Monthly Newsletter. October 2015

Transcription

1 L A K E A R E A Monthly Newsletter October 2015 Volume 9, Issue Club Officers Tamara Jorstad, President Phone: tjorstad@gmail.com Debbie Laemmli, Vice President Phone: dlaemmli@gmail.com JoAnne Gitchell, Secretary Phone: jogi65634@gmail.com Roni Vollmer, Treasurer Phone: ronivollmer@hotmail.com Past President Jan Mitzel Phone: jmitzel@yhti.net Standing Committee Chairs 2015 Garden Walk Gail Conavay, theconavays@gmail.com Club Photographer Glenda Hinrichs, glenda_hinrichs@yahoo.com Historian Sally Burke, burke.lakelovers@gmail.com Hospitality Rita Burks, ritab001@hotmail.com Membership Tamara Jorstad, Year Book tjorstad@gmail.com MU EXT & MOMA Winnie McKinley, mckinleyw@hotmail.com Newsletter Charli Allee, normcharli@aol.com Projects Jeannie Robbins, jrobbins2081@sbcglobal.net Publicity Ways & Means Charmaine E. Guyot guyotcharmaine@gmail.com Mildred Webster or Miller County Extension P O Box 20 Tuscumbia, MO Phone/Fax Heads Up! A lot of reports are coming in around the Midwest of people being bitten by the oak leaf itch mite. Bites are similar to chigger bites but are typically on the head, arms and upper body, rather than legs and lower body where chigger bites are more common. These nearly microscopic mites prey on midge larvae that form marginal fold galls on oak leaves. In late summer, as midge larvae exit the galls and drop to the soil for overwintering, mites also drop from the leaves in huge unseen mite showers. People who spend time under oak trees (especially pin oaks) are being bitten, but mites can also be carried long distances on the wind and can be blown through screens on open windows. Here is a good fact sheet: In the past, we have had many reports in mid- to late summer as mites are dropping from trees. And then a second surge of reports in October- November after leaf drop, when folks are raking leaves and presumably stirring up mites again. They can continue to be a problem until we get colder weather. Benadryl and calamine lotions are recommended to help relieve itching. Reports so far have come in primarily from southwest Missouri, eastern Kansas and Oklahoma. But other areas may experience these as well. I would appreciate hearing from you if you are getting reports from other areas. There are several media reports online about them especially from Kansas. The oak leaf itch mite was first recognized in the Midwest when it occurred at outbreak levels in It has been mostly absent since then until reappearing in Kansas last year. My hypothesis is that the severe freeze of April 2007 that resulted in widespread kill of foliage that had flushed early that year, either directly killed itch mites or killed one of their primary prey, the marginal fold gall midge. That gall has been difficult to find in recent years, but may be increasing again. Itch mites will feed on other insects, especially those that are in sheltered locations. There have been reports in past years that they prey on cicada eggs inserted into tree twigs. Areas where periodical cicadas emerged earlier this year may be at risk of larger itch mite populations. However we are getting many reports of itch mites in SW Missouri where periodical cicadas did not emerge. Rob Lawrence, Forest Entomologist, Missouri Department of Conservation 3500 East Gans Road, Columbia, MO Ph ext 3946 Rob.Lawrence@mdc.mo.gov

2 PAGE 2 LAKE AREA MASTER GARDERN S LEWS LETTER October Gardening Tips * Plant spring flowering bulbs. * Cut down stems and foliage of herbaceous perennials after two or three hard frosts and when leaves begin to brown. * Dig and bring in cannas, dahlias and gladiolus. Dry, clean and store in a cool location free from frost. * After several hard frosts add mulch to your perennial flower garden. A one inch layer of straw or chopped leaves will help conserve soil moisture and protect the root system. * When deciding on new trees or shrubs to plant around your home, remember to select varieties that will fit the location when they are at their mature height. This will greatly reduce pruning and other maintenance in the future. * Pick bagworms from evergreen shrubs. This will eliminate the spring hatch from over-wintered eggs. * Remove leaves from lawn to reduce lawn problems. Compost or shred and use them for mulch. * Fall is the time to control certain broadleaf weeds in the lawn, such as white clover, dandelion and ground ivy. * Make a note of any particular productive or unsatisfactory varieties of vegetables that you planted this year. Such information can be very useful when planning next years' garden. * Remove any diseased or insect-infested plant material from your garden, it may harbor over-wintering stages of disease or insect pests. If you leave this plant material in your garden, you are leaving diseases and insects which will begin to reproduce again next spring and add to next years' pest problem. * Cure pumpkins, butternut and hubbard squash at temperatures between degrees Fahrenheit for two or three weeks immediately after harvest. After curing, store them in a dry place at degrees Fahrenheit. * Use dried herbs to make fragrant wreaths and dried flower arrangements. * Clean up the orchard and small fruit plantings. Sanitation is essential for good maintenance. Dried fruits or mummies carry disease organisms through the winter to attack next years' crop. * Nut trees are a fine addition to the home landscape. They may accent the house, provide shade in the summer and even become a food source. * Christmas cactus need special care now to get its beautiful flowers this December. Buds will form at degrees Fahrenheit or if the plant is exposed to at least 13 hours of complete darkness each night. * Fall is an excellent time for taking soil samples in your lawn and garden. Soil tests will measure the ph of the soil, organic matter content and the levels of some of the major elements required for plant growth, such as phosphorus and potassium. Call Miller County Extension Office for Details at: or Call Camden County Extension Office for Details at:

