Traditional Boundary Scheme Works Guidelines NORTH YORK MOORS NATIONAL PARK AUTHORITY. Dry Stone Walling

Transcription

1 Traditional Boundary Scheme Works Guidelines North York Moors National Park Authority Dry Stone Walling There is great variation in the dimensions and style of drystone walls in the North York Moors National Park. The majority of these variations are based on the type of stone locally available, the purpose of the wall and the period in which it was built. To conserve walls as features of historic and landscape interest it is important to maintain their local character so the repair or rebuilding of walls should normally be carried out as close as possible to the original style. Stone There is considerable range in the type of stone occurring throughout the National Park. Where there is insufficient stone on site for the repair or rebuilding of a wall it is essential that any imported stone is of the same geological type as the existing walls in the area. If additional stone is needed to complete walling work the source of the stone must be agreed with the Authority in writing before work starts. If it is agreed that derelict walls can be used as a source of stone the foundation stones must be left in situ as a record of the historic feature. Footings Footings are the oldest undisturbed section of a wall, some may be mediaeval or even older. For this reason, when rebuilding an existing wall, the original footings should always be retained if they are of good quality. However, old footings should be carefully checked and replaced if they are insecure, out of line, tilted or if the stone has decayed. New footings should be dug into the ground to a depth sufficient to provide a firm and level sub-surface, usually cm (6"-12"). With double walls the gap between the two footings should be packed with irregular stones. On sloping ground the footings should be stepped into the slope so that their surfaces are level rather than running with the slope of the ground. In general the largest stones should be used for the footings. These should reach at least a third of the way across the wall and project 5-10 cm (2"-4") beyond the base of each face of the wall. Facing stones NORTH YORK MOORS NATIONAL PARK AUTHORITY In general the largest stones should be used at the bottom of the wall grading to the smaller stones at the top. Except where the style of the wall is 'random' or uncoursed, facing stones should be laid in even horizontal courses, even on sloping ground. Walls should have an even batter (taper inward from bottom to top), except with single faced walls and those running across a slope. Each facing stone should touch its neighbour and each joint between stones must be crossed by the stone above so there are no vertical breaks. Stones should be placed with their longest dimension running into the wall rather than along it. Stones must not slope into the wall. With double skinned walls through-stones should be used regularly, ideally at 0.5 m (1'6") and 1 m (3') above ground level and at 90 cm (1 yard) spacings. Through-stones must be at least the full width of the wall and may protrude slightly from the wall. Wedges should not be used to secure stones on the outside of double skinned walls. Hearting between the two skins of a double wall should consist of small stones packed in as the courses are built. Soil or other fine material should not be used as it will wash out Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 1 of 15

2 Coping The top of the wall should be built to an even height and coping stones should cover the full width of the wall. They must be carefully placed so they pack tightly together and provide weight onto every top facing stone. All coping stones on a wall should be laid at the same angle, i.e. either flat, angled or vertical, and should not project beyond the faces of the wall. Wallheads Wallheads should be built of alternate courses of ties (i.e. through stones) and runners (long stones placed in line with the wall). The end coping stone must be large and heavy enough to support the rest of the coping. All wallheads should be free standing and should not lean on trees, gate posts or other structures. Retaining Walls These are built on the face of a bank to prevent soil moving down slope. A retaining wall should be built in the same way as a free standing double skinned wall. The inner face should be vertical and need not be even but the outer face should taper as normal. Site Clearance All surplus stone must be removed from the site on completion of the wall. Fencing Dry Stone Walls Once a wall has been repaired and rebuilt topwiring or topnetting may be required in order to heighten the wall and make it stockproof. There are several designs which can be used depending on the type of stock, whether the wall needs to be stockproof from both sides and the ease at which posts can be knocked in to the ground. Wallside wire This involves a single or double strand of barbed wire set parallel to the wall top (see Figure 1). Barbed wire should be properly strained to the outside of the posts and stakes. The number of strands of wire will depend on the condition of the wall. The top line of wire should be set at the height of the wall and any additional lines set below. Straining posts are to be dug in to a depth of at least 90 cm (3') and properly firmed and strutted. Strainers can be 150 m apart but should be used at all sharp changes of direction and gradient. Intermediate stakes should be driven into the ground to a minimum depth of 55 cm (21") at approximately 4 m (14') intervals. Posts and stakes should be cm away from the line of the wall. Figure Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 2 of 15

