Bonsai Northwest Inc.

Transcription

1 Bonsai Northwest Inc. Established:1973 A-19332L Newsletter August 2015 Next meeting Monday 3 August 2015 at 7.30pm This month we ll be having a workshop. Our August workshop night is traditionally a repotting night as Spring is just around the corner. If you need help, look for more experienced members to give you advice and a hand. If you are repotting, please ensure to clean up the mess you create. Important note to anyone who will be doing Bjorn s workshop in September, please bring in your workshop trees to the August meeting if you are unsure of the quality of your workshop material. We want you to get the best out of your workshop experience with Bjorn and that means good quality trees to begin with. Also in August, Hanh will be bringing in quality stock for Bjorn s workshop participants to choose from. We have taken the time to visit Hanh s nursery and pick out stock that we believe will provide the best result for the workshop participants. If you need help selecting a tree, we will be available to give you a hand. The Library and Sales table will be open from 7.00pm. Bjorn Bjorholm in September We still have some workshop spots available which are open to everyone in the club at all levels. For the newer members, there will be more experienced people there to give you a hand if needed. If you need good workshop material then we have sourced good stock to work on from Hanh which will be available at the August meeting. We would love to see every member doing a workshop with Bjorn as you can only get better at bonsai by learning from highly experienced bonsai artists. If you can t participate in a workshop then please ensure you come along as an observer. The amount of knowledge you can pick up from observing a master at work is priceless. As an observer you can watch everything that happens and listen to all the knowledge that Bjorn imparts. Don t miss out on this very rare opportunity. As a benchmark we should all strive for, Quentin is signed up as an observer to ALL the workshops. Coming Events Waverley Bonsai Show 8-9 August 2014,10am - 4pm, Mount Waverley Community Centre Cnr Stephensons Rd & Miller Cres. Adults $5. Like us on Facebook If you have a Facebook account, go to our new Facebook site and Like Us. Electronic Newsletter To receive your newsletter electronically bonsainorthwest@hotmail.com Sponsored by: OLOGY Victorian Native Bonsai Club Sale Day Saturday 15 August 2014, 9.30am - 1pm, Harry Atkinson Centre, Lake Grove, Coburg Lake Reserve, Coburg Supplying specialist potting mix components for Bonsai growers. Currently in stock. Mount Sylvia Diatomite, Zeolite, 5-7mm Pine nuggets, Pumice and Sphagnum moss. Our aim is to save you time and money. Ology.net.au - Damian Bonsai Northwest Inc Spring Exhibition 7 & 8 November 2015, Footscray Community Arts Centre It s going to be great!!! Start preparing your trees now to be in the Exhibition. CLUB DETAILS PO Box 1091, Niddrie Victoria 3042 Meetings are held at The Clifton Park Bowling Club, Batman St Essendon, 7:30pm on the first Monday of the month (no meeting in January) President: David Nassar Phone: Barry Find us on Facebook. Twitter: #BonsaiNorthwest

2 Last Month Groups demo A wonderfully informative demonstration on group plantings by Barry, Ted and Michael at our July meeting. It was great to see different stages of groups and great examples of how to put these groups together. Thanks guys for a great demo.