3 LAKE AREA MASTER GARDERN S LEWS LETTER MU Soil Testing and Plant Diagnostic Services PAGE 3 Soil and Plant Testing Laboratory 23 Mumford Hall The laboratory analyzes soil for nutrient content and fertility status and provides recommendations for economical, environmentally safe, and balanced fertilizer and lime applications to farmers, home owners, vegetable and fruit growers, golf course superintendents, and lawn and landscape specialists. Special soil tests for nutrient management plans and for addressing environmental issues are also provided. The lab also analyzes potting mixes for nursery growers. Plant tissue analysis can be requested for field crops, ornamentals, vegetables, fruits and turfs. Other services include: Compost testing Manure analysis Water testing for domestic, irrigation, poultry and livestock suitability Soil Testing for Lawns Manjula Nathan and Brad Fresenburg Soil testing provides an estimate of the plant-available nutrients in the soil and is an essential tool for a sound fertilization program. Periodic soil testing will help to correct nutrient deficiencies, avoid excess fertilizer applications and maintain a healthy lawn. A routine soil fertility test (ph, neutralizable acidity, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, organic matter, and cation exchange capacity) is recommended under the following circumstances: Before establishing a new lawn, whether from seed, sod, or sprigs. Every three years on established lawns (late summer). Annually when attempting to correct a nutrient deficiency or change the soil ph. When fertilizers containing phosphate or potash have been used on a regular basis for a number of years Taking a soil sample Your local MU Extension center has soil sample boxes available for use at no charge. One box (1.5 to 2 cups) is all the University lab needs for analyses. Using a small shovel or soil probe, sample to a 4-inch depth on established lawns or, before seeding, to a 6-inch depth. Take 12 or more random cores from each area of the lawn to be tested and remove the thatch and live plant material before breaking up the cores and mixing thoroughly in a dry plastic bucket. (Metal buckets contaminate the sample with micronutrients.) Take random samples from the lawn as a whole unless there is a need to sample problem areas separately (Figure 1). Air dry the sample overnight before sending. Obtain a MP555, Soil Sample Information Form (PDF) from your local MU Extension center or on the Web. Send the sample to the Soil and Plant Testing Laboratory, at either of the following addresses: 23 Mumford Hall Columbia, MO or the Delta Research Center P.O. Box 160 Portageville, MO Plant Diagnostic Clinic 28 Mumford Hall The laboratory examines plant and invertebrate samples for identification and or plant disease diagnosis. Recommendations are provided for management strategies.

