9. GETTING DOWN TO DESIGN

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1 9. GETTING DOWN TO DESIGN OVERVIEW In this module, we will cover the following topics: Arranging plants Height Information sources Plants for particular problem positions Plants for particular uses Designing for shapes and sizes After you decide the theme Problem sites You should now have a basic understanding of your tools, soil and environment in which you are working. In this module we shall look at: Shapes and design Plant groups (i.e. plants for particular conditions). LANDSCAPING - A NOTE Usually the client will ask you to design a garden within its natural setting. Apart from small changes in levels, your client will not expect you to create or remove hills, or alter natural features. However, sometimes you will be asked if you can alter the contours of a garden, whether to more fully reflect the surrounding area, or create an illusion of another place such as a glen or mountain. If this involves shifting lots of ground and altering the shape of the land, then it is landscaping and not garden design. You will need to refer your clients to a landscaping firm which will have the necessary machinery. Or bring in such a firm as your sub-contractor. Once the landscaping is finished you can then design the garden. Getting down to design Module 9 Page 1

divisions within the garden itself Usually we build up a framework of background plants (shrubs, trees, climbers), and fill in the other areas of planting with lighter, more colourful material which

2 ARRANGING PLANTS How plants are arranged in their beds or sites is as important as the design and construction of the garden. Plants should provide colour and interest all year round, and can also do the following: Act as screens to block bad views or provide privacy Give shelter from prevailing winds Provide shade Make divisions within the garden itself Usually we build up a framework of background plants (shrubs, trees, climbers), and fill in the other areas of planting with lighter, more colourful material which can be varied annually if desired. Place delphiniums near arches and spires The shapes of plants can be chosen to reflect the architecture of nearby buildings. For example, the garden near a building where there are many arches or spires may contain many similarly shaped plants with tall spikes of flowers such as Lupins and Delphiniums or evergreens which are spire shaped such as Conifers etc. HEIGHT Any planting scheme for a bed or border owes its final appearance to the contrasts of shapes, textures and height of the plants as well as the more obvious contrasts of colour. In general, borders are planted with the tallest plants at the back and graded down to the smallest ones at the front. That way, all the plants can be seen from the main viewing point (at the front). Often borders will have the tallest plants at the back For flower beds in lawns, and for those not backed by walls or fencing, the pattern may vary. In a circular bed, the tallest plants may be in the middle, with the rest being graded down to the smallest on the outer edges. For a less formal bed, there may be a mix of heights, giving a haphazard look. As well as the flowering plants, you will need to consider plants for foliage and ground cover. Getting down to design Module 9 Page 2

3 INFORMATION SOURCES You should use plants which appeal to you, or ones that you become familiar with. Most garden centres provide a lot of information about particular plants such as their spread, preferred soil type if any, special needs (e.g. if they need to be protected from frost), and height. You should also refer often to a good plant encyclopaedia to fill in gaps. No one expects you to know the names of all garden plants, their ultimate height, and their colours; but it will surprise you how many you get to know and remember. You can also find lots of information on the internet. EXERCISE 9.1 Type the words plant encyclopaedia into an internet search engine. Record three good sites you find PLANTS FOR PARTICULAR PROBLEM POSITIONS Most plants will grow in most soils, tolerating a wide range of ph and thriving well in sun or partial shade. It is only a few that have a very narrow range of tolerance. Also, it is often only in extreme conditions, for example where the soil is very acidic or alkaline or the aspect unfavourable (total shade, windy, exposed, etc.), that you will have to consider whether plants will thrive. We shall now look briefly at plants for particular situations you are likely to come across, namely in: Alkaline soils Acid soils Shade or sun Getting down to design Module 9 Page 3

PLANTS FOR ALKALINE SOILS Alkaline soils - mostly those in chalky areas - pose a problem for some plants because the high ph causes problems in nutrient absorption.

