alarm that will only work if the low level alarm kit is installed. This will alarm if material in the hopper drops below the paddle of the level switch. Dew Point: This alarm is not used and will not light. 18

19 TROUBLESHOOTING Checkpoints and remedies are described on the following pages. Refer to this point before seeking repair advice from the Matsui Service Department WARNING: Working around electricity can be extremely dangerous. Electrical service and troubleshooting should only be performed by those with knowledge of electrical circuits and proper training in electrical repair. Anyone unfamiliar with electrical repair should not attempt these repairs. CAUTION Before doing any inspections, set the RUN-STOP switch to the STOP position and allow the dryer to complete it s cool down cycle before proceeding. Always turn off power at the DMZ circuit breaker or plant disconnect before proceeding with repairs. As always use extreme caution when working on or around live electrical components to avoid injury or death. TROUBLESHOOTING ITEM: DESCRIPTION: PAGE Blower Blower does not turn on 20 Blower Overload Relays Trip 20 Blower air flow is low 21 Drying Temperature Drying temperature changes rapidly 21 Drying temperature highest / lowest alarm 21 Drying temperature does not go up / down 22 Inadequate drying Moisture content of resin doesn t go down 22 Temperature Controller PV or SV indicator does not display 22 19

20 TROUBLESHOOTING Blower does not turn on: 1) Is the plant disconnect and DMZ circuit breaker on? No Turn on disconnect or breaker 2) Do the temperature controller PV and SV indicators light? No Check and replace fuse, check power connections 3) When the RUN switch is pushed, do the blower indicator lights on the temperature controller light? No Check to make sure no value is entered in the TIMER mode. 4) When the RUN switch is pushed, do the blower contactors activate? No Check the contactor coil for 100v. If present, replace magnetic contactor. If no voltage, contact Matsui Service 5) Is the overload relay tripped? No There should be an alarm sounding, but just in case Its not, reset the overload 6) Is there line voltage at the overload relay when the contactor is activated? No Follow the Maintenance Instructions and check the contactor. If contactor checks out, replace overload relay. 7) Is there line voltage at the blower? No Check for loose or shorted wires. Contact Matsui Service. Blower overload relay trips: 1) Is the overload relay set to the proper amp setting? No Check corresponding blower for proper amp setting and reset. 2) Do the blowers turn freely? No Check for and clear any obstructions inside the blower. 3) Is the magnetic contactor working properly? No Replace contactor and reset overload relay Contact Matsui Service 20

21 TROUBLESHOOTING Blower airflow is low: 1) Have new filters been installed? No Install new filters. 2) Are the hoses, both inside and outside of the dryer in good condition and free from kinks, holes and crushing? No Replace hoses with the proper type hose. 3) Are the blowers free from clogging? No Remove intake and exhaust ports from blower and clear any plug or clogging Drying temperature changes rapidly: 1) Have new filters been installed? No Install new filters 2) Is the thermocouple in good condition and in the right position? No Replace or adjust the thermocouple 3) Is the polarity of the thermocouple correct? No Correct thermocouple polarity Drying temperature highest or lowest alarm: 1) Is dryer through initial warm-up? No Allow dryer to complete its warm-up cycle and allow the temperature to stabilize. 2) Have new filters been installed? No Install new filters 3) Is the incoming (plant) voltage correct for the unit? No Correct the voltage problem 4) Are the blowers and blower contactors working properly? No- Correct the problem with a new contactor or Repair the blower problem. 5) Is the thermocouple in good condition and in the right position? No Replace or adjust the thermocouple 21

22 TROUBLESHOOTING Drying temperature does not go up or down: 1) Are the heater contactors activated when the controller is calling for heat, and off when it s not? No Check voltage at the coil of the contactor as well as the output of the controller for proper operation. Replace contactor or service controller as necessary. 2) Is the SENSOR alarm on the controller flashing? No Check for proper thermocouple wiring or replace defective thermocouple. 3) Are the hoses, both inside and outside of the dryer in good condition and free from kinks, holes or crushing? No Replace hoses with proper type hoses. Moisture content of resin does not go down: 1) Is the process temperature set to the correct setting? No Change to minimum of 130 F (55 C) 2) Have new filters been installed? No Install new filters 3) Is there water flowing to the aftercooler No Make sure the strainer is clean and the water is on. 4) Are the hoses, both inside and outside of the dryer in good condition and free from kinks, holes and crushing? No Replace hoses with proper type hoses. 5) Are the heaters and magnetic contactors working properly? PV or SV indicator does not display? No- inspect and replace following directions in Maintenance section. 1) Is the power disconnect and the DMZ circuit breaker on? No- Turn on the power supply 2) Check the glass fuse (F-1) inside the control panel and replace if necessary. 22