3 Group Settings by Ian Barnes A bonsai planting consisting of more than one trunk can technically be considered a group setting. Within the classification of group settings, there are several types: two-tree settings, three-tree settings, group plantings (more than 3, up to 9, trees), and multiple plantings or forests (more than 9 trees). The general guidelines for the styling of groups are the same as for single tree styles. Treat the trunks as if they are part of the one trunk and the branches as if they all belong to a single tree. We are trying to portray the whole atmosphere and mood of an entire forest or wood, not just the appearance of one small section. The guidelines help to condense and emphasise the main features, to suggest the vastness of a forest. Two-Tree Setting Similar to the Twin-Trunk style, but the trunks are seen to be quite separate trees. Both trees should be the same variety, so that the setting is unified and balanced. Three-Tree Setting Use the same variety of tree for one setting. Trunks: Trees may be planted close together or further apart. The lines of both trunks follow basically in the same direction from base to apex. The trunk of one tree should not cross the other. Heights and thicknesses should be different. The taller tree must be thicker. Branches: If trunks are planted close together, the positioning of branches is the same as for a twin-trunk, ie, no branches at the same level, no branches crossing the front of the other tree, overall silhouette should be a triangle. The first branch on the larger tree that faces towards the smaller tree must not be directly over the smaller tree s apex. The lowest branch should be on the smaller tree. Pot: Shallow- to medium depth, oval or rectangular shape. The 2 trees should not be in line when viewed from the front or side; they should be on a diagonal line in the pot. It doesn t matter which of the 2 trees is closer to the front. Roots: Roots are as important as in single trunk styles. Trunks: The heights of the trees should be different and the thicknesses of the trunks should vary, (tallest being thickest). The tallest or shortest tree should be in the middle, when viewed from the front (a straight gradation from tallest to shortest, from one side to the other, is uninteresting and looks artificial). Branches: Branches should not extend in towards other trees. Treat the trunks as if they the one trunk and the branches as if they all belong to a single tree. The lowest branch should be on the smallest tree. Pot: Shallow- to medium depth, oval or rectangular shape. Group Planting Consists of an odd number of trees, with more than 3, and up to 9, (9 trees seldom used). Odd numbers help to create asymmetry and look more natural. It is better to use the same variety of tree for one setting. (Using 4 trees should be avoided. In Japanese culture, the characters for the number 4 are the same as those for death. From a practical point of view, four trees present a symmetrical composition, and symmetry is to be avoided). Roots: Roots are as important in the Group as in the single trunk styles. Trunks: Direction is important. If slanted, all trees should slant in same direction. If direction is to the right, the largest tree and the greatest number of trees should be planted on the left, while the smallest tree and more space should be on the right. The heights of the trees should be different and the thicknesses of the trunks should vary, (tallest being thickest). Most groups feature a major tree and at least one large secondary tree. When viewed from the front and side, no two trees should be in line. When viewed diagonally, from the corners of the pot, there should not be three or more trees in line. When viewed from the front, the distances between trunks should vary.

4 Branches: Trunks are of primary importance; branches secondary. Branches should not extend in towards other trees. Silhouette of the planting as a whole should be an asymmetrical triangle. Pot: Shallow depth, oval or rectangular shape. Multiple Planting (Forest) Consists of more than 9 trees in the same container. With large numbers of trees (15+), it doesn t matter whether there is an odd or even number (it is impolite to count!). Trunks: Usually consists of many thin-trunked trees clustered together in clumps. Distances between trunks should vary, with no trees in line. Branches: Branches should not extend in towards other trees. Silhouette of the planting as a whole should be an asymmetrical triangle. Pot: Shallow depth, oval or rectangular shape; or flat rock slab (eg, slate). A shallow container emphasises the feeling of space. The pot should be no deeper than twice the width of the thickest trunk to be effective and should be about ⅓ longer than the height of the tallest tree (never same length as tallest tree). Shallow containers are best without prominent feet; a flat foot is better than cloud feet to provide a solid visual anchor. A slab works best when doing a mountainous scene and a pot when doing a lowland forest planting. Creating a Group Setting Prepare all the material ahead of time: trees, container, wire, soil, tools and moss. Select container. The container should be shallow. Use a straight line rectangular shaped container for a planting of formal upright trees. Use an oval container for informal, curved trunk trees. Containers for pines, junipers and other conifers should be unglazed. Use glazed containers of subdued colours for flowering, fruiting and deciduous trees. Plantings for which a natural appearance is emphasised may be on a slab. (A slab has no sides. A dyke made of muck needs to be placed around the outer edge to prevent erosion of soil). Secure mesh over the container drainage holes and provide wiring points. Connect all the drainage holes with loops of wire. Attach tree-tie-down wires to these loops so that there are anchor wires for each tree. Choose a single rhythm or style: formal upright, informal upright, windswept, etc. Assemble tree stock. Use a single species of plant material; using several species may cause problems due to the differing cultivation requirements of each species that is used. Also, if multiple species are used, the viewer s attention tends to be diverted from consideration of the composition as a whole to concentration on segments. Grade tree stock, by trunk diameters. The tallest tree should have the thickest trunk. Every other tree in the group should be shorter and have a proportionately smaller girth. (Note that heights can be trimmed down later). It is a good idea to prepare a larger number of varied trees, tall, short, thick and thin, than is necessary, so that when you are ready to plant you will be able to select those best suited for the purpose. Root prune. It is possible and probably preferable to carry out some styling and root reduction over previous years. Consider the desired outline or silhouette: Trees may be grouped in a single group design which, when viewed from the front, presents a single outline in the form of a scalene triangle.