4 PLANTS FOR ALKALINE SOILS Alkaline soils - mostly those in chalky areas - pose a problem for some plants because the high ph causes problems in nutrient absorption. Put simply, the nutrients become unavailable to the plant because they are locked into compounds the plants cannot absorb. The plants do not flourish, and develop yellow leaves. Combine this with the fact that many alkaline soils are chalky or dry, and you can see the plants could have problems. The alkalinity can be treated with chemicals and special cultural techniques but it is much easier to concentrate on plants which naturally thrive on chalky soils. Shrubs that might be included are: Lavandula (lavender) Buddleia davidii (butterfly bush) Clematis Cotoneaster Syringa (lilac) Border perennials include: Dianthus (carnations, pinks) Helleborus Paeonia (peony) Scabiosa (scabious) Lavendula grows well on a chalky soil PLANTS FOR ACID SOIL Most plants which tolerate a wide range of soil do well on acid soils as they are not such a specific problem as alkaline soils, especially if lime is added regularly to neutralise the acid. There are some, however, which thrive particularly well in acid soils. Most of these do poorly in alkaline soils so the following can be also used as a list of what to avoid on alkaline soils. Shrubs include: Calluna vulgaris (heather) Camellia Azalea Getting down to design Module 9 Page 4

5 Rhododendrons Skimmia Pieris There are not many border perennials strongly preferring acid soils, as most will do well in them. EXERCISE 9.2 Name two plants that might grow well in acid soil, and two that would suit an alkaline soil. Acid: Alkaline: Now check back to see if your answers agree with the text. PLANTS FOR SHADY AREAS Plants that will tolerate shade are extremely useful as they fill in oftendifficult areas to plant and can turn dark corners into attractive areas. So, previously avoided areas are brought into view and use. Border perennials for dry shade include: Bergenia (elephant ears) Euphorbia (spurge) Pulmonaria (lungwort) Those for damp shady areas include: Astilbe hybrids Hostas Dicentra spectabilis (bleeding heart) Getting down to design Module 9 Page 5

Shrubs for dry shade include: Ilex (holly) Mahonia Skimmia Vinca Shrubs for damp shade include: Cammellia Rhododendron Viburnum davidii Plant Hostas in damp shady areas for best results PLANTS FOR

6 Shrubs for dry shade include: Ilex (holly) Mahonia Skimmia Vinca Shrubs for damp shade include: Cammellia Rhododendron Viburnum davidii Plant Hostas in damp shady areas for best results PLANTS FOR SUNNY AND DRY AREAS Most plants love the sun but when combined with a dry soil such as sandy soil there can be problems with excessive water loss. There are plants that are naturally adapted to conditions like this and will thrive in them. These shrubs include: Cistus (rock rose) Cytisus (broom) Senecio Caryopteris x clandonensis (blue spirea) Border perennials that will thrive include: Agapanthus (African lily) Geraniums (cranes bill) Nepeta mussinii (catmint) Verbascum (mullein) Geraniums are fantastic for growing in sunny dry areas Getting down to design Module 9 Page 6

EXERCISE 9.3 Name three plants that would suit a shady garden. 1. 2. 3. Now check back to see if your answers were right.

7 EXERCISE 9.3 Name three plants that would suit a shady garden Now check back to see if your answers were right. PLANTS FOR PARTICULAR USES When designing a garden, you might: Want to draw the eye to a particular point Need to fill in gaps Have been asked to provide a garden that is mainly foliage, scented or has some other criteria. Below are some plants that can be used for particular uses such as: Plants as focal points Ground cover plants Scent Climbers PLANTS FOR FOCAL POINTS Most plants look good in borders, but some are particularly attractive as individual specimens or in a position where they stand out from the other plants. They can be used to draw the eye to a feature, or simply as an ornament in themselves. Many border perennials suit this purpose such as: Plant a Kniphofia to add a focal point to your garden Getting down to design Module 9 Page 7

Acanthus spinosus (bears breeches) Lupins Delphiniums Kniphofia (red hot poker) Grasses also can serve the same purpose, and many look wonderful in a single clump or rising above the surrounding