4 PAGE 4 LAKE AREA MASTER GARDERN S LEWS LETTER Why should spring get all the glory? Learn the gardening basics of fall planting and find out why this is a prime season for gardening. By Sally Roth While you might not think of fall as a time to get outside and plant new perennials, it actually presents a golden opportunity to do just that. Not only is it bargain time for many perennials at the garden store, the growing conditions are perfect for establishing roots. Start Planning In autumn the garden s peak is fresh in your mind, so it s easy to remember where you need to add some pizzazz. Remember that dead spot you noticed in midsummer? How about the garden bed that needs a splash of yellow or blue? Now is the time to address those areas. Time It Right In Zones 6 and 7, the cool-down period starts around the end of September, about six weeks before the first fall frost. This is the ideal time to start your fall plants. In Zones 3 to 5, you ll want to plant earlier if you can. And of course, Zones 8 to 11 can pretty much plant year-round without a problem. (Lucky!) Still, you want to get an early start to give roots time to get established. Gardening Basics to Picking Up a Bargain At the end of the season, you can find big discounts on plants that have passed their peak. Most sellers knock down prices fast when their perennials go out of bloom, and lower them even more when the plants start looking down and out. Expect to find perennials at 50 percent or even 75 percent off. Keep in mind that the longer you wait for deals, the smaller the selection and the less time you have to get plants established. Save It from Death Row You know that section in the bargain area that s super cheap, and it s not hard to tell why? I call it death row, and it s actually where I head first in hopes of finding a steal. The plants often look pitiful or even near death, but some are still worth a shot. If it s wilted, generally sad looking or has yellowing or dying foliage, but the right price, grab it as long as there s still some green and it s not diseased. Don t Fret about Frost Frost might seem like your biggest fall planting challenge, but it s actually not a huge problem. Yes, frost will kill the tops of your new plants, but it won t affect the root growth. The roots will grow until the soil freezes solid, which is often weeks or even months after the first frost hits. In temperate regions everywhere but the far North and the high mountains soil usually doesn t freeze until after Thanksgiving. Grow the Roots In spring the soil is cold, so the roots of newly planted perennials grow slowly. In fall the soil is warm, so roots grow faster. Since the plants don t produce flowers, they have more energy for sending vigorous roots into the soil of their new home. Do your part by planting new perennials in good soil and watering thoroughly. By the time the growing season rolls around again, they ll be happily settled. Give Em a Fighting Chance Once you get your bargain plants home, the first order of business is to give them a thorough drink. Set them in a tray or saucer to catch the water that pours through the potting mix, and let them take their time soaking it up. Then proceed as if they were the healthiest plants in the world. Lower temperatures and shorter days mean plants need less water, but if rain is scarce, water them weekly until the soil freezes. Remember that, under the ground, those roots are still growing. Put Them to Bed Wait until the soil freezes hard, then spread a few inches of mulch around your perennials not to prevent soil from freezing, but to keep it from thawing. Roots that aren t solidly anchored can frost heave out of the soil when the ground freezes and thaws, putting the plant in danger of getting killed by cold. Once mulch is on, you re all set. Even if a few of your new perennials don t make it, you re probably still coming out ahead. Fall planting gives you a big jump on spring gardening, so you have more time in the busy season. Aster Astilbe Balloonflower Bearded iris Bee balm Bergenia Bleeding heart Brunnera Perennials To Plant in the Fall Campanula Catmint Columbine Daylilies Dianthus Echinacea Ferns Goldenrod Hardy geraniums Hosta Lady s mantle Lamb s ear Lilies Monkshood Native asters Oriental poppies Penstemon Peonies Perennial sunflowers Phlox Sea holly Sedums Siberian iris

5 LAKE AREA MASTER GARDERN S LEWS LETTER Pruning First Step in Controlling Fall Webworms A sign that fall has arrived is the sudden appearance of bugfilled webbing on outer tree branches. Some of these tents can become large, loaded with hundreds of caterpillars. The fall webworm (also known as a tent caterpillar) is a serious pest of many species of forest, shade, fruit, and ornamental trees (except conifers) found throughout Missouri. "Trees may be heavily or completely defoliated by tent caterpillars and persistent infestations on individual trees may kill branches and top growth," said Patrick Byers, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. Favorite trees for the tent caterpillars include walnut, hickory, persimmon and wild cherry. Although unsightly, damage from the fall webworm is most often inconsequential since trees soon will be losing their leaves anyway. Beginning in the spring and throughout the early summer, adult tent caterpillars emerge from the ground litter or just below the soil surface where they overwintered as pupae in silken cocoons. Full-grown caterpillars are about an inch long. They are generally light colored and covered with tiny bumps from which arise tufts of long, light-colored hairs. The head is either orange-red or black. Eggs are laid in hair-covered masses, each consisting of several hundred eggs, on the undersides of leaves. Newly hatched larvae immediately begin to spin webbing over the foliage they are feeding upon. As the larvae grow, they enlarge the web nest to enclose more foliage. Larvae from the same egg mass generally stay together in the nest until the last larval instar (stage). They then leave the nest and feed individually prior to pupating. "At the end of each generation the webbed nests can be quite large and contain excrement, dried leaf fragments and shed skins of the larvae," said Byers. During high population densities, small to moderate-sized trees may be completely covered with webbing. It also has been reported that the caterpillars may migrate from one tree to another. "To control webworms you need to prune them out and destroy small webs," said Byers. "You can also use a labeled insecticide to protect valuable trees." PAGE 5