3 Topwire This will increase the height of the wall. Where posts can be knocked into the ground straining posts may be used as with a wallside wire. Intermediate posts should be driven into the ground at a slight angle and at approximately 4 m (14') intervals. Posts can be alternated from one side of the wall to the other in a zigzag formation to maximise protection from both sides of the wall. Where the ground is too hard to knock the posts into the ground the posts should be attached to the wall. This can be achieved by placing the stake against the wall and threading two wires through the wall around the post and back again, and then tightening with a batten (see Figure 2). Figure 2 In most situations 2 strands of wire will be adequate, the first strand should be 10 cm (4") above the wall top with the second wire 15 cm (6") above the first. The wire should be properly strained and stapled to the outside of the posts and stakes. Topnetting With traditionally low walls it may be necessary to erect a half net or hedge bottom net instead of wire. This will be a greater deterrent for jumping sheep and will stop animals pushing through the wire if they do get onto the wall top. General On all fences staples must not be driven fully home on intermediate posts in order to allow future repair and retensioning work. They are to be positioned diagonally to the grain of the wood. Fencing should not be strained or attached to gate posts, trees, shrubs or any other structures. Take care when knocking posts into the ground or attaching them to the wall that you do not weaken or damage the wall in any way. Materials TIMBER POSTS must be round peeled softwood (not spruce) and pressure tanalised to BS 4072, or timber of equivalent quality and durability. Minimum specifications: strainer posts 120 mm (4-5") top diameter; intermediate stakes 75 mm (3") top diameter. The length of posts and stakes will depend on the fence design but approximately 2 m (7 ft). WIRE must comply to BS 4102 and galvanisign to BS 443. Either (4 mm) 8 swg plain mild steel galvanised wire or double strand (2.5mm) 12.5 swg mild steel galvanised 4 point barbed wire. TOPNET should be a half net or hedge bottom net galvanised net ( ). STAPLES should be 40 mm x 4 mm (1.5 x 8 swg) galvanised wire staples Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 3 of 15

4 Care of plants Hedge Planting Ideally, hedge plants should be planted out as soon as possible after delivery and should be 'heeled in' if they are not to be planted immediately. This involves placing the roots in a pit or trench and covering with firmed soil to prevent them drying out, being frosted or being exposed to sunlight. When planting it is important to keep the plants in a plastic bag to prevent drying out and exposure to light. It is essential that the roots are kept moist and dark as even a short period of exposure could damage the plants. Hedge plants should be cm transplants of British provenance (preferably local) and should comply to British Standard Planting Planting should be carried out between October and March. Autumn planting is preferable as it usually results in better establishment although there is an increased danger of damage by rabbits and hares during the winter months. No planting should be done in very wet, frosty or snowy conditions. A suitable herbicide applied before planting (when vegetation is actively growing) will help to control weed growth. Note: all herbicides must be applied in accordance with the label recommendations. The normal method is to plant new hedges without constructing a bank but when replanting an old hedgeline the planting should follow the top of the bank, if present. The species of trees and shrubs planted should match those in surviving sections of the hedge or in adjoining hedges. If possible the new hedge should follow the former hedge line where one existed and can be identified; otherwise it should be accord with the hedgerow pattern of the immediate area. Planting can be carried out in 2 main ways; i) in a cultivated strip, approximately 60 cm (2 ft) wide by 25 cm (10 inches) deep, or ii) by cutting a slit in the ground and holding it open with a spade whilst the roots of the plant are carefully inserted and spread downwards. The plants should be set in at the same depth as they were in the nursery and the soil must be firmed well in around the roots. A double staggered row of plants produces a dense solid hedge with suitable stems for laying. This method uses 6 plants per metre (5 plants per yard), in two rows about 25 cm (10 inches) apart with plants at approximately 45 cm (18 inches) in each row. Damaged or dead shoots should be removed at planting. Trees Hedgerow trees, such as oak and crab apple, increase the landscape and wildlife value of a hedge. Trees should be planted in tree shelters for protection and increased visibility so they can be easily avoided during hedge trimming. (See Guidelines for Tree Planting.) Hedge Guards Hedge guards are used to protect plants from voles and rabbits and may be used where rabbit netting is impractical Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 4 of 15