8 Acanthus spinosus (bears breeches) Lupins Delphiniums Kniphofia (red hot poker) Grasses also can serve the same purpose, and many look wonderful in a single clump or rising above the surrounding vegetation. Species to look for include: Cortaderia selloana (pampas grass) Arundo donax Shrubs and trees make ideal focus point plants or 'punctuation marks' around the garden. Dwarf conifers can look superb in designs, singly or dotted around a larger plot whereas a large Mahonia, Yucca, or Fatsia japonica (false castor oil plant) can draw the eye to less formal areas. You need to remember that trees or shrubs will be more difficult to move, and so they make more permanent focal points. As you develop as a designer you will discover your own particular favourites and add them to your list of suggested plants. PLANTS FOR GROUND COVER If used over a large area, these plants will add texture to the garden floor. They are also used to keep weeds down. Although once established they spread readily, ground cover plants are as vulnerable to competition and poor soil as other plants. SHRUBS Ground hugging shrubs, although often slower growing than perennials will cover thickly and be very hard to discourage once established. They include: Erica carnea (heather) Hedera (Ivy) Hypericum calycinum Juniperus horizontalis (creeping juniper) Thymus serpyllum (creeping thyme) Hedera provides excellent ground cover Getting down to design Module 9 Page 8

BORDER PERENNIALS These include: Bergenia (elephant ears) Hosta Pulmonaria (lungwort) Geranium endressii (cranesbill) Ajuga reptans (bugle) Ground cover plants are often almost dismissed as

9 BORDER PERENNIALS These include: Bergenia (elephant ears) Hosta Pulmonaria (lungwort) Geranium endressii (cranesbill) Ajuga reptans (bugle) Ground cover plants are often almost dismissed as unimportant, but they can be a lifesaver for a designer left with gaps between plants. Some species are particularly useful as temporary cover until the larger permanent plants grow to their full size and cover gaps. PLANTS FOR SCENT Flowers can provide scent, but so can foliage, and for a longer period of the year. The scents of a garden affect its mood and provide another feature. Plants with long lasting scents include: Lavandula (lavender) Lonicera (honeysuckle) Daphne Philadelphus (mock orange) Rosa (rose) Vibernum carlesii Wisteria sinensis Use Lonicera for a pleasant smelling garden Scent may be particularly effective in small town gardens where the smells evoke a sense of the countryside. For clients who cannot see well, scent will be an added bonus. Getting down to design Module 9 Page 9

CLIMBING PLANTS Climbing plants are very useful for covering walls, providing backgrounds to borders or introducing colour to otherwise flower-free areas.

10 CLIMBING PLANTS Climbing plants are very useful for covering walls, providing backgrounds to borders or introducing colour to otherwise flower-free areas. They can be used to brighten trellises and add colourful divisions or screens in a garden. There are many varieties with many colours and they can be heavily scented or virtually scent-free. Varieties with attractive flowers include: Passiflora caerulea (passion flower) Lonicera species (honeysuckles) Jasminum 'revolutu' (yellow jasmine) Bougainvillea (paper flower) Campsis (trumpet creeper) Those grown for foliage include: Hedera helix (ivy) Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia creeper) Parthenocissus tricuspidata (Boston creeper) Bougainvillea is a popular climbing plant EXERCISE 9.4 Name three scented plants Now compare your answer with the text. DESIGNING FOR SHAPES AND SIZES The hardscape of any garden (the paths, beds and structures) acts like the framework, and gives the garden its structure. In contrast, the plants give it shape and character. Getting down to design Module 9 Page 10