6 PAGE 6 LAKE AREA MASTER GARDERN S LEWS LETTER Lake Area Master Gardeners Minutes September 8th, 2015 The Lake Area Master Gardener executive board (the Board) meets each month prior to the regularly scheduled club meeting to review the upcoming agenda and coordinate club activities. The executive board is comprised of the President, the Vice President, Secretary, Treasurer, and the immediate Past President. Any club member may attend the board meetings. The board met September 8, 2015 prior to the meeting. The agenda included discussion of recruitment for President, Vice President, and Secretary for next year, a potential garden for the Garden Walk next year with a possible problem of injury or damage due to closeness of golf course, and the second scholarship recipient application available for review. The recipient is already at college and unable to attend a LAMG meeting. Tamara will try to follow up with the recipient. The next board meeting will be October 9, 2015 at 10AM at Tupelo Honey restaurant in Greenview. The Lake Area Master Gardeners met at Willmore Lodge in Lake Ozark. Twenty two members were present and answered the question What plants are you planning to overwinter indoors that are outdoors now? Barbara Fredholm, a Lake of the Ozarks Master Naturalist, Lake of the Ozarks Watershed Alliance volunteer and developer of the Kayak Meet up at HaHaTonka State Park presented a program Ideas for using Herbs such as growing, drying and using for recipes, along with an identification quiz of herbs she brought for the club to see. Jennee Hunter identified 13 of the 14 herbs she brought. A door prize of a cooling towel was won by Jennee Hunter and Jan Mitzel. Tamara Jorstad, president, called the meeting to order. The minutes for August were printed in the monthly newsletter. Mickey McDuffey made a motion to approve the minutes. Kathy Fayant seconded the motion and it passed. The treasurer s report was given by Roni Vollmer. There was a beginning balance of $ 9, with no expenses and income of $ 30 from glove sales. The ending balance was $ 9, Jeannie Robbins made a motion to approve the treasurer s report. Ginnie Boyle seconded the motion and it passed. Committee reports were given: Willmore Lodge: Kathy Fayant has scheduled workdays for Willmore Lodge for September 21 at 3PM and September 23 at 10AM. Garden Walk: Gail Conavay and Suzanne Albright gave an update on the six gardens for next year. The one garden will not be used due to the closeness of the golf course to the garden. The gardens are on Highway KK next year in Osage Beach. Ways and Means: Mildred Webster reported gloves are available for purchase. The club received $0.25 due to failure to wear name tag at a meeting last month. Historian/Scrapbook: Sally Burke reported needs copies or s with old club photos. She is keeping up with current information. LAMG Class: Winnie McKinnley reported the brochure for the new class is done and will be distributed at the Osage Beach Fall Festival Booth on September 12. MOMGA: Winnie reported the next meeting is at the state MG conference in Columbia on September 13. New officers will be elected. Hospitality: Rita Burks thanked Joan Eads and Sally Burke for the refreshments. September Birthdays celebrated were Debbie Laemmli and Nancy Hall. Old Business: Report hours on line at This is the only way hours can be counted. Notify Tricia Barrett at Miller County Ext office if you need help with the program or wish her to enter hours. Library books are available. Please Tamara if you want to sign one out and she will bring it to the meeting. Members are encouraged to bring garden related books/items to the meetings for trade among members. All items not taken at the end of the meeting must be taken back by the person who brought them.