5 It is important to establish the hedge guards firmly in the ground by the use of a stake or cane as they are otherwise liable to blow over in strong winds. Guards will need to be checked periodically to ensure that they have not fallen over. Fencing Protective fencing will be required to protect the new growth from livestock and, where appropriate, rabbits and hares. There should be a minimum of 1m left on either side of the planting (see Guidelines for Fencing). Aftercare For the first few years the hedgerow plants should be kept free of weeds by manual weeding or using suitable herbicides. Weed control and moisture conservation can also be achieved with the use of black polythene sheeting laid as a mat or mulching with bark chippings, straw or well rotted farmyard manure. The importance of weeding cannot be over emphasised (see Guidelines for Hedge Establishment). Hedge Establishment The control of weeds during the first three years after planting is essential to ensure good growth and survival of hedge plants. Weeds, in particular rank grass, can choke the hedge depriving it of light, nutrients and moisture. These guidelines aim to raise awareness of the methods available to control weeds and ensure good hedge establishment. The methods available are outlined below. Mechanical Weeding This is the least successful method and has little impact on grass competition for moisture. However, in some cases these methods are the most appropriate and are often beneficial when used in conjunction with other methods of weed control. a) Hand Weeding Weeding by hand is sometimes the only option on hedges close to open watercourses or in situations where other methods of weed control may damage the hedge plants. This can be done at any time of year but will be most beneficial from May onwards when the weeds begin to take a strong hold and compete with the hedge plants. Hand weeding may be required before other methods of control can be carried out if the weeds are very rank and the hedge plants are not clearly visible. This method can be very time consuming and may need to be repeated a number of times during the growing season. b) Strimming This method can be useful where the hedge plants are clearly visible or protected by guards. Strimming can be a relatively quick method of weed control but as with hand weeding it needs repeating to be effective. Care must be taken not to damage the growing hedge plants whilst strimming. Protective clothing should be worn by the operator. Mulches Natural mulches, such as straw, can be used to both retain moisture and suppress weed growth. Black polythene sheeting can also be used as a mat for continued weed control. Mulches are laid after planting and are especially effective for hedges planted on dry bank tops Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 5 of 15