11 Planting is a continuous process because plants are growing, dying, withering, or becoming too large or straggly. But in general the hardscape lasts much longer. The first step in designing any garden is its theme. Is its theme to be based on: Hard lines Rounded lines Irregular lines Or a mix of the three? A very different look can be created for the same garden by using different themes (See diagram 9.1). The client s garden may have an easy regular shape or it may be a corner plot, L-shaped or long and narrow. There may be a slope (up or down), or other factors which will influence your design. AFTER YOUR VISIT Once you have visited your client's garden and come away with your questionnaire and sketch, do the following: Look through some books for ideas. Think about any features you have seen in other gardens which would work in this one. With experience, think about any designs you have used in other clients' gardens which would work well in this one. Then experiment with sketches, trying different features and moving them around. If you do not want to keep making sketches, use a piece of plastic such as the sort used for overhead projectors. If you place it over your original sketch it can be useful, as ideas can be drawn and erased easily without touching the original sketch. You can also use photocopies of the original sketch if that is easier for you. Getting down to design Module 9 Page 11

12 AFTER YOU DECIDE THE THEME Once you have decided on your theme and tried out various ideas until you like the look, transfer the ideas on to graph paper. Then trace the plan on tracing paper, and photocopy it. Complete the plan with details such as planting plans, and ideas for paving (if any). You may be able to lay out various features on your client's garden using a hose pipe or string, but sometimes this is not possible. After a while you will get to know what works and what does not. DIAGRAM 9.1: THREE DIFFERENT DESIGN THEMES FOR THE SAME GARDEN Note how each garden has the same features, but each provides a different theme. Curved Theme B 20 ft A C D F E 50 ft Diagonal Theme B 20 ft B E F C A D E F 50 ft Getting down to design Module 9 Page 12

13 Rectangular Theme B 20 ft C B A E F 50 ft Key A = Lawn B = Flower beds C = Pond D = Wall E = Paved area F = Tubs THE ROUTE FROM DRAWING A SKETCH TO CREATING A DESIGN The route from sketching to design is very unclear. You might develop the knack of seeing a garden and immediately visualising the final design you have in mind. But more usually the route will be to: 1. Visit the garden, get the answers to your questionnaire, and make your sketches. 2. Note any strong interests the owner has, or any particular features they want to keep. 3. Decide the theme of the garden. This could be: Formal or informal Dominated by hardscape or plants Getting down to design Module 9 Page 13

14 Foliage dominant or texture/flowers Straight edges or curvy lines Perhaps your client wants a particular theme such as Latin, Cottage, or Seaside garden? 4. Look for inspiration in books. Do not copy other designs exactly: they will not work for every garden. 5. Sketch several ideas to explore possibilities. Once you have decided on your final idea, stick to it. 6. Incorporate as many of your original ideas as possible (these will come with time). PROBLEM SITES Finally, here are some different kinds of sites you may come across and ideas for them. DOWNWARD SLOPING SITE This site can be easy to design for as there is often already a panoramic view from the house. Problems begin when the view is unattractive. The view will determine whether you make your sitting point at the top or the lowest point of the garden. If possible, keep the natural slope for as much of the garden as possible. Terracing Terracing is a method of cutting a slope into a series of levels, one above another. This provides areas to walk and easy downward access, but however it is done it is expensive. With a downward sloping site you ll probably have to incorporate some terracing, but retaining some natural slope also provides an opportunity for rockeries or steps. To add character and interest you can use different materials for the retaining walls such as railway sleepers, coloured stones etc. and the walls themselves can be planted with different creepers and climbers. Getting down to design Module 9 Page 14

15 UPWARD SLOPING SITE This presents more problems, because the slope will often limit the depth of view. Terracing is often necessary at least in some parts, with retaining walls. Again, different materials for retaining walls such as railway sleepers, rough-cut logs, bricks or concrete blocks can make for very different looks. A meandering path built on retaining walls and flanked by shrubs can be an ideal way to climb or descend any slope. Walls are expensive to build even at home and enough rock must be locally available to your client. Grass is impractical for steep slopes because mowers cannot cope. So use grass alternatives that require only light cutting with shears now and again (such as chamomile and thyme). You can also plant the banks with small shrubs such as cistus and broom. As long as they will tolerate the occasional dryness of a bank, many plants will thrive there such as helichrysum, artemisia and santolina. Remember to use focal points to give a path a sense of purpose. LONG AND NARROW The long and narrow site common in many town gardens or terraces offers an opportunity for imaginative design. You may wish to divide the garden into areas or 'rooms' with different themes. Many owners of long narrow sites make it look worse with long flower beds at the edges and lawns either side of a central straight path. Breaking the site up into rooms with the use of screens, screen blocks or hedging makes it impossible to take the garden in all at once, creating the illusion of intimacy rather than length. The number of divisions depends on the length available. The use of curves in a garden of this shape will also help break up the narrow lines. Getting down to design Module 9 Page 15