5 Trees may be grouped into two separate groups. The tallest tree is in the major group. Each group presents its own outline in the form of a scalene triangle. Trees may be grouped into three relatively separate groups; the major group, the secondary group and the minor group. Harmony usually is achieved best if the minor group is between and to the rear of the two larger groups. Determine the view near or distant view. A person close to the edge of a forest has a near view of that forest. The near view is created by planting: a. The tallest and heaviest trees near the foreground for emphasis. b. The medium size trees in the central area. c. The smallest trees in the background to complete the perspective of depth and distance. A person far away from the edge of a forest has a distant view of that forest. The distant view may be created by planting: a. The taller and heavier trees in the central area. b. The smallest trees in both the foreground and in the background. c. The medium size trees between the shortest and the tallest trees. Position trees. Begin with the #1 tree (tallest and thickest). Position this primary or principal tree about ⅓ the length of the pot from one end and either in the foreground or in the centre, front to back, depending on the view. Place the #2 (next tallest) tree adjacent to the principal tree. This is called an annex tree. Place another tree, smaller than the annex, to one side of both the principal and annex. This is called a jumper tree. These 3 trees constitute the basic composition of group planting. Now place the other trees, being careful to position them at varying distances from one another so they will have a natural appearance. Any tree between #1 and #2 should be taller than #2 but shorter than #1. The #3 tree being somewhat younger is naturally shorter than #2. Any tree between #1 and #3 should be shorter than #2 and taller than #3. Trees on the outside of #3 should be shorter than #3. Similarly, trees on the outside of #2 should be shorter than #2. This will always give you that nice triangular silhouette. For instance, place a small tree to the right and behind the principal tree and another in front of the annex. Place a short tree to the left and in front of the jumper tree. Place a tree to the left and behind the jumper. Place another tree to the left behind the principal. And a small tree to the back between the jumper and principal trees.

6 When creating a forest with large numbers of trees, it is usual to group trees into units, each unit having a triangular plan and a triangular outline when viewed from the front. Have most of the larger trunks around the main tree on say, the left, and position them closer together than the other trees near the smaller trunk trees on the right or rear. The units are located to the back and side of the container, and positioned in a circular manner, forcing visual inspection to proceed from left to right and then back to the left again. The front of each tree should face the viewer. If the line of the front trees forms a concave arc, it visually invites the viewer into the scene. Consider the attitude of the trees. The attitude of a tree refers to its degree of verticality; upright, slanting, cascading, etc. In a group setting, the largest and tallest tree usually is vertical while the others lean away from it. Check that no trees are behind others. Use the anchor wires to hold trunks in desired positions. Add soil, carefully placing around the roots. Soil masses are not usually flat and even, but rise and fall within the container to help create the wide landscape effect. Contour the soil so that the largest tree is planted highest. Prune the heights and remove inner branching after the group setting is completed. The branches of one tree should not run into the branches on another tree. Branches which grow into the group should be eliminated. Trees at the front of a near view group should have branches that start higher up the trunk to allow the viewer to be able to glimpse through the planting. Dress soil surface with moss. Position moss in the planting where grass would be able to grow around a group of trees; reflect the lack of light around the base of the trees by leaving bare soil. Water thoroughly. Aftercare for group settings should be the same as for any freshly transplanted bonsai. Group settings need repotting and root pruning at the same intervals as individual bonsai specimens and at the same time of year. However, it is worth leaving the first repotting of a new group for a couple of years so that the rootsystems will have grown enough to become inter-connected. When it is time to repo the arrangement, remove the group setting as a single unit, trim its roots, add new soil and replace it in the same container. Care for group settings is very similar to that of individual bonsai specimens of the same species, though extra care must be made to ensure that all trees within a planting receive sufficient water and fertiliser. Group settings should be turned once a week to ensure that all trees in the group receive enough sunlight.