6 Chemicals There are a range of legal requirements that apply to the use and storage of pesticides. All users are required to take all reasonable precautions to protect the health of human beings, animals and plants, to safeguard the environment and in particular to avoid pollution of water. There are a range of chemical treatments available for use on hedges the following are two widely used and relatively safe examples. Chemical users should have a Certificate of Competence and be familiar with the relevant COSHH regulations. Protective clothing should be worn by the operator and label instructions must be read and strictly adhered to. a) Propyzamide (e.g. Kerb granules) Propyzamide is a residual soil acting weedkiller for the control of certain grasses and broadleaved weeds. It is not recommended during the first season after planting as this may lead to root damage. Propyzamide should not be used near open watercourses as it can be harmful to aquatic life. The action of the chemical will be reduced if the weather remains dry after use and ideal conditions are moist, cold soils but the chemical should not be applied on top of snow or in hard frosts. Application should be carried out between October and February, but ideally before the end of January. A certain amount of manual or mechanical weeding may be required before application since large amounts of organic litter can reduce the action of the chemical. Propyzamide granules are supplied in shakers and so application is simple and can be very accurate with practice. 1 shaker pack should treat approximately 100 m of hedge. b) Glyphosate (eg. Roundup) Glyphosate is a contact acting chemical and should be used with extreme caution on new hedges. Glyphosate is only effective when applied directly to actively growing weeds (April October). It will also damage or even kill the hedge plants if they come into direct contact with the chemical so a spray shield is essential to protect from drift. Glyphosate is very effective for clearing the ground of weeds prior to hedge planting and for spot treatment of weeds around the hedge. Consultation and Advice For further general advice and information on the hedge establishment grant, contact the Conservation staff at the National Park Authority. There are a range of legal requirements that apply to the use and storage of pesticides. All users are required to take all reasonable precautions to protect the health of human beings, animals and plants, to safeguard the environment and in particular to avoid pollution of water. Further advice on the use of pesticide can be sought from a BASIS (British Agrochemical Supply Industry Scheme) Advisor. The sections on chemical use within this advice note have been developed in consultation with a BASIS registered advisor. Regenerating Derelict Hedgerows In the North York Moors hedges have been traditionally managed by laying every years to stockproof and regenerate them. If hedges are not managed then free growth of the trees will eventually result in mature trees. Continual annual trimming over a long period of time can lead to deterioration, through gaps, hollow bottoms and die back. In both cases a means of management must be considered if the hedge is to survive in the long term. This information aims to provide general guidance on the standard of work required for projects grant aided by the National Park Authority Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 6 of 15

7 Laying (i) Timing and Weather Conditions Hedge laying is generally done between October and March. In upland areas, laying is often done after mid- February to avoid the risk of hard frosts. As a general guide, the leaves should have started to turn before work begins and it is best to stop when the buds start to burst in the Spring. Avoid laying a hedge during or soon before a hard frost as stems become brittle and frost can damage plants with fresh cuts. Older stems are most susceptible to frost. (ii) Preliminary Management Siding-up may be necessary before laying. This involves side trimming of the hedge for 2-3 years before laying to produce strong leading shoots and an overall hedge height of 2 3 m (8-12 ). All old fencing material, dead wood, bramble, rose and elder present in the hedge should be removed before laying. (iii) Method of Laying Each pleacher (the living stem) should be cut cm (1-4 ) above ground level. The actual height of cut will vary depending on the thickness of the stem. The hinge should be left as thick as practical so nutrients can reach the pleacher whilst allowing it to be laid over without back splitting. Both the Yorkshire method (where the pleachers are laid close to the ground) and the Midland method (where the pleachers are laid at 25º- 45º) are acceptable. As a general rule, pleachers should be laid up the slope on inclines. Under most circumstances pleachers should be laid in one direction only but laying both ways is acceptable where there are gaps. Small gaps, less than 1 m, can be filled with trimming as dead wood provides a valuable wildlife habitat. The laid pleachers should be interwoven through stakes placed at approximately 1 m intervals. Stakes should generally be 4 5 cm (1½ 2 ) in diameter. iv) After Laying Any gaps left after laying should be planted up with young plants (see Hedge Planting Guidelines). Protective fencing will be required to protect the new growth from livestock. There should be a minimum of 1m left on either side of the laying and planting (see Fencing Guidelines). Coppicing Coppicing rejuvenates mature plants. This method is best used where the hedge is too large or too low to lay or if there is a lot of deadwood in the stems of the hedge. (i) Timing and Weather Conditions Coppicing should be carried out in the winter months during spells of mild weather Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 7 of 15