16 THE L-SHAPED SITE This is difficult to design for. You have to decide whether you will turn each arm of the 'L' into a different 'room', or have them as a continuous theme. You need a strong feature at the angle where the L turns so that there is a reason to be drawn to that part of the garden and into the second part of the L. A pergola or summer house is a good feature here, or if it is a large plot the seating area could be sited here so that you can see both parts. The flower beds can be continuous, or can change shape at the angle to create a different 'room' for the second half of the L. CORNER SITES Corner sites can be difficult to design for and often have a very open feel which you either like or do not. Often a lawn is used to sweep the eye round the corner but you can create a different effect by using a design that integrates both sides. SHORT AND SQUARE GARDEN With a short and square garden you should include several features to create interest, but not too many, don t cram them in. The simple use of a low hedge creates a formal patio area. A trellis not only shields the shed but gives a useful storage area. Stepping stones branching off in different directions provide interest and an illusion of space. Shrub foliage should be varied. CONCLUSION You have now completed Module 9, and we have covered different situations you are likely to be faced with. While we can t cover every possibility, we have covered the common ones and given you ideas from which to proceed. We have also discussed shapes and the problems that come with them. There are many variations on the basic shapes, and for each shape the size of the garden can alter the design aspect enormously. But with experience you will get to know your own tricks with each shape and size. Getting down to design Module 9 Page 16

17 NOW WATCH A VIDEO How to layout a garden SUMMARY 1. You know how to arrange plants in your designs. 2. You understand how plant height can affect your design. 3. You know about planting for borders and beds. 4. You are able to use certain plants for particular problem areas of the garden. 5. You know of plants that can be used for particular purposes. 6. You are able to design for gardens that vary in size and shape. 7. You know about problem sites found in the garden. Getting down to design Module 9 Page 17

18 TODAY S TASK See diagram 9.2 on the following page. 1. Look at the current design. Is it good? Identify any problems, and see whether it suits the family. 2. Using the information below, make a checklist that covers the points you would want to raise with the family. Add any other questions you might want to ask. WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNT ABOUT THE MAYHEWS Both Roger and Alison Mayhew are 40. Roger works in town from 8am to 5pm. Alison works from home. She writes for magazines. They have one son, William, aged nine years, and two daschunds. Both the Mayhews would like lots of climbing plants in the garden if possible, and they would like a pond or water feature. Alison likes fruit. Roger likes gardening when he has the time; but Alison hates it. Both dislike rockeries. Both would like a seating area for relaxing and entertaining. They would like their garden to complement their 1920s mock-tudor style house. They want their garden to be somewhere to relax, and for their son to take his friends when they come round, and the garden must look good. They would like to hide the ugly wall at the bottom of the garden. This is old brick and not pretty, but belongs to the neighbours, who won t replace it. Their budget for a re-design is 1,200, and the time scale is five to six months. Getting down to design Module 9 Page 18

19 DIAGRAM 9.2 THE MAYHEWS GARDEN N 10m 11m Flower bed 5m 3.5m Flower bed 3m 4m 6m Flower bed 2m Patio doors Window Getting down to design Module 9 Page 19

DESIGNING YOUR GARDEN

DESIGNING YOUR GARDEN A well designed garden, tailored to your own particular needs, will not only be beautiful and productive, but will give you and your family pleasure throughout the year. You don't