23 FREQUENTLY ASKED SERVICE QUESTIONS Following are a few of the most common service problems encountered by our Service Personnel, and checkpoints and remedies for each problem. My Dew Point is high and I ve got wet plastic. What s wrong? Here are the usual culprits; 1) Is the process temperature set above 130 F (55 )? No Change to at least 130 F (55 C). 2) Is the regeneration temperature of 446 F (230 C) No Follow Maintenance Description and check regeneration heater and contactor, replace as needed. 3) Is the regeneration exhaust strong? As strong as when the filter s off? No Change the regeneration filter. 4) Is there water flowing to the aftercooler? No Clean the strainer and turn the water on. 5) Is the desiccant rotor turning or indexing correctly? No Adjust timing Card (DMZ-40) or check gear motor and contactor for proper operation and repair as needed. 6) Are the drying hoses free from leaks, cuts, and wear or crush damage? No Replace the damaged hoses. Patching with duct tape doesn t count! Check the hoses inside the dryer also. 7) Is the drying hopper thermocouple in good shape and properly adjusted? No If it s bent or damaged replace it! If it s out of adjustment adjust it per the directions in the Maintenance section 8) Has the process filter been changed recently? No If it s blown out and still seems dirty, when in doubt, install a new filter! 9) Is the process temperature reaching set point? No Follow Maintenance Description and check process heater and contactor, replace as needed. 10) Is the diffuser cone inside the hopper properly installed and in good order? No Install or replace the diffuser cone 23

24 FREQUENTLY ASKED SERVICE QUESTIONS I just changed my Regeneration Contactor and filter. Why is there smoke coming from the Regeneration exhaust port? Here s why: The main purpose of the regeneration system is to burn moisture and contaminants, like gases and waxes given off from the drying plastic pellets, from the desiccant rotor. To do this properly, high heat (446 F / 230 C), proper rotor turning or indexing and good airflow are required. If either the heat, rotor turning or airflow is compromised, like when a contactor goes bad, or a filter is clogged, the result will be a build-up of contaminants inside the desiccant rotor. Once correct heat, indexing and airflow are restored, the contaminants are heated and blown from the rotor, occasionally resulting in smoke from the regeneration exhaust. Generally, this smoking will last 1 to 3 hours, and other than being a nuisance, poses no great problems. I m trying to dry material at 100 F, but my dryer won t go below 128 F. Why? Here s why: The minimum guaranteed drying temperature of DMZ dryers is 130 F (55 C). The reason for this is, the regeneration cycle heats the desiccant rotor with 446 F (230 C) heat, to burn off moisture and contaminants. After the Desiccant Rotor passes through the regeneration cycle, it turns through a cool down zone. This zone cools down the desiccant rotor to a temperature that will optimize its absorption of moisture in the process cycle. After going through the cool down zone, the desiccant rotor is still very warm, hence any air passing through it as it moves through the process air absorption zone, will pick up this surplus heat and, even if the process heater isn t on, the air will still get heated. Although 130 F is the minimum guaranteed drying temperature, occasionally a dryer will be able to get lower than that temp, even as low as 120 F (48 C), but this is unusual and depends on ambient temperature and the temperature of the air returning from the drying hopper. Why is there black dust under the heater contactors inside the electrical panel? Here s why: The magnetic contactors have carbon contacts that wear with each on / off cycle, causing the dust. A lot of black dust is a sure sign that those contactors are probably old and ready for a change. Follow the Maintenance Directions and check the contactors. Blow the dust out of the cabinet with compressed air. 24