8 (ii) Method All stems should be trimmed by a clean-angled cut to a desired height (around 7.5 cm (3 ) from ground level) and angled to shed water. If the hedge plants are of a large size then they should be felled and the stumps trimmed afterwards. (iii) After Coppicing Any gaps left after coppicing should be planted up with young plants (see Hedge Planting Guidelines). Protective fencing will be required to protect the new growth from livestock. There should be a minimum of 1m left on either side between coppicing and planting (see Fencing Guidelines). Allow regrowth for 7-10 years before laying the young stems. Hedgerow Management (i) Gapping Up As a general rule it is not necessary to plant up gaps of 1 metre or less as regrowth should be sufficient to fill the gap. For larger gaps, laying across the gap will not ensure that it will close permanently so planting is necessary. Rabbit netting or quills may be required to protect the planting. Layering (when a laid pleacher is dug into the ground) is acceptable as a means of establishing new root stock in a gap. Reference should be made to the Hedge Planting Guidelines. (ii) Cutting Cutting should be carried out between the end of December and the beginning of March to avoid the breeding season of birds, and to retain winter cover and food for birds. Hedges should not be trimmed when there is a hard frost or during the spring flush. Two growing seasons should be allowed between trimming as fewer birds and small mammals are observed in intensively managed hedges. Frequent trimming can be damaging to the hedge in the long term. (iii) Shape An A shaped or topped A shaped hedge has advantages for wildlife, for the growth of the hedge and is the most effective wind-break allowing wind to pass over it with less turbulence. An A shape promotes thick growth at the hedge base which is important for food and shelter for wildlife. Tall, thick hedges with woody outgrowths are of the greatest value for breeding birds. A rectangular shape normally means that one side of the hedge is severely shaded, which will inhibit growth. (iv) Size The number of nesting or feeding bird species is strongly linked to hedgerow size. Approximately double the number of bird species occur in taller hedges (i.e. over 1.4 m (4 6 )) compared with shorter hedges. This is because they provide shelter from predators, good nesting sites and more food. Other important factors include the number of shrub species in the hedge and the proximity of other features such as ponds and woodlands Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 8 of 15

9 (v) Tools The type of hedgecutter used influences the growth of the hedge. Tractor mounted circular saw blades may be used on heavy growth and to reshape overgrown hedges. Flail hedge trimmers are the most common tools but used on heavy growth they can cause unsightly cuts, splintering the plants and causing fungal infection and die-back. Flail cutters should not be used on woody stems of over 3 years growth. Rabbit Proof Fencing NOTE: This type of fencing is not considered suitable where the fence line will have to be proof against stock as well as rabbits. In these circumstances a rabbit-proofed stock fence should be used. (See guidelines for post and wire stockproof fencing). Materials Timber, (minimum specifications). All timber to be pressure tanalith treated to BS 4072 round peeled softwood [not spruce] or timber of equivalent strength and durability. Straining Posts Struts Intermediate Stakes 2m x 15cm (7' x 5" to 6") top diameter. 2m x 10cm (7' x 4") top diameter. 1.7m x 6.5cm (5' 6" x 2-3") top diameter, pointed. Note - longer stakes may be needed in soft or uneven ground conditions. Wire all wire to comply to BS Galvanising to BS 443. Line wire Netting Staples 4 mm (8 swg) plain mild galvanised wire. 1.05m x 32mm 18 swg galvanised rabbit netting. 40 mm (1½") x 4 mm (8 swg) galvanised wire staples. Method of Erection Straining Posts are to be dug in to a depth of at least 90cm (3'), properly rammed, firmed (using stones where necessary) and strutted in the line of the fence. Two struts per post should be used on changes in direction except on acute corners of under 90 degrees where a single strut bisecting the angle of turn may be used. Posts to be at a maximum of 100 m (2 nets) intervals and at all changes of direction and sudden changes of gradient (especially at the bottom of dips/hollows). The point end of the strut should be housed approximately 7.5cm - 10cm (3-4") deep into the straining post at a height of 75cm (30") above ground level. The bottom end to be dug into the ground and to rest tight on a half stake driven into the ground or a large stone well bedded below ground level. Intermediate stakes are to be driven into the ground to a minimum depth of 55cm (21") at 2.7m (9') intervals in line with the posts. Three line wires to be properly strained and attached to the outside of the posts and stakes at 7.5cm (3"), 38cm (15") and 90cm (3') above ground level. Rabbit netting to be properly strained and stapled to the outside of the posts and stakes with the top of the netting at the same height as the top line wire. The rabbit net is to be clipped to the three line wires using galvanised or zinc clips at a maximum spacing of 90cm (3') along each wire. The bottom 15cm (6") of the Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 9 of 15