7 PAGE 7 LAKE AREA MASTER GARDERN S LEWS LETTER New Business: Speakers and programs for the new year are being finalized. Please let Tamara or Debbie know if anyone has any requests or ideas. Lake of the Ozarks Watershed Alliance is having a Native Plant Sale. Orders are due by September 13 and pick up is September 29 at the fire station in Sunrise Beach. Some plants will be available for purchase on September 29. An with details was sent out earlier to active Master Gardeners. Officer elections for 2016 will be done in November. Candidates are needed for President, Vice President, and Secretary. The candidates are needed by October to be voted on in November. Anyone interested in these offices should contact any board member. If there are no candidates next month, a discussion will be held as to what the club wants to do for next year. Announcements: The October Meeting is at Jan Mitzel s home with a program on glass garden art. The club is paying the fee for any member who comes to the program. The presenter is bringing all necessary materials to make the garden art, but members may bring anything of their own they wish to use. Maps to Jan s house were handed out. Directions will be sent by later. Gayle Conavay announced she had 2 tickets for Lake Bloomers Garden Club bus tour of Powell Gardens in Kingsville, Mo for October 2 if anyone is interested in going. Volunteer Opportunities: Osage Beach Fall Festival Booth: September 12 Phyllis Mossman will be doing the booth along with Winnie. Plants will be given away every hour. Anyone with plants may bring them to the Osage Beach City Park on September 12 or make arrangements with Winnie McKinley to pick them up sometime on September 10. Willmore Lodge Work Day: September 21 and September 23. Hours to report: Education: 1 hour Meeting: _1 hour Jo Anne Gitchell, Secretary It s Time to Turn in Your 2015 Volunteer Hours! If you submitted hours in the past, then you only need to use the same username and password to sign in to this new system. Your records are all still there. Missouri Master Gardeners must have an account in order to use this system. To create an account, fill out the on line Registration Form. Once you've created an account, you can log in to the system and start recording your hours. MU Extension Staff involved in the Master Gardener program can also create an account to monitor active MG progress and make reports as needed. To set up an account, fill out an Admin Registration Request form. You will be ed instructions about what to do next. If you have an account, you can log in by clicking the Log In menu item above. The Missouri Master Gardener On Line Service Reporting System is a program administered by the Office of the State Coordinator of the University of Missouri Extension Master Gardener Program. This office is wholly responsible for the content and development of this site solely for the purpose of the maintenance of accurate Master Gardener Volunteer Service Hour Records in accordance with the policies of the Master Gardener Program and the University of Missouri Extension.

8 PAGE 8 Planting Selecting a Site LAKE AREA MASTER GARDERN S LEWS LETTER Pick a site with full sun (to light shade) and lots of space for sprawling vines. Vine varieties need 50 to 100 square feet per hill. However, if your garden space is limited, no worries! Plant pumpkins at the edge of the garden and direct vine growth across the lawn or sidewalk. The vines will only be bothersome for a few weeks. You can also grow pumpkins in big 5 to 10 gallon buckets! Or, try miniature varieties. Pumpkins are big greedy feeders. They prefer very rich soil that is well-drained and not too soggy. Mix lots of compost and aged mature into the planting site before you sow seeds or transplant. Pumpkins do best when the seeds are directly planted in the ground. Since your growing season is very short, seed indoors in peat pots about 2 to 4 weeks before last spring frost. Be sure to harden off before transplanting. Wait until the plant soil is 70ºF or more before sowing seeds. Optimum soil temperature is 95ºF. Pumpkins are very sensitive to the cold. Plant seeds in rows or "pumpkin hills" which are the size of small pitcher mounds. With hills, the soil will warm more quickly and the seeds will germinate faster. This also helps with drainage and pest control. Prepare the hills in advance with an abundance of old manure dug deep into the ground (12 to 15 inches). If you don't have manure, loosen the soil and mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost Plant the seeds 1 inch deep into the hills (4 to 5 seeds per hill). Space hills 4 to 8 feet apart. Your plants should germinate in less than a week with the right soil temperature (70 degrees F) and emerge in 5 to 10 days. When the plants are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin to 2 to 3 plants per hill by snipping off unwanted plants without disturbing the roots of the remaining ones. In rows, sow seeds 6 to 12 inches apart in rows 6 to 10 feet apart. Snip off plants to thin to one plant every 18 to 36 inches. Care Pumpkins! Pumpkins! Pumpkins! Pumpkins! Use row covers to protect plants early in the season and to prevent insect problems. However, remember to remove covers before flowering to allow pollination by insects! Pumpkins are very thirsty plants and need lots of water. Water one inch per week. Water deeply, especially during fruit set. When watering: Try to keep foliage and fruit dry unless it s a sunny day. Dampness will make rot more likely. Add mulch around your pumpkins to keep in moisture, suppress weeks, and discourage pests. Remember that pumpkins are tender from planting to harvest. Control weeds with mulch. Do not over cultivate, or their very shallow roots may be damaged. Most small vine varieties can be trained up a trellis. Larger varieties can be trained upward on a trellis, too though it is an engineering challenge to support the fruit usually with netting or old stockings. If your first flowers aren't forming fruits, that's normal. Both male and female blossoms need to open. Be patient. Bees are essential for pollination, so be mindful when using insecticides to kill pests. If you must use, apply only in late afternoon or early evening when blossoms are closed for the day. Pumpkin vines, though obstinate, are very delicate. Take care not to damage vines, which reduces the quality of fruit. the joints to avoid breakage.