25 FREQUENTLY ASKED SERVICE QUESTIONS The process filter on my DMZ looks just like the air cleaner in my wife s car. Why do I need to buy Matsui s filters? Here s why: Although they may look the same, there s a vast difference between a car s air cleaner and a Matsui filter. First off, the filter media in the Matsui filter is considerably finer, designed to take out even the minutest particle of dust. This is necessary to ensure long life of the desiccant rotor, as well as the Teflon coated rotor housing. Secondly, the gasket material is designed not only to help seal dust from the rotor, but it is a non-porous material designed for easy, complete cleaning to prevent cross-contamination during material changes. Lastly, it is supplies with a rubber washer to completely seal the filter. That s why it s important to use the correct Matsui filter and washer for each DMZ dryer. I ve had my DMZ for about three years now, I ll need to change my desiccant soon, right? Wrong. Here s why: Unlike bed type dryers, where the desiccant beads need to be changed frequently, Matsui s unique rotor design, under normal circumstances, and with regular maintenance, will last for well over ten years without replacement. Due to the constant regeneration cycle of the Matsui DMZ, the rotor absorbs and dries uniformly, resulting in a lower, stable dew point and increased desiccant life. I ve got a Matsui installed dew point meter on my DMZ. Why is it installed on the supply air to the hopper, rather than the return? Here s why: A dew point meter is an excellent tool for monitoring the performance of a dryer. If the DMZ is properly maintained and serviced, a dew point of -40 F or lower can be maintained. Matsui installs their dew point meter on the supply side air, to monitor the drying ability of the DMZ. If a dew point meter is installed in the return air, each time new material is added, the dew point could fluctuated with the influx of wet air, thus giving a false reading on the moisture in the material. By checking the dew point on the supply side, it is easier to tell if there is a problem with the dryer. If the air going to the hopper is as dry as possible, then drying of the plastic resin pellets should be complete. If a dew point on the supply side rises, it is evidence of a service problem with the dryer that needs to be addressed. 25

26 COMMON SPARE PARTS PART: MODEL: PART NUMBER: REGENERATION FILTER DMZ 40 MXF P A10978 REGENERATION FILTER DMZ MXF-204P AA0516 REGENERATION FILTER DMZ AS100 A04749 PROCESS FILTER DMZ MXF-16-SP A40514 PROCESS FILTER DMZ AS250P A16401 PROCESS FILTER DMZ A A30920 BLOWER CONTACTOR SC-03 AA0307 HEATER CONTACTOR SC-0Y AA0315 HEATER CONTACTOR SC-4-1 AA0313 HEATER CONTACTOR SC-1-N AA0311 THERMOCOUPLE-HOPPER K3.2X100X1000 AA1524 THERMOCOUPLE-REGENERATION K3.2X100X4000 AA1527 FILTER CAN GASKET DMZ 40~120 AA0593 FILTER CAN GASKET DMZ 170 / 240 AA0594 REGENERATION HEATER DMZ kw 230 VOLT AA0816 REGENERATION HEATER DMZ kw 460 VOLT AA0817 REGENERATION HEATER DMZ kw 230 VOLT AA0826 REGENERATION HEATER DMZ kw 460 VOLT AA0827 REGENERATION HEATER DMZ kw 230 VOLT AA0836 REGENERATION HEATER DMZ kw 460 VOLT AA0838 REGENERATION HEATER DMZ kw 230 VOLT AA0848 REGENERATION HEATER DMZ kw 460 VOLT AA0850 REGENERATION HEATER DMZ kw 230 VOLT AA0854 REGENERATION HEATER DMZ kw 460 VOLT AA0857 HOPPER HEATER 1.5 kw 230 VOLT AA0816 HOPPER HEATER 1.5 kw 460 VOLT AA0817 HOPPER HEATER 2.1 kw 230 VOLT AA0788 HOPPER HEATER 2.1 kw 460 VOLT AA0789 HOPPER HEATER 2.4 kw 230 VOLT AA0791 HOPPER HEATER 2.4 kw 460 VOLT AA0792 HOPPER HEATER 3.3 kw 230 VOLT AA0793 HOPPER HEATER 3.3 kw 460 VOLT AA0794 HOPPER HEATER (HD-25 / 50 DH) 4.0 kw 230 VOLT AA0798 HOPPER HEATER (HD-25 / 50 DH) 4.0 kw 460 VOLT AA0800 HOPPER HEATER (HD-150 / 200 R) 4.0 kw 230 VOLT AA0799 HOPPER HEATER (HD-150 / 200 R) 4.0 kw 460 VOLT AA0801 HOPPER HEATER 6.0 kw 230 VOLT AA0806 HOPPER HEATER 6.0 kw 460 VOLT AA0808 HOPPER HEATER 7.8 kw 230 VOLT AA0812 HOPPER HEATER 7.8 kw 460 VOLT AA0813 HOPPER HEATER 12.4 kw 230 V AA0783 HOPPER HEATER 12.4 kw 460 V AA