10 rabbit net is to be turned out, ie. away from the rabbit proof enclosure, and buried. Additional netting should be used in hollows to ensure that 15cm (6") is buried and that the top height of the rabbit netting is not reduced. Staples must not be driven fully home on the intermediate posts in order to allow future repair and retensioning work. They are to be positioned diagonally to the grain of the wood. Fencing should not be strained or attached to gate posts or other structures, eg. post and rail fences, bridge rails etc. Gaps between end straining posts and gate posts or other structures should be stockproofed with tanalised fence rail. In no circumstances should fencing be strained to, or attached to, trees or shrubs. Erecting posts and stakes Stockproof Fencing Fencing should be constructed in straight lines and be strained between strainer posts. Strainer posts should be used at each end of the fence and at least every 100 m (2 nets), also at all changes of direction and sudden changes of gradient (especially at the bottom of dips/hollows). Straining posts are to be dug in to a depth of at least 90 cm (3'), properly rammed, firmed (using stones where necessary) and strutted in the line of the fence. Two struts per post should be used on changes of direction except on acute corners of under 90 degrees where a single strut bisecting the angle of turn may be used. The point end of the strut should be housed approximately 7.5 cm (3") deep into the straining post at a height of 75 cm (30") above ground level. The bottom end should be dug into the ground and rest tight on a half stake driven into the ground or a large stone well bedded below ground level. Intermediate stakes are to be driven into the ground to a minimum depth of 55 cm (21") at 2.7 m (9') intervals, in line with the posts. Erecting wire Netting should be properly strained and stapled. Staples to be placed on top, 3 rd, 5 th and bottom wires of the netting on each post. Barbed wire should be properly strained and stapled to the outside of the posts and stakes 12.5 cm (5") above the top of the netting. A second barbed wire above the first may also be used (optional). Adjoining a public right of way plain wire should be used instead of barbed wire if the barbed wire may injure people or animals using the right of way. Staples must not be driven fully home on the intermediate posts in order to allow future repair and retensioning work. They are to be positioned diagonally to the grain of the wood. If necessary an additional line of barbed wire or piece of netting should be added to the bottom of the fence in hollows or dips. Alternatively gaps below the fence should be filled with stone or soil to ensure that it is fully stockproof. Fencing should not be strained or attached to gate posts, trees, shrubs or other structures. Gaps between the end straining posts and other structures should be stockproofed with tanalised fence rails Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 10 of 15

11 Materials TIMBER must be round peeled softwood (not spruce) and pressure tanalised to BS 4072, or timber of equivalent quality and durability. Straining posts Struts Intermediate stakes 2 m x 150 mm (7' x 5-6") top diameter. 2 m x 100 mm (7' x 4") top diameter. 1.7 m x 65 mm (5' 6" x 3") top diameter, pointed. Note - longer stakes may be needed in soft or uneven ground conditions. WIRE must comply to BS 4102 and be galvanised to BS 443. Line wire Barbed Wire Pig Netting Staples 4 mm (8 swg) plain mild galvanised wire. Two strand 2.5 mm (12½ swg) mild steel galvanised 4 point barbed wire. C8/80/15 galvanised pig netting. 40 mm x 4 mm (1½" x 8 swg) galvanised wire staples. Guidelines for Rabbit Proofing a Stock Fence Wire netting of the following specification should be used, galvanised 1.05 m x 32 mm (42" x 1¼") 19 swg rabbit netting. Rabbit netting should be properly strained and stapled to the outside of the posts and stakes, with the top of the netting at least 75 cm (30") above the ground, at the same height as a line wire of the pig net. The rabbit net is to be clipped to at least 3 of the pig net wires using galvanised or zinc clips at least every 90 cm (1 yd) along the fence. The bottom 15 cm (6") of the rabbit net is to be turned out, i.e. away from the rabbit proof enclosure, and buried to prevent rabbits burrowing under the netting. Additional netting should be used in hollows to ensure that 15 cm (6") is buried and that the top height of the rabbit netting is not reduced. Specifications for Furniture on Rights of Way *To be read in conjunction with Advice Note Rights of Way and Landowners/Land Manager s Responsibilities and Advice Note Authorisation of gates and stiles on Rights of Way - a s.147 Highways Act 1980 agreement" The North York Moors National Park Authority acknowledges that from time to time it is necessary for landowners/land managers of agricultural, livery or forestry landholdings to erect new structures across Public Footpaths, Public Bridleways or Restricted Byways (known collectively as Rights of Way ) in order to manage and control livestock and other animals. Landowners/land managers cannot erect any gates or stiles across Rights of Way without first obtaining consent from the National Park Authority (known as a s.147 Highways Act 1980 agreement ). Also, in 2006 a British Standard design specification for gaps, gates and stiles (BS5709) was produced and so the National Park Authority asks that any gate or stile installed adheres to these specifications which are set out below. Please contact your area Senior Ranger for further advice if necessary (contact details are listed on page Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 11 of 15