9 PAGE 9 LAKE AREA MASTER GARDERN S LEWS LETTER Pumpkins are HEAVY feeders. Regular treatments of manure or compost mixed with water will sustain good growth. Fertilize on a regular basis. Use a high nitrogen formula in early plant growth. Fertilize when plants are about one foot tall, just before vines begin to run. Switch over to a fertilizer high in phosphorous just before the blooming period. Pinch off the fuzzy ends of each vine after a few pumpkins have formed. This will stop vine growth so that the plant's energies are focused on the fruit. Pruning the vines may help with space as well as allow the plant's energy to be concentrated on the remaining vines and fruit. Gardeners who are looking for a "prize for size" pumpkin might select the two or three prime candidates and remove all other fruit and vines. As the fruit develops, they should be turned (with great care not to hurt the vine or stem) to encourage an even shape. Slip a thin board or a piece of plastic mesh under the pumpkins. Harvest/Storage Your best bet is to harvest pumpkins when they are mature. They will keep best this way. Do not pick pumpkins off the vine because they have reached your desired size. If you want small pumpkins, buy a small variety. A pumpkin is ripening when its skin turns a deep, solid color (orange for most varieties). When you thumb the pumpkin, the rind will feel hard and it will sound hollow. Press your nail into the pumpkin's skin; if it resists puncture, it is ripe. To harvest the pumpkin, cut the fruit off the vine carefully with a sharp knife or pruners; do not tear. Be sure not to cut too close to the pumpkin; a liberal amount of stem (3 to 4 inches) will increase the pumpkin's keeping time. Handle pumpkins very gently or they may bruise. Pumpkins should be cured in the sun for about a week to toughen the skin and then stored in a cool, dry bedroom or cellar anywhere around 55ºF. If you get a lot of vines and flowers but no pumpkins, you need more bees in your garden to pollinate the flowers. Grow some colorful flowers next to your pumpkin patch this year and you may get more bees and butterflies! If you're saving seeds, they should last for 6 years. Hello and Happy October! Fall is my favorite time of the year and I hope you are all enjoying the fruits of our gardens as the weather cools. Thank you goes to all who attended the September meeting at Willmore Lodge. Barbara Fredholm did a wonderful job of presenting fresh, lush herbs for us to identify and discuss. I thoroughly enjoyed it and had great feedback from many club members in attendance. We have had another great LAMG year and as we come to a close. I am please to announce that we have candidates for two of our three open offices for Please be sure to come to our October meeting at Jan and Dan Mitzel's, home on the 13th. You may vote for and/or confirm Officer assignments and, we have a hands-on class planned. Debbie Cook (a Lake Bloomers member) will be demonstrating glass artwork for the garden. Se will bring the materials and the club will pay for the $10/per person fee. If you have glassware of your own to use, please bring that and the club will not need to pay a fee for anyone that brings their own materials. Directions for the meeting were handed out at the last meeting, but if you missed it I will be meeting Debbie Cook at the new Woods Supermarket parking lot (park by the wall) around 5:115 PM so that she may follow me to Jan s. You are welcome to meet us there as well. Send me an and let me know if you need me to wait for you, so we are sure to not leave someone behind. We just have one (November) meeting left after this one and it will be the annual celebration/graduation of new LAMG members. I hope to see you all there for a fun time. If you like, new photos for the next yearbook will be taken at the meeting. Keep on gardening, Tamara

10 L A K E A R E A UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI EXTENSION Lake Area Master Gardener Club P O Box 20/ Courthouse Annex Tuscumbia, MO Our Mission: Helping Others Learn to Grow and To Have Fun Along the Way! Lake Area Master Gardener Meeting Date: Tuesday, October 13th, 2015 Time: 6:30 PM Location: Jan Mitzel s Home Program: Glass Garden Art, Debra Cook, Lake Bloomers October Birthdays! October 1st October 7th October 19th Julie Andrews Simon Cowell Chuck Berry To help new and returning members remember LAMG Club Member Names Starting 2015 a twenty-five cent fee will be charge to an member failing to wear his/her LAMG/Maser Gardener name badge at the monthly meetings. Fines are to be collected by the Ways and Means Chair, Mildred Webster, and funds added to the club s income. Items for the monthly newsletter are due to the Newsletter Chair, Charli Allee, by the 26th of each month Send to normcharli@aol.com