27 Your Matsui Service team thanks you for using our products. If you ever have any additional questions, please call our North American Headquarters at (847) Monday ~ Friday, 8 a.m. ~ 5 p.m. CST. Also, be sure to look at our new troubleshooting section on-line at for any after- business hour needs. 27

28 DMZ 40 CIRCUIT BOARD STYLES (A & B) DESICCANT ROTOR ADJUSTMENT VR2- On Time 0.1~ 1 sec. Factory set = 1 ¼ VR1- Off Time 0.6 ~115 sec. Factory set = 60 sec MTR-5 MTR-5 A-230v CN4-12VDC OUTPUT - B-460v Relay 1 N/C Contacts + CN5 Dry Contacts 200V N/O Contacts 100V 0V (Common) CN1 100 / 200 VAC

29 How to disassemble a Desiccant Rotor for Inspection / Cleaning Refer to the exploded view for any ( ) info. Removing the Rotor for working on a workbench. 1. Shut down dryer, allowing cooling mode to cool the rotor sufficiently (Usually about 2 hours for natural cooling). 2. Turn off power and unplug the dryer. 3. Prepare a lay-down area for all parts- screws, bolts, nuts, etc. in order to keep them readily available during re-assembly. Also, prepare a clean cloth lay-down to rest the rotor parts on. 3. Remove both side panels in order to access the Rotor. 4. Remove all Orange hoses from all Hose Ports (#19, 20, 21, 22) connected to the Desiccant Rotor. 5. Remove the bolts connecting the Mounting Bracket (#7) from the dryer frame. 6. Remove the 4 bolts for the Gear Motor (#13) from underneath the Rotor. Upon doing this the Motor base (#12) and the shaft sleeve (#11) will also loosen. 7. Remove the 3 bolts on the Bottom cover (#2). 8. Make a mental note of the direction of the manifolds for re-assembly! 9. Using one person on each side of the Rotor, lift the rotor carefully and place it on a sturdy workbench for further disassembly. Disassembling the Rotor 10. Remove the high flange bearing collar (#8) using a small hex-head wrench. 11Loosen the nuts holding the Mounting bracket (#7) and lift the bracket off. 12. Loosen the nuts (#18) above the springs and remove the washers and springs off of the bolt-rods (#15). 13. Pick any one of two (shorter) bolt-rods and remove it completely. 14. Grab the Top Cover (#1) and remove it by lifting it off of the upper Spacer (#3- upper). 15. Remove the upper Spacer (#3). TIP: This will be adhered to the rotor due to the silicon gasket sticking, due to heat over time. There is NO GLUE holding it, only strong sticking occurs. In this case, gently tap the side of the spacer with a plastic mallet until the adhesion loosens. Lift up and remove the upper spacer. 16. Lift up the entire Rotor (#5) from the bottom cover. If the Shaft (#6) and lower Spacer (#3-lower) remain attached, it is normal. (If they don t stick it is even better.) 17. Place the rotor on several layers of bubble wrap horizontally (so that the shaft is horizontal. 18. Remove the shaft (#6) by sliding it out of the bottom spacer (#3-lower). Tap the top of the shaft with a plastic mallet while holding the bottom of the shaft to loosen, if necessary. Pay attention to the (2) alignment cotter-pins inserted into the shaft s side. Do not lose them! 19. Remove the bottom spacer (#3-lower) the same manner as in step Place the rotor on a layer of bubble wrap (flat face on bubble wrap).