12 Please note that any new structures installed without prior consent will be treated as being unlawful and action will be taken to ensure their removal. If any new structures don t adhere to the BS5709 design specification, action will be taken to ensure their modification to meet this standard (at the landowners/land managers own cost). Replacement gates do not require new consent but they must adhere to the specifications set out below. If they don t, action will be taken to ensure either their removal or modification (at the landowners/land managers own cost). Please see below for details on when stiles need replacing. What s needed a gap, gate or stile? When considering granting consent for either a new or replacement gate or stile, the National Park Authority is legally required (s.69 Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000) to work on the principle of least restrictive access, i.e. to have due regard to the needs of persons with mobility problems. Therefore, when making an assessment the following questions are asked: 1. Is any form of barrier really necessary here, could a gap be left for walkers & riders? 2. If a barrier is required, could it be a gate? After employing this principle, only gates will be authorised on Public Bridleways and Restricted Byways and only in extenuating circumstances will a stile be authorised on a Public Footpath. This principle will also be considered when a stile needs replacing can a gap be left or can it be replaced with a gate instead? Specifications Gates Whether these be hand-gates, bridle-gate or field-gates, they must adhere to the following requirements: All gates on Public Footpaths should swing freely and be opened easily from either side. Gates can be hung to swing freely whilst being self-closing; All gates on Public Bridleways and Restricted Byways should swing freely but must also be openable with one hand from horse-back. Also, the handle to operate any latch should be fitted in such a way that the same hand can operate the catch and then move the gate in one easy movement. If the gate is hung to be self-closing, please ensure that it does so slowly to allow a horse-rider time to get through; Barbed wire should not be attached to either the hanging post or clashing post or at a distance of 2m either side of the gate in order to prevent a horse or person snagging themselves; The minimum width for a hand-gate or kissing-gate on a Public Footpath is 1.0m; The minimum width for a bridle-gate on a Public Bridleway is 1.52m; The minimum width for a field-gate on a Restricted Byway is 3.04m Please see the specifications for a hand-gate and a bridle-gate overleaf. Stiles Gates are always preferable to stiles on Public Footpaths as they allow easier access and can be hung to ensure stock security. However, if circumstances only allow for a stile, then it must adhere to the following requirements: All stiles should have two steps set apart and a hand-post, to allow for easier access; The minimum width for a stile is 1.2m; Where the fence height exceeds 950mm, the step heights can be adjusted to ensure the stile is still easy to use; Please see the specification for a stile on page 15. If you have any queries, please contact your area Senior Ranger: Simon Bassindale (Western area) (01439) ext 2702 or David Smith (Southern area) (01439) ext 2706 or Naomi Green (Northern area) (01439) ext 1013 or Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 12 of 15

13 Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 13 of 15

14 Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 14 of 15

15 North York Moors National Park Authority The Old Vicarage, Bondgate, Helmsley, York, YO62 5BP Tel: Fax: Web: Compiled works guidelines - Walls-hedges-fencing etc.. Page 15 of 15